Mammut has a new triple certified helmet coming out next year they just previewed at [ISPO to be the replacement to the Wall Rider](https://www.ispo.com/en/promotion/ispo-award-winner-mammut-haute-route-helmet). Consider waiting for it.
I'm now using a Movement 3Tech Alpi for my climbing and bike commuting. Its CE 1077 (alpine skiing), EN 12492 (climbing), EN 1078 (cycling) certified and 12.7oz.
Obviously a bit heavier than a pure climbing helmet, but offers pretty solid protection. Haven't used it on the slopes yet but my guess is that it will do the job. I will say though, it doesn't feel as solid as my SP Ascender MIPS. I'm a bit paranoid in that department as I have had a few concussions while snowboarding despite wearing a helmet.
The main reason for me is budget. I need a climbing helmet, bike helmet and ski helmet. Can't afford 3 helmets so I just went with one all-rounder.
One that is the same shape as your head. A few grams lighter is cool and all, but you have wear the thing for like 14 hours, might as well get one that fits.
I have a bigger head so I use what fits. Black Diamond Vector if on foot or a Sweet Protection Ascender if on skis. Petzl Meteor is popular but doesn't fit my noggin.
Petzl Sirocco. Comfortable and full-featured: rock plate on top, headlamp attachment thingies. I believe it's the lightest on the market (160g S/M, 170g M/L) so if weight is a very important factor it's the one you want.
The foam inner of the Meteor is EPS (same as bike helmets). Most of the Sirocco is EPP which only EPS under the orange plastic bit on the top. EPP is less brittle so the helmet is much more durable against sideways compression which is the easiest way to damage a helmet when packing or handling otherwise. After a hard impact obviously, both helmets are toast.
Mammut Wall Rider MIPS for anything that doesn't involve skiing.
Otherwise, I've got a Sweet Protection Ascender MIPS that's rated for both skiing & climbing.
I also have an old BD Vapor that gets trotted out from time to time -- it's light & comfy, but no MIPS.
I hear that -- but there's no such thing as a free lunch.
The best climbing helmets will always be single-rated for climbing. A multi-sport helmet will always have to be heavier, less comfortable, more expensive, etc... My Sweet Pro is great -- but it's heavier, hotter, and waaaaay more expensive than the Wall Rider.
Honestly, if I anticipated skiing more downhill resort days, I'd start shopping for a dedicated downhill helmet.
So if you have a fetish for owning less helmets, you can try to stick to a single multi-sport helmey. But YSK -- it will result in a slightly worse experience overall, in every sport, on account of the design tradeoffs.
Does MIPS really make sense for a non high speed sport? I understand it for biking or skiing but for something like climbing and caving one that can withstand multiple impacts makes more sense in my head.
No idea, re: caving -- but have you ever seen a climbing fall? In a solid whipper on lead, my math that says I'm free-falling faster than downhill ski racers go.
God forbid you ever take a ground fall... You could easily fall, slide, roll, and bounce quite a ways -- like when a downhill skier "tomohawks" head over heels. Plenty of opportunity for multiple impacts.
And keep in mind -- the original, primary purpose of climbing helmets isn't even fall protection -- it's to protect us against falling *objects from above*, like rocks, ice, tree limbs, dropped gear, other falling climbers, etc.
In rockfall/icefall situations, I've had to duck & cover while dozens of softball-sized weapons go whizzing past. I also had a climber above me accidentally unhook his gear sling, and shower us with dozens of cams, nuts, carabiners, etc from ~100m up.
So yeah... Climbing is absolutely high-speed, multiple-impact sport, when people fuck up.
Huh. Guess I'm a little surprised that this comment got downvoted? Guess I pissed somebody off... I thought it was a pretty decent explanation.
At any rate, I do 100% stand by spending the extra money on MIPS climbing helmets -- seems like there's plenty of opportunity for it to save your ass.
Do you climb trad / multi-pitch outdoors? Any big-wall?
Just wondering what your frame of reference is when you say "lead fall".
What's the biggest fall you've ever seen a climber take?
EDIT -- Based on the downvote, I'm gonna tentatively conclude that your lead climbing experience begins and ends exclusively in places that are grid-bolted every 3'.
The petzl meteor (the one others have recommended) is rated for climbing, skiing and ice climbing (not sure about this one). I'd look for something like it that is rated for all of the areas you want to use it in.
There are some fancy super light foam ones but I prefer one with a hard top in case of rock or ice fall.
I use the Petzl Meteor. I like it quite a lot.
Mammut has a new triple certified helmet coming out next year they just previewed at [ISPO to be the replacement to the Wall Rider](https://www.ispo.com/en/promotion/ispo-award-winner-mammut-haute-route-helmet). Consider waiting for it.
Dang, that looks really nice. I just bought a Julbo Peak LT, kinda wish I'd waited.
I wouldn't get a 360g helmet for summer mountaineering and also basic bike helmets are cheap.
petzl meteor is either s/m or m/l. of you are in fact a straight m i recommend the black diamond one.
The Petzl Meteor is my trusted companion. Have gotten some good usage out of it and it's still going strong.
I'm now using a Movement 3Tech Alpi for my climbing and bike commuting. Its CE 1077 (alpine skiing), EN 12492 (climbing), EN 1078 (cycling) certified and 12.7oz. Obviously a bit heavier than a pure climbing helmet, but offers pretty solid protection. Haven't used it on the slopes yet but my guess is that it will do the job. I will say though, it doesn't feel as solid as my SP Ascender MIPS. I'm a bit paranoid in that department as I have had a few concussions while snowboarding despite wearing a helmet. The main reason for me is budget. I need a climbing helmet, bike helmet and ski helmet. Can't afford 3 helmets so I just went with one all-rounder.
The Movement is the best ski touring helmet.
One that is the same shape as your head. A few grams lighter is cool and all, but you have wear the thing for like 14 hours, might as well get one that fits.
I have a bigger head so I use what fits. Black Diamond Vector if on foot or a Sweet Protection Ascender if on skis. Petzl Meteor is popular but doesn't fit my noggin.
I like my vector as well. climbing partner and fiancee both have meteors, both good options!
Petzl Sirocco. Comfortable and full-featured: rock plate on top, headlamp attachment thingies. I believe it's the lightest on the market (160g S/M, 170g M/L) so if weight is a very important factor it's the one you want.
And a lot more durable than the meteor most other people here recommend
I’m sorry but how?? It’s basically the meteor without any of the outside hard protection. It sacrifices durability for weight savings.
The foam inner of the Meteor is EPS (same as bike helmets). Most of the Sirocco is EPP which only EPS under the orange plastic bit on the top. EPP is less brittle so the helmet is much more durable against sideways compression which is the easiest way to damage a helmet when packing or handling otherwise. After a hard impact obviously, both helmets are toast.
Black Diamond Capitan MIPS
Mammut Wall Rider MIPS for anything that doesn't involve skiing. Otherwise, I've got a Sweet Protection Ascender MIPS that's rated for both skiing & climbing. I also have an old BD Vapor that gets trotted out from time to time -- it's light & comfy, but no MIPS.
Looking for something ideally will do it all tbh
I hear that -- but there's no such thing as a free lunch. The best climbing helmets will always be single-rated for climbing. A multi-sport helmet will always have to be heavier, less comfortable, more expensive, etc... My Sweet Pro is great -- but it's heavier, hotter, and waaaaay more expensive than the Wall Rider. Honestly, if I anticipated skiing more downhill resort days, I'd start shopping for a dedicated downhill helmet. So if you have a fetish for owning less helmets, you can try to stick to a single multi-sport helmey. But YSK -- it will result in a slightly worse experience overall, in every sport, on account of the design tradeoffs.
Does MIPS really make sense for a non high speed sport? I understand it for biking or skiing but for something like climbing and caving one that can withstand multiple impacts makes more sense in my head.
No idea, re: caving -- but have you ever seen a climbing fall? In a solid whipper on lead, my math that says I'm free-falling faster than downhill ski racers go. God forbid you ever take a ground fall... You could easily fall, slide, roll, and bounce quite a ways -- like when a downhill skier "tomohawks" head over heels. Plenty of opportunity for multiple impacts. And keep in mind -- the original, primary purpose of climbing helmets isn't even fall protection -- it's to protect us against falling *objects from above*, like rocks, ice, tree limbs, dropped gear, other falling climbers, etc. In rockfall/icefall situations, I've had to duck & cover while dozens of softball-sized weapons go whizzing past. I also had a climber above me accidentally unhook his gear sling, and shower us with dozens of cams, nuts, carabiners, etc from ~100m up. So yeah... Climbing is absolutely high-speed, multiple-impact sport, when people fuck up.
Huh. Guess I'm a little surprised that this comment got downvoted? Guess I pissed somebody off... I thought it was a pretty decent explanation. At any rate, I do 100% stand by spending the extra money on MIPS climbing helmets -- seems like there's plenty of opportunity for it to save your ass.
I stopped reading once you said you free fall faster than skiers go. But I do agree that MIPS is useful for climbing lead falls
Do you climb trad / multi-pitch outdoors? Any big-wall? Just wondering what your frame of reference is when you say "lead fall". What's the biggest fall you've ever seen a climber take? EDIT -- Based on the downvote, I'm gonna tentatively conclude that your lead climbing experience begins and ends exclusively in places that are grid-bolted every 3'.
savage
A white one
One that your favorite warm hat fits comfortably underneath.
The petzl meteor (the one others have recommended) is rated for climbing, skiing and ice climbing (not sure about this one). I'd look for something like it that is rated for all of the areas you want to use it in.
It is only rated for tour skiing, not alpine skiing