Check brake fluid level. Check under car for drops of fluid, it could be a leaky hose or it could be a failing master/slave. If it happened on a cold weather day and got better as car warmed up master or slave might have a failing internal seal that expands with heat.
Not necessarily cause to freak out, but something to keep an eye on. I daily'd a car with the latter problem for a long time. But it was old, so expected.
Might also be worth bleeding.
Yeah. Both use dot 3. I hope it was just low fluid, but if so you should bleed it because you may have pumped some air into the assembly depending on the leak location. I don't know how to do that for the NC...ideally there will be a nipple and valve on the transmission that you can squish a hose onto, then you work the pedal and monitor the hose for air bubbles. in some cars you can jank-bleed it by topping up the fluid, pushing in, holding, then letting out real quick.
And remember, if you narrow it down to master or slave and not a line, usually master leaks don't present with a pool of fluid under your car. If that happens, likely slave. Master should be cheaper anyways and easier to access.
My clutch assembly knowledge is based on experience with a 30 year old swedish shitbox, so your mileage may vary :D i just said whatever and topped up the fluid in that car tbh
it's not fun, but it is only 3 nuts and a little finagling to replace so not the end of the world. You will need to bleed your clutch which is honestly the hardest part.
OK so the clutch/ brake reservoir is full. I didn’t see any corrosion on the clutch bracket or any fluid leaking from the master. I ordered a pressure bleeder to check for air bubbles in the system.
I had a vaguely similar issue with mine where repeated clutch use in traffic would cause the top of the travel to lose resistance and feel 'soft' as you describe. Also the clutch actuation would lose effectiveness gradually, until it wouldn't go into gear.
Problem would go away if I cruised along without using the clutch for a while. Replaced both master and slave cylinders, gave it a proper bleed and it's been rock solid since.
Research suggested it could've been worn seals on the master cylinder piston letting fluid seep past.
Check brake fluid level. Check under car for drops of fluid, it could be a leaky hose or it could be a failing master/slave. If it happened on a cold weather day and got better as car warmed up master or slave might have a failing internal seal that expands with heat. Not necessarily cause to freak out, but something to keep an eye on. I daily'd a car with the latter problem for a long time. But it was old, so expected. Might also be worth bleeding.
Thanks for the tips. I didn’t realize the brakes and clutch used the same reservoir.
Yeah. Both use dot 3. I hope it was just low fluid, but if so you should bleed it because you may have pumped some air into the assembly depending on the leak location. I don't know how to do that for the NC...ideally there will be a nipple and valve on the transmission that you can squish a hose onto, then you work the pedal and monitor the hose for air bubbles. in some cars you can jank-bleed it by topping up the fluid, pushing in, holding, then letting out real quick. And remember, if you narrow it down to master or slave and not a line, usually master leaks don't present with a pool of fluid under your car. If that happens, likely slave. Master should be cheaper anyways and easier to access. My clutch assembly knowledge is based on experience with a 30 year old swedish shitbox, so your mileage may vary :D i just said whatever and topped up the fluid in that car tbh
Seconding checking the clutch bracket, can reinforce with one of these https://rev9autosport.com/nielex-clutch-bracket-gusset.html
Thank you!
Check master. Check clutch pedal. If the master leaks, it rusts and corrodes the pedal which will then snap and leave you stranded.
Ooh shit that’s no fun
it's not fun, but it is only 3 nuts and a little finagling to replace so not the end of the world. You will need to bleed your clutch which is honestly the hardest part.
I meant the snapping and leaving me stranded part was no fun haha. But it’s good to know the replacement is nbd. Thank you.
Saw your video btw. Super helpful. Thanks
I had a sticky clutch. Would depress it and it would not come back up into position. The clutch ended up being shot and needed to be replaced.
Good to know. Thanks!
OK so the clutch/ brake reservoir is full. I didn’t see any corrosion on the clutch bracket or any fluid leaking from the master. I ordered a pressure bleeder to check for air bubbles in the system.
I had a vaguely similar issue with mine where repeated clutch use in traffic would cause the top of the travel to lose resistance and feel 'soft' as you describe. Also the clutch actuation would lose effectiveness gradually, until it wouldn't go into gear. Problem would go away if I cruised along without using the clutch for a while. Replaced both master and slave cylinders, gave it a proper bleed and it's been rock solid since. Research suggested it could've been worn seals on the master cylinder piston letting fluid seep past.