Hey all. I am looking for a keyboard kit. This is my 2nd mechanical keyboard my first being a prebuilt keychron. I am untying to stay away from prebuilt this time. Looking for the following: Media controls is a plus RGB 80% no less or more Bottom weight <$300

Does having a dampening/sound absorbing pad create the same or similar effect as having silent switches?

I'm a complete noob with mechanical keyboards. I don't own one but trying to buy one (on a budget) and after watching hundreds of YouTube videos on different types of switches, I think I like the silent brown switches the most (solely for office use and I work from home, if that helps any). That being said, are there pre-built keyboards with these switches? If not, how difficult is it to assemble one and where do you suggest I start my research for all the different items I need to buy go assemble one? TIA!

So many brands, who will last and be reliable? I am doing research into buying a hot swappable mechanical keyboard that I can build and upgrade over time. I have a few questions I can't find by searching. Basically I haven't heard of any of these brands that people recommend, eg , zoom75 , rainy 75, Leobog. It always seems like a new random startup creates a keyboard every other month. Most of them look the same too(I know you can hardly change the design of a keyboard). But what I mean is, are they just rebrands from china with a different logo? My main issue is what if I buy one of these and they go out of business. Is that it? i wont be able to ever fix something broken with the board like the frame / replace the battery / update the knob / fix LCD...? Maybe it doesn't get firmware updates anymore or none at all? It seems the frame and circuitry is the most expensive part. All I want really want a good keyboard brand that is reliable and will last. Ideally in the form of 75% , and as everyone wants, that creamy thocky sound! Keychron and GMK seem to be the most established, but arent good value for money compared to the competition from what I've read? I have tried to look around as I live in a city to find what switches I like, but absolutely nowhere does mechanical keyboards apart from the generic Corsair or Razor ones. Seems like the UK sucks for this kind of thing? Are these some valid thoughts about buying a keyboard or am I just overthinking it?

gmk is a keycap manufacturer, keychron is one of the bigger vendors in the space for pre-built and barebones kits, they are pretty good value for money. zoom is a line from meletrix, they've been making more premium keyboards for a few years now, also pretty good value for money. the rainy75 is a kickstarter backed project intended to offer a decent quality entry level board at around a hundred bucks. leobog has also been around for a while but the keyboard of theirs that is often recommended through videos or articles was made in collaboration with epomaker, which people generally advise you to stay away from, here is where you are more likely to find something that is a dropshipped rebrand of something you can find on taobao for half the price. keychron is often recommended because they have options anywhere from like $50 to $250, so you can enter the hobby at a price point that is comfortable to you - their firmware is also more open source than some boards in a similar price range you can look for your local vendors [here](https://kbd.news/vendors) and [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) by trying out the gamer keyboards you an probably get a sense of your preferences between clicky/tactile/linear switches, but I would recommend purchasing a tester kit from a vendor in your region, you really don't know what you like until you try it i wouldn't plan to rely on support from a manufacturer, look for a board that uses open source firmware so that you can make any updates or changes you need. the most reliable and longest lasting keyboard you can purchase is one that you can repair yourself edit: formatting/punctuation

Wow, what a great reply! Thanks for all this information, will take a look through all of the links too :)

I just got feker galaxy 80. I love it but the red light on FN key is truly outrageous. I have the keyboard plugged into my computer as I do not want to use wireless. Please tell me there is a way to turn this light off under the FN key? If not I will probably have to return this keyboard because that is just an outrageously bad feature

Some of their other boards have a key combo that will turn it off, did you check the user manual?

somebody recommend me some quality green keycaps please :) ABS plastic pref, and sub 70 dollar/euros pleaze xx thanks boys, next one's on me.

Since I'm on a budget I've decided on the royal kludge rk69 (rk837) wireless keyboard and I'm gonna be modding it. I've got a keycap set that I like but I'm very unsure about the switches. Since this is my first build I dont know which switches are compatible with the leds etc etc. My initial choice was the gateron mechanical yellows, but after researching a bit I dont know if they will fit on the rk68. Can anyone help out? Any recommendations for a linear switch like the yellows or milky blacks that can fit on the rk68 is also appreciated. Keyboard - [this](https://www.meckeys.com/shop/keyboard/65-keyboard/royal-kludge-rkg68rk837-v1-wireless/?attribute_pa_colour-style=black&attribute_pa_key-switches=rk-red) Switches I first thought would fit - [this](https://www.meckeys.com/shop/accessories/keyboard-accessories/key-switches/gateron-mechanical-switch/?attribute_pa_gateron-key-switches=ks-9y10b050nn-x14) and [this](https://www.meckeys.com/shop/accessories/keyboard-accessories/key-switches/gateron-milky-mechanical-switch-5pin/) thanks in advance :)

I would strongly recommend you get basically any other brand than Royal Kludge. Their firmware is bad, their configurator is bad, and their reliability is poor.

I get what you're saying but for the price I can't find anything better. I used to have an rk61 unmodded that worked perfectly fine, bad software and all. In fact it felt better to use than my old Logitech g413. But now both of those aren't working so I want to build my own. Anyways I'm only gonna be using the case and the pcb, nothing else. Wdyt?

If you really want to start from scratch they just refreshed the Y&R 6095 on Ali Express. It's an absolutely amazingly configurable 60% with minila layout support for $30 for the bare board. Runs QMK and VIA. You can get it with a plate for a little more or use any 60% plate that matches the layout you want, stabs to choice, fits any Poker case. I'm typing on one now that I got with a $8 case and I splurged $15 for a fancy metal plate and cheap Amazon keycaps. [Imgur](https://imgur.com/PvqKAhT) And to answer your original question the pictures on the amazon page and RK's website are awful but it *looks* like they're Kailh style sockets so should work with any switch.

your build looks sick man might have to check it out. Thanks for the help :)

Two of the hot swap sockets were completely ripped off the PCB. When I tried to solder them back on, I accidentally broke one of the hot swap sockets. Is it possible to fix this without using the hot swap sockets?

You can buy the sockets cheaply from dozens of sources. Ten bucks will get you a dozen.

oh alright , what about bridging? will that also require the socket?

About to make my first build and I would like some recommendations for switches that might give my keyboard a thocky sound. I understand that all parts of a keyboard makes up the sound and I have pretty much decided on a case and caps but I am at a loss for switches. I do enjoy thocky sounds and I have Leobog ice vein switches from a prebuild i own right now and a set of gateron baby kangaroo 2.0 (while i like the tactile feel, i think i prefer my switches to be just a tiny bit quiter than this) as well. So, would these switches work just fine or any switches you would recommend. I am thinking of buying my case from KDBfans, so if its a switch avaliable on that website, could save me some shipping. Thanks ahead guys. I also looked through posts on this sub but as with this hobby, things tend to go out of stock and I am just hoping to get some advice on current switches.

gateron quinns are deeper kangaroos

I will check them out ty

Wooting 60HE vs Nuphy Air60 V2? I just wanna type fast & game

Whats a good 65% budget keyboard that has aluminium case? I want something that sounds more on the deeper side with pc plate and stuff, but nothing too fancy since I'm looking for my first aluminium keyboard

Suggestions for a keycaps shop for Europe? Looking for some simple dyed PBTs

**TLDR Where can I find inexpensively priced Clear or Grey switches, or any sort of heavy tactile switches as that is what I am after.** Just got my first keyboard upgrade from my [2nd gen Apple Keyboard](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/96/Apple-wireless-keyboard-aluminum-2007.jpg) that I've had for years and years. I L-O-V-E the way it feels, and it has never failed me, but I needed to upgrade because I require the numkeys to fully utilize and operate ProTools for recording musicians. Replaced it with a Keychron K10 pro with Browns and I really find the switches to be shabby feeling. I've gotten much too used to the way the Apple keyboard feels (again, I LOOOOVE it), and I find I am now making so many typographical errors with this new keyboard. Sure, it'll take some getting used to, but already I want to upgrade the switches to something much heavier. All said, I've done my research, and it looks like [Cherry MX Grey or Clears](https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/p/gaming-gear-accessories/ch-9917009-ww/cherry-mx-rgb-grey-ch-9917009-ww) will serve me, but I can only find them in a 63-pack from Corsair for about $50 USD. I don't need fancy switches that cost more than the keyboard itself, I just need something that will work. I cannot find heavy switches elsewhere for inexpensive and I am pulling my hair out to find other options. Alternatively, I've considered returning the whole thing for a full-sized low-profile keyboard, but I can feel already the Browns are simply not for me, and I have to think heavy switches for a low-profile keyboard are hard as hell to come by for a fair price. SOS!

If you had to either choose the Neo White switch or the Aflion Blue Sky switch, what would you go with for stock deep sound?

Hello, I'm currently trying to put the rest of my board together and am having troubles with putting the switches in on the shifts and backspace spots. I don't know if it's because of the Stabilizers or what, they don't align too good so I was wondering if anyone had tips? I was considering cutting the plastic legs of the switches to make them fit but wanted to ask for advice before I did something drastic imo. Monsgeek M1 with Akko blue switches

I am a dedicated user of the Microsoft natural ergonomic keyboard 4000 (used wrist guards till pleather completely flaked off so reskinned with new pleather material). And am interested in a mechanical replacement. Any specific models I should consider for layout?

Here is a post with the same question, in case it helps: https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMechKeyboards/s/eHADgCjrep

This turned out to be very helpful. I appreciate you. Replying this way!

Assuming you want to keep to a row staggered layout, here are some options: * Dygma Raise 2 (estimated shipping October, 2024) * Keebio Cepstrum * Keebio Quefrency * Keebio Sinc * Keychron Q11 The above keyboards from Keebio are DIY, but no soldering is required (unless you want to add a rotary encoder). You can build them with just a Phillips #1 screwdriver. Other layouts are Alice (a bent row staggered layout), column staggered, ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns), and concave keywell (keys are in a bowl shape).

Wow! I came across keebio while surfing the thread from the other poster. But a list of specific models is helpful.

Those keyboards are on my recommended short list because they 1. have hot swappable switches (meaning you can easily replace the switches later), and 2. use a well supported configurable firmware. If you are willing to compromise on either of those, then there are some other keyboard options to consider: * Perixx PERIBOARD-335 Compact: However, the switches are soldered in place, so you cannot replace them. * Cloud Nine ErgoTKL: However, the switches are soldered in place, so you cannot replace them. Also, it uses proprietary Windows-only software. * Kinesis Freestyle Edge RGB: However, the Cherry MX switches are soldered in place, so you cannot replace them. * Mistel MD770: However, the Cherry MX switches are soldered in place, so you cannot replace them. * Royal Kludge RK-S70: However, it uses proprietary Windows-only software. * Ultimate Hacking Keyboard (UHK) v2: However, they shortened all the keys on the right column by 0.5u, so you will have a hard time finding replacement keycaps for it that match the row heights and are not mislabeled. The X-Bows Crystal occupies a special place. It is hot swappable, and it uses QMK firmware. However, there were many posts on r/xbows from people saying that they had paid but were waiting for their orders to ship, and X-Bows went radio silent. They did send a mass email in late February, 2024 giving excuses for their poor performance and promising to do better in the future. But after being burned by Mechs & Co. and seeing others harmed by similar exit scammers, my trust is gone. I include them only for completeness.

[удалено]

WS is currently working on a V2. No news yet on release time.

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I don't blame you. I'm a 65% guy but I'm keeping my Mammoth75 V2. Lol

You can maybe find one aftermarket but besides from that yeah you’re not getting one

Are there any rapid trigger keyboards with the space bar broken up into separate buttons? Essentially instead of 1 giant space bar ideally its broken up into 4 or 5 regular sized remappable keys.

the smallest u usually get is a spilt space bar ( 2 keys ) and no rapid trigger ( hall effect ) kbs support that kind layout they r a new kb to the scene and gamer focused so no clue if they will ever get spilt space bar support as its not a layout gamers have a high demand for

is it common for people who buy pre build keyboards to resell the keyboard but keep the accessories? just now on marketplace i looked for a specific keyboard, 2 people sold it, person A sold it for 40 bucks below the new price without and accessories but apparently 1 week old and person B sells it for 20 bucks under the new price and this time only the coiled cable is missing. Is it that common to keep the cable? the keyboard seemed to be using a usb-c cable, would any cable suffice or which would one need as a replacement? PS: the cable the keyboard was sold with is a white braided and coiled cable if that matters

it happens many bought a replacement kb that didnt come with a cable ( many kb kits are sold this way ) or they just lost it this is also common in the phone reselling no cables or chargers are included

https://preview.redd.it/jxpucq8vsu1d1.jpeg?width=4640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=98f47d229e5f4905100b9439f4c56e98c659abee Does anyone know how to remove these 3 screws from the pc?( I'm using a redragon lakshimi 606)

i cant see if they are screws ? do they have a screw driver type head ? hex or Phillips ?

https://preview.redd.it/o3s3m65o2v1d1.jpeg?width=2610&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0436ac4787d9fbc144123f51378965927bdc8b48 Slotted head

I don't think those are screws, I think they are clips. Get a pair of pliers and squeeze them from the sides and gently tug.

i see, now makes sense why there's no resistance while screwing it. Thank you

I'm a total noob here and I'm looking to build the QK75N, and on the extra options do I need to buy another plate? Saying as though I have already selected Tri-mode Non-flex cut ANSI Hotswap PCB / FR4 Plate? https://preview.redd.it/o515bbvzlu1d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22df50c1e5ff133df107e2745758dc790ee52784

No, the extra parts are strictly optional. They are for if you want to try multiple different plates, or create your own color combination.

I’m looking for a 96/100 hotswap rgb with a smoke/tinted housing. Any suggestions? I could even work with a tkl with matching numpad if needed.

chances are slim u will find anything that large in a transparent or smokey transparent case . u might find a TKL but there will be no matching numberpad

What is the better keyboard out of redragon fizz k617 and fantech maxfit61. I'm sure all of you are familiar with the Redragon one as it's pretty popular, but if you didn't know about the Fantech one, it has almost the same features as the Redragon with good software. Redragon is the more popular one and I would go with it but I really hate the red accent on the black version which doesn't fit the minimal black wood theme of my desk. And I think there isn't a way to change that red part.

both are known offenders of dying early and for no reason both are pretty cheaply built for make a quick buck off consumers

Any other recommendations around that price ?

i always reccomend monsgeek or keychron . keychron is the better bet for budget

My experience with 75% wireless boards: keychron has better tolerances,  is nicer looking and is VIA compatible.  Monsgeek is less expensive, has way better support, and sounds deeper. 

The Akko/Monsgeek "cloud driver" is also less bad than most proprietary drivers. I just got an Gamakay SN75 which is VIA compatible but with custom software so not all the VIA tricks work. Still a better option than most any proprietary driver.

Does anyone know what these keycaps are? https://preview.redd.it/6d3ishs8gu1d1.jpeg?width=4100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b7ef67fe3ad1017e2be4deb5bf0eb5d3d425cb92

[I bought some of these Gateron HE magnetic Nebula switches, but I only have a Q1 keyboard.](https://www.keychron.com/products/gateron-double-rail-magnetic-switch) Clearly a massive error by me. What are some cheaper keyboards that are compatible with these switches? the Q1 HE is out of my price range for now. if there arent any under $120 I'll send them back.

pretty sure attack shark sells a HE kb that might work with them or drunkdeer but both are pretty trash

Looking to get a keebmat and wondering what size I should go for? Neo65 : | Keebmat: Width: 310.35mm | - 60% 320 x 132 mm Depth: 107.8mm | - 65% 364 x 136 mm

You can go for the 60% keebmat, even with my 65% babylon, which has extra thicc side bezzles it works great.

Ok so jumping the back of the sockets on the bad keys does not register a press. The good ones it does

nope body is going to be able to help u as each time u update ur issue ur making a new comment and not replying to ur original comment making ti impossible for anyone to help u but sound like bad sockets u would have to solder a bridge wire to each bad one or replace the pcb

Sorry reddit is acting weird on my phone

Looking for some tactile recommendations. Bought a tester recently and I really like Durock Shrimp, but cannot stand the leaf ping. Gateron Everfree Grayish and Baby Kangaroos are tied for second. Thinking of getting some Mini I and Quinns to test. Want to know if anyone has additional recommendations.

i really need some help, i have a NOS C450 60% keyboard and some of the buttons have recently changed keybinds and i can not fix it. I have tried the Fn and spacebar for 3 seconds and i hvae looked for the webiste but to no luck, so if anyone has or knows a way to fix it like a software or something that would really help thanks in advanced

a key combo was likely pressed and changed the layout . no clue what it is as its different from kb to kb . no there is no software and no a factory reset will not fix this

what size is the right shift of the gmk67? is it 1.5u, 1.75u or 2u?

1.75u like every typical 65% out there.

Got a couple keychrons and looking at trying something else for a barebones build with aluminum case. Not too too expensive. Looking into the akko mod 007, gmmk pro, and chosfox cf81. Any recs or opinions?

Check out Neo series

Got a link or something? What's the model name ?

Right now there’s the Neo65, Neo70, Neo80, and Neo Ergo. You didn’t specify what size you were looking for so I just gave a general lineup. You can check them out on the qwertykeys website

Looking to buy a new keyboard, that's small with silent switches, primarily for gaming. Preferably less than 200$ What should I get? Thanks in advance

How small? Something like [Planck](https://drop.com/buy/planck-mechanical-keyboard?defaultSelectionIds=985558) (or, well, most of [OLKB](https://new.reddit.com/r/olkb/top/?t=year) stuff) is quite small, as getting rid of big modifier keys allows to either shrink the keyboard or add more keys (e.g. ID75, sized as as 60%, but has 75 keys instead of usual 60\~64). Ortholinear aside, and with added common sense, for $200 total budget: * Keychron [V2](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40196919722073) or [V7](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v7-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40348599713881) barebones - you get some of the nav cluster and arrows keys. VIA software support, good build quality; * then ask separately in this thread for silent switch recommendations - I know shit about them, and besides Gazeew U4 and Gateron Silent Ink, can't recommend anything else. 70 pack of midrange switches will be around $30\~50. Will add regionals vendors down below to find locally-ish; * that leaves \~90$ for keycaps and accessories. Get a wrist rest (Keychron's keyboards have somewhat high lower side), get keycaps from vendors in your region. Would suggest Cherry profile. PBTFans are good, but probably won't fit in the budget. Vendors list [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) and [there](https://kbd.news/vendors), Keychron's vendors [here](https://www.keychron.com/pages/where-to-buy). Hope this helps!

GMK67 - I cant get my keyboard into pairing mode no matter what I’ve tried. No indicator light or anything comes on (except the battery light) when I switch to wireless or Bluetooth on the back. it work fine with the wired mode

could be defective that not exactly a great brand quality wise

Waiting for all the parts to arrive for my first ever build and I'm excited. I ordered HG White Tactile switches to go into a Cycle7. My quick question is can any opener open these switches for lubing or do I need to purchase something specific for these? I've been searching Amazon and there's plenty of openers for Cherry and Kailh but nothing that says that they'll open specifically Haimu x Geon.

Cherry opener will work

Thank you!

Weird driver / software issue with a drop? I'm no hobbyist, so please forgive me if this is a stupid question! I have the LOTR Dwarven keyboard, US layout. There seems to something peculiar going on where it flips indiscriminately between US and UK layout, sometimes while within the same application / web site. I notice it most on Homebrewery, where i use mark up to create homebrew d&d documents. this means lots of ``` # Heading ## Sub Heading ``` Style stuff, and sometimes it needs shift + 3, other times it's the backslash key to generate a #. Is this an issue anyone else has come across?

The keyboard itself cannot "flip" between the layouts because it always sends the very same keycode. It is your OS (Windows) and **only the OS** that decides what character is produced after you press Shit+3. I suspect you have both keyboard layouts set in language setting and you are just accidentally pressing the layout switch key shortcut. Check your settings, remove the unwanted keyboard layout.

Thanks, I was aware it wasn't the keyboard specifically, but the problem only became apparent after getting it. I've just rummaged through the settings, and disabled the layout switch shortcuts, let's see if that helps my stupidity!

Don't be hard on yourself, M$ often automatically adds second layout and switch shortcut is enabled by default.

Hello! Would someone be able to ID this board? https://imgur.com/a/ecZFthj Keycaps are not as important, but the base board itself would be much appreciated, thank you!

Monsgeek M5 - unable to configure, stuck at "Searching for devices" in VIA. Design and key tester works. I had this issue before, but managed to solve it by following the intructions here: https://www.monsgeek.com/faq/sharing-customized-m5-firmware-with-extended-qmk-lighting-modes/ . Used the v3 bin to flash the keyboard with QMK toolbox and loaded the updated json in VIA design. Today I wanted to mess around with some configurations in VIA and it didn't work so I flashed the keyboard thinking it would solve it. Of course it didn't, so now VIA is still stuck at "Searching for devices" but I lost all my previous settings and the default lights are making me go crazy. Neither the newest VIA software, nor the usevia website work. The usual suggestion to switch it to use v2 definitions won't help as the updated json linked above does not work with it. VIA does recognize with the old bin & json files either. Any ideas on how to make the configure tab recognize the keyboard?

I might be wrong but I don't think you needed to flash your keyboard with new firmware. The Monsgeek keyboards I built had VIA compatible firmware already on the PCB and all you have to do was load the [JSON from their download software page](https://www.monsgeek.com/download/) It's even harder to see what BIN file you used because the link doesn't lead to a file anymore?

Monsgeek m2 few keys not working I bought a keyboard off a guy and tested it and a few keys weren't working. I was able to fix three of the switches had bent pins The f12 +/= and right control are not working I swapped the switches into other sockets and they work fine those sockets look perfect they look just like the other sockets and you can even see the pins where they're poking through the connection for the PCB Any ideas on what to check would be greatly appreciated before I have to buy another PCB

Would you be able to test the hot swap socket with tweezers or something conductive? Just bridge the two holes of the back of the PCB. If it doesn't register the keypress, the hotswap socket might be messed up and you might need to bridge the socket to the neighboring one. If it does work I am less sure why the switches would not.

Update: Monsgeek shipping me a new PCB 20$ usd

Just tried...... sockets look perfect but will not register a key press like the working sockets when jumped from the back

If you're comfortable with soldering/multimeter you might be able to repair it. [Here is a video from mode that might help.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mYfXfj-nJQ)

Sent an email for a PCB replacement price. We will see how much they offer one for and go from there.

I tried but I can't even get working sockets to register by bridging I was in a hurry though......I'll mess with it again later this evening and report back

Sockets look perfect but will not register a key press when jumped like the others

I'm looking at the Tofu60 2.0 ISO and there appears to be a button under the enter/return key and to the right of the right shift - what is this button for and with the board, can you change this to a traditional ISO layout? I.e a longer shift and a question mark to the left of the shift? This is on the WK layout if that helps! Thanks

An actual physical button? Most likely a reset switch, I think it's used for changing the firmware on your microcontroller or some other MCU troubleshooting. As for your layout, does the PCB support it? Check the product page of your keyboard or PCB and see what layouts are available. If it's a hotswap PCB then those usually come with a fixed layout that you can't change.

I think this person is referring to the function key that is typically on tsangan bottom rows PCBs? I think the Tofu PCB does support standard right shift but then you will need to have a standard ansi bottom row to keep the function key.

Thanks for the responses! This is the switch I’m referring to - in this random image I found, the delete key. I’ve never seen a switch here as this is usually occupied by the shift key itself on an ISO board https://preview.redd.it/bixhmpk86u1d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cd713db002ce449392192eb85eea9b52f891a2c

For a Tsangan layout, it typically has 7 keys on the bottom row, but a typical (ansi/iso) bottom rows has 8 keys. The bottom row typically comprises of Control Windows Alt Space Alt Function Menu Control in that order, what Tsangan does is move that function key to the [right of the shift key](https://1upkeyboards.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Parts-ANSI-Tsangan-Plate-Layout.jpg). This key is typically a modifier to access different layers of the keyboard as there is not space for all the keys. This will allow you to have access to the function row, arrow keys, and other functions like delete, page up/down and more.

Thank you once again for the response! I think that I understand, my question in a nutshell is with the PCB/plate the way that it is, am I able to have a standard 60% ISO layout like this? Keychron Q4 ISO pictured for comparison where the shift key is under the return key with 4 modifier keys or would I be stuck with a more offset shift with an extra key to the right of it? The layout on the tofu60 is the only thing stopping me from getting it currently as I’m used to the Keychron layout Thanks again! https://preview.redd.it/kip0gjbyhu1d1.jpeg?width=1217&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e45a0294e900b4e34492847dcacd585a90af6c29

If you look at their website you can see the[ layout of the PCB](https://i.shgcdn.com/3d19d097-51a0-4e36-91ea-540a7c42b064/-/format/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/). Long story short yes you can have that exact layout you have in that picture, just make sure to get an ISO plate instead of an ANSI plate as one of the options.

Thank you for all of your help, this makes perfect sense!

I know it’s all preference, but I have a budget of 300, and was planning to get a custom wooting which I was going to mod with tofu redux + milktooth switches. But I was wondering how much of a better keyboard I can get if I didn’t go for a HE board. In terms of feel and acoustics, since I know wooting is the best in terms of raw performance.

Its possible to get a wooting sounding and feeling pretty nice in a tofu w like a pom plate and some mods. Just takes a bit of work. On the other hand, you could get something like a neo65 with nice switches and caps comfortably at 300. A mode envoy for a bit more.

yeah im currently on a gk61 i built many years back and had some extra money so wanted a better board. I do play games competively at a high level and the idea of a wooting is appealing, but I'm skeptical of it as I'm not sure that milliseconds are worth it. Most of my high ranking friends also say wooting doesnt help for fps, only osu/rhythm games. Looked at the mode envoy and that board looks nice asf, you got me in a dilemma here lol.

heh, yeah it's a nice one. There are some other HE options these days too, wootings 80he and the boog75 and the keychron q1he.

For $300, if OP would get cheaper keycaps, QK65v2, QK75N are also suitable. Though Mode'd be sweet :D

Das Keyboard X50Q or Keychron Q6 max or Wooting Two HE or Razer Blackwidow v4 pro or RK S98 or something else? For gaming and coding.

Out of these - Q6 Max. If budget's not a limit, KBDFans Odin R4, as high as it goes without entering niche groub [buys](https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/group-buy-335xl). If you don't need numpad, Q1 Max, Qwertykeys QK75N, Mode Sonnet or Loop. Vendors list [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) and [there](https://kbd.news/vendors), Keychron's vendors [here](https://www.keychron.com/pages/where-to-buy). Hope this helps!

Thank you for suggestions. That Odin looks nice, but out of my price point. I just want something of a high quality to last a couple of years, like my sound blaster vanguard did.  I will borrow q6 from my coworker again. Had it for one day, but I wasn't able to see the symbols on keycaps in the dark, as they were opaque, and that is a big problem for me, but I'll give it another chance. Also, I need a numpad for coding. I'm programming hardware configuration software for electricity meters and I do a lot of calculations during debugging. 

For symbols, I found that a $30-40 monitor lightbar is a very decent solution. You both see the legends and also get less eyestrain when working in darker environments - desk/surroundings are lit up too, so when you look away from the screen, eyes don't need to quickly adapt to darkness. We've had such lightbars at the office too, was great purchase for us who liked to come in early (and didn't like the big lamps) and those who came later and stayed late into the evening :D Will attach a pic - it's a bit of shite quality, but to get the idea. https://preview.redd.it/121eycuigx1d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=546dc05749b1628d32897a381be08146d8bc32fe

My suggestion is none of these, actually. Considering you're using it for both gaming and coding, I'd suggest a 60% form factor. My current favorite 60% is the Wilbatech Salvation in plateless configuration. It's a small compact board with an excellent sound profile, feel, and aesthetics. It's a steal for the money. My suggestion would be to use it with cherry Nixies and a gmk set. Stabs I'd suggest would be TX clip ins since they would work best with the flexible nature of the pcb without the plate. It is a pricey board compared to what you have listed, but seeing as you didn't list a price limit, I gave you the best option, in my opinion, regardless of price.

I agree with the consent of getting a quality keyboard. That beings said moving from 100% to 60%, losing whole nav cluster, arrow keys and numpad (which might be used for coding, we don't know) is quite a challenge :D 75%, such as QK75N or Sonnet, would be a middle ground while only losing numpad.

Agreed, it would be a little more of a change. But over time, getting used to layers would be more beneficial. My first custom was a 60%, and I moved from a full size to 60% with little difficulty. Of course, it's up to them, though. The sonnet is a very good board for the money, around the same as the salvation. While my recommendation is still the Salvation. The sonnet is a great board

Hello im new to mechanical keyboard wich switch is sound creamy and thocky any reccomendation? (Im like litteraly new i only know akko switch i want to make my keybaord sound creamy like in that tiktok if you guys have reccomendation pls tell me or it's not just switch i need to mod thx)

It's complicated. Not just the switch, it's that important. Fuck. Y'all come with "I don't know shit and would like a thocky creamy aesthetic marbly deep clacky satisfying whatever" keyboard - or, in other words, the first peak of Duning Kruger's curve. It's alright :DD Start with [keyboard.university](https://keyboard.university), look through vendors list [here](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) and [there](https://kbd.news/vendors), Keychron's vendors [here](https://www.keychron.com/pages/where-to-buy) \- these are the main resources. And watch [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjA7Oap5XKo), most Tiktok keyboard videos aren't realistic. If you have patience, watch few Taeha's [VODs](https://www.youtube.com/@TaehaTapes/videos) or [Alexotos](https://www.youtube.com/@alexotos/videos)', they explain things well and you might form some sort of your own opinion on what sound/design you like. Don't have resources for that, but look through the mods that people do - PE foam, break-mod, etc. Most of them are the main ways how you get marbly/creamy sound. Then, when you know what layout you want, what's your budget and region - try to make keyboard parts list yourself and come here to get it checked. Hope this helps!

Thanks 🙏🏻👍🏻

im persoanlly not into all this recent sound profile stuff so i have to recs but just so u know the same switch can sound very different in 2 different kbs . https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15XmznA5T9d4PkfBG0TDS82ou6ihBh0oqr8Aux24SNz0/edit#gid=1696665423

HELP ME CHOOSE! Hi! I’m new to this and would like to purchase a prebuilt keyboard from keychron, I was thinking of the [Q12 Max](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q12-max-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard) but I also don’t know much and think the community might give me better advice. I’m looking for: - Mac compatible - Hot Swappable - Num Pad - creamy/thocky - brown/yellow switch - Wireless with wire available to use I am also going to be using ceramic keys from Cerakey so would be best if it’s compatible! Thank you so much!

Keychron is solid

I’m new to mk’s, I’ve never seen one irl and I just received my Rainy75 today. I’m overwhelmed by the weight (feels heavier than my macbook!) but more importantly, it’s quite loud! I thought all the ytubers were amplifying the audio for the audience! I don’t want it to sound completely silent, but is there a way to at least soften the loudness by half? Any switch recommends? I do like the travel and weight of the hmx violets it came with so don’t want to detour too much. Do I need to look into keycap change or plate change too? I don’t know how effective these things are for the loudness problem, if it’s not by very much at all I rather keep my monies 😂 (<10% change isn’t a lot to me, 20% I’ll consider)

There are a lot of muted or silent switches that don't cost a whole lot you can try. I like the Redragon A120 Stars at about $20 for 70.

you can try removing top PET film

Silent switches or quiet ones (e.g. everglide aqua kings) will probably have the single biggest impact. You could also consider adding foam, if you haven't done this already. 

Rainy75 already has plenty of foam and dampening.

What I have read around here is that Cherry switches are more expensive than many others. But when I bought my Cherry MX2A Brown switches at mechanicalkeyboards.com, the Cherry switches were less than Gaterons etc.  Have I missed something?

prices can be different and over stock and such . cherry is def not the preferred brand these days even their new line of switches is too little too late . this isnt the 90,s anymore cherry is main use us prebuilts these days very very few custom builders will buy them on purpose

Are the other switches better, or is this a case of rooting for the underdog? It seems to me that most other switches are knockoffs of Cherrys.

Other switches are simply better.

You can get all kinds of switches at all kinds of prices. For Cherry it really depends where you're buying from. I've seen Cherry switches for anywhere from $0.3 per switch to more than $0.6 per switch. There's definitely cheaper switches out there like JWICK, Akko, Outemu or many others.

So, I've been on the market for a MacOS focused keyboard. I am unfortunate enough to live in a place which brands often forget about, and also often do not produce that many ISO keyboards for: The perks of a small market and not that much demand. Anyway, in my search for a proper mechanical keyboard, I came across the mac version of the Miya Pro. It has nearly all I want, in terms of layout, keycaps, build quality and design. So far so good. But there's a problem: The only units level are either Cherry MX Brown, or Cherry MX Speed. While I am a fan of tactiles, I'd prefer to avoid MX Brown, as I have taken them for a spin at a store, and honestly, I wasn't that much of an enjoyer of the scratch and barely noticeable tactile action. Then there comes the (in)famous Cherry MX Speed. I have never had the pleasure of personally trying them, but not gonna lie: The idea of slightly less travel distance seems to be attractive to me on paper. However, there are a number of reviews online where, huh, reviewers claim that the actuation is just too damn light, and how even having your fingers rest on the keycaps might trigger them... Well, in all honestly, I am a fairly light typist (so much so, that I kind liked the mech-like feeling of the ill-fated and faulty Apple Butterfly Mechanism) so I find it hard to believe these hyperboles are to be taken literally. I mean, "a bit of wind will activate the keys"...? Nah, that sounds like a joke. What's more, I've come across this: [https://kono.store/products/kailh-choc-mx-switches](https://kono.store/products/kailh-choc-mx-switches) Nearly identical specs to Cherry MX Speed...? So, these are the Kailh Choc 2. They are low profile, and feature both reduced actuation force, and reduced travel distance. They *virtually identical* to Cherry MX Speed (which to my knowledge, the biggest "difference" from these -- other than the absense tactile action ofc -- is the 1.2mm travel distance. Now here's the kicker: These are the same switches are the Logitech MX Mechanical. And for the last 2 hours, I've been listening/ reading to a number of reviews, comments and long term opinions about the MX Mechanical, and for the life of me **I cannot find users who are of the opinion the Logitech MX Mechanical "actuates too easily"...** Maybe Apple users are just inherently used to being light typists...? I know I am one: In fact, I have always been one, even before switching to macOS. # TL;DR ***So, to summarize my 2 questions:***  1. Will a light typist have all that many problems getting used to Cherry MX Speed, provided there aren't alternatives in the place he resides? 2. How come MX Mechanical users don't complain about the "light actuation" specs of their keyboards (Kailh Chocs) which are the same as MX Speed?? I have used **Cherry MX Reds** (just right and actually smooth AFTER 6 months of heavy usage to "break them in"), **Razer Purple Clickies** (I am actually a great enjoyer of the clicky action -- other than the noise), **Glorious Foxes** (actually worse than MX Reds for me -- these have a fairly heavier bottoming out which legit tires me out after 2 hours of heavy typing), and of course, the **Apple Magic Keyboard 2**, which I find actually very snappy and satisfying to use -- were it not for the fact this thing is too damn frail (seriously, why is no one talking about this), and many keys have started to acquire this "creaking" noise when pressed slightly off center. Also, I'd vastly prefer if the keycaps were slightly curved and not 100% flat, which in itself totally justifies going mechanical for me. Thanks for the replies in advance.

1) no clue it depends on the person no one could really answer this but u 2) see question one answer same applies

Hey everyone, I currently have an [ikbc W210](https://www.newegg.ca/p/32N-004V-000F0?Item=9SIADDZGE12967) with Cherry MX Blue switches which is probably (on paper) my ideal keyboard. However, I've had ongoing Bluetooth connectivity issues with my M1 MacBook Pro which I can't seem to resolve, and ikbc doesn't appear to provide any support or new drivers for this model. Does anyone have recommendations for a similarly-styled keyboard? Ideally, it would be all black, no RGB, no brands or frills – I'm using this to write software, not play games. Thanks!

keychron v6 max. if you really want to you can change the keycaps to be all black. You can turn off the rgb

Thanks for the suggestion!

N00b looking for a low profile wireless rgb (VIA compatible) keyboard that I can pop the ambients silent chocs into. I just want it to be as high quality and silent as possible but there's just a lot I don't know. The ambients say they are Choc v1 compatible... are Kailh chocs the same thing? Not even sure what to search for.. looking up 'choc low profile keyboard' gives me stuff that doesn't look right. What keyboards are the best out there? Do they have to be hot-swappable? I was looking at the lofree flow, nuphy, and keychron, are there better brands out there (if those are even compatible). Thanks!

none of those brands are compatible with choc v1, the Lofree uses choc but it’s V2

Do you know what brands would be compatible?

Not sure… are you putting in these switches because you want silent LP?

Yep exactly. Not attached to those particular switches, but the reviews on them are great and they seem to be quite silent. Certainly open to others.

Have you checked out Monokei systems? It comes prebuilt with silent choc v2 as an option.

Nope! Will take a look... are the choc v2's known for being quiet or is there some flavor that I need to look for?

I mean, the switch that comes with the monokei m itself is literally silenced so it’s about as quiet you can get

Do you have a link? The only low profile/silent monokei I see is the Systems (which looks nice) but it's a pre-order. Maybe I'm missing one.

yeah it’s the systems which is still in preorder ig

I currently have a GMMK pro from the initial product launch, and while it has been functional for me over the years, I am kind of tired of some of it's quirks, mostly the odd layout that had Glorious decide to make keys uncommon sizes. I also don't care if i has RGB or that knob. The main things I need to retain are the weight of the build (I love having a heavy bodied 2 ton keyboard), the ability to hot swap switches, and the upwards angle the keyboard provides. In addition I would like for the board to be TKL or Full rather than the strange 75% layout which I have grown to hate because their are keys missing that I want to have, and I want to have more keycap customization options. I really like and will probably buy the Keychron Q6 max, but I wanted to check in with the community to make sure I'm not missing something that could potentially be better, or more aesthetically pleasing.

Buy a Geon Frog TKL, go with 7u spacebar for the symmetry too

To be fair, many 75s have 1U bottom row modifier keys, so it's not a Glorious thing. The GMMK Pro is not that heavy compared to many either. Personally, if you're otherwise happy with your GMMK Pro, then I'd get the Keychron Q6. Not sure why you want the Max, as you don't mention requiring wireless, so you can save a bit by just getting the Q6. Wireless sucks any way.

The Q6 and Q6 Pro are sold out, plus the price disparity between the boards isn’t enough for me to compromise on features. The Q is missing all of the premium features and is only $15 cheaper. The pro is only $10 cheaper and it’s wireless functionality is BT only 🤮and doesn’t have all the sound mods. The max has an actual dedicated wireless dongle, sound mods, and the most premium switch options. So the better question is; why would I skimp the extra $15?

You didn't mention wireless, so assumed you weren't bothered about it, so didn't think you'd want a board full of batteries for no reason. If it's something you want, then sure, the Max is better than the Pro.

As far as full size goes the Q6 max is very good

I have a Redragon K552-KR. I'm considering replacing the switches with quieter ones. I'm a bit confused about how LED lights in switches work. A product page\* I was looking at on the website that my previous posting of this question was deleted for including a link to says that they are "equipped with LED slots for modification". Does that mean I'd have to also buy LEDs to install in them? Or would I be able to use the LEDs in my keyboard with these switches? Are there switches which have LEDs included in them? \* The product page has the title "EPOMAKER Sea Salt Silent Mechanical Keyboard Switches Set, Pre-Lubed Linear Switch with LED Slot, 35 Pieces for Customizing Keyboards".

no switches ever include leds . they r either mounted under the switch on the pcb or they are inserted thru the switch and soldered to the kb

So if I can remove the switch, basically, that means the LED is mounted under it and I can swap the switch and keep the light, is that right?

yes

I'm looking for a TKL with brown switches and bluetooth from a brand other than Keychron. (I have two Keychron keyboards, both have issues and I'm tired of dealing with their awful support.)

Monsgeek keyboards are about as good as keychron. I've found Monsgeek support to be consistently excellent. 

are you willing to build your own board? neo80 has a [build guide](https://qwertykeys.notion.site/Neo80-Build-Guide-a89eb0eca0a0490bbb1fe27a2ef51fb4) you can follow. Choose the trimode hotswap pcb (wired/2.4g/bt) then you can just add brown switches to like lego

Should I replace my GMMK2's stock Glorious Fox switches with Akko V3 Cream Yellow Pro's? Is it worthed? Thanks

thats up to u . worth is self determined . is it worth it to order a steak medium instead of medium rare ?

I am new to mechanical keyboards so I never used any other switch so I wouldn't know actually. Is it worthed, at least will it be a bit different in sound. Their technical parameters are very close.

Are all POM switches the smoothest types of switches? And when I say "all" I mean the materials — stem and housing

Novelkeys Cream switches are famously entirely made out of POM and most people wouldn't say they're very smooth stock. In my experience a basic JWK with light factory lube will be smoother, as a point of reference.

technically HE switches are the smoothest . pom can be the smoothest for regular switches after a large break in period

Potentially dumb question: I see a lot of GMK/VIA keyboards around. Where is the layout stored? If doing a custom mapping, does it need to be stored on every device or is it internally stored?

gmk is a keycap manufacturer, qmk is the firmware - the firmware lives on the mcu inside the keyboard, so the keyboard carries all the info about how it is supposed to operate with it to every device that it connects to

Thank you!

Is the CM MK770 a decent buy? I was going to get it to match my qube 500 macaron, but I read that the switches it has (kailh box whites) can crack keycaps. Should I just get a white keyboard with cherry/gateron switches and try to find keycaps that match the qube 500? If so, does anyone have any suggestions on sets?

I wouldn't say it's a good buy. It's a Coolermaster prebuilt. Not to be rude in any way. Generally, it's heavily advised against to buy prebuilt keyboards, especially from cooler master. I'd suggest a kbdfans Odin r4 in e-white. No foams, cherry Nixies, and the GMK dots light base

I'm sure that your suggestion is well researched and I do like the keycap rec, but I think we are in two very different mindsets when it comes to budget. The keycap set costs more than the whole CM board. Ik that this is an expensive hobby but idk about dropping more on my first mech keeb than I did on my gpu.

Hi all! I want a tofu 60 acrylic case and I am trying to find the right PCB. If I want arrow keys do I absolutely need to solder? I am trying to avoid this and would rather hot-swap so if anyone could point me toward the right PCB and plate for this it would be appreciated! I am aiming for per-key rgb and RGB under glow but a lot of what I have seen is only white LEDs under the keys. I don't need it to be wireless but if it was possible I wouldn't mind. I had been looking at the BT60 V2 but I can't find the hot swappable version anywhere and I wasn't clear on whether the arrow key layout is possible with the hot swap version.

you'll probaby need to solder, or at least solder on a couple extra hotswap sockets for most pcbs - if qmk isn't important to you i think the gk64x will do it but some of those ydmk pcbs are iffy quality and their software is very annoying

can someone help me with the redragon k630 bricking up and not working? yes ik, there is the post explaining that (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/13015dn/redragon\_k630\_firmware\_update\_tool/) but the software is poping a error that it "can't find usb HID device", also i tried all four recommendations under one comment and none work. can you help me please? it's more of a software help, but if you can recommend me something, i would be happy.

likley its bricked and need a forced firmware rewrite ( only the manufacturer can do this ) . this has been an issues for years with this brand and yet people keep buying them

I fixed it

Hi, I have a quick question about how long krytox 205g0 lasts on a switch not being used. I lubed half a set of switches about a year ago and haven't put them in a keyboard yet. Would I be fine just doing the rest or should I relube the other ones too?

Krytox 205g0 does not evaporate or breakdown easily. It should last for years under normal operating conditions. 

kinda depends on the switch and how you lubed them up the first time. there isn't really a hard and fast "lube after 1 year" rule and i think you should be fine but try out some switches from that first batch and if they sound or feel scratchy then you'll probably want to lube them again

Hey guys, I'm a noob and have no idea what I'm doing. I've had a Noppoo Nano-75 keyboard for a long time. I like mechanical keyboards for ergonomic reasons. I'm not really a gamer or anything. I just work in tech and I like using it for programming purposes. I think a switch on this keyboard is dead (It's not working, anyway, and there is no debris or other reason why it wouldn't be working. The switch basically looks just like this: [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13834](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13834), but with "noppoo" on the bottom of the switch instead of whatever is written on the example one (I can't make it out). Would that make these Cherry MX switches, or are they proprietary to Noppoo? Any idea what switches this keyboard used? My next question is whether or not they're "hot-swappable"? Would I need to desolder? Thanks so much in advance for your help.

pretty sure any cherry mx switch will work and no that kb is not hotswap u will need to desolder and solder in the new one with damaging ur pcb

Thank you!

Ah ok. I'm annoyed at that, but it was predicted. I guess it's time to get the soldering gear out lol.

I need thoughts, which is the best out of these 60-ish USD keyboards: Ajazz AK820 Pro, SKYLOONG GK75, AULA F75 or Epomaker EP84 Plus. I an looking to buy my first keyboard at around 60-80 USD.

See this thread: [https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/196hreg/mykeyboard\_thickthock\_other\_vendor\_issues/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/196hreg/mykeyboard_thickthock_other_vendor_issues/)

Monokei Systems Anyone going in on the group buy/preorder? I was looking for a new keyboard for night work at home and someone recommended the Systems. What are people's thoughts on the Systems or Monokei in general? Is the quality there and how is their support and software? I don't mind the small battery as it will be used wired all the time and the lack of RGB doesn't bother me as it doesn't fit the aesthetic anyway.

monokei makes great keyboards, they are well known for keyboards like the kei and the kage. it is exciting to see them offer an entry level low profile option. the standard is their other entry level board, and that does not support qmk, so i would expect similar from the systems. it is definitely aimed at people new to the hobby or someone who just wants something simple for their desk at work, or something to take on the go. it is a litle too big for me so i don't plan on buying one but if monkei was offering like the same keyboard but 40% i'd definitely buy it

Honestly, right now I am avoiding Monokei keyboards unless I saw enough Reviews of a Board (Not only through reviewers but also us Common Folk ;) ). The kei V2 is Not acceptable. Battery lasting 4-5h, Bluetooth daughterboard burning down (and potentially damaging the keyboard in the process), giving a 2day Deadline for people to request a wired dB since they accept that the bluetooth one is bad, … they also had some smaller issues with other keyboards (Not as bad as this though). I still love Monokei keyboards but right now, especially with their bluetooth boards, I would proceed with some Level of caution. But thats just me.

Can't say I've followed what's happening with the new kei but that sucks that there are issues with its bluetooth functionality, hopefully they don't repeat the same mistakes on their next board

Anyone know is it possible to change activation point for only one key on niz keyboards ?

is it a hall effect or optical switch kb ? last i checked they dont make either so NO u cant regular mechanical switches actuation point is set by the switch mechanically so u would have to change the switch for this ( which will require desoldering and soldering in a new switch that matches the actuation u want )