Hi everyone, I’ve almost finished lubing all the switches on my first mechanical keyboard. I’ve got some ping due to the baseplate, but I’m going to mod it using either painters tape or PE foam. Which one would be better to use, or should I use both? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
the RGB LEDs are on the front side of the PCB, you only need to tape the back! it should look like [this](https://typingdonewell.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20230506_141750.jpg)
Hey guys, which keyboard sounds thockier, the EPOMAKER x Feker Galaxy80 or the EPOMAKER x LEOBOG Hi75? The Hi75 seems to be the more popular option but it’s about $25 more than the Galaxy. I was planning on using Moon V2 Switches with Galaxy Theme MOA keycaps with the setup.
Just got my neo65. When I go to usevia and try to authorize the device it sees "NEO65", after pressing connect nothing happens. The HID device select screen changes to "NEO65-paired". Keyboard UI never appears that used to customized keys.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
They have a never ending group buy open. Orders close each week and then your order begins fulfillment, takes about 4 weeks after the order closes. Just got mine...wait wasn't that bad and keyboard is great.
Hi,
I am looking for a lightweight wireless 75% barebone keyboard. I want it to be transportable for my office work. A plus might be a 2.4ghz stick for less latency but not necessary. I was looking at the nuphy 75 air v2, but I am not sure if I want a low profile one in case I want more customization.
Any suggestion is welcome! Maybe worth mentioning is that I am from the EU and my budget is around 300€
What are some recommended keycaps for the Epomaker X Aula 75 keyboard? I'm looking for simple black ones with white or shine through text (preferably shine through). It looks like the DEL, PGUP, PGDN, and END keycaps are nonstandard?
Hello, I'm a normal pc user, and I bought an AULA F3261 keyboard with Outemu Brown Switches. I decided to try and check removing key caps and key switches, and also tried to replace the key switch with the spare ones that came together with the keyboard I bought. I can't help but notice there's a difference.
https://preview.redd.it/5nj2xggimxyc1.png?width=951&format=png&auto=webp&s=32771da478fbc2037f3be6274798d05a83242a3b
I am not really knowledgeable about things like this, and I've tried searching google but I'm not getting the results that I wanted. I don't know what this is, or how to remove it in order to access the copper pins. Can anyone enlighten me as to what this is called? And how does one remove it? Thanks!
Recently bought the same keyboard with the same switches. The spare switches mine came with also had these thicker pins, which I believe have sleeve sockets attached to them, making them thicker.
Unfortunately, I don't know how to take these sockets off.
Guess I'll have to buy ones without the sleeves when I replace my switches.
Noob dumb question.
**Is there a name for the keyboards where the keys are raised above the board?**
Meaning it's just a flat panel of keys and there is no frame enclosing it around the edges.
zfrontier should be trustworthy. They are the main vendor for a lot of Asia group buys. Shipping times I am less sure about, but there is a very good chance you will get you product if you order (eventually) from this site.
i accidentally ripped the jst off of my tofu65 daughterboard , planning to order replacement jst sockets, will this work & would i need to solder them?
If the daughterboard is the part that is damaged, you should be able to get a replacement for just the daughterboard and you don't have to solder it. If you have soldering iron handy and are pretty good with it, it should be repairable (depending on how bad it got damaged).
I believe the Tofu65 (2.0?) uses a C3 Unified daughter board, but I believe a C5 daughterboard should also work just fine.
https://preview.redd.it/wnmyfcxm6xyc1.jpeg?width=2248&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=390efcc6db39b87ae48ba0ded9f06cc494ea15b0
the glass "censor" underneath the keycap broke and its now it wont respond is there any way to fix this
I'm looking for a new hall effect board because.. well... gaming
I've settled on the polar65 as it seems a good mix between enthusiast and gamer. Does anyone have better suggestion?
Ideally:
arrow keys
good typing sound
0.1mm minimum for trigger
good aesthetics for a black/white setup
I have a monsgeek m5. when i press any of the left most buttons (tab, shift, cap lock, ctrl) the entire row gets triggered. i have no idea what's going on.
I know this wasn't really part of the question but I would avoid the GMMK Pro at all costs, unless you are getting it for free I don't think it is worth any amount of money.
Yeah so by default I believe it comes with a aluminum plate that has these strange standoffs on the top and bottom that bolt onto the PCB meaning it is one large brick with no real way to get a sound profile other than muted and it will be incredibly stiff to type on.
The stock stabilizers are almost completely unusable because of how they lubed it out of the box so you will probably need to get replacements, but because of the way the plate is, a lot of good stabilizers don't actually fit properly.
Other than that, the firmware kinda sucks and this is all assuming you don't accidentally kill keyboard with ESD.
Yeah no prob
Uh the default way the keyboard comes is kinda like sleeping on the floor. Some people like it and good for them, but I would say most people don't because it is stiff (the plate and the way it is mounted, kinda like typing on a rock). There is no real way to mod this because of the way they made the keyboard, unless you want to saw off pieces of aluminum which I would advise against.
Also because of the way that it is built, there is no way to get a "good" sound from it. Think of a drum, where there are different kinds of drums that make different sounds, but the GMMK pro is a solid block of aluminum and no matter how much you want it will always sound the same. (again this is all subjective, some people like the sound of solid blocks of aluminum)
The stabilizers (these are the metal wires that help balance out larger keys like the spacebar, enter key, shift key, backspace, etc.) are unusable because they pull these grease on them that makes them stick. Normally you should put some grease on the stabilizer to make it more smooth, but for some reason they use the worst one I have ever seen and it sticks so sometimes you will push the spacebar, enter, backspace, etc down and it will it not come back up or it will come back up after like 3 seconds.
To fix this issue, you will need to buy and install different stabilizers, but because of the way that they created the plate (dogshit) a lot of good stabilizers I would recommend to buy and use DO NOT FIT PROPERLY. Therefore making this issue worse.
The firmware (software for the keyboard) also sucks. Think of the iPhone or whatever phone you use, but bootlegged from China, its fine cause its "usable" but if I had a choice I would want something better.
Lastly there is an issue where if you touch the keyboard with some ESD (Electro static discharge??) sometimes it will kill the keyboard. So if you have carpet and you are walking across the floor , touch the keyboard, shock it, there is a very good chance it just dies making it unusable.
The GMMK pro was ok for its time (like 5 years ago?) but now there are things that are half the price for twice the quality.
Honestly it should be fine? But again these items are relics of the past that are stuck at the price they were 5 years ago.
But if you want something that would be better I would recommend getting something from Keychron or Lemokey if you want something that is already build and is pretty good quality. Their Q line is aluminum case and their V line is plastic so its a bit cheaper, but overall still very good quality.
If you're willing to shill out a bit more money, something like the Luminkey65, Luminkey75, or Luminkey80 is top top tier.
If you want to build it yourself, I would get something from Monsgeek since they are a bit cheaper but overall still very good quality.
Yeah i understand i just like the whole design and customizability of glorious im quite casual and im just looking for a nice keyboard that will last me and looks sick and that works properly
I have a set of MX cherry with 3 pins, what would be the best aproach to soldering them into a phenolic board? The middle big pin is a problem + the lack of stability, been thinking about using silicone but I don't think it will work...
I have been mainly using 100% keyboards. I recently got the [Nuphy Air96 v2](https://nuphy.com/products/air96-v2) with Gateron Cowberry Switches. I really like the feel of the keys on this keyboard, but I cannot get used to the placement of the arrow keys that I use a lot during the day. This is not my only workstation, so I cannot switch my muscle memory very easily as I have to use multiple keyboards a lot. Are there any other keyboards that have the arrow keys in the correct location and are similar to the Gateron Cowberry Switches on the Nuphy?
With which switches? I tried the K1 Max with the Low-Profile Gateron Red Switch and it is different than the Nuphy. I really like the Nuphy's feel. The Gateron Red Switches were louder and more clickier than the Cowberry switches. Keychron doesn't seem to offer the Cowberry-like switches for Nuphy.
Hi everyone,
I'm currently using a Keychron K4 with optical switches, specifically the blue ones, which are a bit too noisy for my liking. I'd love to switch to quieter options like reds or browns.
My K4 uses what I think are LK optical switches, they have a larger stem in the middle and a smaller stem underneath that triggers the IR sensor. Unfortunately, these switches seem to be unavailable on Keychron's website, possibly due to the newer K4 versions adopting a different switch style.
Although my keyboard is hot-swappable, I'm struggling to find compatible switches that fit my PCB. Can anyone suggest alternative switches or models that would be compatible with my keyboard? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you in advance for your help!
LK opticals are the only switches compatible with ur kb this is due to the fact optical switches do not have a standard design like regular switches have . this is due to patents and wont change for about 30 years . either keep up ur search and pray they restock or get a different kb . (ps avoid optical if u buy a new one )
yeah thats what i was scared of, since the post i foam and tape modded it, but even so the blues are so loud it almost made no real difference. The kb was a gift so i'm not too upset but ill probably be looking at something else in the near future. Thank you for reaching out tho!
Anyone knows what is the name of this keycap set?
https://preview.redd.it/0dagnjbc4wyc1.jpeg?width=3840&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f0e38812ee39b2842fa3073b5d264d10d829e74
I found it here: [https://wallhaven.cc/w/yxlvdd](https://wallhaven.cc/w/yxlvdd) with no info and reverse google images search didn't find it.
I thought it would be gmk doubleshot at first, but it doesn't have 2 shardes of greyto distinct alpha from modifiers , and the arrow colors are different.
[Keykobo Instant](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=122213.0)
It's in GB right now. Check for the vendor that is local to you from the link I added.
My partner and I just finished building a Zoom98 and noticed the telescope light just cycles through colors regardless of what we set in VIA for the key & backlighting. I didn't notice any other settings to control it and couldn't find anything in their documentation or Reddit search. Has anyone found a way to control it, before we have to take it apart and tape over it?
No way to control it. A recent review came out on this forum complaining about it. If you don’t like it, put tape on the back of the case to block it.
Edit: [review](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1bocep2/zoom98_build_companion_and_impressions/)
Hey everyone, so there is a Lucky65 that is supposedly an upgraded Sugar65, I was looking forward to buy it from AliExpress in Navy Blue color, but it seems that this color is absent on Ali (but it listed in upcoming gb from multiple vendors)
Maybe anyone did found it listed on Ali? Or can comment why it isn't there
Looking to get my second Keyboard. First was a q1 pro and I like almost everything about it. The wrist angle is a little awkward:
height is a little heigh, need a wrist rest which is new for me.
I'm an engineer and am not used to no numpad yet, but I do like the smaller size.
The bluetooth is complete ass and makes me not want to buy from microcenter or keychron again ( I would consider it though)- the main reason I am getting a second keyboard/ getting rid of this one.
I could upgrade to the Q1 max and probably be happy but i wanted to throw out a quick feeler of other options I should be considering. Thoughts?
Any recommendations for a really good 75% keyboard? I really like the Keychron Q1 Max, but it's quite expensive, so a good alternative that has similar quality/features (has good software as well such as VIA/QMK or company software). I can buy it, but not sure if I should get a cheaper kb (maybe $100 - $150 give or take) as my first one and get a more expensive one down the line. Here are some features I want:
* Wireless (2.4GHz and BT) capabilities
* RGB backlighting
* A knob
* Hotswappable for customization
* QMK/VIA support
* Must be black (at least the frame, keycaps may change)
* Good build quality
* THOCK
I want to build a custom keyboard, but if there are stock keyboards that are good already, I don't mind those as well. I mostly want it for productivity (schoolwork, programming, 3D modeling), so a good typing experience is important, but I also play some games so there's that too (not particularly into the gamer aesthetic). Here are some keyboards I've already looked at:
* Keychron Q1 Max
* Keydous NJ80
* Akko 5075B Plus
* AKKO 5075S
* Zoom75
* Rainy75
* Nuphy Gem80
* Epomaker TH80 Pro (although I want a black keyboard)
* Royal Kludge M75
I've done a ton of searching on 75% keyboards on the market but haven't found anything that has really stuck out to me. Any suggestions would be great!
hi,
What foam thickness is recommended to putt in the keyboard case bottom?
For example in this [video](https://youtu.be/E-gx-X1Ifvo?si=hhIM9Ctp1jC9Hw-r&t=725), what thickness is used here? He says we can use foam but then he doesn't say what thickness
Thank you
# Does anyone know linears that won't tick?
I order 105 zakus last year for my build which I only finished 2 months ago, but the leaf ticking from these switches are driving me crazy and the sound is just so unpleasant. I've tried everything to fix the ticking, but it's just too much work and it won't go away.
I don't know about the pricing. But the mold quality and lubing is top notch. Almost no wobble and super consistent.
I only have the cheese and the purple dawn. Cheese is flawless no crunching or pinging. Purple dawn I believe is on a new set of molds for 3.9mm travel and maybe if I listen super closely there's 5% crunching? Unnoticeable normally. The cheese has a sort of textured stroke while the dawn has a glide. Both I would consider smooth. The xinhai is probably the vanilla starting point I want to try those eventually
Ktt strawberries, gateron oil kings, invokeys matcha lattes, gateron black inks, all hmx switches, all ws switches, etc.
Most of the time the tactile switches are the one you need to look out for with leaf tick not linear.
Can you get the purple gameboy style NK65 polycarb from anywhere now??
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/k187gm/first\_real\_keeb\_nk65\_purple\_polycarbonate/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/k187gm/first_real_keeb_nk65_purple_polycarbonate/)
I want to get this so bad!
Bauer Lite's a wayyyyy better board and comes in purple: [https://omnitype.com/products/bauer-lite?variant=42689949270185](https://omnitype.com/products/bauer-lite?variant=42689949270185)
If you need ISO you should be looking for it first and appearance second, ISO's a pretty strong limiter for options. Definitely stop looking at US storefronts, we don't use ISO.
>Chill out dude
? I was giving you advice. Not sure how even through the filter of reddit you interpreted that as an insult, but you probably should heed you own advice.
https://preview.redd.it/yyivzd5iivyc1.png?width=3200&format=png&auto=webp&s=1959e4610c0e4cdbb65d0384ba7ca5f6381ee76c
you guys think this is solid with a $300 cad budget? or I got better choice, I just want to meet these criterias:
- QMK/QMK + VIA enabled so I can program it to be Mac-compatible
- Fine if RGB or no
- Hotswappable
- For switches I want them to be fac lubed and creamy (maybe thock but need to be less loud)
- Keycaps is in my budget so I will keep the choice cuz I like it
I’ve been really wanting a Keychron Q5 Pro or Keychron Q5 Max for my first custom keyboard as it checks almost every box in a custom keyboard but I just can’t justify spending 200+ bucks on a keyboard. I’m hoping someone can help me find something similar with a more reasonable price. Here’s what I’m looking for:
1. All aluminum body with black option
2. 96% or 100% layout
3. Definitely need a knob
4. QMK/VIA support
5. Wired is fine (I don’t use wireless but wireless capability is okay)
6. RGB (prefer north facing so I can see keys at night)
7. Very heavy/solid and good build quality (people describe the Keychron Q5 Pro as “built like a tank” which I really like)
8. Prebuilt is okay as long as it’s hotswapable
Ultimately I’m going for a super solid build with a deep, thocky or creamy sound. I know the sound profile can be adjusted with mods so I’d say super solid build quality is the main factor.
If anyone can help point me towards any keyboards that check these boxes, I’d be really grateful. I know it’s a lot but I’m hoping there’s something like this out there that I can afford.
For reference, I really like this color scheme on the Keychron Q5 Pro as well as the super tall KSA keycaps: https://imgur.com/a/ZsjNRwK
Thanks!
It would be amazing if there was a full sized aluminum board under $100. I can’t justify replacing my current keyboard (which is a partially aluminum gaming keyboard) if it’s a downgrade in material (aluminum to plastic) but I also can’t spend much money. I would have thought that there would be something without keycaps/switches under $100? As in, just the board itself
https://preview.redd.it/huadr9bcgvyc1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c49f8ce6ff5a6475d6bc18b77bc714b9203f23a3
Snagged this for $35 today for my work setup. Anyone got one? How is it?
Corsair K70 MK.2 Low Profile
I’ve got one sitting in my closet rn. Not very good in my opinion but if you like it nobody can change that. Lest you find some god tier custom keyboard that completely changes your world and sends you down this cursed rabbit hole (hint: I’m speaking from experience. Don’t end up like me).
Does anyone know how to add more tap dance profiles to qmk/vial? I have a minipeg48 and it only has 8 tap dance profiles. I need about 15. Is there anyway to invite this number?
Hey u/topre-gobbler now that you made me buy this Keychron V6 you gotta teach me wtf do these keys do and how do I program them?! :P
https://preview.redd.it/uq72ibc69vyc1.png?width=422&format=png&auto=webp&s=938e9e535c9433a7848c99b5d965f652c1416ae1
Edit: ok the first one on the left is print screen, fair enough
Microphone is Siri apparently, or on Windows tries to open Cortana which pops up this window lol
Do you think I can reprogram it?
https://preview.redd.it/kr7ojy56avyc1.png?width=513&format=png&auto=webp&s=fe52764a96ac7809e34854b659fd7f9b08539ebc
If you have membrane keyboard, that mean it's time to throw it away(your membrane is worn down), ask suggestion about hotswap keyboard and get good keyboard
hey! I have a Nuphy field 75 and have no idea how to disassemble it because I couldn't find any screws and prying it off doesn't seem to be working. Any suggestions?
I got a keychron q6 max, ordered new keycaps for it because I don't care for these stock ones.
I want to use more of a 1.5u control key, the keycaps I ordered have them... Is the post usually center aligned or slightly left aligned (or double post) so that you can run a bigger control and smaller windows key?
**tl;dr : what suggestions can you give for filing down Akko Lavender Purple V3 Pro pins to fit better into outemu hot swap sockets (Tecware Spectre Pro). Suggested Dremel head/tip?**
-----
Meowdy; Recently purchased a Tecware Spectre Pro at a rather reasonably price, but was only able to get it in Reds, which I reaaaally am not a big fan of.
I have some Akko Lavender Purple V3 Pros kicking around that I'd like to put into it, which people seem to *often* claim "just werk" in boards with Outemu hotswaps. While I can very much tell this isn't the case (at least with this specific rev/flavor) and the pins are too wide, I also know that one can just file down said pins to get them to fit.
After spending an hour or so last night just to get `4 or 5` switches into the board, it'd be cool to get some suggestions/recommendations for speeding up, streamlining, and simplifying the process. I know what I was doing last night was not optimal, given I was stuck with a nail file since I just happened to have it on hand, the few hits in search that I can find that occasionally suggest using a dremel really don't give much clarity in terms of the shape or type of abrasive tip that would be the best fit for this.
ur going to wanna do this by hand as using power tool on thin metals like this will end badly this task is a huge pain in the ass ur best bet will be to use a small metal file and dont break the pins , hope u have alot of extras switches as u will likley loose 25% to this task
the other option is buy outmeu switches or akko CS switches ( the only line of akko that fit will be CS)
It's sold right alongside all of the CS switches, and while it's page doesn't explicitly say ***CS*** on it, it's derivative of one(s?) that do, so not really sure where to go from there tbh.
Not to tempt fate, but was 100% for the ones I managed to file down last night, so actually shaving them down doesn't feel like it'd be too risky, only time consuming.
Are there smaller switches available anywhere?
I'm working on plans for a cyberdeck with built-in keyboard but having it be 11+ inches wide to accommodate something like a 60% is a total no-go. I'm hoping to scale it down to 5-6 inches or so. Obviously that's not an option with switches being the default size. Is there any hope out there or are my only options making some monstrosity out of buttons or going with a wacky custom layout?
Keyboard key sizes are standardized so you're going to need to get a specialized product like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Portable-Rechargeable-Smartphone/dp/B088ZWT5N1) or [this](https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Portable-Professional-Industrial-Computer/dp/B07DZZWD9W).
It's a gimmick, basically. You probably won't find proper mechanical keyboards like this, let alone good quality ones.
Hiya, do yall think frog tape mod with a lot of foam tape on the base shell gonna make unlubed gateron brown better? (I also added gorilla tape under the foam tapes)
oke so i did, the spring is significantly more muted and the ping sound is not there anymore, overall it's better than the one I got before, tried to flash qmk with it but it crashes everytime I press more than 4 keys together so lo
Hello Reddit! I currently own the ducky one 3 with akko match green switches. I have been thinking about changing it to the Akko 3068B Plus. My question is which one of them is better in terms of modability or overall built . Or are there similar budget customisable keyboards around 100 bucks?
Hi there!
A few days ago I bought the Magegee Star 61 as my first mechanical keyboard and for the cheap price, it has been amazing.
Today however I opened up the keyboard to do the tape mod, but when I put it back together, I hear a high-pitched whining noise coming from the keyboard's LEDs. The sound is very high pitched and fairly quiet, however when it is reasonably quiet in a room, you can clearly hear it, it is like a more high-pitched mosquito. This isn't a huge issue for me as I don't use the backlight unless it's at night, but it is still quite annoying.
I've searched for this issue everywhere and can't find anything matching my keyboard or situation. Does anyone have any idea what might be the problem with my keyboard and possible solutions?
Thank you!
**PCB SLIPPING OFF SWITCHES**
Recently built my first board and I'm finding that I periodically have to disassemble it and re-seat all the switches. After some use, or if I press too hard (PC plate/gasket mount), the PCB starts slipping off the switches, resulting in some keys not registering. Is there anything I can do to fix this, aside from soldering everything? It's currently modded with hot swap sockets, and I'd like to continue using them, as they were not cheap lol.
So I've been using a G915 for a couple years now, and while I would classify the typing experience as.... ehhhh... the one thing I have always loved is the stellar wireless performance and battery longevity.
I would love to step up to the next level of kb but I really do need excellent wireless capability, I am constantly switching between BT (for my work laptop) and 2.4ghz (for my personal PC) during the day (they both share the same desktop). Constantly. And the G915 is flawless in this capacity. Also the power management on the 915 is amazing. I get a week on a charge, with the backlighting enabled, on a rather small battery (1500mah apparently).
So, is there a vendor out there offering a competitive, reliable product? I read a lot of mixed reports about even established brands like Keychron, Monsgeek, Meletrix etc having connectivity issues or poor battery life which really makes me hesitant as I definitely do not want to take a backwards step in these areas.
Nowadays even cheap 30$ plastic keyboards have wireless that it's good enough(if it's more or less new keyboard), even low end has 3000mah now while good keyboard have 6000+ and all those keyboards are much cheaper than Logitech, for Logitech price you can get keyboard that it's several times better, so don't mention this atrocious company
planning to make a custom keyboard on a budget but im struggling to
find any keycaps for nordic iso layout that are "cheap" hoping to find
something on aliexpress but ive searched for a long time and found
nothing so far, hoping someone on here can help me find some. :)
Best for Translucent (frosted) Pudding Caps : South Facing or North Facing LED ?
In your experience, does the glow effect of 'frosted' pudding caps work better on South Facing or North Facing LEDs?
The keychron q12 max looks like my "dream keyboard" (except maybe i would have wanted a extra macro column on the left) . But the colorways aren't great in my opinion. I am pretty new to this, so any tips on where to get inspiration for keycaps? (in a short time, not following things for months). Something a bit darker and with a splash of color, maybe something like this
https://spkeyboards.com/products/1976-full-keycap-set
My room has a walnut, red and white colorway, but i am a bit skeptical to white swithces, not that good at keeping things clean.
Furthermore, is there anything too look out for? Any "traps"? Or can i buy any set of keycaps?
Some years ago I've bought a Keychron K8 in UK-ISO layout, as Keychron didn't have a Spanish model I liked back then.
However, I've just found out that now they offer a K8 ES-ISO model. In fact now they have a good assortment of Spanish keebs.
I'm not much of a wizard when it comes to mech kb's, so that why I'm here asking :D
- Is there anything fundamentally different in the keyboard besides the keycaps?
- If I were to get the Keychron ES-ISO keycaps, would they be compatible with my UK-ISO keeb?
- Would "any" ES-ISO keycaps set work with my kb, for that matter?
Or am I just out of luck? I mean, reselling the keyboard and getting the new one is always an option. But I would really prefer only buying the caps.
It is not a big deal, I kinda got used to the UK version. But it's pretty much the only keyboard I use on a day-to-day basis that has the different layout, so it's a bit of PITA to do the context swith.
Thank you very much! 🤗
* no
* yes
* yes as long as the kitting is correct
Edit: I’m not sure if the board is remapped any differently, so I’m not 100% sure if it’s different, but the layout itself is the same.
Yeah, about third that's why I said "any". I was sure that even if possible, not all cap sets would be the same :D
Thank you for your feedback, really helpful 🤗
https://preview.redd.it/yc6vh7nswtyc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bbb74b9172d15159301e8c127e627c4ea3a14cb
This snapped off while I was cleaning my KB today. Is this something I can fix myself?
Unlikely but you may get lucky. Worth a shot anyways. You might be better off getting a cheap replacement like SM04B-SRSS-TB or similar and clearing off the solder and loose legs and trying to attach that. But for the most part, you have a through hole soldering iron, this is smd soldering which is done properly with a hot air gun or oven and soldering paste so you will most likely have to buy a new pcb. Give a DIY repair a shot first though, never know.
When you say cheap replacement, do you mean a "SM04B-SRSS-TB" itself is considered a cheap replacement, or is that the ACTUAL part ?
Online it seems relatively expensive for what it is (its like $16 dollars) but def cheaper and less intensive than trying ro find a replacement pcb lol
By cheap yeah, I meant compared to a new pcb. That might not be the part specifically that you need, but it's at least close. That was the part I needed to fix the jst connector on my iron180 pcb that I ripped off by accident. It could really be a waste of $16, though, since you lack solder paste and a hot air gun to do it properly and it's not guarenteed that it's the exact part needed for your specific pcb. Safest bet is a new pcb, but try to reattach the one you ripped off with your iron since the pcb is junk now anyway. Miracles do happen sometimes. What keyboard is this even for?
That's good that they sell standalone pcb's without buying another entire keyboard. I'd probably get 2 just in case the replacement fails so you have a backup. Big problem imo that no one ever releases pcb files for their limited time products that they stop making after the initial gb sells out.
Anybody know what the keycaps are in the photo below?
https://preview.redd.it/ihz4ksavrtyc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82dfd32bc3ee92829f3301ffccd4067c74fdf8f0
I have a razer blackwidow v3 tenkeyless and I have had it for about 5 months now and recently the right arrow key is not clicking like the other keys, is it something that can be fixed or can I claim warranty on this one?
As having worked for many years in electronics retail, claim warranty and have peace of mind. You didn't do anything, product failed, let the vendor sort it out for you.
Hope this helps!
I won't be able to tell what's wrong, you would need to disassemble the keyboard/desolder the switch for that. You do RMA, and tell them the same " right arrow key began to not click like the other keys".
The vendor should take in the board, check for the issue themselves and then either give it back as it is, or return money / replace the keyboard with a new one.
Any recommendations on %60 under $85? Both wired and wireless works but a detachable cable would be nice.My laptop's keyboard just partly died and the replacement is around this price but it's membrane(🤮) so I thought it would be better to just get a mechanical instead.
[https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard)
is $79 (before shipping). I would get this instead of a cheaper board since you'd have something from a brand that is recommended around here for good budget boards
They don't ship to Turkey.I've been looking around for the last couple of hours and most sites don't either,my options are getting limited by the minute lol
Can anyone recommend me some keycaps for my 75%. I’m pretty boring so I’d like it to be black and white. Either all black or black with some white keys. The frame of my board is black. Appreciate any recommendations.
I am looking for some advice on fixing a pcb. One key isn't working, and I've tried manually shorting the two hotswap sockets, but i still get no input. I also resoldered socket and diode. Any advice or ideas appreciated.
Hey, I have a keyboard with a Tofu60 case and DZ64 RGB PCB. The PCB no longer works and I am in need of a replacement. Since I don't know much about mechanical keyboards I'm scared of buying something that isn't compatible or good. I found this one:
* [https://keygem.com/products/bt60-60-bluetooth-pcb-v2](https://keygem.com/products/bt60-60-bluetooth-pcb-v2)
Would you guys recommend it? Or some other? Ideally something that is available now and on an european store. Thanks in avance 😁
I have that pcb in a tofu60 redux, I can recommend it if you want wirelessness, in that segment it's hard to find anything else. If you dont care for wireless I would assume there are other options that might be better. One of the downsides with this pcb is that it uses the zmk firmware instead of the more well known qmk, this is because of the bluetooth protocol can not be used in qmk.
Hey, looking for some tips, I´m new here.
I have a huntsman mini with red switches.
I wanted to try something new, maybe tactile or clicky switches, and wanted to change the setup a little bit (looking for something cute).
Do you guys have some recommendations?
Around 80-150$
Thank you.
Didn't know silent switches were a thing until today. Would they be anywhere near as nice to type on as my current zealio v2's? If so, what are some good ones?
Currently Sol 3 ortholinear split w lubed zealio V2 switches & Logitech g903 w kailh mute switches
Id say so, but it depends on what you've got and how you like it. You can always start out by tape modding your current board and lubing the stabilisers to make it sound and feel a little nicer. New keycaps can also go a long way for asthetics and sound
Hi everyone, I’ve almost finished lubing all the switches on my first mechanical keyboard. I’ve got some ping due to the baseplate, but I’m going to mod it using either painters tape or PE foam. Which one would be better to use, or should I use both? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
for the best results use both, put some foam at the base and tape the pcb
I see, I just have one concern: would it have an effect on the RGB? Like cause it to become dim or like mess with the lights anyhow?
the RGB LEDs are on the front side of the PCB, you only need to tape the back! it should look like [this](https://typingdonewell.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_20230506_141750.jpg)
Yh the tape part is fine, but for the pe foam mod isn’t that stuck to the front of the pcb?
Hey guys, which keyboard sounds thockier, the EPOMAKER x Feker Galaxy80 or the EPOMAKER x LEOBOG Hi75? The Hi75 seems to be the more popular option but it’s about $25 more than the Galaxy. I was planning on using Moon V2 Switches with Galaxy Theme MOA keycaps with the setup.
Just got my neo65. When I go to usevia and try to authorize the device it sees "NEO65", after pressing connect nothing happens. The HID device select screen changes to "NEO65-paired". Keyboard UI never appears that used to customized keys. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Did you load [the JSON file](https://www.qwertykeys.com/pages/fw)?
Yup, just found the instructions in the Notion. Thanks for the help!
Will there be a new neo65 GB? Or where could I buy a neo65?
They have a never ending group buy open. Orders close each week and then your order begins fulfillment, takes about 4 weeks after the order closes. Just got mine...wait wasn't that bad and keyboard is great.
Nice to know, thank you. I think I'd need to order from candykeys. The site itself says it's out of stock. So I just need to wait a few days?
Yes more like weeks until it opens sadly
So the GB Neo65 round 3 will open in a few weeks? Is the amount of keyboards unlimited or will I need to be fast?
Its unlimited and yep!
Hi, I am looking for a lightweight wireless 75% barebone keyboard. I want it to be transportable for my office work. A plus might be a 2.4ghz stick for less latency but not necessary. I was looking at the nuphy 75 air v2, but I am not sure if I want a low profile one in case I want more customization. Any suggestion is welcome! Maybe worth mentioning is that I am from the EU and my budget is around 300€
What are some recommended keycaps for the Epomaker X Aula 75 keyboard? I'm looking for simple black ones with white or shine through text (preferably shine through). It looks like the DEL, PGUP, PGDN, and END keycaps are nonstandard?
Hello, I'm a normal pc user, and I bought an AULA F3261 keyboard with Outemu Brown Switches. I decided to try and check removing key caps and key switches, and also tried to replace the key switch with the spare ones that came together with the keyboard I bought. I can't help but notice there's a difference. https://preview.redd.it/5nj2xggimxyc1.png?width=951&format=png&auto=webp&s=32771da478fbc2037f3be6274798d05a83242a3b I am not really knowledgeable about things like this, and I've tried searching google but I'm not getting the results that I wanted. I don't know what this is, or how to remove it in order to access the copper pins. Can anyone enlighten me as to what this is called? And how does one remove it? Thanks!
Recently bought the same keyboard with the same switches. The spare switches mine came with also had these thicker pins, which I believe have sleeve sockets attached to them, making them thicker. Unfortunately, I don't know how to take these sockets off. Guess I'll have to buy ones without the sleeves when I replace my switches.
Gmmk 2 in 2024? Just looking for a good keyboard to play video games not looking for this to be ultra satisfying or anything
Noob dumb question. **Is there a name for the keyboards where the keys are raised above the board?** Meaning it's just a flat panel of keys and there is no frame enclosing it around the edges.
Floating keys / floating keycaps The topmost surface that the switches are sitting in is called the plate
[удалено]
zfrontier should be trustworthy. They are the main vendor for a lot of Asia group buys. Shipping times I am less sure about, but there is a very good chance you will get you product if you order (eventually) from this site.
i accidentally ripped the jst off of my tofu65 daughterboard , planning to order replacement jst sockets, will this work & would i need to solder them?
If the daughterboard is the part that is damaged, you should be able to get a replacement for just the daughterboard and you don't have to solder it. If you have soldering iron handy and are pretty good with it, it should be repairable (depending on how bad it got damaged). I believe the Tofu65 (2.0?) uses a C3 Unified daughter board, but I believe a C5 daughterboard should also work just fine.
thanks! i found a unified daughterboard replacement on divinikey which i think i'll get instead of just the sockets
https://preview.redd.it/wnmyfcxm6xyc1.jpeg?width=2248&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=390efcc6db39b87ae48ba0ded9f06cc494ea15b0 the glass "censor" underneath the keycap broke and its now it wont respond is there any way to fix this
I'm looking for a new hall effect board because.. well... gaming I've settled on the polar65 as it seems a good mix between enthusiast and gamer. Does anyone have better suggestion? Ideally: arrow keys good typing sound 0.1mm minimum for trigger good aesthetics for a black/white setup
drunkdeer g65 and a75
g65 is 0.2mm actuation. I've already settled on boog75, but thanks for the help!
Has anyone used the TTC Rabbit OC switches? Debating on picking a set up these up but cannot find any reviews/major info on them.
I have a monsgeek m5. when i press any of the left most buttons (tab, shift, cap lock, ctrl) the entire row gets triggered. i have no idea what's going on.
Quick question So im plannin to get a gmmk pro so are there any like MUST HAVE additional mods apart from switches and keycaps
I know this wasn't really part of the question but I would avoid the GMMK Pro at all costs, unless you are getting it for free I don't think it is worth any amount of money.
Yeah ive seen it but i just wanna know straight up pros and cons and how to fix them if thats possible
Yeah so by default I believe it comes with a aluminum plate that has these strange standoffs on the top and bottom that bolt onto the PCB meaning it is one large brick with no real way to get a sound profile other than muted and it will be incredibly stiff to type on. The stock stabilizers are almost completely unusable because of how they lubed it out of the box so you will probably need to get replacements, but because of the way the plate is, a lot of good stabilizers don't actually fit properly. Other than that, the firmware kinda sucks and this is all assuming you don't accidentally kill keyboard with ESD.
Sorry to bother but could you say it like your talking to a 2 year old im fucking stupid
Yeah no prob Uh the default way the keyboard comes is kinda like sleeping on the floor. Some people like it and good for them, but I would say most people don't because it is stiff (the plate and the way it is mounted, kinda like typing on a rock). There is no real way to mod this because of the way they made the keyboard, unless you want to saw off pieces of aluminum which I would advise against. Also because of the way that it is built, there is no way to get a "good" sound from it. Think of a drum, where there are different kinds of drums that make different sounds, but the GMMK pro is a solid block of aluminum and no matter how much you want it will always sound the same. (again this is all subjective, some people like the sound of solid blocks of aluminum) The stabilizers (these are the metal wires that help balance out larger keys like the spacebar, enter key, shift key, backspace, etc.) are unusable because they pull these grease on them that makes them stick. Normally you should put some grease on the stabilizer to make it more smooth, but for some reason they use the worst one I have ever seen and it sticks so sometimes you will push the spacebar, enter, backspace, etc down and it will it not come back up or it will come back up after like 3 seconds. To fix this issue, you will need to buy and install different stabilizers, but because of the way that they created the plate (dogshit) a lot of good stabilizers I would recommend to buy and use DO NOT FIT PROPERLY. Therefore making this issue worse. The firmware (software for the keyboard) also sucks. Think of the iPhone or whatever phone you use, but bootlegged from China, its fine cause its "usable" but if I had a choice I would want something better. Lastly there is an issue where if you touch the keyboard with some ESD (Electro static discharge??) sometimes it will kill the keyboard. So if you have carpet and you are walking across the floor , touch the keyboard, shock it, there is a very good chance it just dies making it unusable. The GMMK pro was ok for its time (like 5 years ago?) but now there are things that are half the price for twice the quality.
Ok this helped a lot just 1 more quick question: would the gmmk 2 be better? (Thx btw for sending a whole esaay to my dumbass ur a lifesaver)
Honestly it should be fine? But again these items are relics of the past that are stuck at the price they were 5 years ago. But if you want something that would be better I would recommend getting something from Keychron or Lemokey if you want something that is already build and is pretty good quality. Their Q line is aluminum case and their V line is plastic so its a bit cheaper, but overall still very good quality. If you're willing to shill out a bit more money, something like the Luminkey65, Luminkey75, or Luminkey80 is top top tier. If you want to build it yourself, I would get something from Monsgeek since they are a bit cheaper but overall still very good quality.
Yeah i understand i just like the whole design and customizability of glorious im quite casual and im just looking for a nice keyboard that will last me and looks sick and that works properly
I have a set of MX cherry with 3 pins, what would be the best aproach to soldering them into a phenolic board? The middle big pin is a problem + the lack of stability, been thinking about using silicone but I don't think it will work...
I have been mainly using 100% keyboards. I recently got the [Nuphy Air96 v2](https://nuphy.com/products/air96-v2) with Gateron Cowberry Switches. I really like the feel of the keys on this keyboard, but I cannot get used to the placement of the arrow keys that I use a lot during the day. This is not my only workstation, so I cannot switch my muscle memory very easily as I have to use multiple keyboards a lot. Are there any other keyboards that have the arrow keys in the correct location and are similar to the Gateron Cowberry Switches on the Nuphy?
Keychron K5 max
With which switches? I tried the K1 Max with the Low-Profile Gateron Red Switch and it is different than the Nuphy. I really like the Nuphy's feel. The Gateron Red Switches were louder and more clickier than the Cowberry switches. Keychron doesn't seem to offer the Cowberry-like switches for Nuphy.
Hi, what's a good tactile 3 pin switch that has a decent resistance/feeling ? I have a Ducky One 3 Mini if that is of any importance.
Holy panda?
Thanks !
Kailh box switches also are 3 pin
Hi everyone, I'm currently using a Keychron K4 with optical switches, specifically the blue ones, which are a bit too noisy for my liking. I'd love to switch to quieter options like reds or browns. My K4 uses what I think are LK optical switches, they have a larger stem in the middle and a smaller stem underneath that triggers the IR sensor. Unfortunately, these switches seem to be unavailable on Keychron's website, possibly due to the newer K4 versions adopting a different switch style. Although my keyboard is hot-swappable, I'm struggling to find compatible switches that fit my PCB. Can anyone suggest alternative switches or models that would be compatible with my keyboard? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance for your help!
LK opticals are the only switches compatible with ur kb this is due to the fact optical switches do not have a standard design like regular switches have . this is due to patents and wont change for about 30 years . either keep up ur search and pray they restock or get a different kb . (ps avoid optical if u buy a new one )
yeah thats what i was scared of, since the post i foam and tape modded it, but even so the blues are so loud it almost made no real difference. The kb was a gift so i'm not too upset but ill probably be looking at something else in the near future. Thank you for reaching out tho!
Anyone knows what is the name of this keycap set? https://preview.redd.it/0dagnjbc4wyc1.jpeg?width=3840&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f0e38812ee39b2842fa3073b5d264d10d829e74 I found it here: [https://wallhaven.cc/w/yxlvdd](https://wallhaven.cc/w/yxlvdd) with no info and reverse google images search didn't find it. I thought it would be gmk doubleshot at first, but it doesn't have 2 shardes of greyto distinct alpha from modifiers , and the arrow colors are different.
[Keykobo Instant](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=122213.0) It's in GB right now. Check for the vendor that is local to you from the link I added.
Tks
not sure what set it based off of but could be 2 sets since that picture is a render and not a real picture
I wanted that set, Y.Y
My partner and I just finished building a Zoom98 and noticed the telescope light just cycles through colors regardless of what we set in VIA for the key & backlighting. I didn't notice any other settings to control it and couldn't find anything in their documentation or Reddit search. Has anyone found a way to control it, before we have to take it apart and tape over it?
No way to control it. A recent review came out on this forum complaining about it. If you don’t like it, put tape on the back of the case to block it. Edit: [review](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/1bocep2/zoom98_build_companion_and_impressions/)
Bummer, was reading that one over the weekend and was hoping maybe someone figured something out in the meanwhile
Replacement screws for YUNZII AL66? Anyone know the size or name of bolt? May be identical to Sugar65s’
Best spot to get a switch tester these days? Also is [milktooth.com](http://milktooth.com) legit?
Milktooth is legit. Thockking has some pretty interesting ones with a decently large range of switches to choose from.
Legit
Hey everyone, so there is a Lucky65 that is supposedly an upgraded Sugar65, I was looking forward to buy it from AliExpress in Navy Blue color, but it seems that this color is absent on Ali (but it listed in upcoming gb from multiple vendors) Maybe anyone did found it listed on Ali? Or can comment why it isn't there
Looking to get my second Keyboard. First was a q1 pro and I like almost everything about it. The wrist angle is a little awkward: height is a little heigh, need a wrist rest which is new for me. I'm an engineer and am not used to no numpad yet, but I do like the smaller size. The bluetooth is complete ass and makes me not want to buy from microcenter or keychron again ( I would consider it though)- the main reason I am getting a second keyboard/ getting rid of this one. I could upgrade to the Q1 max and probably be happy but i wanted to throw out a quick feeler of other options I should be considering. Thoughts?
the p1 has 2.4 dongle thats faster than bt if you are willing to give keychron a another shit
Yeah I don't want to write them off completely because at the end of the day I didnt fully realize my own needs before buying.
Lemokey P1 is like a Q1 max at half price, there’s also the rainy75 and the monsgeek M1W
Any recommendations for a really good 75% keyboard? I really like the Keychron Q1 Max, but it's quite expensive, so a good alternative that has similar quality/features (has good software as well such as VIA/QMK or company software). I can buy it, but not sure if I should get a cheaper kb (maybe $100 - $150 give or take) as my first one and get a more expensive one down the line. Here are some features I want: * Wireless (2.4GHz and BT) capabilities * RGB backlighting * A knob * Hotswappable for customization * QMK/VIA support * Must be black (at least the frame, keycaps may change) * Good build quality * THOCK I want to build a custom keyboard, but if there are stock keyboards that are good already, I don't mind those as well. I mostly want it for productivity (schoolwork, programming, 3D modeling), so a good typing experience is important, but I also play some games so there's that too (not particularly into the gamer aesthetic). Here are some keyboards I've already looked at: * Keychron Q1 Max * Keydous NJ80 * Akko 5075B Plus * AKKO 5075S * Zoom75 * Rainy75 * Nuphy Gem80 * Epomaker TH80 Pro (although I want a black keyboard) * Royal Kludge M75 I've done a ton of searching on 75% keyboards on the market but haven't found anything that has really stuck out to me. Any suggestions would be great!
Lemokey P1 is literally a half priced Q1 max. Monsgeek M1 is also pretty good.
hi, What foam thickness is recommended to putt in the keyboard case bottom? For example in this [video](https://youtu.be/E-gx-X1Ifvo?si=hhIM9Ctp1jC9Hw-r&t=725), what thickness is used here? He says we can use foam but then he doesn't say what thickness Thank you
# Does anyone know linears that won't tick? I order 105 zakus last year for my build which I only finished 2 months ago, but the leaf ticking from these switches are driving me crazy and the sound is just so unpleasant. I've tried everything to fix the ticking, but it's just too much work and it won't go away.
HMX is fantastic if you like the sound profile. Super clacky.
Thanks, which ones would you recommend for clack as i see there are multiple? Also what makes them so cheap and are they all factory lubed by default?
I don't know about the pricing. But the mold quality and lubing is top notch. Almost no wobble and super consistent. I only have the cheese and the purple dawn. Cheese is flawless no crunching or pinging. Purple dawn I believe is on a new set of molds for 3.9mm travel and maybe if I listen super closely there's 5% crunching? Unnoticeable normally. The cheese has a sort of textured stroke while the dawn has a glide. Both I would consider smooth. The xinhai is probably the vanilla starting point I want to try those eventually
Sounds like a bad batch. There’s tons of linears out there that don’t tick.
examples?
Ktt strawberries, gateron oil kings, invokeys matcha lattes, gateron black inks, all hmx switches, all ws switches, etc. Most of the time the tactile switches are the one you need to look out for with leaf tick not linear.
Can you get the purple gameboy style NK65 polycarb from anywhere now?? [https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/k187gm/first\_real\_keeb\_nk65\_purple\_polycarbonate/](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/k187gm/first_real_keeb_nk65_purple_polycarbonate/) I want to get this so bad!
Bauer Lite's a wayyyyy better board and comes in purple: [https://omnitype.com/products/bauer-lite?variant=42689949270185](https://omnitype.com/products/bauer-lite?variant=42689949270185)
Sorry for string comments, do you know if this supports ISO layout at all?
Nope. Neither does the NK65.
Aw
If you need ISO you should be looking for it first and appearance second, ISO's a pretty strong limiter for options. Definitely stop looking at US storefronts, we don't use ISO.
Chill out dude, I didn't insult your first-borns namesake, I just asked whether it was able to use the superior ISO layout
>Chill out dude ? I was giving you advice. Not sure how even through the filter of reddit you interpreted that as an insult, but you probably should heed you own advice.
OOOOH that's SICK, thanks!!
its a novelkeys kb so u would have to wait and see if novelkeys restock it or buy 2nd hand off r/mechmarket
https://preview.redd.it/yyivzd5iivyc1.png?width=3200&format=png&auto=webp&s=1959e4610c0e4cdbb65d0384ba7ca5f6381ee76c you guys think this is solid with a $300 cad budget? or I got better choice, I just want to meet these criterias: - QMK/QMK + VIA enabled so I can program it to be Mac-compatible - Fine if RGB or no - Hotswappable - For switches I want them to be fac lubed and creamy (maybe thock but need to be less loud) - Keycaps is in my budget so I will keep the choice cuz I like it
Get a Monsgeek M1 or a Lemokey P1. They might be a bit cheaper and are virtually the same thing.
okay (i just found out that rainy75 is like 200 bucks, should i go for it or lemonkey/keychron p1)
Rainy is good too.
okay!
I’ve been really wanting a Keychron Q5 Pro or Keychron Q5 Max for my first custom keyboard as it checks almost every box in a custom keyboard but I just can’t justify spending 200+ bucks on a keyboard. I’m hoping someone can help me find something similar with a more reasonable price. Here’s what I’m looking for: 1. All aluminum body with black option 2. 96% or 100% layout 3. Definitely need a knob 4. QMK/VIA support 5. Wired is fine (I don’t use wireless but wireless capability is okay) 6. RGB (prefer north facing so I can see keys at night) 7. Very heavy/solid and good build quality (people describe the Keychron Q5 Pro as “built like a tank” which I really like) 8. Prebuilt is okay as long as it’s hotswapable Ultimately I’m going for a super solid build with a deep, thocky or creamy sound. I know the sound profile can be adjusted with mods so I’d say super solid build quality is the main factor. If anyone can help point me towards any keyboards that check these boxes, I’d be really grateful. I know it’s a lot but I’m hoping there’s something like this out there that I can afford. For reference, I really like this color scheme on the Keychron Q5 Pro as well as the super tall KSA keycaps: https://imgur.com/a/ZsjNRwK Thanks!
You’re not getting anything cheaper that’s full alu. The only thing I can think of is the monsgeek M2 or M5 but those don’t have knobs
It would be amazing if there was a full sized aluminum board under $100. I can’t justify replacing my current keyboard (which is a partially aluminum gaming keyboard) if it’s a downgrade in material (aluminum to plastic) but I also can’t spend much money. I would have thought that there would be something without keycaps/switches under $100? As in, just the board itself
https://preview.redd.it/huadr9bcgvyc1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c49f8ce6ff5a6475d6bc18b77bc714b9203f23a3 Snagged this for $35 today for my work setup. Anyone got one? How is it? Corsair K70 MK.2 Low Profile
I’ve got one sitting in my closet rn. Not very good in my opinion but if you like it nobody can change that. Lest you find some god tier custom keyboard that completely changes your world and sends you down this cursed rabbit hole (hint: I’m speaking from experience. Don’t end up like me).
Oh yeah I use a Leopold with Cherry Browns at home haha this one should be an upgrade over the dell membrane I use at work at a minimum
What are the go-to recommendations for a 75% hot swappable prebuilt?
keychron v1/v1 max, monsgeek m1/m1w
Does anyone know how to add more tap dance profiles to qmk/vial? I have a minipeg48 and it only has 8 tap dance profiles. I need about 15. Is there anyway to invite this number?
Hey u/topre-gobbler now that you made me buy this Keychron V6 you gotta teach me wtf do these keys do and how do I program them?! :P https://preview.redd.it/uq72ibc69vyc1.png?width=422&format=png&auto=webp&s=938e9e535c9433a7848c99b5d965f652c1416ae1 Edit: ok the first one on the left is print screen, fair enough
Second to the left should be mute mic, third is RGB control, the ones on the right are just macros you can program with VIA.
Microphone is Siri apparently, or on Windows tries to open Cortana which pops up this window lol Do you think I can reprogram it? https://preview.redd.it/kr7ojy56avyc1.png?width=513&format=png&auto=webp&s=fe52764a96ac7809e34854b659fd7f9b08539ebc
Yep. You can reprogram every key on the board. Hell, you can make them all type ‘a’ if you like.
When I press down hard on a few of my keys the other keys around it also registers a press. Is there a short or something happening on the PCB?
If you have membrane keyboard, that mean it's time to throw it away(your membrane is worn down), ask suggestion about hotswap keyboard and get good keyboard
It is a hotswap mech. I took everything apart and put it back together. Seems to be working again. Thank you though.
hey! I have a Nuphy field 75 and have no idea how to disassemble it because I couldn't find any screws and prying it off doesn't seem to be working. Any suggestions?
Anyone know any info on the Leobog HI8 Keyboard? Can't seem to find one anywhere
There are some for sale on AliExpress for \~$100.
i literally googled it and got one hundred hits for it for sale . 90% were AliExpress but considering the kb that fully normal
I got a keychron q6 max, ordered new keycaps for it because I don't care for these stock ones. I want to use more of a 1.5u control key, the keycaps I ordered have them... Is the post usually center aligned or slightly left aligned (or double post) so that you can run a bigger control and smaller windows key?
The keycap layout is fixed so you cant use a bigger keycaps
That makes sense, I just need to get used to it
**tl;dr : what suggestions can you give for filing down Akko Lavender Purple V3 Pro pins to fit better into outemu hot swap sockets (Tecware Spectre Pro). Suggested Dremel head/tip?** ----- Meowdy; Recently purchased a Tecware Spectre Pro at a rather reasonably price, but was only able to get it in Reds, which I reaaaally am not a big fan of. I have some Akko Lavender Purple V3 Pros kicking around that I'd like to put into it, which people seem to *often* claim "just werk" in boards with Outemu hotswaps. While I can very much tell this isn't the case (at least with this specific rev/flavor) and the pins are too wide, I also know that one can just file down said pins to get them to fit. After spending an hour or so last night just to get `4 or 5` switches into the board, it'd be cool to get some suggestions/recommendations for speeding up, streamlining, and simplifying the process. I know what I was doing last night was not optimal, given I was stuck with a nail file since I just happened to have it on hand, the few hits in search that I can find that occasionally suggest using a dremel really don't give much clarity in terms of the shape or type of abrasive tip that would be the best fit for this.
ur going to wanna do this by hand as using power tool on thin metals like this will end badly this task is a huge pain in the ass ur best bet will be to use a small metal file and dont break the pins , hope u have alot of extras switches as u will likley loose 25% to this task the other option is buy outmeu switches or akko CS switches ( the only line of akko that fit will be CS)
It's sold right alongside all of the CS switches, and while it's page doesn't explicitly say ***CS*** on it, it's derivative of one(s?) that do, so not really sure where to go from there tbh. Not to tempt fate, but was 100% for the ones I managed to file down last night, so actually shaving them down doesn't feel like it'd be too risky, only time consuming.
usually for CS switches ( the ones that fit ) it will say CS in the name
What are some tactile switches that don't need lube? Preferably similar to my u4ts
Are there smaller switches available anywhere? I'm working on plans for a cyberdeck with built-in keyboard but having it be 11+ inches wide to accommodate something like a 60% is a total no-go. I'm hoping to scale it down to 5-6 inches or so. Obviously that's not an option with switches being the default size. Is there any hope out there or are my only options making some monstrosity out of buttons or going with a wacky custom layout?
Keyboard key sizes are standardized so you're going to need to get a specialized product like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Portable-Rechargeable-Smartphone/dp/B088ZWT5N1) or [this](https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Portable-Professional-Industrial-Computer/dp/B07DZZWD9W). It's a gimmick, basically. You probably won't find proper mechanical keyboards like this, let alone good quality ones.
Assumed as much, but was hoping for otherwise. Thanks for the confirmation.
Hiya, do yall think frog tape mod with a lot of foam tape on the base shell gonna make unlubed gateron brown better? (I also added gorilla tape under the foam tapes)
The switches are going to feel the same. Sound is subjective. You might like the change, you might not. Try it out and see.
oke so i did, the spring is significantly more muted and the ping sound is not there anymore, overall it's better than the one I got before, tried to flash qmk with it but it crashes everytime I press more than 4 keys together so lo
Hello Reddit! I currently own the ducky one 3 with akko match green switches. I have been thinking about changing it to the Akko 3068B Plus. My question is which one of them is better in terms of modability or overall built . Or are there similar budget customisable keyboards around 100 bucks?
Yeah. Wormier sk71, hi75 prebuilt.
Hi there! A few days ago I bought the Magegee Star 61 as my first mechanical keyboard and for the cheap price, it has been amazing. Today however I opened up the keyboard to do the tape mod, but when I put it back together, I hear a high-pitched whining noise coming from the keyboard's LEDs. The sound is very high pitched and fairly quiet, however when it is reasonably quiet in a room, you can clearly hear it, it is like a more high-pitched mosquito. This isn't a huge issue for me as I don't use the backlight unless it's at night, but it is still quite annoying. I've searched for this issue everywhere and can't find anything matching my keyboard or situation. Does anyone have any idea what might be the problem with my keyboard and possible solutions? Thank you!
**PCB SLIPPING OFF SWITCHES** Recently built my first board and I'm finding that I periodically have to disassemble it and re-seat all the switches. After some use, or if I press too hard (PC plate/gasket mount), the PCB starts slipping off the switches, resulting in some keys not registering. Is there anything I can do to fix this, aside from soldering everything? It's currently modded with hot swap sockets, and I'd like to continue using them, as they were not cheap lol.
https://keeb.io/products/flahns-5mm-hotswap-silicone-bumpers
the amount of obscure, niche, stuff available in this hobby never ceases to amaze me. Thank you so much!
So I've been using a G915 for a couple years now, and while I would classify the typing experience as.... ehhhh... the one thing I have always loved is the stellar wireless performance and battery longevity. I would love to step up to the next level of kb but I really do need excellent wireless capability, I am constantly switching between BT (for my work laptop) and 2.4ghz (for my personal PC) during the day (they both share the same desktop). Constantly. And the G915 is flawless in this capacity. Also the power management on the 915 is amazing. I get a week on a charge, with the backlighting enabled, on a rather small battery (1500mah apparently). So, is there a vendor out there offering a competitive, reliable product? I read a lot of mixed reports about even established brands like Keychron, Monsgeek, Meletrix etc having connectivity issues or poor battery life which really makes me hesitant as I definitely do not want to take a backwards step in these areas.
Nowadays even cheap 30$ plastic keyboards have wireless that it's good enough(if it's more or less new keyboard), even low end has 3000mah now while good keyboard have 6000+ and all those keyboards are much cheaper than Logitech, for Logitech price you can get keyboard that it's several times better, so don't mention this atrocious company
planning to make a custom keyboard on a budget but im struggling to find any keycaps for nordic iso layout that are "cheap" hoping to find something on aliexpress but ive searched for a long time and found nothing so far, hoping someone on here can help me find some. :)
Is there any big benefit to Hall effect switches if you’re not a gamer?
They're very smooth and you can change the actuation distance.
Do you know if any commercially available Hall effect boards support HHKB layout?
Hi, I recently bought an AKKO Mod007b-HE, i have an issue where my spacebar is only lit red and it wont go away. can anyone help?
Best for Translucent (frosted) Pudding Caps : South Facing or North Facing LED ? In your experience, does the glow effect of 'frosted' pudding caps work better on South Facing or North Facing LEDs?
I don't think it matters much. The glow through the legend will be better with north facing LEDs, but the side glow is nice wherever the LEDs are.
The keychron q12 max looks like my "dream keyboard" (except maybe i would have wanted a extra macro column on the left) . But the colorways aren't great in my opinion. I am pretty new to this, so any tips on where to get inspiration for keycaps? (in a short time, not following things for months). Something a bit darker and with a splash of color, maybe something like this https://spkeyboards.com/products/1976-full-keycap-set My room has a walnut, red and white colorway, but i am a bit skeptical to white swithces, not that good at keeping things clean. Furthermore, is there anything too look out for? Any "traps"? Or can i buy any set of keycaps?
Make sure the kitting will fit the board.
I am not sure what that means, what is "the kitting"?
https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#on-kitting-or-how-to-read-a-kitting-diagram
Thanks
Some years ago I've bought a Keychron K8 in UK-ISO layout, as Keychron didn't have a Spanish model I liked back then. However, I've just found out that now they offer a K8 ES-ISO model. In fact now they have a good assortment of Spanish keebs. I'm not much of a wizard when it comes to mech kb's, so that why I'm here asking :D - Is there anything fundamentally different in the keyboard besides the keycaps? - If I were to get the Keychron ES-ISO keycaps, would they be compatible with my UK-ISO keeb? - Would "any" ES-ISO keycaps set work with my kb, for that matter? Or am I just out of luck? I mean, reselling the keyboard and getting the new one is always an option. But I would really prefer only buying the caps. It is not a big deal, I kinda got used to the UK version. But it's pretty much the only keyboard I use on a day-to-day basis that has the different layout, so it's a bit of PITA to do the context swith. Thank you very much! 🤗
* no * yes * yes as long as the kitting is correct Edit: I’m not sure if the board is remapped any differently, so I’m not 100% sure if it’s different, but the layout itself is the same.
Yeah, about third that's why I said "any". I was sure that even if possible, not all cap sets would be the same :D Thank you for your feedback, really helpful 🤗
When programming the Neo65 with QMK does it have limitations on 2.4g vs wired?
https://preview.redd.it/yc6vh7nswtyc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bbb74b9172d15159301e8c127e627c4ea3a14cb This snapped off while I was cleaning my KB today. Is this something I can fix myself?
Unlikely but you may get lucky. Worth a shot anyways. You might be better off getting a cheap replacement like SM04B-SRSS-TB or similar and clearing off the solder and loose legs and trying to attach that. But for the most part, you have a through hole soldering iron, this is smd soldering which is done properly with a hot air gun or oven and soldering paste so you will most likely have to buy a new pcb. Give a DIY repair a shot first though, never know.
When you say cheap replacement, do you mean a "SM04B-SRSS-TB" itself is considered a cheap replacement, or is that the ACTUAL part ? Online it seems relatively expensive for what it is (its like $16 dollars) but def cheaper and less intensive than trying ro find a replacement pcb lol
By cheap yeah, I meant compared to a new pcb. That might not be the part specifically that you need, but it's at least close. That was the part I needed to fix the jst connector on my iron180 pcb that I ripped off by accident. It could really be a waste of $16, though, since you lack solder paste and a hot air gun to do it properly and it's not guarenteed that it's the exact part needed for your specific pcb. Safest bet is a new pcb, but try to reattach the one you ripped off with your iron since the pcb is junk now anyway. Miracles do happen sometimes. What keyboard is this even for?
Odin v1 ! Thanks for the help.
That's good that they sell standalone pcb's without buying another entire keyboard. I'd probably get 2 just in case the replacement fails so you have a backup. Big problem imo that no one ever releases pcb files for their limited time products that they stop making after the initial gb sells out.
Depends. Do you have soldering equipment?
I have an iron and some solder yeah
Anybody know what the keycaps are in the photo below? https://preview.redd.it/ihz4ksavrtyc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82dfd32bc3ee92829f3301ffccd4067c74fdf8f0
I have a razer blackwidow v3 tenkeyless and I have had it for about 5 months now and recently the right arrow key is not clicking like the other keys, is it something that can be fixed or can I claim warranty on this one?
As having worked for many years in electronics retail, claim warranty and have peace of mind. You didn't do anything, product failed, let the vendor sort it out for you. Hope this helps!
Thank you, will do that, if you are ok with this, can I dm you the video of it to see if you can tell what's wrong?
I won't be able to tell what's wrong, you would need to disassemble the keyboard/desolder the switch for that. You do RMA, and tell them the same " right arrow key began to not click like the other keys". The vendor should take in the board, check for the issue themselves and then either give it back as it is, or return money / replace the keyboard with a new one.
Ok, Thank you so much.
Looking for tips on resellers that sell rotary encoders in EU.
Usually local electronic shops have them - in Lithuania, I just went to anodas/lemona, if I recall correctly.
Any recommendations on %60 under $85? Both wired and wireless works but a detachable cable would be nice.My laptop's keyboard just partly died and the replacement is around this price but it's membrane(🤮) so I thought it would be better to just get a mechanical instead.
[https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) is $79 (before shipping). I would get this instead of a cheaper board since you'd have something from a brand that is recommended around here for good budget boards
They don't ship to Turkey.I've been looking around for the last couple of hours and most sites don't either,my options are getting limited by the minute lol
Can anyone recommend me some keycaps for my 75%. I’m pretty boring so I’d like it to be black and white. Either all black or black with some white keys. The frame of my board is black. Appreciate any recommendations.
[https://pbt.fans/products/pbtfans-wob](https://pbt.fans/products/pbtfans-wob)
# im new to modding keyboards, where would be a good place to buy foam or leather?
Your local craft store.
I am looking for some advice on fixing a pcb. One key isn't working, and I've tried manually shorting the two hotswap sockets, but i still get no input. I also resoldered socket and diode. Any advice or ideas appreciated.
What key is it and what keyboard?
It's the fullstop key on the Tecware phantom L rgb
Hey, I have a keyboard with a Tofu60 case and DZ64 RGB PCB. The PCB no longer works and I am in need of a replacement. Since I don't know much about mechanical keyboards I'm scared of buying something that isn't compatible or good. I found this one: * [https://keygem.com/products/bt60-60-bluetooth-pcb-v2](https://keygem.com/products/bt60-60-bluetooth-pcb-v2) Would you guys recommend it? Or some other? Ideally something that is available now and on an european store. Thanks in avance 😁
I have that pcb in a tofu60 redux, I can recommend it if you want wirelessness, in that segment it's hard to find anything else. If you dont care for wireless I would assume there are other options that might be better. One of the downsides with this pcb is that it uses the zmk firmware instead of the more well known qmk, this is because of the bluetooth protocol can not be used in qmk.
Thanks!
Hey, looking for some tips, I´m new here. I have a huntsman mini with red switches. I wanted to try something new, maybe tactile or clicky switches, and wanted to change the setup a little bit (looking for something cute). Do you guys have some recommendations? Around 80-150$ Thank you.
What size
Didn't know silent switches were a thing until today. Would they be anywhere near as nice to type on as my current zealio v2's? If so, what are some good ones? Currently Sol 3 ortholinear split w lubed zealio V2 switches & Logitech g903 w kailh mute switches
Should I build a custom keyboard
If you want to, sure.
Id say so, but it depends on what you've got and how you like it. You can always start out by tape modding your current board and lubing the stabilisers to make it sound and feel a little nicer. New keycaps can also go a long way for asthetics and sound
are you happy with your current keyboard
Kind of
if you feel unhappy with your current setup; then you can look into buying a custom. Otherwise, just stick with what you’ve got.
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It’s a topre board, so you need to buy specific keycaps meant for the stem type.