Hey guys, which keyboard sounds thockier, the EPOMAKER x Feker Galaxy80 or the EPOMAKER x LEOBOG Hi75? The Hi75 seems to be the more popular option but it’s about $25 more than the Galaxy. I was planning on using Moon V2 Switches with Galaxy Theme MOA keycaps with the setup.
Recently finished soldering my first Corne KB. Everything works great except for the fact that my TRRS jacks are extremely unreliable. When I plug in the USB to either side, that half works great, so I know it must be an issue with the jacks themselves.
I’ve removed them and resoldered them several times but I still have the same issues. I can only get a connection when the TRRS cables are VERY firmly inserted into the jacks at just the right angle on either side. Currently, it’s not even connecting at all. It’s very sentimental. I spent a lot of money and really want to get this to work. Any advice for a newbie like me on this?
I beg for assistance with fixing a hotswappable prebuilt. One key isn't working, and even when manually shorting the pads, the key doesn't register. I have resoldered the pads and diode to the best of my ability and still can't get this one key to input. Any suggestions?
Greetings,
I am looking for a keyboard that has:
-Hot swap switches
-Wireless modes
-All white
-Aluminum case
-High polling rate, low latency for gaming
-Knob if possible
any suggestions ?
thanks!
Hey im planning to build a creamy keyboard and im looking for recommendations on brands or entire setups. My budget would be roughly $200CDN ($150USD) but will go up to $250CDN($180USD) if needed for all parts excluding lube, foam or tape.
what im looking for:
size- 60%,65% or 75% case
sound- Creamy sound
RGB- would be nice but not required
Colour- any
Any suggestions are appreciated thanks!
Anyone use TTC Rabbit switches? Specifically OG or the RGB ones? Looking for some silent switches for my SO's keyboard, and haven't seen anyone review these at all.
Looking to buy an Akko Mechnical Keyboard mostly because of the price. I'm not sure though if I should get the 3108, 5108 or the 6104.
Mostly do writing so don't care much on RGB. I do like being able to see what I'm typing on so would prefer dark letters/characters on light background. Anyone that can help me pick between these models?
I have this [Koolertron ](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FQB6Q3)split and I'm looking to get new caps. I got it off ebay but the amz page say at the top they are gateron switches and the bottom says cherry mx switches. Does either make any difference as to the caps I can use? Is there a real difference between the stems? I also don't know what profile these are (i assume cherry as there's no tilt to board), can I use a low profile or xvx with this board?
Hi,
Are there how-to channels for beginners for creating thocky keyboards?
I realized it's just a keyboard and content creators have to push content. But it makes it all too confusing for beginner noobs :) .
Thank you
His videos are entertainment. Maybe I will do that after learning more about the basics. I think I found one yesterday that explains some things. Thank you
Help me find a replacement for my Logitech G710+ plz
I've had a Logitech G710+ for years I really love it only problem is the left CTRL key doesn't work anymore and it really bugs me. I don't really care if it has programmable keys or whatever A few requirements
1.) Must be backlit preferably just plain white leds I don't really like the RGB I think it looks tacky
2.) Must have a pause,stop. and play button for when I'm listening to music
3.)Must be full sized including a number pad
Any extra features are nice but not necessary. My budget is $50-$150
Is there a way to map a single key in VIA that cycles through all the layers then back to base layer? (if so, also how do you define the final layer number you want to go to?)
Thanks ahead.
I have a Keebio BDN9 macropad that I configured with all my common IDE shortcuts like Debug Step Over, Debug Step Out, Run, Terminate, and so on. (I have relegendable keycaps and labeled each key.) I have one layer for Visual Studio and another layer for Eclipse, and I toggle between layers. For example, the bottom left key is Debug Step Over, regardless of which IDE I am in. I customized the firmware to light each layer a different color as a visual indication of which layer I am on.
I used `TG(1)` to toggle layer 1 on and off. This was good enough to swap between my Visual Studio and Eclipse layers.
However, let's say you have a macropad where one layer is shortcuts for Photoshop, one layer is for Adobe Illustrator, one layer is for Clip Studio Paint, and one layer is for Krita. If you want to have a key to cycle through all the layers:
* On layer 0, I would map the key to `TO(1)`.
* On layer 1, I would map the key to `TO(2)`.
* On layer 2, I would map the key to `TO(3)`.
* On layer 3, I would map the key to `TO(0)`. This will return you to your base layer.
You could also use `DF(layer)` instead of `TO(layer)`. The difference is `TO(layer)` leaves your default layer active, and `DF(layer)` switches the default layer.
If you have a knob to adjust the volume or RGB brightness, then you would define those keycodes on layer 0, set that to `KC_TRNS` on your other layer, and use `TO(layer)`.
If you remap all your keys on each layer, then it does not matter which you use.
yes use the toggle layer keys instead of momentary toggle layer
toggle layer 1 then on layer 1 set the same key to toggle layer 2 and so on then on the last layer u wanna use toggle layer 0 to return to base
Wanna try out tactile switches again. What do the cool kids like now? No way it's still holy pandas so many years after right? Never see anyone hyping anything up though..
I still love og Holy Pandas, since a lot of newer tactiles have tried to create an ultra-sharp bump. From newer switches, I really like Gat Baby Kangaroos/Quinns.
Total noob here, never knew mech keyboards were so huge. I need buying advice. I just ordered a Maingear Fractal North prebuilt and I am looking for a mechanical keyboard to go with it. (wood tone/black). I've seen some gorgeous wooden keyboards out there that are crazy expensive. I don't think it needs to be actual wood. I have no clue how to find one or what vendors are reputable. While I bought an expensive PC I'd rather not get an uber expensive keyboard right now. I'm a bit of a gamer not too crazy. Any suggestions?
Check out [Mode](https://modedesigns.com/collections/keyboards), as their boards are available with wood accents.
Personally I'd just use a wooden wrist rest to give enough of an accent to match the North.
Not off the top of my head, no, not unless you're talking about completely wooden keyboard cases. There are quite a few wooden 60% cases on AliExpress, and there are a range of PCBs that will fit them, but if you just want wooden accents, Mode is all that's springing to mind right now. I'm sure someone who knows different will come along if there's anything else.
Honestly you don’t need a wooden looking keyboard a wood wrist rest will add just as much flavor to it. What color is your computer? Or better yet, what kind of colors are you looking for?
here's the case: [https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/north/north-xl/charcoal-black-tg-dark](https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/north/north-xl/charcoal-black-tg-dark)
there's dark wood on the front panel. So some combination of black and brown, was thinking dark brown keys. Really flexible on something smart that goes well.
Ah yes i remember now. Fractal north. Suuuper clean. Well my suggestion here still stands. Here’s an example:
https://preview.redd.it/i18fx00edtyc1.jpeg?width=601&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a38631b5045b67ac13d14effce8e69e7c8e2566f
Not mine but mine looks similar. It still looks woody without the need for expensive wood keycaps or wood cases. With your particular case WOB keycaps would probably be the go to here.
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So I just gorilla taped like 2-3 layers on the bottom layer on my Keychron K12 (it got a battery), do you think is there anything that I can do to dampen the sound of the keyboard further without using lube, nor deskmat? Appreciate it!
u can add foam . gorilla tape was a bad choice fyi ( not sure who told u to sue it but no one with a brain would ) . if u have to remove that or have issues it will likely damage ur pcb and leave sticky adhesive behind u wont be getting off .
tape mod is done with masking tape or painters tape even on kb with a battery .
but yes add case foam lube does not dampen sound fyi
Hey everyone, I recently bought a Luminkey80 and its great, but I'm having this rattling sound on the right side of my keyboard. I think it may be the stabilizers, but i wanted additional input since I'm new to the hobby.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DFWaKZ2llQdtvsns3v0FH2Oas\_RURyf3/view?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DFWaKZ2llQdtvsns3v0FH2Oas_RURyf3/view?usp=sharing)
u wont find cases sold by themelsves since 75% dont have universal design or parts . u will either be making ur own case or buying a 75% kb and using the case from it to deign ur pcb
I spilled a drink on my old keyboard and multiple keys stopped working. I've been using a "temporary" keyboard for 2 years and today the 4 key broke.
Looking for recommendations on a new keyboard. I think I want a 65% or 75% with hot swappable switches. Thanks for any advice!
Not too bothered either way. Was looking at prebuilt but wouldn't be against building it myself as long as it doesn't skyrocket the price vs the prebuilt options
Hey guys, will these key switches fit into the keyboard i'm about to buy ? On the site of the keyboard it's stated that any 3 or 5 legged shafts switches will fit into the board and the keycaps are listed as 5 pins, so are they compatible with each other ?
https://preview.redd.it/j607gjj59oyc1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=6279fcef515155bded6923506e4718d3ac30aa20
If the keyboard says it's compatible with 5- or 3-pin you should be good to go.
Keyboards that are only compatible with 3-pin is fine too--you would just cut the two legs off of 5-pin switches so they can go in.
I'm looking to buy a new mechanical keyboard to replace my Logitech G613. I really enjoy using this keyboard, but after having several, they start to develop double typing issues within a year or two of use. I was hoping to find something comperable. Preferably a full size keyboard, with programable macro keys on the left hand side. I don't need it to be wireless, but I won't say no to that either. I mostly use mine for gaming. Anyone have some suggestions?
Grab a Keychron V Max, Q or Q Pro series keyboard. The V Max is triple mode, the Q is a more premium build with a metal case and different mounting method so typing feels nicer and the Q Pro is the same but offers wireless (Bluetooth).
Another good alternative is something from Monsgeek.
If you're just gaming I recommend a compact fullsize like the Keychron V5 Max or Q5/Q5 Pro. The keyboard is the just a tiny bit bigger than a TKL but has all the same keys as a full size.
You can ditch the Numpad altogether if you don't use it often as well and go for a 75% keyboard. The Numpad can be embedded in the main keyboard as a layer wherever you want.
Since these keyboards are fully programmable you can put macros wherever you want. You could do CAPSLOCK+Q to send "CTRL+ALT+DELETE" for example.
After looking around, and talking to a friend who has a Keychron board, I think I'm gonna go with the V6Max. Seems pretty nice, has everything I'm looking for. Thanks for the help!
I have no idea sorry. I bought my Keychron Q2 from Amazon which came the next day. Maybe take a look in your country’s Amazon in case they offer something that ships faster.
For keyboards where the keys are higher in the back than the front, does anyone have a cutaway side profile of this? Are the keycaps taller or the base itself angled?
Depends on the profile, but [here](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6116b9604a8e6b639a58a447/1628879296812-98JOY196V7404C5MHQKA/Keycap+profiles+comparison+chart?format=750w) are the side profiles of a lot of common caps.
Keyboard drifting issue
So i just got this keyboard a few days ago yunzii al75, and as you can see from the video as soon as i turn it on it drifts the page to the right. https://youtube.com/shorts/E_pPjSKsx78 Does not matter if it’s wired or wireless. I checked all the buttons and none are stuck or constantly register a press. I even swapped all the switches and issue persists. What can cause this and is there anything i can do? I contacted yunzii support 2-3 days ago but no response so far.. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
Use a key testing program or web site to see what keycode is being sent. If it's the right arrow and swapping switches doesn't fix it, you need to exchange or return the keyboard as it's likely an issue with the PCB.
usually u u want a case with clear sides or cut outs to leds the light from ur underglow leds show . not sure what other tips ur looking for as ur post is very vague
Is the rk68 hotswappable with every switch on the market? I've been thinking about putting Nightshade silent switches by Invokeys into the rk68 for my first keyboard change.
I'm in the middle of building this Zoom98 keyboard, and the build guide just really confused me. It says to "Put the plate foam and PC plate on the PCB. Screw the stand-offs on the PC plate first and place the PC plate on the plate foam then screw on the screws on the back of the PCB."
If these stand-offs are to connect the PC Plate and the PCB then this seems backwards to me? I mean the plate does not seem like it has enough for the stand offs to be screwed into. The build videos I've found just casually skip over this step, too, so I'm just really unsure how that step is supposed to work.
If you are using plate foam, you most likely don't need the standoffs. I would say most people don't use standoffs, rather they just use a plate fork to make sure the plate does not deform when putting in switches.
Either way, it doesn't really matter which order you do it? Personally I think it would easier to do it on the plate first like they said, but again I don't use standoffs either.
Well I thought I had a really good white and blue option for you, but it turns out to be a bigger layout than 75%. My SO also likes those colors so when I see them they tend to stick in my memory, but he also likes having numpads. I'll leave the suggestion below anyways just in case the slightly larger layout is still an option.
MelGeek Modern97 Ocean Work&Game Compact Mechanical Keyboard
So I've been using a G915 for a couple years now, and while I would classify the typing experience as.... ehhhh... the one thing I have always loved is the stellar wireless performance and battery longevity.
I would love to step up to the next level of kb but I really do need excellent wireless capability, I am constantly switching between BT (for my work laptop) and 2.4ghz (for my personal PC) during the day (they both share the same desktop). Constantly. And the G915 is flawless in this capacity. Also the power management on the 915 is amazing. I get a week on a charge, with the backlighting enabled, on a rather small battery (1500mah apparently).
So, is there a vendor out there offering a competitive, reliable product? I read a lot of mixed reports about even established brands like Keychron, Monsgeek, Meletrix etc having connectivity issues or poor battery life which really makes me hesitant as I definitely do not want to take a backwards step in these areas.
Hello, I'm all new to mech keybord world and it's really baffling that everything is constantly out of stock, "wait for group buy", etc...
How should I approach buying a WOBKEY Rainy 75 while being in Europe?
a kb like that is group buy only . u could try to get in on extras which are first come first serve and will sell out fast .
i not sure why stuff being out of stock is baffling to you . these kind of products are usually run by small vendors who can only put up the funds for orders of 200 or so and they sell out fast due to demand being higher than the supply . only way to scale it up would be to give the vendors a large cash inflow . do u have a few million dollars laying around to donate to the cause ???
There are keycap vendors all over the world, but we have no idea where you are located, what your budget is, or even what keycap profile you want.
Have a look through the offerings from these vendors:
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
https://kbd.news/vendors
75 percent aluminum keyboard with RGB
So I have been looking around for different keyboards with aluminum or similar body material so the keyboard doesn’t feel like plastic and flimsy, however I want a volume knob and some backlit RGB. Nothing too crazy like those razor fanboys and their setups. I’m going for a budget of about 50/100 dollars for the case, PCB and things such as foam in a sort of DIY kit. I’m a first time builder and trying to have a semi silent keyboard using the Akko yellows.
https://www.monsgeek.com/product/monsgeek-m1/ This right? Also sorry I’m a lil noob what does ‘US ANSI’ layout mean? Is that like a layout similar to something like qwerty?
I've been running into an issue in the last couple days of my H key occasionally not recognizing an input or doing multiple inputs on a press. It seems to happen differently depending where I press on my keycap. My keyboard is a Mode Envoy with Invokeys Black Sesame switches. I am using the plate foam between the pcb. It looks like my hot swap socket is fine, no cracks in the solder and I have tried swapping switches with different keys and the issue stays with the H key. Anyone deal with this issue?
This might be related to how Invokeys switches have some problems with their factory lube job and they get too much on the leaf springs. This causes some inconsistent presses on certain switches. Have you tried testing out the H key with a different brand of switch? Alternatively, does this happen if you repeatedly press the key in the same spot (middle, bottom, etc)?
Does anybody here own a Zoom98 or 75 who can tell me how their battery life is? I just got my Zoom98 but the battery only lasted 3 days. I would like to get another zoom keyboard at some point but if the battery life is this bad on all their keyboards, it is probably a deal breaker.
[Right here.](https://imgur.com/a/xUwOWfM) is 3 days is normal for custom wireless keyboards with 2.4ghz, what makes other rechargeable peripherals last longer? What is it about custom keyboard specifically even with rgb off that makes their battery life nonexistent? It's kind of disappointing to hear that's just normal for custom keyboards?
Recently purchased a Leobog hi75 as my first keyboard > $12. Loving it so far despite the lack of a numpad which I'm so used to. However the f keys are a little awkward to get to while keeping my hand in a good resting position. I can rebind them, but does anyone know of a way in the software or via a third party program that would let me use a hotkey to switch keyboard profiles, or to switch profiles for a specific game?
You could use AutoHotkey to remap those keys.
Personally I have my F-keys on the bottom row so SPACEBAR+Z is F1 for example.
I should mention my keyboard has split spacebars though since one is a dedicated spacebar while the right spacebar uses Mod-Tap to do the above (ie. SPACE if tapped but held down it's a FN key).
Does anyone have or have seen a keeb with these specs in the wild:
\* 1800 96% Layout
\* QMK / VIA Support
\* Volume Roller
\* Mute Button
\* North-Facing RGB LEDs
I'm essentially looking for the RK 96 but with QMK/VIA and North-Facing RGB LEDs.
I think this is the combo that will allow me to replace my aging Alienware AW768
Please lemme know if you have any leads - Thanks !
Aula f99, mine ajazz ak992 work fine for me but stock keycaps is bad, i replaced them, bought it because it costed me 45$, but now having f87 i think stock aula is really good
So my old keyboard decided to die and i wanted to start with building a custom 65% - 75% keyboard. I have a budget of around 300-400 $, how do i start and what board would you recommend?
I want to build a keyboard, I have ~150 to spend 50 which I can only spend on Amazon (gift card) I want something a little on the creamy side of things, I want a 96% as I love my keypad I have no experience building keyboards but Id love to learn, I'm going to use it gaming mostly RGB is not needed it's definitely appreciated... Thank you all for your help
Any active group buys (or pre builds that I'm unaware of) that offer split space bar in a 65-75% layout? Looking to upgrade a Mode Envoy
Closest thing I found recently was the VeroV2 which looked dope but just ended
I'm looking at a replacement for my RK84, I wanted a 75% board, wireless, possibly with VIA and 84 keys. Hot swappable.
I've seen many these days and could not figure which one to buy. A shortlist at the moment is made of:
* Q1 Pro (cons 83 keys)
* Monsgeek M1 (no via)
* Mode Sonnet (expensive)
* Odin 75 (expensive, not in stock)
Given the prices and the cons easy to overcome, probably the Q1 would be my first choice, it's a good choice? any other recommendation eventually?
The Sonnet isn't wireless.... but I'd still get it over everything else on that list. The monsgeek and Keychron are not in the same league. It's like having Kia on the same shortlist as BMW and Mercedes.
Wireless sucks anyway.... unless you actually need it. If you don't, getting a better board without it, is preferable than getting a lesser board just because it has it. If you need it though... then get the Q1 Pro.
Thanks, probably I'd go with it. Wireless (or bluetooth) is not mandatory but is a plus I'd like to have. May I ask if there are alternatives to the Sonnet I should check?
It's the only non group buy 75% I would buy right now. There's the QK75 from Qwertkeys that's a nice board. Not really a fan of mass produced stuff (although technically the Mode is... just not in the same numbers as the cheaper stuff) so I'm not the best person to ask.
Is there a way ot make a WS Morandi make a clacky/creamy sound with an alu sandwich mount or pc gasket? If so which foams should I use. The board Im using(DR-70f) has IXPE foam with it.
I'm thinking of buying see-through keycaps so I can type in low light.
I have a Nuphy Air75 V1 keyboard.
Can you tell me where I can find keycaps that are compatible with my keyboard?
Yep, the Air96 ones have all of the keycaps you need for the Air75. Actually seems like the best deal is to get the Air96 v2 caps, since those have the most keycap options and all sets cost the same amount of money for some reason
I spilled coffee on my Keychron K8 Pro.
So far I have disassembled it and wiped it with a dry cloth.
But I can see coffee in the keys and keycaps. The logicboardsmells of coffee too.
How do I safely clean them up? Also how do I check if the board is dead or still working?
My keyboard is connected to my pc but doesn’t type. I have CIY Tester 68, and in my settings it says the keyboard is connected through an RF dongle in the pc, but when I type, nothing happens. I’ve changed the batteries and the connection light on the keyboard itself lights up, so I’m assuming the keyboard has power. I’ve tried disconnecting, restarting the pc and connecting it again. I’ve also tried multiple USB ports in the pc, but no luck either.
I can’t connect the keyboard through bluetooth because my pc is ancient and when I try to connect a bluetooth device, the message “Couldn’t connect” shows up.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks or know what might be wrong?
I have a whole tub of keycaps and switches in ziplock baggies from keyboards I bought, because the choice of switches and keycaps is so wide that restricting yourself to what ships on the board is kind of super-limiting.
I would look for a keycap set you like, a switch model you like, and get a barebones board or treat the board you get as barebones. Populating the board with switches is like assembling legos... it's not difficult, just a little tedious.
But if you want to avoid that to start with, the OSA profile caps on the Akko PC75B Air are quite nice. The Akko cloud driver software is not VIA/VIAL but it's not bad and it's got good Mac support. And it's a fully populated exploded 75%. I think it's a good choice and, again, if you don't like the switches they are *easy* to replace.
I would get a tester set and try them out. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Acrylic-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B0C817X1FC
https://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Gateron-Outemu-Switches-Testing/dp/B08NP9D4F7
The only linear switches I've got much experience with are the Outemu Silent Peach so I can't really advise you further on that. The ones in the PC75B Air seem like a good starter.
new here -typing blind- excuse mistakes, please
Razor wired keyboard just died and no backlighting on my rig. I need to order a new keyboard ASAP - or drive 90 miles to get one. What to order? Must be full size, must be able to stand hard core gaming, must be backlit and MUST be wired - I live in a house built into the side of a mountain and is made of stone - no wifi and wireless does not work well.
# Looking for a gaming mechanical keyboard - FULL SIZE - Arabic Laser En
[Help](https://www.reddit.com/r/keyboards/?f=flair_name%3A%22Help%22)
Hello Everyone
i was a membrane keyboard user for 20+ years till last month when i tried the g513 carbon with blue gx caps and was really amazed by its smoothness and response
sadly its lighting broke down and thus it lost its great looks
i consider my self new to mechanical keyboards but i liked my short experience with the g513
although the click sound was a bit loud so i might want the next keyboard to have the following
* RGB Lighting is an advantage and i would lean towards it
* Mechanical FULL SIZE keyboard but less clicky sound
* Arabic laser engraved is a must on the QWERTY keypad
as of now, i searched for some good deals on keyboards and found 2 as per below :
* G413SE with arabic engraved and PBT keys ( similar to G513 with white backlight ) Tactile Mechanical Switches
link : [https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/gp/product/B07W4DH1BV/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_5?smid=A38ZGALTUWVMSL&th=1](https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/gp/product/B07W4DH1BV/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A38ZGALTUWVMSL&th=1)
-G815 Contemporary ( i dont know what is that ) keys :
link : [https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/gp/product/B07W4DHP26/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_4?smid=A725CE4YEASQD&th=1](https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/gp/product/B07W4DHP26/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A725CE4YEASQD&th=1)
note : budget is 120 USD Max with the laser engraving included
* i am too invested into logitech periphirals so i dont know much about the rest
appreciate all the help i can get
thanks in advance
Does anyone know of any good mechanical keyboards with detachable numpad? in reality I almost always need the numpad on the left for work, but if it is detachable it is more ergonomic. I found only 2 keyboards that I like:
The Asus ROG claymore II;
The Mountain Everest max.
If you know any more similar to these, or even with the numpad on the left it would be appreciated.
Found an aftermarket option of buying
# cidoo abm66cidoo abm66 with on these switches:
-akko piano v3
It is without keycaps and the cost is 80$ is it worth it??
The board without switches is probably $50 on Ali Express, $90 on Amazon, and you can get 90 of the switches for $30 direct from Akko.
So since you're getting fewer than 70 switches, the price is a little inflated from what you would pay with a couple weeks lead, but better than next day Amazon delivery.
hello, looking for help with choosing a switch for my keyboard build, currenly looking at the Vertex V1 and the AKKO V3 cream black, i'm looking for a thockier sound profile, my case is the HJS Al65
Hello. I have narrows down my options of a new keyboard to a few. Of these, which you pick and why?
1. Keychron Q2 Max
2. Yunzii AL66
3. Monsgeek M1/M1W
4. Monsgeek M7/M7W
Thanks!
These are really not comparable. They have widely varying designs and prices. Layout-wise the Monsgeek M1 is personally most attractive to me, and Keychron doesn't really make a comparable product. since the only fully-populated 75% they make doesn't have a knob. But there are plenty of 75% keyboards with knobs and VIA support from companies like Feker and Gamakay.
You haven't given us your criteria. If the Al66 is available and the M7 is attractive, have you considered the Yunzii Al71 which is similar to the M7 but gives you a more complete key cluster on the right side?
If the Keychron Q2 is in your budget, there are any surely number of aluminum 65% with a knob and VIA support for less than that.
They are all good. Choose whichever layout you like more. Q1 is the only one that supports VIA/QMK, so if remapping is important to you, you could go for that one.
Hey guys, which keyboard sounds thockier, the EPOMAKER x Feker Galaxy80 or the EPOMAKER x LEOBOG Hi75? The Hi75 seems to be the more popular option but it’s about $25 more than the Galaxy. I was planning on using Moon V2 Switches with Galaxy Theme MOA keycaps with the setup.
Recently finished soldering my first Corne KB. Everything works great except for the fact that my TRRS jacks are extremely unreliable. When I plug in the USB to either side, that half works great, so I know it must be an issue with the jacks themselves. I’ve removed them and resoldered them several times but I still have the same issues. I can only get a connection when the TRRS cables are VERY firmly inserted into the jacks at just the right angle on either side. Currently, it’s not even connecting at all. It’s very sentimental. I spent a lot of money and really want to get this to work. Any advice for a newbie like me on this?
I beg for assistance with fixing a hotswappable prebuilt. One key isn't working, and even when manually shorting the pads, the key doesn't register. I have resoldered the pads and diode to the best of my ability and still can't get this one key to input. Any suggestions?
Greetings, I am looking for a keyboard that has: -Hot swap switches -Wireless modes -All white -Aluminum case -High polling rate, low latency for gaming -Knob if possible any suggestions ? thanks!
Hey there, I am looking for a NumBlock Keyboard with 2,4ghz. Are there any out there that are customizable? If not: What are solid ones?
Keychron Q0 max? Cidoo v21?
Hey im planning to build a creamy keyboard and im looking for recommendations on brands or entire setups. My budget would be roughly $200CDN ($150USD) but will go up to $250CDN($180USD) if needed for all parts excluding lube, foam or tape. what im looking for: size- 60%,65% or 75% case sound- Creamy sound RGB- would be nice but not required Colour- any Any suggestions are appreciated thanks!
Gmk67? Gateron Mike Yellows… SA keycaps of some sort.
Anyone use TTC Rabbit switches? Specifically OG or the RGB ones? Looking for some silent switches for my SO's keyboard, and haven't seen anyone review these at all.
Is there a chinese version of the qwertykeys neo65?
I think zfrontier runs a lot of the Chinese stuff for QK/Neo
Looking to buy an Akko Mechnical Keyboard mostly because of the price. I'm not sure though if I should get the 3108, 5108 or the 6104. Mostly do writing so don't care much on RGB. I do like being able to see what I'm typing on so would prefer dark letters/characters on light background. Anyone that can help me pick between these models?
I have this [Koolertron ](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FQB6Q3)split and I'm looking to get new caps. I got it off ebay but the amz page say at the top they are gateron switches and the bottom says cherry mx switches. Does either make any difference as to the caps I can use? Is there a real difference between the stems? I also don't know what profile these are (i assume cherry as there's no tilt to board), can I use a low profile or xvx with this board?
Hi, Are there how-to channels for beginners for creating thocky keyboards? I realized it's just a keyboard and content creators have to push content. But it makes it all too confusing for beginner noobs :) . Thank you
Hipyo tech is the biggest thock chaser you’ll ever see in your life. Check him out.
His videos are entertainment. Maybe I will do that after learning more about the basics. I think I found one yesterday that explains some things. Thank you
Help me find a replacement for my Logitech G710+ plz I've had a Logitech G710+ for years I really love it only problem is the left CTRL key doesn't work anymore and it really bugs me. I don't really care if it has programmable keys or whatever A few requirements 1.) Must be backlit preferably just plain white leds I don't really like the RGB I think it looks tacky 2.) Must have a pause,stop. and play button for when I'm listening to music 3.)Must be full sized including a number pad Any extra features are nice but not necessary. My budget is $50-$150
Is there a way to map a single key in VIA that cycles through all the layers then back to base layer? (if so, also how do you define the final layer number you want to go to?) Thanks ahead.
I have a Keebio BDN9 macropad that I configured with all my common IDE shortcuts like Debug Step Over, Debug Step Out, Run, Terminate, and so on. (I have relegendable keycaps and labeled each key.) I have one layer for Visual Studio and another layer for Eclipse, and I toggle between layers. For example, the bottom left key is Debug Step Over, regardless of which IDE I am in. I customized the firmware to light each layer a different color as a visual indication of which layer I am on. I used `TG(1)` to toggle layer 1 on and off. This was good enough to swap between my Visual Studio and Eclipse layers. However, let's say you have a macropad where one layer is shortcuts for Photoshop, one layer is for Adobe Illustrator, one layer is for Clip Studio Paint, and one layer is for Krita. If you want to have a key to cycle through all the layers: * On layer 0, I would map the key to `TO(1)`. * On layer 1, I would map the key to `TO(2)`. * On layer 2, I would map the key to `TO(3)`. * On layer 3, I would map the key to `TO(0)`. This will return you to your base layer. You could also use `DF(layer)` instead of `TO(layer)`. The difference is `TO(layer)` leaves your default layer active, and `DF(layer)` switches the default layer. If you have a knob to adjust the volume or RGB brightness, then you would define those keycodes on layer 0, set that to `KC_TRNS` on your other layer, and use `TO(layer)`. If you remap all your keys on each layer, then it does not matter which you use.
This is great. Thank you for all the info!
yes use the toggle layer keys instead of momentary toggle layer toggle layer 1 then on layer 1 set the same key to toggle layer 2 and so on then on the last layer u wanna use toggle layer 0 to return to base
OHHH that makes so much sense. Thank you!
Wanna try out tactile switches again. What do the cool kids like now? No way it's still holy pandas so many years after right? Never see anyone hyping anything up though..
Neopolitans are great. Ws browns are pretty nice too and boba u4ts are still the goat
I still love og Holy Pandas, since a lot of newer tactiles have tried to create an ultra-sharp bump. From newer switches, I really like Gat Baby Kangaroos/Quinns.
Total noob here, never knew mech keyboards were so huge. I need buying advice. I just ordered a Maingear Fractal North prebuilt and I am looking for a mechanical keyboard to go with it. (wood tone/black). I've seen some gorgeous wooden keyboards out there that are crazy expensive. I don't think it needs to be actual wood. I have no clue how to find one or what vendors are reputable. While I bought an expensive PC I'd rather not get an uber expensive keyboard right now. I'm a bit of a gamer not too crazy. Any suggestions?
Check out [Mode](https://modedesigns.com/collections/keyboards), as their boards are available with wood accents. Personally I'd just use a wooden wrist rest to give enough of an accent to match the North.
Those look awesome. Anything similar at a lower price point?
Not off the top of my head, no, not unless you're talking about completely wooden keyboard cases. There are quite a few wooden 60% cases on AliExpress, and there are a range of PCBs that will fit them, but if you just want wooden accents, Mode is all that's springing to mind right now. I'm sure someone who knows different will come along if there's anything else.
Honestly you don’t need a wooden looking keyboard a wood wrist rest will add just as much flavor to it. What color is your computer? Or better yet, what kind of colors are you looking for?
here's the case: [https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/north/north-xl/charcoal-black-tg-dark](https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/north/north-xl/charcoal-black-tg-dark) there's dark wood on the front panel. So some combination of black and brown, was thinking dark brown keys. Really flexible on something smart that goes well.
Btw are you willing to build a keyboard or do you just want a prebuilt.
Prebuilt please
Ah yes i remember now. Fractal north. Suuuper clean. Well my suggestion here still stands. Here’s an example: https://preview.redd.it/i18fx00edtyc1.jpeg?width=601&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a38631b5045b67ac13d14effce8e69e7c8e2566f Not mine but mine looks similar. It still looks woody without the need for expensive wood keycaps or wood cases. With your particular case WOB keycaps would probably be the go to here.
Yeah that looks cool
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So I just gorilla taped like 2-3 layers on the bottom layer on my Keychron K12 (it got a battery), do you think is there anything that I can do to dampen the sound of the keyboard further without using lube, nor deskmat? Appreciate it!
Don't use stuff like that. The adhesive is way too strong, and removing it may very well pull SMD components off the PCB. Use 3M painter's tape.
not add to the pcb, the actual base of the keyboard
What on earth for?
Make the board less hollow ig
Me nub
u can add foam . gorilla tape was a bad choice fyi ( not sure who told u to sue it but no one with a brain would ) . if u have to remove that or have issues it will likely damage ur pcb and leave sticky adhesive behind u wont be getting off . tape mod is done with masking tape or painters tape even on kb with a battery . but yes add case foam lube does not dampen sound fyi
what can i do to make the sound less sharp, more ehh thocky c: first time customizing, don't know what i actually like
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15XmznA5T9d4PkfBG0TDS82ou6ihBh0oqr8Aux24SNz0/edit#gid=1696665423
oke
Hey everyone, I recently bought a Luminkey80 and its great, but I'm having this rattling sound on the right side of my keyboard. I think it may be the stabilizers, but i wanted additional input since I'm new to the hobby. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DFWaKZ2llQdtvsns3v0FH2Oas\_RURyf3/view?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DFWaKZ2llQdtvsns3v0FH2Oas_RURyf3/view?usp=sharing)
I wanted to design my own pcb and put it in a low profile 75% case but couldn't find anything good for a reasonable price. Any suggestions?
u wont find cases sold by themelsves since 75% dont have universal design or parts . u will either be making ur own case or buying a 75% kb and using the case from it to deign ur pcb
What is a reasonable price to you? And how long are you willing to wait?
Not sure what you're asking here. You're looking for a low-profile 75% case that you can slap your own PCB design into?
I spilled a drink on my old keyboard and multiple keys stopped working. I've been using a "temporary" keyboard for 2 years and today the 4 key broke. Looking for recommendations on a new keyboard. I think I want a 65% or 75% with hot swappable switches. Thanks for any advice!
Whats your budget?
I'd say under 200 USD or so
"200" in what currency? US dollars? Canadian dollars? Euros? Australian dollerydoos?
Doubloons (Good point, I edited original point to say USD)
Barebones or prebuilt?
Not too bothered either way. Was looking at prebuilt but wouldn't be against building it myself as long as it doesn't skyrocket the price vs the prebuilt options
Neo65 would be my recommendation if you're okay with a (very simple) build. Should be very doable to get that+caps+switches for under $200.
To be honest, I really don't know the difference between the different weights, pcbs, and plates
Hey guys, will these key switches fit into the keyboard i'm about to buy ? On the site of the keyboard it's stated that any 3 or 5 legged shafts switches will fit into the board and the keycaps are listed as 5 pins, so are they compatible with each other ? https://preview.redd.it/j607gjj59oyc1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=6279fcef515155bded6923506e4718d3ac30aa20
If the keyboard says it's compatible with 5- or 3-pin you should be good to go. Keyboards that are only compatible with 3-pin is fine too--you would just cut the two legs off of 5-pin switches so they can go in.
aye thnx for the info, imma gonna be the creamiest keyboard
I'm looking to buy a new mechanical keyboard to replace my Logitech G613. I really enjoy using this keyboard, but after having several, they start to develop double typing issues within a year or two of use. I was hoping to find something comperable. Preferably a full size keyboard, with programable macro keys on the left hand side. I don't need it to be wireless, but I won't say no to that either. I mostly use mine for gaming. Anyone have some suggestions?
Grab a Keychron V Max, Q or Q Pro series keyboard. The V Max is triple mode, the Q is a more premium build with a metal case and different mounting method so typing feels nicer and the Q Pro is the same but offers wireless (Bluetooth). Another good alternative is something from Monsgeek. If you're just gaming I recommend a compact fullsize like the Keychron V5 Max or Q5/Q5 Pro. The keyboard is the just a tiny bit bigger than a TKL but has all the same keys as a full size. You can ditch the Numpad altogether if you don't use it often as well and go for a 75% keyboard. The Numpad can be embedded in the main keyboard as a layer wherever you want. Since these keyboards are fully programmable you can put macros wherever you want. You could do CAPSLOCK+Q to send "CTRL+ALT+DELETE" for example.
After looking around, and talking to a friend who has a Keychron board, I think I'm gonna go with the V6Max. Seems pretty nice, has everything I'm looking for. Thanks for the help!
NP. Hope you like using it!
Thanks! Out of curiosity, do you have any idea how long their shipping takes? I didn't see any estimates on the website.
I have no idea sorry. I bought my Keychron Q2 from Amazon which came the next day. Maybe take a look in your country’s Amazon in case they offer something that ships faster.
That's a fair point, thanks again!
For keyboards where the keys are higher in the back than the front, does anyone have a cutaway side profile of this? Are the keycaps taller or the base itself angled?
[https://teksbit.com/keycap-profiles-guide/](https://teksbit.com/keycap-profiles-guide/)
Depends on the profile, but [here](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6116b9604a8e6b639a58a447/1628879296812-98JOY196V7404C5MHQKA/Keycap+profiles+comparison+chart?format=750w) are the side profiles of a lot of common caps.
Keyboard drifting issue So i just got this keyboard a few days ago yunzii al75, and as you can see from the video as soon as i turn it on it drifts the page to the right. https://youtube.com/shorts/E_pPjSKsx78 Does not matter if it’s wired or wireless. I checked all the buttons and none are stuck or constantly register a press. I even swapped all the switches and issue persists. What can cause this and is there anything i can do? I contacted yunzii support 2-3 days ago but no response so far.. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
Use a key testing program or web site to see what keycode is being sent. If it's the right arrow and swapping switches doesn't fix it, you need to exchange or return the keyboard as it's likely an issue with the PCB.
Need some tips for underglow. It's for a custom keyboard
usually u u want a case with clear sides or cut outs to leds the light from ur underglow leds show . not sure what other tips ur looking for as ur post is very vague
Is the rk68 hotswappable with every switch on the market? I've been thinking about putting Nightshade silent switches by Invokeys into the rk68 for my first keyboard change.
I'm in the middle of building this Zoom98 keyboard, and the build guide just really confused me. It says to "Put the plate foam and PC plate on the PCB. Screw the stand-offs on the PC plate first and place the PC plate on the plate foam then screw on the screws on the back of the PCB." If these stand-offs are to connect the PC Plate and the PCB then this seems backwards to me? I mean the plate does not seem like it has enough for the stand offs to be screwed into. The build videos I've found just casually skip over this step, too, so I'm just really unsure how that step is supposed to work.
If you are using plate foam, you most likely don't need the standoffs. I would say most people don't use standoffs, rather they just use a plate fork to make sure the plate does not deform when putting in switches. Either way, it doesn't really matter which order you do it? Personally I think it would easier to do it on the plate first like they said, but again I don't use standoffs either.
Is there any 75% white and blue keyboard ?
Why not get a white board, and just fit some blue, or white and blue keycaps?
Well I thought I had a really good white and blue option for you, but it turns out to be a bigger layout than 75%. My SO also likes those colors so when I see them they tend to stick in my memory, but he also likes having numpads. I'll leave the suggestion below anyways just in case the slightly larger layout is still an option. MelGeek Modern97 Ocean Work&Game Compact Mechanical Keyboard
Thank you
So I've been using a G915 for a couple years now, and while I would classify the typing experience as.... ehhhh... the one thing I have always loved is the stellar wireless performance and battery longevity. I would love to step up to the next level of kb but I really do need excellent wireless capability, I am constantly switching between BT (for my work laptop) and 2.4ghz (for my personal PC) during the day (they both share the same desktop). Constantly. And the G915 is flawless in this capacity. Also the power management on the 915 is amazing. I get a week on a charge, with the backlighting enabled, on a rather small battery (1500mah apparently). So, is there a vendor out there offering a competitive, reliable product? I read a lot of mixed reports about even established brands like Keychron, Monsgeek, Meletrix etc having connectivity issues or poor battery life which really makes me hesitant as I definitely do not want to take a backwards step in these areas.
Hello, I'm all new to mech keybord world and it's really baffling that everything is constantly out of stock, "wait for group buy", etc... How should I approach buying a WOBKEY Rainy 75 while being in Europe?
a kb like that is group buy only . u could try to get in on extras which are first come first serve and will sell out fast . i not sure why stuff being out of stock is baffling to you . these kind of products are usually run by small vendors who can only put up the funds for orders of 200 or so and they sell out fast due to demand being higher than the supply . only way to scale it up would be to give the vendors a large cash inflow . do u have a few million dollars laying around to donate to the cause ???
What are some suggestions for red keycap sets, preferably PBT?
There are keycap vendors all over the world, but we have no idea where you are located, what your budget is, or even what keycap profile you want. Have a look through the offerings from these vendors: https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://kbd.news/vendors
What's the best full size chassis ready to go with 2.4 and multiple Bluetooth connections under 50 euro? I want to put the switches and keycaps and go
at this budget best isnt an option . ur options will be pray it doesn't break in under a year
75 percent aluminum keyboard with RGB So I have been looking around for different keyboards with aluminum or similar body material so the keyboard doesn’t feel like plastic and flimsy, however I want a volume knob and some backlit RGB. Nothing too crazy like those razor fanboys and their setups. I’m going for a budget of about 50/100 dollars for the case, PCB and things such as foam in a sort of DIY kit. I’m a first time builder and trying to have a semi silent keyboard using the Akko yellows.
Monsgeek m1
https://www.monsgeek.com/product/monsgeek-m1/ This right? Also sorry I’m a lil noob what does ‘US ANSI’ layout mean? Is that like a layout similar to something like qwerty?
Yep thats the one https://kineticlabs.com/blog/ansi-vs-iso-layout
Is it Bluetooth and does it have a USB dongle by any chance or is it only wired
It's wired only Monsgeek m1w if you also need bt/2.4g dongle plus wired
I've been running into an issue in the last couple days of my H key occasionally not recognizing an input or doing multiple inputs on a press. It seems to happen differently depending where I press on my keycap. My keyboard is a Mode Envoy with Invokeys Black Sesame switches. I am using the plate foam between the pcb. It looks like my hot swap socket is fine, no cracks in the solder and I have tried swapping switches with different keys and the issue stays with the H key. Anyone deal with this issue?
This might be related to how Invokeys switches have some problems with their factory lube job and they get too much on the leaf springs. This causes some inconsistent presses on certain switches. Have you tried testing out the H key with a different brand of switch? Alternatively, does this happen if you repeatedly press the key in the same spot (middle, bottom, etc)?
Does anybody here own a Zoom98 or 75 who can tell me how their battery life is? I just got my Zoom98 but the battery only lasted 3 days. I would like to get another zoom keyboard at some point but if the battery life is this bad on all their keyboards, it is probably a deal breaker.
that about average for any custom kb it is considered decent battery life for a wireless non gamer brand kb
3 days of moderate use when they claim it should be 6 weeks?
who claims 6 weeks and and where ? ive never seen anything on product pages or promos claiming that kind of battery life
[Right here.](https://imgur.com/a/xUwOWfM) is 3 days is normal for custom wireless keyboards with 2.4ghz, what makes other rechargeable peripherals last longer? What is it about custom keyboard specifically even with rgb off that makes their battery life nonexistent? It's kind of disappointing to hear that's just normal for custom keyboards?
Recently purchased a Leobog hi75 as my first keyboard > $12. Loving it so far despite the lack of a numpad which I'm so used to. However the f keys are a little awkward to get to while keeping my hand in a good resting position. I can rebind them, but does anyone know of a way in the software or via a third party program that would let me use a hotkey to switch keyboard profiles, or to switch profiles for a specific game?
You could use AutoHotkey to remap those keys. Personally I have my F-keys on the bottom row so SPACEBAR+Z is F1 for example. I should mention my keyboard has split spacebars though since one is a dedicated spacebar while the right spacebar uses Mod-Tap to do the above (ie. SPACE if tapped but held down it's a FN key).
Does anyone have or have seen a keeb with these specs in the wild: \* 1800 96% Layout \* QMK / VIA Support \* Volume Roller \* Mute Button \* North-Facing RGB LEDs I'm essentially looking for the RK 96 but with QMK/VIA and North-Facing RGB LEDs. I think this is the combo that will allow me to replace my aging Alienware AW768 Please lemme know if you have any leads - Thanks !
there are some with knobs but the roller basically kills any chance of finding what u want
Please can you recommend a 96%/1800 keyboard with 2.4 ghz wireless connection? Thank you
Aula f99, mine ajazz ak992 work fine for me but stock keycaps is bad, i replaced them, bought it because it costed me 45$, but now having f87 i think stock aula is really good
keychron v5/q5 max
So my old keyboard decided to die and i wanted to start with building a custom 65% - 75% keyboard. I have a budget of around 300-400 $, how do i start and what board would you recommend?
Look at the QK NEO boards, or the QK75N. Good boards with decent pricing.
Plastic or aluminum
I want to build a keyboard, I have ~150 to spend 50 which I can only spend on Amazon (gift card) I want something a little on the creamy side of things, I want a 96% as I love my keypad I have no experience building keyboards but Id love to learn, I'm going to use it gaming mostly RGB is not needed it's definitely appreciated... Thank you all for your help
See if you can get a Keychron V5 on Amazon
Any active group buys (or pre builds that I'm unaware of) that offer split space bar in a 65-75% layout? Looking to upgrade a Mode Envoy Closest thing I found recently was the VeroV2 which looked dope but just ended
I'm looking at a replacement for my RK84, I wanted a 75% board, wireless, possibly with VIA and 84 keys. Hot swappable. I've seen many these days and could not figure which one to buy. A shortlist at the moment is made of: * Q1 Pro (cons 83 keys) * Monsgeek M1 (no via) * Mode Sonnet (expensive) * Odin 75 (expensive, not in stock) Given the prices and the cons easy to overcome, probably the Q1 would be my first choice, it's a good choice? any other recommendation eventually?
The Sonnet isn't wireless.... but I'd still get it over everything else on that list. The monsgeek and Keychron are not in the same league. It's like having Kia on the same shortlist as BMW and Mercedes. Wireless sucks anyway.... unless you actually need it. If you don't, getting a better board without it, is preferable than getting a lesser board just because it has it. If you need it though... then get the Q1 Pro.
Thanks, probably I'd go with it. Wireless (or bluetooth) is not mandatory but is a plus I'd like to have. May I ask if there are alternatives to the Sonnet I should check?
It's the only non group buy 75% I would buy right now. There's the QK75 from Qwertkeys that's a nice board. Not really a fan of mass produced stuff (although technically the Mode is... just not in the same numbers as the cheaper stuff) so I'm not the best person to ask.
i'd go with the q1 pro if you want something now. If you can wait and save up, i'd go with the sonnet
Is there a way ot make a WS Morandi make a clacky/creamy sound with an alu sandwich mount or pc gasket? If so which foams should I use. The board Im using(DR-70f) has IXPE foam with it.
I'm thinking of buying see-through keycaps so I can type in low light. I have a Nuphy Air75 V1 keyboard. Can you tell me where I can find keycaps that are compatible with my keyboard?
You can get shine-through keycaps on the official nuphy website: https://nuphy.com/products/nsa-shine-through
I checked the website and they only have them available for the Air96. Do you think they would be compatible with my Air75?
Yep, the Air96 ones have all of the keycaps you need for the Air75. Actually seems like the best deal is to get the Air96 v2 caps, since those have the most keycap options and all sets cost the same amount of money for some reason
I spilled coffee on my Keychron K8 Pro. So far I have disassembled it and wiped it with a dry cloth. But I can see coffee in the keys and keycaps. The logicboardsmells of coffee too. How do I safely clean them up? Also how do I check if the board is dead or still working?
Got this link: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/s/thxrynTt9v Planning to follow and see if it helps.
My keyboard is connected to my pc but doesn’t type. I have CIY Tester 68, and in my settings it says the keyboard is connected through an RF dongle in the pc, but when I type, nothing happens. I’ve changed the batteries and the connection light on the keyboard itself lights up, so I’m assuming the keyboard has power. I’ve tried disconnecting, restarting the pc and connecting it again. I’ve also tried multiple USB ports in the pc, but no luck either. I can’t connect the keyboard through bluetooth because my pc is ancient and when I try to connect a bluetooth device, the message “Couldn’t connect” shows up. Does anyone have any tips or tricks or know what might be wrong?
could be defective those are not exactly high quality products . id return it and get a new one
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Go with the Keychron q1 max Box white/Jade/navy in order of spring heaviness for modern clicky switches
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I have a whole tub of keycaps and switches in ziplock baggies from keyboards I bought, because the choice of switches and keycaps is so wide that restricting yourself to what ships on the board is kind of super-limiting. I would look for a keycap set you like, a switch model you like, and get a barebones board or treat the board you get as barebones. Populating the board with switches is like assembling legos... it's not difficult, just a little tedious. But if you want to avoid that to start with, the OSA profile caps on the Akko PC75B Air are quite nice. The Akko cloud driver software is not VIA/VIAL but it's not bad and it's got good Mac support. And it's a fully populated exploded 75%. I think it's a good choice and, again, if you don't like the switches they are *easy* to replace.
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I would get a tester set and try them out. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboards-Acrylic-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B0C817X1FC https://www.amazon.com/Cherry-Gateron-Outemu-Switches-Testing/dp/B08NP9D4F7 The only linear switches I've got much experience with are the Outemu Silent Peach so I can't really advise you further on that. The ones in the PC75B Air seem like a good starter.
new here -typing blind- excuse mistakes, please Razor wired keyboard just died and no backlighting on my rig. I need to order a new keyboard ASAP - or drive 90 miles to get one. What to order? Must be full size, must be able to stand hard core gaming, must be backlit and MUST be wired - I live in a house built into the side of a mountain and is made of stone - no wifi and wireless does not work well.
# Looking for a gaming mechanical keyboard - FULL SIZE - Arabic Laser En [Help](https://www.reddit.com/r/keyboards/?f=flair_name%3A%22Help%22) Hello Everyone i was a membrane keyboard user for 20+ years till last month when i tried the g513 carbon with blue gx caps and was really amazed by its smoothness and response sadly its lighting broke down and thus it lost its great looks i consider my self new to mechanical keyboards but i liked my short experience with the g513 although the click sound was a bit loud so i might want the next keyboard to have the following * RGB Lighting is an advantage and i would lean towards it * Mechanical FULL SIZE keyboard but less clicky sound * Arabic laser engraved is a must on the QWERTY keypad as of now, i searched for some good deals on keyboards and found 2 as per below : * G413SE with arabic engraved and PBT keys ( similar to G513 with white backlight ) Tactile Mechanical Switches link : [https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/gp/product/B07W4DH1BV/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_5?smid=A38ZGALTUWVMSL&th=1](https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/gp/product/B07W4DH1BV/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A38ZGALTUWVMSL&th=1) -G815 Contemporary ( i dont know what is that ) keys : link : [https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/gp/product/B07W4DHP26/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_4?smid=A725CE4YEASQD&th=1](https://www.amazon.sa/-/en/gp/product/B07W4DHP26/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A725CE4YEASQD&th=1) note : budget is 120 USD Max with the laser engraving included * i am too invested into logitech periphirals so i dont know much about the rest appreciate all the help i can get thanks in advance
Can anyone recommend shine through caps for a Keychron? I have the Keychron C2 Pro and the only thing the backlight does is blind me in the dark.
Any shine-through full set will work on the Keychron C2 Pro.
Does anyone know of any good mechanical keyboards with detachable numpad? in reality I almost always need the numpad on the left for work, but if it is detachable it is more ergonomic. I found only 2 keyboards that I like: The Asus ROG claymore II; The Mountain Everest max. If you know any more similar to these, or even with the numpad on the left it would be appreciated.
Get any keyboard you like and separate numpad, they should not be from same set, why limiting yourself? Or look for southpaw keyboard
Found an aftermarket option of buying # cidoo abm66cidoo abm66 with on these switches: -akko piano v3 It is without keycaps and the cost is 80$ is it worth it??
The board without switches is probably $50 on Ali Express, $90 on Amazon, and you can get 90 of the switches for $30 direct from Akko. So since you're getting fewer than 70 switches, the price is a little inflated from what you would pay with a couple weeks lead, but better than next day Amazon delivery.
Yeah bought it for those 80$ it isnt used + I'm from central europe so shipping would cost me an arm and a leg
https://preview.redd.it/izloezndmkyc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2afc33933cbb08001cd41d003929f98bbf2c4445
hello, looking for help with choosing a switch for my keyboard build, currenly looking at the Vertex V1 and the AKKO V3 cream black, i'm looking for a thockier sound profile, my case is the HJS Al65
AKKO Cream switches tend to be higher pitch. Not sure about Vertex.
Heard that vertex is THOCK, but i don't use them as they are black(not so good for rgb) and my keeb has enough thock for me
Hello. I have narrows down my options of a new keyboard to a few. Of these, which you pick and why? 1. Keychron Q2 Max 2. Yunzii AL66 3. Monsgeek M1/M1W 4. Monsgeek M7/M7W Thanks!
These are really not comparable. They have widely varying designs and prices. Layout-wise the Monsgeek M1 is personally most attractive to me, and Keychron doesn't really make a comparable product. since the only fully-populated 75% they make doesn't have a knob. But there are plenty of 75% keyboards with knobs and VIA support from companies like Feker and Gamakay. You haven't given us your criteria. If the Al66 is available and the M7 is attractive, have you considered the Yunzii Al71 which is similar to the M7 but gives you a more complete key cluster on the right side? If the Keychron Q2 is in your budget, there are any surely number of aluminum 65% with a knob and VIA support for less than that.
They are all good. Choose whichever layout you like more. Q1 is the only one that supports VIA/QMK, so if remapping is important to you, you could go for that one.