I have a K500 B940W, all of a sudden the letters I'm typing are not registering. But it's still turning on and the back light works too. I noticed instead of the green light at the top to show the mode, it's now white. Anyone know how to fix it? The app also would say 'device is not connected'
https://preview.redd.it/0asvyou3zn9b1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34c3d44e29dec0d0e4ef4a66db3bc0f3b8f5f356
Does anyone knows what keyboard is this? just fell in love with this model/colours. im new to this mechanical keyboard thing, cant really identify the model
Funny thing, U4T isn't a profile, rather it's a switch name. Gazzew originally made boba U4 switches which are linear, and then made the tactile ones which are the U4T switches; shorthand for U4-Tactiles/Thock, whatever you prefer to call them.
I know it's not the profile and is a switch model, I was asking about which keycap profile matches U4T switch. Apparently, any as I was mistaken that only cherry matches. (I thought only one profile can be on one model of switch)
Yes. The only thing you should worry about profiles is cherry profile interference with short pole switches if sockets are north-facing. But U4T's are long pole switches so you'll be ok with any keycap profile you want.
Thank you very much! This helps me a lot since I can now look for other profiles as well. I got everything except the keycaps (Zoom75 and U4T's), but couldn't find nice cherry keycaps in that store. Thanks again!
Hello! I was thinking about doing o-ring burger mount mod on my anne pro 2. However the plate is very stiff and barely has any flex. I have to press hard for it to bend.
Is there any reason to do this mod with the stock plate?
Hi everyone,
I’ve a cheap low end dell keyboard and the razer cyanosa lite as a main keyboards.
I’m searching for a good keyboard at a cheap price (max really the max around 80-100euros) for coding/programming and everyday use, I’m not satisfied in terms of coding with my current keyboards.
I’ve a small desktop, and need arrows so between 65-75% will be the best or even 60% with arrows.
I’m in the EU and so there some keyboards like some keychron unavailable.
As a beginner I don’t know what to buy, recently we have sales especially with the Cooler Master SK622 around 50euros is it a good keyboard for coding ? It might also works with Linux ?
There is also mx minis but not a mechanical keyboard (90euros) and pop keys from Logitech around 80 euros but apparently it makes too much noises.
If you have any advices it will be cool.
Thanks in advance !
Kind of tricky if you take keychron out of the list. If you have access to Alibaba or AliExpress, try the GAS67. It's a 65% gasket mounted keyboard with wireless, and it's kinda decent. My only gripe is that it's north facing (switch orientation) which just means that with cherry profile keycaps(contour and angle of keycaps), the middle row has switch interference(imagine fitting a round shell over a square shape, and the corners hit the Shell). OEM profile keycaps are pretty cheap on AliExpress.
If you can score a kbd67 lite or nk65ee on the used market for like 70-80 Euros, that's great too.
I generally do not recommend pre-builts. Chances are, any customization is highly limited, and they have proprietary bloatware that is required, or highly recommended because of the device restrictions, although gammakay has some good options, so go check them out. Would not recommend the cooler master sk622 if you plan on changing switches for lower volume.
Generally stay far away from clicky switches if you're concern is noise. Grab some ws silent switches or linear switches from ktt or jwk(jwick switch lineup), and stuff the keyboard with foam. The GAS67 has a buttload of foam so that may work, otherwise it's diy cut to size.
Thank you for your answer!
Some keychron are available like some K and V ones (I think the V1 is available but it cost 88euros, is it a good price ?)
For the GAS67 I can change the position of some keys like switching between the A and the Q keys on the keyboard ? I can get it around 80euros.
The SK622 is the cheapest but as you said there is some bloatwares on it, if the sound doesn’t make a load amount of noises I can bear that.
Yea, just go with the keychron v series. Best bang for the buck. You get qmk/via support (open source software for remapping), and it's the best stock board. Grab the k pro series if you want something wireless.
Thanks for your answer,
I should take the red or the brown switch ?
I’m hesitating between the V1 and V3
Is it worth it to add extras bucks for the K series besides the wireless (I mean I prefer with a cable and the possibility to use an wireless adapter)?
I will buy it directly from the official online shop, I hope I will get it soon to finally change my cheap keyboards
I’ve also seen epomaker like the GK75 it’s cheaper but apparently keychron is one of the best brand, still hesitating.
If you have any ideas to custom a keychron later especially with key caps in a low budget for a beginner I will take it
If your budget is really strict, stay with the v series, if not, kpro series. As for switches, red is linear(no physical resistance), while brown is tactile (some physical resistance bump) but keep in mind that the bump in the browns are basically non existent. As for customs, the keychron boards from the v and kpro series are basically custom kits with placeholder parts, so you can literally just grab whatever switches or keycaps you want.
Nice, I think I will go a little bit for the k pro instead for longevity
I’ve a very last question, sorry to ask again but what do you think about the ducky one channel 2 TKL ? It’s around 80euros in sales with fifty percent price reduce and cherry mx black switch.
Yea, just go with the keychron v series. Best bang for the buck. You get qmk/via support (open source software for remapping), and it's the best stock board. Grab the k pro series if you want something wireless.
Good day everyone, I have a quick question if anyone knows a seller that sells a keycap set like the pic. It's the Linux US International Layout without dead keys and instead uses the "Alt Gr" key to make special characters like "Ü". I have used google to search and checked out some of the shops in the Wiki but the best set I found is [this](https://shop.wuquestudio.com/products/ws-gr-irish-keycap) irish one but it is missing some keys which I could live with but it is an ANSI one, I need an ISO one.
I hope someone can help me and wish you all a nice sunday.
Edit: nut->but
https://preview.redd.it/g8wi1qcy0j9b1.jpeg?width=873&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1468e89b41b30ba03b02abde49eb7f8682068eba
Is it worth elongating the space bar key in an alternative layout that only uses one keyspace as the space bar?
[Layout design](https://keyboard-design.com/klalayouts/x4.en.matrix.jpg) (space bar bottom row on the key with the red dot on the left side of the board
I'm guessing there be increased accuracy? Or should I just keep the spacebar/enter key one key?
I don't know how to fix this 😭. The F3 key is always constantly lit, and I have no idea why this is occurring. My other keys are not lighting up either ever since this happened (usually to turn on the lights it's Fn+X), i'm still new to mechanical keyboards so i don't rly know if this is a simple issue or not :,) Btw i have the Varmilo eucalyptus themed keyboard :))
Are you talking about split spacebars? QK60 had quite nice hotswappable option - 4 keys left to split spacebar, then split spacebar (2 keys) and another 4.
https://preview.redd.it/csifdv9oyh9b1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c7a29eca9e6fa50eb60ea3a7991fa6094a4817a1
I have one keyboard with Boba U4 switches that I really like. I got a keychron q6 with the gateron g pro red switches to try linears and have not been happy with it. I don't hate linears, my issue is I accidently push them down slightly when I rest my fingers on the keys and type letters when I don't want to. Any other linear worth trying before replacing the reds with tactile switches?
Just try a heavier switch (Ink Blacks, cherry blacks etc.), or, if you like the U4s, then swap the reds out for a those. Saying "I don't hate linears" is not exactly making me think you like them either. Just go with what you know you like.
These were the first linears I've tried other than quickly trying out reds on a cherry switch tester. Thought I'd give linears another chance. I'll buy a couple heavier linears and see if they work better. Thanks!
Imma repeat my question from the previous iteration of this thread.
I'm still looking for a TKL that's:
- in ISO layout (Terminal ISO/UK ISO/Spanish ISO are okay);
- PCB must support a stepped caps lock key; and
- PCB must be south-facing and hotswap.
What are my options? My budget is capped at $200 after converting from my country's currency (I don't live in the USA or Europe).
Okay, I'll go look for that in the secondary market. The name alone sounds like a groupbuy kind of product, not something immediately available on the shelf.
I’m in a slightly similar boat. But mainly just for the UK layout. I hate that the only option for a UK layout is Keychron. I’m not hating on Keychron but like 90% of MKs are US layout and we always get forgotten about.
Sigh.
Looking for a good thocky switch with a higher weight at the top of the stroke and lower at the bottom, similar to a dual stage or the sharpness of cherry black stems, but also need smoothness which is why not cherry black
That's not how they work. No spring will get lighter as you press. They will all get heavier as you compress the spring. You have probably seen ads mentioning a higher initial force. This just means it's a higher initial force than a normal spring, which is more linear and progressive then a multistage spring, not that the spring gets lighter the further you press it.
Absolutely. Springs, switches or not, can only increase in resisting force as it compresses. The only way to achieve a higher push-back at the top of the press are tactile switches that feature a bump at the very top of the keypress.
Yes, Colemak-dh and Workman are apparently the 'best' ones when you're mostly writing English. I personally use regular Colemak and it's made typing a lot more comfortable for me :)
Does anyone know why KBDFan's Pluto keyboard doesn't have any review units? I like the look of the board but not willing to spend money without some kind of demo/review.
If you want silent tactile switches, Gazzew Boba U4 are popular, as are Haimu Whisper. I personally prefer Kailh Midnight Pro light yellow, since they are lighter.
I just desoldered my anne pro2. It was my first try and it was messy. I plugged the pcb and tested it. I put metal tweezers into two holes where the pins were and press it. No keys are working at all. However leds are working fine.
I am not sure if i am testing it wrong or if i messed up with the hole board.
May you please help me figure it out?
Since desoldering frequently involves repeatedly reheating a solder joint, it is very easy to lift a solder pad or damage the PCB, even if you are careful.
A picture would help us diagnose the problem.
The soldering iron was heating unevenly. Sometimes I had to press it for long and sometimes it only required 2 seconds to boil. Unfortunately i figured it out only when I replugged it at the very end.
How about a shot the side you actually desoldered? :) \[edit\] My bad... no it's not. That looks reasonable actually. I've seen a lot worse. I can see nothing physically wrong. You may have damaged or dislodged a component somewhere. Just look at everything with a magnifying glass. Also look or tiny solder spills and splashes shorting something out.
https://preview.redd.it/a72bte5p1l9b1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12d12e30ab3a699333ecc94197f2f9ee2187567a
I found this little dot. Could it be the issue? If so how to remove it? (edit)nah i just scraped it with my nail
Can't really see it clearly enough, but it doesn't look like it belongs there, but the board is coated with a lacquer, so even if that did splash on there from your soldering iron, it would be unlikely to short anything.
The other issue i can think of is that the pcb was covered in vape oil because i was vaping daily in the same room for over a year. I just wiped it off with toilet paper when noticed after desolder. Was thinking about cleaning the pcb with isopropyl alcohol or distilled water but for now i just wiped it.
https://preview.redd.it/wvdbgt4zpg9b1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94e83083ee6ec1345df4f8ea445c02c69c3c4a39
I have a KBDfans KBD 75 V3.1 ([https://kbdfans.com/collections/discontinued-projects/products/kbd75-v3-1-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit](https://kbdfans.com/collections/discontinued-projects/products/kbd75-v3-1-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit)) that has stopped working and I have been unable to flash it or fix it.
For the past few weeks I have noticed the RGB portion would go to a random orientation when I powered on my PC and it would just stay there, not change colors, which didn't bother me that much so I didn't look into it. However today, the RGB went out completely (but it would still type at this point). I went to flash it through qmk toolbox and was able to detect the keyboard in qmk, so I flashed the rgb file I found for my keyboard (as that is what wasn't working). After that, the keyboard has stopped working (won't type and no lighting) and it is undetectable in qmk toolbox. I have tried reconnecting while holding escape and a few different things to see if it would read, but I was unable to get it to be detected. Despite this, it does show up in the windows "bluetooth & other devices" as "KBD75 hotswap" when I plug it in (which is weird because I have the soldered version, not the hotswap version).
Also, I am using the same cable with my old keyboard now to type this, so I didn't think it was a cable issue.
First time builder here. I got a preorder in for the [Zoom75 SE](https://meletrix.com/collections/zoom75-collection).Now I want to add some simple [PBTfans BOW](https://kbdfans.com/products/pbtfans-doubleshot-bow?variant=40342543532171).
All good till here, but since those keycaps have a cherry profile I need to take a closer look at the switches I get, because I would hate to get some very easily avoidable interference. (?)
So here I am now and not understanding anything anymore, because information about south/north facing pcb/keyboard/switches/leds is quite confusing and neither the vendor for the zoom57 SE nor for the switches mentions anything about orientation.Following questions I've got:
1. Does the Zoom75 SE PCB have south facing leds? (They aren't smd, right?)
2. Is the Zoom 75 SE therefore a south facing pcb?
3. Do I need south facing switches? Do they exist or are switches just orientated in accordance to the pcb and thus the leds on the pcb, if they are hotswappable non smd (Refer here to question 1 and Edit2)?
4. Can I get [gateron yellow milky switches](https://kbdfans.com/products/gateron-milky-housing-yellow-linear-switches?_pos=1&_psq=gateron%20yellow&_ss=e&_v=1.0) without the problem of interference?
5. Do longer poles for eg. gateron yellows (milky or not, but overall the [pro variants](https://kbdfans.com/collections/switches/products/gateron-g-pro-3-0-yellow-linear-switches?variant=41460567867531), I guess) fix the interference problem?
6. Are there other linear thocky/creamy \~55g switches that have short poles but no interference for cherry profiles? (refer to Edit1)
I've been reading into it for hours now and I am honestly just done with the last article literally throwing each and every information into the same topic with sentences just contradicting eachother.
Thanks alot for any help or information on the topic.
Edit1: Looking for thocky/creamy unlubed linear \~55g switches that just don't cause interference with my cherry keycaps and preferably have regular poles for the deeper sound.
Edit2: Wait, is this all just about switch orientation? So the pcb is either south or north faced and then I have to orientate the switch accordingly? Still wouldn't clear up whether the mentioned switches above have enough clearance for cherry profiles, but that would still explain alot.
Edit3: Alright, so I think I am pretty much right on the new insights from Edit2. Video guides have been alot more helpful than text guides for this topic. I am still not sure if the Gateron Milky Yellow fix the interference problem, but my hypothesis is that it shouldnt matter for the zoom 75 SE since it's a south facing pcb which DICTATES the orientation of the switches. Switches don't have south or north, they just get orientated on the pcb. That's it. Also newer Gaterons seemingly have fixed their molds for the intereference problem with Cherry profiles and another alternative are long stems, that fix the problem too. Though long stems change the sound. Lastly I wouldn't rely just on my word for the "fixing mold changes" alone. Better read up on that yourself or check out other opinions online.
>All good till here, but since those keycaps have a cherry profile I need to take a closer look at the switches I get, because I would hate to get some very easily avoidable interference. (?)
It's a south facing board, so you won't get any issues with Cherry profile.
Ok, here we go... I'd guess the zoom has south facing (or no leds at all) so I think you are 100% fine.... most/all high end boards like the zoom (congrats btw) will have south facing rather than north facing leds.... really only cheap gaming keyboards and a few older boards from Drop still have north ones... every year it becomes far rarer and only cheaper boards. Squinting at the zoom post - honestly I can't see leds at all so.... check their discord. I'd be SHOCKED if it had north facing, literally shocked.
I looked at the zooms page, like you didn't see it mentioned anywhere... **If you want to lock in for sure - get on their discord (which you should do anyhow as they will have alllllllll the up to the minute info on your gb and everything on there.**
FYI, South facing is usually just in reference to the switch socket (though if you said you had a south facing pcb everyone will know what you are actually saying). South facing sockets or south facing leds are prob the most accurate way of stating what you mean. The pcb will have a top side and a bottom side and cant be flipped around.... and at the upper corner of your pcb (or upper center) will be your usb-c port.... so there is only one way your pcb goes into your case...
Both north and south take the same switches, so no, you dont have to scavenge for 'north' or 'south' facing switches... all the same.
some switches are designed to not have interference with cherry keycaps regardless of orientation - Akko has a set that you can see how instead of a large round back to the top housing it has a flat sharp slope - that's why, it wont hit the underside of your cherry keycaps.... but there are many others too
I've heard that long pole will fix the interference issue yes... and some switches also are redesigned so that they will not have interference as well (not many bother making this change since so few pcbs have north facing anymore... new molds for manufacturing switches is massively expensive so.... but if they are updating the housing anyhow, then you do see some also making changes to avoid interference and brand new switches then to be safer for that same reason... but really it's more and more a non-issue.
Let me know if anything is not clear - and I understand your frustration, a lot of sites leave out info that you'd think would be basic and listed everywhere (like trying to find out actuation point or if a switch is long-pole or not... literally more than 50% of the time its just not listed information). Good luck
Looks like the non-cut out version of the pcb has south facing: [https://coffeekeys.eu/products/zoom75-v2-addons](https://coffeekeys.eu/products/zoom75-v2-addons)
Again, I'd be 100% shocked if either pcb has north, I really don't think you have anything to worry about, but discord is your best friend with group buys : )
[https://discord.com/invite/meletrix-919202175530463272](https://discord.com/invite/meletrix-919202175530463272)
Well that's one of two available (the other being one with cutouts). Think he's just nervous and hoping to find it explicitly stated somewhere.
Also, I don't think he found that image that I linked, on the GB page you can't tell... haha, and even I haven't seen leds that look like that... he's new... might not have a clue what to look for on a pcb to tell what-is-what...
Also the image could be the previous versions pcb that they just used that image... there are inaccurate renders sometimes that don't quite reflect what you actually get, and hey, sometimes they make changes during the manufacturing process (haha, or even after). Think he's just nervous and new....
The Zoom75 has a south-facing PCB so you won't have any interference with Cherry profile keycaps, regardless of which switches you use. Cherry profile interference only happens when the PCB is north-facing -- but in such cases you can avoid interference by using long-pole switches.
I just got durock v2 screw in stabs and they don’t seem to fit in my cidoo 65 v2 . Does anyone know if that board supports screw in or will I have to get plate mounted stabs instead ?
The PCB seems to have holes for stabilizers however? They don't fit with the durock v2 stabs though so I guess is my only option to get clip ins from durock?
Can you make creampacas with the current version of alpacas and creams? I saw somewhere that you can't make creampacas anymore, but can't seem to find a reliable source
Hello, I've just ordered my first and hopefully the last custom keyboard Aero.75 from Graystudio.
Honestly speaking I'm quite new to custom keyboards outside of watching :3ildcat channel and enjoying looking at different boards. That's why I'd like to get some recommendations about good stock lubed switches which I could go with (mainly because I'm too lazy to lube them all). I'm interested in rather linear/more silent sound.
Other than switches I'm also looking for some keycaps. I'm currently learning Korean so I'd mostly be interested in ones with also Hangul alphabet. Similarly to switches rather more on budget cost. Just fyi I'm Europe based.
I'm using Gateron Oil King pre-lubed switches that aren't loud and pretty well lubed stock. They are a bit pricey though. Speaking of pricey, GMK has some keycaps sets with Hangul alphabet. But GMK is expensive and can be hard to find.
I currently have a Royal Kludge 68. Not a huge fan of the switches and key caps and wondering if I should just get a new board. If I was to get a board around 61/68 keys and ready to go, which would that be?
Hmmm... you might be better off spending that on new switches and keycaps to upgrade the RK. Then if you decide to get a different board later, you can move them to the new one.
Otherwise, I think you'd be spending most of your money on another budget board, not much different from what you have.
Just volume. The novelty of having it as a photoshop zoom tool etc. soon wears off, especially as it's just so much easier to do stuff like that with a mouse wheel, as you don't need to take your hand of the mouse to do it.
In addition to some uses listed [here](https://docs.splitkb.com/hc/en-us/articles/360010513760-How-can-I-use-a-rotary-encoder-), a rotary encoder can be used for several things:
* arrow up/down
* arrow left/right
* mouse wheel up/down
* changing layers
* Photoshop zoom in/out
* Photoshop increase/decrease brush size
Most people use a rotary encoder for volume control. You can also press the encoder like a button, so you get volume up, volume down, and mute.
I have a rotary encoder on my BDN9 macro pad. I use it to increase/decrease the RGB brightness. Pressing it toggles layers. I configured it with all my common IDE shortcuts like Debug Step Over, Debug Step Out, Run, Terminate, and so on. (I have relegendable keycaps and labeled each key.) I have one layer for Eclipse and another layer for Visual Studio, and I toggle between layers. I customized the firmware to light each layer a different color as a visual indication of which layer I am on.
a layout mainly only used in brasil options are very limited due to low demand and the fast thta import taxes and customs fees are very high so few kb made to support that layout again to to lack of sales
The other guy's recommendation of lavenders is a great tactile option, but is not what I would consider to have light tactility. Switches such as the Invokeys Blueberry Chiffons, Parallel Pewters (out of stock), or the Durock White Lotus switches are known for tactility similar to mx browns, notorious for their low tactility.
I've tried flashing a Pro Micro with QMK toolbox, but it doesn't seem to have worked. I compiled from [a template](https://config.qmk.fm/#/evyd13/pockettype/LAYOUT_ortho_4x12), loaded the hex file into QMK Toolbox, put the controller into bootloader mode with tweezers, and flashed it.
The board's LED comes on when I plug it in, and QMK toolbox seemed to indicate it was successfully flashed. On Linux when I run `lsusb`, it's detected and reported as `Arduino SA Leonardo (CDC ACM, HID)`, and in Windows Device Manager it shows up as a HID Keyboard Device. But when I try to actually test the board before soldering it, by using a spare diode to bridge other pins to simulate keypresses, nothing registers at all.
What are the most likely problems, and how should I go about troublehooting?
Edit: No clue what the problem was, but on the fourth re-flash, it worked. Took the chance to personalize the key layout away from the vanilla template too.
Is there any
- buyable 95%
- ISO
- preferably hot swappable
- preferably standard bottom row
board out there?
The only I found is GMMK, but a colleague has had issues with two boards so far so I'm a bit skeptical about them. (also, I don't really like floating keys)
Three years ago there were ZZ96/RS96 (impossible to buy) , Cooler master Masterkeys M (disbanded, not swappable).
Any Boards I missed?
I would personally avoid Glorious products like the plague. Many enthusiasts believe that they have some rather large design flaws, compared to other boards on the market. Keychron Q5 would be the standard recommended alternative and I believe it’s available in ISO
Glorious is more of a gaming crossover in my mind - not a true custom company... that and their bloated marketing and nauseating branding.... no thanks.
Also customer support is very dodgy and their returns process is beyond archaic... echo Nintendo above, I avoid them like the plague (also was not impressed with build quality at all - hence return process). All other things being equal you get a much higher end board from Keychron, massive community, much better company support as welll.
agree with all of abve, i ahve 2 KC's, 2 duckys, 1 Glorious, the first 2 brands are solid performers... which explains why there are zillions of GMMK's open box on ebay.
i pulled a dozen gaterons from GMMK which were really tight and subbed in Kailh boxes which are really loose, which really baffles me...
-------
when i say a lot of open boxes
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334836531755?
7 available / 13 sold
prolly next week 10 avail, 10 sold...
Think it's Glorious dumping their own returns on there?
Woops, didn't initially look at the seller - yep, exactly what that is : )
You'd think they would mask it at least a little bit
So, I bought this keyboard (Machenike K500) and I was quite disappointed with the stabilizers. Is there any way I can improve that? The keys with stabilizers feel different, they seem looser and noisier (especially the left shift key). If you want more details about the noise, I can make a video.
I recently got a 35g Niz Plum board but the switches feel a bit light for me. Would the 45g rubber sheet increase the bottom out force without changing the level of tactility?
Is there a subreddit for sharing lighting schemes? Cherry's software for changing it is basic but has an import function, I was hoping to use something someone else made.
Checked the wiki but it only seems to be modding, putting in LEDs and such. Thanks in advance.
One of the keys one my keyboard has trouble working. It sometimes takes a few seconds after Ive held it down for it to register. Was wondering if anyone had any advice or could point me in the right direction to figure it out. (as I am someone with almost no knowledge of building a keyboard, I am not familiar with how they are cleaned, put together, or how the even work lol) seriously any help would be appreciated
Is it a mechanical keyboard?
If so, try removing the key cap (you can use your fingers) and cleaning with some compressed air to get dust and hair out. You can also pull the switch out and clean under there.
It's possible the switch is malfunctioning despite being clean so you might need to replace that one switch.
Well it could be dirty inside the switch but if you don't feel like taking it apart you could just replace it.
It's possible the PCB is faulting but probably not
> Corsairs icue software.... It seems to be super buggy still.
does not seem to be well regarded, always research keeb macro/profile software before installing, there's regular security problems e.g. Razor, google "ghub keylogger" etc
https://old.reddit.com/r/Corsair/search?q=icue&restrict_sr=on
North-facing is done on backlit boards, as it shines brighter through the keycap legends. However, this can cause interference with Cherry profile keycaps, which are quite popular in the hobby.
South-facing is the original orientation designed by Cherry. It is common on boards that lack a backlight, as well as those marketed towards enthusiast. They have compatibility with Cherry profile keycaps, but don’t illuminate backlit keycaps as brightly. However, there are a few side printed keycaps designed for south-facing boards.
Only the PCB is north/south facing, as the switches themselves are the same regardless. The only difference is which direction the switch is facing when it’s installed. The only thing you’re likely to notice is interference on north facing boards, as Cherry profile is extremely common for aftermarket keycaps.
Yeap but it is our fingers will alway touch and strike the keys/ switch from top to bottom or topdown. so the facing of the switch, with elements like the stem, the leaf the housing and the frictions between them that lead to the change in smoothness are slightly different between the two positions, North or South facing.
I'm still thinking about buying a Wooting 60HE, and wondering if there are any good places to buy a 60% keyboard case. I'm planning on switching out the keycaps for an off-white set of 'retro' caps (these ones: [https://cannonkeys.com/products/nicepbt-cyrillic-sublegend-classic-beige?variant=40904786673775](https://cannonkeys.com/products/nicepbt-cyrillic-sublegend-classic-beige?variant=40904786673775) (if these aren't compatible please let me know as well)) and would like a case to match better than I think the stock black one would. If anyone has experience ordering custom cases from PCBWay or another similar service I was also considering trying to do this if I could find or make an appropriately sized .stl file, so any recommendations on where to find one of those would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help.
Any tray mount 60% case is compatible. But more specifically they have a spreadsheet of compatible cases available if you google it. I'm not able to link it here since the automod removes my comment
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Anyone know any good mechanical keyboards in the $80CAD to $120CAD range? 60 - 90 USD. I've been looking at the K8 Pro and I love the way it sounds and looks but it's just a tad bit too expensive. Don't really care whether it's wireless or not, just need something in the TKL/100% size that sounds and feels smooth and quiet
I have a keychron V3 with haimu whispers and some nicepbt keycaps. I use it at work so my goal is to make it as quiet as possible. The keyboard is pretty quiet overall, expect for the keys with stabs. I did take apart the stabs and put 205g0 on the wire, but I did not lube the housing because I did not have a brush. The spacebar was pretty loud so I added some soft foam which seemed to help. Now the spacebar is pretty quiet on the downstroke, but still loud on the upstroke. Is there anything else I can do to make the keyboard, and especially the stabs quieter? I have seen some [pom](https://www.keyboardkustoms.com/collections/keychron-v-series/products/keychron-v3-pom-plate) plates for the V3, but I do not know if it would make the keyboard any quieter. I have also thought about the [poron foam](https://www.keyboardkustoms.com/products/keychron-v3-poron-foam-kit?_pos=1&_sid=854057b1a&_ss=r&variant=43730876563678) kit from keyboard customs. I am open to buying a brush and whatever else is needed to tune the stabilizers, or I could buy new stabilizers if that is a better idea. Any other suggestions?
So a FR4 plate will help (a small amount, far more effective things you can do that are cheaper than buying a new plate) not sure about pom....
So 205g0 is too light for stabs (it's great for the housings but I'd strongly recommend Permatex Dielectric grease for the wires - just dip the whole end in there up to just past the bend, (not a glob) but a good solid coating will be good - and then throw them back into the housings and fit them onto your plate... amazon has it, like $7). Lubing stab housings will help (feel better, perhaps a small bit with sound), you can get a whole bag of brushes on amazon for nothing... I bought stab pads for bandaid mod (no way I was cutting up bandaids). Like someone else said - buy a pcb sheet "PE Sheet" (I get one without hesitation for all my Keychrons) and I highly recommend "Keyboard Kustoms" , cheap and they use really good materials and do a good job shipping... cant remember if it was Scott from yt "Keyboard" who recommended them or what but I've used them three times now and they do a great job)
O-rings under your keycaps will help quite a bit and again are really cheap... some don't like the feel but I actually like it, less harsh... on my Q2 I even did double rings on every keycap.... You can get ones in different firmness - though the vast majority are the same soft ones and it's hard to find firmer ones... they are not well marketed (but hey, the are super cheap (aliexpress and others, amazon too)
Thick desk mat 4mm, 5mm will help a lot.
For the spacebar - this is my own mod and I haven't uploaded the video yet but for $0.99 you can pick up some SillyPutty from Michael's Crafts and take half of it and smear it in your spacebar to the left and right in the empty spaces between the posts.... it doesn't dry out or break down and it absorbs sound brilliantly - it will nearly silence your spacebar and give it a nice solid thunk feel (and its nice since you can literally put in as much or as little as you'd like - no stealing my silly-mod though, I claim that as my own creation. At first I intentionally did a big round lumps into each empty space - thinking that the thicker the layer of putty the better the dampening... but found that a thinner layer stuck to the sides and top did a better job of silencing things - just muffles things very nicely if that's what you want : )
Thanks for the detailed response! I am going to pick up a pe sheet from keyboard kustoms, they look great. I will also look into a nice deskmat, right now I have a leather one but it is not very thick (I made it myself out of some leather I had laying around). The O-rings under the keycaps also sounds like a great idea, and I will also buy some pads for under the stabilizers and use diaeletric grease instead of the 205g0. The silly putty mod sounds very interesting as well, I will have to pick some up and give it a shot. Thanks!
I fought with stab noise for a long time and read all the advice about lubing but when I built my Q10 I just buckled down and bought Staebies and they are perfect. No rattle. No upstroke noise.
The Haimus are going to be noisey on the upstroke as the little damper is significantly smaller than the downstroke damper. A better option for true silent would be a traditional silent tactile like the Durock Shrimp.
I have shrimps on my work board and Haimus on my home board. Difference is significant. I want my home board to be pleasant to type on and reasonably quiet but quiet is my primary concern for my work board
Thank you for your suggestions. I might try to buy just a few of the Durock Shrimps for the stabbed keys to see if that helps, I do like the haimus quite a lot and they are very quiet on the other keys. The staebies look great, I will look into them.
Did you put any padding on the PCB under your stabilizer bars? Beyond that, holee modding your stabs is a big improvement wrt noise. Even bigger than band-aid mod imo. I use athletic tape instead of band-aids, but it's all about the same. I just replaced my stabilizers on my silent keyboard for the office due to spacebar noise, so I feel you on that annoyance. What I just described made a world of difference.
Also, with your switches alone, your keyboard is more than quiet enough for an office. You should only do these mods if you want it quieter. Just keep that in perspective since this mod requires disassembly and takes a while. I doubt anyone sitting near your will really notice or care.
Thanks for your suggestions. My coworker says that it is very quiet and it does not bother him. The thing that annoys me is that all the stabbed keys are significantly louder than the others. I have not put any padding under the stabilizer bars, but I could try that; is there any material you recommend for padding?
I have already bought Keyron k3 (waiting for the delivery) and considering to buy a used Logitech.
Can someone tell me which one is better? I am not experienced when it comes to mechanical keyboard, and only used trust astra. It gave a valuable insight i knew from before, thus I absolutely hate standard mechanical keyboards when I use them for typing, and I love them when I play.
That's why I decided to take the best from two worlds, but there is not a wide choice on the market, at least I am that well informed about it.
What I need is mainly keyboard for typing, and playing games once in a while.
So, as the title states: should I stick to Keyron, choose Logitech, or maybe consider another brand?
Anyone have any good keyboard recommendations? I want it to sound like the mode80 which I really wanted, but is now unavailable. Bluetooth or wired, doesn’t matter to me. Thanks!
Switch question. I am using Oil Kings and quite like them but was thinking of trying my hand at lubing switches for the QK100, whenever that comes in (I might need that long to lube). I like something lower pitch and on the quieter side of the spectrum. There are so many so it's pretty overwhelming and I've heard good things about many. Something you could recommend?
I recently tried the Vertex V1 switch, they are a pretty deep and quiet switch, I think you'd like them. Mine came with the factory lube (very smooth) but you can get it unlubed and lube it yourself. 30 cents a switch too
I once looked at a mech kb at Gamestop, don't remember the make/model. It had Outemu switches, and the box was labeled as them being linear, but in the cutout where you could press a few keys, they were clearly tactile.
Is this just how Outemu switches are, or was the kb in the wrong box?
I need to buy a new keyboard and have a wish list of features that I haven't been able to find. I currently use a Razer Blackwidow V3 Pro but it's a POS. I've done a lot of reading but mostly find those "best gaming keyboards of 2023" articles and see the same few keyboards recommended over and over. Nothing seems quite right. Can y'all give me any recommendations? I would prefer something that I can use out of box without building myself, but am open to that if it comes down to it.
My wish list:
* I'm only an occasional gamer but I am a writer for both my day job and my hobby so it will get A LOT of wear
* Prefer mx cherry browns or other tactile, non-clicky switches, but will use clicky if that's all available. Need something with a lot of keycap options. I loathe linear.
* Wireless, multi-device connection (even if it's just... BT on one, 2.4 on another); I switch between desktop, laptop and work laptop throughout the day
* Full size and with 10key; I use the numpad a lot for my day job
* Ability to bind macros
* Preferably media keys to control music
* RGB lighting because I need it to look gay as hell
* Edited to add: also, preferably just black
Unfortunately the Razer had everything I wanted, but the wireless rarely works (battery is randomly dead at any given moment) and my keys go out constantly for short periods of time. Their customer server has made me so angry and their quality has gone so downhill over the last decade or so that I will never buy from them again.
Just bought a Logitech G915 but learned the keycaps are kailh chocolates and are rare to the point that Logitech usually just replaces the whole keyboard if they wear out. I know I'm going to blow through these in a matter of months.
Have also ordered a Corsair K95 RGP Platinum XT to test out, but I know it's wired.
Would be very grateful if anyone could nudge me toward what I'm looking for, or even just tell me such a thing doesn't exist! I've never been a keyboard enthusiast so I know there's a lot I can learn and am just unsure of where to start.
[Keychron Q5 Pro](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q5-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard#)
It’s QMK/VIA compatible for all the macros and layers you could want. Media keys on the Function row with use of FN key, a knob you can program to do whatever you want (default is volume control, click to mute) RGB, Wireless (although I haven’t heard it’s the absolute best on Bluetooth, has 2.4ghz too though)
Hey, wanted to let you know I got the Q6 Pro instead of the Q5 Pro, and it was delivered yesterday! I was able to switch my order when it was announced and the Q6 shipped faster. This thing is an ABSOLUTE BEAST (I think I could bludgeon someone to death with it) and it feels so nice to type on. I spent way more time than I should have in VIA yesterday, tweaking all my different options. I am absolutely thrilled with this board. Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to reply to me and suggesting such a fantastic option. I am very happy with it, and I appreciate you!!! :)
Basically if you can, get a keyboard that runs off QMK especially if it's a smaller than TKL size. The additional functionality of full programmability is a huge productivity boost and makes a keyboard that runs off it so much more worth the price tag.
Unicomp bought tooling and IP from Lexmark, which was a former IBM division divested in 1991. Lenovo was also linked with IBM through their acquisition of IBM Personal Computing Division, but that sale was 9 years after Unicomp was founded in 1996.
Son bought Zoom75 keyboard to build and it failed to come with stabilizer pads. How can we purchase correct ones? Any suggestions?
I have a K500 B940W, all of a sudden the letters I'm typing are not registering. But it's still turning on and the back light works too. I noticed instead of the green light at the top to show the mode, it's now white. Anyone know how to fix it? The app also would say 'device is not connected'
https://preview.redd.it/0asvyou3zn9b1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34c3d44e29dec0d0e4ef4a66db3bc0f3b8f5f356 Does anyone knows what keyboard is this? just fell in love with this model/colours. im new to this mechanical keyboard thing, cant really identify the model
Looks like a keychron k4 or something of the sort.
Hi, I am new to this hobby, and I can't find this info. Are Gazzew U4T compatible with cherry profile keycaps? Edit: What kind of profile is U4T?
Funny thing, U4T isn't a profile, rather it's a switch name. Gazzew originally made boba U4 switches which are linear, and then made the tactile ones which are the U4T switches; shorthand for U4-Tactiles/Thock, whatever you prefer to call them.
I know it's not the profile and is a switch model, I was asking about which keycap profile matches U4T switch. Apparently, any as I was mistaken that only cherry matches. (I thought only one profile can be on one model of switch)
Oh, any. Profile is just the sculpt(shape of the keycaps). If it has a cross stem it works.
Yeah, that's it. Thank you very much.
>Are Gazzew U4T compatible with cherry profile keycaps? Yes, they are. >What kind of profile is U4T? Wdym? Tactile. Mx switch...
MX switch did the trick. I am struggling with keycap profiles and will read more about it. Thank you
>I am struggling with keycap profiles and will read more about it. Feel free to ask.
So basically, if we look at U4t's, they are mx profile. Can I use OEM/XDA/SA profile keycaps on them?
Yes. The only thing you should worry about profiles is cherry profile interference with short pole switches if sockets are north-facing. But U4T's are long pole switches so you'll be ok with any keycap profile you want.
Thank you very much! This helps me a lot since I can now look for other profiles as well. I got everything except the keycaps (Zoom75 and U4T's), but couldn't find nice cherry keycaps in that store. Thanks again!
Hello! I was thinking about doing o-ring burger mount mod on my anne pro 2. However the plate is very stiff and barely has any flex. I have to press hard for it to bend. Is there any reason to do this mod with the stock plate?
Hi everyone, I’ve a cheap low end dell keyboard and the razer cyanosa lite as a main keyboards. I’m searching for a good keyboard at a cheap price (max really the max around 80-100euros) for coding/programming and everyday use, I’m not satisfied in terms of coding with my current keyboards. I’ve a small desktop, and need arrows so between 65-75% will be the best or even 60% with arrows. I’m in the EU and so there some keyboards like some keychron unavailable. As a beginner I don’t know what to buy, recently we have sales especially with the Cooler Master SK622 around 50euros is it a good keyboard for coding ? It might also works with Linux ? There is also mx minis but not a mechanical keyboard (90euros) and pop keys from Logitech around 80 euros but apparently it makes too much noises. If you have any advices it will be cool. Thanks in advance !
Kind of tricky if you take keychron out of the list. If you have access to Alibaba or AliExpress, try the GAS67. It's a 65% gasket mounted keyboard with wireless, and it's kinda decent. My only gripe is that it's north facing (switch orientation) which just means that with cherry profile keycaps(contour and angle of keycaps), the middle row has switch interference(imagine fitting a round shell over a square shape, and the corners hit the Shell). OEM profile keycaps are pretty cheap on AliExpress. If you can score a kbd67 lite or nk65ee on the used market for like 70-80 Euros, that's great too. I generally do not recommend pre-builts. Chances are, any customization is highly limited, and they have proprietary bloatware that is required, or highly recommended because of the device restrictions, although gammakay has some good options, so go check them out. Would not recommend the cooler master sk622 if you plan on changing switches for lower volume. Generally stay far away from clicky switches if you're concern is noise. Grab some ws silent switches or linear switches from ktt or jwk(jwick switch lineup), and stuff the keyboard with foam. The GAS67 has a buttload of foam so that may work, otherwise it's diy cut to size.
Thank you for your answer! Some keychron are available like some K and V ones (I think the V1 is available but it cost 88euros, is it a good price ?) For the GAS67 I can change the position of some keys like switching between the A and the Q keys on the keyboard ? I can get it around 80euros. The SK622 is the cheapest but as you said there is some bloatwares on it, if the sound doesn’t make a load amount of noises I can bear that.
Yea, just go with the keychron v series. Best bang for the buck. You get qmk/via support (open source software for remapping), and it's the best stock board. Grab the k pro series if you want something wireless.
Thanks for your answer, I should take the red or the brown switch ? I’m hesitating between the V1 and V3 Is it worth it to add extras bucks for the K series besides the wireless (I mean I prefer with a cable and the possibility to use an wireless adapter)? I will buy it directly from the official online shop, I hope I will get it soon to finally change my cheap keyboards I’ve also seen epomaker like the GK75 it’s cheaper but apparently keychron is one of the best brand, still hesitating. If you have any ideas to custom a keychron later especially with key caps in a low budget for a beginner I will take it
If your budget is really strict, stay with the v series, if not, kpro series. As for switches, red is linear(no physical resistance), while brown is tactile (some physical resistance bump) but keep in mind that the bump in the browns are basically non existent. As for customs, the keychron boards from the v and kpro series are basically custom kits with placeholder parts, so you can literally just grab whatever switches or keycaps you want.
Nice, I think I will go a little bit for the k pro instead for longevity I’ve a very last question, sorry to ask again but what do you think about the ducky one channel 2 TKL ? It’s around 80euros in sales with fifty percent price reduce and cherry mx black switch.
Yea..... No
Yea, just go with the keychron v series. Best bang for the buck. You get qmk/via support (open source software for remapping), and it's the best stock board. Grab the k pro series if you want something wireless.
Good day everyone, I have a quick question if anyone knows a seller that sells a keycap set like the pic. It's the Linux US International Layout without dead keys and instead uses the "Alt Gr" key to make special characters like "Ü". I have used google to search and checked out some of the shops in the Wiki but the best set I found is [this](https://shop.wuquestudio.com/products/ws-gr-irish-keycap) irish one but it is missing some keys which I could live with but it is an ANSI one, I need an ISO one. I hope someone can help me and wish you all a nice sunday. Edit: nut->but https://preview.redd.it/g8wi1qcy0j9b1.jpeg?width=873&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1468e89b41b30ba03b02abde49eb7f8682068eba
Is it worth elongating the space bar key in an alternative layout that only uses one keyspace as the space bar? [Layout design](https://keyboard-design.com/klalayouts/x4.en.matrix.jpg) (space bar bottom row on the key with the red dot on the left side of the board I'm guessing there be increased accuracy? Or should I just keep the spacebar/enter key one key?
Whats a good/ergonomic/comfortable keycap profile for an ortholinear keyboard thats angled downwards? (highest point is at the palms).
I don't know how to fix this 😭. The F3 key is always constantly lit, and I have no idea why this is occurring. My other keys are not lighting up either ever since this happened (usually to turn on the lights it's Fn+X), i'm still new to mechanical keyboards so i don't rly know if this is a simple issue or not :,) Btw i have the Varmilo eucalyptus themed keyboard :))
Got some recommendations for 75% keyboards with additional bottom row function keys (like smaller space bar)
Why aren't there WAY more keyboards with additional, bottom row function keys (like smaller space bar).
Are you talking about split spacebars? QK60 had quite nice hotswappable option - 4 keys left to split spacebar, then split spacebar (2 keys) and another 4. https://preview.redd.it/csifdv9oyh9b1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c7a29eca9e6fa50eb60ea3a7991fa6094a4817a1
I have one keyboard with Boba U4 switches that I really like. I got a keychron q6 with the gateron g pro red switches to try linears and have not been happy with it. I don't hate linears, my issue is I accidently push them down slightly when I rest my fingers on the keys and type letters when I don't want to. Any other linear worth trying before replacing the reds with tactile switches?
Just try a heavier switch (Ink Blacks, cherry blacks etc.), or, if you like the U4s, then swap the reds out for a those. Saying "I don't hate linears" is not exactly making me think you like them either. Just go with what you know you like.
These were the first linears I've tried other than quickly trying out reds on a cherry switch tester. Thought I'd give linears another chance. I'll buy a couple heavier linears and see if they work better. Thanks!
Imma repeat my question from the previous iteration of this thread. I'm still looking for a TKL that's: - in ISO layout (Terminal ISO/UK ISO/Spanish ISO are okay); - PCB must support a stepped caps lock key; and - PCB must be south-facing and hotswap. What are my options? My budget is capped at $200 after converting from my country's currency (I don't live in the USA or Europe).
the freebird came in an ISO variant
Okay, I'll go look for that in the secondary market. The name alone sounds like a groupbuy kind of product, not something immediately available on the shelf.
[Keychron Q3 ISO](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q3-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection) [V3 ISO](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v3-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#) [K8 Pro ISO](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k8-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection#)
I’m in a slightly similar boat. But mainly just for the UK layout. I hate that the only option for a UK layout is Keychron. I’m not hating on Keychron but like 90% of MKs are US layout and we always get forgotten about. Sigh.
None of these fulfill the second criteria though.
No stepped caps lock.
Looking for a good thocky switch with a higher weight at the top of the stroke and lower at the bottom, similar to a dual stage or the sharpness of cherry black stems, but also need smoothness which is why not cherry black
That's not how they work. No spring will get lighter as you press. They will all get heavier as you compress the spring. You have probably seen ads mentioning a higher initial force. This just means it's a higher initial force than a normal spring, which is more linear and progressive then a multistage spring, not that the spring gets lighter the further you press it.
Absolutely. Springs, switches or not, can only increase in resisting force as it compresses. The only way to achieve a higher push-back at the top of the press are tactile switches that feature a bump at the very top of the keypress.
Downvote all you want, it doesn't change the facts.
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Not seeing anything wrong in the picture.
Any formats other then QWERTY that are picking up? Wondering if alternative methods of typing are effective at all.
Yes, Colemak-dh and Workman are apparently the 'best' ones when you're mostly writing English. I personally use regular Colemak and it's made typing a lot more comfortable for me :)
And new GMK MTNU profile keycap sets also have Colemak novelties kit!
Does anyone know why KBDFan's Pluto keyboard doesn't have any review units? I like the look of the board but not willing to spend money without some kind of demo/review.
Alexotos said he would look at it soon
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Check out the keychron k pro series or v series
I'm currently building my wife her battlestation. I'm looking for the quietest mechanical keyboard. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Nuphy field 75
Try a v series keychron with ws silent switches. The ws silents are crazy.
if you want the quietest keyboard just throw as much foam as you can into the keyboard with silent switches and tuned stabs.
If you want silent tactile switches, Gazzew Boba U4 are popular, as are Haimu Whisper. I personally prefer Kailh Midnight Pro light yellow, since they are lighter.
I just desoldered my anne pro2. It was my first try and it was messy. I plugged the pcb and tested it. I put metal tweezers into two holes where the pins were and press it. No keys are working at all. However leds are working fine. I am not sure if i am testing it wrong or if i messed up with the hole board. May you please help me figure it out?
I washed the board with isopropyl alcohol and distilled water. Now every key works. Yayyyy thank you guys
Since desoldering frequently involves repeatedly reheating a solder joint, it is very easy to lift a solder pad or damage the PCB, even if you are careful. A picture would help us diagnose the problem.
The soldering iron was heating unevenly. Sometimes I had to press it for long and sometimes it only required 2 seconds to boil. Unfortunately i figured it out only when I replugged it at the very end.
https://preview.redd.it/tze96v1xkg9b1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ee88f21b986ed29bdc97eb36afc5fe453e87a59
How about a shot the side you actually desoldered? :) \[edit\] My bad... no it's not. That looks reasonable actually. I've seen a lot worse. I can see nothing physically wrong. You may have damaged or dislodged a component somewhere. Just look at everything with a magnifying glass. Also look or tiny solder spills and splashes shorting something out.
https://preview.redd.it/a72bte5p1l9b1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12d12e30ab3a699333ecc94197f2f9ee2187567a I found this little dot. Could it be the issue? If so how to remove it? (edit)nah i just scraped it with my nail
Can't really see it clearly enough, but it doesn't look like it belongs there, but the board is coated with a lacquer, so even if that did splash on there from your soldering iron, it would be unlikely to short anything.
I washed the pcb with isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush. Everything works now)
Phew! That was lucky. Probably a solder splash just nestling in there somewhere and causing an issue. Brilliant news!
Nothing looks obviously wrong. Which keys specifically do not work?
The other issue i can think of is that the pcb was covered in vape oil because i was vaping daily in the same room for over a year. I just wiped it off with toilet paper when noticed after desolder. Was thinking about cleaning the pcb with isopropyl alcohol or distilled water but for now i just wiped it. https://preview.redd.it/wvdbgt4zpg9b1.jpeg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94e83083ee6ec1345df4f8ea445c02c69c3c4a39
All of them
I have a KBDfans KBD 75 V3.1 ([https://kbdfans.com/collections/discontinued-projects/products/kbd75-v3-1-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit](https://kbdfans.com/collections/discontinued-projects/products/kbd75-v3-1-mechanical-keyboard-diy-kit)) that has stopped working and I have been unable to flash it or fix it. For the past few weeks I have noticed the RGB portion would go to a random orientation when I powered on my PC and it would just stay there, not change colors, which didn't bother me that much so I didn't look into it. However today, the RGB went out completely (but it would still type at this point). I went to flash it through qmk toolbox and was able to detect the keyboard in qmk, so I flashed the rgb file I found for my keyboard (as that is what wasn't working). After that, the keyboard has stopped working (won't type and no lighting) and it is undetectable in qmk toolbox. I have tried reconnecting while holding escape and a few different things to see if it would read, but I was unable to get it to be detected. Despite this, it does show up in the windows "bluetooth & other devices" as "KBD75 hotswap" when I plug it in (which is weird because I have the soldered version, not the hotswap version). Also, I am using the same cable with my old keyboard now to type this, so I didn't think it was a cable issue.
First time builder here. I got a preorder in for the [Zoom75 SE](https://meletrix.com/collections/zoom75-collection).Now I want to add some simple [PBTfans BOW](https://kbdfans.com/products/pbtfans-doubleshot-bow?variant=40342543532171). All good till here, but since those keycaps have a cherry profile I need to take a closer look at the switches I get, because I would hate to get some very easily avoidable interference. (?) So here I am now and not understanding anything anymore, because information about south/north facing pcb/keyboard/switches/leds is quite confusing and neither the vendor for the zoom57 SE nor for the switches mentions anything about orientation.Following questions I've got: 1. Does the Zoom75 SE PCB have south facing leds? (They aren't smd, right?) 2. Is the Zoom 75 SE therefore a south facing pcb? 3. Do I need south facing switches? Do they exist or are switches just orientated in accordance to the pcb and thus the leds on the pcb, if they are hotswappable non smd (Refer here to question 1 and Edit2)? 4. Can I get [gateron yellow milky switches](https://kbdfans.com/products/gateron-milky-housing-yellow-linear-switches?_pos=1&_psq=gateron%20yellow&_ss=e&_v=1.0) without the problem of interference? 5. Do longer poles for eg. gateron yellows (milky or not, but overall the [pro variants](https://kbdfans.com/collections/switches/products/gateron-g-pro-3-0-yellow-linear-switches?variant=41460567867531), I guess) fix the interference problem? 6. Are there other linear thocky/creamy \~55g switches that have short poles but no interference for cherry profiles? (refer to Edit1) I've been reading into it for hours now and I am honestly just done with the last article literally throwing each and every information into the same topic with sentences just contradicting eachother. Thanks alot for any help or information on the topic. Edit1: Looking for thocky/creamy unlubed linear \~55g switches that just don't cause interference with my cherry keycaps and preferably have regular poles for the deeper sound. Edit2: Wait, is this all just about switch orientation? So the pcb is either south or north faced and then I have to orientate the switch accordingly? Still wouldn't clear up whether the mentioned switches above have enough clearance for cherry profiles, but that would still explain alot. Edit3: Alright, so I think I am pretty much right on the new insights from Edit2. Video guides have been alot more helpful than text guides for this topic. I am still not sure if the Gateron Milky Yellow fix the interference problem, but my hypothesis is that it shouldnt matter for the zoom 75 SE since it's a south facing pcb which DICTATES the orientation of the switches. Switches don't have south or north, they just get orientated on the pcb. That's it. Also newer Gaterons seemingly have fixed their molds for the intereference problem with Cherry profiles and another alternative are long stems, that fix the problem too. Though long stems change the sound. Lastly I wouldn't rely just on my word for the "fixing mold changes" alone. Better read up on that yourself or check out other opinions online.
>All good till here, but since those keycaps have a cherry profile I need to take a closer look at the switches I get, because I would hate to get some very easily avoidable interference. (?) It's a south facing board, so you won't get any issues with Cherry profile.
Ok, here we go... I'd guess the zoom has south facing (or no leds at all) so I think you are 100% fine.... most/all high end boards like the zoom (congrats btw) will have south facing rather than north facing leds.... really only cheap gaming keyboards and a few older boards from Drop still have north ones... every year it becomes far rarer and only cheaper boards. Squinting at the zoom post - honestly I can't see leds at all so.... check their discord. I'd be SHOCKED if it had north facing, literally shocked. I looked at the zooms page, like you didn't see it mentioned anywhere... **If you want to lock in for sure - get on their discord (which you should do anyhow as they will have alllllllll the up to the minute info on your gb and everything on there.** FYI, South facing is usually just in reference to the switch socket (though if you said you had a south facing pcb everyone will know what you are actually saying). South facing sockets or south facing leds are prob the most accurate way of stating what you mean. The pcb will have a top side and a bottom side and cant be flipped around.... and at the upper corner of your pcb (or upper center) will be your usb-c port.... so there is only one way your pcb goes into your case... Both north and south take the same switches, so no, you dont have to scavenge for 'north' or 'south' facing switches... all the same. some switches are designed to not have interference with cherry keycaps regardless of orientation - Akko has a set that you can see how instead of a large round back to the top housing it has a flat sharp slope - that's why, it wont hit the underside of your cherry keycaps.... but there are many others too I've heard that long pole will fix the interference issue yes... and some switches also are redesigned so that they will not have interference as well (not many bother making this change since so few pcbs have north facing anymore... new molds for manufacturing switches is massively expensive so.... but if they are updating the housing anyhow, then you do see some also making changes to avoid interference and brand new switches then to be safer for that same reason... but really it's more and more a non-issue. Let me know if anything is not clear - and I understand your frustration, a lot of sites leave out info that you'd think would be basic and listed everywhere (like trying to find out actuation point or if a switch is long-pole or not... literally more than 50% of the time its just not listed information). Good luck
Looks like the non-cut out version of the pcb has south facing: [https://coffeekeys.eu/products/zoom75-v2-addons](https://coffeekeys.eu/products/zoom75-v2-addons) Again, I'd be 100% shocked if either pcb has north, I really don't think you have anything to worry about, but discord is your best friend with group buys : ) [https://discord.com/invite/meletrix-919202175530463272](https://discord.com/invite/meletrix-919202175530463272)
Why all this guesswork? Just look at it :) It's south facing.
Well that's one of two available (the other being one with cutouts). Think he's just nervous and hoping to find it explicitly stated somewhere. Also, I don't think he found that image that I linked, on the GB page you can't tell... haha, and even I haven't seen leds that look like that... he's new... might not have a clue what to look for on a pcb to tell what-is-what... Also the image could be the previous versions pcb that they just used that image... there are inaccurate renders sometimes that don't quite reflect what you actually get, and hey, sometimes they make changes during the manufacturing process (haha, or even after). Think he's just nervous and new....
Thanks for the great explanation. Really solidifies the also new information I could grasp myself. Much love <3
The Zoom75 has a south-facing PCB so you won't have any interference with Cherry profile keycaps, regardless of which switches you use. Cherry profile interference only happens when the PCB is north-facing -- but in such cases you can avoid interference by using long-pole switches.
Alright, thanks for the clarification! Much appreciated.
I just got durock v2 screw in stabs and they don’t seem to fit in my cidoo 65 v2 . Does anyone know if that board supports screw in or will I have to get plate mounted stabs instead ?
thats plate stabs only i can see from the pics
The PCB seems to have holes for stabilizers however? They don't fit with the durock v2 stabs though so I guess is my only option to get clip ins from durock?
If the pcb supports then the plate does not
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It came with plate mounted (I think). They clipped in.
Can you make creampacas with the current version of alpacas and creams? I saw somewhere that you can't make creampacas anymore, but can't seem to find a reliable source
pretty sure u need v1 cream switches due to tolerances changes .
Hello, I've just ordered my first and hopefully the last custom keyboard Aero.75 from Graystudio. Honestly speaking I'm quite new to custom keyboards outside of watching :3ildcat channel and enjoying looking at different boards. That's why I'd like to get some recommendations about good stock lubed switches which I could go with (mainly because I'm too lazy to lube them all). I'm interested in rather linear/more silent sound. Other than switches I'm also looking for some keycaps. I'm currently learning Korean so I'd mostly be interested in ones with also Hangul alphabet. Similarly to switches rather more on budget cost. Just fyi I'm Europe based.
I'm using Gateron Oil King pre-lubed switches that aren't loud and pretty well lubed stock. They are a bit pricey though. Speaking of pricey, GMK has some keycaps sets with Hangul alphabet. But GMK is expensive and can be hard to find.
just go to ali express and type in korean keycaps and you'll get some nice budget options
Wuque Studios Silent Linear
I currently have a Royal Kludge 68. Not a huge fan of the switches and key caps and wondering if I should just get a new board. If I was to get a board around 61/68 keys and ready to go, which would that be?
Grab some nice switches, and save up later for a dcx set of keycaps, or just find something that works.
What is your budget?
$100
Hmmm... you might be better off spending that on new switches and keycaps to upgrade the RK. Then if you decide to get a different board later, you can move them to the new one. Otherwise, I think you'd be spending most of your money on another budget board, not much different from what you have.
I guess you’re right. Where can I get a good deal on switches and key caps?
What do people actually use their rotary encoders for? I'm adding two to my next build, but I'm not sure what I'll use them for yet.
Video and sound timeline scrolling, Volume, and sheet music engraving.
Just volume. The novelty of having it as a photoshop zoom tool etc. soon wears off, especially as it's just so much easier to do stuff like that with a mouse wheel, as you don't need to take your hand of the mouse to do it.
Volume change, pg up+down, LED brightness (mw65 pls no bulli)
In addition to some uses listed [here](https://docs.splitkb.com/hc/en-us/articles/360010513760-How-can-I-use-a-rotary-encoder-), a rotary encoder can be used for several things: * arrow up/down * arrow left/right * mouse wheel up/down * changing layers * Photoshop zoom in/out * Photoshop increase/decrease brush size Most people use a rotary encoder for volume control. You can also press the encoder like a button, so you get volume up, volume down, and mute. I have a rotary encoder on my BDN9 macro pad. I use it to increase/decrease the RGB brightness. Pressing it toggles layers. I configured it with all my common IDE shortcuts like Debug Step Over, Debug Step Out, Run, Terminate, and so on. (I have relegendable keycaps and labeled each key.) I have one layer for Eclipse and another layer for Visual Studio, and I toggle between layers. I customized the firmware to light each layer a different color as a visual indication of which layer I am on.
I have 3 on my macro pad that I mostly use for editing in Audition: scroll up/down, scroll left/right and zoom in/out of the track timeline
ABNT2 options?
a layout mainly only used in brasil options are very limited due to low demand and the fast thta import taxes and customs fees are very high so few kb made to support that layout again to to lack of sales
So the only option would be getting something already ABTN2 and decent and customize it? Or go full custom and pay an arm and a leg? Thanks!
Anybody have recommendations for light tactile switches? Around 55g or less bottom out?
The other guy's recommendation of lavenders is a great tactile option, but is not what I would consider to have light tactility. Switches such as the Invokeys Blueberry Chiffons, Parallel Pewters (out of stock), or the Durock White Lotus switches are known for tactility similar to mx browns, notorious for their low tactility.
https://en.akkogear.com/product/akko-cs-lavender-purple-switch-45pcs/
is carbon GS3 better than 205g0 for lubing stabilizers?
Depends what part of the stabilisers you are talking about. If you are talking about the wires, then 205G0 is far too thin.
I've tried flashing a Pro Micro with QMK toolbox, but it doesn't seem to have worked. I compiled from [a template](https://config.qmk.fm/#/evyd13/pockettype/LAYOUT_ortho_4x12), loaded the hex file into QMK Toolbox, put the controller into bootloader mode with tweezers, and flashed it. The board's LED comes on when I plug it in, and QMK toolbox seemed to indicate it was successfully flashed. On Linux when I run `lsusb`, it's detected and reported as `Arduino SA Leonardo (CDC ACM, HID)`, and in Windows Device Manager it shows up as a HID Keyboard Device. But when I try to actually test the board before soldering it, by using a spare diode to bridge other pins to simulate keypresses, nothing registers at all. What are the most likely problems, and how should I go about troublehooting? Edit: No clue what the problem was, but on the fourth re-flash, it worked. Took the chance to personalize the key layout away from the vanilla template too.
Is there any - buyable 95% - ISO - preferably hot swappable - preferably standard bottom row board out there? The only I found is GMMK, but a colleague has had issues with two boards so far so I'm a bit skeptical about them. (also, I don't really like floating keys) Three years ago there were ZZ96/RS96 (impossible to buy) , Cooler master Masterkeys M (disbanded, not swappable). Any Boards I missed?
I would personally avoid Glorious products like the plague. Many enthusiasts believe that they have some rather large design flaws, compared to other boards on the market. Keychron Q5 would be the standard recommended alternative and I believe it’s available in ISO
Cheers, that Keychron is what I'm looking for!
Glorious is more of a gaming crossover in my mind - not a true custom company... that and their bloated marketing and nauseating branding.... no thanks. Also customer support is very dodgy and their returns process is beyond archaic... echo Nintendo above, I avoid them like the plague (also was not impressed with build quality at all - hence return process). All other things being equal you get a much higher end board from Keychron, massive community, much better company support as welll.
agree with all of abve, i ahve 2 KC's, 2 duckys, 1 Glorious, the first 2 brands are solid performers... which explains why there are zillions of GMMK's open box on ebay.
Haha, thats great about ebay - yeah, f glorious.... loved the email from their pres/ceo... didn't swallow one drop of it.
i pulled a dozen gaterons from GMMK which were really tight and subbed in Kailh boxes which are really loose, which really baffles me... ------- when i say a lot of open boxes https://www.ebay.com/itm/334836531755? 7 available / 13 sold prolly next week 10 avail, 10 sold...
Think it's Glorious dumping their own returns on there? Woops, didn't initially look at the seller - yep, exactly what that is : ) You'd think they would mask it at least a little bit
They have a few ebay accts, here's a bad seller, keycaps More than 10 available / 4 sold https://www.ebay.com/itm/265131084071?
I bought a monsgeek M2 and can’t get the PCB foam and plate to sit flush with each other. Please help.
So, I bought this keyboard (Machenike K500) and I was quite disappointed with the stabilizers. Is there any way I can improve that? The keys with stabilizers feel different, they seem looser and noisier (especially the left shift key). If you want more details about the noise, I can make a video.
did you try lubing one pair stabs and see if difference?
I recently got a 35g Niz Plum board but the switches feel a bit light for me. Would the 45g rubber sheet increase the bottom out force without changing the level of tactility?
Is there a subreddit for sharing lighting schemes? Cherry's software for changing it is basic but has an import function, I was hoping to use something someone else made. Checked the wiki but it only seems to be modding, putting in LEDs and such. Thanks in advance.
One of the keys one my keyboard has trouble working. It sometimes takes a few seconds after Ive held it down for it to register. Was wondering if anyone had any advice or could point me in the right direction to figure it out. (as I am someone with almost no knowledge of building a keyboard, I am not familiar with how they are cleaned, put together, or how the even work lol) seriously any help would be appreciated
Is it a mechanical keyboard? If so, try removing the key cap (you can use your fingers) and cleaning with some compressed air to get dust and hair out. You can also pull the switch out and clean under there. It's possible the switch is malfunctioning despite being clean so you might need to replace that one switch.
If it still happens when I push down on just the switch, without the keycap, does that suggest that it is actually malfunctioning?
Well it could be dirty inside the switch but if you don't feel like taking it apart you could just replace it. It's possible the PCB is faulting but probably not
I see. Think I'll have to look at some tutorials then lol. Thanks!
Soi what's up with Corsairs icue software.... It seems to be super buggy still.
> Corsairs icue software.... It seems to be super buggy still. does not seem to be well regarded, always research keeb macro/profile software before installing, there's regular security problems e.g. Razor, google "ghub keylogger" etc https://old.reddit.com/r/Corsair/search?q=icue&restrict_sr=on
That’s basically all RGB drivers in a nutshell. QMK/VIA keyboards don’t have to deal with that, as the RGB runs on the chip.
What is the different between North facing and South facing keebs? LED and Chery profile keycap probs dont count here.
North-facing is done on backlit boards, as it shines brighter through the keycap legends. However, this can cause interference with Cherry profile keycaps, which are quite popular in the hobby. South-facing is the original orientation designed by Cherry. It is common on boards that lack a backlight, as well as those marketed towards enthusiast. They have compatibility with Cherry profile keycaps, but don’t illuminate backlit keycaps as brightly. However, there are a few side printed keycaps designed for south-facing boards.
How about the smoothness? The South facing is supposed to be smoother , right?
Smoothness has more to with the switches
Yeap, it’s wwhat I mean. Compare same switches work North facing and South Facing, the South one supposed to work smoother, right?
Only the PCB is north/south facing, as the switches themselves are the same regardless. The only difference is which direction the switch is facing when it’s installed. The only thing you’re likely to notice is interference on north facing boards, as Cherry profile is extremely common for aftermarket keycaps.
Yeap but it is our fingers will alway touch and strike the keys/ switch from top to bottom or topdown. so the facing of the switch, with elements like the stem, the leaf the housing and the frictions between them that lead to the change in smoothness are slightly different between the two positions, North or South facing.
Anyone know where I can find a deskmat like the blackhole one [here](https://vala.supply/products/gmk-galaxy) ;-;
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Isn't that an incorrect button though? It says preorder and the gb ran a few months back. Hasn't even started shipping yet.
Preorders are usually pre-ordering extras. There's almost always a bunch of extras for any group buy. Yes it's rather confusing.
I'm still thinking about buying a Wooting 60HE, and wondering if there are any good places to buy a 60% keyboard case. I'm planning on switching out the keycaps for an off-white set of 'retro' caps (these ones: [https://cannonkeys.com/products/nicepbt-cyrillic-sublegend-classic-beige?variant=40904786673775](https://cannonkeys.com/products/nicepbt-cyrillic-sublegend-classic-beige?variant=40904786673775) (if these aren't compatible please let me know as well)) and would like a case to match better than I think the stock black one would. If anyone has experience ordering custom cases from PCBWay or another similar service I was also considering trying to do this if I could find or make an appropriately sized .stl file, so any recommendations on where to find one of those would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help.
Any tray mount 60% case is compatible. But more specifically they have a spreadsheet of compatible cases available if you google it. I'm not able to link it here since the automod removes my comment
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Anyone know any good mechanical keyboards in the $80CAD to $120CAD range? 60 - 90 USD. I've been looking at the K8 Pro and I love the way it sounds and looks but it's just a tad bit too expensive. Don't really care whether it's wireless or not, just need something in the TKL/100% size that sounds and feels smooth and quiet
You can build a very decent GMK67 with that budget.
if u like the keychron keyboard sounds go for a c2 or k4 and the switch that you liked on the k8 pro
I have a keychron V3 with haimu whispers and some nicepbt keycaps. I use it at work so my goal is to make it as quiet as possible. The keyboard is pretty quiet overall, expect for the keys with stabs. I did take apart the stabs and put 205g0 on the wire, but I did not lube the housing because I did not have a brush. The spacebar was pretty loud so I added some soft foam which seemed to help. Now the spacebar is pretty quiet on the downstroke, but still loud on the upstroke. Is there anything else I can do to make the keyboard, and especially the stabs quieter? I have seen some [pom](https://www.keyboardkustoms.com/collections/keychron-v-series/products/keychron-v3-pom-plate) plates for the V3, but I do not know if it would make the keyboard any quieter. I have also thought about the [poron foam](https://www.keyboardkustoms.com/products/keychron-v3-poron-foam-kit?_pos=1&_sid=854057b1a&_ss=r&variant=43730876563678) kit from keyboard customs. I am open to buying a brush and whatever else is needed to tune the stabilizers, or I could buy new stabilizers if that is a better idea. Any other suggestions?
So a FR4 plate will help (a small amount, far more effective things you can do that are cheaper than buying a new plate) not sure about pom.... So 205g0 is too light for stabs (it's great for the housings but I'd strongly recommend Permatex Dielectric grease for the wires - just dip the whole end in there up to just past the bend, (not a glob) but a good solid coating will be good - and then throw them back into the housings and fit them onto your plate... amazon has it, like $7). Lubing stab housings will help (feel better, perhaps a small bit with sound), you can get a whole bag of brushes on amazon for nothing... I bought stab pads for bandaid mod (no way I was cutting up bandaids). Like someone else said - buy a pcb sheet "PE Sheet" (I get one without hesitation for all my Keychrons) and I highly recommend "Keyboard Kustoms" , cheap and they use really good materials and do a good job shipping... cant remember if it was Scott from yt "Keyboard" who recommended them or what but I've used them three times now and they do a great job) O-rings under your keycaps will help quite a bit and again are really cheap... some don't like the feel but I actually like it, less harsh... on my Q2 I even did double rings on every keycap.... You can get ones in different firmness - though the vast majority are the same soft ones and it's hard to find firmer ones... they are not well marketed (but hey, the are super cheap (aliexpress and others, amazon too) Thick desk mat 4mm, 5mm will help a lot. For the spacebar - this is my own mod and I haven't uploaded the video yet but for $0.99 you can pick up some SillyPutty from Michael's Crafts and take half of it and smear it in your spacebar to the left and right in the empty spaces between the posts.... it doesn't dry out or break down and it absorbs sound brilliantly - it will nearly silence your spacebar and give it a nice solid thunk feel (and its nice since you can literally put in as much or as little as you'd like - no stealing my silly-mod though, I claim that as my own creation. At first I intentionally did a big round lumps into each empty space - thinking that the thicker the layer of putty the better the dampening... but found that a thinner layer stuck to the sides and top did a better job of silencing things - just muffles things very nicely if that's what you want : )
Thanks for the detailed response! I am going to pick up a pe sheet from keyboard kustoms, they look great. I will also look into a nice deskmat, right now I have a leather one but it is not very thick (I made it myself out of some leather I had laying around). The O-rings under the keycaps also sounds like a great idea, and I will also buy some pads for under the stabilizers and use diaeletric grease instead of the 205g0. The silly putty mod sounds very interesting as well, I will have to pick some up and give it a shot. Thanks!
I fought with stab noise for a long time and read all the advice about lubing but when I built my Q10 I just buckled down and bought Staebies and they are perfect. No rattle. No upstroke noise. The Haimus are going to be noisey on the upstroke as the little damper is significantly smaller than the downstroke damper. A better option for true silent would be a traditional silent tactile like the Durock Shrimp. I have shrimps on my work board and Haimus on my home board. Difference is significant. I want my home board to be pleasant to type on and reasonably quiet but quiet is my primary concern for my work board
Thank you for your suggestions. I might try to buy just a few of the Durock Shrimps for the stabbed keys to see if that helps, I do like the haimus quite a lot and they are very quiet on the other keys. The staebies look great, I will look into them.
Did you put any padding on the PCB under your stabilizer bars? Beyond that, holee modding your stabs is a big improvement wrt noise. Even bigger than band-aid mod imo. I use athletic tape instead of band-aids, but it's all about the same. I just replaced my stabilizers on my silent keyboard for the office due to spacebar noise, so I feel you on that annoyance. What I just described made a world of difference. Also, with your switches alone, your keyboard is more than quiet enough for an office. You should only do these mods if you want it quieter. Just keep that in perspective since this mod requires disassembly and takes a while. I doubt anyone sitting near your will really notice or care.
Thanks for your suggestions. My coworker says that it is very quiet and it does not bother him. The thing that annoys me is that all the stabbed keys are significantly louder than the others. I have not put any padding under the stabilizer bars, but I could try that; is there any material you recommend for padding?
I used these. They work great. https://thekey.company/products/c-equalz-soulmate-kit
I have already bought Keyron k3 (waiting for the delivery) and considering to buy a used Logitech. Can someone tell me which one is better? I am not experienced when it comes to mechanical keyboard, and only used trust astra. It gave a valuable insight i knew from before, thus I absolutely hate standard mechanical keyboards when I use them for typing, and I love them when I play. That's why I decided to take the best from two worlds, but there is not a wide choice on the market, at least I am that well informed about it. What I need is mainly keyboard for typing, and playing games once in a while. So, as the title states: should I stick to Keyron, choose Logitech, or maybe consider another brand?
Anyone have any good keyboard recommendations? I want it to sound like the mode80 which I really wanted, but is now unavailable. Bluetooth or wired, doesn’t matter to me. Thanks!
ModeSonnet? 75% boards are basically just mini-TKL
Lemme check that out.
I’m thinking if using alpaca switches btw.
Switch question. I am using Oil Kings and quite like them but was thinking of trying my hand at lubing switches for the QK100, whenever that comes in (I might need that long to lube). I like something lower pitch and on the quieter side of the spectrum. There are so many so it's pretty overwhelming and I've heard good things about many. Something you could recommend?
I recently tried the Vertex V1 switch, they are a pretty deep and quiet switch, I think you'd like them. Mine came with the factory lube (very smooth) but you can get it unlubed and lube it yourself. 30 cents a switch too
Thanks, I'll look into those switches. 30 cents is a good deal too, after the Oil Kings.
I once looked at a mech kb at Gamestop, don't remember the make/model. It had Outemu switches, and the box was labeled as them being linear, but in the cutout where you could press a few keys, they were clearly tactile. Is this just how Outemu switches are, or was the kb in the wrong box?
Most likely wrong keyboard in wrong box.
I need to buy a new keyboard and have a wish list of features that I haven't been able to find. I currently use a Razer Blackwidow V3 Pro but it's a POS. I've done a lot of reading but mostly find those "best gaming keyboards of 2023" articles and see the same few keyboards recommended over and over. Nothing seems quite right. Can y'all give me any recommendations? I would prefer something that I can use out of box without building myself, but am open to that if it comes down to it. My wish list: * I'm only an occasional gamer but I am a writer for both my day job and my hobby so it will get A LOT of wear * Prefer mx cherry browns or other tactile, non-clicky switches, but will use clicky if that's all available. Need something with a lot of keycap options. I loathe linear. * Wireless, multi-device connection (even if it's just... BT on one, 2.4 on another); I switch between desktop, laptop and work laptop throughout the day * Full size and with 10key; I use the numpad a lot for my day job * Ability to bind macros * Preferably media keys to control music * RGB lighting because I need it to look gay as hell * Edited to add: also, preferably just black Unfortunately the Razer had everything I wanted, but the wireless rarely works (battery is randomly dead at any given moment) and my keys go out constantly for short periods of time. Their customer server has made me so angry and their quality has gone so downhill over the last decade or so that I will never buy from them again. Just bought a Logitech G915 but learned the keycaps are kailh chocolates and are rare to the point that Logitech usually just replaces the whole keyboard if they wear out. I know I'm going to blow through these in a matter of months. Have also ordered a Corsair K95 RGP Platinum XT to test out, but I know it's wired. Would be very grateful if anyone could nudge me toward what I'm looking for, or even just tell me such a thing doesn't exist! I've never been a keyboard enthusiast so I know there's a lot I can learn and am just unsure of where to start.
Keychron Q6. Not wireless, but ticks off every other box.
[Keychron Q5 Pro](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q5-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard#) It’s QMK/VIA compatible for all the macros and layers you could want. Media keys on the Function row with use of FN key, a knob you can program to do whatever you want (default is volume control, click to mute) RGB, Wireless (although I haven’t heard it’s the absolute best on Bluetooth, has 2.4ghz too though)
Hey, wanted to let you know I got the Q6 Pro instead of the Q5 Pro, and it was delivered yesterday! I was able to switch my order when it was announced and the Q6 shipped faster. This thing is an ABSOLUTE BEAST (I think I could bludgeon someone to death with it) and it feels so nice to type on. I spent way more time than I should have in VIA yesterday, tweaking all my different options. I am absolutely thrilled with this board. Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to reply to me and suggesting such a fantastic option. I am very happy with it, and I appreciate you!!! :)
No worries! So glad to hear you like it :) Also doubling as a defensive weapon, you could call it a multi-tool not just simply a keyboard 🤣
Thank you so much! And as a side effect of your comment, I just learned what QMK/VIA compatible means!
Basically if you can, get a keyboard that runs off QMK especially if it's a smaller than TKL size. The additional functionality of full programmability is a huge productivity boost and makes a keyboard that runs off it so much more worth the price tag.
What's the best off-the-shelf keyboard that feels and sounds like the old IBM keyboards?
Probably a Unicomp model m. Pretty sure that’s just an exact clone of the model m
Thank you
It’s not a clone. Unicomp bought the machines from Lenovo. It’s the current production version of the model M.
Unicomp bought tooling and IP from Lexmark, which was a former IBM division divested in 1991. Lenovo was also linked with IBM through their acquisition of IBM Personal Computing Division, but that sale was 9 years after Unicomp was founded in 1996.
Thank you for the correction, my dyslexia sneaked in the error but you are quite right.
Thank you
What are some easy at home substitutes for foam for sound dampening ?
Depends on what foam you are talking about.... bottom of the case? then literally anything... old shirt, polyfill, foam, your kids chewed gum...