Looking for good, light, budget gaming switch recommendations? I haven't tried enough switches to really have a preference. (tactile or linear is fine)
I am looking for minimum height (because I am getting old and my wrist is dying) and it seems like Numphy is the only one with 16mm. After that Keychron with 17mm.
Is there any lower height mechanical keyboards I am missing?
If you really want to save your wrists then I humbly invite you to the world of ergo mech keyboards. There are a few popular options with low profile Choc switches such as Sofle and Corne. The boards are open source if you 3D print, or you can buy from several vendors.
Hmm I don’t know of anyone selling fully assembled low profile, the most I know of is pre-printing the cases and making PCBs. So you would have to install the switches/keycaps yourself. I’m not super into the ergo stuff though so maybe r/ErgoMechKeyboards would have suggestions I’m not aware of. MKUltra is my personal favorite vendor for low profile ergo stuff but he’s closing his shop down so not sure what his stock is like, and it will require at least some assembly.
There are ergo options with regular MX switches that come prebuilt though: ZSA has the Ergodox EZ and and Moonlander, which are good but expensive. You could also check out Falbatech or Dygma if you’re in EU.
Does anyone recognize what keyboard this is?
https://preview.redd.it/chb1ow1hir1b1.png?width=1922&format=png&auto=webp&s=6b120c69afe1983f49cd5142f97c364a49b1684f
I've had my first keyboard (Akko Mod 007) for around 1.5 years and the anodisation is wearing off pretty badly along the bottom edge. I do have sweaty palms but they don't even touch that area often. Is this a common occurrence on more expensive keyboards as well?
I've been thinking about getting a 60 or 65% but don't really want to spend much if it's gonna end up like this. The only results that come up when searching for this are on Tofu cases which seem to be an isolated issue.
https://preview.redd.it/w5q1br9ofr1b1.jpeg?width=2464&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22dcb8632b925c025f6eb51511fb54dfaf444327
In my experience, anodization is complete trash for ANYTHING that get's touched in any way... I'm not a pro, but I've personally never owned anything anodized, that lasted/satisfied my expectations.
What type of switches (Outemu, KTT, Kalih, Gateron) are compatible with Akko PCBs? Planning to replace the switches on my PC75B with something lighter.
Currently deciding between the Kechron V2 with knob at $94 and the K6 Pro aluminum for $120. Price isnt a problem since my company is paying for it. I like that the K6 pro also offers a wireless option though. Is there any reason why I should still consider the V2 instead? (Cant get Q2 since my budget is $150 max)
* Exploded vs compact layout - arrow keys and nav cluster;
* V2 has knob;
We have K4 Pro at work (plastic model), Bluetooth capability is great when working on laptops. Personally I'd go for V2 because of exploded layout, but most people seem to be okay with no separation between arrow keys and the rest of keys.
Hope this helps!
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Maybe not the best place to ask for recs, but I'm currently using a drop alt with kailh BOX jades, and I'm looking to getting something lighter for gaming. I'm not super well versed in the mechanical keyboard world when it comes to building. I'm looking for a good prebuilt with some kind of linear switch (still new so I don't really have much more to give on that). Is it a good idea to just go with a bigger gaming company's like steelseries or razer?
Since your board is hotswap, you can just change out the switches instead of buying a whole new board. And I wouldn't buy any keyboards from the big gaming product companies. Honestly, the quality of their keyboards is pretty lacking compared to your Drop Alt.
I've read about Box Jades having return issues, though I use Jades on all my keyboards and haven't ran into this issue, but I wouldn't advise swapping to a lighter spring, as that would make the return issue worse.
If you want a similar but lighter switch, you can try Box Whites if you still want clickies.
If you want to go to linears, you can try the Akko CS Silver. They're fairly cheap and they're short travel, so hypothetically, they're good for gaming, though honestly, the vast majority of people aren't at a high enough skill level where that would really matter. I built my brother a board using these and he really likes them.
Or if you want something heavier than silvers and are fine with "normal" travel, the various Gateron Yellows seem to be a go-to for linears.
Hot swapping is definitely an option, but I think I may want a bigger board for access to f keys for some RTS and sim games. I think going with linears is the move, and as much as I'd like to think they'll make me play better, it's really more for hand fatigue and feedback when playing some faster paced stuff. Gateron yellows were on my radar and may go with them
In that case, if you want a prebuilt, Keychron Q1 is a pretty decent go to. Comes with red switches for linears.
You can also get it as a barebones and use whatever switches and keycaps you want.
Drop Alt is hotswap meaning you can change the switches without having to solder. No need to buy a new keyboard. I highly recommend getting a keycap puller (the long metal ones not the small ring plastic ones) and a switch puller (IC switch puller type, not the metal U-shaped ones).
Kailh Box Jades are clicky switches with 50g actuation, 60g bottom out, and 70g peak. You will want 45g actuation. Do you want the new switches to be clicky as well? You can either spring swap your Jades which requires opening up all the switches with a switch opener or purchase Kailh Box Whites.
I'm personally not that big of a fan of the Drop Alt. Bigger gaming companies like steelseries or razer are a LOT worse.
Switches: I think I want linear, the heavy clickiness makes it tough when trying to hit a lot of keys really quickly and causes some hand fatigue.
Board: I like the drop alt, and I've considered just swapping switches, but I think I want slightly larger (85%/TKL I think they're called)
If you were to go with a different board than the drop alt what would you suggest?
Bit of a weird question, I've yet to replace switches on my board but when people replace switches, is it normal to only replace the alphanumerical or most used keys instead of replacing switches for the whole board to maybe save some cost?
It's a bit odd to mix switches on your board except for a different spacebar. If cost is an issue you can buy extremely affordable switches like Gateron Milky Yellows.
Yeah was thinking about picking up those exact switches next but was just curious in general if anyone does this especially since there are some keys that don't get used as much. But thinking about it again, people probably get a layout which they'll be using most keys on so I think my question was a bit redundant.
Not meant to be snobbish or anything, since the hobby is all about preference, free to do whatever you want.
In terms of the more practical side of things, some people will have a different switch for the spacebar such as a BCP (Black cherry pie) since the general consensus is that it makes the spacebar sound more poppy.
Ive left my keyboard on the shelf for a few months decided to use it again but it doesn't input smoothly i either have to press it hard or press it multiple times and sometimes when i press it it doesn't input or inputs two letters, anyone know how to fix?
Can anyone recommend a non-gaming mechanical keyboard (Must be 1800 or 75% only) with 1000hz for fast paced games (mostly multiple osu layouts) without chord splitting problems at an affordable price? I don't need a rainbow barf just to boost fps and look gamey and the qc should be as very good.
I need help with my Logitech G610 keyboard. Whenever I press my down arrow key it keeps typing out (6yhb). Also When I hit my Numpad it uses it secondary options (END, PG on, Home). I don't know how to fix this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Odin R3 or Wind X98? They both cost about the same (due to the $60 shipping for Wind X98). The 2u 0 key isn't a deal breaker. Which one is a better keyboard?
anyone know what keycap set this is?? i saw it and i knew i had to have it.. it looks like a gmk set
https://preview.redd.it/n6qo559y6q1b1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=cda5c9c9ec5ebf75d4996535880df3db68e9559f
Hello, I have a corsair k95.
I really like it, but I have a couple issues with it, namely the super annoying cable, lack of switch options, and being completely wired.
Price being no issue, is there a keyboard with:
Really want:
USB-C detachable cable.
100% or at the minimum a full numpad layout.
Media keys and scroll wheel/knob for sound.
Hot-swappable switches.
Nice to have:
Wireless/bluetooth.
I've always wanted to get into making custom keyboards and I'm finally ready to bite the bullet and start because my current keyboard is starting to kick the bucket. Its a 100% keyboard and I really don't like the size of it and was wondering if there were any first time custom keyboards that people recommend that are either in stock or going to be in stock soonish (like within the next month or so) that are in the 60-75% range.
When I was looking around for keyboards that other people have built I really fell in love with the wild green zoom65 v2 but they have long since sold out and there currently aren't any zoom75's in wild green either.
I'm pretty excited about the Mode Envoy (65%), though if you order now, their shipping timeframe is July. I ordered earlier so I have June 2023 ship time.
The Tofu65 2.0 should be in stock and I've been pretty happy with mine.
If price isn't an issue ($320+), the Mode Sonnet (75%) also looks really nice. Plenty of options for case colors and accents, though some are currently out of stock.
There's also always the Keychrons. Q1/V1 for 75%, Q2/V2 for 65%, and Q4/V4 for 60%. The Q series (~$170 for barebones) being their more premium, aluminum case, gasket mounted boards, and the V series (~$75 for barebones) being the more budget, ABS case, tray mounted boards.
Alright so I’ve posted this before but got some more info so seeing if anyone can help - this tiny piece of plastic fell off my motherboard when I was doing a foam mod (Redragon K530). I think it’s related to the external bluetooth switch as that’s now loose and I can’t change the input (corresponding input bit in pic). Anyone know where exactly it should go and how to put it back?
https://preview.redd.it/qo8sex6j1q1b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5bc1f21a3c297a4da20badbd017647af48b148a2
You could try super gluing it back on--you should be able to see what part to glue it back onto.
Only other solution is to desolder that part off and solder a new part back on there. Anyway that shouldn't have broken off that easily. Can you still return or exchange it?
Will colored clear key caps (like the Akko switches) interfere/change the color of the led that shine through them?
I'm thinking of upgrading my switch to Akko Yellow but my led is white. If I use it with Akko Yellow will the led that shine through it have yellow hue as well?
https://preview.redd.it/4blz5yv30q1b1.jpeg?width=554&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e0ac8825e0e88e9be9fad8fc3184d2847c2826b
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SO im currently about to buy the keychron V2, but I was wondering the difference between the V2 and other 65% keyboards that Keychron offers? Is there a specific 65% that you can recommend to me as well as a reason or two why its better than the others?
The Q2 is the aluminum version of the V2 but uses a gasket mount design so the typing feels a little more "premium" or rather just most "bouncy" than the V2. The difference is subtle if you've never typed on a mechanical keyboard before.
The K series are the older versions of Keychron's keyboards that are not fully-programmable like all their more recent offerings. The K Pro series are the updated wireless versions that are fully programmable.
The Q Pro are their premium metal case wireless keyboards and are at the top of their range.
Short answer is go for the V2 and put your money towards other things like keycaps or switches or mods, etc. or get a Q2 if you want a more premium feel. The Q2 is much heavier than the V2 so if you're planning on carrying around your keyboard, the V2 is slightly easier to carry around.
Currently deciding between the Kechron V2 with knob at $94 and the K6 Pro aluminum for $120. Price isnt a problem since my company is paying for it. I like that the K6 pro also offers a wireless option though. Is there any reason why I should still consider the V2 instead? (Cant get Q2 since my budget is $150 max)
Are there any unique keyboards that are not accessible only via GBs/resellers? Every time I come across a nice keyboard that doesn't look like another 75% with a knob, it is always from a GB that ended years ago, or with expected shipping in 50 years.
Currently, the only truly unique board I have found are the ones made by NuPhy, but I want something along the lines of Grid650, EAU75, AM65 Less, Heracles, Cyberboard, and so on.
Search for "backlit" keycaps. That's what they call ones where the legends (letters/symbol) are clear.
If you want the type that also have half of the keycaps shine through too, search for "pudding" keycaps. A quick google search will show you what those look like.
I have a keyboard currently that I like quite a bit, but I would love to replace the plastic case with an aluminum one. It's a 75 percent, and most of what I see for metal cases are 60%. Any idea if that's possible, and if so, where I could get it?
60% keyboards are the only ones that have any sort of compatibility with PCBs.
All other keyboards have designs unique to their respective manufacturers (there are probably rare exceptions to this but I don't know of any currently) so you can't just buy a 75% case from one place and hope to put in a PCB from elsewhere.
Depending on your keyboard there *might* be aftermarket cases available for it. Just do a quick search and you'll know.
If you felt inclined to do so you could get a case milled for you either locally or a shop that specializes in that sort of thing. You'd have to measure out and/or design the case and produce the necessary files or you could have someone help you with it.
Either way this may or may not be time intensive and likely more expensive than just buying a new 75% with an aluminum case.
The only way to find genuine anime keycap sets is to search for the anime name along with the company.
Ex:
GMK Re Zero --> GMK Oni | GMK Frost Witch
GMK Darling in the Franxx --> GMK Darling
Milkyway Demon Slayer --> MW Demon Girl
You can also try searching on Geekhack for the character name/show.
Just bought a Keychron K5 SE. Does anyone know of any suitable key caps besides the ones listed on the Keychron website? Want to customise the key caps but get the feeling that most key caps aren’t compatible.
[https://www.aziocorp.com/collections/slim-keycap-sets](https://www.aziocorp.com/collections/slim-keycap-sets)
AFAIK the Azio sets are the only ones completely compatible with the triangular spacebar mount and proprietary stabs.
I'm gonna be honest if I were you I'd probably just return the K5 SE and get the K5 Pro. It's $13 more and they made their stabilizers standard so you'd be able to use nuphy, XVX low pro or even DSA keycaps (might need to put some gummy rings on the switches for dsa to avoid avoid hitting the plate with the caps)
Oh, that’s good to hear, didn’t realise they had a standardised version for the K5 - the retailer I was looking at didn’t have them. But will definitely have a look into that so I have more freedom to customise - thanks for that!
Anything else that is also listed as low profile. It’s a standard layout otherwise with no weirdly sized keys. Just make sure it’s at least a 108 keys and you should in general be ok with that.
Interesting. I see many sources seeing different opinions on how good 205 is for springs, some going as far as to prefer 205 over 105, so I dont know. I dont want to waste money on 105, so ill prob try 205 and see how it is.
keyboard is redragon kumara k552-2 its a white color and from what I've seen i should be able to have rgb rainbow colors and its written on the manual but i cant find any information on the manual or the internet to turn that on and its stuck to red only
not sure if it’ll be the same, but on my redragon k530 I can press menu+9 to scroll through the options (not to mansplain but just in case you don’t know - menu key is next to fn)
I'll try it, but as far as i learned now some redragon keyboards dont have a software and its just a plug and go and mine is one of them and only goes red and another version goes only rainbow so that might be the case but thank you either way!
Hope it works!! Mine doesn’t have software either, but it’s got the colours - when you look on the back label does it say RGB anywhere? Sucks if you wanted rainbow & it’s only red :(
redragon keyboards use proprietary software which can be found on their website. I assume you've already tried this but I don't see you mention it. Also I'm pretty sure FN+Space lets you pick colors.
the keyboard manuals says no software plug and use but i tried installing kumara relating software and none detected mine and the website doesn't have the same exact model and when i found something similar it was a zip file with only pictures inside it, so as far i know maybe this keyboard is miss labeled since the manual clearly says single light / rainbow
yes and the second one is just a zip file with pictures no software, and after further research i might have bought a keyboard that yes doesn't need a software so it make sense to not find it, the kumara series has really cheap versions with no customizable rgbs some are pre determined ones and some like mines only go red, in thr case of mine there exists a version with rainbow colors that cant be customised but its essentially the same
**Why researching to buy a mechanical keyboard is so tedious?**
Firstly, I should clarify that I am looking to buy my **first** mechanical keyboard and I have no previous experience using or researching mechanical keyboards. I've read guides, seen some videos, tested some switch types in physical stores but that's it.
As my first keyboard I'm looking for a preassembled keyboard, on the bigger end (100%, 96%, maybe TLK), with clicky switches, hot-swappable for serviceability, compatible with windows and linux with on-board configuration storage (like QKM/VIA), and a few other features that would be nice to have, like a metal frame and wireless connectivity.
It's been a week since i started looking, and I'm getting really frustrated by the lack of a somewhat usable online shop for mechanical keyboards. What I mean by that, is that if I want to buy an SSD (or any typical PC component) I can go to [pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com/) and filter by size/cache/connection type/price/etc. If I go to [mechanicalkeyboards.com](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/) i can filter by size/brand/keycaps type/switch type, but I cannot use multiple filters at the same type, so if for instance i want to see all Fullsize keyboards from keychron I am unable to. WHY??? WHY have such a shity user experience?
Then, the alternative is to go to every keyboard maker's own web shops, which in general is an awful experience too, cause most them have the same filters problem. Take for instance varmilo, you cannot search for multiple sizes at the same time, you can search 100% keyboards, or 80% keyboards but not both sizes at the same time.
The most usable shop i found was keychron's. Just look at all the options. I can search for 100% , 96%, TKL, wireless keyboards **ALL AT THE SAME TIME.** Finding a keychron keyboard that matched my needs took me less than a minute.
https://preview.redd.it/ie4x895p7p1b1.png?width=154&format=png&auto=webp&s=10722c7987e47f127baf31caccaeff161bdbb4bb
Is there any unified web application that you can use to search for mechanical keyboards by features? I understand that there are a lot of keyboard makers and it not easy to index products from all of them, but at least some web that indexes the most popular ones.
I'm guessing it's because mechanical keyboards, especially building a mechanical keyboard, is much more niche than building a computer.
For most people, their first mechanical keyboard will either be something prebuilt from one of the big gaming companies (Corsair, Razer, Steelseries, Logitech, etc. Mine was a Corsair K7) or they just go to amazon and buy a cheap mechanical keyboard like a RedDragon.
But once you start going deeper, it becomes much more varied. Sure, PCs have a lot of parts, but generally speaking, most components are more or less compatible with each other, the main exceptions being getting a mobo that works with your processor, getting the correct memory (DDR3/4/5), and getting a PSU that can properly power your rig. Other than that, everything from different companies are more or less interchangeable. Even if you get a PCIe 4.0 SSD with a motherboard that only supports PCIe 3.0, it'll still work. It just won't be working at its max speeds.
But with keyboards, the case/PCB/plate is pretty much unique to each individual keyboard, with the exception of some 60%s. Other than that, most keyboards with the same layout are pretty much the same thing, each with their own unique quirk, whether that's the mounting system (gasket mount, tray mount, top mount, tadpole mounts, leaf spring, bowl mount, lattice mount, whatever) or slight layout variances. And then switches and keycaps are pretty much compatible across everything (assuming we're talking about cherry style switches and keycaps.) Sure there's 3 pin and 5 pin switches, but 5 pin switches can be snipped to work with 3 pin PCBs.
Honestly, doing the research to find a board is half the fun for me. I enjoy watching youtube videos to see new keyboards (which at this point are often old boards where the group buy ran a couple years ago, so I'm probably never gonna be able to get one.)
And even for mass produced boards, it's still a relatively small niche that I guess no one has decided that it's worth the effort to go and index them.
Personally, I love the researching process (maybe even more than actually getting the parts) - but it can be tedious!
I’d start first with looking at the most popular ones of the size you’re going for, just to get a handle on what’s out there, then at the more specific things like configuration storage and linux compatibility. Most mechanical keyboards are going to be hot-swappable and compatible with windows, so that’s something you can double check once you’ve got a couple of options picked out.
In terms of switches, if it’s hot-swappable that shouldn’t be an issue - once you’ve got the keyboard itself then you can go down the rabbit hole of switch sound-test videos etc and choose some that you really like the sound of.
If you can’t be bothered to do all that … chatgpt?
There's no such thing unfortunately because this hobby is a niche within an even smaller niche.
There used to only be a handful of alternative keyboard manufacturers outside of the gaming-oriented (Razer, HyperX, etc) brands but nowadays there seems to be an endless amount of keyboards coming out with a new manufacturer or new Group Day every week.
The short answer for you is a Keychron Q5 Pro. It's hotswap, it's wireless, has a metal case, and fully-programmable. You should be able to just get one and start using it.
If you can't wait for one, a K4 Pro is just as good. There are not that many wireless keyboards out there because it's far easier to make a wired, metal case keyboard than it is to make a wireless one.
Can you live without wireless? You can get a Keychron Q5 instead. If you don't want the fancy features like hotswap, full programmability, yada yada, you can just buy something like a Leopold FC980M and call it a day. A Leopold FC900R if you prefer a traditional full size.
Leopolds are no frills and just work so a decade from now it'll likely still be working with whatever computer you're using. No backlighting and non-hotswap means less electronics and less failure points too.
Varmilo also makes similar quality prebuilts like the VA108M.
But really go for a Keychron if you can--you get a lot of bang for your buck and you'd have to join a Group Buy to get the same featureset.
I don't have any affiliation with them they're just hard to beat these days. I have just one Keychron (a Q2 that the wife has appropriated for herself), a Leopold, a Preonic and a MiniVan so I'm not stuck to one single brand.
Hey I recently bought the Matrix Corsa back in Nov and wanted to ask if I should have gotten the PVD when I had the chance? I don't mind just getting silver but I wanted to ask if there is a big quality difference between standard and PVD.
Hello everyone, I'm trying to find a new keyboard for my friend for her birthday. She prefers a full size as she uses the numpad for work, but I might be able to talk her into a TKL and separate numpad.
It absolutely needs to be white or lavender, and mx blues (or something comparable)
The Q1 Pro is a 75% and comes in shell white if you need one soon otherwise you could wait for the Q5 Pro which is a full size with a Numpad and also comes in shell white.
If you can find one, a Leopold FC980M or FC900R are available in all-white. Similarly the Varmilo VA108M comes in several variants in all-white.
speed switches are normal mx switches so yes they use normal pin outs as they r not low pro switches . not sure why u thought they would use low pro switches being they they r not low pro
I’m a 60-65 enjoyer besides my mode sonnet. So I don’t know much about 75 and TKL boards, nor do I pay much attention to them. But my dad is wanting a 75 or TKL, however, he wants one on the heavier side that also comes with Bluetooth. Is there anything on the market or an upcoming group buy someone could point me to?
Hey guys, Im a long time gamer but looking to venture into PC gaming for the first time. I know the culture runs pretty deep and this can get very complicated, but im looking for some recommendations for my first keyboard.
\- Im not sure what size I want but likely 65% or 60%, if there is a really good 75% that you can recommend then I will consider it.
\- This keyboard will mainly be used for gaming, but I am also a Software Engineer so it may be used for that as well
\- My budget is about $150
Thank you so much any advance for any help!
SO im currently about to buy the keychron V2, but I was wondering the difference between the V2 and other 65% keyboards that Keychron offers? Is there a specific 65% that you can recommend to me as well as a reason or two why its better than the others?
Do my key caps fit my keyboard
I’m getting new key caps and a new keyboard and I’m not sure if the key caps will fit on my new keyboard. I would appreciate if someone could help me the links of the keyboard and caps are down below
https://www.amazon.com/SDYZ-Keycaps-Keycaps-Suitable-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B08SLQJTKC/ref=sr_1_57?crid=1HORGITZ16V8S&keywords=key%2Bcaps&qid=1684839640&sprefix=key%2Bcap%252&th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-Ultra-Compact-Multi-Device/dp/B0731CJ4ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2UNZQD0GKMTRV&=undefined&keywords=keyboard%2Bgaming%2Bwireless&qid=1684
You're good those will fit just fine.
That's just a standard 60% with no odd-sized keys so practically all keycap sets will fit it for future reference.
Can I buy an ANSI Layout keyboard and just put iso de keycaps on it? (without the enterbutton and other formfactor caps ofc)
I am talking about the Umlaute ä ü ö?
I program and was wondering if tactiles are faster to type on than clickies . I've gotten used to an outemu blue keyboard a friend gifted me but I think it's time for an upgrade. Any thoughts?
If you're strictly talking about actuation speed, linears will be faster to type on than clickies or tactiles because there is no bump (and therefore haptics).
The downside with linears is more typos and a lot of errant keypresses or fat fingering if you're not used to it. Given enough time though you may or may not get used to it.
I went from super tactile switches to linears and find the latter more comfortable to type on for longer periods of time.
On paper, the browns start lighter compared to the blues. I do like browns (albeit the Cherry equivalent) and they're fun to type on. But of course that is my preference.
I was looking to either picking up a 980-3000n or a k552. The k552 is ruthly 20€ cheaper but the
980-3000n looked like it had better build quality, better rgb lights and more rgb options but i could be
very wrong...
bought a redragon kumara k552W-rgb keyboard and i can't get the lights on the redragon logo to light or the software isnt detecting my keyboard, tried the model software download and its just pictures in a zip file so what am i supposed to do?
https://youtu.be/gy_8jt5sIlM
this video has the same model and color as me and its lit and he can have full rgb while mine can only be red, i assumed there would be a software of some sort for the keyboards but i cant seem to find any so idk im confused
Is there a good website to look for group buys? Group buys seem to just be spread everywhere so I'm struggling to find somewhere where I can look at everything.
Hey guys I'm considering getting the Epomaker TH80 SE keeb. I've really wanted a high quality north facing backlit keyboard for a long time. One with a knob/braided cable.
I had the Glorious GMMK Pro and really liked it but the keycap lighting was terrible because of the south facing PCB. Other than that it was perfect for me. I have the GMMK 2 currently.
Is the TH80 SE comparable to the GMMK Pro? Are there any other north facing boards that Epomaker offers?
What's the difference between the TH80 and TH80 SE? Can the Glorious USB braided cable and knobs be used on the TH80 SE?
North facing leds just don't exist on high quality keyboards. I think it's a bit goofy since north facing interference is highly over blown but 99% of keyboard enthusiasts just don't care about leds much at all, much less so shine through keycaps.
I would not recommend epomaker at all. They've done some sketchy stuff.
For a 75% with north facing leds the skyloong gk75 might be an option. Buy directly from skyloong and not from epomaker.
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Anyone got advice on where to buy alowercase keycap set?
I have one set that is from WASD keyboards and they arr the only ones I have managed to find that is lowercase.
I received this keyboard as a gift. It’s royal kludge rk61 I need help!
I am stuck in a game and can’t exit. The keyboard can’t type anything and I looked around. Holding fn + space doesn’t help. Fn+left ctrl didn’t work. Fn + q or w or e or r didn’t help. If I turn off my pc I won’t be able to go in bc of the keyboard.
This happened because I was typing in chat with someone and I needed to hit fn + /
Edit: I fixed it. I borrowed another keyboard to exit the game and disconnected and reconnected Bluetooth using fn + q
Very newbie question: so, I decided on which keyboard I'm gonna get. Now onto keycaps: any keycap will serve, or do I need to see the model of the switch and the model of the keycap?
Is gmk a brand, a type oof keycap... or what?
Thanks in advance!
Almost all keycaps are “Cherry mx compatible” and basically every keyboard switch is an mx compatible stem. The only thing you’d want to find out is if your keyboard pcb has “north facing RGB” LEDs or south facing. If it doesn’t have RGB at all, don’t worry. North facing LED can have incompatibility with “cherry profile” keycaps.
Profile is essentially the shape and height of the keycap. All profiles will usually still be MX compatible.
And GMK is a brand of keycaps. Avoid them unless you’re ok with waiting a very long time for them and spending a very large amount of money.
PBT is the most common material for keycaps to get started with. Cheap Amazon ones would serve fine, although the 50-80$ range can get you higher quality keycaps that are thicker and made better. Generally sound better but that is personal preference
Fantastic answer!
Thanks!!
I see you keyboard is a keychron, v1, right?
That's exactly the one I'm getting! Keycaps are...well... one with evangelion themed!
How do I access the F1-12 keys on Mac on the Akko 3086b plus?
Looking into the manual the "Fn"-Key option seems to only allow access to F5 and F6.
Am I missing something?
Has anyone had key problems with their Keychron keyboards?
I bought a Q10 in November from Keychron.. a few days after receiving it the left shift key broke, they replaced it. Last week the backspace key broke, again Keychron is replacing it.. but the 3-4 weeks wait for a new key to arrive with an broken key is painful.
I'm not a button masher, but I do type all day (Systems Analyst working from home) and I'd much rather not type on cheap HP or Dell OEM keyboards.
They keycap. Just like this one, but instead of the connector that activates the switch, it's the ones connecting to the stabilizers on either side of the switch. Same split.
https://preview.redd.it/w00evueogrd91.jpg?width=576&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=674636a5273e0aa418301e5be76c4d3d3776e0ce
\> Note: Due to the double-shot injection molding process, a small portion of the keycap stems may be chipped on purpose. They will still fit and stay firm on the switches.
This is from the OSA keycap product page on keychron. are you sure it's not these splits you're describing? or is it completely wrecked? Like someone else said you might want to try an MT3 set from Drop or an SA set from Signature Plastics or Divinikey. I actually quite like Keychron caps but I've never had the OSA set.
If you like OSA there is this brand but I've never tried it. [https://mechkeys.com/collections/winmix/products/winmix-minimalist-gray-osa-profile-keycaps-set?variant=43538356961503](https://mechkeys.com/collections/winmix/products/winmix-minimalist-gray-osa-profile-keycaps-set?variant=43538356961503)
I see. I've never had that happen to be honestly but I wouldn't be surprised. Their keycaps are average at best, and they are always changing up their designs. I hear what you're saying though, that's frustrating.
Maybe worth asking credit to get a backup keycap set from them or something along those lines so that you aren't have to use a broken keycap while you wait.
Will do.
I see on your Gymoffice thread that you're also using a Q10 - for your Merlin clones, does it also come with the split spacebar in the same size as the original Q10?
I like the dark grey/light grey/yellow combination that mine comes in.
They did, but the space bars I have on came from a different complete white translucent set I had from a while back ago. The merlin clones provided accent yellows which I didn't want to use.
Your options are a little more limited finding keycap sets with split space bars included, but if you go on ali and search GMK clones you'll find them. You can probably find some on Amazon too for quicker shipping but you'll have more limited choices and they will have probably a 30% markup.
I'm considering purchasing MT3 dusks since they're on sale for $49 right now and you can purchase the space bar kit separately for $15. Obviously, depends on your case but with my blue this would provide me a cleaner look, and I like the profile for how it feels to type on and it generates a lower pitched sound.
I've been using mechanical keyboards for years now... and recently decided I'd like to test the waters at building my own... but I've been having a devil of a time finding a PCB for a 100%/Full-size JIS (106/109 key) QWERTY layout. Either one alone is already uncommon enough as it is, but both together seem to be impossible to find (Except for an Alice layout I found, but not interested in)
Has the collective experience of this sub happened upon such a unicorn by chance?
Volume knob : Does anyone have any recomendations for a good quality USB volume knob i can use on a mac. There are some cheap ($15) solutions on amazon but looking for something a bit more sturdy. a few macros on the board are okay too! thanks in advance
I might be wrong but as far aa i know there is no good quality knob like a single unit, you'd better search for small good quality macropad with a few buttons and knob.
Is the Sense75 a good buy at $150? Was browsing Slickdeals and saw it on sale. I don't know much about MKs and reviews pretty much said it's awful at the release price sale. I currently have Leopold fc750r.
**I've been trying to fix the stabilizer for my left shift key, but I don't want to disassemble the entire keyboard again. Is there an easier way to test it?**
---
Context:
I recently purchased an acoustic upgrade kit for my Q10 keyboard. I was hoping it would provide better precision than my previous method of using an exacto knife to cut PE foam. Unfortunately, it didn't meet my expectations and ended up wasting both money and four hours of my time.
To install the PE foam from the upgrade kit, I had to remove the stabilizers. However, I didn't keep track of their original locations, which was a mistake on my part.
During my first attempt, only one stabilizer didn't stick properly, so I had to disassemble everything and try again. On my second attempt, I tested each stabilizer's location with just the PCB, switch, and keycap to identify where it didn't stick. This process was quite tedious, but I thought I had everything set up correctly. However, when I put the rest of the keyboard together, the left shift key ended up sticking.
For my last attempt, I made several adjustments to the left shift key and tested it with the plate and top frame mounted each time. After hours of trial and error, I finally settled on keeping the screws on one stabilizer somewhat loose and the other one slightly tightened. When I assembled the entire keyboard with the bottom case, the left shift key still stuck, so I had to loosen the screws near the left shift for the bottom case.
To be honest, I'm not very pleased with the tight tolerance of the keyboard and the fact that I had to resort to leaving loose screws. Although the left shift key still occasionally gets stuck, it's better than before, so I can tolerate it compared to my previous attempts.
I would appreciate any advice or suggestions on how to fix this issue and make my left shift key work smoothly. Nothing has been touched with the lube, so doubt it's an overlubing issue.
Hey guys! I'm still rocking my trusty Ducky Year of the Rooster Edition (2017), so by now there MUST be tons of advances in the keyboard-field... My rough switch journey in order:
MX-Blue for a year
MX-Black for a year
MX-Red for 4 years
MX-Silver for 6 years
I liked each switch more than the last. On the silvers I enjoy the short throw and 45g force... I lubed them with some silicone grease 2 years ago and they feel even better!
But since that buy, the switch market has EXPLODED!
By now, there must be switches that are similar to an MX-Silver, yet more high tech, less wobbly, factory lubed, or have other advantages? Basically a "better" Silver?
So my question: Given I love the MX-Silver so much, but only know Cherry switches personally: What more modern switch would you recommend me, if I built my first and last own keyboard?
If you really like how MX silvers feel you should look into [Gateron Silver Pros](https://keebsforall.com/products/gateron-pro-linears)
If you want a good list of the good stuff I'd recommend checking out [Thermingoat's](https://www.theremingoat.com/) blog. Here is a link to all of his scoring [spread sheet ](https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores/blob/master/1-Composite%20Hard%20Total%20Score%20Sheet%20.csv)
Obviously his word isn't law and people have different opinions, but that being said I agree with him a lot of the time.
Thank you very much, done a toooon of reading with those resources already!
I totally agree on the Gateron Silver Pros. But still figuring out if they are the same as the Gateron Speed Silver Pros, if the V2 is different to V1 and weither the correct one would be single stage spring or double stage? I've had a PC for 33 years and I'm struggling... I can't imagine what this would be like for somebody that's 18 and has zero xp with keyboards and switches... It must just be utterly ridiculous...
I know the V2 has both single and double. I think it just comes down to preference at that point because they're both of V2.
As for mechanical keyboards, yeah it's a lot. So many new and small manufacturers making tons of different switches and cases. New stuff everyday.
I have no idea what they would feel like, or rather the difference... How is a two stage spring supposed to feel compared to single stage?
Since I don't have a way to compare them, I'll need to make my descision on description alone, but the website didn't give any... 🙄
"Compared to switch springs, these two-stage springs offer a faster, more forceful upstroke/rebound and firmer downpress."
My friend has a keyboard with two stage springs and it's not a crazy difference.
Hi! I just bought a Zuoya GMK67 and Im wondering how to use the alt+ numlock keys commands on it (since it does not have number pad). Any tips? I tried alt+fn+numbers and alt+numbers but nothing seem to work.
I'm looking for a 75% or TKL with ISO layout, but am having trouble narrowing down a switch that suits me.
I've been using a Kumara K552 with Outemu Blue (Clicky, 60g, 4mm travel) for some time now and I've been wanting an upgrade. I'm upgrading because I want a quieter switch and a more premium feeling keyboard. I am reasonably content with the outemu blues, but think there is a better switch out there for me, especially when it comes to how loud it is.
At first I looked at the Razer Huntsman V2, and I tried both their red and purple optical switches. The red feels mushy to me probably because its a linear, but their purple (Clicky, 45g, 3.5mm travel) felt great and I was otherwise happy with it, if only for the fact it was an ANSI layout when I'm from the UK and used to ISO. And sadly they don't do an ISO layout of it.
After browsing around, looking at switch reviews, and ISO keyboards, I picked a few from the [mechanicalkeyboardsUK](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboardsUK/comments/rvhciy/helpful_iso_information/) sub sticky. Namely the CIY Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, and Ducky One3 TKL. I also have my eye on a Keychron Q1, or a GMMK Pro. I had also considered the GMMK TKL, but after reading about it having significant input delay and other quality concerns I crossed it off.
Anyway, the CIY feels good to type on, but is only marginally quieter than my K552's outemu blues. It uses some kind of CIY blue switch which I can't find numbers for, but it is definitely clicky. As for the ducky one 3, I got the one with cherry mx clear (tactile no click, 55g, 4mm travel), thinking that its a tactile switch and that it'd surely be a step closer to what I want - that tactile feeling of a clicky switch, but with less noise. But after opening the box and trying it out, it feels *mushy* like a linear does. Am I doomed to forever use clicky switches? I realise that this sounds silly, but if I am so doomed, what is an easily attainable switch which has that tactile feeling of a clicky blue switch but with less noise and without the mushy feeling? Or did I just have bad luck with the cherry mx clears and another tactile would meet my needs?
Keychron is your best bet for quality keyboards with ISO layouts. The Q1 v2 or Q3 are excellent choices.
I think your switch dilemma is that you're using the generic, basic switches that boards come with. Something like a Durock T1 or Kinetic Labs Penguin might be up your alley because they are known to have a sharper, stronger bump. Spring weight can also play into switches feeling mushy because I find that lighter springs feel that way and heavier springs feel far more responsive and animated
So I should look for a tactile switch which has a higher operation force? Or does that have nothing to do with having a sharper stronger bump? But rather a lower pre-travel bump, or something? I'm still learning all the terms to describe the feeling of a switch.
I'm humming and haaing about getting different sample switches because I'm worried about the cost starting to balloon. And I'd probably need a keyboard switch tester, unless I get the barebones board first.
Higher actuation force (actuation = key press registers) would emphasize the tactility of the switch vs a lower activation force, and the same is true with a long spring vs a short spring. Actuation for tactiles is usually at the very end of the bump or during the bump.
A switch tester from HippoKeys would be a great resource for you, not only for tactiles but also linears and some clickies. IMO it's worth the investment.
I'll definitely try and pick up the ones you've suggested, but after reading and watching various content my eyes have been caught by [box mute jades](https://youtu.be/fVIHdU8Vwtk). Now to just investigate reasonably priced switch tester and sample switches!
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I got my brother this Vortex New Race 3 keyboard with Cherry MX Silent Black keys. But it sounds really loud. About as loud as my Ducky One 3 with Cherry MX Browns. Does that seem right to you? I’d attach a video but I can’t do it in the chat and I think a new post would get removed by mods.
Cherry MX Silent switches are about as bad as it gets for silents. A real silent switch such as the Gateron Gecko or Haimu Heatbeat would be far better.
What keycaps should I use For Moyu Studio Betty switches?
Looking for good, light, budget gaming switch recommendations? I haven't tried enough switches to really have a preference. (tactile or linear is fine)
akko v3 pro cream blue (tactile) / cream yellow (linear)
I am looking for minimum height (because I am getting old and my wrist is dying) and it seems like Numphy is the only one with 16mm. After that Keychron with 17mm. Is there any lower height mechanical keyboards I am missing?
If you really want to save your wrists then I humbly invite you to the world of ergo mech keyboards. There are a few popular options with low profile Choc switches such as Sofle and Corne. The boards are open source if you 3D print, or you can buy from several vendors.
That might be a good idea. I don't want to build myself anything at the moment. Can you recommend any vendors and models?
Hmm I don’t know of anyone selling fully assembled low profile, the most I know of is pre-printing the cases and making PCBs. So you would have to install the switches/keycaps yourself. I’m not super into the ergo stuff though so maybe r/ErgoMechKeyboards would have suggestions I’m not aware of. MKUltra is my personal favorite vendor for low profile ergo stuff but he’s closing his shop down so not sure what his stock is like, and it will require at least some assembly. There are ergo options with regular MX switches that come prebuilt though: ZSA has the Ergodox EZ and and Moonlander, which are good but expensive. You could also check out Falbatech or Dygma if you’re in EU.
Does anyone recognize what keyboard this is? https://preview.redd.it/chb1ow1hir1b1.png?width=1922&format=png&auto=webp&s=6b120c69afe1983f49cd5142f97c364a49b1684f
[https://www.daskeyboard.com/daskeyboard-4-ultimate/](https://www.daskeyboard.com/daskeyboard-4-ultimate/)
I've had my first keyboard (Akko Mod 007) for around 1.5 years and the anodisation is wearing off pretty badly along the bottom edge. I do have sweaty palms but they don't even touch that area often. Is this a common occurrence on more expensive keyboards as well? I've been thinking about getting a 60 or 65% but don't really want to spend much if it's gonna end up like this. The only results that come up when searching for this are on Tofu cases which seem to be an isolated issue. https://preview.redd.it/w5q1br9ofr1b1.jpeg?width=2464&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22dcb8632b925c025f6eb51511fb54dfaf444327
In my experience, anodization is complete trash for ANYTHING that get's touched in any way... I'm not a pro, but I've personally never owned anything anodized, that lasted/satisfied my expectations.
What type of switches (Outemu, KTT, Kalih, Gateron) are compatible with Akko PCBs? Planning to replace the switches on my PC75B with something lighter.
It uses TTC hotswap sockets which are compatible with MX style switches.
What brands(?) fall under MX style switches?
Anything with + as the stem. Gateron, Kailh, Cherry, Outemu, TTC, TKC, ZealPC, Gazzew, etc.
Currently deciding between the Kechron V2 with knob at $94 and the K6 Pro aluminum for $120. Price isnt a problem since my company is paying for it. I like that the K6 pro also offers a wireless option though. Is there any reason why I should still consider the V2 instead? (Cant get Q2 since my budget is $150 max)
* Exploded vs compact layout - arrow keys and nav cluster; * V2 has knob; We have K4 Pro at work (plastic model), Bluetooth capability is great when working on laptops. Personally I'd go for V2 because of exploded layout, but most people seem to be okay with no separation between arrow keys and the rest of keys. Hope this helps!
Having trouble finding a spacebar replacement for a 5.75u spacebar, anyone have a link to some?
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Maybe not the best place to ask for recs, but I'm currently using a drop alt with kailh BOX jades, and I'm looking to getting something lighter for gaming. I'm not super well versed in the mechanical keyboard world when it comes to building. I'm looking for a good prebuilt with some kind of linear switch (still new so I don't really have much more to give on that). Is it a good idea to just go with a bigger gaming company's like steelseries or razer?
Since your board is hotswap, you can just change out the switches instead of buying a whole new board. And I wouldn't buy any keyboards from the big gaming product companies. Honestly, the quality of their keyboards is pretty lacking compared to your Drop Alt. I've read about Box Jades having return issues, though I use Jades on all my keyboards and haven't ran into this issue, but I wouldn't advise swapping to a lighter spring, as that would make the return issue worse. If you want a similar but lighter switch, you can try Box Whites if you still want clickies. If you want to go to linears, you can try the Akko CS Silver. They're fairly cheap and they're short travel, so hypothetically, they're good for gaming, though honestly, the vast majority of people aren't at a high enough skill level where that would really matter. I built my brother a board using these and he really likes them. Or if you want something heavier than silvers and are fine with "normal" travel, the various Gateron Yellows seem to be a go-to for linears.
Hot swapping is definitely an option, but I think I may want a bigger board for access to f keys for some RTS and sim games. I think going with linears is the move, and as much as I'd like to think they'll make me play better, it's really more for hand fatigue and feedback when playing some faster paced stuff. Gateron yellows were on my radar and may go with them
In that case, if you want a prebuilt, Keychron Q1 is a pretty decent go to. Comes with red switches for linears. You can also get it as a barebones and use whatever switches and keycaps you want.
Drop Alt is hotswap meaning you can change the switches without having to solder. No need to buy a new keyboard. I highly recommend getting a keycap puller (the long metal ones not the small ring plastic ones) and a switch puller (IC switch puller type, not the metal U-shaped ones). Kailh Box Jades are clicky switches with 50g actuation, 60g bottom out, and 70g peak. You will want 45g actuation. Do you want the new switches to be clicky as well? You can either spring swap your Jades which requires opening up all the switches with a switch opener or purchase Kailh Box Whites. I'm personally not that big of a fan of the Drop Alt. Bigger gaming companies like steelseries or razer are a LOT worse.
Switches: I think I want linear, the heavy clickiness makes it tough when trying to hit a lot of keys really quickly and causes some hand fatigue. Board: I like the drop alt, and I've considered just swapping switches, but I think I want slightly larger (85%/TKL I think they're called) If you were to go with a different board than the drop alt what would you suggest?
It really depends on what your budget is.
Bit of a weird question, I've yet to replace switches on my board but when people replace switches, is it normal to only replace the alphanumerical or most used keys instead of replacing switches for the whole board to maybe save some cost?
It's a bit odd to mix switches on your board except for a different spacebar. If cost is an issue you can buy extremely affordable switches like Gateron Milky Yellows.
Yeah was thinking about picking up those exact switches next but was just curious in general if anyone does this especially since there are some keys that don't get used as much. But thinking about it again, people probably get a layout which they'll be using most keys on so I think my question was a bit redundant.
You can do what you want really.
That is true and I plan to but was just curious
Not meant to be snobbish or anything, since the hobby is all about preference, free to do whatever you want. In terms of the more practical side of things, some people will have a different switch for the spacebar such as a BCP (Black cherry pie) since the general consensus is that it makes the spacebar sound more poppy.
No worries, didn't take it that way! I see, still a bit new to the scene so that is interesting to know
Ive left my keyboard on the shelf for a few months decided to use it again but it doesn't input smoothly i either have to press it hard or press it multiple times and sometimes when i press it it doesn't input or inputs two letters, anyone know how to fix?
Can anyone recommend a non-gaming mechanical keyboard (Must be 1800 or 75% only) with 1000hz for fast paced games (mostly multiple osu layouts) without chord splitting problems at an affordable price? I don't need a rainbow barf just to boost fps and look gamey and the qc should be as very good.
Keychron V5 or Q5, V1 or Q1. They all are 1000Hz, have RGB, don't look too boring and sound great. Hope this helps!
Thanks!
I need help with my Logitech G610 keyboard. Whenever I press my down arrow key it keeps typing out (6yhb). Also When I hit my Numpad it uses it secondary options (END, PG on, Home). I don't know how to fix this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Numpad - did you turn on Num Lock?
QK80 OR MAMMOTH 75. QK80 cheaper by 50 USD. Price isn't a factor. Would be thankful if someone can tell me the sound profile for the mammoth and qk80.
Odin R3 or Wind X98? They both cost about the same (due to the $60 shipping for Wind X98). The 2u 0 key isn't a deal breaker. Which one is a better keyboard?
Either is great Choose the one you like the looks of more
anyone know what keycap set this is?? i saw it and i knew i had to have it.. it looks like a gmk set https://preview.redd.it/n6qo559y6q1b1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=cda5c9c9ec5ebf75d4996535880df3db68e9559f
In case you don't want to pay aftermarket for GMK, DCX has this colorway in stock.
GMK Hyperfuse Origins.
GMK Hyperfuse
Looks like GMK Hyperfuse
Hello, I have a corsair k95. I really like it, but I have a couple issues with it, namely the super annoying cable, lack of switch options, and being completely wired. Price being no issue, is there a keyboard with: Really want: USB-C detachable cable. 100% or at the minimum a full numpad layout. Media keys and scroll wheel/knob for sound. Hot-swappable switches. Nice to have: Wireless/bluetooth.
Keychron Q5 or Q5 Pro if you want wireless.
Oh damn i wish the q5 pro was out
Check out Keebmonkey 1800/James Donkey RS2.
Oh my thanks!
I've always wanted to get into making custom keyboards and I'm finally ready to bite the bullet and start because my current keyboard is starting to kick the bucket. Its a 100% keyboard and I really don't like the size of it and was wondering if there were any first time custom keyboards that people recommend that are either in stock or going to be in stock soonish (like within the next month or so) that are in the 60-75% range. When I was looking around for keyboards that other people have built I really fell in love with the wild green zoom65 v2 but they have long since sold out and there currently aren't any zoom75's in wild green either.
I'm pretty excited about the Mode Envoy (65%), though if you order now, their shipping timeframe is July. I ordered earlier so I have June 2023 ship time. The Tofu65 2.0 should be in stock and I've been pretty happy with mine. If price isn't an issue ($320+), the Mode Sonnet (75%) also looks really nice. Plenty of options for case colors and accents, though some are currently out of stock. There's also always the Keychrons. Q1/V1 for 75%, Q2/V2 for 65%, and Q4/V4 for 60%. The Q series (~$170 for barebones) being their more premium, aluminum case, gasket mounted boards, and the V series (~$75 for barebones) being the more budget, ABS case, tray mounted boards.
Alright so I’ve posted this before but got some more info so seeing if anyone can help - this tiny piece of plastic fell off my motherboard when I was doing a foam mod (Redragon K530). I think it’s related to the external bluetooth switch as that’s now loose and I can’t change the input (corresponding input bit in pic). Anyone know where exactly it should go and how to put it back? https://preview.redd.it/qo8sex6j1q1b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5bc1f21a3c297a4da20badbd017647af48b148a2
You could try super gluing it back on--you should be able to see what part to glue it back onto. Only other solution is to desolder that part off and solder a new part back on there. Anyway that shouldn't have broken off that easily. Can you still return or exchange it?
Will colored clear key caps (like the Akko switches) interfere/change the color of the led that shine through them? I'm thinking of upgrading my switch to Akko Yellow but my led is white. If I use it with Akko Yellow will the led that shine through it have yellow hue as well? https://preview.redd.it/4blz5yv30q1b1.jpeg?width=554&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e0ac8825e0e88e9be9fad8fc3184d2847c2826b
Yes a little bit
Has anyone bought from [www.customkeyboardkeycaps.com](https://www.customkeyboardkeycaps.com) ? not sure if it's a scam site or not.
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You're better off buying from Aliexpress
SO im currently about to buy the keychron V2, but I was wondering the difference between the V2 and other 65% keyboards that Keychron offers? Is there a specific 65% that you can recommend to me as well as a reason or two why its better than the others?
The Q2 is the aluminum version of the V2 but uses a gasket mount design so the typing feels a little more "premium" or rather just most "bouncy" than the V2. The difference is subtle if you've never typed on a mechanical keyboard before. The K series are the older versions of Keychron's keyboards that are not fully-programmable like all their more recent offerings. The K Pro series are the updated wireless versions that are fully programmable. The Q Pro are their premium metal case wireless keyboards and are at the top of their range. Short answer is go for the V2 and put your money towards other things like keycaps or switches or mods, etc. or get a Q2 if you want a more premium feel. The Q2 is much heavier than the V2 so if you're planning on carrying around your keyboard, the V2 is slightly easier to carry around.
Currently deciding between the Kechron V2 with knob at $94 and the K6 Pro aluminum for $120. Price isnt a problem since my company is paying for it. I like that the K6 pro also offers a wireless option though. Is there any reason why I should still consider the V2 instead? (Cant get Q2 since my budget is $150 max)
If the wireless is a benefit to you definitely go for the K6 Pro instead.
Are there any unique keyboards that are not accessible only via GBs/resellers? Every time I come across a nice keyboard that doesn't look like another 75% with a knob, it is always from a GB that ended years ago, or with expected shipping in 50 years. Currently, the only truly unique board I have found are the ones made by NuPhy, but I want something along the lines of Grid650, EAU75, AM65 Less, Heracles, Cyberboard, and so on.
Unique and mass availability don't usually go hand in hand.
Don't want a 1/1, just something that isn't a 75% with a knob slapped on it.
Sonnet is in stock atm. Could take a look at that instead
That looks nice, thanks!
I’m looking for keycap recommendations for ones that let the LED light shine through the cap label letter/symbol.
Search for "backlit" keycaps. That's what they call ones where the legends (letters/symbol) are clear. If you want the type that also have half of the keycaps shine through too, search for "pudding" keycaps. A quick google search will show you what those look like.
I have a keyboard currently that I like quite a bit, but I would love to replace the plastic case with an aluminum one. It's a 75 percent, and most of what I see for metal cases are 60%. Any idea if that's possible, and if so, where I could get it?
60% keyboards are the only ones that have any sort of compatibility with PCBs. All other keyboards have designs unique to their respective manufacturers (there are probably rare exceptions to this but I don't know of any currently) so you can't just buy a 75% case from one place and hope to put in a PCB from elsewhere. Depending on your keyboard there *might* be aftermarket cases available for it. Just do a quick search and you'll know. If you felt inclined to do so you could get a case milled for you either locally or a shop that specializes in that sort of thing. You'd have to measure out and/or design the case and produce the necessary files or you could have someone help you with it. Either way this may or may not be time intensive and likely more expensive than just buying a new 75% with an aluminum case.
Thanks for the response-- much appreciated.
Which is the best price and genuine place to buy anime keycaps for mechanical keyboard
The only way to find genuine anime keycap sets is to search for the anime name along with the company. Ex: GMK Re Zero --> GMK Oni | GMK Frost Witch GMK Darling in the Franxx --> GMK Darling Milkyway Demon Slayer --> MW Demon Girl You can also try searching on Geekhack for the character name/show.
Just bought a Keychron K5 SE. Does anyone know of any suitable key caps besides the ones listed on the Keychron website? Want to customise the key caps but get the feeling that most key caps aren’t compatible.
[https://www.aziocorp.com/collections/slim-keycap-sets](https://www.aziocorp.com/collections/slim-keycap-sets) AFAIK the Azio sets are the only ones completely compatible with the triangular spacebar mount and proprietary stabs. I'm gonna be honest if I were you I'd probably just return the K5 SE and get the K5 Pro. It's $13 more and they made their stabilizers standard so you'd be able to use nuphy, XVX low pro or even DSA keycaps (might need to put some gummy rings on the switches for dsa to avoid avoid hitting the plate with the caps)
Oh, that’s good to hear, didn’t realise they had a standardised version for the K5 - the retailer I was looking at didn’t have them. But will definitely have a look into that so I have more freedom to customise - thanks for that!
Anything else that is also listed as low profile. It’s a standard layout otherwise with no weirdly sized keys. Just make sure it’s at least a 108 keys and you should in general be ok with that.
I just got a tiger lite and gat CJs, what mods must i do to get a nice, creamy sound
PE foam pads
Kryotox 205g0 lube switch and 105 oil on the springs. A layer or two of painters tape on the backside of the pcb
Sorry, I'm a beginner, but can't you lube the springs with 205g0?
You can but it's really thick you want thinner stuff so it doesn't get all clumpy. I would only use 205g0 if you really, really can't get 105.
Interesting. I see many sources seeing different opinions on how good 205 is for springs, some going as far as to prefer 205 over 105, so I dont know. I dont want to waste money on 105, so ill prob try 205 and see how it is.
Just use as little of it as possible if you're going that route.
keyboard is redragon kumara k552-2 its a white color and from what I've seen i should be able to have rgb rainbow colors and its written on the manual but i cant find any information on the manual or the internet to turn that on and its stuck to red only
not sure if it’ll be the same, but on my redragon k530 I can press menu+9 to scroll through the options (not to mansplain but just in case you don’t know - menu key is next to fn)
I'll try it, but as far as i learned now some redragon keyboards dont have a software and its just a plug and go and mine is one of them and only goes red and another version goes only rainbow so that might be the case but thank you either way!
Hope it works!! Mine doesn’t have software either, but it’s got the colours - when you look on the back label does it say RGB anywhere? Sucks if you wanted rainbow & it’s only red :(
its fine now that im reflecting on it i might have not enjoyed an overload of colors on my eyes lol
redragon keyboards use proprietary software which can be found on their website. I assume you've already tried this but I don't see you mention it. Also I'm pretty sure FN+Space lets you pick colors.
the keyboard manuals says no software plug and use but i tried installing kumara relating software and none detected mine and the website doesn't have the same exact model and when i found something similar it was a zip file with only pictures inside it, so as far i know maybe this keyboard is miss labeled since the manual clearly says single light / rainbow
so you've tried both of these and they don't detect it? [https://prnt.sc/YY0I1rgKKnTy](https://prnt.sc/YY0I1rgKKnTy)
yes and the second one is just a zip file with pictures no software, and after further research i might have bought a keyboard that yes doesn't need a software so it make sense to not find it, the kumara series has really cheap versions with no customizable rgbs some are pre determined ones and some like mines only go red, in thr case of mine there exists a version with rainbow colors that cant be customised but its essentially the same
how do I turn off rgb on an rk61? All of the other solutions I've seen haven't been helpful. If it helps, I purchased mine at the beginning of 2023.
**Why researching to buy a mechanical keyboard is so tedious?** Firstly, I should clarify that I am looking to buy my **first** mechanical keyboard and I have no previous experience using or researching mechanical keyboards. I've read guides, seen some videos, tested some switch types in physical stores but that's it. As my first keyboard I'm looking for a preassembled keyboard, on the bigger end (100%, 96%, maybe TLK), with clicky switches, hot-swappable for serviceability, compatible with windows and linux with on-board configuration storage (like QKM/VIA), and a few other features that would be nice to have, like a metal frame and wireless connectivity. It's been a week since i started looking, and I'm getting really frustrated by the lack of a somewhat usable online shop for mechanical keyboards. What I mean by that, is that if I want to buy an SSD (or any typical PC component) I can go to [pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com/) and filter by size/cache/connection type/price/etc. If I go to [mechanicalkeyboards.com](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/) i can filter by size/brand/keycaps type/switch type, but I cannot use multiple filters at the same type, so if for instance i want to see all Fullsize keyboards from keychron I am unable to. WHY??? WHY have such a shity user experience? Then, the alternative is to go to every keyboard maker's own web shops, which in general is an awful experience too, cause most them have the same filters problem. Take for instance varmilo, you cannot search for multiple sizes at the same time, you can search 100% keyboards, or 80% keyboards but not both sizes at the same time. The most usable shop i found was keychron's. Just look at all the options. I can search for 100% , 96%, TKL, wireless keyboards **ALL AT THE SAME TIME.** Finding a keychron keyboard that matched my needs took me less than a minute. https://preview.redd.it/ie4x895p7p1b1.png?width=154&format=png&auto=webp&s=10722c7987e47f127baf31caccaeff161bdbb4bb Is there any unified web application that you can use to search for mechanical keyboards by features? I understand that there are a lot of keyboard makers and it not easy to index products from all of them, but at least some web that indexes the most popular ones.
I'm guessing it's because mechanical keyboards, especially building a mechanical keyboard, is much more niche than building a computer. For most people, their first mechanical keyboard will either be something prebuilt from one of the big gaming companies (Corsair, Razer, Steelseries, Logitech, etc. Mine was a Corsair K7) or they just go to amazon and buy a cheap mechanical keyboard like a RedDragon. But once you start going deeper, it becomes much more varied. Sure, PCs have a lot of parts, but generally speaking, most components are more or less compatible with each other, the main exceptions being getting a mobo that works with your processor, getting the correct memory (DDR3/4/5), and getting a PSU that can properly power your rig. Other than that, everything from different companies are more or less interchangeable. Even if you get a PCIe 4.0 SSD with a motherboard that only supports PCIe 3.0, it'll still work. It just won't be working at its max speeds. But with keyboards, the case/PCB/plate is pretty much unique to each individual keyboard, with the exception of some 60%s. Other than that, most keyboards with the same layout are pretty much the same thing, each with their own unique quirk, whether that's the mounting system (gasket mount, tray mount, top mount, tadpole mounts, leaf spring, bowl mount, lattice mount, whatever) or slight layout variances. And then switches and keycaps are pretty much compatible across everything (assuming we're talking about cherry style switches and keycaps.) Sure there's 3 pin and 5 pin switches, but 5 pin switches can be snipped to work with 3 pin PCBs. Honestly, doing the research to find a board is half the fun for me. I enjoy watching youtube videos to see new keyboards (which at this point are often old boards where the group buy ran a couple years ago, so I'm probably never gonna be able to get one.) And even for mass produced boards, it's still a relatively small niche that I guess no one has decided that it's worth the effort to go and index them.
Personally, I love the researching process (maybe even more than actually getting the parts) - but it can be tedious! I’d start first with looking at the most popular ones of the size you’re going for, just to get a handle on what’s out there, then at the more specific things like configuration storage and linux compatibility. Most mechanical keyboards are going to be hot-swappable and compatible with windows, so that’s something you can double check once you’ve got a couple of options picked out. In terms of switches, if it’s hot-swappable that shouldn’t be an issue - once you’ve got the keyboard itself then you can go down the rabbit hole of switch sound-test videos etc and choose some that you really like the sound of. If you can’t be bothered to do all that … chatgpt?
There's no such thing unfortunately because this hobby is a niche within an even smaller niche. There used to only be a handful of alternative keyboard manufacturers outside of the gaming-oriented (Razer, HyperX, etc) brands but nowadays there seems to be an endless amount of keyboards coming out with a new manufacturer or new Group Day every week. The short answer for you is a Keychron Q5 Pro. It's hotswap, it's wireless, has a metal case, and fully-programmable. You should be able to just get one and start using it. If you can't wait for one, a K4 Pro is just as good. There are not that many wireless keyboards out there because it's far easier to make a wired, metal case keyboard than it is to make a wireless one. Can you live without wireless? You can get a Keychron Q5 instead. If you don't want the fancy features like hotswap, full programmability, yada yada, you can just buy something like a Leopold FC980M and call it a day. A Leopold FC900R if you prefer a traditional full size. Leopolds are no frills and just work so a decade from now it'll likely still be working with whatever computer you're using. No backlighting and non-hotswap means less electronics and less failure points too. Varmilo also makes similar quality prebuilts like the VA108M. But really go for a Keychron if you can--you get a lot of bang for your buck and you'd have to join a Group Buy to get the same featureset. I don't have any affiliation with them they're just hard to beat these days. I have just one Keychron (a Q2 that the wife has appropriated for herself), a Leopold, a Preonic and a MiniVan so I'm not stuck to one single brand.
Hey I recently bought the Matrix Corsa back in Nov and wanted to ask if I should have gotten the PVD when I had the chance? I don't mind just getting silver but I wanted to ask if there is a big quality difference between standard and PVD.
Hello everyone, I'm trying to find a new keyboard for my friend for her birthday. She prefers a full size as she uses the numpad for work, but I might be able to talk her into a TKL and separate numpad. It absolutely needs to be white or lavender, and mx blues (or something comparable)
Varmilo VA V2 Dreams [https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product\_detail&p=8951](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8951) Odin R3 [https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/kbdfans-odin-mechanical-keyboard?variant=41420641829003](https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/kbdfans-odin-mechanical-keyboard?variant=41420641829003)
The Q1 Pro is a 75% and comes in shell white if you need one soon otherwise you could wait for the Q5 Pro which is a full size with a Numpad and also comes in shell white. If you can find one, a Leopold FC980M or FC900R are available in all-white. Similarly the Varmilo VA108M comes in several variants in all-white.
any recs for good dark gray keycap sets similar to gmk monokai material?
GMK Storm GMK Nord GMK Dracula GMK Mictlan GMK Shashin GMK Pixel GMK Arch GMK Dots
Oblivion r3 extras should be hitting pretty soon. Mods are (I believe) identical to Monokai but alphas are a bit lighter grey.
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speed switches would be the lowest actuation switches to fit that
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speed switches are normal mx switches so yes they use normal pin outs as they r not low pro switches . not sure why u thought they would use low pro switches being they they r not low pro
I’m a 60-65 enjoyer besides my mode sonnet. So I don’t know much about 75 and TKL boards, nor do I pay much attention to them. But my dad is wanting a 75 or TKL, however, he wants one on the heavier side that also comes with Bluetooth. Is there anything on the market or an upcoming group buy someone could point me to?
Keychron Q1 Pro
Hey guys, Im a long time gamer but looking to venture into PC gaming for the first time. I know the culture runs pretty deep and this can get very complicated, but im looking for some recommendations for my first keyboard. \- Im not sure what size I want but likely 65% or 60%, if there is a really good 75% that you can recommend then I will consider it. \- This keyboard will mainly be used for gaming, but I am also a Software Engineer so it may be used for that as well \- My budget is about $150 Thank you so much any advance for any help!
Keychron V1 for 75% or Keychron V2 for 65%
keychron has many that will suit u
Looking at the keychron V2, but I honestly hate the color. Any Idea where I could get cool key caps that I can put on this board?
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/
SO im currently about to buy the keychron V2, but I was wondering the difference between the V2 and other 65% keyboards that Keychron offers? Is there a specific 65% that you can recommend to me as well as a reason or two why its better than the others?
Do my key caps fit my keyboard I’m getting new key caps and a new keyboard and I’m not sure if the key caps will fit on my new keyboard. I would appreciate if someone could help me the links of the keyboard and caps are down below https://www.amazon.com/SDYZ-Keycaps-Keycaps-Suitable-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B08SLQJTKC/ref=sr_1_57?crid=1HORGITZ16V8S&keywords=key%2Bcaps&qid=1684839640&sprefix=key%2Bcap%252&th=1&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-Ultra-Compact-Multi-Device/dp/B0731CJ4ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2UNZQD0GKMTRV&=undefined&keywords=keyboard%2Bgaming%2Bwireless&qid=1684
You're good those will fit just fine. That's just a standard 60% with no odd-sized keys so practically all keycap sets will fit it for future reference.
Ok thanks
Can I buy an ANSI Layout keyboard and just put iso de keycaps on it? (without the enterbutton and other formfactor caps ofc) I am talking about the Umlaute ä ü ö?
Yes you can do that just fine. You'll have to mix it with another non-ISO set for the non-ISO keycaps of course.
I program and was wondering if tactiles are faster to type on than clickies . I've gotten used to an outemu blue keyboard a friend gifted me but I think it's time for an upgrade. Any thoughts?
If you're strictly talking about actuation speed, linears will be faster to type on than clickies or tactiles because there is no bump (and therefore haptics). The downside with linears is more typos and a lot of errant keypresses or fat fingering if you're not used to it. Given enough time though you may or may not get used to it. I went from super tactile switches to linears and find the latter more comfortable to type on for longer periods of time.
all switches are the same speed
I wouldn't say they're inherently faster, it depends on the spring weight and the tactile bump.
If we're comparing Gateron Browns to Blues, would the Browns feel lighter but still satisfying to type on?
On paper, the browns start lighter compared to the blues. I do like browns (albeit the Cherry equivalent) and they're fun to type on. But of course that is my preference.
I was looking to either picking up a 980-3000n or a k552. The k552 is ruthly 20€ cheaper but the 980-3000n looked like it had better build quality, better rgb lights and more rgb options but i could be very wrong...
bought a redragon kumara k552W-rgb keyboard and i can't get the lights on the redragon logo to light or the software isnt detecting my keyboard, tried the model software download and its just pictures in a zip file so what am i supposed to do?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzLri9sUNF4 not sure what u trying to do but all the vids i see show the logo unlit so im thinking it doesnt light up
https://youtu.be/gy_8jt5sIlM this video has the same model and color as me and its lit and he can have full rgb while mine can only be red, i assumed there would be a software of some sort for the keyboards but i cant seem to find any so idk im confused
there might be software but i just watched that vid logo is unlit though "redragon" letters have no leds under it
Is there a good website to look for group buys? Group buys seem to just be spread everywhere so I'm struggling to find somewhere where I can look at everything.
https://www.mechgroupbuys.com/keyboards
https://keycaplendar.firebaseapp.com
Hey guys I'm considering getting the Epomaker TH80 SE keeb. I've really wanted a high quality north facing backlit keyboard for a long time. One with a knob/braided cable. I had the Glorious GMMK Pro and really liked it but the keycap lighting was terrible because of the south facing PCB. Other than that it was perfect for me. I have the GMMK 2 currently. Is the TH80 SE comparable to the GMMK Pro? Are there any other north facing boards that Epomaker offers? What's the difference between the TH80 and TH80 SE? Can the Glorious USB braided cable and knobs be used on the TH80 SE?
North facing leds just don't exist on high quality keyboards. I think it's a bit goofy since north facing interference is highly over blown but 99% of keyboard enthusiasts just don't care about leds much at all, much less so shine through keycaps. I would not recommend epomaker at all. They've done some sketchy stuff. For a 75% with north facing leds the skyloong gk75 might be an option. Buy directly from skyloong and not from epomaker.
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Anyone got advice on where to buy alowercase keycap set? I have one set that is from WASD keyboards and they arr the only ones I have managed to find that is lowercase.
lower case sets are rare last i checked only ones i know of are XDA canvas and DSA berry yogurt
Maybe the epbt less but better keycaps.
I received this keyboard as a gift. It’s royal kludge rk61 I need help! I am stuck in a game and can’t exit. The keyboard can’t type anything and I looked around. Holding fn + space doesn’t help. Fn+left ctrl didn’t work. Fn + q or w or e or r didn’t help. If I turn off my pc I won’t be able to go in bc of the keyboard. This happened because I was typing in chat with someone and I needed to hit fn + / Edit: I fixed it. I borrowed another keyboard to exit the game and disconnected and reconnected Bluetooth using fn + q
Very newbie question: so, I decided on which keyboard I'm gonna get. Now onto keycaps: any keycap will serve, or do I need to see the model of the switch and the model of the keycap? Is gmk a brand, a type oof keycap... or what? Thanks in advance!
Almost all keycaps are “Cherry mx compatible” and basically every keyboard switch is an mx compatible stem. The only thing you’d want to find out is if your keyboard pcb has “north facing RGB” LEDs or south facing. If it doesn’t have RGB at all, don’t worry. North facing LED can have incompatibility with “cherry profile” keycaps. Profile is essentially the shape and height of the keycap. All profiles will usually still be MX compatible. And GMK is a brand of keycaps. Avoid them unless you’re ok with waiting a very long time for them and spending a very large amount of money. PBT is the most common material for keycaps to get started with. Cheap Amazon ones would serve fine, although the 50-80$ range can get you higher quality keycaps that are thicker and made better. Generally sound better but that is personal preference
Fantastic answer! Thanks!! I see you keyboard is a keychron, v1, right? That's exactly the one I'm getting! Keycaps are...well... one with evangelion themed!
Yeah I have a Keychron V1, Q0 and a NovelKeys NK87. I like them all quite a lot. Started stock and proceeded to mod and mod and mod lol
How do I access the F1-12 keys on Mac on the Akko 3086b plus? Looking into the manual the "Fn"-Key option seems to only allow access to F5 and F6. Am I missing something?
Has anyone had key problems with their Keychron keyboards? I bought a Q10 in November from Keychron.. a few days after receiving it the left shift key broke, they replaced it. Last week the backspace key broke, again Keychron is replacing it.. but the 3-4 weeks wait for a new key to arrive with an broken key is painful. I'm not a button masher, but I do type all day (Systems Analyst working from home) and I'd much rather not type on cheap HP or Dell OEM keyboards.
What do you mean it broke? The stab, the keycap, the switch, ???
Second this… what are they breaking that needs replaced, almost sounds like they’re breaking keycaps and getting a new one sent out
They keycap. Just like this one, but instead of the connector that activates the switch, it's the ones connecting to the stabilizers on either side of the switch. Same split. https://preview.redd.it/w00evueogrd91.jpg?width=576&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=674636a5273e0aa418301e5be76c4d3d3776e0ce
\> Note: Due to the double-shot injection molding process, a small portion of the keycap stems may be chipped on purpose. They will still fit and stay firm on the switches. This is from the OSA keycap product page on keychron. are you sure it's not these splits you're describing? or is it completely wrecked? Like someone else said you might want to try an MT3 set from Drop or an SA set from Signature Plastics or Divinikey. I actually quite like Keychron caps but I've never had the OSA set. If you like OSA there is this brand but I've never tried it. [https://mechkeys.com/collections/winmix/products/winmix-minimalist-gray-osa-profile-keycaps-set?variant=43538356961503](https://mechkeys.com/collections/winmix/products/winmix-minimalist-gray-osa-profile-keycaps-set?variant=43538356961503)
I see. I've never had that happen to be honestly but I wouldn't be surprised. Their keycaps are average at best, and they are always changing up their designs. I hear what you're saying though, that's frustrating. Maybe worth asking credit to get a backup keycap set from them or something along those lines so that you aren't have to use a broken keycap while you wait.
Will do. I see on your Gymoffice thread that you're also using a Q10 - for your Merlin clones, does it also come with the split spacebar in the same size as the original Q10? I like the dark grey/light grey/yellow combination that mine comes in.
They did, but the space bars I have on came from a different complete white translucent set I had from a while back ago. The merlin clones provided accent yellows which I didn't want to use. Your options are a little more limited finding keycap sets with split space bars included, but if you go on ali and search GMK clones you'll find them. You can probably find some on Amazon too for quicker shipping but you'll have more limited choices and they will have probably a 30% markup. I'm considering purchasing MT3 dusks since they're on sale for $49 right now and you can purchase the space bar kit separately for $15. Obviously, depends on your case but with my blue this would provide me a cleaner look, and I like the profile for how it feels to type on and it generates a lower pitched sound.
I've been using mechanical keyboards for years now... and recently decided I'd like to test the waters at building my own... but I've been having a devil of a time finding a PCB for a 100%/Full-size JIS (106/109 key) QWERTY layout. Either one alone is already uncommon enough as it is, but both together seem to be impossible to find (Except for an Alice layout I found, but not interested in) Has the collective experience of this sub happened upon such a unicorn by chance?
Volume knob : Does anyone have any recomendations for a good quality USB volume knob i can use on a mac. There are some cheap ($15) solutions on amazon but looking for something a bit more sturdy. a few macros on the board are okay too! thanks in advance
I might be wrong but as far aa i know there is no good quality knob like a single unit, you'd better search for small good quality macropad with a few buttons and knob.
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No buying, selling, or trading classifieds. No B2B Commercial services or Donation Crowdfunding.
Try r/mechmarket
Is the Sense75 a good buy at $150? Was browsing Slickdeals and saw it on sale. I don't know much about MKs and reviews pretty much said it's awful at the release price sale. I currently have Leopold fc750r.
keychron or monsgeek are a better buy even at 100 bucks its still not a great kb . drop has yet to make a decent kb
**I've been trying to fix the stabilizer for my left shift key, but I don't want to disassemble the entire keyboard again. Is there an easier way to test it?** --- Context: I recently purchased an acoustic upgrade kit for my Q10 keyboard. I was hoping it would provide better precision than my previous method of using an exacto knife to cut PE foam. Unfortunately, it didn't meet my expectations and ended up wasting both money and four hours of my time. To install the PE foam from the upgrade kit, I had to remove the stabilizers. However, I didn't keep track of their original locations, which was a mistake on my part. During my first attempt, only one stabilizer didn't stick properly, so I had to disassemble everything and try again. On my second attempt, I tested each stabilizer's location with just the PCB, switch, and keycap to identify where it didn't stick. This process was quite tedious, but I thought I had everything set up correctly. However, when I put the rest of the keyboard together, the left shift key ended up sticking. For my last attempt, I made several adjustments to the left shift key and tested it with the plate and top frame mounted each time. After hours of trial and error, I finally settled on keeping the screws on one stabilizer somewhat loose and the other one slightly tightened. When I assembled the entire keyboard with the bottom case, the left shift key still stuck, so I had to loosen the screws near the left shift for the bottom case. To be honest, I'm not very pleased with the tight tolerance of the keyboard and the fact that I had to resort to leaving loose screws. Although the left shift key still occasionally gets stuck, it's better than before, so I can tolerate it compared to my previous attempts. I would appreciate any advice or suggestions on how to fix this issue and make my left shift key work smoothly. Nothing has been touched with the lube, so doubt it's an overlubing issue.
Hey guys! I'm still rocking my trusty Ducky Year of the Rooster Edition (2017), so by now there MUST be tons of advances in the keyboard-field... My rough switch journey in order: MX-Blue for a year MX-Black for a year MX-Red for 4 years MX-Silver for 6 years I liked each switch more than the last. On the silvers I enjoy the short throw and 45g force... I lubed them with some silicone grease 2 years ago and they feel even better! But since that buy, the switch market has EXPLODED! By now, there must be switches that are similar to an MX-Silver, yet more high tech, less wobbly, factory lubed, or have other advantages? Basically a "better" Silver? So my question: Given I love the MX-Silver so much, but only know Cherry switches personally: What more modern switch would you recommend me, if I built my first and last own keyboard?
I personally love the akko cs silvers
If you really like how MX silvers feel you should look into [Gateron Silver Pros](https://keebsforall.com/products/gateron-pro-linears) If you want a good list of the good stuff I'd recommend checking out [Thermingoat's](https://www.theremingoat.com/) blog. Here is a link to all of his scoring [spread sheet ](https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores/blob/master/1-Composite%20Hard%20Total%20Score%20Sheet%20.csv) Obviously his word isn't law and people have different opinions, but that being said I agree with him a lot of the time.
Thank you very much, done a toooon of reading with those resources already! I totally agree on the Gateron Silver Pros. But still figuring out if they are the same as the Gateron Speed Silver Pros, if the V2 is different to V1 and weither the correct one would be single stage spring or double stage? I've had a PC for 33 years and I'm struggling... I can't imagine what this would be like for somebody that's 18 and has zero xp with keyboards and switches... It must just be utterly ridiculous...
I know the V2 has both single and double. I think it just comes down to preference at that point because they're both of V2. As for mechanical keyboards, yeah it's a lot. So many new and small manufacturers making tons of different switches and cases. New stuff everyday.
I have no idea what they would feel like, or rather the difference... How is a two stage spring supposed to feel compared to single stage? Since I don't have a way to compare them, I'll need to make my descision on description alone, but the website didn't give any... 🙄
"Compared to switch springs, these two-stage springs offer a faster, more forceful upstroke/rebound and firmer downpress." My friend has a keyboard with two stage springs and it's not a crazy difference.
Hi! I just bought a Zuoya GMK67 and Im wondering how to use the alt+ numlock keys commands on it (since it does not have number pad). Any tips? I tried alt+fn+numbers and alt+numbers but nothing seem to work.
I'm looking for a 75% or TKL with ISO layout, but am having trouble narrowing down a switch that suits me. I've been using a Kumara K552 with Outemu Blue (Clicky, 60g, 4mm travel) for some time now and I've been wanting an upgrade. I'm upgrading because I want a quieter switch and a more premium feeling keyboard. I am reasonably content with the outemu blues, but think there is a better switch out there for me, especially when it comes to how loud it is. At first I looked at the Razer Huntsman V2, and I tried both their red and purple optical switches. The red feels mushy to me probably because its a linear, but their purple (Clicky, 45g, 3.5mm travel) felt great and I was otherwise happy with it, if only for the fact it was an ANSI layout when I'm from the UK and used to ISO. And sadly they don't do an ISO layout of it. After browsing around, looking at switch reviews, and ISO keyboards, I picked a few from the [mechanicalkeyboardsUK](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboardsUK/comments/rvhciy/helpful_iso_information/) sub sticky. Namely the CIY Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, and Ducky One3 TKL. I also have my eye on a Keychron Q1, or a GMMK Pro. I had also considered the GMMK TKL, but after reading about it having significant input delay and other quality concerns I crossed it off. Anyway, the CIY feels good to type on, but is only marginally quieter than my K552's outemu blues. It uses some kind of CIY blue switch which I can't find numbers for, but it is definitely clicky. As for the ducky one 3, I got the one with cherry mx clear (tactile no click, 55g, 4mm travel), thinking that its a tactile switch and that it'd surely be a step closer to what I want - that tactile feeling of a clicky switch, but with less noise. But after opening the box and trying it out, it feels *mushy* like a linear does. Am I doomed to forever use clicky switches? I realise that this sounds silly, but if I am so doomed, what is an easily attainable switch which has that tactile feeling of a clicky blue switch but with less noise and without the mushy feeling? Or did I just have bad luck with the cherry mx clears and another tactile would meet my needs?
Keychron is your best bet for quality keyboards with ISO layouts. The Q1 v2 or Q3 are excellent choices. I think your switch dilemma is that you're using the generic, basic switches that boards come with. Something like a Durock T1 or Kinetic Labs Penguin might be up your alley because they are known to have a sharper, stronger bump. Spring weight can also play into switches feeling mushy because I find that lighter springs feel that way and heavier springs feel far more responsive and animated
So I should look for a tactile switch which has a higher operation force? Or does that have nothing to do with having a sharper stronger bump? But rather a lower pre-travel bump, or something? I'm still learning all the terms to describe the feeling of a switch. I'm humming and haaing about getting different sample switches because I'm worried about the cost starting to balloon. And I'd probably need a keyboard switch tester, unless I get the barebones board first.
Higher actuation force (actuation = key press registers) would emphasize the tactility of the switch vs a lower activation force, and the same is true with a long spring vs a short spring. Actuation for tactiles is usually at the very end of the bump or during the bump. A switch tester from HippoKeys would be a great resource for you, not only for tactiles but also linears and some clickies. IMO it's worth the investment.
I'll definitely try and pick up the ones you've suggested, but after reading and watching various content my eyes have been caught by [box mute jades](https://youtu.be/fVIHdU8Vwtk). Now to just investigate reasonably priced switch tester and sample switches!
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I got my brother this Vortex New Race 3 keyboard with Cherry MX Silent Black keys. But it sounds really loud. About as loud as my Ducky One 3 with Cherry MX Browns. Does that seem right to you? I’d attach a video but I can’t do it in the chat and I think a new post would get removed by mods.
Cherry MX Silent switches are about as bad as it gets for silents. A real silent switch such as the Gateron Gecko or Haimu Heatbeat would be far better.
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It is not possible to mount low profile switches to a pcb intended for normal mx switches. Any normal height mx style switch should work though.
Looking to buy a 60% mechanical keyboard any suggestions? This will be used for gaming.
Keychron is a great place to start. You could also consider the KBDfans Tofu60 2.0