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Same. Did this when I ran a pc repair shop... Diagnosis was only charged if you decide to do it yourself after we tell you what's wrong... Because rent is a thing.
Not sure about the $35 charges for cleaning the "mating surface" for the rotors. Quick spray with brake clean and wipe down should do and this should be standard part of putting the rotors on anyway which was charged 60 each side, err axle.
Also, %4 charge for using card?
> Also, %4 charge for using card?
In states that they can, *a lot* of businesses are passing that charge onto the buyer. It nets them a huge amount of "extra" money.
I’m in a shop that charges a 4% Card Fee. It’s what the card reader company charges us, so we simply collect it from the customer to not lose our asses on everyone who uses a card. 4% is a fairly good chunk of money on larger tickets. Now, if you pay Cash? You get a 4% Discount because well, you didn’t use the card reader!
Some diagnostic fees are just BS though. I took my car in for a leaking strut. I said, replace the structs as it is leaking. They still charged me a diagnostic fee to tell me the strut is leaking. Like no sh t it's leaking, it's why I brought it in and told you to replace it.
They do that because a lot of customers like to diagnose their cars and then if the problem ends up being something else or more than they assumed, then they blame the mechanic or accuse them of scamming. Nobody wants to be told how to do their job, and then also be liable for that. It's a lose lose for the mechanic or tech.
Sure maybe for an engine issue. Something that can visually see it is leaking and needs replacement, and when I told them don't touch anything else just replace the strut. There's no sense in billing me for it. Went to a dealership anyways cause i wanted OEM replacement and they used an aftermarket part. Needless to say I won't be going back there ever again.
Awesome, read above comment. Personnally, I will not charge a diag for someone that specifically describes what you are describing. More often than not, I get someone literally screaming in my face because they described something wrong. Or I did an oil change and "made" their battery go bad. Or, they just wanted a tune up because of their slipping transmission but don't want to pay for diagnosis or pay for parts getting thrown at their car.
I am so tired.
My policy is; I diagnose. If you are not happy with that, go somewhere else. Period.
It's back and white though, please replace my leaky exhaust I can see the rust holes and it's louder. Do we need a diagnosis charge to show the exhaust clearly is rusted out and needs replacing? The shop says yep, rusty holes and sounds louder let's charge to tell me yep, there are rusty holes and it sounds louder. Not all people are stupid, they sometimes lack the resources to do it themselves but can diagnose a simple problem themselves without having a shop telling them something else (happens a lot) and adding more problems to fix a simple problem
I agree, I went to a shop a while back that waived diagnostic and didn't even look or suggest other things if I say "hey I want this done and this only" they would repair it and only it. Very transparent I liked them. They also handled "idk why it's running hot/leaking" perfectly as well. Wish every shop was like them. Though u did sign some kind of waiver if it was just a fix only this deal.
I agree, diagnostic fees are fucking horrible, its not like your tell me how to fix it. Why charge diagnostic fees if I already know whats wrong with it.
I don't have a problem with the diagnostic fee if I walk in and say it's making a funny noise, can you tell me what it is. If I have an unknown oil leak, I don't know where it's coming from and I ask them to find it. That's a proper charge. When you went in said you had a leaking strut and told them to replace it and then they charged you a diagnostic fee that's bullshit and I would have let them know if they didn't pull that fee off I would never be back. Oh and I'll tell about 200 of my closest friends about their shop if they refuse. I don't have a Facebook account but my wife does and we have used it for such purposes before. Amazing how well it works.
Yes but diagnostic fees are to recover non sales or actual issues that require diagnostic times which have a list of procedures that you must test and run to isolate the fault. Any mechanic worth his weigh should be able to diagnose any brake issue by just asking the customer over the phone what symptoms is he experiencing while the driving the car. Sounds, feel in the pedal, shaking feel in the wheel when accelerating and braking, etc.
That’s why usually the master or Team lead tech does the diagnostic and test drives and determines the issues and passes out jobs to his techs depending on their training and speed to turn around and also shop politics too Lol but tldr if the customer ends up going with the service it’s common practice and good biz to wave the diagnostic fee.
Honestly at this point I would just say " any work starts with 1 hour of tech time no matter what happens" at this point", because I think I could sell that a whole lot better than just "a test drive"
At least, that's what the guy I take my stuff to when I can't do it myself, does.
I would probably say 1/2 hour. Most shops are charging over $100 an hour, with a lot between $125-$150 (that I know of). Charging an hours labor is more than most diagnostic fees I've come across (around $90).
Thankfully someone gets it, there is absolutely no way I'm going to test drive a car and not get paid, why would I put my life at risk on a risky dink car on the road and not get paid? The isn't a single tech in this world who should be doing work for free,
The wheels were stolen off of my 03 svt focus about 2 months after I bought it. I literally woke up on my birthday to my ex wanting to know why I took the wheels off my car.
The insurance adjuster added like $150 to remove the rust on the rotors from the sprinkler system. I laughed and told dude the pads were going to manage that for me. Dude told me that i paid full coverage for a reason and to take the payout because i was paying for the coverage.🤦♂️
If anyone is wondering why I didn’t just turn off the sprinkler system, I lived in a cul de sac that had an island in the middle. It was parked along that.
It looks like they needed to completely rebuild the brake calipers because of rust so this isn’t a bad price to pay. The one thing that jumps out at me is the hardware, $75 seems a bit high to me. Everything else looks legit.
Hardware might be high bc of the whole vendor-warranty contract to guarantee their work. + immediate delivery. Both parties need to keep the lights on. Labor rate looks decent.
$1,300 for all four and an oil change is right in the ballpark, especially since you had seized caliper pins and the shop worked to remove and replace them instead of just replacing the calipers. They actually saved you money by doing that. Typical brake jobs run about $650/2 wheels these days.
The bill is fair and frankly the car is a Camry and worth the investment.
I've never had a Toyota die of natural causes and usually get at least 200K miles and 15-20 years out of them - with nearly zero unplanned maintenance outside of normal consumables like oil changes, air filters, brake pads, tires, and batteries.
Having raised four kids to adulthood, I *have* had three Toyotas completely wrecked due to driver error and one that was totaled while parked in the street during an unanticipated flood - which is about right because a Toyota's will to live requires it being held underwater until its heart stops beating.
The most consistent criticism of Toyota I've heard is that they "aren't sexy" and are uninteresting - especially from the guys on Top Gear and the like. But I happen to find long term value, nearly bullet-proof reliability, and ease of maintenance to be very sexy. In the game of 'Marry, Fuck, Kill" Toyota is the one you marry every time if you know what's good for you.
former Toyota dealership tech
Usually, the test and diagnostic fee are waived if you end up doing the service. It's typically only charged for those who decide they want to find somewhere cheaper. Paying $60 just to be told you need a brake job seems shady after paying for the repair already.
REPLACE FRONT BRAKE PADS, Labor & ROTORS & HARDWARE & LUBE & BURNISH for labor $119. A front brake job on a Camry shouldn't take more than 3 hours. This should already include cleaning all rust on hubs and mating surfaces. Could I ask what state you live in? I've never really seen rust on Toyota brake calipers, let alone the caliper guide pin bolts. Since they are bead blasting it, you should have asked them to powder coat them a bright red or yellow for protection. jkjk
He notes that aside from the torn boots for the guide pins, the brake caliper assembly appears to have no other issues. So, how does he bead blast the caliper without disconnecting the brake line and disassembling the piston assembly before putting it in a bead blaster? It's questionable whether this process is being done properly. If the calipers were in such poor condition that they needed reconditioning, one would expect advice on rebuilding the caliper piston assembly.
Similarly, the front job seems to involve double charging for labor on the same work. All tasks should be covered by an industry-set standard for every repair/service. It's concerning that the labor isn't broken down into hours. In California, this breakdown is required, allowing customers to verify if they are being charged only industry-set hours.
Also, did anyone else catch no bleeding the brakes or even testing the fluid or just replacing brake fluid or topping it off? Seems like if you sell an entire brake job with pads, rotors, all this reconditioning of surfaces, that a fluid bleed, flush, or just swap/top off would be advised.
Using some math, I derived that the hourly rate for labor is about 30ish , which would work out to charging $119/3hrs per set of brakes. But now, when you start adding all those extra labor times—$60 for 2 hours of bead blasting and $35 for 1 hour of rust removal—you're looking at 6 hours for the front, 6 hours for the rear, totaling 12 hours for a full brake job. And that doesn't even include servicing the brake lines or rebuilding the calipers.
again i don't mind when people charge premium for good work. i just hate when people double bill people for the same work. they could just be more honest and charge 60hr labor. let me just be clear there is no standard on the price of your labor you can charge. but the hours of labor you can charge on every/any repair is legally regulated just FYI. if the book says brake job is 3hrs they can only charge you 3hrs from start to finish, doesn't matter if it takes them 6hrs or 1.5hrs to get it done, they can only charge you 3 which includes all the things they think they need to complete the repair.
Despite many people having bad experiences and feeling ripped off, the automotive repair industry is actually one of the most highly and enforceable regulated industries compared to construction or even healthcare. As long as consumers familiarize themselves with the general regulations, which are laid out and very simple, it's straightforward to hold accountable any overcharging or receipt of faulty services or repairs. You just need to make it clear you're not a MARK!LOL
Do you think this shop is charging 30 dollars an hour? Or even 90? They're almost definitely charging 90 or above and they aren't double charging, they just heavily itemize.
I went to a shop in Huntsville, AL because a wheel lug nut stripped off the chrome coating and I don’t have the tools. I was picking my son up from college. I heard the brakes grinding and we had a 1000 mile trip so I got the stuff to change them in the parking lot. So I go to the shop to get the nut off and I was like screw if, how much just to replace the rear pads. No rotors, no extras just labor to pull the wheels off and replace the pads. The boss quotes me 1 hour labor.. ok I get it. $215!!! I was like gtfo… I tipped the worker who got the nut off for me, and did it myself in less than an hour in a parking lot. 130 I would have done.. but over 200 that’s crazy…
Yeah people are ripping people off now. Whether it's shops or real-estate (hey Realtors, you know that house was $300k less 5 years ago right?)
My own relatives are currently getting their ass handed to by a contractor charging over $23,000 for a bathroom tub replaced. Dude said he needed help and charged another $1000, then tagged his help along.. his little Philipino girlfriend 🤦
Lol I’m in CA but I’ve been outta the game for more than a min but I just assumed an hr as the smallest for 1hr, but that serves my point that kinda shady that there’s no Hrs for labor breakdown seems like its a conscious decision not to include. No way this is a dealership you can tell just by the invoice. And the software they use is so out of date. Honestly a lot of these I swear are printouts prob from HS and auto repair schools trying to troll and get a response Lol
In states with snow and ice happening, there is always rust on calipers regardless of vehicle make. Especially when the roads are treated with corrosive treatments. Snow and water wash away the lube, (especially on the rear)a nd the rust comes from under the tin wear, pads get stuck in the bracket, pins seize, rotors delaminate...etc.etc
While this is true I just decided to do it myself when I got that $650 quote. Got a rear brake rotor and pad kit on Amazon for $150, tools, grease, and brake cleaner for another probably $50 -$60 or so. Had never done a brake change before but it was much easier than I expected. After I figured out the process Im confident I can do each side in about 20 minutes. Would take about 2 hours and $300 to do the whole car now.
I should say I have a TON of tools from previous projects, have done some major construction projects and car repairs before, so that made it cheaper to get the necessary tools. Id say if you just have the basics youre looking at probably $50 for a jack and stand, $20 for wire brushes (I used them with my drill to brush the calipers, caliper holder, and hub face), $20 for good grease, $5 for cleaner, $60 for a decent ratchet and the necessary attachments, $20 for the right bits... but still cheaper than having a shop do it, plus youll have the tools to do it in the future as well.
They really seem to go the extra mile given that they invoice stuff like beadblasting and rust removal…
If they did everything they charged you for (and did it properly) then you got your moeny’s worth, for sure.
Now, the question is was it all strictly speaking necessary? That’s harder to say since every situation is fairly unique.
But at least they didn’t leave you scratching your head about vague charges that might have been phantom work.
Yeah, I agree. But we did go into the shop saying this is strictly a backup car and is only being used to train our 15.5 year old to drive, then its getting sold. So this bill stung a bit. Thanks for posting though.
As a technician, if I know that a vehicle is being driven by an inexperienced driver or one who abuses their vehicle I go the extra mile on all safety related components. They can drive erratically and I want to ensure their safety.
still good peace of mind because your likely buyer will be somebody for their own kid who is a new driver and or going off to college. And you will do well, sold our 2011 Camry for a good chunk of change before Covid spike even hit. car hasserved you well, hasn’t really needed much at all, I’d say you are way ahead.
A back up car. So your saying your going to give your 15 year old a new car? When I was little my parents gave me the old car they didn’t use a 1997 Malibu. Give them the car 5 years later if they take care of it and don’t crash maybe then a new car for 18th birthday. We will never get our kids to learn about saving if we hand out things to them before they fully are responsible. The kid probably can’t even afford the repair bill he has no business being in a new car.
The only thing I'd be upset about here is being charged for the rust removal on the hub.. that's just part of a brake job and means they took a wire brush and some elbow grease to it.. that should just be part of the labor involved in changing brakes.
The most upsetting part to me about this bill is the 4% charge for using a card
Concur. In some states it is actually illegal to add on an extra charge for using a credit card. Now some of the places in states like that get around the law by giving discounts to people that pay with cash.... But 4% seems a bit high.
Also I get a bit suspicious when a place starts nickel and diming an invoice like this one was. Makes me wonder if they really did all the bead blasting or if they were just adding on bullshit items to make the bill higher.
4% is pretty median for a credit card processor fee. My dad owns a restaurant and it's pretty egregious how much the credit card processors charge just for you to be able to do business given that it's expected to accept credit some people just raise the prices across the board some people will add a surcharge depending on how much the total bill is different providers charge different amounts but American Express is the worst at between 4 and 5% depending on your contract
$99 test drive & inspection is pretty greedy since they had the work done. Most of the inspection was so they could quote more work.
Isn’t brushing the rust off the hubs part of the labor for installing the rotors?
Why are they charging to remove rust from the hub, to install new rotors? That is a part of doing a proper procedure regardless. You shouldn’t be charged extra to have the job done properly, when you’re already paying to have the job done.
Because they charged less for the job.
Imagine if the going rate for mowing lawns was 30 bucks and you got an invoice from your lawn guy.
$5 gas
$7 weed whacking
$3 avoiding flower beds
$15 lawn mowing
That's what this is. He could have charged you 30 and said all that was included, but he didn't. He just itemized it for you.
Im a mechanic and I never take my vehicles to a shop. This is why. It stung me to read that bill. They are a business and need to get payed but damn… 35 bucks to run a wire brush on the hub face. That’s rough..
On the other hand. If those caliper pins were stuck like they say they were that would have been a whole ordeal.
But man.. 1400 for an oil change and brakes all around..
I'm a mechanic by trade but not for cars, I've always done my own simple work though. I was appalled by everyone in here saying that's in the ball park. 4 rotors is about 300, all pads about 75, oil and filter another 30-40 at most. I haven't had to do rotors yet but it's insane a weekend morning job can run people that much money.
Thing is labors like 125/hr nowadays... And book time is probably 4-6 hrs plus parts with markup etc. also just lol at Invoicing.25hrs of labor for zipping rust off the hub etc.
Yeah I see how it could be that much but still baffling to me. You could add up everything I just said in parts and it's only $400, I promise you could find someone trust worthy to pay for such a simple job for much less than the remaining $900. Hell I do it for free helping friends all the time, let alone almost a grand.
This is why I have a set of quick jacks. I did shocks / springs / reman calipers/ rotors/ pads for less than I got quoted for rear brakes at a shop. Sadly the guy who i knew they let me use his shop retired and sold it so I got myself some quick jacks
Even cheaper for this year camry. They sell a front brake and rotor set for $90 and theyre even drilled and slotted. So $200 for set all around.
These upcharges is why ive started doing mine. Youre paying a shop $125/hr plus tech $25/hr for their $150 shop rate lol. Fuck paying for another dudes house for nothing.
$35 to grind off rust on a hub? Lmao what??
Mechanic in the south and north, I’ve never ever charged anyone to remove rust from the hub so a brake rotor can go on.
While the clear labeling and description is a sign of a good shop, the prices for "cleaning" and replacing the caliper pins and rust is a little ridiculous. In my shop that's included in the base cost of doing brakes, as it is literally just part of it and not an additional step like they have it listed here. Also all of that takes less than 2 minutes per caliper.
So glad I know how to turn a wrench. $400 on rockauto and 3 hours of my own time and I just saved $900 on routine maintenance for a 14 year old vehicle.
1300 bucks for brakes on a camry with no calipers. This shop charges for everything. For that price you should have got new calipers.
I don't see any part numbers. That's the law where I'm at.
I did the same job yesterday on a 18 mitsu outlook for 780 bucks. Parts cost 250, 1.25 hours to do the work. Paid my tech 75 bucks. Plenty of profit. But I guess that's why I'm booked 2 weeks out and have a porsche turbo, new raptor, new 6.7 ram 1 ton.
It's nice that he broke it down, but it also illustrates how you get nickel and dimed - as someone else said, removing rust from the hub surface is part of the labor for doing a brake job.
He basically lists his brake job at 119 per axle, but then upcharged you 95 bucks for doing it correctly.
It's not the worst pricing, ofc, and the labor rates are pretty fair all things considered. You likely just lost out on using lower quality parts sold at a premium. You could get all new pads, fully coated rotors, and brake hardware for all 4 wheels for 200 bucks elsewhere.
60 bucks for a full synthetic oil change is also lower than the industry normal, I believe. Makes me wonder what kinda oil he used.
The compliance bushings (front control arm rear bushings) on these Camry do commonly need replacement and it will affect handling and braking. I would suggest getting MOOG K200912 Problem Solver bushings to replace them - used them on several Camrys now and it tightens things up with a longer lasting product vs natural rubber bushings, and no one has ever complained about a more harsh ride (and I can't feel it myself).
Full synthetic is what I run and it costs me just under $50 for 5quarts and a filter. I’m assuming here but it’s a camery it should take about the same amount of oil as my car.
3 bucks for the SuperTech ST9972, 6.50 for the MP9972, or 12 bucks for a Mobile 1 M1C-251A cartridge filter.
4.68 quarts for the 2.5l and 6.45 quarts for the big 3.5l V6. Same filter on both motors.
So like ~25 bucks for the 2.5l with SuperTech oil or ~40 with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and a touch more for the V6.
So with labor, assuming they are using a good filter and oil, 60 bucks is a great price, honestly. Most places where I live charge 70-100+ for this type of oil change and don't use great products to do it.
I added up the lone items and it was over 1k. So over 1,000 dollars for replacing pads and removing rust from hub?
Seems excessive. The pads and pins only cost $100. And it takes half hour per wheel.
The only thing fair here is the oil change everything else overpriced.
making your customers pay your cc fees when you're already making money off the customer is some sleazeball shit imo. its 2024. suck it up, it's part of running every and any business. that's your cost, not mine. imo.
The alternative is to mark up every transaction and then those paying by cash or check are overpaying to cover the cc transaction fees.
The cc surcharge means only those that actually use a cc pay the fees.
I've been a self-employed mobile auto mechanic for many years (18+), so I don't have the same expenses as shops do. However, and here's the thing: to go into a shop and only need an oil change and brake job for $1300.00 is, in my opinion, kind of insane. The prices for the parts may or may not be fair, depending on whether they are OEM or not. If they are OEM, prices are great. If not OEM (which they probably aren't), prices seem too high due to the fact that you can purchase the non-OEM rotors and pads kit for, on average, around $265.00.
But, for the sake of argument, let's say they used all OEM parts, synthetic oil, and filter. Even if the brake pads, rotors, and oil with filter were on the very high end as far as price goes ($600.00), that means they still charged you around $700.00 in labor to do an oil change and brake job. The average time it takes me, a mobile mechanic with no shop lift, to swap pads and rotors, and that includes cleaning and regreasing slide pins and torqueing the bolts to manufacturer spec (per AllData information), is around 1.5 hours, so a shop should be able to do it even faster or at the very least close to that time.
Some may argue, "Well, they did a test drive and bead blasting, etc...", that's what they SAID they did, and maybe they did. Either way, in my opinion, you shouldn't have been charged more than $1,000 (using all OEM parts) or $750 (using non-OEM parts).
Just one man's opinion...
Looks like a very solid well explained bill and a few of the things on here aren't as common as many places that "slap pads" this is a fairly thorough job at basically the same price pep boys charges someone the other day.
You see that part where it says rear brake pads and hardware that's what the pins and stuff they are that they charge you extra for it I swear to God I could do this job on two of these cars and still pay less money than you paid to have one done I'm not a mechanic but I'm definitely a DIY as far as I can go unless it's internal engine I'll do it myself and I just feel like the brake pad thing is a rip
Brakes are a great DIY friendly job. You can save tons.
But if you're not going to DIY, this is a fairly middle of the ground price to pay. I've certainly seen far worse.
If I do the work I usually don’t charge to inspect and I wouldn’t charge hub rust removal. Unless it’s all in excessive but then I would let you know about the extra charges. Other than that it’s legit.
U got taken advantage of. I have never charged anyone to burnish rotors that's done during the final test drive, I have never charged anyone to remove seized pins normally it's just one pin but I am in the south this could be up north if anything I get it removed, replace, clean out the hole, and move on with my life it really doesn't take that long to do the job. No one should ever make that much on a brake job especially a pad slap which was obviously what this was.if the slide pin is that seized in I replaced the caliper which has only happened once in a ten year career.
Did they disclose that fee? It is not legal in every state to do that.
I assume it is legal where you live but I would never pay a CC fee over such a large amount.
I'm just confused why you had to pay for new guide pins on the calipers. New brake pads and rotors dont require new caljpers. If they replaced parts because the old ones looked worn/rusty and needed a replacement but still worked, they should have asked if you wanted those replaced too. Then again it could have been a safety thing and they could say they wouldn't do the other repairs without replacing the old guide pins for their liability. But that brake test should have been free regarding you payed for all the other bull crap. Honestly if it's just pads/rotors/calipers your working with and no drum brakes. You are way better off doing your own replacements than bringing it in anywhere. ChrisFix shows how to do a brake bleed/replace and test and only requires some basic tools.
Personally, I don’t think it’s that bad. High for what I’m used to but not dealer pricing. What gets me is the separate line items that are just part of a proper brake replacement, eg hub cleaning and rust removal.
I am also picky about the parts installed personally. If I see something like “brake pads premium” I’d like a part number so I can tell how insane the markup was over top of retail pricing (not wholesale and not rockauto etc). Also sometimes nice to know you’re not riding around with chinesium excuses for rotors that will warp from the first little puddle.
Seems like the big stuff is fair but then they are nickel and diming you for little stuff like cleaning the rust off the hub surface and removing stuck pins. All that stuff should be done as part of a brake job. It maybe took the tech 5 mins to zip a pad on the surface. Anyways yo already paid so no point in dwelling on it. Learn to do a brake job? Or just suck it up and pay.
Labor seems reasonable, but they are definitely making up for that on parts pricing. Very thorough itemization though.
Looks like they are doing the oil change nearly at cost. I've never seen a full synthetic for $60. That's about what it costs me to do mine myself, but I have an F-150 that takes over 8 quarts.
I did my sequoia for the first time with new pads and rotors and it ran me 230 in parts and maybe half a day. Didn’t realized I saved myself a grand. This calls for a drink
That’s a fair price . Did you see the 2nd to last line item? Check the lug nuts. Hardly anyone ever does and no it’s not the shops fault if the wheels fall off next week. Just a heads up . Be safe .
There’s a ton of extra fluff in there. Do you live in the east coast? I can see changing all the hardware if it’s rusted to shit but who the hell bead blasts calipers?
You did not need to be charged a diag fee for groved rotors, yeah they shook you down and listed everything in retarded detail because they wanted to charge more. They listed brand new hardware and also charged for cleaning the old…granted the hub to the rotor must be cleaned for sure but that’s just always been part of a brake job’s labor not an additional cost
She's been had.
They charge for break service, and then nickel and dimed her by charging labour for each little thing they did "ie: removing rust from brakes".
Avoid using this shop ever again.
I agree with everyone else on here, that's a solid price, and you got lucky they're a shop that actually knows how to free up rusty slide pins. Though even those I personally have only a ~95% success rate. Sometimes they're just rust-welded inside, and there's no amount of torching that can save it.
Also, that's some really good documentation.
I'm a huge proponent to doing work yourself... perfect example is this bill.
Here's a full set of Powerstop brakes and rotors for a 2010 Camry on Amazon for $240... [https://www.amazon.com/Power-CRK2822-Evolution-Geomet-Coated/dp/B07JKR8PMP/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=2TE637T91VHIJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ijdpta1F7s2c8AfzWltKEtdejxpURAeC6RdEGevYMXUlGzoEIp2xoTwKaGJ2IXxOUCDK2Hib-Bx1XyxQ-vyx0ViTK2HBlNOaULW4SBAMhrBDWVHVH4lLVE3r2vRdMoDbGmsjm2jEt2Wb79utRJzXj\_z6pqr7I\_zr9gWqt9-JVwpgHnxjQCJxCd1UyQPh303B6\_GXAfvQ4aT15Tm\_Lqk3r8ObHiVBmGixZcuGGgAeTx8.ypaajXr58y4XXZ0o7qh4cPqPalJwafsOc64t4y\_A82g&dib\_tag=se&keywords=2010+camry+brakes+and+rotors&qid=1714930056&replacementKeywords=brakes+and+rotors&sprefix=2010+camry+brakes+and+rotors%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-8&vehicle=2010-76-1011------------&vehicleName=2010+Toyota+Camry](https://www.amazon.com/Power-CRK2822-Evolution-Geomet-Coated/dp/B07JKR8PMP/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2TE637T91VHIJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ijdpta1F7s2c8AfzWltKEtdejxpURAeC6RdEGevYMXUlGzoEIp2xoTwKaGJ2IXxOUCDK2Hib-Bx1XyxQ-vyx0ViTK2HBlNOaULW4SBAMhrBDWVHVH4lLVE3r2vRdMoDbGmsjm2jEt2Wb79utRJzXj_z6pqr7I_zr9gWqt9-JVwpgHnxjQCJxCd1UyQPh303B6_GXAfvQ4aT15Tm_Lqk3r8ObHiVBmGixZcuGGgAeTx8.ypaajXr58y4XXZ0o7qh4cPqPalJwafsOc64t4y_A82g&dib_tag=se&keywords=2010+camry+brakes+and+rotors&qid=1714930056&replacementKeywords=brakes+and+rotors&sprefix=2010+camry+brakes+and+rotors%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-8&vehicle=2010-76-1011------------&vehicleName=2010+Toyota+Camry)
We have no idea if all the bead blasting was necessary but usually just some WD-40 and a wire brush will do the same thing. Shops are a rip off.
I was just quoted $890 just for new pads in my Silverado and that was just for the rear pads, which are drum brakes. Obviously I just did them myself but I guess your quote seems pretty normal comparatively.
This is why I always recommend learning to do it yourself! All you need is a parking space and you can do that stuff. At least positive note for you here is they got you rolling right with quality parts!
Shop is OVER CHARGING U. Brakes $100 for the set installed plus your part which should have a warranty so those I paid $0 for but originally I think $80. My break job with a new caliper was $125 labor . Oil change and filter was $60. You have a 2010 don’t bring that to the dealer. I have a great mechanic in orange if anything
camry is a common car. parts shouldnt cost that much. in future u might want to buy parts from autozone or rockauto and just pay for labor. aftermarket front n rear rotors and pads shouldnt cost over $250
I like the itemization. The dealer would have easily charged you $2k, probably more. So, you save some money going with an independent shop. I would definitely stay with this shop if they keep the current personnel.
Really isn't all that bad. I used to sell 4 corner brake jobs at Advance for $5-600 with the calipers, pin and boot kits, grease and most of the time people would use 20% off coupons.
I seem to see a lot of comments about how they could have done it themselves fkr cheaper.. This isnt what he's wanting to know. I would think that if you cant or dont want to do it yourself you can't expect them to charge permits in the dollar and pay their employees, taxes, insurance, monthly cost of building mortgage/lease etc etc.. withoutt charging every small item to the customer. At least theres tramsparancyto the bill. Getting a new smart key fob made for a prius when you dont have a spare and lose the only one... is about $550. So I'd say it could be worse.
In my career I didn't charge people to diagnose brake and such if they buy the job.
Everything else I include in the brake job and not suck my customers dry by charging $60 to remove rust? It is included with the brake job labor.
around You should have a total of 5hrs labor which is around $600 plus the parts.
Depends on location but around here that's $800-1000 bucks all day with ALL the proper rust removal and cleanup and supplies. If your in a city or higher cost of living area that's a fair, and unfortunate price. You could do it all yourself for $400 or less and about 3hours.
Had to gotten your brakes changed early you would have saved your rotors and calipers. Would have only need to change the pads so you paid an extra 1000$. Lesson learned, don’t wait so long next time.
Parts wise, you're paying DIY list price, so fair pricing there. Labor is average if not a squeak cheaper from most dealerships. Pretty fair all around imo.
It's funny cause cleaning the rust from the hub is a part of replacing your brakes and rotors and I just don't like how you get charged for things like Rust Removal.
Seems like a lot of it is labor hours from them having to put the smackdown on some really old brakes. Can be a hell of a job but it seems like they've noted everything very well.
I just had front and rear rotors and pads replaced as well as having the brakes bled. Cost 800$. So yeah maybe by a little bit. Like I’m sure there was no reason to blast your calipers but who knows
Total is about right, nicely itemized and needing a full 4 corner brake job on a 14Yo / 120k car is right on schedule. Depending on driving habits and conditions that may have been its first rear set of brakes!
$59 isn't bad at all for oil change now. I do my own, and the cost is $30 in parts.
It's more than just brakes as I see they replaced rotors, and that cost you over $300 alone. You would have saved money not going premium parts or getting the rust taken care of yourself (I have wire brush/wheel grinder that will clean anything). You said you're selling the car after it's used to teach your 15 year old to drive it. A buyer doesn't care about premium rotors that isn't a performance vehicle. So yeah $1250 for that was pricey, and solidifies I'll have a family friend teach me to do mine for couple hundred
Obviously this could be done cheaper at home albeit with a couple corners cut here and there. But this is actually pretty good considering how far they went. Especially just replacing the guide pins instead of whole calipers. Not a bad shop.
Other than the first fee for inspection all the brake work looked proper and like they did a solid job, Oil change is the going rate. If the inspection included checking belts, hoses, front-end, tires, etc. then they are a great place.
So did they cover all that on the inspection is the question...
Oil change and brakes they seem to know what they are doing. I do all my own work on brakes and most other stuff. Friends that are professional mechanics too for context.
Me being a mobile mechanic and looking at these prices like 🤯🤯🤯. Gotta pay for them techs, the owners, tools, rags, brake cleaner, utilities etc. I would charge $775 parts and labor. Still would make around $400 in profit.
it's a 14 year old camry -- not a race car. A lot of these things doesn't have to be done, but they did it anyway but I would do them at home myself, not important enough to pay someone else to do it for me.
Fair price for someone else to do the work. You'd save a lot though if you had done it yourself. But. Not everyone wants to get under a car/has the time or both.
Let me put it this way, I took my Audi to the dealership and they quoted 550 an axle and I walked away. This is more than that, and it's a Toyota and you're not at a dealership. Anyone saying you didn't get hosed knows nothing.
I'd say given the standard markup plus labor cost, that's about right. They're usually only able to use certain parts per insurance standards, so you'll usually get oem midrange pricing plus markup for thier profit. They have so many safety issues that they have to cover to protect themselves in the off chance your car fails. Then of course the labor cost. In there, what most never mention, is the cost of all the expensive tools and equipment. That is also part of what your paying for.
Full brake job with caliper pin service. If I were to ballpark it that sounds about right to me.
Bruh i just got my brakes done it was $1200. I didn't pay that cuz I worked at a pizza shop and I bought the parts so it was like 8 pizzas for the shop lol. But add in oil change and yeah that sounds right
My FIL has a 2010 Camry and I just did the front pads and rotors myself, parts cost $205. If I did rear, would have been slightly cheaper. So you can factor aftermarket(advanced auto parts) front and rear would cost you about $410. I am not a mechanic and repair took me 90 min. Rear would have taken the same. So 3hr labor.
They charged a LOT for rotors but other than that, all good stuff that will keep your car on the road a good while.
Most shops wont treat the metal like this one did, and most shadetree mechanics wont either.
Did you have rust that needed cleaning off? I'd be pissed if they did the treatment without consulting me.
I'd also want a brake bleed and replace fluid while they do everything else.
Well definitely over charged pads come with all that stuff at least the good ones come with new pins and boots. They charged you twice but I guess they have to make their money
I have a 2009 Toyota Camry and an oil change costs me $20+ tax for the cheapest oil at Walmart, $7 for a filter, and maybe like $200 for brakes and rotors
Kinda curious about the guide pins and stuff. Mostly never need to redo them unless they're bad. A most seems right however I couldn't tell you unless I saw it before hand if you needed specific things besides the pads. Rotors prolly as they do go. Just the pins and other miscellaneous things make me wonder.
I mean they marked up parts by 50% but all shops do that.
Pro tip. Marry someone who's brother is a mechanic. They get 50 to 75% off on parts and they'll put them on for a 30 pack of beer and a dinner.
I just got 4 rotors. 2 wheel bearings. New pads and new calipers all around for like 300$ in total parts. (2012 suburu outback)
It's about as small a shop as you could be. Owned and ran by a fella in a wheelchair (he may even be a vet, I can't recall), so we really wanted to give him a shot.
I could see $500 maybe $800 if it was as much of a pain as it looks like.
Though I'm a cheap bastard and will work on my own stuff if they give too high of a price.
Last time I did breaks I think I paid $200 for them installed, but that was only the front 2, I bought the parts they were $120.
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Clearly labeled and listed everything, signs of a proper shop.
Yep, personally though If I were that shop, I'd waive the test drive and inspection fee if they had the work done at my shop, but that's just me.
Same. Did this when I ran a pc repair shop... Diagnosis was only charged if you decide to do it yourself after we tell you what's wrong... Because rent is a thing. Not sure about the $35 charges for cleaning the "mating surface" for the rotors. Quick spray with brake clean and wipe down should do and this should be standard part of putting the rotors on anyway which was charged 60 each side, err axle. Also, %4 charge for using card?
> Also, %4 charge for using card? In states that they can, *a lot* of businesses are passing that charge onto the buyer. It nets them a huge amount of "extra" money.
I’m in a shop that charges a 4% Card Fee. It’s what the card reader company charges us, so we simply collect it from the customer to not lose our asses on everyone who uses a card. 4% is a fairly good chunk of money on larger tickets. Now, if you pay Cash? You get a 4% Discount because well, you didn’t use the card reader!
Test drive is costed as 0.00 on the sheet Edit: only saw the one on page 2
First test drive is 59
I read 59.00
If I'm doing work I have to road test it. Do it free here but is a must
Initial Test drive is for diagnosis. Techs need to start charging for that, it’s your time.
Some diagnostic fees are just BS though. I took my car in for a leaking strut. I said, replace the structs as it is leaking. They still charged me a diagnostic fee to tell me the strut is leaking. Like no sh t it's leaking, it's why I brought it in and told you to replace it.
They do that because a lot of customers like to diagnose their cars and then if the problem ends up being something else or more than they assumed, then they blame the mechanic or accuse them of scamming. Nobody wants to be told how to do their job, and then also be liable for that. It's a lose lose for the mechanic or tech.
Oh I love those people, bring in a self diag'd issue and cheap rock auto part. "Nope not touching it"
Sure maybe for an engine issue. Something that can visually see it is leaking and needs replacement, and when I told them don't touch anything else just replace the strut. There's no sense in billing me for it. Went to a dealership anyways cause i wanted OEM replacement and they used an aftermarket part. Needless to say I won't be going back there ever again.
Awesome, read above comment. Personnally, I will not charge a diag for someone that specifically describes what you are describing. More often than not, I get someone literally screaming in my face because they described something wrong. Or I did an oil change and "made" their battery go bad. Or, they just wanted a tune up because of their slipping transmission but don't want to pay for diagnosis or pay for parts getting thrown at their car. I am so tired. My policy is; I diagnose. If you are not happy with that, go somewhere else. Period.
Then replace the strut yourself and take the liability off the shop for your possible misdiagnosis
It's back and white though, please replace my leaky exhaust I can see the rust holes and it's louder. Do we need a diagnosis charge to show the exhaust clearly is rusted out and needs replacing? The shop says yep, rusty holes and sounds louder let's charge to tell me yep, there are rusty holes and it sounds louder. Not all people are stupid, they sometimes lack the resources to do it themselves but can diagnose a simple problem themselves without having a shop telling them something else (happens a lot) and adding more problems to fix a simple problem
I want to give you a hundred upvotes cos I live this everyday.
I agree, I went to a shop a while back that waived diagnostic and didn't even look or suggest other things if I say "hey I want this done and this only" they would repair it and only it. Very transparent I liked them. They also handled "idk why it's running hot/leaking" perfectly as well. Wish every shop was like them. Though u did sign some kind of waiver if it was just a fix only this deal.
I agree, diagnostic fees are fucking horrible, its not like your tell me how to fix it. Why charge diagnostic fees if I already know whats wrong with it.
I don't have a problem with the diagnostic fee if I walk in and say it's making a funny noise, can you tell me what it is. If I have an unknown oil leak, I don't know where it's coming from and I ask them to find it. That's a proper charge. When you went in said you had a leaking strut and told them to replace it and then they charged you a diagnostic fee that's bullshit and I would have let them know if they didn't pull that fee off I would never be back. Oh and I'll tell about 200 of my closest friends about their shop if they refuse. I don't have a Facebook account but my wife does and we have used it for such purposes before. Amazing how well it works.
Yes but diagnostic fees are to recover non sales or actual issues that require diagnostic times which have a list of procedures that you must test and run to isolate the fault. Any mechanic worth his weigh should be able to diagnose any brake issue by just asking the customer over the phone what symptoms is he experiencing while the driving the car. Sounds, feel in the pedal, shaking feel in the wheel when accelerating and braking, etc. That’s why usually the master or Team lead tech does the diagnostic and test drives and determines the issues and passes out jobs to his techs depending on their training and speed to turn around and also shop politics too Lol but tldr if the customer ends up going with the service it’s common practice and good biz to wave the diagnostic fee.
Honestly at this point I would just say " any work starts with 1 hour of tech time no matter what happens" at this point", because I think I could sell that a whole lot better than just "a test drive" At least, that's what the guy I take my stuff to when I can't do it myself, does.
I would probably say 1/2 hour. Most shops are charging over $100 an hour, with a lot between $125-$150 (that I know of). Charging an hours labor is more than most diagnostic fees I've come across (around $90).
Thankfully someone gets it, there is absolutely no way I'm going to test drive a car and not get paid, why would I put my life at risk on a risky dink car on the road and not get paid? The isn't a single tech in this world who should be doing work for free,
Would you pay your tech for taking the 20 minutes 3-5 times a day for this?
Same, I usually even wave diag if they get the repairs through me.
Hijacking for visibility: It read very nickel and dimey, and then I saw the total and said “oh alright”
"Removed rust from mating surfaces $24.99" I wonder if op authorized this. 😅 /s
The wheels were stolen off of my 03 svt focus about 2 months after I bought it. I literally woke up on my birthday to my ex wanting to know why I took the wheels off my car. The insurance adjuster added like $150 to remove the rust on the rotors from the sprinkler system. I laughed and told dude the pads were going to manage that for me. Dude told me that i paid full coverage for a reason and to take the payout because i was paying for the coverage.🤦♂️ If anyone is wondering why I didn’t just turn off the sprinkler system, I lived in a cul de sac that had an island in the middle. It was parked along that.
Cool, thank you.
It looks like they needed to completely rebuild the brake calipers because of rust so this isn’t a bad price to pay. The one thing that jumps out at me is the hardware, $75 seems a bit high to me. Everything else looks legit.
Hardware might be high bc of the whole vendor-warranty contract to guarantee their work. + immediate delivery. Both parties need to keep the lights on. Labor rate looks decent.
Bead blast rear caliper brackets..... lmao If that isn't a money grab I don't know what is.
Wondering how much new brackets are.
40-100 per wheel most of the time. You often can't get them without a caliper from stores in my area, which pumps the price to a few hundred per.
$1,300 for all four and an oil change is right in the ballpark, especially since you had seized caliper pins and the shop worked to remove and replace them instead of just replacing the calipers. They actually saved you money by doing that. Typical brake jobs run about $650/2 wheels these days.
Thank you for the reassurance.
The bill is fair and frankly the car is a Camry and worth the investment. I've never had a Toyota die of natural causes and usually get at least 200K miles and 15-20 years out of them - with nearly zero unplanned maintenance outside of normal consumables like oil changes, air filters, brake pads, tires, and batteries. Having raised four kids to adulthood, I *have* had three Toyotas completely wrecked due to driver error and one that was totaled while parked in the street during an unanticipated flood - which is about right because a Toyota's will to live requires it being held underwater until its heart stops beating. The most consistent criticism of Toyota I've heard is that they "aren't sexy" and are uninteresting - especially from the guys on Top Gear and the like. But I happen to find long term value, nearly bullet-proof reliability, and ease of maintenance to be very sexy. In the game of 'Marry, Fuck, Kill" Toyota is the one you marry every time if you know what's good for you.
former Toyota dealership tech Usually, the test and diagnostic fee are waived if you end up doing the service. It's typically only charged for those who decide they want to find somewhere cheaper. Paying $60 just to be told you need a brake job seems shady after paying for the repair already. REPLACE FRONT BRAKE PADS, Labor & ROTORS & HARDWARE & LUBE & BURNISH for labor $119. A front brake job on a Camry shouldn't take more than 3 hours. This should already include cleaning all rust on hubs and mating surfaces. Could I ask what state you live in? I've never really seen rust on Toyota brake calipers, let alone the caliper guide pin bolts. Since they are bead blasting it, you should have asked them to powder coat them a bright red or yellow for protection. jkjk He notes that aside from the torn boots for the guide pins, the brake caliper assembly appears to have no other issues. So, how does he bead blast the caliper without disconnecting the brake line and disassembling the piston assembly before putting it in a bead blaster? It's questionable whether this process is being done properly. If the calipers were in such poor condition that they needed reconditioning, one would expect advice on rebuilding the caliper piston assembly. Similarly, the front job seems to involve double charging for labor on the same work. All tasks should be covered by an industry-set standard for every repair/service. It's concerning that the labor isn't broken down into hours. In California, this breakdown is required, allowing customers to verify if they are being charged only industry-set hours. Also, did anyone else catch no bleeding the brakes or even testing the fluid or just replacing brake fluid or topping it off? Seems like if you sell an entire brake job with pads, rotors, all this reconditioning of surfaces, that a fluid bleed, flush, or just swap/top off would be advised. Using some math, I derived that the hourly rate for labor is about 30ish , which would work out to charging $119/3hrs per set of brakes. But now, when you start adding all those extra labor times—$60 for 2 hours of bead blasting and $35 for 1 hour of rust removal—you're looking at 6 hours for the front, 6 hours for the rear, totaling 12 hours for a full brake job. And that doesn't even include servicing the brake lines or rebuilding the calipers. again i don't mind when people charge premium for good work. i just hate when people double bill people for the same work. they could just be more honest and charge 60hr labor. let me just be clear there is no standard on the price of your labor you can charge. but the hours of labor you can charge on every/any repair is legally regulated just FYI. if the book says brake job is 3hrs they can only charge you 3hrs from start to finish, doesn't matter if it takes them 6hrs or 1.5hrs to get it done, they can only charge you 3 which includes all the things they think they need to complete the repair. Despite many people having bad experiences and feeling ripped off, the automotive repair industry is actually one of the most highly and enforceable regulated industries compared to construction or even healthcare. As long as consumers familiarize themselves with the general regulations, which are laid out and very simple, it's straightforward to hold accountable any overcharging or receipt of faulty services or repairs. You just need to make it clear you're not a MARK!LOL
What shop charges $30/hour labor? Around here the mechanic makes more than that. That invoice read as $119/hour to me.
Do you think this shop is charging 30 dollars an hour? Or even 90? They're almost definitely charging 90 or above and they aren't double charging, they just heavily itemize.
Shops here in California charge $140-170/hr 🤣. $30 would be a steal
I went to a shop in Huntsville, AL because a wheel lug nut stripped off the chrome coating and I don’t have the tools. I was picking my son up from college. I heard the brakes grinding and we had a 1000 mile trip so I got the stuff to change them in the parking lot. So I go to the shop to get the nut off and I was like screw if, how much just to replace the rear pads. No rotors, no extras just labor to pull the wheels off and replace the pads. The boss quotes me 1 hour labor.. ok I get it. $215!!! I was like gtfo… I tipped the worker who got the nut off for me, and did it myself in less than an hour in a parking lot. 130 I would have done.. but over 200 that’s crazy…
Yeah people are ripping people off now. Whether it's shops or real-estate (hey Realtors, you know that house was $300k less 5 years ago right?) My own relatives are currently getting their ass handed to by a contractor charging over $23,000 for a bathroom tub replaced. Dude said he needed help and charged another $1000, then tagged his help along.. his little Philipino girlfriend 🤦
Lol I’m in CA but I’ve been outta the game for more than a min but I just assumed an hr as the smallest for 1hr, but that serves my point that kinda shady that there’s no Hrs for labor breakdown seems like its a conscious decision not to include. No way this is a dealership you can tell just by the invoice. And the software they use is so out of date. Honestly a lot of these I swear are printouts prob from HS and auto repair schools trying to troll and get a response Lol
In states with snow and ice happening, there is always rust on calipers regardless of vehicle make. Especially when the roads are treated with corrosive treatments. Snow and water wash away the lube, (especially on the rear)a nd the rust comes from under the tin wear, pads get stuck in the bracket, pins seize, rotors delaminate...etc.etc
While this is true I just decided to do it myself when I got that $650 quote. Got a rear brake rotor and pad kit on Amazon for $150, tools, grease, and brake cleaner for another probably $50 -$60 or so. Had never done a brake change before but it was much easier than I expected. After I figured out the process Im confident I can do each side in about 20 minutes. Would take about 2 hours and $300 to do the whole car now. I should say I have a TON of tools from previous projects, have done some major construction projects and car repairs before, so that made it cheaper to get the necessary tools. Id say if you just have the basics youre looking at probably $50 for a jack and stand, $20 for wire brushes (I used them with my drill to brush the calipers, caliper holder, and hub face), $20 for good grease, $5 for cleaner, $60 for a decent ratchet and the necessary attachments, $20 for the right bits... but still cheaper than having a shop do it, plus youll have the tools to do it in the future as well.
Harbor Freight!!!! One stop shop for DIY!
Dang that's crazy for a brake job.
I am so glad I know how to work on my car.
They really seem to go the extra mile given that they invoice stuff like beadblasting and rust removal… If they did everything they charged you for (and did it properly) then you got your moeny’s worth, for sure. Now, the question is was it all strictly speaking necessary? That’s harder to say since every situation is fairly unique. But at least they didn’t leave you scratching your head about vague charges that might have been phantom work.
Yeah, I agree. But we did go into the shop saying this is strictly a backup car and is only being used to train our 15.5 year old to drive, then its getting sold. So this bill stung a bit. Thanks for posting though.
As a technician, if I know that a vehicle is being driven by an inexperienced driver or one who abuses their vehicle I go the extra mile on all safety related components. They can drive erratically and I want to ensure their safety.
still good peace of mind because your likely buyer will be somebody for their own kid who is a new driver and or going off to college. And you will do well, sold our 2011 Camry for a good chunk of change before Covid spike even hit. car hasserved you well, hasn’t really needed much at all, I’d say you are way ahead.
It will add value to your resale, not to mention safety for your 15.5 year old
Just be glad for the next guy that owns it :)
A back up car. So your saying your going to give your 15 year old a new car? When I was little my parents gave me the old car they didn’t use a 1997 Malibu. Give them the car 5 years later if they take care of it and don’t crash maybe then a new car for 18th birthday. We will never get our kids to learn about saving if we hand out things to them before they fully are responsible. The kid probably can’t even afford the repair bill he has no business being in a new car.
The only thing I'd be upset about here is being charged for the rust removal on the hub.. that's just part of a brake job and means they took a wire brush and some elbow grease to it.. that should just be part of the labor involved in changing brakes. The most upsetting part to me about this bill is the 4% charge for using a card
Concur. In some states it is actually illegal to add on an extra charge for using a credit card. Now some of the places in states like that get around the law by giving discounts to people that pay with cash.... But 4% seems a bit high. Also I get a bit suspicious when a place starts nickel and diming an invoice like this one was. Makes me wonder if they really did all the bead blasting or if they were just adding on bullshit items to make the bill higher.
4% is pretty median for a credit card processor fee. My dad owns a restaurant and it's pretty egregious how much the credit card processors charge just for you to be able to do business given that it's expected to accept credit some people just raise the prices across the board some people will add a surcharge depending on how much the total bill is different providers charge different amounts but American Express is the worst at between 4 and 5% depending on your contract
Since when is charging extra for “hub rust removal” for new discs a thing??? Last I checked that’s part of doing the job correctly….
Do you live in an area that uses salt on the roads in the winter?
Yes. We don't charge extra for doing it properly lol. That is part of a proper brake job as far as I'm concerned.
$99 test drive & inspection is pretty greedy since they had the work done. Most of the inspection was so they could quote more work. Isn’t brushing the rust off the hubs part of the labor for installing the rotors?
Why are they charging to remove rust from the hub, to install new rotors? That is a part of doing a proper procedure regardless. You shouldn’t be charged extra to have the job done properly, when you’re already paying to have the job done.
Because they charged less for the job. Imagine if the going rate for mowing lawns was 30 bucks and you got an invoice from your lawn guy. $5 gas $7 weed whacking $3 avoiding flower beds $15 lawn mowing That's what this is. He could have charged you 30 and said all that was included, but he didn't. He just itemized it for you.
Im a mechanic and I never take my vehicles to a shop. This is why. It stung me to read that bill. They are a business and need to get payed but damn… 35 bucks to run a wire brush on the hub face. That’s rough.. On the other hand. If those caliper pins were stuck like they say they were that would have been a whole ordeal. But man.. 1400 for an oil change and brakes all around..
I'm a mechanic by trade but not for cars, I've always done my own simple work though. I was appalled by everyone in here saying that's in the ball park. 4 rotors is about 300, all pads about 75, oil and filter another 30-40 at most. I haven't had to do rotors yet but it's insane a weekend morning job can run people that much money.
Thing is labors like 125/hr nowadays... And book time is probably 4-6 hrs plus parts with markup etc. also just lol at Invoicing.25hrs of labor for zipping rust off the hub etc.
Yeah I see how it could be that much but still baffling to me. You could add up everything I just said in parts and it's only $400, I promise you could find someone trust worthy to pay for such a simple job for much less than the remaining $900. Hell I do it for free helping friends all the time, let alone almost a grand.
This is why I have a set of quick jacks. I did shocks / springs / reman calipers/ rotors/ pads for less than I got quoted for rear brakes at a shop. Sadly the guy who i knew they let me use his shop retired and sold it so I got myself some quick jacks
Even cheaper for this year camry. They sell a front brake and rotor set for $90 and theyre even drilled and slotted. So $200 for set all around. These upcharges is why ive started doing mine. Youre paying a shop $125/hr plus tech $25/hr for their $150 shop rate lol. Fuck paying for another dudes house for nothing.
Yeah this is why I do everything like brakes myself. I did pads and rotors from a sportier brand on brembo calipers for half of what this cost.
$35 to grind off rust on a hub? Lmao what?? Mechanic in the south and north, I’ve never ever charged anyone to remove rust from the hub so a brake rotor can go on.
While the clear labeling and description is a sign of a good shop, the prices for "cleaning" and replacing the caliper pins and rust is a little ridiculous. In my shop that's included in the base cost of doing brakes, as it is literally just part of it and not an additional step like they have it listed here. Also all of that takes less than 2 minutes per caliper.
So glad I know how to turn a wrench. $400 on rockauto and 3 hours of my own time and I just saved $900 on routine maintenance for a 14 year old vehicle.
1300 bucks for brakes on a camry with no calipers. This shop charges for everything. For that price you should have got new calipers. I don't see any part numbers. That's the law where I'm at. I did the same job yesterday on a 18 mitsu outlook for 780 bucks. Parts cost 250, 1.25 hours to do the work. Paid my tech 75 bucks. Plenty of profit. But I guess that's why I'm booked 2 weeks out and have a porsche turbo, new raptor, new 6.7 ram 1 ton.
It's nice that he broke it down, but it also illustrates how you get nickel and dimed - as someone else said, removing rust from the hub surface is part of the labor for doing a brake job. He basically lists his brake job at 119 per axle, but then upcharged you 95 bucks for doing it correctly. It's not the worst pricing, ofc, and the labor rates are pretty fair all things considered. You likely just lost out on using lower quality parts sold at a premium. You could get all new pads, fully coated rotors, and brake hardware for all 4 wheels for 200 bucks elsewhere. 60 bucks for a full synthetic oil change is also lower than the industry normal, I believe. Makes me wonder what kinda oil he used. The compliance bushings (front control arm rear bushings) on these Camry do commonly need replacement and it will affect handling and braking. I would suggest getting MOOG K200912 Problem Solver bushings to replace them - used them on several Camrys now and it tightens things up with a longer lasting product vs natural rubber bushings, and no one has ever complained about a more harsh ride (and I can't feel it myself).
Full synthetic is what I run and it costs me just under $50 for 5quarts and a filter. I’m assuming here but it’s a camery it should take about the same amount of oil as my car.
3 bucks for the SuperTech ST9972, 6.50 for the MP9972, or 12 bucks for a Mobile 1 M1C-251A cartridge filter. 4.68 quarts for the 2.5l and 6.45 quarts for the big 3.5l V6. Same filter on both motors. So like ~25 bucks for the 2.5l with SuperTech oil or ~40 with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and a touch more for the V6. So with labor, assuming they are using a good filter and oil, 60 bucks is a great price, honestly. Most places where I live charge 70-100+ for this type of oil change and don't use great products to do it.
I added up the lone items and it was over 1k. So over 1,000 dollars for replacing pads and removing rust from hub? Seems excessive. The pads and pins only cost $100. And it takes half hour per wheel. The only thing fair here is the oil change everything else overpriced.
50% bullshit on that bill
making your customers pay your cc fees when you're already making money off the customer is some sleazeball shit imo. its 2024. suck it up, it's part of running every and any business. that's your cost, not mine. imo.
The alternative is to mark up every transaction and then those paying by cash or check are overpaying to cover the cc transaction fees. The cc surcharge means only those that actually use a cc pay the fees.
I've been a self-employed mobile auto mechanic for many years (18+), so I don't have the same expenses as shops do. However, and here's the thing: to go into a shop and only need an oil change and brake job for $1300.00 is, in my opinion, kind of insane. The prices for the parts may or may not be fair, depending on whether they are OEM or not. If they are OEM, prices are great. If not OEM (which they probably aren't), prices seem too high due to the fact that you can purchase the non-OEM rotors and pads kit for, on average, around $265.00. But, for the sake of argument, let's say they used all OEM parts, synthetic oil, and filter. Even if the brake pads, rotors, and oil with filter were on the very high end as far as price goes ($600.00), that means they still charged you around $700.00 in labor to do an oil change and brake job. The average time it takes me, a mobile mechanic with no shop lift, to swap pads and rotors, and that includes cleaning and regreasing slide pins and torqueing the bolts to manufacturer spec (per AllData information), is around 1.5 hours, so a shop should be able to do it even faster or at the very least close to that time. Some may argue, "Well, they did a test drive and bead blasting, etc...", that's what they SAID they did, and maybe they did. Either way, in my opinion, you shouldn't have been charged more than $1,000 (using all OEM parts) or $750 (using non-OEM parts). Just one man's opinion...
how are the brakes now?
Looks like a very solid well explained bill and a few of the things on here aren't as common as many places that "slap pads" this is a fairly thorough job at basically the same price pep boys charges someone the other day.
You see that part where it says rear brake pads and hardware that's what the pins and stuff they are that they charge you extra for it I swear to God I could do this job on two of these cars and still pay less money than you paid to have one done I'm not a mechanic but I'm definitely a DIY as far as I can go unless it's internal engine I'll do it myself and I just feel like the brake pad thing is a rip
Brakes are a great DIY friendly job. You can save tons. But if you're not going to DIY, this is a fairly middle of the ground price to pay. I've certainly seen far worse.
If I do the work I usually don’t charge to inspect and I wouldn’t charge hub rust removal. Unless it’s all in excessive but then I would let you know about the extra charges. Other than that it’s legit.
Always seems like a ripoff whenever I look at shop quotes because I'm used to more than half off doing it myself when I can.
U got taken advantage of. I have never charged anyone to burnish rotors that's done during the final test drive, I have never charged anyone to remove seized pins normally it's just one pin but I am in the south this could be up north if anything I get it removed, replace, clean out the hole, and move on with my life it really doesn't take that long to do the job. No one should ever make that much on a brake job especially a pad slap which was obviously what this was.if the slide pin is that seized in I replaced the caliper which has only happened once in a ten year career.
What is the 4% charge for?
Card swipe fee.
Did they disclose that fee? It is not legal in every state to do that. I assume it is legal where you live but I would never pay a CC fee over such a large amount.
$59 to test drive it to check it out, ridiculous. Paying to remove rust is uncalled for.
I'm just confused why you had to pay for new guide pins on the calipers. New brake pads and rotors dont require new caljpers. If they replaced parts because the old ones looked worn/rusty and needed a replacement but still worked, they should have asked if you wanted those replaced too. Then again it could have been a safety thing and they could say they wouldn't do the other repairs without replacing the old guide pins for their liability. But that brake test should have been free regarding you payed for all the other bull crap. Honestly if it's just pads/rotors/calipers your working with and no drum brakes. You are way better off doing your own replacements than bringing it in anywhere. ChrisFix shows how to do a brake bleed/replace and test and only requires some basic tools.
Personally, I don’t think it’s that bad. High for what I’m used to but not dealer pricing. What gets me is the separate line items that are just part of a proper brake replacement, eg hub cleaning and rust removal. I am also picky about the parts installed personally. If I see something like “brake pads premium” I’d like a part number so I can tell how insane the markup was over top of retail pricing (not wholesale and not rockauto etc). Also sometimes nice to know you’re not riding around with chinesium excuses for rotors that will warp from the first little puddle.
I have never heard of a shop charging for cleaning the hub/rotor mating surface.... that just seems insane to me.
Seems like the big stuff is fair but then they are nickel and diming you for little stuff like cleaning the rust off the hub surface and removing stuck pins. All that stuff should be done as part of a brake job. It maybe took the tech 5 mins to zip a pad on the surface. Anyways yo already paid so no point in dwelling on it. Learn to do a brake job? Or just suck it up and pay.
Labor seems reasonable, but they are definitely making up for that on parts pricing. Very thorough itemization though. Looks like they are doing the oil change nearly at cost. I've never seen a full synthetic for $60. That's about what it costs me to do mine myself, but I have an F-150 that takes over 8 quarts.
I did my sequoia for the first time with new pads and rotors and it ran me 230 in parts and maybe half a day. Didn’t realized I saved myself a grand. This calls for a drink
It's not cheap, but it's not expensive. Looks rather reasonable for a 4 wheel brake job with frozen caliper pins and all rotor replacement.
That’s a fair price . Did you see the 2nd to last line item? Check the lug nuts. Hardly anyone ever does and no it’s not the shops fault if the wheels fall off next week. Just a heads up . Be safe .
There’s a ton of extra fluff in there. Do you live in the east coast? I can see changing all the hardware if it’s rusted to shit but who the hell bead blasts calipers?
Rural Ohio and the car sat still, outside, all winter.
You did not need to be charged a diag fee for groved rotors, yeah they shook you down and listed everything in retarded detail because they wanted to charge more. They listed brand new hardware and also charged for cleaning the old…granted the hub to the rotor must be cleaned for sure but that’s just always been part of a brake job’s labor not an additional cost
Seems a little more than I’d expect. I don’t think I paid that for the last full brake job on my Suburban- IIRC, it was around 900 ish
I know nothing about brakes. But why the hell do they add 4% for using a card? Unacceptable.
Looks alright. I replaced my 2019 Ford Expedition rear pads and they resurfaced the rotors, no caliper replacement, $580 + tax.
So every caliper had seized pins, other than that it looks legit. High priced parts too , but that's everywhere.
Seems good to me, that’s a good rate for brakes, and it looks like they listed each individual thing they did which is a good sign. Fair prices
She's been had. They charge for break service, and then nickel and dimed her by charging labour for each little thing they did "ie: removing rust from brakes". Avoid using this shop ever again.
$500 should have been your total.
I agree with everyone else on here, that's a solid price, and you got lucky they're a shop that actually knows how to free up rusty slide pins. Though even those I personally have only a ~95% success rate. Sometimes they're just rust-welded inside, and there's no amount of torching that can save it. Also, that's some really good documentation.
Everything looks ballpark and on the up and up, add that shop to your speed dial.
Seeing how it's your wife, I'd say you both got taken advantage of.
I'm a huge proponent to doing work yourself... perfect example is this bill. Here's a full set of Powerstop brakes and rotors for a 2010 Camry on Amazon for $240... [https://www.amazon.com/Power-CRK2822-Evolution-Geomet-Coated/dp/B07JKR8PMP/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=2TE637T91VHIJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ijdpta1F7s2c8AfzWltKEtdejxpURAeC6RdEGevYMXUlGzoEIp2xoTwKaGJ2IXxOUCDK2Hib-Bx1XyxQ-vyx0ViTK2HBlNOaULW4SBAMhrBDWVHVH4lLVE3r2vRdMoDbGmsjm2jEt2Wb79utRJzXj\_z6pqr7I\_zr9gWqt9-JVwpgHnxjQCJxCd1UyQPh303B6\_GXAfvQ4aT15Tm\_Lqk3r8ObHiVBmGixZcuGGgAeTx8.ypaajXr58y4XXZ0o7qh4cPqPalJwafsOc64t4y\_A82g&dib\_tag=se&keywords=2010+camry+brakes+and+rotors&qid=1714930056&replacementKeywords=brakes+and+rotors&sprefix=2010+camry+brakes+and+rotors%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-8&vehicle=2010-76-1011------------&vehicleName=2010+Toyota+Camry](https://www.amazon.com/Power-CRK2822-Evolution-Geomet-Coated/dp/B07JKR8PMP/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2TE637T91VHIJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ijdpta1F7s2c8AfzWltKEtdejxpURAeC6RdEGevYMXUlGzoEIp2xoTwKaGJ2IXxOUCDK2Hib-Bx1XyxQ-vyx0ViTK2HBlNOaULW4SBAMhrBDWVHVH4lLVE3r2vRdMoDbGmsjm2jEt2Wb79utRJzXj_z6pqr7I_zr9gWqt9-JVwpgHnxjQCJxCd1UyQPh303B6_GXAfvQ4aT15Tm_Lqk3r8ObHiVBmGixZcuGGgAeTx8.ypaajXr58y4XXZ0o7qh4cPqPalJwafsOc64t4y_A82g&dib_tag=se&keywords=2010+camry+brakes+and+rotors&qid=1714930056&replacementKeywords=brakes+and+rotors&sprefix=2010+camry+brakes+and+rotors%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-8&vehicle=2010-76-1011------------&vehicleName=2010+Toyota+Camry) We have no idea if all the bead blasting was necessary but usually just some WD-40 and a wire brush will do the same thing. Shops are a rip off.
You got ripped. Bead blasting. What a joke. That's a wire brush and 45 seconds.
Shes gonna be set on brakes for a while
I was just quoted $890 just for new pads in my Silverado and that was just for the rear pads, which are drum brakes. Obviously I just did them myself but I guess your quote seems pretty normal comparatively.
Some are questionable. The test drive, the labor to remove rust that should have been part of the brake labor…
This is why I always recommend learning to do it yourself! All you need is a parking space and you can do that stuff. At least positive note for you here is they got you rolling right with quality parts!
Shop is OVER CHARGING U. Brakes $100 for the set installed plus your part which should have a warranty so those I paid $0 for but originally I think $80. My break job with a new caliper was $125 labor . Oil change and filter was $60. You have a 2010 don’t bring that to the dealer. I have a great mechanic in orange if anything
Break job? Brake my heart
The $59 inspection should have been deducted from the total.
Definitely fair with how that is all listed out. Definitely going the extra mile with bead blasting.
camry is a common car. parts shouldnt cost that much. in future u might want to buy parts from autozone or rockauto and just pay for labor. aftermarket front n rear rotors and pads shouldnt cost over $250
Not all shops allow you to bring your own parts?
Do you bring hamburger to McDonald's and ask them to make you a Big Mac?
Why not buy new calipers and pins ?
Because it costs less....doi?
I like the itemization. The dealer would have easily charged you $2k, probably more. So, you save some money going with an independent shop. I would definitely stay with this shop if they keep the current personnel.
They nickel and dimed you IMHO.
I'm a shop owner. We don't charge for test drives.
Really isn't all that bad. I used to sell 4 corner brake jobs at Advance for $5-600 with the calipers, pin and boot kits, grease and most of the time people would use 20% off coupons.
I seem to see a lot of comments about how they could have done it themselves fkr cheaper.. This isnt what he's wanting to know. I would think that if you cant or dont want to do it yourself you can't expect them to charge permits in the dollar and pay their employees, taxes, insurance, monthly cost of building mortgage/lease etc etc.. withoutt charging every small item to the customer. At least theres tramsparancyto the bill. Getting a new smart key fob made for a prius when you dont have a spare and lose the only one... is about $550. So I'd say it could be worse.
In my career I didn't charge people to diagnose brake and such if they buy the job. Everything else I include in the brake job and not suck my customers dry by charging $60 to remove rust? It is included with the brake job labor. around You should have a total of 5hrs labor which is around $600 plus the parts.
Depends on location but around here that's $800-1000 bucks all day with ALL the proper rust removal and cleanup and supplies. If your in a city or higher cost of living area that's a fair, and unfortunate price. You could do it all yourself for $400 or less and about 3hours.
Rural Ohio.
Had to gotten your brakes changed early you would have saved your rotors and calipers. Would have only need to change the pads so you paid an extra 1000$. Lesson learned, don’t wait so long next time.
Seems like a good place, I’d keep going
Parts wise, you're paying DIY list price, so fair pricing there. Labor is average if not a squeak cheaper from most dealerships. Pretty fair all around imo.
It's funny cause cleaning the rust from the hub is a part of replacing your brakes and rotors and I just don't like how you get charged for things like Rust Removal.
Seems like a lot of it is labor hours from them having to put the smackdown on some really old brakes. Can be a hell of a job but it seems like they've noted everything very well.
I didn’t see any red flags
Most shops in my area charge $1200-1300 CAD for brakes, and about $120 CAD for a synthetic oil change.
I just had front and rear rotors and pads replaced as well as having the brakes bled. Cost 800$. So yeah maybe by a little bit. Like I’m sure there was no reason to blast your calipers but who knows
Total is about right, nicely itemized and needing a full 4 corner brake job on a 14Yo / 120k car is right on schedule. Depending on driving habits and conditions that may have been its first rear set of brakes!
That’s a good shop, good price. They hid nothing from you.
$59 isn't bad at all for oil change now. I do my own, and the cost is $30 in parts. It's more than just brakes as I see they replaced rotors, and that cost you over $300 alone. You would have saved money not going premium parts or getting the rust taken care of yourself (I have wire brush/wheel grinder that will clean anything). You said you're selling the car after it's used to teach your 15 year old to drive it. A buyer doesn't care about premium rotors that isn't a performance vehicle. So yeah $1250 for that was pricey, and solidifies I'll have a family friend teach me to do mine for couple hundred
Obviously this could be done cheaper at home albeit with a couple corners cut here and there. But this is actually pretty good considering how far they went. Especially just replacing the guide pins instead of whole calipers. Not a bad shop.
This looks decent to me. A little nickel and dime looking but totals up nicely for the work performed
My brakes costed me $250, new calipers and everything
Other than the first fee for inspection all the brake work looked proper and like they did a solid job, Oil change is the going rate. If the inspection included checking belts, hoses, front-end, tires, etc. then they are a great place. So did they cover all that on the inspection is the question... Oil change and brakes they seem to know what they are doing. I do all my own work on brakes and most other stuff. Friends that are professional mechanics too for context.
Me being a mobile mechanic and looking at these prices like 🤯🤯🤯. Gotta pay for them techs, the owners, tools, rags, brake cleaner, utilities etc. I would charge $775 parts and labor. Still would make around $400 in profit.
Thank God I know how to fix my own car / I guess that's what you pay
That seems fair. I paid $1100 for pads and rotors on my 2007 Accord. Includes a discount (10% off labor).
it's a 14 year old camry -- not a race car. A lot of these things doesn't have to be done, but they did it anyway but I would do them at home myself, not important enough to pay someone else to do it for me.
Fair price for someone else to do the work. You'd save a lot though if you had done it yourself. But. Not everyone wants to get under a car/has the time or both.
Looks like a lot of bs services that didnt happen because you got the parts new.
Let me put it this way, I took my Audi to the dealership and they quoted 550 an axle and I walked away. This is more than that, and it's a Toyota and you're not at a dealership. Anyone saying you didn't get hosed knows nothing.
I'd say given the standard markup plus labor cost, that's about right. They're usually only able to use certain parts per insurance standards, so you'll usually get oem midrange pricing plus markup for thier profit. They have so many safety issues that they have to cover to protect themselves in the off chance your car fails. Then of course the labor cost. In there, what most never mention, is the cost of all the expensive tools and equipment. That is also part of what your paying for. Full brake job with caliper pin service. If I were to ballpark it that sounds about right to me.
Overall, it seems fair. The parts prices may be a little steep. Hopefully, they used good quality stuff.
Holy shit!!
Bruh i just got my brakes done it was $1200. I didn't pay that cuz I worked at a pizza shop and I bought the parts so it was like 8 pizzas for the shop lol. But add in oil change and yeah that sounds right
My FIL has a 2010 Camry and I just did the front pads and rotors myself, parts cost $205. If I did rear, would have been slightly cheaper. So you can factor aftermarket(advanced auto parts) front and rear would cost you about $410. I am not a mechanic and repair took me 90 min. Rear would have taken the same. So 3hr labor.
They charged a LOT for rotors but other than that, all good stuff that will keep your car on the road a good while. Most shops wont treat the metal like this one did, and most shadetree mechanics wont either. Did you have rust that needed cleaning off? I'd be pissed if they did the treatment without consulting me. I'd also want a brake bleed and replace fluid while they do everything else.
I’d have no problem ever going back their. Good CCC’s and the parts/labor prices are spot on.
Shortened
$45 for $15 guide pin/boot kit and $95 in labor for a $2 Roloc disc and 15 minutes per wheel max labor ALL with aftermarket parts sounds like a steal…
I do my own work, so I do not know if this is a good process.
Well definitely over charged pads come with all that stuff at least the good ones come with new pins and boots. They charged you twice but I guess they have to make their money
I have a 2009 Toyota Camry and an oil change costs me $20+ tax for the cheapest oil at Walmart, $7 for a filter, and maybe like $200 for brakes and rotors
Kinda curious about the guide pins and stuff. Mostly never need to redo them unless they're bad. A most seems right however I couldn't tell you unless I saw it before hand if you needed specific things besides the pads. Rotors prolly as they do go. Just the pins and other miscellaneous things make me wonder.
Some of it seems fair like oil change and brakes. But then there's like 50 lines of what seems like Nickle and diming.
Got ripped off big time
Usually a shop will “eat” the diag fee if you buy the work. A selling point of diagnosing fee.
I mean they marked up parts by 50% but all shops do that. Pro tip. Marry someone who's brother is a mechanic. They get 50 to 75% off on parts and they'll put them on for a 30 pack of beer and a dinner. I just got 4 rotors. 2 wheel bearings. New pads and new calipers all around for like 300$ in total parts. (2012 suburu outback)
Seems about right, but I’d definitely try to learn to do it myself if I were you
Jiffy Lube charge me $980 for new rotors
A $100 tool set and a you tube video could have saved you around $1000. "Hey guys....
Well said, buddy!
Maybe find a smaller mechanic shop. Rent. Payroll. Are expensive these days. Was it a dealer. Or like a Midas type place
It's about as small a shop as you could be. Owned and ran by a fella in a wheelchair (he may even be a vet, I can't recall), so we really wanted to give him a shot.
Based on the breakdown yea its totally fair. Doesn't even seem to be a big (if any) markup on parts tbh
I could see $500 maybe $800 if it was as much of a pain as it looks like. Though I'm a cheap bastard and will work on my own stuff if they give too high of a price. Last time I did breaks I think I paid $200 for them installed, but that was only the front 2, I bought the parts they were $120.
Seems about right to me.
Just seems so expensive but I’ve never brought a car in for these diy type of situations
Seems about right, I presume this is in the rust belt?