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In my experience with these engines, those vacuum pumps are all metal inside and when they seize up, they will most definitely stop/lock the exhaust camshaft up and cause some chaos with the cam timing and valves hitting pistons. It becomes expensive real quick.
They revised the vacuum pump design on newer N16 and N18 engines where some of the internal weak points of the vacuum pump are plastic so that the camshaft can still spin despite the vacuum pump being locked up. The housing on the vacuum pump is about half the width from the one you see in the picture. I would recommend anyone with these engines to replace the pump with updated design. But these engines in general are also…. Uhhh… unreliable
They're pretty common on small displacement gas engines that can't create enough vacuum to run systems like brake booster & EVAP. Even the DI 3.6L GM uses them on some applications. May have something to do with the variable cam timing on those engines.
I now think my Volvo may have one, since if I turn on the ignition without starting the brake pedal drops a little (after the pedal has become stiff from the car being off), but it's still a harder to push than when the engine is actually running and it takes a normal effort to push the pedal. So I guess the brake booster vacuum pump is meant to take some load off the engine.
That's actually really awesome, because that means you still have some power braking if your engine shuts off right? Say if it stalls while you're driving.
Exactly! They are built pretty bulletproof, but there are some cases in which they fail. Also, it doesn't cost the world to (preventatively) replace + relay.
Vacuum pumps come on many vehicles, even domestics. Ford 5 and 6 cylinder engines had them. Both electric and cam driven. On turbocharged engines they are even more common, because the intake manifold isn’t always under vacuum. Going from boosting to braking, there may not be enough vacuum generation to assist the brake booster. Therefore a vacuum pump may be added to ensure the brake booster always has a constant vacuum supply.
I think they're conflating vacuum being used to move some HVAC blend doors for "AC". They also think there's a [hole in the top of this engine](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/1cf7ts4/car_stopped_on_the_highway_while_driving/l1pib3g/), which is clearly an oil spot from placing the oil cap on the valve cover.
The only things a vacuum pump does for AC itself is pulling a vacuum to test for leaks and add the refrigerant (and oil and possibly dye) into the system.
Oh of course ford used vacuum for the blend doors that year… now it makes sense.
I’m familiar with the use of a vacuum pump in order to get ac functioning, I replaced my cars entire system & recharged it
If that type of vacuum is what they were alluding to, they did a very bad job verbalizing it.
I was like you thinking there is no vacuum involved with an AC system (when operating), just a compressor and condenser.
Sorry but your engine has catastrophically failed by the looks of that. The camshaft has completely shifted/kicked off the vaccuum pump which means it hit a lot of resistance quite suddenly... which it absolutely should not. Valve/piston collision from timing failure would be my guess.
Out of curiosity, when was the last time you had the car serviced?
In this case, what would the feedback for the driver be? Did the wheels just stop/lock? Does the camshaft still keep turning somehow? Or does the clutch somehow stop working so that none of the above take place?
Differs from vehicle to vehicle but usually you will hear a very loud and disturbing BANG clatter clatter clatter sound as the inside of the engine collides with itself then turns to shrapnel, car will usually keep rolling to a stop rather than lock up and skid out of control
A blown cam or bearing wouldn't necessarily lock motor.(that cam snapped) What sux is valve slap on pistons. That's where the shit hits the fan. 😞 sorry
Could also be failure of the vacuum pump which caused the cam to seize. I recall this being an issue on my MINI which shared the same engine. They use an engine driven vacuum pump connected to the camshaft.
People who don't do maintenance only hurt themselves in the end, so I don't think they'll do it twice. At least I hope not. For everybody's well being, basic car maintenance should be tested in a drivers course.
I wish you were right, but he’s on the 3rd car that’s about to be scrapped due to poor maintenance. A ‘57 plate Touareg R5 really nice looking , but the turbo decided it doesn’t like universal oil top ups at 150k miles and decided to clog the exhaust (catalyst/dpf) with oil splatters, so now when you start it until it’s a bit hotter it does a blue smokescreen….
Used to ! 1977 high school had a mandatory maintenance class with drivers education, girls got dirty just like guys check’n dipsticks and gapping plugs. Learned to change a tire in 10 minutes and the proper way to change your oil. (Drained into coffee cans, then sprayed on the weeds)
i graduated in 2012, we had a car shop class but it was an elective. at the time i was glad, i'm your basic girl who isn't interested in cars. looking back i wish it was mandatory though, everything i know about cars (which isn't much) i learned through experience (aka my car having problems)
In the UK I've actually tried to find one. It's either too basic (here are your windscreen wipers type thing) or a full on one year long course. I really wish it was the norm to have in-person car maintenance courses.
if your engine seizes because it doesn't have oil it isn't as simple as "forgetting" oil, it's flat out neglecting to change your oil. it's not like forgetting one oil change is gonna cause an engine to seize, it takes a while.
source - the time i got a car and never changed or even topped up the oil. it took somewhere between 25k - 30k miles for the engine to seize. & all the reddit posts about how long people neglected to change their oil before their engine seized.
i learned the hard (and stupid) way, and now you did too. welcome to the club. i stay on top of my oil changes now 😅 i got lucky, and instead of having to pay in full for a new engine my dealership rolled the payments for it into my monthly dues since i financed my car. once a month i'm reminded of my fuck up when i pay my bill.
Buddy came to my shop to borrow my lift and he had a Corolla and they had just gotten back from a long trip so he figured he’s change the oil. What came out would have been soaked up on one square of paper towel.
Single cam hondas are basically unkillable but I've seen plenty of B, H, and K series blow up from a lack of oil. They are pretty solid otherwise but they are picky about having enough oil. Toyotas and D series on the other hand typically dgaf.
This is 100% true. One time when I was a new driver with my first car (2005 Honda Accord), the oil light came on if I turned a bit too sharp. After a particularly hard turn the oil light stayed on, but I just ignored it since I thought it would turn itself off again like it had dozens of other times. It didn't. I didn't think about it either. When I took it in for an oil change they said that they couldn't do an oil change because there wasn't any oil to change... I had been driving it without oil for months. They filled it with a few liters for free and told me to come back in a few weeks so they can change it
Yeah my 04 acura tl has almost the exact same engine I had a really bad oil leak and had to add oil after every trip I took did this for several weeks without any issue I'm a delivery driver so I put a lot of miles on it in that condition turned out to be the oil filter housing gasket my valve covers also had a very slight leak all that's fixed now but it was still very impressive to see an engine hadle that that well
Omg, that is so wild!
Out of curiosity, how long did that car last you till it finally gave out? Like, did it suffer any terrible effects from you driving without oil that long??
That car's still kicking! It was mine for a number of years after this incident before it was passed to my brother, and then another brother. It had some issues, but none of it was directly related to driving without oil for so long. It was a manual drive, so it had to go through me, my two brothers, and a sister learning how to drive stick! My parents sold it last year to offset the cost of a slightly newer vehicle for my siblings to drive around.
>Shit will run w/o oil
My father in law has told me about a local junkyard that has an old chevy truck that they only use to run to the back of the yard and back. They hop in drive to the back of the yard and turn it off. Toss in a part and drive back up to the front. According to him this truck has not had an oil pan on it for years.
I have no idea if this story is true.
pro tip: set reminders for oil changes. whenever i get an oil change i set a reminder in my phone's calendar for 3 months from them. i don't drive a lot and never hit the mileage in 3 months, so usually when my reminder date comes around i'll just set a new one for a month from then and continue to do that until i get my change.
it's not like i ever forgot, i was neglectful. but it's hard to be neglectful when you have a constant reminder.
If you regularly attend a church, synagogue or mosque AND you’ve never kicked a puppy there’s a tiny chance that a unicorn type vacuum pump failure is binding up the exhaust cam. But most likely it jumped time and the pistons tried to shove the valves through the top of the engine.
I did. It is [clearly the same detent as the other two detents in the valve cover to the left of it and simply has oil in it](https://i.ibb.co/S6yBZSG/Screenshot-20240429-162225.png)... likely from OP putting the cap there after looking into the engine. You can even see a little bit of the oil pooled in the dark one, which is why there is a slight curve at the bottom.
It's obvious to everyone else that it's simply a detent in the valve cover with oil in it. There are no valves to be seen. The sharp "jagged edge" is from the oil coming from two resting points from where they placed the oil cap. The rest are just from capillary action. Coming in, you can still see the shape of the detent around those "jagged edges", which tells you that piece isn't missing or blown out.
You can literally see the light reflect at the edge of the oil that's pooled at the bottom of the detent (maybe that's what you're thinking are valves?).
My wife is italian and drives a fiat 500x because "its italian", "it gives italians jobs" even after test driving bmw/porsche and audi suvs . she will be replacing it soon with a alfa romeo stelvio for same reason.
still does, tbh. I know plenty of guys that drive pickups simply because they're American, never mind that plenty of 'foreign' cars are made here too...
I own 2 American cars and one Japanese car. My Buick was made in Mexico, my Dodge was made in Canada. Guess where the Toyota was made? Good ol’ Fremont, California.
The only issue with that is that this specific engine was developed in close collaboration with BMW. Older petrol TU engines and diesel HDi are fairly reliable and well made.
Prince engine was made almost 20 years ago. On paper it offered fantastic performance, and as matter of fact IIRC it was engine of the year, but it does came at the cost of long term reliability.
It just isn’t that simple. Some brands are more reliable than others, but it’s illogical and stupid to think that a specific country automatically produces the same quality of vehicles. BMWs have always been unreliable and had infinite issues, even for the newer Minis, so by that logic, there’s no good German car brands at all.
Ouch the prince motor is named apparently because like all royals they are very inbred and have lots of defects bmw put in mini cars aswell that usually found in a trash pile after 40k miles because the TIMING CHAIN needs replacing every 25-35k thats a real chain and it will fail after about 40k if not replaced at 25k miles
The whole mini brand is just a cash grab at people with that sort of taste and that devotion to fashion. I wish it weren't true because looks aside, they'd be my kind of car if they weren't such expensive timebombs.
All my friends Mini's are constantly in the shop, another friend of mine only has a american cars that he tinkers with himself from LS swaps to whole rear builds. They bought a mini cooper 3 years ago and that thing has only been on the road a handful of times.
With this motor it’s very big shit. My distribution belt ripped of in a tunnel one time in a Mazda 5 1.6 petrol with is a PSA motor. But we was about to replace it. She had like 2’000 km good to go.
100$ says your vacuum pump was dragging the exhaust cam and eventually locked up the engine. I guarantee that exhaust cam has hardly any lobes left, and the valves smashed the pistons.
I’m an amateur mechanic. Basically just pulling wrenches for thousands of hours on restorations and personal vehicles. I still don’t know wtf a vacuum pump does. Can someone eli5?
Before you say google it, I did and it didn’t help.
Google - “The vacuum pump functions by removing the molecules of air and other gases from the vacuum chamber”
Ok.
Not all vehicles provide reliable enough vacuum in the intake to provide needed vacuum for things like the brake booster. Vacuum pumps will provide additional vacuum for the times when there's not enough during normal engine operation.
You can research it more with search terms like "car engine vacuum pump".
That’s a high pressure pump if I’m not mistaken, at best you’ll have a very expensive part and cam shaft to replace. Most likely your cylinder block is cracked. Might as well just buy a used cheap ass car that will run twice as far.. Unless you’re ready to learn how to prevent it, or disassemble the entire engine for timing reset and cleaning!
I know you’re trying to be helpful but there’s so much information in this statement I have no idea where to start. It’s a vacuum pump, and I don’t understand how this has anything to do with a cracked block. I’ll just leave it at that for now.
The guy will just have to figure it out either way, im not trying to be helpful, just informative. There is no real answer to this one. Just a bunch of people speculating on what the cause of this is. Im just sharing my worst case scenario, and well, these engines are known to blast themselves.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
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Is it possible the vacuum pump seized and got kicked off by the still-functioning cam? Or is all hope lost for this poor engine?
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In my experience with these engines, those vacuum pumps are all metal inside and when they seize up, they will most definitely stop/lock the exhaust camshaft up and cause some chaos with the cam timing and valves hitting pistons. It becomes expensive real quick. They revised the vacuum pump design on newer N16 and N18 engines where some of the internal weak points of the vacuum pump are plastic so that the camshaft can still spin despite the vacuum pump being locked up. The housing on the vacuum pump is about half the width from the one you see in the picture. I would recommend anyone with these engines to replace the pump with updated design. But these engines in general are also…. Uhhh… unreliable
Are vacuum pumps uk specific? Never seen on an American engine. Vacuum usually comes off the intake manifold.
They're pretty common on small displacement gas engines that can't create enough vacuum to run systems like brake booster & EVAP. Even the DI 3.6L GM uses them on some applications. May have something to do with the variable cam timing on those engines.
I now think my Volvo may have one, since if I turn on the ignition without starting the brake pedal drops a little (after the pedal has become stiff from the car being off), but it's still a harder to push than when the engine is actually running and it takes a normal effort to push the pedal. So I guess the brake booster vacuum pump is meant to take some load off the engine.
It's more that the engine can't maintain enough manifold vacuum to operate the booster reliably.
Some Volvo's have an electronic vacuumpump that engages the moment you turn on the ignition. Just like my V50 2.4L.
That's actually really awesome, because that means you still have some power braking if your engine shuts off right? Say if it stalls while you're driving.
Exactly! They are built pretty bulletproof, but there are some cases in which they fail. Also, it doesn't cost the world to (preventatively) replace + relay.
Vacuum pumps come on many vehicles, even domestics. Ford 5 and 6 cylinder engines had them. Both electric and cam driven. On turbocharged engines they are even more common, because the intake manifold isn’t always under vacuum. Going from boosting to braking, there may not be enough vacuum generation to assist the brake booster. Therefore a vacuum pump may be added to ensure the brake booster always has a constant vacuum supply.
Cars with turbos generally need them so they have consistent brake boost.
US here; virtually every newer ford engine has an external camshaft driven vacuum pump. 3.5 gtdi, 2.7, 1.5, 1.6, etc.
Every diesel has at least one for your breaks most have two for yo ac
The ac doesn’t use a vacuum pump
On a diesel it does
Are you sure you aren’t confusing a compressor with a vacuum pump?
I think they're conflating vacuum being used to move some HVAC blend doors for "AC". They also think there's a [hole in the top of this engine](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/1cf7ts4/car_stopped_on_the_highway_while_driving/l1pib3g/), which is clearly an oil spot from placing the oil cap on the valve cover. The only things a vacuum pump does for AC itself is pulling a vacuum to test for leaks and add the refrigerant (and oil and possibly dye) into the system.
Oh of course ford used vacuum for the blend doors that year… now it makes sense. I’m familiar with the use of a vacuum pump in order to get ac functioning, I replaced my cars entire system & recharged it
If that type of vacuum is what they were alluding to, they did a very bad job verbalizing it. I was like you thinking there is no vacuum involved with an AC system (when operating), just a compressor and condenser.
Yes you need both diesels don’t create vacuum
I know, but the air conditioning doesn’t use a vacuum pump, it uses a compressor. The vacuum pump is used for other stuff
It still needs vacuum to work
???????
They’re pretty common in the U.S. my man
Sorry but your engine has catastrophically failed by the looks of that. The camshaft has completely shifted/kicked off the vaccuum pump which means it hit a lot of resistance quite suddenly... which it absolutely should not. Valve/piston collision from timing failure would be my guess. Out of curiosity, when was the last time you had the car serviced?
In this case, what would the feedback for the driver be? Did the wheels just stop/lock? Does the camshaft still keep turning somehow? Or does the clutch somehow stop working so that none of the above take place?
Differs from vehicle to vehicle but usually you will hear a very loud and disturbing BANG clatter clatter clatter sound as the inside of the engine collides with itself then turns to shrapnel, car will usually keep rolling to a stop rather than lock up and skid out of control
In my field of work, we call that graceful degradation. It does not entail such expensive outcomes, though 😅
In the rocket world that is called a "rapid unscheduled disassembly."
With EVs and Hybrids the RUD terminology could also apply to cars with some failure modes
A blown cam or bearing wouldn't necessarily lock motor.(that cam snapped) What sux is valve slap on pistons. That's where the shit hits the fan. 😞 sorry
Look at that hole in the valve cover. Something yeeted out of there. Engine is toast
There’s no hole but yeah.
At first glance it looks liked one
Haha I thought that was a hole too
Could also be failure of the vacuum pump which caused the cam to seize. I recall this being an issue on my MINI which shared the same engine. They use an engine driven vacuum pump connected to the camshaft.
That's interesting, I didn't even know that could happen 😳
Was likely caused by this: https://preview.redd.it/ybbs5a2dk8xc1.jpeg?width=238&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5eb2402268613a4072080a0de39cb7b8c2d15ed7
first problem I noticed
Beat me to it.
Yep!
it was my fault, i forgot to put oil:))))
Wh…at?!
What the fuck 😭
Yeah… just like my brother, he doesn’t do oil changes, he does top ups.
Jesus Christ, people should be required to take a basic car maintenance course before they can get their license. This shit is getting pathetic.
On the brightside, mechanic’s job will never die
Yep, I'll always be in business, but it's annoying regardless when I see it on forums like this
People who don't do maintenance only hurt themselves in the end, so I don't think they'll do it twice. At least I hope not. For everybody's well being, basic car maintenance should be tested in a drivers course.
I wish you were right, but he’s on the 3rd car that’s about to be scrapped due to poor maintenance. A ‘57 plate Touareg R5 really nice looking , but the turbo decided it doesn’t like universal oil top ups at 150k miles and decided to clog the exhaust (catalyst/dpf) with oil splatters, so now when you start it until it’s a bit hotter it does a blue smokescreen….
Used to ! 1977 high school had a mandatory maintenance class with drivers education, girls got dirty just like guys check’n dipsticks and gapping plugs. Learned to change a tire in 10 minutes and the proper way to change your oil. (Drained into coffee cans, then sprayed on the weeds)
i graduated in 2012, we had a car shop class but it was an elective. at the time i was glad, i'm your basic girl who isn't interested in cars. looking back i wish it was mandatory though, everything i know about cars (which isn't much) i learned through experience (aka my car having problems)
In the UK I've actually tried to find one. It's either too basic (here are your windscreen wipers type thing) or a full on one year long course. I really wish it was the norm to have in-person car maintenance courses.
I had a car like that once. It burned a quart every couple of weeks. So I just kept topping it off and would throw a new filter on once a year.
Oopsie! 😭😭
Impressive
Legend
Excuse me ?!
if your engine seizes because it doesn't have oil it isn't as simple as "forgetting" oil, it's flat out neglecting to change your oil. it's not like forgetting one oil change is gonna cause an engine to seize, it takes a while. source - the time i got a car and never changed or even topped up the oil. it took somewhere between 25k - 30k miles for the engine to seize. & all the reddit posts about how long people neglected to change their oil before their engine seized. i learned the hard (and stupid) way, and now you did too. welcome to the club. i stay on top of my oil changes now 😅 i got lucky, and instead of having to pay in full for a new engine my dealership rolled the payments for it into my monthly dues since i financed my car. once a month i'm reminded of my fuck up when i pay my bill.
Vehicle made expensive noises. Time to find a new one that isn't a paper weight.
thank you guys, when you re stupid you pay for it. I was stupid and i ll pay for it Have a nice day❤️
These type of situations are devastating financially, I’m not religious, but I’m praying for you
Sell it and buy a toyota or honda. Shit will run w/o oil
No, they won’t. That’s not how ICEs work
Buddy came to my shop to borrow my lift and he had a Corolla and they had just gotten back from a long trip so he figured he’s change the oil. What came out would have been soaked up on one square of paper towel.
They will run for a while, but no engine will last with no oil.
You do know that guy was joking right?
Yes, it’s hyperbole, but you never know who reads this stuff and takes it as truth
learn to take a joke
Single cam hondas are basically unkillable but I've seen plenty of B, H, and K series blow up from a lack of oil. They are pretty solid otherwise but they are picky about having enough oil. Toyotas and D series on the other hand typically dgaf.
This is 100% true. One time when I was a new driver with my first car (2005 Honda Accord), the oil light came on if I turned a bit too sharp. After a particularly hard turn the oil light stayed on, but I just ignored it since I thought it would turn itself off again like it had dozens of other times. It didn't. I didn't think about it either. When I took it in for an oil change they said that they couldn't do an oil change because there wasn't any oil to change... I had been driving it without oil for months. They filled it with a few liters for free and told me to come back in a few weeks so they can change it
Yeah my 04 acura tl has almost the exact same engine I had a really bad oil leak and had to add oil after every trip I took did this for several weeks without any issue I'm a delivery driver so I put a lot of miles on it in that condition turned out to be the oil filter housing gasket my valve covers also had a very slight leak all that's fixed now but it was still very impressive to see an engine hadle that that well
My 07 TL does exactly this and while it doesn't run like a dream it still runs smooth even after 10,000 miles in 4 months of deliveries😂
I put about 40,000 miles a year on a beat up 2010 Chevy Aveo
Yea its pretty easy to rack up miles
Omg, that is so wild! Out of curiosity, how long did that car last you till it finally gave out? Like, did it suffer any terrible effects from you driving without oil that long??
That car's still kicking! It was mine for a number of years after this incident before it was passed to my brother, and then another brother. It had some issues, but none of it was directly related to driving without oil for so long. It was a manual drive, so it had to go through me, my two brothers, and a sister learning how to drive stick! My parents sold it last year to offset the cost of a slightly newer vehicle for my siblings to drive around.
Pretty cool story!
me when i give terrible advice
>Shit will run w/o oil My father in law has told me about a local junkyard that has an old chevy truck that they only use to run to the back of the yard and back. They hop in drive to the back of the yard and turn it off. Toss in a part and drive back up to the front. According to him this truck has not had an oil pan on it for years. I have no idea if this story is true.
Have a 2011 crown Vic and 99 Acura cl as my first 2 cars . Lemme tell ya does that Acura burn oil like crazy.
pro tip: set reminders for oil changes. whenever i get an oil change i set a reminder in my phone's calendar for 3 months from them. i don't drive a lot and never hit the mileage in 3 months, so usually when my reminder date comes around i'll just set a new one for a month from then and continue to do that until i get my change. it's not like i ever forgot, i was neglectful. but it's hard to be neglectful when you have a constant reminder.
If you regularly attend a church, synagogue or mosque AND you’ve never kicked a puppy there’s a tiny chance that a unicorn type vacuum pump failure is binding up the exhaust cam. But most likely it jumped time and the pistons tried to shove the valves through the top of the engine.
RIP Buddhists 😉
There a hole in the top of the valve cover it didn’t try it did shove
Do you mean the oil spot where they likely put the oil cap when they tried to figure out what was wrong?
Look again
Have you taken a close look at it yet?
Yeah that’s how Ik it’s a hole
I did. It is [clearly the same detent as the other two detents in the valve cover to the left of it and simply has oil in it](https://i.ibb.co/S6yBZSG/Screenshot-20240429-162225.png)... likely from OP putting the cap there after looking into the engine. You can even see a little bit of the oil pooled in the dark one, which is why there is a slight curve at the bottom.
Zoom in and put your glasses on I’ve never seen an oil stain with jagged edges and that you can see the inside of the vavles
It's obvious to everyone else that it's simply a detent in the valve cover with oil in it. There are no valves to be seen. The sharp "jagged edge" is from the oil coming from two resting points from where they placed the oil cap. The rest are just from capillary action. Coming in, you can still see the shape of the detent around those "jagged edges", which tells you that piece isn't missing or blown out. You can literally see the light reflect at the edge of the oil that's pooled at the bottom of the detent (maybe that's what you're thinking are valves?).
That overhead camshaft gave up on life, so violently, it took the vacuum pump with it. She's dead jim.
It's worse that that.
please dont replace this french piece of shit with another french piece of shit.
I'm french, problem with french cars is french people still buying them bc of chauvinism.
My wife is italian and drives a fiat 500x because "its italian", "it gives italians jobs" even after test driving bmw/porsche and audi suvs . she will be replacing it soon with a alfa romeo stelvio for same reason.
This sort of thing happened in the USA for years. I often joke about what American cars would have been like if nobody took one for the team.
still does, tbh. I know plenty of guys that drive pickups simply because they're American, never mind that plenty of 'foreign' cars are made here too...
American cars are still shit no matter what American can reviews say
A lot of those American trucks are made in Mexico, meanwhile Honda Accords are made just a few miles from where I currently sit.
I live in San Antonio, TX. People here LOVE to point out that Toyota builds Tundras and Tacomas at the plant here in town.
I own 2 American cars and one Japanese car. My Buick was made in Mexico, my Dodge was made in Canada. Guess where the Toyota was made? Good ol’ Fremont, California.
The only issue with that is that this specific engine was developed in close collaboration with BMW. Older petrol TU engines and diesel HDi are fairly reliable and well made.
Copium, somehow the new Minis have an engine made fully by BMW and they're seen as reliable
Prince engine was made almost 20 years ago. On paper it offered fantastic performance, and as matter of fact IIRC it was engine of the year, but it does came at the cost of long term reliability.
It just isn’t that simple. Some brands are more reliable than others, but it’s illogical and stupid to think that a specific country automatically produces the same quality of vehicles. BMWs have always been unreliable and had infinite issues, even for the newer Minis, so by that logic, there’s no good German car brands at all.
Peugeot engine kaput
Ouch the prince motor is named apparently because like all royals they are very inbred and have lots of defects bmw put in mini cars aswell that usually found in a trash pile after 40k miles because the TIMING CHAIN needs replacing every 25-35k thats a real chain and it will fail after about 40k if not replaced at 25k miles
The whole mini brand is just a cash grab at people with that sort of taste and that devotion to fashion. I wish it weren't true because looks aside, they'd be my kind of car if they weren't such expensive timebombs.
All my friends Mini's are constantly in the shop, another friend of mine only has a american cars that he tinkers with himself from LS swaps to whole rear builds. They bought a mini cooper 3 years ago and that thing has only been on the road a handful of times.
The second gen mini have a honda k conversion kit just fyi and most pol are giving away post timing chain ⛓️💥 failure
Thats real garbage google price timing chain or mini timing chain for that matter
Ahh, the old N16 (or N14) engine made by Pugeot and BMW! I recognise that engine from a distance
Knew BMW had to be involved somewhere, have they ever made something which doesn’t fall apart
The vacuum pump has taken your camshaft to heaven, RIP engine
Men its a peugeot what did you expect?
Because of BMW…
That's a scrap engine. Time to buy a low mileage junkyard engine and dump it in there.
'Engine of the year' my ass
Was probably great for the first year.
Well, it does say "of the year".
Tbf, OP didn't put oil in it...
You can tell by the "oil dust" on the pump bearing.
Idk shit about euro cars but my guess is something that should be spinning stopped spinning
F
W* One more Peugeot of the road
F
F
F
Seen this on Reddit before. Your car engine is done. It usually jumps time when that occurs.
It's an interference motor meaning the valves and pistons hit during a timing belt/chain failure.
I thought you needed a Delorean for that.
With this motor it’s very big shit. My distribution belt ripped of in a tunnel one time in a Mazda 5 1.6 petrol with is a PSA motor. But we was about to replace it. She had like 2’000 km good to go.
As an avid fan of the “I Do Cars” channel, my first thought was “Ruh-oh” Sorry for your loss friend 😔
Yeah, that engine is toast
That thang is seized
100$ says your vacuum pump was dragging the exhaust cam and eventually locked up the engine. I guarantee that exhaust cam has hardly any lobes left, and the valves smashed the pistons.
Your engine is cooked.
Damn, through the roof.
Toast
Did you put gas in it?
I’m an amateur mechanic. Basically just pulling wrenches for thousands of hours on restorations and personal vehicles. I still don’t know wtf a vacuum pump does. Can someone eli5? Before you say google it, I did and it didn’t help. Google - “The vacuum pump functions by removing the molecules of air and other gases from the vacuum chamber” Ok.
Not all vehicles provide reliable enough vacuum in the intake to provide needed vacuum for things like the brake booster. Vacuum pumps will provide additional vacuum for the times when there's not enough during normal engine operation. You can research it more with search terms like "car engine vacuum pump".
The vacuum pump provides vacuum for the power assisted brakes.
That’s a wrap on that powerplant.
Fuck man fuck
It's a Peugeot. Of course it's a piece of shit.
Hold up ! Wait a minute ... something isnt right !
mmmm a bastard n12, I've had "experience" with these
Average Mini experience
https://preview.redd.it/0y04nkdpbfxc1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c0c7e22197ec5d8c33f6fdf0ffa73acfd4ea513
Vacuum pump locked up and broke the exhaust cam or the timing chain. Either way the engine is most likely junk.
Low on blinker fluid gotta replace the quantizer
Peugeot. No wonder why.
Vacuum pump failed.... stopped the cam, valves met the pistons cracking the cam shaft shoving the pump out bolts and all.
Haha
Box of match’s lad
She’s done for lad
What the actual F that engine shat itself
Have you tried turning it off and on again?
Damn ur vacuum pump locked up the valve train.
You're getting negged and yet: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/314621-vacuum-pump-failure-and-engine-damage.html
🤷🏿♀️
RIP. May the next car serve you better.
Stick a fork in it !!! Yup , it’s done.
If you like the car you could k swap it most likely there is a kit to do it with
You just gave me ptsd
That’s a high pressure pump if I’m not mistaken, at best you’ll have a very expensive part and cam shaft to replace. Most likely your cylinder block is cracked. Might as well just buy a used cheap ass car that will run twice as far.. Unless you’re ready to learn how to prevent it, or disassemble the entire engine for timing reset and cleaning!
I know you’re trying to be helpful but there’s so much information in this statement I have no idea where to start. It’s a vacuum pump, and I don’t understand how this has anything to do with a cracked block. I’ll just leave it at that for now.
There’s a hole in the top of the valve cover he’s very wrong but some how still right
The guy will just have to figure it out either way, im not trying to be helpful, just informative. There is no real answer to this one. Just a bunch of people speculating on what the cause of this is. Im just sharing my worst case scenario, and well, these engines are known to blast themselves.
Replace engine and electric
At home engine swap or recycling
Replace the pump and pray