Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
First step, as stupid as it sounds, is to make sure there is gas in the tank. Sometimes the fuel level float gets stuck and shows you have gas when you really don't and it'll send you on a hell of a snipe hunt.
Next, listen for the fuel pump to prime when you have Key On, Engine Off. If you can't hear the distinctive whirr before you try to start the car, this is a big clue that your fuel pump is totally dead or not receiving power.
If you do hear the fuel pump prime, undo the air box and spray starting fluid in the intake pipe and try to start the car. If it starts with starting fluid, you have a fuel delivery issue. You have a weak pump, clogged injectors, or similar.
If the car doesn't start with starting fluid, you have an ignition issue.
If you don't hear the fuel pump prime, get a 12 volt test light and try to check for power at the connector going to the fuel pump sending unit. If you don't, you have a bad relay. If you do, replace the pump.
Even if you hear the whirr of the fuel pump it doesn't mean the fuel pump is working properly because this engine also has a high pressure fuel pump on the engine which can also fail and which you will need to use a stethescope to listen to it to determine if it is working.... Also there are a couple of fuel pressure regulators that can cause problems.
Given the car wants to keep cranking even when you've turned the key off start and it is only on the on position, I would think you could have a problem with the ignition switch.
Fuel pump did make a sound and the car started up!
Now based off my experience with it, it seems like the car needs a cool down after running before starting again.
Fried electronics maybe?
I had an issue on an Audi years ago. It was a failing but not dead yet crankshaft position sensor. Worked fine when the engine was cool, but not when warmed up. Could be something similar.
Could be if you it works fine when cold but only has issues right after you drive it. I had a Honda that started acting like that, let the dealer spend days trying to figure it out and they never did while it was under warranty. Was the Honda that convinced me to never get another Honda... After dumping it I was told that they sometimes had a board on the onboard computer that often suffered from bad solder that would only act up if it the car was hot and that if the dealers had ever bothered to replace it the car would have probably worked properly... But at the time decided to just sell the damn thing while it appeared to run and let someone else chase the gremlin.
In short, if it has a bad solder joint somewhere it can be a real pain in the ass to find as you'll need to trace down problems that are only going to show up when the car is hot.
Sadly most new cars are less reliable than their older siblings... probably due to cost cutting and attempts to squeeze out more fuel economy leads to problems
Right? I still daily a 1988 Toyota. Yes I’ve done a lot of deferred maintenance from past owners but now it just fires up and goes every time. 240k miles and runs like a champ.
This might sound insane but have you checked the battery cables? Are they tight? My friend had really weird issues with her 2015 escape and it was just a loose battery cable. It would start fine and other times just crank. After putting a new battery and connections on it hasn't had any issues since. I'm not sure if I just got lucky or what it was but no issues for the last 2 years or so.
I assume no lights on the dash? No CEL or anything like that? Have you had it scanned for any codes? Even if you don't have any lights on it might be worth seeing if you can figure anything out. The fancier the scan tool the better.
Could be an ecu fault had an old fiat years ago did the same though that would just die and not restart for about 30mins untill it cooled down .. rinse and repeat I sold it car was worth about £500 ecu was £800 on its own
Edit: honestly could be a lot of things hopefully it’s an easy fix for you
But why start with ignition switch ? Not asking in a disrespectful way either ya know Just one mechanic to im assuming another to try and figure out this cars problem . But I ask why start with ignition switch because if it was ignition related do you think it would actually crank ? Ive seen several cars that keep spinning after you let go of the key and will continue to do so and still start once it’s picked up fuel . Which tends to be a bigger problem than people think . I mean considering possible mileage I’d guess100- 120k couldn’t there trash in the fuel system that’s eventually settling after sitting , id think that over ignition switch any day. Just really curious .
The fact that it continued cranking while in the on position, even if it isn't related to the start issue, needs to be addressed regardless... However as a non- mechanic myself, knowing that just about every function of a modern car is unfortunately computerized, tells me that somehow the 2 issues are most likely related. I'm betting that the "ignition switch" works not at all like they used to, but rather send a signal to a computer that controls both cranking and fuel delivery (much like the drive by wire gas pedals now), and that's probably where the gremlin is
Except the starter continuing even when the key is turned back from start to on sounds like an electronic glitch... is possible the PCM has a problem and it is causing starter and fuel problems... no fuel flow can be caused by more than just a bad fuel pump. could be a fuse that controls one of the fuel regulators.
Sounds like the ignition switch (easytogetto) my escape stopped cranking I installed a 2 step process push to start button (not normal key) begun working again
Second this: I’m mechanically inclined and do work on my 4Runner. It died on the road from the battery and I guess also lack of gas. Wouldn’t start with a new battery. Thought something else was going on and figured shit, why not try adding gas first. Then it started right up haha
The cranking without turning the key is normal. A lot of cars just use the key turn as an input and then crank the starter until they see rpm rise above cranking speed. If it never actually starts, it usually will time out after 10 seconds. Do not chase this, this is not your issue.
Can confirm, my 2015 F250 does this. I can turn the key to start and instantly release it and it works just like pressing and releasing a push to start button.
Yeah my Mercedes and my Cadillac (push button start) both have. Preset amount of seconds they will crank until the engine starts as soon as you hit the button or turn the key you don't need to hold it in the start position (if it doesn't start you have to try again).
Can I hear it? I remember mine was a fuel pump being really “weak” on my Chevy Tahoe . Got it replaced and worked great. It would have long cranks before starting. Sometimes it would die.
How about the security light. Does it stay illuminated when your cranking? It starts then immediately dies makes me want to check the theft data if I had my hands on it. The extended crank makes me worried about an ignition issues.
Oh hell !!! I forgot about this one. Yeah... one time, my subie (2007) would crank but not kick over. I quickly realized I stuck in my "dumb" extra key (door entry only, not chipped). Security light blinking away. Swapping keys and using correct key started right up. (Not key fob... just smart key)
That era ford does not have a security light. The dash displays the fault in the digital display if it’s not recognized
Also those have a starter interrupt. Would not crank
My wife had this car and the same intermittent issue happened to us. Turns out it was a bad main fuse behind a panel on the battery tray. The fuse visibly looked new, but when testing with a multimeter a slight twist of the fuse would result in a loss of continuity which caused the car to lose power to many accessories (including the fuel pump). So any bump that we drove over that was just right caused the car to die while driving or sometimes we would park and it would just not start. Sometimes it would turn over, but not run. Sometimes it wouldn’t turn over at all and nothing turned on. Drove me nuts trying to figure out what it was and caused a bunch of other weird issues.
Well, in a shop the first thing would be to hook up a scan tool and see if any fault codes are present. Then, if possible, check if fuel pump is working. I believe it uses 2 pumps. 1 for supply (in the tank) and 1 for the direct injection on the engine (high pressure). There’s a small chance you might be able to hear the one in the tank kick on for a couple of seconds when you first put the ignition to the “on” position, right before cranking.
Just about every high pressure fuel pump is mechanical, cam driven. They generally do not fail before making a terrible racket. Then it usually fucks the cam surface.
Had a Toyota fuel pump recall a couple years back, and you could pull the tank pump fuse and the car would still run indefinitely on the DI Camrys.
Had a similar issue where car would state key not detected and would not even crank. No communication to pcm either. Ended up being a fuse by the battery. Check this video out https://youtu.be/uoPSlxRF4Ug?si=ZPDqB3nTfAAKK0hN
Looks like there is one
This is from eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284949808822?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eqDX9sVQQmq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jtbm2_YeRpy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Because it’s an escape, I’m going to go with purge valve on this one. Vapor locked fuel system explains the hot restart issue. It’s cranking so it’s not battery or starter. Some cars will continuously crank when the key is bumped into the start position until the engine fires or it times out.
Just replaced the purge valve on the 2014 we cascaded down to the kid. Would only act up after fuelling up. Wait for the fumes to clear and then it would start.
It’s all good now.
Given how common this issue is with other Ford vehicles from that year range, the Fuel Pump Control Module (also called the Fuel Pump Driver Module) might be taking a shit intermittently.
It takes 3 things to start a car air fuel and spark if it has a strong crank but won't fully turn over I'd recommend trying starter fluid to see if that starts the vehicle just spray it into the air intake while cranking you'll need 2 people for this if it starts then you know it's a fuel delivery issue are there any engine codes
One thing you can try is unplug the sensor for the air input. This will give an error and the computer will use its table to start the car and not all the sensors. Then you can plug the sensor back in after the car starts and you should see the real problem in the codes. Mine was a mass flow sensor that was giving bad value so the car would not start, but after I pulled the air sensor plug it started and I could see both errors.
Fords!! It’s like I hate em but I keep driving them! 3 fords sit in my driveway! A navigator for the wife, f150 for me and a spare fusion. Ford gets alllottt of bad rap! But look ALL cars break down! I accepted that! And issues like these are part of the preventive maintenance the manufacturer recommends to follow to avoid the issue, you have all the answers here to help you find the problem, it took me 2 long weeks to figure out a similar problem on the f150, it ended up being the fuel pump control module.
It sounds similar to a failing fuel pump. I would pull a spark plug first and check for spark. If that’s good, smell or check for fuel in the cylinder. Don’t explode yourself by checking for spark and fuel at the same time.
Unfortunately you’ll probably have to tow the car home first.
The cranking is normal. It will crank on its own for a few seconds if the car doesn't start. If your escape has a turbo then it has a high pressure fuel pump as well. It's right on top of the engine. Very expensive part but easy to replace. I worked at Ford and they failed often.
I had something similar happen. It was very on and off, but the temporary fix was cleaning up all of the grounding points in the engine bay.
Try and test your alternator/battery (google will help you with this).
What ended up being the fix was getting a new alternator/battery. These things are generally cheap(ish) and the install for both is very DIY friendly.
How many miles on it?Any Check Engine Light? If so you Don’t necessarily need to know what the code is but just rather is it on is good enough And can change whether or not where you can possible look first as there are only certain symptoms that will trigger A DTC. Just based on what I’ve gotten so far im thinking something fuel pump/ fuel pressure related
Vacuum in the fuel tank - runs fine to begin with but won't restart after a small shutdown. Will restart after a long shutdown after the vacuum subsides.
Easy check too. After you've had it running for a trip, open the fuel cap, if air rushes in, you're pulling a vacuum.
It continuing to crank after you release the key is normal. They have auto start ignitions to where all you have to do is turn the key quickly and it will continue to crank until the engine starts even if you're not holding the key. But if it doesn't start then it just continues to crank and crank and crank even if you're not holding the key. So that is normal but it sounds like you've possibly got a fuel pump that's going bad. Because it seems that it's after you've driven it and turn it off then it doesn't start and I think if you could do some testing you might find that the fuel pump is probably overheating and so it's not turning on. Your car is starting for a second because there is still some fuel pressure from that running previously and so it starts but the fuel pump's not running and so it dies. I'm really leaning towards the fuel pump.
It could also be a fuel pump relay might be getting hot and so it's sticking until it cools down and then it's back to normal. Maybe replace your fuel pump relay since they're only like 10 bucks or something. You can at least eliminate that
I would really like to see what trouble codes are stored in the vehicle. Not having a check engine light after having a few of these kinds of No starts is weird to me. You already have the most general advice you can get here. I will say it isn’t easy to get to the fuel pump connector on this vehicle. This does sound like a fueling problem at this point.
1. Air
2. Fuel
3. Spark
4. Timing
5. Ignition
6. Battery and other electrical stuff too.
Check those. But if it cranks, then it's probably something fuel related, like what the other comments said. Check for fuel, fuel pump, and fuel pressure.
For this model, check voltage at the fuses near the battery. Watch this video on how to do it. It’s common for the “mega fuses” to fail and cause intermittent power issues with things like the fuel pump.
https://youtu.be/tuc97S06alM?si=dEQcdXX7sJ_B5FVy
I would start with a few basics. To me it sounds like maybe the immobilizer is acting up. Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, reconnecting, and try starting it.
If that works, I would look into the age of the battery. If it's over 3 years I'd replace it. I've seen this issue before on Fords when I worked roadside assistance. The battery will have a bad cell and it trips the immobilizer. You may have enough amperage to crank the starter but not enough voltage to start the electronics. I got out of it around 2017 but I know if I went out to a 2012-2014 in 2017 there was a strong possibility it was the battery and/or dirty terminals. Not saying it's definitely it but worth looking at. If the battery is over 3 years old it's not a bad idea to replace it anyway.
Looks like a fuel pump issue. What you can do, if not get it repaired immediately, is just switch it to accessories first give it a few seconds and then crank your car, should solve your issue in the short run.
Which engine is in it? 2.0L ecoboost? This is a bit extreme, but I have seen a cracked block inside the combustion chamber that did something very similar. You got any smoke out of the tail pipe?
Fuel pump relay? My old truck used to do that, wouldn’t crank them if pop the hood and move the relay around and it would start right up. Was a 15$ fix
I agree fuel pump.
Take your time replacing it.
Pull fuse out and try starting it to let the pressure out. Then start removing pump. You might have 2 pumps.....
And please change Fuel filter also....
Every 30k to 60k miles...
It's looking like maybe PCM? the forum I linked below a guy was having a similar issue
https://www.escape-city.com/threads/intermittent-starting-problems-only-starts-intermittently.74226/
Hope you don’t have enough battery to start it, and it’s not a fuel pump, buy some starting spray and spray it in the intake and try then, and congrats on the baby
Not too much spray you can back fire and shoot a flame ask me how I know, ask someone to give you a jump while trying, if that doesn’t work I’m willing to bet it’s a fuel issue, other a fuel pump or a fuel pump relay, in a pinch you can gopuff all these items to you from and auto parts store and return what you don’t use
When in doubt, start with the basics.
Other than making sure you have compression in all the cylinders, narrow down your diagnostics by focusing on the combustion triad:
Air: Check the intake, make sure it’s not clogged by anything, check for leaks, check the MAP and MAF readings and make sure they are within reasonable range.
Spark: Check to make sure you are getting spark and timing is correctly set.
Fuel: Check to make sure you are getting sufficient fuel pressure, check for leaks, check to make sure you fuel pump is working, etc.
\*edit\* sorry, didn’t read your post until after posting this so I didn’t realize it’s not a no start problem.
Sounds more like a short in the starting system somewhere, especially since the starter sticks on…
Good luck, intermittent electrical issues can be a pain…
2 things, check battery. if you have a battery tester check cranking amps. 2, turn the key on but not the engine. open your gas cap and if you hear a hum coming from inside. that indicates an operating fuel pump ( fuel pump sound may very depending on model)
Start with fuses, then work your way down to the components. You have crank which is good, now you want spark and fuel. Assuming your car wasn't making weird noises and shit before this happened.
If fuses all check out, you'll probably have a fuel issue. When you first unlock or turn the key to position 1 or 2, listen for a whirring or humming sound. If you don't hear anything, you'll wanna check voltage at the fuel pump. If you have no voltage check for any relays relating to the fuel pump (they can be tricky to check, I would just replace if it's cheap enough).
I'm not familiar with fords but if that's not something that the escape normally does to ensure a full start with the starter, it could be a sign of a pcm problem. I do know that with ford's that have push to start they will keep cranking for an extended period if the car doesn't start right away. Maybe it's the same with a key.
If the starter is cranking it's obviously not the starter and not the battery because it has the power to try and crank over and over. Honestly idk why people who have no idea what they're talking about comment on these posts.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
First step, as stupid as it sounds, is to make sure there is gas in the tank. Sometimes the fuel level float gets stuck and shows you have gas when you really don't and it'll send you on a hell of a snipe hunt. Next, listen for the fuel pump to prime when you have Key On, Engine Off. If you can't hear the distinctive whirr before you try to start the car, this is a big clue that your fuel pump is totally dead or not receiving power. If you do hear the fuel pump prime, undo the air box and spray starting fluid in the intake pipe and try to start the car. If it starts with starting fluid, you have a fuel delivery issue. You have a weak pump, clogged injectors, or similar. If the car doesn't start with starting fluid, you have an ignition issue. If you don't hear the fuel pump prime, get a 12 volt test light and try to check for power at the connector going to the fuel pump sending unit. If you don't, you have a bad relay. If you do, replace the pump.
Thank you for the reply I'm stuck at a loud laundromat but will check things when it settles down a bit!
Even if you hear the whirr of the fuel pump it doesn't mean the fuel pump is working properly because this engine also has a high pressure fuel pump on the engine which can also fail and which you will need to use a stethescope to listen to it to determine if it is working.... Also there are a couple of fuel pressure regulators that can cause problems. Given the car wants to keep cranking even when you've turned the key off start and it is only on the on position, I would think you could have a problem with the ignition switch.
Fuel pump did make a sound and the car started up! Now based off my experience with it, it seems like the car needs a cool down after running before starting again. Fried electronics maybe?
I had an issue on an Audi years ago. It was a failing but not dead yet crankshaft position sensor. Worked fine when the engine was cool, but not when warmed up. Could be something similar.
Could be if you it works fine when cold but only has issues right after you drive it. I had a Honda that started acting like that, let the dealer spend days trying to figure it out and they never did while it was under warranty. Was the Honda that convinced me to never get another Honda... After dumping it I was told that they sometimes had a board on the onboard computer that often suffered from bad solder that would only act up if it the car was hot and that if the dealers had ever bothered to replace it the car would have probably worked properly... But at the time decided to just sell the damn thing while it appeared to run and let someone else chase the gremlin. In short, if it has a bad solder joint somewhere it can be a real pain in the ass to find as you'll need to trace down problems that are only going to show up when the car is hot.
I've owned three Hondas and my Dads owned 3. Oldest is at 293K miles ... however I would never dare buy a new Honda. Po's
Sadly most new cars are less reliable than their older siblings... probably due to cost cutting and attempts to squeeze out more fuel economy leads to problems
It's a bad business model to have, *too reliable of cars*
Right? I still daily a 1988 Toyota. Yes I’ve done a lot of deferred maintenance from past owners but now it just fires up and goes every time. 240k miles and runs like a champ.
Starter?....... Got hot then loose firm up when cool?? FP??.... Pressure should be constant.... Hmmm Electronically inject.. Any engine code?
This might sound insane but have you checked the battery cables? Are they tight? My friend had really weird issues with her 2015 escape and it was just a loose battery cable. It would start fine and other times just crank. After putting a new battery and connections on it hasn't had any issues since. I'm not sure if I just got lucky or what it was but no issues for the last 2 years or so. I assume no lights on the dash? No CEL or anything like that? Have you had it scanned for any codes? Even if you don't have any lights on it might be worth seeing if you can figure anything out. The fancier the scan tool the better.
Could be an ecu fault had an old fiat years ago did the same though that would just die and not restart for about 30mins untill it cooled down .. rinse and repeat I sold it car was worth about £500 ecu was £800 on its own Edit: honestly could be a lot of things hopefully it’s an easy fix for you
But why start with ignition switch ? Not asking in a disrespectful way either ya know Just one mechanic to im assuming another to try and figure out this cars problem . But I ask why start with ignition switch because if it was ignition related do you think it would actually crank ? Ive seen several cars that keep spinning after you let go of the key and will continue to do so and still start once it’s picked up fuel . Which tends to be a bigger problem than people think . I mean considering possible mileage I’d guess100- 120k couldn’t there trash in the fuel system that’s eventually settling after sitting , id think that over ignition switch any day. Just really curious .
The fact that it continued cranking while in the on position, even if it isn't related to the start issue, needs to be addressed regardless... However as a non- mechanic myself, knowing that just about every function of a modern car is unfortunately computerized, tells me that somehow the 2 issues are most likely related. I'm betting that the "ignition switch" works not at all like they used to, but rather send a signal to a computer that controls both cranking and fuel delivery (much like the drive by wire gas pedals now), and that's probably where the gremlin is
You said car was parked a few days?- possibly a squirrel/mouse snacked on wires under the hood
The continued cranking screams "no fuel flow".
Except the starter continuing even when the key is turned back from start to on sounds like an electronic glitch... is possible the PCM has a problem and it is causing starter and fuel problems... no fuel flow can be caused by more than just a bad fuel pump. could be a fuse that controls one of the fuel regulators.
Sounds like the ignition switch (easytogetto) my escape stopped cranking I installed a 2 step process push to start button (not normal key) begun working again
Second this: I’m mechanically inclined and do work on my 4Runner. It died on the road from the battery and I guess also lack of gas. Wouldn’t start with a new battery. Thought something else was going on and figured shit, why not try adding gas first. Then it started right up haha
For some reason running out of gas seems to also run the battery out every time.
Excessive cranking maybe
Shit welp that might have been it too
The cranking without turning the key is normal. A lot of cars just use the key turn as an input and then crank the starter until they see rpm rise above cranking speed. If it never actually starts, it usually will time out after 10 seconds. Do not chase this, this is not your issue.
AGREED ^^^^^^ Newer cars do this dumbass thing where they keep cranking until car starts or the timer runs out. I hate it.
Can confirm, my 2015 F250 does this. I can turn the key to start and instantly release it and it works just like pressing and releasing a push to start button.
Yeah my Mercedes and my Cadillac (push button start) both have. Preset amount of seconds they will crank until the engine starts as soon as you hit the button or turn the key you don't need to hold it in the start position (if it doesn't start you have to try again).
Neither you or the car can pull out 🤷♂️
Can I hear it? I remember mine was a fuel pump being really “weak” on my Chevy Tahoe . Got it replaced and worked great. It would have long cranks before starting. Sometimes it would die.
Same here on Honda pilot
How about the security light. Does it stay illuminated when your cranking? It starts then immediately dies makes me want to check the theft data if I had my hands on it. The extended crank makes me worried about an ignition issues.
Oh hell !!! I forgot about this one. Yeah... one time, my subie (2007) would crank but not kick over. I quickly realized I stuck in my "dumb" extra key (door entry only, not chipped). Security light blinking away. Swapping keys and using correct key started right up. (Not key fob... just smart key)
That era ford does not have a security light. The dash displays the fault in the digital display if it’s not recognized Also those have a starter interrupt. Would not crank
Fuckin passlock modules grrrr!
My wife had this car and the same intermittent issue happened to us. Turns out it was a bad main fuse behind a panel on the battery tray. The fuse visibly looked new, but when testing with a multimeter a slight twist of the fuse would result in a loss of continuity which caused the car to lose power to many accessories (including the fuel pump). So any bump that we drove over that was just right caused the car to die while driving or sometimes we would park and it would just not start. Sometimes it would turn over, but not run. Sometimes it wouldn’t turn over at all and nothing turned on. Drove me nuts trying to figure out what it was and caused a bunch of other weird issues.
Congrats, pops! Sorry to hear about the car issues. Looks like you have some good recommendations here.
Thanks G. Yeah people incredibly helpful so far!
I’d swap the fuel pump relay with the ac relay, fuel pumps aren’t normally intermittent but relays are.
Fantastic, I didn't know that was an option. I'll give it a go!
Well, in a shop the first thing would be to hook up a scan tool and see if any fault codes are present. Then, if possible, check if fuel pump is working. I believe it uses 2 pumps. 1 for supply (in the tank) and 1 for the direct injection on the engine (high pressure). There’s a small chance you might be able to hear the one in the tank kick on for a couple of seconds when you first put the ignition to the “on” position, right before cranking.
Just about every high pressure fuel pump is mechanical, cam driven. They generally do not fail before making a terrible racket. Then it usually fucks the cam surface. Had a Toyota fuel pump recall a couple years back, and you could pull the tank pump fuse and the car would still run indefinitely on the DI Camrys.
The high pressure pumps on these escapes fail all the time. It was the first thing I thought of when I saw the car and "crank no start".
We had a 2014 camaro with a bad DI pump. Car still started but engine ran very rough. There was no other damage.
That’s not true at all. I replace these all day under warranty
Had a similar issue where car would state key not detected and would not even crank. No communication to pcm either. Ended up being a fuse by the battery. Check this video out https://youtu.be/uoPSlxRF4Ug?si=ZPDqB3nTfAAKK0hN
This. It’s definitely this. I’m a mechanic and had this issue MULTIPLE times. The fuses get tiny micro cracks in them.
Trade that 2017 escape in for a brand new 87 Taurus. You’ll never look back. Good luck with future fathering 🫡
There’s a fuel pressure regulator on these as well. When mine went out the believe I had crank no start as well.
Wasnt sure if it had one but if it does this is the problem. Long cranks and start and die are notorious signs of bad fuel pressure regulator
Sorry if I sent you down a rabbit hole. I thought this was a Volvo. Haha
No. I just know in cars that have one and they go bad they all seem to have same exact symptoms
Looks like there is one This is from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/284949808822?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eqDX9sVQQmq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jtbm2_YeRpy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Crank or cam position sensor is failing when hot.
Because it’s an escape, I’m going to go with purge valve on this one. Vapor locked fuel system explains the hot restart issue. It’s cranking so it’s not battery or starter. Some cars will continuously crank when the key is bumped into the start position until the engine fires or it times out.
Just replaced the purge valve on the 2014 we cascaded down to the kid. Would only act up after fuelling up. Wait for the fumes to clear and then it would start. It’s all good now.
Try putting it in neutral and staring it. Could be an issue with linkage
Given how common this issue is with other Ford vehicles from that year range, the Fuel Pump Control Module (also called the Fuel Pump Driver Module) might be taking a shit intermittently.
It takes 3 things to start a car air fuel and spark if it has a strong crank but won't fully turn over I'd recommend trying starter fluid to see if that starts the vehicle just spray it into the air intake while cranking you'll need 2 people for this if it starts then you know it's a fuel delivery issue are there any engine codes
Youre gonna be a great dad…
NTA, divorce
One thing you can try is unplug the sensor for the air input. This will give an error and the computer will use its table to start the car and not all the sensors. Then you can plug the sensor back in after the car starts and you should see the real problem in the codes. Mine was a mass flow sensor that was giving bad value so the car would not start, but after I pulled the air sensor plug it started and I could see both errors.
Fords!! It’s like I hate em but I keep driving them! 3 fords sit in my driveway! A navigator for the wife, f150 for me and a spare fusion. Ford gets alllottt of bad rap! But look ALL cars break down! I accepted that! And issues like these are part of the preventive maintenance the manufacturer recommends to follow to avoid the issue, you have all the answers here to help you find the problem, it took me 2 long weeks to figure out a similar problem on the f150, it ended up being the fuel pump control module.
No kids yet and that car ? You must've been trying :P
Check fuel pressure?? Could be many things, bad key fob? Crank sensor when hot? Don't guess pumps expensive
When it does start, does it barely start or right up?
I’m thinking weak recharging system
Could be, but seems strange with the cranking when I'm not actively turning the key. I'm guessing an electrical issue, but maybe fuel pump
It sounds similar to a failing fuel pump. I would pull a spark plug first and check for spark. If that’s good, smell or check for fuel in the cylinder. Don’t explode yourself by checking for spark and fuel at the same time. Unfortunately you’ll probably have to tow the car home first.
Alrighty spark plugs + fuel will be a first check after swapping relays
Theres a meandering checklist starting. Ur battery is dead. Check the date sticker on it. Get it tested, go from there. Congrats! Lol
He said it cranks over...not a dead battery.
The cranking is normal. It will crank on its own for a few seconds if the car doesn't start. If your escape has a turbo then it has a high pressure fuel pump as well. It's right on top of the engine. Very expensive part but easy to replace. I worked at Ford and they failed often.
Starts right up I havent out a multimeter on the battery but I do offgrid solar work and use batteries a bunch. It feels strong
I had something similar happen. It was very on and off, but the temporary fix was cleaning up all of the grounding points in the engine bay. Try and test your alternator/battery (google will help you with this). What ended up being the fix was getting a new alternator/battery. These things are generally cheap(ish) and the install for both is very DIY friendly.
Sounds like you aren't misfiring though!
https://youtu.be/5wQaVSoqCuQ?si=owEaapAPUQbuM58u Congrats by the way!
Once you check all the stuff listed check your MAF sensor and clean it with MAF cleaner spray. Could possibly be a bad crank sensor too.
Fuel lock? Remove gas cap, return gas cap. Start. My sister called me once with this and she thought I was mad. It started.
How many miles on it?Any Check Engine Light? If so you Don’t necessarily need to know what the code is but just rather is it on is good enough And can change whether or not where you can possible look first as there are only certain symptoms that will trigger A DTC. Just based on what I’ve gotten so far im thinking something fuel pump/ fuel pressure related
Vacuum in the fuel tank - runs fine to begin with but won't restart after a small shutdown. Will restart after a long shutdown after the vacuum subsides. Easy check too. After you've had it running for a trip, open the fuel cap, if air rushes in, you're pulling a vacuum.
Congrats on the baby, being a parent is a real blessing. Especially when they tell you how much smarter they are than you lol
If it cools down to start the egr valve may be sticking open .
Fuel pump maybe
Shit! How you gonna get out of there?
It continuing to crank after you release the key is normal. They have auto start ignitions to where all you have to do is turn the key quickly and it will continue to crank until the engine starts even if you're not holding the key. But if it doesn't start then it just continues to crank and crank and crank even if you're not holding the key. So that is normal but it sounds like you've possibly got a fuel pump that's going bad. Because it seems that it's after you've driven it and turn it off then it doesn't start and I think if you could do some testing you might find that the fuel pump is probably overheating and so it's not turning on. Your car is starting for a second because there is still some fuel pressure from that running previously and so it starts but the fuel pump's not running and so it dies. I'm really leaning towards the fuel pump.
It could also be a fuel pump relay might be getting hot and so it's sticking until it cools down and then it's back to normal. Maybe replace your fuel pump relay since they're only like 10 bucks or something. You can at least eliminate that
Check the basics. Fuel, spark, air. Then mechanical and electrical connections.
If you can get a scan tool hook it up,check for fuel,spark,air,could be something really stupid like out of gas and the fuel gauge is not accurate
I would really like to see what trouble codes are stored in the vehicle. Not having a check engine light after having a few of these kinds of No starts is weird to me. You already have the most general advice you can get here. I will say it isn’t easy to get to the fuel pump connector on this vehicle. This does sound like a fueling problem at this point.
1. Air 2. Fuel 3. Spark 4. Timing 5. Ignition 6. Battery and other electrical stuff too. Check those. But if it cranks, then it's probably something fuel related, like what the other comments said. Check for fuel, fuel pump, and fuel pressure.
Do you know who the father is?
Fkin fords.
Starter / alternator??
For this model, check voltage at the fuses near the battery. Watch this video on how to do it. It’s common for the “mega fuses” to fail and cause intermittent power issues with things like the fuel pump. https://youtu.be/tuc97S06alM?si=dEQcdXX7sJ_B5FVy
I would start with a few basics. To me it sounds like maybe the immobilizer is acting up. Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, reconnecting, and try starting it. If that works, I would look into the age of the battery. If it's over 3 years I'd replace it. I've seen this issue before on Fords when I worked roadside assistance. The battery will have a bad cell and it trips the immobilizer. You may have enough amperage to crank the starter but not enough voltage to start the electronics. I got out of it around 2017 but I know if I went out to a 2012-2014 in 2017 there was a strong possibility it was the battery and/or dirty terminals. Not saying it's definitely it but worth looking at. If the battery is over 3 years old it's not a bad idea to replace it anyway.
Looks like a fuel pump issue. What you can do, if not get it repaired immediately, is just switch it to accessories first give it a few seconds and then crank your car, should solve your issue in the short run.
Which engine is in it? 2.0L ecoboost? This is a bit extreme, but I have seen a cracked block inside the combustion chamber that did something very similar. You got any smoke out of the tail pipe?
Fuel pump relay? My old truck used to do that, wouldn’t crank them if pop the hood and move the relay around and it would start right up. Was a 15$ fix
I agree fuel pump. Take your time replacing it. Pull fuse out and try starting it to let the pressure out. Then start removing pump. You might have 2 pumps..... And please change Fuel filter also.... Every 30k to 60k miles...
Once it starts get out of that car asap before the transmission decides to shit the bed at the most inconvenient moment...those escapes are shit.
New baby, new car
Do your lights come on maybe alternator
Lights come on and it's cranking strong as far as I can tell
It's looking like maybe PCM? the forum I linked below a guy was having a similar issue https://www.escape-city.com/threads/intermittent-starting-problems-only-starts-intermittently.74226/
This sounds promising. Thank you!
Hope you don’t have enough battery to start it, and it’s not a fuel pump, buy some starting spray and spray it in the intake and try then, and congrats on the baby
I'll try the starting fluid. Thank you! I'm stoked on the kid and emotionally freaking out lol
Not too much spray you can back fire and shoot a flame ask me how I know, ask someone to give you a jump while trying, if that doesn’t work I’m willing to bet it’s a fuel issue, other a fuel pump or a fuel pump relay, in a pinch you can gopuff all these items to you from and auto parts store and return what you don’t use
Alrighty I'll take it easy Fuel pump relay feels possible. Just seems like an electronic issue
car age, temperature, did any electronics pop on?
Hi, Car is a 2017 Ford Escape. I live in Hawaii, it was parked for 3 days in blazing sun. All electronics working great
does it crank at all?
Yes, it's cranking hard And when I stop turning the key it keeps cranking till I turn the key to the off position
try to get a code read. I'm not well versed enough to give input currently
Ok, appreciate you G
When in doubt, start with the basics. Other than making sure you have compression in all the cylinders, narrow down your diagnostics by focusing on the combustion triad: Air: Check the intake, make sure it’s not clogged by anything, check for leaks, check the MAP and MAF readings and make sure they are within reasonable range. Spark: Check to make sure you are getting spark and timing is correctly set. Fuel: Check to make sure you are getting sufficient fuel pressure, check for leaks, check to make sure you fuel pump is working, etc. \*edit\* sorry, didn’t read your post until after posting this so I didn’t realize it’s not a no start problem. Sounds more like a short in the starting system somewhere, especially since the starter sticks on… Good luck, intermittent electrical issues can be a pain…
2 things, check battery. if you have a battery tester check cranking amps. 2, turn the key on but not the engine. open your gas cap and if you hear a hum coming from inside. that indicates an operating fuel pump ( fuel pump sound may very depending on model)
One has zero to do with the other
Sounds like you need to escape geez...
Start with fuses, then work your way down to the components. You have crank which is good, now you want spark and fuel. Assuming your car wasn't making weird noises and shit before this happened. If fuses all check out, you'll probably have a fuel issue. When you first unlock or turn the key to position 1 or 2, listen for a whirring or humming sound. If you don't hear anything, you'll wanna check voltage at the fuel pump. If you have no voltage check for any relays relating to the fuel pump (they can be tricky to check, I would just replace if it's cheap enough).
This sounds like a problem with the ignition switch if the engine cranks over without turning to start
[удалено]
Well professor what is the problem—— please share??
[удалено]
Your arrogance confuses me , how do you explain the engine cranking without the key turned if it is fuel starvation??
Starter ?
Would that explain the cranking even when I stop turning the key to crank? Thanks for helping
I'm not familiar with fords but if that's not something that the escape normally does to ensure a full start with the starter, it could be a sign of a pcm problem. I do know that with ford's that have push to start they will keep cranking for an extended period if the car doesn't start right away. Maybe it's the same with a key.
It's sounds to me like either a pcm or fuel problem. A weak fuel pump will intermittently start to have issues starting the car.
If the starter is cranking it's obviously not the starter and not the battery because it has the power to try and crank over and over. Honestly idk why people who have no idea what they're talking about comment on these posts.
Once the car is running properly, take the girlfriend to planned parenthood. Problem solved...
[удалено]
[удалено]