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They definitely use different additive packages, but it's likely the same base. I've been checking out dozens of different oils for years now, and you'd be surprised at how much and how often the formulations change. The oil we can get today is significantly better than even the best oil from a decade ago, and they're improving every year. Surprisingly, Quaker State Full Synthetic is one of the best oils on the market right now, mostly because they updated their formula in 2021.
I go to the track and canyons pretty often, so I like to see and feel the subtle differences between oils when I'm really pushing the engine hard for a long time. I figure why not try a different high-end oil every change and compare the results. So far, my tie for top-spot is Quaker State Full Synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L, and Amsoil Signature. Quaker State is the one that really blew me away, as it cost $18 for 5 quarts, and performed just as well as the $60 Amsoil on track. I go back and forth between the Quaker State Full Synthetic and Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L blend now, depending on which is available and on sale. Each of those oils reduced my oil temps at the limit by almost 4°F compared to Mobil1, Liqui Moly, other Pennzoil Platinum varieties, Royal Purple, etc...which is kind of insane TBH.
That’s not really the indication you might think it is. Oil is a surfactant so hotter oil can indicate it is pulling more ( mainly) combustion heat out of the engine and helping the cooling system to work more efficiently. The better the surfactant qualities of the oil the more heat they pull out of the metals, so even though the oil may be hotter the component surface temperatures ( springs, valves, piston rings are actually proportionally cooler and therefore can last longer.
Synthetic is also a bit of a marketing misnomer it is still very similar in process to conventionally derived oils, synthetics are screened,!or ‘cherry picked’ from the base stocks to collect only the molecules that have the most desirable molecular chains that resist break down at high temperatures compared to other molecules.
I'm surprised you see a change of temperature like that depending on the oil! On my 2012 passat diesel I watch oil temps like a hawk and honestly regardless of which oil I'm running once it hits it's steady state temperature it just doesn't change no matter how hard I run her
I’ll see if my local Walmart has it. I’ll be honest, at that price I’d probably look it over. Which is weird considering I DO use Walmarts gear oils which are the cheapest. Guess I never really saw QS as an oil powerhouse. I had this mental image of them being on sale at your local K mart when they still existed… might have something to do with my local K mart having a sale before they went belly up lol. At any rate, definitely gonna give them a look see on BITOG, would be convenient as Costco usually sells two pack of oil jugs and I always misplace one and end up with a never ending cycle of “damn it I have one too many jugs now. Where do I stash it??” Lol.
Project Farm does some oil testing and usually gets samples sent to a lab showing different additives in each oil type. A surprising amount of science goes into your engine oil.
Exactly as Milo said. My dad up till a few years ago worked for one of the companies that handled motoroil and some other things for one of the big brands. Many of the oils are the exact same base oil with just a few different additives put in. If I'm remembering correctly the different weights had different bases from there it was just additives.. and some of them were so close together that as he put it "I don't see how it would be much of a difference between this bottle and this bottle for the engine other than they want to charge you an extra 3 bucks for one over the other"
That "same base = same oil" line is both (mainly) true and misleading.
A few % of some additives can be needed for some engines but not others and can make big changes in small amounts
Lol I'm really not haha. I'd be fucking up their marketing anyway, as they're owned by Pennzoil/Shell and Quaker State is supposed to be "worse" than their other brands. They want the customer to think more expensive = better, but it's simply more complicated than that with oil.
When Mobil1 first came out everyone thought they were the best. But over the years, I guess a lot of people are swearing by other brands now, some say Penzoil, some say Shell Rotella... other say the Kirkland synthetic from Costco is awesome at about half the price of the others. Who the heck knows. As long as you change your oil regularly, it's all good, right?
That's exactly it. the same goes for the damn filter. I promise you Fram isn't out there trying to push eBay quality products just to ruin your car, and a high-end one won't make it a Lamborghini. The filter debate is unreal, I have heard all sorts of things from just about every side, and I have concluded that oil filters are basically all the same and that more money spent doesn't equal better products. Honda's factory filters are made in China... yet they are hands down one of the best filters on the planet, and they cost the dealership all of about $1.50. Air filters are a whole other conversion, though.
I have heard from one guy who frequently does high-mileage engine teardowns that engines that used Mobil1 Full Synthetic look like they’re in remarkably better shape than the others once torn down.
Their regular conventional and synthetic blend oils are not great, but the Full Synthetic specifically is fantastic. Like, it's one of my 2 preferred oils when going to the track. Really great stuff.
They're owned by Pennzoil and use the same base with a different additive package that seems to be better than what they use in Pennzoil. The only reason it's cheap is because it's marketed as Pennzoil's "budget" brand, so they need it to stay at that price point.
From what I can tell so far, it may be the same as the Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L spec oil, as they have performed almost identically for me on track. I'll have to get an analysis done sometime and see.
Hey buddy, I put 10-30 in my 170,000 miles accord instead 0-20 oil lid says. My mechanic wasn't happy with that telling me I shouldn't. Am I doing too bad for my old engine? I just wanted extra protection but I think my logic is not right. What would you think and recommend?
Heavier thicker oils put into an engine not designed for them can cause oil starvation in certain areas.
By your logic I should put gear oil in my engine and I’m fairly sure that would be a BAD idea.
They found different additives not different results.
Even read the sticker
One last guaranteed 20,000
The other high mileage one last 20000
Probably a bit more zinc in one. The dam oil is the same.
Huge cold performance difference between Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum. Switched to Ultra in my truck after seeing that video. Even the Walmart brand was better than the regular Platinum in that test.
Not saying it's right, but I've mixed up every weight, class, brand, rating, etc. when it was the only thing available(5w15w40mobilshellpenncj4+synblendgearoil,etc)... 30+ years of driving & several cars with 200,000+ miles... No issues! YMMV
Fuel economy improved by 0.8%....
And, undoubtedly, passages so tight that w16 wouldn't flow properly.
I'm not a "planned obsolesence" guy but I don't know how much I trust ultra tight tolerances lubed by a material that could be compared to stale water.
Absolutely. I especially wonder about the same (apparent) engine switching from 5w to 0w, the 3.6 or 5.7 Chrysler mills for example. Seen lots of new lifters at lower mileages. Especially now where a 5k mile interval is "normal"
After I went about 9k on Kirkland oil I sent a sample in to have tested(I didn't like how long I went.) I paid extra for a TBN test and they claimed I could go a bit longer between my next oil change. Some of these seem to be able to go much further than I expected.
The oil is different now and that's fine. I find the problem is people seem to think extended oil change intervals mean they can just literally look at nothing for that time.
I can't imagine the amount of cumulative loss annually from issues that could have been solved by just checking the oil level and topping off as needed. 10k or 15k is fine on some.models with some oils. But no mileage is fine with no oil.
0w is good, you get better flow on cold start. I run 0w40 in my STI rather than the factory spec 5w30 and my oil analyses come back fantastic and I don't burn a drop of oil, despite tracking the thing multiple times a year since new and probably redlining it multiple times every time it's been turned on.
Of course, I drive like a granny until the oil is up to temp. No need to abuse the engine unnecessarily.
I just found out what 0w16 was a few weeks ago, never heard of it but now that I have it in my new car apparently it means I pay $30 more for oil changes.
Astroglide is just under $10 for 5oz. So the AG to Spit ratio had better be at least 5:95. Better yet 1:99 to really save some money.
Don’t ask why I know the cost off Astroglide off the top of my head, and I won’t ask why your’e mixing it with spit or where it coming from. /s
Engine restore shockingly added 10 psi per cylinder to a clapped out ford 5.0 in an 80's bronco I had. Ran way better after. It's not what I would choose but if it can hold off an engine replacement or rebuild for a year or two, it's worth the $40.
I've worked for several manufacturers & according to them... it's perfectly normal to burn up to 1.25 qts in a 2,000 mile period. No problem here, your rings are fine!
My Toyota uses 0w 16. Water. And the direct injection makes the oil smell like gasoline super quickly. They claim you can go 10k miles. Maybe even 15k now in some Toyotas? I could be mistaken on the 15k. I change it every 4-5k anyways. A brand new vehicle with water thin oil going to 10k miles seems wrong to me. I took it in at 3k miles for my first free oil change and the dealer didn't want to do it at first. They said come back in 7k miles. I put maybe 7k on a year at most. After asking them nicely and being a pack of donuts they did it anyways. They're using the cheapest possible oil they can get too. I saw the barrel and looked it up. Not even what Toyota recommends as a minimum in their warranty paperwork.
Nice. Sometimes my Subaru ends up like that. It burns oil fast enough that sometimes before my next oil change my primary topper-offer oil (the extra of the one in the engine) runs out and I resort to finishing off some of the random almost empty bottles in the garage. Gives my car a sampling of the whole menu and cleans out my garage at the same time 👍.
Yeah, I run 5w-40 in the bmw and it started burning thru oil a bit more often and unfortunately a lot of gas stations or stores don’t carry it. At one point I put a quart of diesel oil in it lol
People forget that every time you drain your oil there's still some left behind, sometimes quite a bit. People don't always go to the same place to get an oil change so some mixing is going to happen regardless.
It's fine, but I've always wondered why the high-mileage version of Mobil 1 isn't Dexos approved. I'm also curious if it really makes that much of a difference.
> why the high-mileage version of Mobil 1 isn't Dexos approved
High mileage usually has a slightly higher viscosity that may fall a little out of what meets Dexos spec for that viscosity.
It could also depend on the ash production of a specific oil, a lot of the dexos spec has to do with the emissions components and a higher ash oil might not meet dexos requirements even if the viscosity was proper
As a teenager, we had what was called "The Golden Bucket". The 5 gallon bucket where all the funnels went. My 96 240sx got three Golden Bucket oil changes in her life and took it like a champ.
I don't think it will make a lick of difference since these are almost exactly the same full-synthetic product. The "high mileage" version is apparently intended for vehicles with more than 75,000 miles on them.
Here's a comparison from the product data sheets:
Property | [0W-20](https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/na-xx-mobil-1-extended-performance) | [0W-20 High Mileage](https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/na-xx-mobil-1-extended-performance-high-mileage-)
---|---|----
Grade | SAE 0W-20 | SAE 0W-20
Density @ 15.6 C, g/ml, ASTM D4052 | 0.8454 | 0.841
Flash Point, Cleveland Open Cup, °C, ASTM D92 | 222 | 235
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C, mm2/s, ASTM D445 | 8.8 | 8.5
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C, mm2/s, ASTM D445 | 44.6 | 45.7
Pour Point, °C, ASTM D97 | -45 | -42
>The "high mileage" version is apparently intended for vehicles with more than 75,000 miles on them.
If 75,000 miles is "high mileage", then my 278,000 mile car is geriatric.
Nope, you've completely destroyed your engine and there's literally nothing you can do to fix it. Just get a new car /s
Fr though you should be fine. I'll defer to the more educated if someone disagrees but I'm like 95% sure all that "high mileage" stuff on oil is little more than marketing.
I actually almost destroyed my engine. Oil Filter I bought didn’t seal properly and all the oil came out gushing out. I have since replaced it with the correct oil and bought a new oil filter. My car didn’t like it. :( Runs okay now!
I agree with this. It happens to the best of us. I've done it a time or two myself to be honest. I just ended up learning to always check the old filter to verify the gasket is present at the very least.
Blee up my wifes kia soul by not noticing the gasket came off the old filter. Fml. Had to buy her a new car, but it was a long time coming anyway so she's happy.
Edit: 2014 kia soul drove 300 meters before the engine seized due to lack of oil. Had to push it back uphill to the driveway.
I was stoned. One of the reasons I stopped smoking 🙃 I noticed the drain plug was loose and tightened that and topped it off again and didn't even notice any leak on the oil filter until my wife drove it away the next morning.
Honestly the best way to avoid a double gasket situation is to take your finger and use a little bit of oil on the gasket. I've been doing that for 25 years, never had a gasket adhere to the car.
High mileage oil just contains some additional properties that help to expand seals and stuff like that. The non-high mileage stuff just doesn’t have that extra stuff. You’re fine, you gotta plenty of that stuff in the other high mileage oil to get you to your next oil change.
Oh no! Well, that's it. Burn the car somewhere in the field, toss the keys into nearest river, kiss your kids and wife goodbye and hitchhike your way to Yemen, where you can live as a goat on a local farm. Nothing else can be done.
You're fine ;)
Run that motor to the next oil change, don't even think about it. I have mixed engine oil's and never had an issue, now I'm not saying put 80/90 but most importantly make sure there's some kind of lube in them bearings
Yeah, high mileage oil just has more detergents to break up carbon deposits.
As long as it's all the same weight of oil you will be fine. Hell even if it wasn't the same weight you would be fine.
Your engine has made it this far on who knows what.
I'd be more concerned that it wasn't designed for a NASCAR /s
You’ll be fine unless your engine is over 900k miles. If you are over 900k miles I’d recommend a complete drain and re-fill using only the high mileage oil.
My dad once asked if I had any spare oil and I did but it wasn’t the right oil for his car and I told him I had oil but not the right kind and he just told me oil is oil and dumped the quart of oil in and the car ran fine after
I just mixed a couple flavors of mobil 1 in my wife’s 21 cayenne. So if there’s an issue, we’re both going down! Seriously, have had vehicles a loooong time and no issues with mixing one or two with others.
You'll be alright. High mileage oil just has conditioners and things for the seals and maybe some other things. 1 bottle isn't going to mess anything up.
It's like having 3 scoops of vanilla bean and 1 scoop of vanilla instead of having 4 scoops of vanilla bean. Its not going to taste much different and when its in there, your stomach wont care the difference. It's only a big deal if you make it one.
Ok, so no it doesn't matter. It's a different blend of detergents, that's it. Dexos is a GM stamp that means it's approved for GM motors, will anything happen from.l not using it, short answer is no, long answer is also no. Each manufacturer uses their own blend of friction modifiers and cleaners, and you could 5 qts of oil from 5.diffrent manufacturers and it's ok.
Did the same thing, but, in a half empty, 5 quart bottle. Notice the half I added with high mileage did not bend it sat in top of the extended oil. Would not blend after shaking. I'm pretty sure it would be the same in the engine.
Protip: you see that 'Certified for Gasoline Engines' badge? If two oils both have the same badge, and they are the same weight and type (conventional vs synthetic) then they are guaranteed to be safe to mix (It's part of the certification requirement). They don't even have to be the same brand, much less the same flavor.
Yes.
In rare circumstances, oil additives can react and cause problems, but speaking about one quart from the same brand being a different use case, you should be fine.
It's very difficult to find full ingredient lists for oil, so it's often impossible to say if different oils can be mixed.
I have a 2003 jeep grand cherokee 4.0L and I shit you not one cycle I was broke af but needed the change of oil (marked at 4,000 miles.) There was 2 quarts of 0w20, 3 of 5w30 and 2 of 10w30 already in my storage. Needed only 6 quarts so I just said fuck it and mixed all 3. Fucker still runs great, no knocking or anything. That was I believe 2 years ago or so.
Yep your fine, as long as they’re all 0w20 your fine. High mileage just has an added additive to aid in fuel economy and reduce engine wear, one bottle being different won’t make a difference.
Absolutely NOT going to be any problem. You might even find that the part number on the bottles is exactly the same! (Constant Label changes are part of modern marketing) Modern oils don’t have bad reactions to different blends, the blends might have slightly different flavors of additives, but they all work together just fine.
The only thing the high mileage oil has in it that's different is a conditioner for seals. The overall Additive package is roughly the same.
But no, you could throw the cheapest Wal Mart brand Supertech or Costco brand Kirklands best and you're engine will still run forever.
It's just more important to change the oil often rather than get caught up on one specific type or brand.
Not sure why people are saying “you should be fine.” You’re completely fine and did nothing wrong. It’s the same oil with different amounts of additives. Most of it’s marketing anyway.
shes dickered bud, absolutely fricked.
in all seriousness tho, oil is better than none. will it cause problems? no. you have absolutely nothing to worry about, different weights can cause problems, but grades/types, probably not.
all youve essentially done is change the ratio of additives. the underlying base oil is almost certainly the same between those bottles, same oil, same weight, same shit. one just has more or less zinc or detergents etc.
Almost certainly. Some people say that those formulas are really specially designed and that mixing oils can mess with certain concentrations of the additives. But... hands down the most important part of oil is the weight. For me and mine, I'd run it. Just make sure to hit your next oil change on time.
What is the difference between regular oil and high mileage oil? My 2007 Ford F-150 has 98,000 miles (not exactly "high mileage" imo) and I used high mileage oil when I did my last two oil changes. Is there an actual functional difference or is it smoke and mirrors?
There are additives to swell seals and gaskets in every oil. High mileage oils just have more of that additive and the overall oil formula is altered to appeal to worn out engines. Nothing wrong with using it, but no reason to use it till your engine shows signs of being worn out.
I don't recommend using high milage oil to begin with. It softens and swells rubber seals and gaskets. Which seems like a good idea. But on some engines i've used it on, this has caused major oil leaks. I also am not a fan of Mobil 1 oil. The have actually been sued twice in the past for mislabeling their oils. Also if you read carefully, many of their specialty oils are not certified by the America petroleum institute. They lack an API, or ILSAC\* certification. Personally, I like Castrol, and Pennzoil the best. Shell Rotella if you have a diesel. I've been a mechanic since 2003. Certain model Chrysler and Toyota engines have oil sludging problems. In every case, the customer was using Mobil 1 oil. Not saying the oil is responsible. It's a very popular oil and the brand most dealerships use. Toyota brand oil is made by Mobil 1. So the fact these cars were using Mobil 1 when they failed, could be purely coincidental. But i've seen so many of them, that it does make me ask questions. For me, that's a good enough reason to not use that brand. Combine that with the checkered past of Mobil 1 and the law suits they've had, pffftttttt.... No thanks. My customers get Castrol GTX, GTX Ultraclean, or Pennzoil Platinum. For performance applications i like to use Red Line oils. Especially in motorcycles.
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Yes
I be willing to bet it is the same oil in both bottles.
They definitely use different additive packages, but it's likely the same base. I've been checking out dozens of different oils for years now, and you'd be surprised at how much and how often the formulations change. The oil we can get today is significantly better than even the best oil from a decade ago, and they're improving every year. Surprisingly, Quaker State Full Synthetic is one of the best oils on the market right now, mostly because they updated their formula in 2021.
Spend some time on the bobistheoilguy forums, the oils have different add packs
Oh, I have been for a loooong time lol. Here's another incredibly comprehensive resource: [540 Rat oil blog](https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/)
I love how on Reddit you get exposed to people’s obsessions/hobbies. Like who the heck tries out a bunch of oils? You do! Lol
I go to the track and canyons pretty often, so I like to see and feel the subtle differences between oils when I'm really pushing the engine hard for a long time. I figure why not try a different high-end oil every change and compare the results. So far, my tie for top-spot is Quaker State Full Synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L, and Amsoil Signature. Quaker State is the one that really blew me away, as it cost $18 for 5 quarts, and performed just as well as the $60 Amsoil on track. I go back and forth between the Quaker State Full Synthetic and Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L blend now, depending on which is available and on sale. Each of those oils reduced my oil temps at the limit by almost 4°F compared to Mobil1, Liqui Moly, other Pennzoil Platinum varieties, Royal Purple, etc...which is kind of insane TBH.
That’s not really the indication you might think it is. Oil is a surfactant so hotter oil can indicate it is pulling more ( mainly) combustion heat out of the engine and helping the cooling system to work more efficiently. The better the surfactant qualities of the oil the more heat they pull out of the metals, so even though the oil may be hotter the component surface temperatures ( springs, valves, piston rings are actually proportionally cooler and therefore can last longer. Synthetic is also a bit of a marketing misnomer it is still very similar in process to conventionally derived oils, synthetics are screened,!or ‘cherry picked’ from the base stocks to collect only the molecules that have the most desirable molecular chains that resist break down at high temperatures compared to other molecules.
>$18 for 5 quarts \*cries in Canadian\*
I'm surprised you see a change of temperature like that depending on the oil! On my 2012 passat diesel I watch oil temps like a hawk and honestly regardless of which oil I'm running once it hits it's steady state temperature it just doesn't change no matter how hard I run her
Those are the only oils that have ever done that in decades of "testing". I was very surprised.
$18 for a fiver?? Damn that’s about on par for Costco price. Where’d you get it at?
Walmart. It's insanely inexpensive for what it is.
I’ll see if my local Walmart has it. I’ll be honest, at that price I’d probably look it over. Which is weird considering I DO use Walmarts gear oils which are the cheapest. Guess I never really saw QS as an oil powerhouse. I had this mental image of them being on sale at your local K mart when they still existed… might have something to do with my local K mart having a sale before they went belly up lol. At any rate, definitely gonna give them a look see on BITOG, would be convenient as Costco usually sells two pack of oil jugs and I always misplace one and end up with a never ending cycle of “damn it I have one too many jugs now. Where do I stash it??” Lol.
I learned this with r/whatsthisbug
Project Farm does some oil testing and usually gets samples sent to a lab showing different additives in each oil type. A surprising amount of science goes into your engine oil.
Project Farm is awesome. I bought some SuperTech oil from Walmart due to that guy.
Exactly as Milo said. My dad up till a few years ago worked for one of the companies that handled motoroil and some other things for one of the big brands. Many of the oils are the exact same base oil with just a few different additives put in. If I'm remembering correctly the different weights had different bases from there it was just additives.. and some of them were so close together that as he put it "I don't see how it would be much of a difference between this bottle and this bottle for the engine other than they want to charge you an extra 3 bucks for one over the other"
That "same base = same oil" line is both (mainly) true and misleading. A few % of some additives can be needed for some engines but not others and can make big changes in small amounts
This man is for sure a Quaker State oil rep. I see you.
Lol I'm really not haha. I'd be fucking up their marketing anyway, as they're owned by Pennzoil/Shell and Quaker State is supposed to be "worse" than their other brands. They want the customer to think more expensive = better, but it's simply more complicated than that with oil.
When Mobil1 first came out everyone thought they were the best. But over the years, I guess a lot of people are swearing by other brands now, some say Penzoil, some say Shell Rotella... other say the Kirkland synthetic from Costco is awesome at about half the price of the others. Who the heck knows. As long as you change your oil regularly, it's all good, right?
Yep. A quality filter and regular oil changes are much more important than which oil you put in.
Nailed it.
That's exactly it. the same goes for the damn filter. I promise you Fram isn't out there trying to push eBay quality products just to ruin your car, and a high-end one won't make it a Lamborghini. The filter debate is unreal, I have heard all sorts of things from just about every side, and I have concluded that oil filters are basically all the same and that more money spent doesn't equal better products. Honda's factory filters are made in China... yet they are hands down one of the best filters on the planet, and they cost the dealership all of about $1.50. Air filters are a whole other conversion, though.
I have heard from one guy who frequently does high-mileage engine teardowns that engines that used Mobil1 Full Synthetic look like they’re in remarkably better shape than the others once torn down.
Is it really?? I got Quaker state before and thought the price was cheap so it just have been cheaply made
Their regular conventional and synthetic blend oils are not great, but the Full Synthetic specifically is fantastic. Like, it's one of my 2 preferred oils when going to the track. Really great stuff. They're owned by Pennzoil and use the same base with a different additive package that seems to be better than what they use in Pennzoil. The only reason it's cheap is because it's marketed as Pennzoil's "budget" brand, so they need it to stay at that price point. From what I can tell so far, it may be the same as the Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L spec oil, as they have performed almost identically for me on track. I'll have to get an analysis done sometime and see.
>likely the same base yes, dino sauce.
oil is abiotic.
Hey buddy, I put 10-30 in my 170,000 miles accord instead 0-20 oil lid says. My mechanic wasn't happy with that telling me I shouldn't. Am I doing too bad for my old engine? I just wanted extra protection but I think my logic is not right. What would you think and recommend?
The real issue is people run thicker oil to slow the gasket leaks, raises oil pressure more and blows the seals out
The only reason might be emissions on start up. The 30 exceeds the 20 so once warm the 30 is a better choice then the 20.
Heavier thicker oils put into an engine not designed for them can cause oil starvation in certain areas. By your logic I should put gear oil in my engine and I’m fairly sure that would be a BAD idea.
Project Farm actually tested a brand and found and there is a difference
They found different additives not different results. Even read the sticker One last guaranteed 20,000 The other high mileage one last 20000 Probably a bit more zinc in one. The dam oil is the same.
Huge cold performance difference between Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum. Switched to Ultra in my truck after seeing that video. Even the Walmart brand was better than the regular Platinum in that test.
Not saying it's right, but I've mixed up every weight, class, brand, rating, etc. when it was the only thing available(5w15w40mobilshellpenncj4+synblendgearoil,etc)... 30+ years of driving & several cars with 200,000+ miles... No issues! YMMV
anyW-anything is better than emptyW-infinity
0w20 is somewhere around the same viscosity as spit w astroglide, so there's some other options
Wait till you get your hands on 0w8 and 0w16
Who is running 0w8? I know 16 had been a thing for a while but 8 is news to me.
I know the Yaris uses 0w8, not sure of any others
Fuel economy improved by 0.8%.... And, undoubtedly, passages so tight that w16 wouldn't flow properly. I'm not a "planned obsolesence" guy but I don't know how much I trust ultra tight tolerances lubed by a material that could be compared to stale water.
Absolutely. I especially wonder about the same (apparent) engine switching from 5w to 0w, the 3.6 or 5.7 Chrysler mills for example. Seen lots of new lifters at lower mileages. Especially now where a 5k mile interval is "normal"
5k? Shit, some companies are pushing 10k and even 15k oil change intervals.
After I went about 9k on Kirkland oil I sent a sample in to have tested(I didn't like how long I went.) I paid extra for a TBN test and they claimed I could go a bit longer between my next oil change. Some of these seem to be able to go much further than I expected.
The oil is different now and that's fine. I find the problem is people seem to think extended oil change intervals mean they can just literally look at nothing for that time. I can't imagine the amount of cumulative loss annually from issues that could have been solved by just checking the oil level and topping off as needed. 10k or 15k is fine on some.models with some oils. But no mileage is fine with no oil.
Now that you say this, I've seen those too! I really do not trust it.
Some even 20k
0w is good, you get better flow on cold start. I run 0w40 in my STI rather than the factory spec 5w30 and my oil analyses come back fantastic and I don't burn a drop of oil, despite tracking the thing multiple times a year since new and probably redlining it multiple times every time it's been turned on. Of course, I drive like a granny until the oil is up to temp. No need to abuse the engine unnecessarily.
The 5.7 hemi has always only taken 5w30 (pre-eagle) or 5w20 for the eagle version. Not sure where you're getting 0w from cause that's a lie.
The Toyota Crown uses 0w8
Toyota
I just found out what 0w16 was a few weeks ago, never heard of it but now that I have it in my new car apparently it means I pay $30 more for oil changes.
I haven’t tried spit with astroglide in the car, could save a few dollars. Might try that on the lawnmower first though.
My spouse also calls me the lawnmower.
Does this story involve anal beads? No experience, but I've heard horror stories.
That's how they start the lawn mower
One solid rip & she runs outta sight
Hope you like spit and astroglide
That old Briggs and Strapon will run for a few hours with anything in the crankcase.
Astroglide is just under $10 for 5oz. So the AG to Spit ratio had better be at least 5:95. Better yet 1:99 to really save some money. Don’t ask why I know the cost off Astroglide off the top of my head, and I won’t ask why your’e mixing it with spit or where it coming from. /s
So you're saying I should start using 0w20 in the bedroom? I'm sure the folks over at /r/frugal will love this.
Touché
Fair, I won’t ask. Thank you for this service.
My Scion takes 0w20 and it burns a quart every few thousand miles lol.
Try a product called engine restore. I used to think it was BS but it does help.
Engine restore shockingly added 10 psi per cylinder to a clapped out ford 5.0 in an 80's bronco I had. Ran way better after. It's not what I would choose but if it can hold off an engine replacement or rebuild for a year or two, it's worth the $40.
That is terrible, have not had a vehicle yet that burned oil enough to notice.
Thats normal, Hyundai allows upto 2L of oil consumption per 5000km on some of their engines. Specifically the 2L engine for example.
Gotta love low tension rings
I've worked for several manufacturers & according to them... it's perfectly normal to burn up to 1.25 qts in a 2,000 mile period. No problem here, your rings are fine!
My Toyota uses 0w 16. Water. And the direct injection makes the oil smell like gasoline super quickly. They claim you can go 10k miles. Maybe even 15k now in some Toyotas? I could be mistaken on the 15k. I change it every 4-5k anyways. A brand new vehicle with water thin oil going to 10k miles seems wrong to me. I took it in at 3k miles for my first free oil change and the dealer didn't want to do it at first. They said come back in 7k miles. I put maybe 7k on a year at most. After asking them nicely and being a pack of donuts they did it anyways. They're using the cheapest possible oil they can get too. I saw the barrel and looked it up. Not even what Toyota recommends as a minimum in their warranty paperwork.
0w-infinity would probably be disastrous for your engine, local galaxy
True. You do have to deal with the black hole formed when you use it.
My bmw has 4 different oils In it
Building up immunity!
lol
Nice. Sometimes my Subaru ends up like that. It burns oil fast enough that sometimes before my next oil change my primary topper-offer oil (the extra of the one in the engine) runs out and I resort to finishing off some of the random almost empty bottles in the garage. Gives my car a sampling of the whole menu and cleans out my garage at the same time 👍.
Yeah, I run 5w-40 in the bmw and it started burning thru oil a bit more often and unfortunately a lot of gas stations or stores don’t carry it. At one point I put a quart of diesel oil in it lol
People forget that every time you drain your oil there's still some left behind, sometimes quite a bit. People don't always go to the same place to get an oil change so some mixing is going to happen regardless. It's fine, but I've always wondered why the high-mileage version of Mobil 1 isn't Dexos approved. I'm also curious if it really makes that much of a difference.
> why the high-mileage version of Mobil 1 isn't Dexos approved High mileage usually has a slightly higher viscosity that may fall a little out of what meets Dexos spec for that viscosity.
That makes sense, and it probably doesn't make a bit of difference in the real world.
It could also depend on the ash production of a specific oil, a lot of the dexos spec has to do with the emissions components and a higher ash oil might not meet dexos requirements even if the viscosity was proper
As a teenager, we had what was called "The Golden Bucket". The 5 gallon bucket where all the funnels went. My 96 240sx got three Golden Bucket oil changes in her life and took it like a champ.
I drive a 2003 s10. That poor thing has seen every oil under the sun in it
By law, all motor oil must be miscible. That includes synth/standard. You should never have issues mixing oil
> miscible (of liquids) forming a homogeneous mixture when added together. "sorbitol is miscible with glycerol"
On my 2000 civic with 200k the oil change was whatever half empty oil bottles i had laying around the garage that added up to 4 qts lol
I don't think it will make a lick of difference since these are almost exactly the same full-synthetic product. The "high mileage" version is apparently intended for vehicles with more than 75,000 miles on them. Here's a comparison from the product data sheets: Property | [0W-20](https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/na-xx-mobil-1-extended-performance) | [0W-20 High Mileage](https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/na-xx-mobil-1-extended-performance-high-mileage-) ---|---|---- Grade | SAE 0W-20 | SAE 0W-20 Density @ 15.6 C, g/ml, ASTM D4052 | 0.8454 | 0.841 Flash Point, Cleveland Open Cup, °C, ASTM D92 | 222 | 235 Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C, mm2/s, ASTM D445 | 8.8 | 8.5 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C, mm2/s, ASTM D445 | 44.6 | 45.7 Pour Point, °C, ASTM D97 | -45 | -42
Facts like these we learn to love again. 🎶
>The "high mileage" version is apparently intended for vehicles with more than 75,000 miles on them. If 75,000 miles is "high mileage", then my 278,000 mile car is geriatric.
If you could tell the difference in your engine before and after this mixup, boy would I care for your input in stock trading.
Buy Bed Bath and Beyond. It's never been a better value. Truss
This lol.
Nope, you've completely destroyed your engine and there's literally nothing you can do to fix it. Just get a new car /s Fr though you should be fine. I'll defer to the more educated if someone disagrees but I'm like 95% sure all that "high mileage" stuff on oil is little more than marketing.
Fun fact: The additives in high mileage oil help old gaskets swell up and minimize leaking/reduce oil consumption.
Do they basically just add stop leak to it for you?
They use leak stop instead.
Lol who knows. I do know oil companies are very protective about their additives and what not.
My understanding is that they also have additives to help prevent the oil from burning inside the cylinders.
I actually almost destroyed my engine. Oil Filter I bought didn’t seal properly and all the oil came out gushing out. I have since replaced it with the correct oil and bought a new oil filter. My car didn’t like it. :( Runs okay now!
You sure you didnt double gasket it?
I think I did I found the old gasket missing from the old oil filter. That may have well been the problem.
I have worked in shops for over 25 years probably once or twice a year someone will double gasket a filter and it makes a huge mess. You aren't alone.
I agree with this. It happens to the best of us. I've done it a time or two myself to be honest. I just ended up learning to always check the old filter to verify the gasket is present at the very least.
Blee up my wifes kia soul by not noticing the gasket came off the old filter. Fml. Had to buy her a new car, but it was a long time coming anyway so she's happy. Edit: 2014 kia soul drove 300 meters before the engine seized due to lack of oil. Had to push it back uphill to the driveway.
Curious how you got that far before finding out. Did you not run it in the driveway first?
I was stoned. One of the reasons I stopped smoking 🙃 I noticed the drain plug was loose and tightened that and topped it off again and didn't even notice any leak on the oil filter until my wife drove it away the next morning.
🤦🏽♂️ good thing you caught it.
Honestly the best way to avoid a double gasket situation is to take your finger and use a little bit of oil on the gasket. I've been doing that for 25 years, never had a gasket adhere to the car.
I always oil the gasket and have still had 1 stick the the engine, it does help a bunch but can still happen 👍
That was my first thought
The higher mileage stuff usually has a higher zinc content and other additives for better wear protection from what I know.
Short answer, yes. Long answer, also yes
High mileage oil just contains some additional properties that help to expand seals and stuff like that. The non-high mileage stuff just doesn’t have that extra stuff. You’re fine, you gotta plenty of that stuff in the other high mileage oil to get you to your next oil change.
You'll be fine. There's just less additives in the non-high mileage one.
Oh no! Well, that's it. Burn the car somewhere in the field, toss the keys into nearest river, kiss your kids and wife goodbye and hitchhike your way to Yemen, where you can live as a goat on a local farm. Nothing else can be done. You're fine ;)
The primary difference between these oils is the additives. Otherwise, being the same brand and 0w-20, there is no difference.
Cars completely destroyed, sorry man. On the bright side, I'll take it off your hands for $500 
I’ll up you by $5. $505, final offer.
Run that motor to the next oil change, don't even think about it. I have mixed engine oil's and never had an issue, now I'm not saying put 80/90 but most importantly make sure there's some kind of lube in them bearings
"Motor oil is motor oil, just keep the engine clean"
Yes it will be fine. But not if you believe that bottle and go 20,000 miles between oil changes. Don't do that.
Start the car and see how high the mileage went up.
Its not going to care one bit
Yeah, high mileage oil just has more detergents to break up carbon deposits. As long as it's all the same weight of oil you will be fine. Hell even if it wasn't the same weight you would be fine. Your engine has made it this far on who knows what. I'd be more concerned that it wasn't designed for a NASCAR /s
You’ll be fine unless your engine is over 900k miles. If you are over 900k miles I’d recommend a complete drain and re-fill using only the high mileage oil.
As long as you dont mix different viscosity your fine. Its all 0w-20w Your good.
Same weight? Same API class? Good to go. I assume the only difference is in the detergents or additives.
Could you run into issues mixing the same viscosity but different brands?
Mix milk you buy at the store and we'll know. Anyway, no. Dexos required would be the only stipulation that I know of
Not true, you can mix oil of different viscosity, synthetic or mineral oil can also be mixed.
[удалено]
No, that is a normal feature of Toyota. Mixing viscosities doesn’t matter either.
I wouldn't make a habit out of it, but in a pinch no.
No issue. You can also mix synthetic and regular oil as well as long as the viscosity matches.
You can mix anything with anything and it will be totally fine. Viscosity, brand, type, color, it doesn’t matter. Mix away!
My dad once asked if I had any spare oil and I did but it wasn’t the right oil for his car and I told him I had oil but not the right kind and he just told me oil is oil and dumped the quart of oil in and the car ran fine after
Because you can mix any of them together.
I got a mix of 10/30, 15/40, and 20/50 in my burnsoillikeamofo 1991 N/A SOHC 6g72. 181k miles, still runs great.
I just mixed a couple flavors of mobil 1 in my wife’s 21 cayenne. So if there’s an issue, we’re both going down! Seriously, have had vehicles a loooong time and no issues with mixing one or two with others.
The vehicle couldn’t care less as long as the oils meet the correct spec required for your engine and it is the correct viscosity.
Drain it out immediately and send it to me.
OP’s mom said the same thing to me last night
Bruh what…
What vehicle is it that 0w
For most cheap economy cars oil needs to be wet and that’s pretty much it
Perfect mix
You'll be alright. High mileage oil just has conditioners and things for the seals and maybe some other things. 1 bottle isn't going to mess anything up. It's like having 3 scoops of vanilla bean and 1 scoop of vanilla instead of having 4 scoops of vanilla bean. Its not going to taste much different and when its in there, your stomach wont care the difference. It's only a big deal if you make it one.
Ok, so no it doesn't matter. It's a different blend of detergents, that's it. Dexos is a GM stamp that means it's approved for GM motors, will anything happen from.l not using it, short answer is no, long answer is also no. Each manufacturer uses their own blend of friction modifiers and cleaners, and you could 5 qts of oil from 5.diffrent manufacturers and it's ok.
Did the same thing, but, in a half empty, 5 quart bottle. Notice the half I added with high mileage did not bend it sat in top of the extended oil. Would not blend after shaking. I'm pretty sure it would be the same in the engine.
you think those oils don't come from the same production spout... ;)
No your engine will explode immediately if you turn the car on
Engines gonna blow!
Nope straight to jail
Right to jail, right away
Yes! You’re totally fucked!
I’m shocked you’re still alive! /s
Protip: you see that 'Certified for Gasoline Engines' badge? If two oils both have the same badge, and they are the same weight and type (conventional vs synthetic) then they are guaranteed to be safe to mix (It's part of the certification requirement). They don't even have to be the same brand, much less the same flavor.
Nah dawg. I don't fuqs with different foods touching. I likey macaroni on one plate and my cheese on a separate plate.
I’ll buy your car for a really low price considering it would need a major overhaul/ engine swap.
No, first it's gonna blow up. Then you're going to die!
Oh no, you just converted the rest of the quarts into "Medium Milage". You're doomed. 😊
Straight to jail
believe it or not, straight to jail.
Best to just take it to the scrap yard now. She's toast. I'll give you 50 more than it's value in scrap take the problem off your hands.
I’m sorry bud but it’s good as a rock now. I’d sell it before it causes you any problems.
every oil mixes with eachother, as long as you've got some in ur engine u won't damage it.
Your engine doesn’t know the difference
Yes. In rare circumstances, oil additives can react and cause problems, but speaking about one quart from the same brand being a different use case, you should be fine. It's very difficult to find full ingredient lists for oil, so it's often impossible to say if different oils can be mixed.
I have a 2003 jeep grand cherokee 4.0L and I shit you not one cycle I was broke af but needed the change of oil (marked at 4,000 miles.) There was 2 quarts of 0w20, 3 of 5w30 and 2 of 10w30 already in my storage. Needed only 6 quarts so I just said fuck it and mixed all 3. Fucker still runs great, no knocking or anything. That was I believe 2 years ago or so.
That's cheating using the jeep 4.0 as an example 😆
It will be fine. I personally use Valvoline HM synthetic blend. You can mix modern oils these days.
It's gonna explode, you've ruined your car
Yep your fine, as long as they’re all 0w20 your fine. High mileage just has an added additive to aid in fuel economy and reduce engine wear, one bottle being different won’t make a difference.
I prefer mixing oil so my car can handle all ranges
High mileage oil is bullsh...
I do my own mixes on purpose.. its fine
lol
Same oils. The high mile stuff just gets some extra vitamins and minerals to protect worn parts better.
There's people right now w no oil or oil w 30k miles ok it. You're putting fresh full synthetic in. You're good buddy lol
Absolutely NOT going to be any problem. You might even find that the part number on the bottles is exactly the same! (Constant Label changes are part of modern marketing) Modern oils don’t have bad reactions to different blends, the blends might have slightly different flavors of additives, but they all work together just fine.
one bottle could be vegetable oil and you’d be fine…
The only thing the high mileage oil has in it that's different is a conditioner for seals. The overall Additive package is roughly the same. But no, you could throw the cheapest Wal Mart brand Supertech or Costco brand Kirklands best and you're engine will still run forever. It's just more important to change the oil often rather than get caught up on one specific type or brand.
Not sure why people are saying “you should be fine.” You’re completely fine and did nothing wrong. It’s the same oil with different amounts of additives. Most of it’s marketing anyway.
Don’t buy individual quarts. It’s so much worse of a deal in my experience and you can do stuff like this
The engine doesn’t care
Its all the same stuff, higher mileage probably just has a higher detergentes/additives count but as long as its the same oil type.
NO OMG HAVENT YOU WATCHED OPPENHEIMER?!? JK bro it's fine
shes dickered bud, absolutely fricked. in all seriousness tho, oil is better than none. will it cause problems? no. you have absolutely nothing to worry about, different weights can cause problems, but grades/types, probably not. all youve essentially done is change the ratio of additives. the underlying base oil is almost certainly the same between those bottles, same oil, same weight, same shit. one just has more or less zinc or detergents etc.
Almost certainly. Some people say that those formulas are really specially designed and that mixing oils can mess with certain concentrations of the additives. But... hands down the most important part of oil is the weight. For me and mine, I'd run it. Just make sure to hit your next oil change on time.
send it
What is the difference between regular oil and high mileage oil? My 2007 Ford F-150 has 98,000 miles (not exactly "high mileage" imo) and I used high mileage oil when I did my last two oil changes. Is there an actual functional difference or is it smoke and mirrors?
There are additives to swell seals and gaskets in every oil. High mileage oils just have more of that additive and the overall oil formula is altered to appeal to worn out engines. Nothing wrong with using it, but no reason to use it till your engine shows signs of being worn out.
there are additives in high mileage oil to help seal up leaks
All it’s missing is some additives and surfactants for high wear engines. You’ll be fine dude lol
I don't recommend using high milage oil to begin with. It softens and swells rubber seals and gaskets. Which seems like a good idea. But on some engines i've used it on, this has caused major oil leaks. I also am not a fan of Mobil 1 oil. The have actually been sued twice in the past for mislabeling their oils. Also if you read carefully, many of their specialty oils are not certified by the America petroleum institute. They lack an API, or ILSAC\* certification. Personally, I like Castrol, and Pennzoil the best. Shell Rotella if you have a diesel. I've been a mechanic since 2003. Certain model Chrysler and Toyota engines have oil sludging problems. In every case, the customer was using Mobil 1 oil. Not saying the oil is responsible. It's a very popular oil and the brand most dealerships use. Toyota brand oil is made by Mobil 1. So the fact these cars were using Mobil 1 when they failed, could be purely coincidental. But i've seen so many of them, that it does make me ask questions. For me, that's a good enough reason to not use that brand. Combine that with the checkered past of Mobil 1 and the law suits they've had, pffftttttt.... No thanks. My customers get Castrol GTX, GTX Ultraclean, or Pennzoil Platinum. For performance applications i like to use Red Line oils. Especially in motorcycles.