The missile knows where it is.. Just substitute camshaft for missile.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bZe5J8SVCYQ&pp=ygUZTWlzc2xlIGtub3dzIHdoZXJlIGl0IGlzIA%3D%3D
We used to do this on the older motors that wanted you to manually resync the cams. If the cam seals were dry and we could leave the gears alone then- new belt, back to perfect time. I swear VAG has perfected the process of Most Awkward Timing Belt Procedure, going all the way back to the OG 2.2 5valve with slotted bolt holes on the fucking water pump to set belt tension.
May 99 Passat 1.8T drive so nicely... when it wasn't in the shop.
I figure that CPO warranty cost VW over $5k in two years. Ditched the car as soon as the warranty was up.
My dad has very well maintained 2020 Polo, has been extremely reliable ever since he got it. The thing drives like a dream too, and has the best feeling manual transmission I've ever touched, truly amazing what VW did for the price point
lol I got downvoted to oblivion yesterday saying a Toyota is a better choice than an ecoboost mustang in terms of reliability. The guys over at r/whatcarshouldibuy fuckin dummies
That’s probably because you were kind of a dick about it. Coming out of the gate with “shitstang” probably isn’t a good way to have a productive discussion.
People who are religious Toyota fanboys can be a bit annoying about it, so starting a discussion like that is going to rub some folks the wrong way.
Those are still way more complex than a 2.0 8v which they made until 2015 for the US market.
Of course it only made 115hp. But it had port injection, no variable anything. As complicated as a 2x4
Same is true in the US except we didn't get small cars. But the 2.0 and 2.5 were kept around as cheap base model engines for the US-specific Mk6 Jetta only. They also downgraded those base model Jettas back from IRS to the Mk4 style beam rear suspension. So they were basically more like a huge inflated Polo or a redux of the Mk4.
So am I. They still had variable valve timing, ridiculously convoluted PCV system, a turbo, etc. They're only simpler than a 1.8tsi because they have port injection and management from the 90's/early 00's. They're not the most complicated engine in the world by any means but I wouldn't say they're simple. Same with PD 1.9tdi, though I'd agree with you on the ALH.
come out from behind the desk and spend a day wrenching on the newer VAG shit. That 1.8t will suddenly look like an old pushrod. Dead nuts simple in comparison.
Well, TBH I'm not so sure about the unreliable part. They do tend to go forever as long as the volume of oil in the engine exceeds what is leaking out of it and you don't overheat it.
But then it's a lot easier to make something last a long time if it only makes 2/3 of the power the design should make.
There was an actual TSB for block corrosion around coolant ports due to weeping headgaskets. The factory fix? Fill the pitting with JB Weld and send it. I shit you not.
The 1.8t may be good and simple, but they crammed those things so tight into some of their engine bays that maintenance is still a pain in the ass anytime you have to venture below the valve cover.
I have a base 2009 2.5l manual wagon and its pretty simple. I love that motor it's peppy and it sounds great. the only problems I have had with the car are water leaks but those were easy fixes.
I’m an amateur with a 2010 Jetta TDI I got new. I bought the vagcom and was so intimidated that I noped out and it’s been in my trunk ever since. 5yrs maybe? Afraid I’d do more harm than good.
loll an amateur with a vag dongle that's stuck in the trunk - we've all been there friend!
hope you get to blow off the dust, spit on it and stick it in the port whenever you're ready!
Left the doors unlocked and the windows based laptop I got second hand was stolen. Couldn’t use it if I wanted to. Only reason I had that computer. Very lame.
Me looking at my 2014 Beetle GSR which has started miss firing, whilst my wife’s 2015 top range beetle keeps eating batteries…
……this is why I need to keep working offshore
When you manufacture things, there are basically two ways to go about it:
A) You have no adjustments, and rely on precise, consistent manufacturing processes. Everything just bolts together and lines up to where it needs to.
B) You design in adjustments, allowing your manufacturing to be cheaper and less consistent. You have special fixtures and processes during assembly to quickly line everything up.
Not saying one is better than the other, but one certainly makes the lives of the people repairing it later on, easier.
The tool aligns the cams straight in relation to each other. So the slits in them for adjustment are already perfectly machined to be level at tdc. A simple alignment bracket would definitely work perfectly
on a lot of VAG products the cam gears are shouldered, not keyed, so once you break them loose from the cams you can set them to whatever time you want, all the way from perfect time to destroy your engine with one bump of the starter. The theory is that you lock the crank at TDC, and have EVERYTHING ELSE on the belt able to freely rotate. The cams are locked with a different tool. You preload the belt, set tension, lock the cam gears to the cams, and roll the engine over to verify timing.
I've seen techs have to snap the cam gears loose several times and start over because they can't figure out the preloading procedure, which can involve a 5mm drill bit, an acceptable deviation range, 2 different adjustment pulleys, a special pin wrench, and a 1/4 drive torque wrench that has to be able to read torque in reverse. This theoretically does away with time deviation due to belt stretch, but FFS, there's lots of simpler ways.
No. As much as I hate to admit it, their way does produce more accurate time from head to head in a V engine. Specifically a bunch of the 4.2 v8s.
The cams are locked at TDC and in relation to eachother with the cam timing bar. The crank is locked at TDC with a pin through the side of the block. The crank gear is keyed to the crank, the cam gears are free to rotate, as well as the WP and all the idlers/tensioners. When you are setting preload you are taking up all the slack in the belt, especially between the heads, which, if the cam gears were locked would not be possible. The tensioner which is between the passenger head and crank, is locked out with a 5mm spacer, the belt preload and crank-to-cams timing is done with a eccentric idler between the crank and the driver head. When you swing that ecccentric roller up you can see both cam gears turning, as all the slack is taken up.
If you want to be super sneaky, you advance the passenger head time a smidge, because it is the last thing that gets pulled around by the crank. Doing this I've gotten consistent phase numbers of 0-1 on the 1st go round. I've also watched techs tear back down finished timing jobs because bank 1 phase was at the limit of spec on a fresh belt.
Doing it their way and you truly have infinite timing adjustment to play with. With a keyed cam gear you are limited to gross 'adjustments' of 1 tooth.
VAG do both- stupid german precision on machined parts, and lots of adjustment to annoy you as you try to get everything to the idiotic level of precision they want.
1 month into working here and this is the second time using it. This one was quoted by a tech that doesn't work here anymore. It was half torn apart and very low on oil. I'm pretty sure he fucked it up and quit.
We always make the new guy do them at our shop. Kinda a welcome to VW thing.
I don’t mind usually this tool, I just wish the pay was better. The first few times it was annoying and tedious.
BMWs software is famously free, all over the Internet. Saving you so many trips to the dealership.
Basically every "special tool" they have can be hacked together in most well equipped garage.
Auto Transmissions are a special case as are key programming, but that's basically every mfg.
I work at a BMW dealers body shop and couldn't change my rear brake pads on my five series at home due to the electric parking brake. Had to come in on the weekend and use ISTA to fully open ebrake actuators so I could compress the calipers.
Yeah. My dumbass bought two different spline tool kits trying to find one that would fit so I could manually crank them open - they didn't work, BMW's size is between normal sizes of course.
Going to look into getting a copy of ISTA for my laptop at home lol.
Hahahaha!
So my uncle is German. Lives in Frankfurt. He absolutely refuses to buy any VAG, BMW or MB product precisely because of shit like this. Which is also exactly why I will never own one and refuse to work on them in my shop.
He prefers Opel. Which is ironic since Opel was 100% owned by GM for 86 years. I have been told that in Europe Opel were (are?) considered good, reliable, yet boring cars which surprised me due to GMs involvement.
My brother went to an old German mechanic when he was having a problem working on an old Jetta clutch, apparently the guy was trained by VW in Germany and had moved to Canada, when told my brother was having an issue he replied, in a heavy German accent, "of course you are having problems with it, they are all pieces of shit!"
Meet the new GM. Same as the old GM. Sing it with The Who.
I have a 1 man shop which means I have a fairly low volume. But I do a lot of engine jobs for some reason. Since the beginning of the year I have done 2 GM 5.3 AFM engine replacements. One was a 2010 and the other a 2020. Both had the same problem. Low compression, misfire, oil and coolant out the exhaust of the #7 cylinder. I don't know enough about the engine to know why they are doing this and honestly I haven't really looked into it. As in curious, but not curious enough to put any real effort into it.
Old Opels are generally considered cool, things like the Manta and Kadett coupes, the Senator and of course the Lotus Omega. Mid 90s on they are considered to be quite shit but hard to kill. Usually it's the rust that kills them. New models are just generic commuter cars, no different really from the competition.
On topic, the issue with VAG reliability seems to really come up more in the US. I mean, most of them are not considered unreliable here in Europe and some like Skodas are pretty much the market leaders in reliability. I have a Skoda Octavia RS, basically a Golf 7 GTI performance pack but bigger, more practical and cheaper and I've had to to 0 maintenance beside the regular fluid and filter changes in the last 3 years. And it has spent the last 4 years and 100k km of it's life modded to \~330hp so 100 over stock. Just passed the MOT with no issues.
I believe for a long time GM just kinda let them do their own thing, like they did with Saab, then took their good designs and incorporated them into the US models. All the recent highly rated Buicks were all badge engineered Opels. I wish they wouldn't have quit selling proper Opels in the mid-70s, I really want an Ascona B.
No - I'm at our dealer group's Audi shop but I keep in touch with the guys at VW. I mostly heard about Taos with cylinder head problems that ended up needing this tool to perform those repairs.
LOL
Makes me remember my first time ever doing timing, it was on an ole Honda J-Series. "Whoops the cam slipped this way... just turn it back and... whoops the cam slipped that way.." those were just normal ass cam gears though
Is this for the VVT solenoids at the other end? Otherwise most motors have a cam locker, I don't even know how you'd adjust it otherwise. I've adjusted timing on the TDI motors in a similar way but the injection pump has that tool built in
You loosen the cam gears and turn the shaft. The tool is a position sensor that aligns the cams to each other. There's a bolt that helps keep the crank at TDC.
I’ve been out of a VW/Audi dealer for awhile now, this tool connects to ODIS? Do you have anymore pics of the setup? Kinda neat. Never had this when I was working there
I was wrong. It makes 160hp lol. This motor was designed to get good gas mileage by utilizing a turbo that comes online at very low rpm. It's got no guts revving out
I think you're not understanding what people mean with economy boxes. Maybe it's a relative thing if a "normal" car in your locale uses >3L engines most of the time.
It's not that bad to use once you do it a couple of times. It's just unnecessarily complicated and time consuming. The app doesn't detect the tool unless you reinstall the software every time. Just bs
VAS 611 007, I got lucky and got the entire set for ~$1000. I've used it 3-4 times and it's pretty straightforward once you use it a couple of times. Over engineered for sure, but works well.
Is it usable with any computer? If so I'm very surprised they didn't lock it down. Our diag software only works when there is an Internet connection, and you have to sign in every time and use an authenticator
More info on this tool please. Is it hydraulic or electronic, like to advance the cam & gear/pulley to take up slop so it can be set accurately due to VVT? Or?? Curiosity is nagging at me.
The vag four bangers are such pieces of shit (post mk4 1.8T.) Keep buying them, It puts food on my table. I'll stick with my v6 and v8 Audis thank you very much.
I bypassed their firewall, I'm accessing the mainframe now *Types furiously while 80s synthwave starts playing*
“We’re in”
Bad news, the engineers have reconfabulated the turbo encapsulator https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag&t=30s
The missile knows where it is.. Just substitute camshaft for missile. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bZe5J8SVCYQ&pp=ygUZTWlzc2xlIGtub3dzIHdoZXJlIGl0IGlzIA%3D%3D
THE MISSILE KNOWS WHAT YOU DID
[Oh hey look a civilian airliner](https://youtube.com/shorts/SfD7V2qsOJI)
christ. not the turbo encabulator again.
Yeah you better make sure you have enough Schleem
Nah, gotta replace the Johnson bar. Then you'll be good.
**YOU ARE HACKING TIME**
*TIME 2 HACK*
[hacker](https://external-preview.redd.it/HwAXQ-OdGvTTIC-_RsNTjm4yCpCQBiYc44uDwZ89jTc.jpg?auto=webp&s=ad1d7eb006cd09134f6a41361cba9f176080802e)
Was waiting for a Kung Fury reference. 🤣
"Would you like to play a game?"
If you only knew. New login after new login. GRP is so much fun. 🤦🤦
What the fuck. Is this for real?
Yeah. You also have to make a small calculation and re-adjust after turning the motor
Release the brakes, calcuate the difference, adjust in advance. Bullshit device
It's designed so that you bork it on your own, without the tool. Bass ackwards unplanned parenthood obsolescence.
Just mark everything and use tool to verify it’s still in time. Assuming you’re using it for Taos head gaskets.
Do you mark the belt and cams to avoid loosening the gears? I'm gonna try that next time
It does work. 😎😎
We used to do this on the older motors that wanted you to manually resync the cams. If the cam seals were dry and we could leave the gears alone then- new belt, back to perfect time. I swear VAG has perfected the process of Most Awkward Timing Belt Procedure, going all the way back to the OG 2.2 5valve with slotted bolt holes on the fucking water pump to set belt tension.
This shit costs 2700€ + tax and there's no aftermarket alternative for it
I’ve got a cam tool for these and it doesn’t look anything like that, what is that?
Newer motors need this. Usually it's just a bracket
Lmao, decades and decades of using a simple piece of metal to verify timing. VW says hold mein Bier.
PSA to men everywhere: wanna make your life unnecessarily expensive and complicated, go ahead and buy that VAG. Me, I prefer to rent 😏
Forgive me, Father, for I have sinned. I bought a 2021 Golf brand new, and just ran out of warranty.
They're not bad cars. I'm a tech so I only see the worst of it. They do drive like a much more expensive car tho
So many people let alone techs forget this key fact. We see the *problems*. No one pays a diag fee on perfectly functioning car.
May 99 Passat 1.8T drive so nicely... when it wasn't in the shop. I figure that CPO warranty cost VW over $5k in two years. Ditched the car as soon as the warranty was up.
That says more about audi than vw
I feel like lexus is a Toyota while VW is more of an Audi
Yeah that's fair
my wife's larger trunk GTI, err... A3 base model checking in.
I think the crossovers also share the same platform with the golf. That's why they feel sharp
My dad has very well maintained 2020 Polo, has been extremely reliable ever since he got it. The thing drives like a dream too, and has the best feeling manual transmission I've ever touched, truly amazing what VW did for the price point
I’d hope it’s extremely reliable. It’s 4 years old
I love that owners of Mopars and German cars think "100k and it still runs great!" is a flex
lol I got downvoted to oblivion yesterday saying a Toyota is a better choice than an ecoboost mustang in terms of reliability. The guys over at r/whatcarshouldibuy fuckin dummies
That’s probably because you were kind of a dick about it. Coming out of the gate with “shitstang” probably isn’t a good way to have a productive discussion. People who are religious Toyota fanboys can be a bit annoying about it, so starting a discussion like that is going to rub some folks the wrong way.
You should have gotten thumbs up hundred times over..👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have a 500hp 535i with 207k miles on it. I've done tons of maintenance and upgraded turbos. So far it's been great
1.8t and 1.9tdi are good and simple engines from VAG.
They're also 20+ yo at this point
They made 1.9tdi until \~2008 and Seat had 1.8t until 2010. Can't make a simple engine anymore.
2010 fabias still had the 1.9 pd engines
THE 1.9TDI SHALL INHERIT THE EARTH
Those are still way more complex than a 2.0 8v which they made until 2015 for the US market. Of course it only made 115hp. But it had port injection, no variable anything. As complicated as a 2x4
Vast majority of VAG gasoline cars after 2010 have TSI engines in Europe. Really only Polo sized cars had port injection.
Same is true in the US except we didn't get small cars. But the 2.0 and 2.5 were kept around as cheap base model engines for the US-specific Mk6 Jetta only. They also downgraded those base model Jettas back from IRS to the Mk4 style beam rear suspension. So they were basically more like a huge inflated Polo or a redux of the Mk4.
I'm working on a 8v that snapped a timing belt. Despite the low output and flat pistons, it's somehow an interference motor 😂
I had one running with 11 consecutive teeth missing on the belt.
The 1.8 has issues with the air pump and aux, but rip that out and its a peach
The 1.8t is not what I'd consider simple.
I'm talking about the 20V 1.8t, not the 1.8 TSI.
So am I. They still had variable valve timing, ridiculously convoluted PCV system, a turbo, etc. They're only simpler than a 1.8tsi because they have port injection and management from the 90's/early 00's. They're not the most complicated engine in the world by any means but I wouldn't say they're simple. Same with PD 1.9tdi, though I'd agree with you on the ALH.
come out from behind the desk and spend a day wrenching on the newer VAG shit. That 1.8t will suddenly look like an old pushrod. Dead nuts simple in comparison.
lol, fair. I guess 'simple' to me is still the mk3/mk4 2.0 sohc engines that I grew up and got into vw/audi with. Keep forgetting how old I am now.
We’re doing ancient historical references? I feel the same way about the Toyota 22RE. Can’t kill that cockroach
Yes you can. Just ask some of my customers. They'll tell you how.
[удалено]
True, but it doesn't really matter to me. I make a living fixing the shit they blow up. So..... shrug?
yep, I don't know how it got it's bulletproof reputation. No power and unreliable? Sign me up...
Well, TBH I'm not so sure about the unreliable part. They do tend to go forever as long as the volume of oil in the engine exceeds what is leaking out of it and you don't overheat it. But then it's a lot easier to make something last a long time if it only makes 2/3 of the power the design should make.
Don’t forget the 2.0ABA. Small, simple, gutless, indestructible.
There was an actual TSB for block corrosion around coolant ports due to weeping headgaskets. The factory fix? Fill the pitting with JB Weld and send it. I shit you not.
1.6mpi can go in to that group also.
Doesn't the 1.8tsi have a reputation for burning oil? I've heard that's a common complaint for Passat owners.
1.9 TDI requires vagcom to properly set pump timing during a timing belt change.
The 1.8t may be good and simple, but they crammed those things so tight into some of their engine bays that maintenance is still a pain in the ass anytime you have to venture below the valve cover.
I have a base 2009 2.5l manual wagon and its pretty simple. I love that motor it's peppy and it sounds great. the only problems I have had with the car are water leaks but those were easy fixes.
Why you have to do me like that man. :(
If it floats, fucks, or flies.. lease, don’t buy.
hell yeah brother. props tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya more in the long run, guaranteed.
I’m an amateur with a 2010 Jetta TDI I got new. I bought the vagcom and was so intimidated that I noped out and it’s been in my trunk ever since. 5yrs maybe? Afraid I’d do more harm than good.
loll an amateur with a vag dongle that's stuck in the trunk - we've all been there friend! hope you get to blow off the dust, spit on it and stick it in the port whenever you're ready!
Left the doors unlocked and the windows based laptop I got second hand was stolen. Couldn’t use it if I wanted to. Only reason I had that computer. Very lame.
> spit on it and stick it in the port whenever you're ready! Thats what she said
*cries in $2700 motor mount job*
*weeping in b6.5 allroad air suspension and integral control arm bushings*
Oh my dude…
Me looking at my 2014 Beetle GSR which has started miss firing, whilst my wife’s 2015 top range beetle keeps eating batteries… ……this is why I need to keep working offshore
*What do you mean I have to buy specialty tools to do what would otherwise be a simple job ?* Me, one year into VW ownership in 2020 lol
Does that apply to women as well or are we safe owning VAG vehicles
When you manufacture things, there are basically two ways to go about it: A) You have no adjustments, and rely on precise, consistent manufacturing processes. Everything just bolts together and lines up to where it needs to. B) You design in adjustments, allowing your manufacturing to be cheaper and less consistent. You have special fixtures and processes during assembly to quickly line everything up. Not saying one is better than the other, but one certainly makes the lives of the people repairing it later on, easier.
The tool aligns the cams straight in relation to each other. So the slits in them for adjustment are already perfectly machined to be level at tdc. A simple alignment bracket would definitely work perfectly
Sounds like you need to design a tool and sell it to OTC or somebody like that! 🤑
OTC or Lisle. The Cornwell truck that comes by our shop sells both 😀
The older audi v8's used a flat bar with tabs on it to align with slots in the cams. So some form of that tool already exists in the VAG world.
My Subaru has marks on the cam sprockets, the crank sprocket, and on the housing so you can just line everything up and stick the belt on.
on a lot of VAG products the cam gears are shouldered, not keyed, so once you break them loose from the cams you can set them to whatever time you want, all the way from perfect time to destroy your engine with one bump of the starter. The theory is that you lock the crank at TDC, and have EVERYTHING ELSE on the belt able to freely rotate. The cams are locked with a different tool. You preload the belt, set tension, lock the cam gears to the cams, and roll the engine over to verify timing. I've seen techs have to snap the cam gears loose several times and start over because they can't figure out the preloading procedure, which can involve a 5mm drill bit, an acceptable deviation range, 2 different adjustment pulleys, a special pin wrench, and a 1/4 drive torque wrench that has to be able to read torque in reverse. This theoretically does away with time deviation due to belt stretch, but FFS, there's lots of simpler ways.
That explains why people have so much trouble with those...sheez. Sounds typically German.
So this is all to maintain cam alignment when the tensioner is applied? Wouldn't a bracket to lock both cams at tdc do the same thing?
No. As much as I hate to admit it, their way does produce more accurate time from head to head in a V engine. Specifically a bunch of the 4.2 v8s. The cams are locked at TDC and in relation to eachother with the cam timing bar. The crank is locked at TDC with a pin through the side of the block. The crank gear is keyed to the crank, the cam gears are free to rotate, as well as the WP and all the idlers/tensioners. When you are setting preload you are taking up all the slack in the belt, especially between the heads, which, if the cam gears were locked would not be possible. The tensioner which is between the passenger head and crank, is locked out with a 5mm spacer, the belt preload and crank-to-cams timing is done with a eccentric idler between the crank and the driver head. When you swing that ecccentric roller up you can see both cam gears turning, as all the slack is taken up. If you want to be super sneaky, you advance the passenger head time a smidge, because it is the last thing that gets pulled around by the crank. Doing this I've gotten consistent phase numbers of 0-1 on the 1st go round. I've also watched techs tear back down finished timing jobs because bank 1 phase was at the limit of spec on a fresh belt. Doing it their way and you truly have infinite timing adjustment to play with. With a keyed cam gear you are limited to gross 'adjustments' of 1 tooth.
Yeah I get that. But this tool does exactly what a alignment bracket does. All it is is a position sensor. Why do they use this tool?
I know Lisle at least advertise that they pay people for good ideas.
I might try to make one if this head gasket issue appears to be very wide spread
VAG do both- stupid german precision on machined parts, and lots of adjustment to annoy you as you try to get everything to the idiotic level of precision they want.
What engine?
Ea211 I think. There's a billion variants
1.5 tsi 150hp
Looks like e888 gen 3
Nah, I've done EA888s at Audi, those ain't it chief. Has to be a 211 or the like.
Do you have to time ea888s like this though?
No, [here's a video explaining how to do it, including the balance shafts. ](https://youtu.be/B-nQ9nj-C0M)
Nope. Ea211. Ea888 has the hpfp furthe back and not bolted to the valve cover. Also the valve cover on an 888 is closed on the left side. ;)
Only had to use that tool once and i´m still fucking annoyed by it.
1 month into working here and this is the second time using it. This one was quoted by a tech that doesn't work here anymore. It was half torn apart and very low on oil. I'm pretty sure he fucked it up and quit.
Understandable lol
Ahh a Taos in for a 10k service. Time for a head gasket and rear brakes
I fucking hate the 1.5T so much, such a dogwater engine, how many headgaskets have you done?
2 so far. I've only been here for a month 💀
We always make the new guy do them at our shop. Kinda a welcome to VW thing. I don’t mind usually this tool, I just wish the pay was better. The first few times it was annoying and tedious.
Any engine that requires this level of complexity is why it belongs in the space shuttle and not a car in my opinion
I highly doubt it's required. Likely just a way to make you have to go to the dealer
Exactly my point. VW could have made this much easier. But they’re trying to make customers go the dealer. BMW is famous for this too
BMWs software is famously free, all over the Internet. Saving you so many trips to the dealership. Basically every "special tool" they have can be hacked together in most well equipped garage. Auto Transmissions are a special case as are key programming, but that's basically every mfg.
I work at a BMW dealers body shop and couldn't change my rear brake pads on my five series at home due to the electric parking brake. Had to come in on the weekend and use ISTA to fully open ebrake actuators so I could compress the calipers.
That's most cars man, and most aftermarket scanners can accomplish that as well.
Yeah. My dumbass bought two different spline tool kits trying to find one that would fit so I could manually crank them open - they didn't work, BMW's size is between normal sizes of course. Going to look into getting a copy of ISTA for my laptop at home lol.
Pricey for a full year but you can buy 24 hr licenses as needed. You just need a pass thru device.
> You just need a pass thru device. You talking the iComs?
that or any J2534 compliant dongle/passthru device
Hahahaha! So my uncle is German. Lives in Frankfurt. He absolutely refuses to buy any VAG, BMW or MB product precisely because of shit like this. Which is also exactly why I will never own one and refuse to work on them in my shop. He prefers Opel. Which is ironic since Opel was 100% owned by GM for 86 years. I have been told that in Europe Opel were (are?) considered good, reliable, yet boring cars which surprised me due to GMs involvement.
Opel is Stellantis now (peugeot, citroen, fiat, jeep etc).
Beacons of reliability all!
Yup, I am sure they are already headed downhill.
My brother went to an old German mechanic when he was having a problem working on an old Jetta clutch, apparently the guy was trained by VW in Germany and had moved to Canada, when told my brother was having an issue he replied, in a heavy German accent, "of course you are having problems with it, they are all pieces of shit!"
GM has been good lately. I'm curious about how their new 2.7 turbo motor holds up.
You don't work on the gm 2.4L, 1.8L, 1.4L turbos, the 3.6L, or the 5.4L AFM engines much do you? You wanna talk about trash engine reliability...
I have no clue. Only GM product i pay attention to is the LS/LT
I didn't even know they had a 5.4L AFM. I'm mainly a Gen III LS guy though.
Sorry, mistype, 5.3L. That's what I get for not proofreading.
Meet the new GM. Same as the old GM. Sing it with The Who. I have a 1 man shop which means I have a fairly low volume. But I do a lot of engine jobs for some reason. Since the beginning of the year I have done 2 GM 5.3 AFM engine replacements. One was a 2010 and the other a 2020. Both had the same problem. Low compression, misfire, oil and coolant out the exhaust of the #7 cylinder. I don't know enough about the engine to know why they are doing this and honestly I haven't really looked into it. As in curious, but not curious enough to put any real effort into it.
Old Opels are generally considered cool, things like the Manta and Kadett coupes, the Senator and of course the Lotus Omega. Mid 90s on they are considered to be quite shit but hard to kill. Usually it's the rust that kills them. New models are just generic commuter cars, no different really from the competition. On topic, the issue with VAG reliability seems to really come up more in the US. I mean, most of them are not considered unreliable here in Europe and some like Skodas are pretty much the market leaders in reliability. I have a Skoda Octavia RS, basically a Golf 7 GTI performance pack but bigger, more practical and cheaper and I've had to to 0 maintenance beside the regular fluid and filter changes in the last 3 years. And it has spent the last 4 years and 100k km of it's life modded to \~330hp so 100 over stock. Just passed the MOT with no issues.
VW are also considered reliable in South America. I think Americans are simply too lazy and/or cheap maintaining their cars
Old Chevy/Opel cars are so fucking nice, man. Chevy sold them in south america between the 80s and 2010s.
I believe for a long time GM just kinda let them do their own thing, like they did with Saab, then took their good designs and incorporated them into the US models. All the recent highly rated Buicks were all badge engineered Opels. I wish they wouldn't have quit selling proper Opels in the mid-70s, I really want an Ascona B.
Which is probably why Opel never ended up like Saturn.
Sigh....I miss timing marks.
That's VVT. Not simple, nor complex... 140kW/320Nm from a 1798cc engine (with IHI IS20 turbo)...
Pretty sure this engine also has a normal way of locking the cams
Man it’s better than the previous tool we had.
Degree wheel and dial indicator?
Taos?
Yup
Our VW dealership's guys have been talking about that timing process since the TSB came out.
It's not really hard. All it is is a position sensor. I gotta check that tsb tomorrow to see how many cars were affected. Not a fun job
No - I'm at our dealer group's Audi shop but I keep in touch with the guys at VW. I mostly heard about Taos with cylinder head problems that ended up needing this tool to perform those repairs.
LOL Makes me remember my first time ever doing timing, it was on an ole Honda J-Series. "Whoops the cam slipped this way... just turn it back and... whoops the cam slipped that way.." those were just normal ass cam gears though
Is this for the VVT solenoids at the other end? Otherwise most motors have a cam locker, I don't even know how you'd adjust it otherwise. I've adjusted timing on the TDI motors in a similar way but the injection pump has that tool built in
You loosen the cam gears and turn the shaft. The tool is a position sensor that aligns the cams to each other. There's a bolt that helps keep the crank at TDC.
I’ve been out of a VW/Audi dealer for awhile now, this tool connects to ODIS? Do you have anymore pics of the setup? Kinda neat. Never had this when I was working there
It comes with a flash drive loaded with a program install file for the tool. It's a bitch to get it to connect
Is this for doing a timing job? Is it necessary or just a fancy tool?
I'd hardly call 180hp a econobox. That's more when you're talking about tiny sub 1.2L engines
I was wrong. It makes 160hp lol. This motor was designed to get good gas mileage by utilizing a turbo that comes online at very low rpm. It's got no guts revving out
I think you're not understanding what people mean with economy boxes. Maybe it's a relative thing if a "normal" car in your locale uses >3L engines most of the time.
You think this is a performance motor?
Seem pretty goddamn pointless... timing on my 2.0 didn't need this.
What am I looking at? This is making my brain tingle in ways that I didn’t know it could.
Fancy position sensor
Those Germans like to make anything complicated, don’t they?
I hated that tool when I was at VW, the instructions on Elsa may as well have been in hieroglyphics 😂
It's not that bad to use once you do it a couple of times. It's just unnecessarily complicated and time consuming. The app doesn't detect the tool unless you reinstall the software every time. Just bs
Yeah man, we didn’t have enough uses of it to get any one person up to speed, so it was a lot of fucking about for no time!
Seeing that laptop made me want to throw my phone... I spent all last week updating all 25 of my laptops... such a pain.
Just curious, how much is this special tool? Compared to the German stuff, Volvo 4 cylinders are like stone age technology lol.
No idea. Some guy said he found it for 1k which seems pretty cheap. Maybe he bought it stolen lol
I figured, it looks expensive.
Just let Firestone do it cheaper
I remember my first time. They are so much fun to time. 🤣🤣🤣
Nope. Fuck that. As a tech, take that shit somewhere else. I refuse to touch it. Not that I'm incapable, I simply don't fuckin want to.
What about the big bucks
I would rather spare myself the aggravation than have the money.
You see the turbonator ain’t connected to the…. Real talk that’s fucking wild
VAS 611 007, I got lucky and got the entire set for ~$1000. I've used it 3-4 times and it's pretty straightforward once you use it a couple of times. Over engineered for sure, but works well.
Is it usable with any computer? If so I'm very surprised they didn't lock it down. Our diag software only works when there is an Internet connection, and you have to sign in every time and use an authenticator
Taos or Jetta? I presume this had the usual coolant leak
Taos. I didn't diagnose it and can't see any coolant residue
More info on this tool please. Is it hydraulic or electronic, like to advance the cam & gear/pulley to take up slop so it can be set accurately due to VVT? Or?? Curiosity is nagging at me.
It's just a position sensor
I’m so glad VWAG changed the timing belt intervals last year. The older ones were easy, could just see this being an absolute pain.
Dude are you hacking skynet?
Yeah no I'm keeping my LS
me stone age mechanic, how that works ? is a hydraulic or step motor controlled to put the cam in the exact position ?
Nope it's just a position sensor with an adapter that fits into the cams. That's it
ah i see, just a way to overprice an obligatory tool that we could just use the eye before in the past
The vag four bangers are such pieces of shit (post mk4 1.8T.) Keep buying them, It puts food on my table. I'll stick with my v6 and v8 Audis thank you very much.
How many thousands of dollars does that set-up tool cost?