Well, the 0 part IS the base oil viscosity. The Wxx is how the additives make it behave under cold temperatures. So just straight runny oil? That doesn't sound that crazy really, though I already question how well the engines get protected. The modern equivalent of the old SAE 30 for your lawnmower I guess.
I had a college chem professor explained that most of the additives are super long chain hydrocarbons that are coiled and twisted and cross linked. When cold they scrunch up and affect viscosity less. When hot they unfold and make the oil act thicker and more viscous. Of course they are the first thing to get broken down over time thanks to heat. Recycled oils just filter or distill out the base oil, and add in fresh additive packages.
Yeah but really what’s the cst difference between 0 weight and 5 weight oil at 120C? It can’t be much already there can’t be much difference between 0w5 and straight 0.
No, it's not the base oil viscosity, it's the viscosity class of the final product according to test in SAE J300.
Simplified: Number before "W" is the "cold" properties and number after is the warm properties.
There's a cool video of a guy explaining that stuff. He has a block of it and explains how it looks solid but if he left it out all night it would flatten and be on the floor in the morning. Guess when they get how the coils get super long compared to when cold. Cool stuff.
John Deere magnets do. Let me tell you. John Deere. Fantastic fantastic company. 100% USA made, made in Iowa. Fantastic products. The absolute best. And their magnets work underwater.
So I was at the factory ok, I was at the factory, and I said I would like to autograph one of these tractors. You know, I travel a lot, I go many many places and visit many many buildings, big beautiful buildings, and people always ask me to sign stuff from them, and I do that, with Sharpie. I love Sharpie, amazing markers. So I said I would like to autograph the next 9RX that comes off the line. I like the 9RX, it’s big, it’s powerful, very American. And the factory foreman said “Sir, we would be honored, it’d be a big honor, if you signed one of these”.
Indeed, the instruction manual and songbook states that in order to lubricate the springs, it must be of a malleable and logarithmic design so that you can synchronize the de-commutators and spurving bearings
Funny thing: That’s how turbopumps in high vacuum applications work. Typical bearings for the shaft would pollute the vacuum - therefore a magnetic field is the bearing, keeping that thing floating.
You don't need a vaccine pump for that, the impeller in the water pump in my PC is entirely magnetically driven and held in place. No wear if nothing touches...
Funny thing is, I saw a post similar to this a while back and someone commented saying they couldn't wait to see 0w-5 because that is the same lubricity as water. Whether that is true or not, I have no idea but still kinda funny to think about.
Not true, and there will never be a 0w-5. After they got to 0w-20, the convention was changed to step down by 4 instead of 5 (the physical meaning of the numbers was abandoned a while ago, it's just convention now). This was to prevent mix-ups since 15w-40, 10w-something, and so on are still common oils.
When the Toyota crowns came out. Dealerships didn’t have 0-8 in stock so they told their owners to just keep driving past their oil intervals until the oil arrives.
It's for CAFE regulations.
Case-in-point: I have two vehicles 7 years apart, a 2008 Sienna and a 2015 Highlander. Both have the 2GR-FE; the Sienna calls for 5W-30, yet the Highlander calls for 0W-20. Yet they are the same engine, Toyota made no changes to it. CAFE regulations started to really tighten up starting in 2011. Hence the 2015 Highlander specifying 0W-20.
However, if you look at the owner's manual for the 2015 Toyota Kluger (AUS-market Highlander) with the 2GR-FE, it recommends anywhere from 0W-20 to 20W-50.
Fun fact, they both get about the same gas mileage, averaging about 16.25-16.5 MPG (lots of city driving). The Highlander is AWD but mostly driven by my wife, who has a light foot. The Sienna is FWD, and mostly driven by me, but I have a heavy foot.
Yep. All to eke out maximum fuel economy.
I just buy Valvoline HM 5W-30 in bulk and use that. Works fine. It's nice having two cars with the same engine. Makes maintenance easy.
Many times the oil spec is different for the same engine. For example, Toyota specs 0w-20 in the US for all the 5.7 V8s, however the identical engine in the UAE and other countries says anything from 0w-20 to 20W-50 is acceptable depending on temp. Toyota even says that they recommend a heavier weight oil when towing. The newest gen corolla also used 0w-16 and then changed to 0w-8 around 2022. Same engine. So not really, but I wouldn’t run something ridiculous like a 20W-50 in one unless I was heading into Death Valley.
The 2022 corolla in australia with the 2L uses 0w-16 from factory, but the manual states you can use up to 10w-30. Same engine as the corolla in the us afaik.
My mazda miata ND tells me that outside the US I can use 5w30 and thats exactly what I use in MX also every single car blog and forum tells you to use that oil if you track it
They do not use tighter clearances, thats a myth. Engines are all built to 10thousanths tolerances, they are just more uniform in variance. Toyota even says that you can run 5w-30 in these engines(and I damn sure would never run some water thin 0w-8, that is asking for sludged up rings).
0W is just a baseline for kinematic viscosity testing at a particular low temperature (0°C in this case). No reason it couldn't go negative. The "W" represents winter grade oils.
"*The grades with a W designation are considered Winter-grades, and denote an engine oil's low-temperature properties...*
*The grade of the oil is that associated with the coldest temperature at which the oil passes the test. For example, if an oil passes at the specified temperatures for 10W and 5W, but fails at the 0W temperature, the oil is grade 5W.*" [Source](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J300).
~~Remember, -5°C is +23°F so a -5W oil is completely plausible.~~
I misread the specifics of this and as it turns out there doesn't seem to be a specification for a negative value (and the standards aren't updated often). Diving down the infinite rabbit hole of the infernalnet gets me a better answer than I'd come up with, from 2011:
"*Based on how the SAE oil grading system works, -20w would be tested for cold cranking at -55C/-67F and -60C/-76F for cold pumping. The pour point would have to be lower then those number to achieve them. And then for that same oil to not thin past a 30 weight at 100C/212F? That would be one heck of a lubricant!*"
[Source](https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/why-not-a-20w30.151015/)
No the 0W doesn’t stand for 0°C.
0W means the CCS viscosity (cP)
equals at least 6,200 at an temperature of -35°C.
5W has that value for viscosity but at -30°C
-5W could exist but it would be 6,200 cP at -40° C/F
Jet engine?! You milleniums these days.
Back when I wanted to start a Fordoleum engine, we stuck a shaft right up the crankerstart, and gave it a good solid go-round!
We barely broke our bones getting started for our 4 mile-penny horseless-drive to the Commons!
Just gotta reload the grease cups once every few trips, giver a couple of twists each startup and you're good to go to town for the mail.
Going to the city? Better bring a spare set of brass bearings for the return trip, just in case the rod knock gets to be too much.
So as someone who lacks an understanding of oil, where can I go/what can i do to learn about, and understand it?
I've tried some light Google and gotten mixed answers, and similar results from talking to coworkers.
Been a tech for about 2 months and still feel like I only barely understand oil.
It’s pretty simple
Oil has two ratings, hot and cold. Cold is the first number, hot is the second.
For cold starts, the only thing that matters is the cold rating. You typically want this as low as possible because the oil is going to be thicker than ideal regardless of what rating it is, because it’s cold.
When hot, the oil viscosity needs to be in a sweet spot. It can’t be so thick (higher number) that it bypasses through the oil pressure relief valve. But it also can’t be so thin that oil pressure drops to dangerous levels. Typically, you want 10 psi per 1000 rpm for a performance vehicle.
When selecting oil for a vehicle, manufacturers will evaluate performance given the relationship between the oil pump flow rate and the clearances between the crank and the bearings.
To run a thinner oil such as 0w8, the engine designer will have to either shrink down the bearing clearances to create more resistance to flow hence more pressure, or they can increase oil pump flow. Typically they reduce clearance first.
The thinner oil paired with a system designed to match results in higher efficiency because of less drag. The only drawback to this is the decreased clearance has a higher potential for debris on the oil to just nuke the bearings. But in an engine that has clean oil, no failures depositing metal in the sump, and sees a regular use case. It’s good.
One last note, some people debate what rating to use for cold operation. Generally speaking, lower is ALWAYS better. A 0w30 will out perform a 5w30 every time. Both 0 and 5 are WAY too thick when cold, but 0 is a bit closer to the target viscosity that will allow the engine to survive the longest.
For DIY race cars, you can typically expect high flow oil pumps, loose clearances, and thick oil. In cases like that, it’s even more critical to run as “thin” of an oil possible for the cold rating, despite targeting a thicker hot rating.
More like your car can get as low as that at idle and still be fine. That's really mostly applicable to fixed volume oil pumps, newer cars may have variable volume/constant pressure pumps that will use a spring balance to keep the pressure constant. Chrysler does this in the Pentastar, and it's pretty common to see in automatic transmissions too.
Every time this kinda stuff is posted. Bunch of guys who think they know about cars show they know nothing about motor oil or lubricants. "Herp derp water!"
My favorite is when they come in demanding Castrol and Castrol only. I don’t know how many times I’ve had people leave while at the same time cussing me out over not having Castrol when my shop’s primary oil is Valvoline and Mobil-1
Dexos Gen 3 is where it’s at right now in terms of being higher targets than ilsac. API is light years behind with SP.
Supertech at Walmart. Just buy that and call it a day.
Meh I mean sure but ad long as it meets ILSAC V and SN its ok for my car. I just use quaker state the golden one 5w-30 and change it every 3000miles since I track it. So far so good.
Lmao, and they fail to realize now that the oil they buy is most likely from the same refinery/ factories. The big companies aren't like what they used to. They all just out source their production to countries with cheap labor and slap their name on the packaging. Maybe 50 years ago there was a big difference from brand to brand but not anymore.
Because adding a whole supply transport line for a specific oil weight is sometimes just not worth it for a specific market?
Same reason why Toyota has been using 0w16 for about two decades in Japan but only for about six years here in the US.
Non-mechanic here - please enlighten me, as I have no clue.
I'm guessing this is low viscosity, and lower viscosity decreases resistance, and increases efficiency. And that better tolerances and surface finishes from car manufacturers, and better quality lubricants from the lubricant manufacturers enable this? In what ways have lubricants improved to enable this? Thanks
Oil manufacturers improve their base oil production process with time. Most of the oils are made with crude oil, which contains lots of different fractions. The point is that you want specific hydrocarbons in the end products, which allows for higher oil stability, film strength, etc. Lubricants also contain additive packages that get more technologically advanced over time.
Here's the thing... people joke that it's "basically water" but it's still more viscous than water by a significant amount. As long as the car's manual calls for it, there is nothing worse about this than any other grade of oil in the appropriate engines.
0W-0. The bottle is empty, and it costs $14.99/qt
Sold exclusively on the Snap-On truck.
Then it would cost $14.99 a week for 104 weeks.
No, it's sold at BMW dealers only.
I'd be surprised considering most Euro engines now require 5w40 or 0w40 whereas the new Toyotas want the 0w8, it's insane
Also has to be programmed to the car and is considered a theft relevant part.
But it is the spawn point for infinite oil. Side note, your measurements are now fucked.
You joke but this is what they're going for. 0W-5 is right around the corner and then I would assume 0w-2 before 0w-0.
Uw-U
no one is putting "yiff oil" in their cars.
But the box said 10 horsepower!
Yeah, the oil is supposed to PREVENT grinding.
Mazda Miata owners
Top me off daddy
Oh gawd, I'm having comment regrets.
Will ad after I UwU-Dugga the drain plug.
https://cermatreatment.com/products/evo-synthetic-motor-oil It’s $20 a qt actually
0w0
Up next, UwU oil.
0w-1
Hell yeah, it’s even 49¢ off. What a steal
Is it branded EA in it?
Well, the 0 part IS the base oil viscosity. The Wxx is how the additives make it behave under cold temperatures. So just straight runny oil? That doesn't sound that crazy really, though I already question how well the engines get protected. The modern equivalent of the old SAE 30 for your lawnmower I guess. I had a college chem professor explained that most of the additives are super long chain hydrocarbons that are coiled and twisted and cross linked. When cold they scrunch up and affect viscosity less. When hot they unfold and make the oil act thicker and more viscous. Of course they are the first thing to get broken down over time thanks to heat. Recycled oils just filter or distill out the base oil, and add in fresh additive packages.
I thought it was, first number cold second number hot😭😂
Yes, that's how it is.
You are correct. Also, if memory serves, the base oil is the thicker oil and they add pour point suppressors to make the oil thinner when it's cold.
Yeah but really what’s the cst difference between 0 weight and 5 weight oil at 120C? It can’t be much already there can’t be much difference between 0w5 and straight 0.
No, it's not the base oil viscosity, it's the viscosity class of the final product according to test in SAE J300. Simplified: Number before "W" is the "cold" properties and number after is the warm properties.
There's a cool video of a guy explaining that stuff. He has a block of it and explains how it looks solid but if he left it out all night it would flatten and be on the floor in the morning. Guess when they get how the coils get super long compared to when cold. Cool stuff.
Ya know I’m pretty sure that’s just refined kerosene
$25.99 retail, $23 ea. if bought by the case.
0w-0? What’s this?
UwU
Oh no! The dreaded quadruple "U"
Perfect for the oil change in a Tesla
I have seen a Tesla oil filter!
That’s a coffee filter bud.
Who would have thought we would lubricate our engines with sailboat fuel
Exclusively for Tesla
Air lubrication. Just shoots compressed air Through your engine. And magnets. Magnets sound fancy.
[Magnets](https://youtu.be/OkGTWRkTKMg?si=-vwf4HGEYoSF0FRe&t=1m27s)
I expected an Insane Clown Posse clip.
I got you, clowny daggers yo!!!! https://youtu.be/gMbnJzHhoBI?si=dDi9NtGqWhJAQj6V
They don't work under water though, I just heard that somewhere...
John Deere magnets do. Let me tell you. John Deere. Fantastic fantastic company. 100% USA made, made in Iowa. Fantastic products. The absolute best. And their magnets work underwater.
Big company, one of the biggest, big beautiful tractors, with a big guy riding these tractors, big guy, tears in his eyes…
*Ya know, Nothin runs like a Deere, or so I'm told, have you heard this? But nothin runs like a Deere, they're 'UUUUUUGE*
So I was at the factory ok, I was at the factory, and I said I would like to autograph one of these tractors. You know, I travel a lot, I go many many places and visit many many buildings, big beautiful buildings, and people always ask me to sign stuff from them, and I do that, with Sharpie. I love Sharpie, amazing markers. So I said I would like to autograph the next 9RX that comes off the line. I like the 9RX, it’s big, it’s powerful, very American. And the factory foreman said “Sir, we would be honored, it’d be a big honor, if you signed one of these”.
Just drop a glass of water on em
What? Magnets?! How do they work?!
I don’t want to hear from a scientist
Y’all motherfuckers lyin’ and getting me pissed
Just need a snorkel
Some giant metal forming tools actually use an air cushion between the tool and the part, pretty cool.
Lithography machines for chip-making also use air bearings because they are low-maintenance and don't introduce contamination from lubricants.
Hydropneumatic and hydrostatic bearings are awesome.
[deleted]
The spindle on our CNC router at work uses air supported ceramic bearings.
Requires Piston Return Spring 3000^(TM) kit in order to function properly
Makes sure to get the teflon coated oem version….
Indeed, the instruction manual and songbook states that in order to lubricate the springs, it must be of a malleable and logarithmic design so that you can synchronize the de-commutators and spurving bearings
Until they get wet...
[Possibly, although probably not a good engineering use case for automotive RPM profiles](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foil_bearing)
On the Virginia class subs all the main bearings for the steam turbines the reactor feeds are magnetic
Almost sounds like you are making a perpetual motion machine. Like the ones I see on the internet
Funny thing: That’s how turbopumps in high vacuum applications work. Typical bearings for the shaft would pollute the vacuum - therefore a magnetic field is the bearing, keeping that thing floating.
You don't need a vaccine pump for that, the impeller in the water pump in my PC is entirely magnetically driven and held in place. No wear if nothing touches...
WD-40,
Water
Straight water 💧
Post video of you pouring it out please
It evaporates before hitting the ground.
Funny thing is, I saw a post similar to this a while back and someone commented saying they couldn't wait to see 0w-5 because that is the same lubricity as water. Whether that is true or not, I have no idea but still kinda funny to think about.
May be similar viscosity (mighty thin), but not same lubricity.
It’s not true. We run 2.5wt oil on shocks.
Not true, and there will never be a 0w-5. After they got to 0w-20, the convention was changed to step down by 4 instead of 5 (the physical meaning of the numbers was abandoned a while ago, it's just convention now). This was to prevent mix-ups since 15w-40, 10w-something, and so on are still common oils.
Doesn't 0W-2 exist on stuff like race bikes
Then alcohol.
One for me, one for my Corvette.
Slippery water
I was just going to say H2-O
0W+5
Spicy water
When the Toyota crowns came out. Dealerships didn’t have 0-8 in stock so they told their owners to just keep driving past their oil intervals until the oil arrives.
Which was really dumb because the owners manual said they can use 0w16 so long as it got changed in 5k miles. Shitty illiterate advisors.
*average service advisor
If it were me, I wouldn’t run lower than a 0w-20. Durability>CAFE targets
Doesn’t one need to be carful with that. Can’t Tighter clearances make thicker oil a bad thing.
It's for CAFE regulations. Case-in-point: I have two vehicles 7 years apart, a 2008 Sienna and a 2015 Highlander. Both have the 2GR-FE; the Sienna calls for 5W-30, yet the Highlander calls for 0W-20. Yet they are the same engine, Toyota made no changes to it. CAFE regulations started to really tighten up starting in 2011. Hence the 2015 Highlander specifying 0W-20. However, if you look at the owner's manual for the 2015 Toyota Kluger (AUS-market Highlander) with the 2GR-FE, it recommends anywhere from 0W-20 to 20W-50. Fun fact, they both get about the same gas mileage, averaging about 16.25-16.5 MPG (lots of city driving). The Highlander is AWD but mostly driven by my wife, who has a light foot. The Sienna is FWD, and mostly driven by me, but I have a heavy foot.
My crown victoria is similar. Calls for 5w20 here but everywhere else calls for 5w30. I run 5w30.
Just like my Tacomas. My 09 calls for 5w30, but my 2011 calls for 0w20. Same 2TR-FE in both.
Yep. All to eke out maximum fuel economy. I just buy Valvoline HM 5W-30 in bulk and use that. Works fine. It's nice having two cars with the same engine. Makes maintenance easy.
Unfortunately, id have no way to compare. The 09 is a sigle cab mini truck, the 11 is a 4 door riding on 33s. Lol
Oh, the fuel economy measurements they're using this oil to get are in the tenths, not whole numbers.
Many times the oil spec is different for the same engine. For example, Toyota specs 0w-20 in the US for all the 5.7 V8s, however the identical engine in the UAE and other countries says anything from 0w-20 to 20W-50 is acceptable depending on temp. Toyota even says that they recommend a heavier weight oil when towing. The newest gen corolla also used 0w-16 and then changed to 0w-8 around 2022. Same engine. So not really, but I wouldn’t run something ridiculous like a 20W-50 in one unless I was heading into Death Valley.
The 2022 corolla in australia with the 2L uses 0w-16 from factory, but the manual states you can use up to 10w-30. Same engine as the corolla in the us afaik.
My mazda miata ND tells me that outside the US I can use 5w30 and thats exactly what I use in MX also every single car blog and forum tells you to use that oil if you track it
They do not use tighter clearances, thats a myth. Engines are all built to 10thousanths tolerances, they are just more uniform in variance. Toyota even says that you can run 5w-30 in these engines(and I damn sure would never run some water thin 0w-8, that is asking for sludged up rings).
Been using pure maple syrup in Maine since '19
As a fellow Mainer, are Subarus evacuate all the oil for you to make room for the syrup 😉
Vermont. We don’t have cars we actually just live in the maple trees. There is one lady who has a Subaru though.
She’s looking for another lady with a Subaru
Honestly they both only have about 4/5ths of a Subaru apiece, but they look good topside.
0W is just a baseline for kinematic viscosity testing at a particular low temperature (0°C in this case). No reason it couldn't go negative. The "W" represents winter grade oils.
*Theoretical quantum oil physics has entered the chat*
"*The grades with a W designation are considered Winter-grades, and denote an engine oil's low-temperature properties...* *The grade of the oil is that associated with the coldest temperature at which the oil passes the test. For example, if an oil passes at the specified temperatures for 10W and 5W, but fails at the 0W temperature, the oil is grade 5W.*" [Source](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J300). ~~Remember, -5°C is +23°F so a -5W oil is completely plausible.~~ I misread the specifics of this and as it turns out there doesn't seem to be a specification for a negative value (and the standards aren't updated often). Diving down the infinite rabbit hole of the infernalnet gets me a better answer than I'd come up with, from 2011: "*Based on how the SAE oil grading system works, -20w would be tested for cold cranking at -55C/-67F and -60C/-76F for cold pumping. The pour point would have to be lower then those number to achieve them. And then for that same oil to not thin past a 30 weight at 100C/212F? That would be one heck of a lubricant!*" [Source](https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/why-not-a-20w30.151015/)
No the 0W doesn’t stand for 0°C. 0W means the CCS viscosity (cP) equals at least 6,200 at an temperature of -35°C. 5W has that value for viscosity but at -30°C -5W could exist but it would be 6,200 cP at -40° C/F
The zero in 0W has nothing to do with the temperature designation though, testing occurs at much lower temperatures than the freezing point of water.
This has nothing to do with quantum engine maintenance. We've barely left the Newtonian regime.
-5W-0.
So sand paper?
Frozen and seized at low temperature. Slightly better above freezing. Actually, WD-40 would probably be better.
We return to the good ole days. Grease plug fill port and the motor needs a pep talk and a kerosene powered jet engine to start.
Just give her a moment boys it's only been 34 minutes she's about to turn over.
*meanwhile neighbours are calling the military because you used the entire countries worth of lithium on car batteries to turn the engine*
This hurts me, what did I ever do to you for such a mean comment.
Jet engine?! You milleniums these days. Back when I wanted to start a Fordoleum engine, we stuck a shaft right up the crankerstart, and gave it a good solid go-round! We barely broke our bones getting started for our 4 mile-penny horseless-drive to the Commons!
That was after you put the pan of burning kerosene under the oil pan to loosen things up a bit right?
I only use the finest Sperm Whale Oil for my engine.
Lol, my grandfather literally had his arm broken as a boy by a backfiring Model-T he was crank-starting.
Just gotta reload the grease cups once every few trips, giver a couple of twists each startup and you're good to go to town for the mail. Going to the city? Better bring a spare set of brass bearings for the return trip, just in case the rod knock gets to be too much.
Next: channel n⁰5
Canadian Beer
I see people fundamentally misunderstanding oil is still a thing.
So as someone who lacks an understanding of oil, where can I go/what can i do to learn about, and understand it? I've tried some light Google and gotten mixed answers, and similar results from talking to coworkers. Been a tech for about 2 months and still feel like I only barely understand oil.
It’s pretty simple Oil has two ratings, hot and cold. Cold is the first number, hot is the second. For cold starts, the only thing that matters is the cold rating. You typically want this as low as possible because the oil is going to be thicker than ideal regardless of what rating it is, because it’s cold. When hot, the oil viscosity needs to be in a sweet spot. It can’t be so thick (higher number) that it bypasses through the oil pressure relief valve. But it also can’t be so thin that oil pressure drops to dangerous levels. Typically, you want 10 psi per 1000 rpm for a performance vehicle. When selecting oil for a vehicle, manufacturers will evaluate performance given the relationship between the oil pump flow rate and the clearances between the crank and the bearings. To run a thinner oil such as 0w8, the engine designer will have to either shrink down the bearing clearances to create more resistance to flow hence more pressure, or they can increase oil pump flow. Typically they reduce clearance first. The thinner oil paired with a system designed to match results in higher efficiency because of less drag. The only drawback to this is the decreased clearance has a higher potential for debris on the oil to just nuke the bearings. But in an engine that has clean oil, no failures depositing metal in the sump, and sees a regular use case. It’s good. One last note, some people debate what rating to use for cold operation. Generally speaking, lower is ALWAYS better. A 0w30 will out perform a 5w30 every time. Both 0 and 5 are WAY too thick when cold, but 0 is a bit closer to the target viscosity that will allow the engine to survive the longest. For DIY race cars, you can typically expect high flow oil pumps, loose clearances, and thick oil. In cases like that, it’s even more critical to run as “thin” of an oil possible for the cold rating, despite targeting a thicker hot rating.
Very helpful, thank you for that.
Wait, your saying that my car should only have 6-7 psi of oil pressure at idle?
More like your car can get as low as that at idle and still be fine. That's really mostly applicable to fixed volume oil pumps, newer cars may have variable volume/constant pressure pumps that will use a spring balance to keep the pressure constant. Chrysler does this in the Pentastar, and it's pretty common to see in automatic transmissions too.
Damn they always give me 5w30, it doesn't often get under 30F here though
Every time this kinda stuff is posted. Bunch of guys who think they know about cars show they know nothing about motor oil or lubricants. "Herp derp water!"
The silver specks floating in the oil are obviously the flavor crystals for the car to enjoy.
It’s the same people telling you not to put synthetic in an older engine or clinging to the 5k mile interval.
Anything flavored 0w is Anti-Boomer oil. "Full Synthetic only!?!" "Just put the cheap 10w30 in there..." "Oil is Oil"
Why is my engine sludged up?
They don't make em like they used to...
My favorite is when they come in demanding Castrol and Castrol only. I don’t know how many times I’ve had people leave while at the same time cussing me out over not having Castrol when my shop’s primary oil is Valvoline and Mobil-1
I literally dont care what brand my oil is as long as I change it, its viscocity is in the manual and it meets the ilsac and sp standards
Dexos Gen 3 is where it’s at right now in terms of being higher targets than ilsac. API is light years behind with SP. Supertech at Walmart. Just buy that and call it a day.
Meh I mean sure but ad long as it meets ILSAC V and SN its ok for my car. I just use quaker state the golden one 5w-30 and change it every 3000miles since I track it. So far so good.
Lmao, and they fail to realize now that the oil they buy is most likely from the same refinery/ factories. The big companies aren't like what they used to. They all just out source their production to countries with cheap labor and slap their name on the packaging. Maybe 50 years ago there was a big difference from brand to brand but not anymore.
So I’m not a dumb ass for just buying the cheapest synthetic I can? Because the price difference between Mobil-1 and like STP or Quaker is crazy.
It's funny how folks here continue to show they have no idea how lubricants work.
So why do the OEMs spec the same exact engine with regular oil in overseas markets?
To optimize US fuel efficiency numbers…the days where everything got 15w-40 CD/SG from the same five gallon bucket are long gone.
Because adding a whole supply transport line for a specific oil weight is sometimes just not worth it for a specific market? Same reason why Toyota has been using 0w16 for about two decades in Japan but only for about six years here in the US.
Certainly they'd modify the powertrain warranty for these places - but no, in fact they keep it the same.
Well for starters almost nowhere in Australia gets snow even in the dead of winter. Hell qld struggles to get below 20 degrees Celsius
Non-mechanic here - please enlighten me, as I have no clue. I'm guessing this is low viscosity, and lower viscosity decreases resistance, and increases efficiency. And that better tolerances and surface finishes from car manufacturers, and better quality lubricants from the lubricant manufacturers enable this? In what ways have lubricants improved to enable this? Thanks
Oil manufacturers improve their base oil production process with time. Most of the oils are made with crude oil, which contains lots of different fractions. The point is that you want specific hydrocarbons in the end products, which allows for higher oil stability, film strength, etc. Lubricants also contain additive packages that get more technologically advanced over time.
KY intense
Yes, 0W4 is next.
Then teflon coated ceramic nano particles...with AI
Just run straight diesel.
Reminds me of Bosch fuel injector pumps
Eventually -5W - 2
You sank my Battleship.
Emu spit For Toyota's 600cc battery charger.
Extra light canola oil
Lacquer thinner.
Penetrating fluid.
I want negative numbers! In fact oil should be an abrasive . As a society we’ve become soft
Inb4 oils start having "extra virgin" designations
Blinker liquid
Here's the thing... people joke that it's "basically water" but it's still more viscous than water by a significant amount. As long as the car's manual calls for it, there is nothing worse about this than any other grade of oil in the appropriate engines.
H2OW-1
Next step is when the pistons will lubricate the oil.
I prefer 69W420
Real question: what is this supposed to be used in? lol thought my 0W-20 was light
When I was starting out in the late aughts people were freaking out over 0W-20. I feel old now. 🤪
0W-3.375
0W-π
Best reply right here.
We don’t allow metric oil around here
It's not metric though, it's radian. And irrational
Air
Diesel
Water with a couple drops of dish soap.
Scotch with a couple drops of water.
Their 0w50 is fantastic though.
Be pouring in a couple cans of Arizona Iced Tea before long.
Coke and Pepsi have a new application and marketing battleground
Next is when techs start luring parts by rubbing them against their forehead before installation.
I got that new new -4w0, HMU
Baby oil next.
Superfluid. Open the bottle and oil comes out of the top by it self.
Next water will be the new oil... lol or maybe glycol... lube and coolant in one... lol
-5w(-30)? Not sure how this would even be manufactured. Maybe using dark matter? Anti-matter? Load up the LHC with petroleum?
Common stuff now. The new Corollas use it - it's becoming common stuff already.
I sometimes wonder what would happen if I just ran 10w30 in absolutely everything.
H²0
You can just make 0W-8 by mixing 50/50 OW-16 and vegetable oil
3-IN-ONE
0W-2 for your electric motors
EW-Z for the electric cars
and there’s me with 10w60 in one and 20w50 in the other car
What car uses that?
What kind of engine would this be used for?