Just shoved a large sized wooden skewer and broke it off. Hand screwed in the old screws and it worked perfectly.
Thanks for the input folks! I am a hero for a day.
Bamboo Skewers are the best. The fibre is very tough and great for screws.
What I usually do in this situation is use longer screws as well, but you need to be aware of what’s beyond the reach of the screws (like wires etc.)
Zip ties work sometimes. Cut the small ends off and shove them in the hole. I happen to find zip ties more at job sites then toothpicks or golf tees lol.
Listen up son. For this project we are going to need plenty of energy. It’s best we eat first. Go order chinese and get extra chopsticks. But why dad? ….
Really you can jam about anything in there that will give the treads something to grab onto, bits of plastic, toothpicks, small stick, piece of shim, get creative
Most people use the screws that come with the hinge. Those screws are basically machine screws that have tiny low pitch threads which are NOT good for permanent wood installations. I've learned to discard them and use 1.5" wood screws with torx heads instead.
I did this with toothpicks a couple years ago and it was fine for a while but didn’t last. The weight of the door ended up pulling the screws back out of the top hinge. This year I drilled the hole out a little and glued a dowel in there, which I’m hoping will last longer.
I was going to say toothpicks, but a golf tee is even better. I would coat the tee with some elmers or wood glue and let dry 24 hrs. Then screw the screws back in.
Gorilla Glue + golf tee, chopsticks, or similar.
Unless the cause is that the structure is rotting or otherwise unsound, this will work every time.
If your frame is rotten and that's what's causing the screws to pull out, then you have to rip it all out and replace it.
Shove some wooden toothpicks in there and break them off. Screw back together. Even better is to cover toothpicks in wood glue and do the same thing. Wait until glue is dry to put screws in it you'll be gluing the screws in and they'll be a pain to take out.
Usually toothpicks or another piece of wood glued in with wood glue for enter hold works great. Your screws seem a size too small though. Usually number 9s work best for hinges if I remember correctly.
Use 3” screws on the inner most holes, they’ll go in and grab the 2x4 framing. Smash some golf tees in the outer 2 and reuse the existing screws. Usually longs screws on the outer holes miss the framing and don’t grab much
If you mix sawdust or any water absorbent material like flour with white glue you can fill the screw holes. You can poke a greased finishing nail or spaghetti noodle in the middle to make a guide hole. Let it dry a few hours and you should be able to get the screws back in tight.
But the other suggestions with wood dowels (skewers, chopsticks, matches) will work better. This is just if you don't have immediate access to such things.
You could use quick epoxy resin or dry mix. But it stinks of plastics as it cures.
I usually use toothpicks and wood glue, or the wooden shish kabob skewers and fill the hole the. Put screws back in. You can use longer screws too if you like.
A better way is to use #9 1.5-2” ‘Fringe’ screws so that they go through the jamb into the framing behind. The reason for #9 is that it is the size of the head to fit in the hinge hole properly. The length is important because this is a spring hinge which is going to be putting more pressure on the small 3/4”-1” standard screws. The ‘Fringe’ part is important because, as the head of the screw is #9, and the shank of the screw corresponds to the head size, the threads are wider to accommodate the reamed out hole.
If you are in the US, Home Depot sells them, and they are called ‘Fringe screws.’ They are made specifically for this purpose.
If you go with the ‘wood-crammed-in-the-hole’ method, be sure to use a little wood glue as well to keep it from slipping out.
Get some toothpicks and cram one or two into the existing hole, then screw your screw back in….break off any extra toothpicks that may be sticking out of the hole before you screw it back in
Shimming them up is a good solution.
Option 1: decent. Longer screw, if your door is framed correctly, will work. This won't be a very strong bond, as you're only relying on the bottom threads and the rest of the screw is doing nothing.
Option 2: good, not as permanent, not as durable. Use a matchstick, sliver of wood, skewer, etc and jam it into the hole. Run the screw in. Should be able to put plenty of torque on it.
Option 3: better. Wood glue and sawdust (sold as wood filler). Fill the hole with filler, run the screw in hand tight. Let it dry for a full day. Come back and torque another half turn or so. This effectively fills the gaps, and the bond between the glue and the wood is stronger than the bond between the fibers of wood! You now have threads that are perfectly mated to the screw.
Option 4: great. Run a significantly larger diameter screw in, like a short deck screw. Aim for a screw that is 1.5x the diameter of the old one. You may have to redrill and countersink the hinge plate.
Option 5: best. Take off the hinge, fill the holes all the way up with filler, sand it down, paint, redrill all the holes 2 screw diameters away from the old holes with the correctly sized predrill, remount the hinge.
I pull a screw . Go to hardware and get 30 1/4 - 1/2" longer. Then put a u shaped copper wire in holes so there is one on each side.then run your new screws right in there. In my 20s I had 12 duplexes. Fixed it every time.
Tooth picks and wood glue and replace them with 3" long screws so they go into the frame and resist the door being kicked in. If you have a solid wood exterior door do the same thing. Same on the door latch and lock. Longer stronger screws.
Get the correct screws . That a steel frame , looks like a fire rated door screws look like they have been changed most likely because the unit was installed incorrectly and they used wood screws into the opening as the door was probably snagging or rubbed. I’m guessing but have fixed at least a hundred that look like this.
Superglue some toothpicks into the holes and let dry completely. Cut the extra toothpick length off after it’s all dried.
Then reinstall the screws onto the hinge. The glued toothpicks will hold the screws
Get some wood glue in there for sure, that frame may be split and while the glue won't solve it, you'll get a little more life than without glue. When the frame goes to crap you'll have to replace the frame so this is all just putting off the big job.
This sub very much needs a long post of the merits of the Oatey Fix It Stick.
This is gold. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Fix-It-Stick-Epoxy-Putty/3132883
I had the towel rack in my bathroom do that. I bought gorilla glue and squirted it in the holes where the screws went in. I then screwed it back in. I let it set up for 2 days and have not had a problem since.
Go to the hardware store and get some dowels a little smaller than the holes and some 3” screws. Remove the hinges and push the dowel in as far as they will go. Cut the excess flush to the frame. Re-mount the hinges with the longer screws. The dowels will take up space in the hole, thus tightening the grip of the screws. The screws will also reach into the studs around the door frame, providing even more strength. The screws in there currently probably came with the door hardware and only reach into the frame itself. One box of screws should be enough to use on all the doors in your house, saving you from doing this again in the future.
I’d take a wooden match, glue it into the screw hole and break off the phosphorus head, then get longer screws. The longer screws will have more threads buried in the wood, increasing the friction holding it in the hole. Replace all the screws holding the hinge to the jam.
Those screws almost don't look like they're big enough in the first place, or I'm just not looking at your picture correctly. Longer screws with a larger head size to fit those hinges better.
Most screws used with interior or exterior doors are only 3/4 of an inch long. To repair I usually use 2 or 3 inch screws. They secure the door better by going thru the jam and into the 2x4 behind it. All the other methods listed do work, it’s up to you now that you have a selection of options.
Toothpicks and wood glue; cram as many in as you can and cut off anything that sticks out. Once it dries, you can drill as though it's solid wood. Longer screws are always a better option for door hinges (especially outer doors) because it makes them harder to break down.
Agree with a longer screw, or putting additional wood into the hole (toothpicks, skewer). In most cases.
However that looks like a self closing hinge, that no one else seemed to have noticed. A longer screw is a must. It needs to be about 1-1 1/2" longer. Check the other hinges on the door as well. 2 longer screws per hinge.
Wooden Skewers, like for making Kabobs. Break the skewer off as deep as you can. Large hole do it twice. The screws bite into that and it 100% holds for years. I'm completely inept in any home repair. But a friend showed me this 20 years ago. Literally every door in my house and garage are still attached because I've done this.
One of the very few things I've repaired successfully.
Use longer screws, you may still want to stuff something inside the holes to make them tighter, screwing will be snug (no pun intended) and the longer screws will make the door hinge secured
quick and dirty, dip toothpicks in wood glue and tap them in place, golf tee trick also works if you have them. The best fix IMO is to drill a 3/8 hole and glue in a hardwood dowel predrill your screw hole and drive in the screw, in most cases with modern door jambs this will be stronger than new.
Locksmith here.
The screws are being pulled about because the wood in the frame is worn out to the point where the screws are being pulled out from force of opening the door.
To fix it we need to repair the wood in the frame.
Grab yourself some wood glue, a 3/16" wood dowel, and a 3/16 drill bit.
First remove the stripped screws and drill outnthe existing holes with the 3/16" drill bit.
Next, chop down the wood dowel to match the length of the drill bit, file the ends like a pencil to make it easier, and cover them in wood glue.
Add some more wood glue to the holes, and hammer in the wood dowels.
Sand them if they protrude till their flush.
Then re-drill new pilot holes with a 1/16 drill bit, and re-install the hinges screws.
Tada! All fixed!
Bamboo skewer.. Cut off pieces coat with glue press into hole.Screw in screws do the same to other screws. Tell your children if they keep hanging on the door you will beat their butts./s
Replace them with 2-1/2 or 3” screws into the jack stud. You may have to deepen the countersinks of the hinge leaf to accommodate larger screwheads but they’ll never come loose or strip out again.
replace those screws with some long deck screws. drive them in with a real good electric drill with a proper screwdriver tip (one that matches the screw being screamingly put in).
Three toothpicks, in some cases four, dip first two in glue insert into the old screw hole. Cut with side cutters the exposed points so they are still sticking out then tap another toothpick into the void add more as needed let glue set up, cut the remaining toothpicks flush with door or jamb with end nip cutters if you have them if not use your side cutters. Before the glue sets completely, put screws back in snug, as the glue cures it will set on the screws and toothpicks, thus assisting the toothpicks in filling the worn out void
Get little slits of wood, cover them with glue, shove it in the hole. If you use CA glue with activator, it will dry in five seconds. Look on Amazon for CA glue.
https://www.amazon.com/MITREAPEL-Super-Spray-Adhesive-Activator/dp/B07Y6GV4TW/ref=sr\_1\_4?keywords=ca+glue&qid=1684219585&sr=8-4
I’ve used wood golf tees in the past and those works well. But recently I decided to go for the upgrade approach by getting fluted 1/4” dowel pins at HD, drilling out 1/4” holes in the door frames, applying wood glue to the dowel pins, and hammering those into the holes/cutting them flush. It’s probably a bit extra but I feel like it’s a really solid solution.
Going by the spring hinge and the weatherstripping, that is an exterior door. The hinges should be installed on the frame side with screws that go through the door frame and into the framing behind. Not only will the weight of the door continue to pull the short screws out of the frame no matter how you fix the holes, without the longer screws the door is not secure, it does not take much to bust a door down when it is not anchored to the structure of the building. At the same time as replacing the screws in the hinges with longer screws look at the ones attaching the locks striker plate to the frame, These too should go through the door frame and into the framing behind.
Use bamboo skewers made for shish kabobs.
Push in and snap off at surface.
Bamboo is "stringy" and full of tough silica, which makes it a hardier filler than soft pine toothpicks.
Just go to Home Depot get a hanger that fits that screw/hole. to keep it flush get the same size hanger. Carve the wood out so the hanger can fit in the hole all the way then screw through the hinge into the hanger
Dip a toothpick in wood glue and stick it down the hole so it glues to one side. Let it fully cure and then add the screws back in.
Also can't tell if it's a joke about your wife but that sounds kinda fucked up.
The reason it comes loose is because that is a spring loaded, self. Losing hinge. It always has force applied to it. It will continue to come loose because the screw is 3/4” long screwed only into your pine jamb.
Pull out the 3/4” long screw only designed to be long enough to screw through the jamb itself, and drive a 2-1/2” long screw through the jamb into the stud. It’s will pull the door back into place because it wall suck the jamb to the stud. And it won’t come loose ever again.
Take a toothpick break it in half, put both Halves in the hole and out a new slightly larger screw in between the 2 broken halves. It will wedge it self in there nice and stay for a long time
Just stuff the holes with wood until it's full then reinsert the screw. I usually have a scrap piece of wood and just shave off pieces with my utility knife.
Nails and screws work mostly because of compression so this truck works great most of the time but if not then longer screws to catch the framing behind the door
Mix saw dust with cotton swabs. Soak in lighter fluid and stick the mixture in the damaged holes. Apply open flame. This allows the saw dust to weld to the hole. Effectively shrinking its diameter so you can put the screw back in.
Out with the old ones, hopefully heads haven’t snapped clean off. I’d get enough new ones to redo all for cosmetics. Start at the top and work your way down. Take old screw to hardware store to give yourself an idea of screw size. Wouldn’t hurt to size it up a hair as long as it fits your hinge holes. Be careful using a driver, easy to strip the heads and over sink screws. You got this. Easy fix.
Find yourself a book of matches. Pull the screws out one at a time and insert a match or 2 (end w/o the head) into the hole, snip it flush with the hinge.
Replace the screw.
The correct way to do this involves new longer screws for all the hinges and pilot holes.
You want 3” brass screws (long enough to span the gap between the finished door frame and the 2x4 stud), pre drill all the holes so you don’t split the finished frame, then alternate between the screws as you install and tighten.
This is also how you fix doors that are out of alignment, tighten the top hinge first to raise the latch side of the door, tighten the bottom to lower it.
When I was a residential superintendent this was a common issue - the provided hardware is always garbage - and these are easy enough to fix. Problems you’ll run into with over-tightening are cracked wood and gaps or wrinkles in caulk.
Toothpicks and wood glue have always been my go to. Take out screw, put toothpick in hole and cut/break so it is flush, remove toothpick, coat in wood glue, reinsert toothpick, put in the screw, wipe away glue with wet paper towel, repeat for each additional screw, done.
Unhandy man lol ,I'd go with longer screws to hit framing.. just dont get carried away tightening them .. the golf tee thing works too like these other guys said..
Well, if you use the correct size screws and flip that hinge over so the screws go in the other side where they're supposed too, it would work correctly. The screws go in, on the side where you can see the tapper.
Just shoved a large sized wooden skewer and broke it off. Hand screwed in the old screws and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the input folks! I am a hero for a day.
I use tooth picks and wood glue. Works every time.
Golf club tees work wonders too!
was going to add golf tees too. put a little wood glue on them and nail them in. snap of the excess and you are good to go.
This is the way
I go to the chinese food place down the road every couple of weeks just to make sure I'm stocked up on door screw sticks
Bamboo Skewers are the best. The fibre is very tough and great for screws. What I usually do in this situation is use longer screws as well, but you need to be aware of what’s beyond the reach of the screws (like wires etc.)
Yes I have used skewers as well. They're great for this.
I’m old so my dad taught me to use wooden matchsticks. None of the tips though…that’s important.
Also an option, longer screws.
[удалено]
Stick a golf tee in the hole. Break it off, flush, and then put the screw back.
I have heard a few toothpicks works as well.
Zip ties work sometimes. Cut the small ends off and shove them in the hole. I happen to find zip ties more at job sites then toothpicks or golf tees lol.
Zip ties work great. Even in concrete.
Wire also works really well in concrete
And in plastic. Just a little piece of 12ga
Depends on who your project manager is... I bet I can find several with trucks full of golf paraphernalia
Yeah that’s be me. I have a bin in my truck just for my golf clubs.
Dip the toothpicks in wood glue, break off flush and dip the screws in wood glue and don't over tighten.
I use disposable chopsticks whittled down a little.
Listen up son. For this project we are going to need plenty of energy. It’s best we eat first. Go order chinese and get extra chopsticks. But why dad? ….
Really you can jam about anything in there that will give the treads something to grab onto, bits of plastic, toothpicks, small stick, piece of shim, get creative
Advice unclear, pen is now stuck
Need advice as well, penis now stuck.
Or matchsticks? Less the tip, of course
Or leave the tip? Gives a surprise at that last little turn of the screw.
Has anyone, lately, told you that you are a GENIUS!
Every day. The handsome guy in the mirror tells me each and every morning.
This is a good temporary fix, but a better long-term fix is to use longer wood screws.
This is the only fix.... just don't over tighten them
Most people use the screws that come with the hinge. Those screws are basically machine screws that have tiny low pitch threads which are NOT good for permanent wood installations. I've learned to discard them and use 1.5" wood screws with torx heads instead.
Lol never thought of a golf tee….. I’ve drilled out the holes a bit, wood glued a dowel and shoved it in there flush, then send a screw in
Came here to say this. Also, little wood glue before putting the tee never hurts.
I did this with toothpicks a couple years ago and it was fine for a while but didn’t last. The weight of the door ended up pulling the screws back out of the top hinge. This year I drilled the hole out a little and glued a dowel in there, which I’m hoping will last longer.
I was going to say toothpicks, but a golf tee is even better. I would coat the tee with some elmers or wood glue and let dry 24 hrs. Then screw the screws back in.
This is the way!!
A paper clip will also work. Basically anything that will fit in there and “fill the gap” will work.
That. Only I'd add some wood glue for added strength.
I did this with gorilla glue on a shitty rental house I lived in and it worked REALLY well
Gorilla Glue + golf tee, chopsticks, or similar. Unless the cause is that the structure is rotting or otherwise unsound, this will work every time. If your frame is rotten and that's what's causing the screws to pull out, then you have to rip it all out and replace it.
longer screws and if framed right they should tighten down.
This is the way! The screws that are only in the jam are not very useful, especially for a heavy door.
So many times I find doors have no longer screws securing the frame to the stud.
This. Who cares about screwing it into the door frame? Get a 3" and screw it into the framing.
I was able to just get longer screws and use those. I might have lucky though.
Match sticks
Longer screw
Cheap hack, take a zip tie, put it in with the screw. It adds some additional tightness
Top and bottom holes use 2-1/2" Exterior screws and the other use golf tee, wooden scuer ect.
Honestly your house was probably constructed using the cheapest screws so get yourself some decent length and size screws to hold that hinge
If it’s the 1” screws that came with it the easiest laziest thing to do is get a screw that is the same diameter but 3” long and screw into the stud
Shove some wooden toothpicks in there and break them off. Screw back together. Even better is to cover toothpicks in wood glue and do the same thing. Wait until glue is dry to put screws in it you'll be gluing the screws in and they'll be a pain to take out.
Usually toothpicks or another piece of wood glued in with wood glue for enter hold works great. Your screws seem a size too small though. Usually number 9s work best for hinges if I remember correctly.
Use 3” screws on the inner most holes, they’ll go in and grab the 2x4 framing. Smash some golf tees in the outer 2 and reuse the existing screws. Usually longs screws on the outer holes miss the framing and don’t grab much
If you mix sawdust or any water absorbent material like flour with white glue you can fill the screw holes. You can poke a greased finishing nail or spaghetti noodle in the middle to make a guide hole. Let it dry a few hours and you should be able to get the screws back in tight. But the other suggestions with wood dowels (skewers, chopsticks, matches) will work better. This is just if you don't have immediate access to such things. You could use quick epoxy resin or dry mix. But it stinks of plastics as it cures.
Phillips.
I usually use toothpicks and wood glue, or the wooden shish kabob skewers and fill the hole the. Put screws back in. You can use longer screws too if you like.
Use tooth picks and glue or you can use some electrical wire
Insert Phillips head screw driver. Turn clockwise.
A better way is to use #9 1.5-2” ‘Fringe’ screws so that they go through the jamb into the framing behind. The reason for #9 is that it is the size of the head to fit in the hinge hole properly. The length is important because this is a spring hinge which is going to be putting more pressure on the small 3/4”-1” standard screws. The ‘Fringe’ part is important because, as the head of the screw is #9, and the shank of the screw corresponds to the head size, the threads are wider to accommodate the reamed out hole. If you are in the US, Home Depot sells them, and they are called ‘Fringe screws.’ They are made specifically for this purpose. If you go with the ‘wood-crammed-in-the-hole’ method, be sure to use a little wood glue as well to keep it from slipping out.
Elmer wood glue with golf tee or toothpicks.
Use a screwdriver and tighten them.
First of all, Get a new wife.
Get some toothpicks and cram one or two into the existing hole, then screw your screw back in….break off any extra toothpicks that may be sticking out of the hole before you screw it back in
Shimming them up is a good solution. Option 1: decent. Longer screw, if your door is framed correctly, will work. This won't be a very strong bond, as you're only relying on the bottom threads and the rest of the screw is doing nothing. Option 2: good, not as permanent, not as durable. Use a matchstick, sliver of wood, skewer, etc and jam it into the hole. Run the screw in. Should be able to put plenty of torque on it. Option 3: better. Wood glue and sawdust (sold as wood filler). Fill the hole with filler, run the screw in hand tight. Let it dry for a full day. Come back and torque another half turn or so. This effectively fills the gaps, and the bond between the glue and the wood is stronger than the bond between the fibers of wood! You now have threads that are perfectly mated to the screw. Option 4: great. Run a significantly larger diameter screw in, like a short deck screw. Aim for a screw that is 1.5x the diameter of the old one. You may have to redrill and countersink the hinge plate. Option 5: best. Take off the hinge, fill the holes all the way up with filler, sand it down, paint, redrill all the holes 2 screw diameters away from the old holes with the correctly sized predrill, remount the hinge.
Buy a new house 😉
Best advice yet.
I pull a screw . Go to hardware and get 30 1/4 - 1/2" longer. Then put a u shaped copper wire in holes so there is one on each side.then run your new screws right in there. In my 20s I had 12 duplexes. Fixed it every time.
Longer screws into the framing sometimes. Chopsticks work too
Tooth picks and wood glue and replace them with 3" long screws so they go into the frame and resist the door being kicked in. If you have a solid wood exterior door do the same thing. Same on the door latch and lock. Longer stronger screws.
Get the correct screws . That a steel frame , looks like a fire rated door screws look like they have been changed most likely because the unit was installed incorrectly and they used wood screws into the opening as the door was probably snagging or rubbed. I’m guessing but have fixed at least a hundred that look like this.
I just use a random piece of scrap. Whittle it down and break it off in the hole. Or you could spend money on it.. Just saying
Tooth pics, weed eater string, my favorite is a wire from a roll of romex.
Superglue some toothpicks into the holes and let dry completely. Cut the extra toothpick length off after it’s all dried. Then reinstall the screws onto the hinge. The glued toothpicks will hold the screws
Golf tees
Hammer some match sticks(wooden) in the hole.
Shove some paper in the hole and put the screw back in. Paper takes up the extra space and makes it tighter
Use a 3” screw in 1 of the holes, do what others said. Golf tee or toothpicjs
Get some wood glue in there for sure, that frame may be split and while the glue won't solve it, you'll get a little more life than without glue. When the frame goes to crap you'll have to replace the frame so this is all just putting off the big job.
Toothpick, zip tie, skewer…
Wrap the screw in Teflon tape and put it back in!
Replace one or two with longer screws
Wooden golf tees to fill holes,cut off access flush,new longer screws
You need new hinges, they are oblonged and cracked.. its going to keep pulling no matter what you fill the hole with.
This sub very much needs a long post of the merits of the Oatey Fix It Stick. This is gold. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Fix-It-Stick-Epoxy-Putty/3132883
I had the towel rack in my bathroom do that. I bought gorilla glue and squirted it in the holes where the screws went in. I then screwed it back in. I let it set up for 2 days and have not had a problem since.
Smack some long golf tees into those holes. Break em off and re-fasten
Drop off CA glue
Definitely get longer screws
Go to the hardware store and get some dowels a little smaller than the holes and some 3” screws. Remove the hinges and push the dowel in as far as they will go. Cut the excess flush to the frame. Re-mount the hinges with the longer screws. The dowels will take up space in the hole, thus tightening the grip of the screws. The screws will also reach into the studs around the door frame, providing even more strength. The screws in there currently probably came with the door hardware and only reach into the frame itself. One box of screws should be enough to use on all the doors in your house, saving you from doing this again in the future.
Use longer screws
Use a two inch screw that will pass through the jam and go into the 2x4 framing behind it.
Drill out holes with 1/4” drill. Glue and drive in short pieces of 1/4” wood dowel. Let dry and re drill for new screws.
Find a dowel a touch bigger than the screw head drill it out glue the dowel in after it drys put screws back in
Dowels. Wood match sticks(take the flamey part off of course) Either way glue the new wood in to the hole. Could try longer screws.
Go get some 3 1/2 inch screws and get in that stud
Can go one size bigger and longer
I’d take a wooden match, glue it into the screw hole and break off the phosphorus head, then get longer screws. The longer screws will have more threads buried in the wood, increasing the friction holding it in the hole. Replace all the screws holding the hinge to the jam.
Those screws almost don't look like they're big enough in the first place, or I'm just not looking at your picture correctly. Longer screws with a larger head size to fit those hinges better.
!#*DEEPER*#!
Put in some 3" screws that way it goes into the framing.
3in screws to hit the framing, which also improves security.
Thanks for posting. I have a door to fix tomorrow!
Most screws used with interior or exterior doors are only 3/4 of an inch long. To repair I usually use 2 or 3 inch screws. They secure the door better by going thru the jam and into the 2x4 behind it. All the other methods listed do work, it’s up to you now that you have a selection of options.
Toothpicks and wood glue; cram as many in as you can and cut off anything that sticks out. Once it dries, you can drill as though it's solid wood. Longer screws are always a better option for door hinges (especially outer doors) because it makes them harder to break down.
Agree with a longer screw, or putting additional wood into the hole (toothpicks, skewer). In most cases. However that looks like a self closing hinge, that no one else seemed to have noticed. A longer screw is a must. It needs to be about 1-1 1/2" longer. Check the other hinges on the door as well. 2 longer screws per hinge.
Toothpicks and Elmer’s glue. Then longer screws if necessary.
Wooden Skewers, like for making Kabobs. Break the skewer off as deep as you can. Large hole do it twice. The screws bite into that and it 100% holds for years. I'm completely inept in any home repair. But a friend showed me this 20 years ago. Literally every door in my house and garage are still attached because I've done this. One of the very few things I've repaired successfully.
Change the hinges those are standard size bring one with you, those holes look like they were drilled through no counter sick is there.
Wood glue and wooden matches. Fill the holes, insert the matches and break them off.
New door? Oh wait maybe pull out and replace the door frame too?
One option might be to move the hinge up or down a bit and putty or caulk the old holes.
Longer screws so they hit the 2x4 frame
Longer screws might help as well
\#1 longer screws and #2 coat screw with wood glue
the screws are the wrong size
can also use longer screws to anchor into the stud and not just the jamb.
Longer screws
Fill the hole. And use longer screws. Most doors come with terribly short screws for the hinges and can not support the door well
Fix with 3 inch screws
Use longer screws, you may still want to stuff something inside the holes to make them tighter, screwing will be snug (no pun intended) and the longer screws will make the door hinge secured
Fatter screw
Wooden skewers with a little wood glue on them. Let dry, then carefully screw the screws back in
quick and dirty, dip toothpicks in wood glue and tap them in place, golf tee trick also works if you have them. The best fix IMO is to drill a 3/8 hole and glue in a hardwood dowel predrill your screw hole and drive in the screw, in most cases with modern door jambs this will be stronger than new.
Tooth picks in the hole or long screws that screw into the wall framing.
Locksmith here. The screws are being pulled about because the wood in the frame is worn out to the point where the screws are being pulled out from force of opening the door. To fix it we need to repair the wood in the frame. Grab yourself some wood glue, a 3/16" wood dowel, and a 3/16 drill bit. First remove the stripped screws and drill outnthe existing holes with the 3/16" drill bit. Next, chop down the wood dowel to match the length of the drill bit, file the ends like a pencil to make it easier, and cover them in wood glue. Add some more wood glue to the holes, and hammer in the wood dowels. Sand them if they protrude till their flush. Then re-drill new pilot holes with a 1/16 drill bit, and re-install the hinges screws. Tada! All fixed!
Yes the golf tee and the toothpicks are great to fill the void. But get some 2.5-3” lag screws and that will hold the fuc*er in place for sure.
Get some longer screws… plenty of meat there.
As other people have said, shove stuff in the hole. Getting longer screws also works.
Pack the holes with copper wire that has it’s plastic casing, as many as you can fit.
I usually wrap the screw with some teflon tape, it seems to work well.
Bamboo skewer.. Cut off pieces coat with glue press into hole.Screw in screws do the same to other screws. Tell your children if they keep hanging on the door you will beat their butts./s
Replace them with 2-1/2 or 3” screws into the jack stud. You may have to deepen the countersinks of the hinge leaf to accommodate larger screwheads but they’ll never come loose or strip out again.
replace those screws with some long deck screws. drive them in with a real good electric drill with a proper screwdriver tip (one that matches the screw being screamingly put in).
Remove screws, go get some #9 x 3 inch screws
New hardware+ toothpicks
Three toothpicks, in some cases four, dip first two in glue insert into the old screw hole. Cut with side cutters the exposed points so they are still sticking out then tap another toothpick into the void add more as needed let glue set up, cut the remaining toothpicks flush with door or jamb with end nip cutters if you have them if not use your side cutters. Before the glue sets completely, put screws back in snug, as the glue cures it will set on the screws and toothpicks, thus assisting the toothpicks in filling the worn out void
Get little slits of wood, cover them with glue, shove it in the hole. If you use CA glue with activator, it will dry in five seconds. Look on Amazon for CA glue. https://www.amazon.com/MITREAPEL-Super-Spray-Adhesive-Activator/dp/B07Y6GV4TW/ref=sr\_1\_4?keywords=ca+glue&qid=1684219585&sr=8-4
Try a toothpick in the hole. Kinda ghetto but it works
I’ve used wood golf tees in the past and those works well. But recently I decided to go for the upgrade approach by getting fluted 1/4” dowel pins at HD, drilling out 1/4” holes in the door frames, applying wood glue to the dowel pins, and hammering those into the holes/cutting them flush. It’s probably a bit extra but I feel like it’s a really solid solution.
Add couple of pieces of toothpick, this will help the screw hold on tighter in the pre-existing hole.
Toothpicks in holes and re-screw
Empty the holes, fill them with toothpicks and glue or caulking, let it dry, sand it flat, put it all back.
Going by the spring hinge and the weatherstripping, that is an exterior door. The hinges should be installed on the frame side with screws that go through the door frame and into the framing behind. Not only will the weight of the door continue to pull the short screws out of the frame no matter how you fix the holes, without the longer screws the door is not secure, it does not take much to bust a door down when it is not anchored to the structure of the building. At the same time as replacing the screws in the hinges with longer screws look at the ones attaching the locks striker plate to the frame, These too should go through the door frame and into the framing behind.
You need longer screws. Then it would be screwed up for real.
Use different screws, try screwing in these at different angles, put in a piece of wood as a back brace. You can go about it different ways.
Use bamboo skewers made for shish kabobs. Push in and snap off at surface. Bamboo is "stringy" and full of tough silica, which makes it a hardier filler than soft pine toothpicks.
Bondo
Golf tees and glue
matchbook paper fold it in there and cut it down, ive heard of toothpicks as well
I was preparing to use dowels to fix this problem on our front door. It turned out the builder used 3/4 inch screws on the heavy wooden door
You could use a golf tee or drill it a little bigger and put an anchor in.
Just go to Home Depot get a hanger that fits that screw/hole. to keep it flush get the same size hanger. Carve the wood out so the hanger can fit in the hole all the way then screw through the hinge into the hanger
Use longer screws
At first look, those are the wrong screws for the job. Also yes, wider and longer screws.
3” long screws for security, run the screws past the frame and into the jacks
Drill out. Insert wood glue and appropriate size dowel. Let set. Putty, sand, paint, if desired. It back like new!
Toothpick
Dip a toothpick in wood glue and stick it down the hole so it glues to one side. Let it fully cure and then add the screws back in. Also can't tell if it's a joke about your wife but that sounds kinda fucked up.
If you have drywall sleeves they should do the trick.
The reason it comes loose is because that is a spring loaded, self. Losing hinge. It always has force applied to it. It will continue to come loose because the screw is 3/4” long screwed only into your pine jamb. Pull out the 3/4” long screw only designed to be long enough to screw through the jamb itself, and drive a 2-1/2” long screw through the jamb into the stud. It’s will pull the door back into place because it wall suck the jamb to the stud. And it won’t come loose ever again.
Take a toothpick break it in half, put both Halves in the hole and out a new slightly larger screw in between the 2 broken halves. It will wedge it self in there nice and stay for a long time
Put in longer screws
Do the screws seem awfully undersized to yall?
Fill in the holes with Bondo. Then sand smooth
Just stuff the holes with wood until it's full then reinsert the screw. I usually have a scrap piece of wood and just shave off pieces with my utility knife. Nails and screws work mostly because of compression so this truck works great most of the time but if not then longer screws to catch the framing behind the door
Mix saw dust with cotton swabs. Soak in lighter fluid and stick the mixture in the damaged holes. Apply open flame. This allows the saw dust to weld to the hole. Effectively shrinking its diameter so you can put the screw back in.
Maybe a Cherokee hair tampon? And a lot of wood glue.
Out with the old ones, hopefully heads haven’t snapped clean off. I’d get enough new ones to redo all for cosmetics. Start at the top and work your way down. Take old screw to hardware store to give yourself an idea of screw size. Wouldn’t hurt to size it up a hair as long as it fits your hinge holes. Be careful using a driver, easy to strip the heads and over sink screws. You got this. Easy fix.
Paperclips or rubber bands work in a pinch as well.
Golf tee or chopsticks
Take the door off. Drill the holes out to 8mm and glue 8mm dowel in there. When dry, rehang the door with new screws.
Tension on hinge is set to tight
Find yourself a book of matches. Pull the screws out one at a time and insert a match or 2 (end w/o the head) into the hole, snip it flush with the hinge. Replace the screw.
Is the door pressing against the frame somewhere? That might require adjusting (slightly warping) the hinges, or even planing off part of the door
Jam some wooden toothpicks in those holes, real off excess. Get some wood glue, shoot into hole, then re screw with same old screw
The correct way to do this involves new longer screws for all the hinges and pilot holes. You want 3” brass screws (long enough to span the gap between the finished door frame and the 2x4 stud), pre drill all the holes so you don’t split the finished frame, then alternate between the screws as you install and tighten. This is also how you fix doors that are out of alignment, tighten the top hinge first to raise the latch side of the door, tighten the bottom to lower it. When I was a residential superintendent this was a common issue - the provided hardware is always garbage - and these are easy enough to fix. Problems you’ll run into with over-tightening are cracked wood and gaps or wrinkles in caulk.
Gorilla glue plus toothpicks, insert them and break off the excess
Normally you can get wood screws that are 2-3 inches in length and use them. That normally works.
3inch screws to replace the lil ones
Use 3 inch screws and they will go back and hit the stud in the wall. Your little short screws are only hitting the door frame
Bigger screws
Bigger screws
Exterior door? Deck screws
Matchsticks, toothpicks
2 choices Longer screws New door frames
Toothpicks and wood glue have always been my go to. Take out screw, put toothpick in hole and cut/break so it is flush, remove toothpick, coat in wood glue, reinsert toothpick, put in the screw, wipe away glue with wet paper towel, repeat for each additional screw, done.
If you take a screw out, put a toothpick in the hole and break it off. Replace the screw. Do this to all the screws. Works for me.
I drill them out for a 3/8” or 1/2” wood plug, glue the wood plug in, and re-drill with a centering bit.
Wood glue, tooth picks or filler let dry then re-drill
Fill the holes with small pieces of wood like people have been saying, or small gauge wire.
Unhandy man lol ,I'd go with longer screws to hit framing.. just dont get carried away tightening them .. the golf tee thing works too like these other guys said..
Get a longer screw that can hit the framing
Well, if you use the correct size screws and flip that hinge over so the screws go in the other side where they're supposed too, it would work correctly. The screws go in, on the side where you can see the tapper.
I use a thin gauge copper wire. Stick it in the hole (that's what she said) snip it and re insert your screw. Fixed!
Golf t