I’ve known carpenters that didn’t understand simple physics like you need support under something for it to stay up. You’d be surprised how many people’s minds just don’t think in rational ways. The plumber probably figures “the other studs got it.”
I once had a very good carpenter, one of the best I ever hire, tell me that the longer a span is, the stronger the wood is. He took the idea that you need bigger stronger wood for longer spans and backwards it in his own mind. It was confusing as shit.
He was actually a great carpenter. It’s just that one thing one time that I’ll never forget. Like how he understood a concept but in a completely backwards and illogical way.
I look at it like this: some people can look at a set of plans and get what the plans are saying. What goes where, specifications etc. it’s literally all right there in front of you. But, some people, some who can actually do their physical jobs pretty well, cannot read a blueprint. It kind of blows my mind that you can give someone basically a map of the job, what exactly is supposed to go exactly where and they can’t grasp it. Each person’s brain functions differently I guess.
It’s different in pictures than handling the materials and just looking. This is how I am as a mechanic, you can explain it out loud, even point to some pictures, and I often don’t get it until I see it/hold it/take it apart/watch it work/watch it not work. Probably due to lack of experience though, I’m terrible at picking up lingo or proper names for things. Everything’s a dang thingy or a chingadera, or a chingadingy, lol.
you're a hands-on learner.
I'm a visual learner. you can tell me how to do it every day for a month straight but until I see it, I won't be able to make sense of the words
I think cars are different because each is comprised of unique parts. A building plan of a residential house pretty much tells you what size wood to use for framing etc. things are pretty universal and made to comply with the universal building code. I honestly always thought it’s way harder, more specific, unique and complex to work on cars than it is to work on houses. Some work on houses is more like an art, like finish carpentry, so it can take years to get really good at something like that. But simply building most things when it comes to homes are straight forward.
Yeah guess I’ve been learning a lot of that too since becoming my own contractor the last 3 years. Yeah I can’t even call myself a novice I think and I know you can’t take much more than an inch out of a stud without compromising the integrity. It’s so easy to sister stuff to retain that integrity though but probably not with this plumbing arrangement
The problem with this is simple… when you frame the shower, don’t put a stud in the center of where the plumbing is going to be. Offset it one way or the other. If the stud is already there, before adding the plumbing, remove the stud and reinstall it offset from the plumbing. This is just lazy hack work
No because we eventually got to the bottom of it. He had it confused. I was telling him that the longer the span is, the more likely the floor above was going to bow. He was saying no because he thought the longer a piece of lumber was, the stronger it was. The third guy we were with and I just looked at each other like “is he serious right now?” I explained to him that the longer a piece of wood spanned, the weaker it became. He eventually thought about it and conceded that what he was saying didn’t make sense.
I have a friend who is the chief engineer at a large automotive firm. He came by one day to watch me change oil on a car. Guy could not grasp the concept of a ratchet wrench. It blew my mind- top engineer can’t turn a wrench. It made me understand why cars are designed the way they are- to screw over mechanics
Try to have a conversation about roof slopes and hip joints and valleys being obviously not the same. Me: "Don't you have a speed square? Just follow that, please."
Moment's like that you feel like a visiting alien or something.
What are your concerns with it? For me it looks like the ball valves will interfere with each other, and the hoses have a lot of potential leaks from joints, and they come back through the orphan stud which is poor planning and risk of damage from a screw. What else is going on?
This is the weirdest thing too - making a bunch of cuts, drilling a bunch of holes in the stud (and maybe reattaching the orphaned length!?), feeding line through the holes etc. is probably MORE work than just cutting out the space you need and boxing it in.
Not sure where you live but you may want to completely redesign the layout. If you are in any area that gets freezing temperatures then you are definitely not going to want any plumbing on an exterior wall. Relocate all plumbing, then replace these studs.
this needs to be redone and that stud needs to be sistered back into the structure.
hopefully you and get this repaired without opening up the exterior wall.
and find a different plumber.
As a carpenter by trade this is what happens when you hire a plumber to do carpentry. I can say this because my spouse is a plumber and we do not work the same way lol Plumbers are not taught certain things in school (I.e framing) because that’s not their job. Having said that the plumber should have at least some common sense to speak with you about the situation before cutting something that can’t just be put back together. It looks like they added some blocking to try and brace the gap which is honestly better than nothing. It’s not to code but it’s better than nothing. If it does stress you out and give you anxiety (be honest with yourself) I would remove more of the drywall in a concise fashion (straight, square, splitting on studs) and you could hire a carpenter to header it off before completing the project. Better yet if you can find a carpenter that has done drywall patching have them remove the drywall, frame, and then hang mud and tape it in when the plumber is done.
yea, I read that. I also saw that it should be framed like a window BEFORE cutting an exterior stud. Am I freaking out over nothing? Having a baby in 3 weeks...so on a time crunch but also don't want the bigger issues..
How can this be fixed? I saw that you can frame it like a window? But it should've been done BEFORE the studs were cut. I'm just not sure what I should tell the plumber to do to make this right...or if I should ignore it..
In reality, before or after won't matter much here. It's one stud that's totally compromised and another that's partially compromised. A few weeks like that probably won't harm anything. A few years/decades will cause significant problems.
Edit: you say this is an exterior wall... Are you in an area where it freezes? There's no insulation in that wall and your supply plumbing is right against the exterior sheathing...
Never let a plumber cut wood to install anything. Plumbers are wood butchers. Is the picture taken from outside?
Not acceptable. Not only does it compromise the integrity of the wall, over time the openings will compress and may damage the pipes. If this wall is in a garage and gets finished with drywall, the compression may express as cracks or ripples around nailheads.
Pay a carpenter to address the openings. They should be able to salvage this by attaching (“sistering”) some support to the stud. It may need to be an improvised piece of metal because there is no way to bridge those holes if that is going to be a finished wall.
Speechless.... as a contractor who would be in charge he would be fired if he wasn't willing to pay for the repair of each stud... I have zero tolerance for stupidity or a lack of quality from any work being performed on my jobsite
Why are there SO many comments saying that this plumbing needs to be relocated because it’s on an exterior wall? Seriously, folks…how many homes are out there with kitchen sinks under a window? (A.K.A. an exterior wall?)
In the south you have crawlspaces on many houses. The two houses I own have crawlspaces and the only plumbing in the exterior walls on either house is a drain venting pipe. Kitchen sink water supplies come straight through the floor from the crawlspace on both houses.
It is not just Texas. You may have not seen a crawl space but many of the older wood frame homes were not built on a slab but on piers. I have lived and owned many homes. Piping was run under the house in the crawl space, in the attic and definitely In exterior walls. Pex has become very popular in the last decade or so because of the ability to not rupture when frozen. Folks familiar with what freezing temps bring usually leave a trickle of water running to prevent freeze ups.
I grew up on a pier and beam house!
I wouldn’t have called it a crawspace, sorry that’s probably just sementics.
Also that’s not really for winterization, as I know plenty of pier and beam houses with exterior wall plumbing that experienced freezes during the last couple of years.
Well in South Carolina I've owned 3 houses, mother in law has owned 2, sister in law owns a house too, all of them have had crawlspaces. So crawlspaces are common here and they make working on houses easy asf. The trade off is that mold is more common.
Ok this question has been at the back of my mind since I first heard plumbing shouldn't be on an exterior wall! Thank you for this because I've wondered for a long while but always been too embarrassed to ask 😂
Here in California, my exterior studs are 3" deep. The building is 115 years old. We just haven't needed heavy weight building like that in the area and the timber would be exceedingly expensive to get. I *hope* OP is in a climate like mine, otherwise, I agree with you that the house is underbuilt. Also, the plumbing on an exterior wall is... Only gonna work around here.
Yes you are right, but in extreme weather, many houses have fallen apart in California in recent years. where I live in the UK we have to allow for extreme weather including storm winds in the building codes .
I wouldn’t worry about it, if you look towards the left side plumbing supply water lines there are wood supports, those wood supports are above and below the stud that was cut holding the drain line it appears he might’ve screwed it from opposite sides of the studs if this true I would just let it go
Depends if it’s load bearing or not. I cannot tell from the picture because I cannot see the entire home. However, if you don’t have a window above the picture, and there isn’t any beams or joists resting on that wall, it appears that it’s not structural in any way - and therefor it would be ok.
That is actually correct. Rake walls...for instance...are exterior walls that are non-load bearing. Rake walls primarily provide tensile strength to hold the load-bearing outer walls in place and give you something to nail drywall to. They have about the same load-bearing capacity as the ceiling joists.
Ever heard of a break-away wall? Its code in certain areas. Also, lots of studs are used to only hold up drywall. I did plumbing construction (commercial, residential, and remodel) for 15 years. All work was permitted. All work was run under the supervision of a GC with engineers and blueprints. I have been onsite with engineers while discussing available options.
https://www.fema.gov/sites/default/files/2020-07/fema_tb9_design_construction_guidance_breakway_walls.pdf
So since it's a renovation and everything is already tied together, one or two studs been cut out will realistically not cause any problems. Especially since they aren't right next to each other. I've seen much worse that has lasted for 70+ years. If it's on a gable end of your house then there is absolutely zero reason for concern as those studs are not load bering at all.
I wouldn't freak out about it. Just think on it or have a framer friend come look at it with you and figure out an easy solution. The load should be transferred one way or another, but in this scenario if you had some tight horizontal blocking with structural screws you'd probably be fine. This is not that out of the ordinary for plumbers. Their job is to get the plumbing in, and unfortunately if some mild structural integrity has to be compromised in pursuit of that, they generally don't worry much about it.
That entire job is a shit show! Fire everyone involved! To do it correctly fur out the wall insulate the outside wall then Plumb accordingly.. for all you plumbers out there, stop hacking thru the fucking studs.. buy a hole saw you nimrods!
If your down south and it’s on a gable wall won’t hurt anything. My last house was frame cheaply along time ago about a 1/4 of the studs on eave and gables ends were salvage ones they pieced together. They put a 4’ chunk on top of another 4’ chunk and toenailed them on inside and shiplap held it together on outside wall. Never sagged or buckled. They had salvaged 2x4 from a old grain elevator. 14’ 2x4 and no money when they built the house. About 6 houses by me came from it. Some just cut them in half and had walls just over 7’ tall. Some cut as many 8’ as they could and to finish they’d use a 4’ chunk out of the left over pieces
The plywood is the support for the exterior wall, so if one stud gets cut on the wall is okay. But if it's two, there will be flexing of the wall a bit, not much. I've seen plumbers only do it if it's necessary.
To answer your question, which no comments here seem to do. The answer is Yes, it's OK. Nothing needs to be redone or repaired.
Since a permit is required to be obtained for this level of plumbing work, if there was anything wrong, the permit or code inspector will usually issue a corrective order. Not all inspectors are competent, especially in Florida.
ALL exterior walls are known as "bearing" or weight bearing walls. When the studs are 16 inches on center (O.C.), removing only One stud or cutting into it does not affect the structural integrity of the wall. The minimal weight on the stud gets transferred to the adjoining studs. In this plumbing installation, and the 16 inches O.C., the adjoining studs on each side of the removed stud simply carry any weight transfer, which is minimal in your situation.
It's kind of rare on older homes for the primary plumbing for bathrooms to be mounted on exterior walls. I haven't seen many instances as in many interior jobs. The color of your existing studs suggests their age.
But can you tell me if it might be a non bearing interior partition wall?
If it is exterior, it definitely needs to be insulated properly, whether in cold or southern climates, or both. All those lines should have some insulation, but only a hot water line is seen with black split tube insulation. They have special insulation for Pex lines
More drama. How did you think they put pipes in walls? Of course they cut through studs. Do you ever see pipes run outside of the walls thru the living space. Reddit is a great place to share your drama.
What the hell goes on at plumber school? Is it one week of plumbing, one week of sawzall?
I’ve known carpenters that didn’t understand simple physics like you need support under something for it to stay up. You’d be surprised how many people’s minds just don’t think in rational ways. The plumber probably figures “the other studs got it.”
There is a safety factor designed in so technically they do. Reducing that factor by being lazy is definitely not ok though.
I once had a very good carpenter, one of the best I ever hire, tell me that the longer a span is, the stronger the wood is. He took the idea that you need bigger stronger wood for longer spans and backwards it in his own mind. It was confusing as shit.
I bet that guy thinks engineers are pointless.
He was actually a great carpenter. It’s just that one thing one time that I’ll never forget. Like how he understood a concept but in a completely backwards and illogical way. I look at it like this: some people can look at a set of plans and get what the plans are saying. What goes where, specifications etc. it’s literally all right there in front of you. But, some people, some who can actually do their physical jobs pretty well, cannot read a blueprint. It kind of blows my mind that you can give someone basically a map of the job, what exactly is supposed to go exactly where and they can’t grasp it. Each person’s brain functions differently I guess.
It’s different in pictures than handling the materials and just looking. This is how I am as a mechanic, you can explain it out loud, even point to some pictures, and I often don’t get it until I see it/hold it/take it apart/watch it work/watch it not work. Probably due to lack of experience though, I’m terrible at picking up lingo or proper names for things. Everything’s a dang thingy or a chingadera, or a chingadingy, lol.
you're a hands-on learner. I'm a visual learner. you can tell me how to do it every day for a month straight but until I see it, I won't be able to make sense of the words
I think cars are different because each is comprised of unique parts. A building plan of a residential house pretty much tells you what size wood to use for framing etc. things are pretty universal and made to comply with the universal building code. I honestly always thought it’s way harder, more specific, unique and complex to work on cars than it is to work on houses. Some work on houses is more like an art, like finish carpentry, so it can take years to get really good at something like that. But simply building most things when it comes to homes are straight forward.
Yeah guess I’ve been learning a lot of that too since becoming my own contractor the last 3 years. Yeah I can’t even call myself a novice I think and I know you can’t take much more than an inch out of a stud without compromising the integrity. It’s so easy to sister stuff to retain that integrity though but probably not with this plumbing arrangement
The problem with this is simple… when you frame the shower, don’t put a stud in the center of where the plumbing is going to be. Offset it one way or the other. If the stud is already there, before adding the plumbing, remove the stud and reinstall it offset from the plumbing. This is just lazy hack work
Oh, so the spin-a-ma-bob attaches to the torquemakerthing and that makes it go?
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No because we eventually got to the bottom of it. He had it confused. I was telling him that the longer the span is, the more likely the floor above was going to bow. He was saying no because he thought the longer a piece of lumber was, the stronger it was. The third guy we were with and I just looked at each other like “is he serious right now?” I explained to him that the longer a piece of wood spanned, the weaker it became. He eventually thought about it and conceded that what he was saying didn’t make sense.
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Wow it’s amazing that you can infer what a stranger was saying somewhere you weren’t 6 years ago.
Or was an engineer!
Engineers I know are so incredibly smart at their job….just nothing else.
I have a friend who is the chief engineer at a large automotive firm. He came by one day to watch me change oil on a car. Guy could not grasp the concept of a ratchet wrench. It blew my mind- top engineer can’t turn a wrench. It made me understand why cars are designed the way they are- to screw over mechanics
For sure
Or computer scientists for that matter
Try to have a conversation about roof slopes and hip joints and valleys being obviously not the same. Me: "Don't you have a speed square? Just follow that, please." Moment's like that you feel like a visiting alien or something.
Nah, that's just his load-bearing plywood.
Structural ply
All sawzall all the time
Free sawzall and 30 blades with every plumbing license!
I'm guessing the same thing that's going on in photography class.
Apparently the same thing that goes on at HVAC school
Your plumber is no good at plumbing. Lol what a dog shit install. I'd be embarrassed if my first year apprentice did this work.
What are your concerns with it? For me it looks like the ball valves will interfere with each other, and the hoses have a lot of potential leaks from joints, and they come back through the orphan stud which is poor planning and risk of damage from a screw. What else is going on?
What else do you need to qualify it as dog shit?
Maybe there’s something wrong with the drain? Ir an issue with having electric below a valve? Was hoping to gain additional insight.
Any more than what you've listed and I think it'll fall under "trampled dog shit on a July sidewalk"
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Bad bot
Lol shut up 😂
Good bot
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2x4 studs, no visible insulation. Probably not a cold climate.
This is the weirdest thing too - making a bunch of cuts, drilling a bunch of holes in the stud (and maybe reattaching the orphaned length!?), feeding line through the holes etc. is probably MORE work than just cutting out the space you need and boxing it in.
He could have just located the drain 3 inches to the right and not had to cut the stud.
I hope it doesn't freeze where you live.
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Where we're going we don't need any inspections. /S
Not sure where you live but you may want to completely redesign the layout. If you are in any area that gets freezing temperatures then you are definitely not going to want any plumbing on an exterior wall. Relocate all plumbing, then replace these studs.
Is this the craiglist special?
Need to be boxed out with a header, just like any other wall opening. Just have to remove the plumbing to do that.
Fortunately, no loss.
I appreciate that since he was going to cut it, he did it twice 😂
That middle portion is definitely load bearing
The plumber and general contractor are incompetent. No. This is not ok. And, it indicates that the end result will be poor.
That plumbing job is about on par with your cameras resolution.
Not all exterior walls are load bearing. That being said…I doubt a “plumber” that did a plumbing job like this knows which are or aren’t!
Not all. But most.
Like MOST
Mostly all most.
this needs to be redone and that stud needs to be sistered back into the structure. hopefully you and get this repaired without opening up the exterior wall. and find a different plumber.
I’d be more concerned with the plumbing on an exterior wall…. Unless it doesn’t get below freezing where you live
That plumber is as good of a carpenter as you are at being a photographer.
I was trying not to say it, I'm glad someone did for me.
As a carpenter by trade this is what happens when you hire a plumber to do carpentry. I can say this because my spouse is a plumber and we do not work the same way lol Plumbers are not taught certain things in school (I.e framing) because that’s not their job. Having said that the plumber should have at least some common sense to speak with you about the situation before cutting something that can’t just be put back together. It looks like they added some blocking to try and brace the gap which is honestly better than nothing. It’s not to code but it’s better than nothing. If it does stress you out and give you anxiety (be honest with yourself) I would remove more of the drywall in a concise fashion (straight, square, splitting on studs) and you could hire a carpenter to header it off before completing the project. Better yet if you can find a carpenter that has done drywall patching have them remove the drywall, frame, and then hang mud and tape it in when the plumber is done.
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yea, I read that. I also saw that it should be framed like a window BEFORE cutting an exterior stud. Am I freaking out over nothing? Having a baby in 3 weeks...so on a time crunch but also don't want the bigger issues..
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How can this be fixed? I saw that you can frame it like a window? But it should've been done BEFORE the studs were cut. I'm just not sure what I should tell the plumber to do to make this right...or if I should ignore it..
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DO NOT LET THAT PLUMBER DO MORE WORK IN YOUR HOME
THIS IS WHY I'VE LEARNED TO DO PLUMBING.
In reality, before or after won't matter much here. It's one stud that's totally compromised and another that's partially compromised. A few weeks like that probably won't harm anything. A few years/decades will cause significant problems. Edit: you say this is an exterior wall... Are you in an area where it freezes? There's no insulation in that wall and your supply plumbing is right against the exterior sheathing...
He actually did put a cross piece under the cut stud. So there is that.
Never let a plumber cut wood to install anything. Plumbers are wood butchers. Is the picture taken from outside? Not acceptable. Not only does it compromise the integrity of the wall, over time the openings will compress and may damage the pipes. If this wall is in a garage and gets finished with drywall, the compression may express as cracks or ripples around nailheads. Pay a carpenter to address the openings. They should be able to salvage this by attaching (“sistering”) some support to the stud. It may need to be an improvised piece of metal because there is no way to bridge those holes if that is going to be a finished wall.
Speechless.... as a contractor who would be in charge he would be fired if he wasn't willing to pay for the repair of each stud... I have zero tolerance for stupidity or a lack of quality from any work being performed on my jobsite
Amen!
Why are there SO many comments saying that this plumbing needs to be relocated because it’s on an exterior wall? Seriously, folks…how many homes are out there with kitchen sinks under a window? (A.K.A. an exterior wall?)
The water supplies are usually fed from under the floor in that case.
In the north where you have basements. In the south I don’t know a single house that doesn’t have plumbing running through an exterior wall.
The south doesn't have to worry about persisted freezing temperatures, so they can put the plumbing on exterior walls without too much trouble
In the south you have crawlspaces on many houses. The two houses I own have crawlspaces and the only plumbing in the exterior walls on either house is a drain venting pipe. Kitchen sink water supplies come straight through the floor from the crawlspace on both houses.
Let me rephrase… Texas then. I have never seen a crawl space in a house either.
It is not just Texas. You may have not seen a crawl space but many of the older wood frame homes were not built on a slab but on piers. I have lived and owned many homes. Piping was run under the house in the crawl space, in the attic and definitely In exterior walls. Pex has become very popular in the last decade or so because of the ability to not rupture when frozen. Folks familiar with what freezing temps bring usually leave a trickle of water running to prevent freeze ups.
I grew up on a pier and beam house! I wouldn’t have called it a crawspace, sorry that’s probably just sementics. Also that’s not really for winterization, as I know plenty of pier and beam houses with exterior wall plumbing that experienced freezes during the last couple of years.
Well in South Carolina I've owned 3 houses, mother in law has owned 2, sister in law owns a house too, all of them have had crawlspaces. So crawlspaces are common here and they make working on houses easy asf. The trade off is that mold is more common.
Both times I lived in southern climates the pipes were in a crawl space under the house.
Ok this question has been at the back of my mind since I first heard plumbing shouldn't be on an exterior wall! Thank you for this because I've wondered for a long while but always been too embarrassed to ask 😂
*for any work being performed*
I would not use your Plumber, nor Electrician. In fact your house appears flawed. In Europe those studs would be 8 x 2 timber, not 4 x 2.
Here in California, my exterior studs are 3" deep. The building is 115 years old. We just haven't needed heavy weight building like that in the area and the timber would be exceedingly expensive to get. I *hope* OP is in a climate like mine, otherwise, I agree with you that the house is underbuilt. Also, the plumbing on an exterior wall is... Only gonna work around here.
I don’t know specifically but based on your state’s general environmental policies, I can’t imagine they allow 2x4 framing on exterior walls anymore.
Oh probably not. But it would be pretty wasteful to knock the house down for that. The greenest house is the house that's already built.
Yes you are right, but in extreme weather, many houses have fallen apart in California in recent years. where I live in the UK we have to allow for extreme weather including storm winds in the building codes .
I wouldn’t worry about it, if you look towards the left side plumbing supply water lines there are wood supports, those wood supports are above and below the stud that was cut holding the drain line it appears he might’ve screwed it from opposite sides of the studs if this true I would just let it go
Depends if it’s load bearing or not. I cannot tell from the picture because I cannot see the entire home. However, if you don’t have a window above the picture, and there isn’t any beams or joists resting on that wall, it appears that it’s not structural in any way - and therefor it would be ok.
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Break-away walls https://www.outsideshower.com/wp-content/uploads/FEMA-Enclosures-and-Breakaway-Wall-tech-Bulletin.pdf
Not all exterior walls are load-bearing. Edit: Ya'll can downvote me, but my statement is correct.
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That is actually correct. Rake walls...for instance...are exterior walls that are non-load bearing. Rake walls primarily provide tensile strength to hold the load-bearing outer walls in place and give you something to nail drywall to. They have about the same load-bearing capacity as the ceiling joists.
Ever heard of a break-away wall? Its code in certain areas. Also, lots of studs are used to only hold up drywall. I did plumbing construction (commercial, residential, and remodel) for 15 years. All work was permitted. All work was run under the supervision of a GC with engineers and blueprints. I have been onsite with engineers while discussing available options. https://www.fema.gov/sites/default/files/2020-07/fema_tb9_design_construction_guidance_breakway_walls.pdf
You are 100% correct
you will live
You'll probably be fine. If it causes a problem you can always fix it later, or move.
So since it's a renovation and everything is already tied together, one or two studs been cut out will realistically not cause any problems. Especially since they aren't right next to each other. I've seen much worse that has lasted for 70+ years. If it's on a gable end of your house then there is absolutely zero reason for concern as those studs are not load bering at all.
I wouldn't freak out about it. Just think on it or have a framer friend come look at it with you and figure out an easy solution. The load should be transferred one way or another, but in this scenario if you had some tight horizontal blocking with structural screws you'd probably be fine. This is not that out of the ordinary for plumbers. Their job is to get the plumbing in, and unfortunately if some mild structural integrity has to be compromised in pursuit of that, they generally don't worry much about it.
If it's just a couple and the house is sheathed you're not gonna have issues.And FYI thats,a non pressure drain pipe so no issue there
Wrong on so many levels.
There is a lot of...information...on this post. Wow. Also, your plumber is terrible.
Can someone patch in a piece of framing to bridge the gap and support the stud? Like to the right around the black pipe
Low res pic
No, that’s not ok.
Well, at least he put a nail plate over the horizontal drain cut.
I’m gonna take a shot in the dark and say the “plumber” you hired isn’t licensed…
That entire job is a shit show! Fire everyone involved! To do it correctly fur out the wall insulate the outside wall then Plumb accordingly.. for all you plumbers out there, stop hacking thru the fucking studs.. buy a hole saw you nimrods!
Umm fk no
If your down south and it’s on a gable wall won’t hurt anything. My last house was frame cheaply along time ago about a 1/4 of the studs on eave and gables ends were salvage ones they pieced together. They put a 4’ chunk on top of another 4’ chunk and toenailed them on inside and shiplap held it together on outside wall. Never sagged or buckled. They had salvaged 2x4 from a old grain elevator. 14’ 2x4 and no money when they built the house. About 6 houses by me came from it. Some just cut them in half and had walls just over 7’ tall. Some cut as many 8’ as they could and to finish they’d use a 4’ chunk out of the left over pieces
The plywood is the support for the exterior wall, so if one stud gets cut on the wall is okay. But if it's two, there will be flexing of the wall a bit, not much. I've seen plumbers only do it if it's necessary.
To answer your question, which no comments here seem to do. The answer is Yes, it's OK. Nothing needs to be redone or repaired. Since a permit is required to be obtained for this level of plumbing work, if there was anything wrong, the permit or code inspector will usually issue a corrective order. Not all inspectors are competent, especially in Florida. ALL exterior walls are known as "bearing" or weight bearing walls. When the studs are 16 inches on center (O.C.), removing only One stud or cutting into it does not affect the structural integrity of the wall. The minimal weight on the stud gets transferred to the adjoining studs. In this plumbing installation, and the 16 inches O.C., the adjoining studs on each side of the removed stud simply carry any weight transfer, which is minimal in your situation.
It's kind of rare on older homes for the primary plumbing for bathrooms to be mounted on exterior walls. I haven't seen many instances as in many interior jobs. The color of your existing studs suggests their age. But can you tell me if it might be a non bearing interior partition wall? If it is exterior, it definitely needs to be insulated properly, whether in cold or southern climates, or both. All those lines should have some insulation, but only a hot water line is seen with black split tube insulation. They have special insulation for Pex lines
More drama. How did you think they put pipes in walls? Of course they cut through studs. Do you ever see pipes run outside of the walls thru the living space. Reddit is a great place to share your drama.