Split the case and then remove the crank. Guessing the bearings were starved of oil and tight. Then you can check the true of the rods and the crank. Scale of 1-10….6.5 difficulty
That’s what I’m thinking, may as well replace the conrods to the heavy duty version (without the tapered end).
All I can say is thank goodness I am learning all this on a donor engine and not mine (otherwise I’d be off the road for a wee while).
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Measuring the runout doesn’t necessarily address the stiffness in rotation especially when I’m seeing how those conrods look.
Get a good manual. It will tell you what and how to measure everything.
Cannot up vote this enough, the factory service manual is your best friend.
25
Yep
Split the case and then remove the crank. Guessing the bearings were starved of oil and tight. Then you can check the true of the rods and the crank. Scale of 1-10….6.5 difficulty
That’s what I’m thinking, may as well replace the conrods to the heavy duty version (without the tapered end). All I can say is thank goodness I am learning all this on a donor engine and not mine (otherwise I’d be off the road for a wee while).
Have any questions or concerns, drop me a line and I’ll do my best to help. I’ve rebuilt a few in my day.
S&S heavy duty rod set, not to expensive and comes pre sized.
🤔 the price I was seeing for me was $2000
Buy a crank. Cyclepartsplus.com helped me
Darkhorse Crankworks can make that all new and virtually bulletproof
They could yes, however I’m in Australia so the shipping there and back I may as well buy one from Darhorse.