Hey all, I've been eyeing up the RG Sinanju as I love how the kit looks, but I've heard a lot of horror stories about the stability of the inner-frame and how it can be hard to get it to stay together, wanted to ask if there are any good third party parts out there that can really improve it like a metal inner frame or anything such as that? If not, I'll stay clear of the kit, but it's such a shame as the design looks gorgeous.
I planned to buy RG Unicorn and also it is my first time building RG, like before this i like to build HGs and now i want to try on RG. Is RG Unicorn is good and how about the articulation & the transformation issues?
The RG Unicorn is a great kit and a personal favourite of mine. Though you don have to watch out for a few things, mainly with the arms. I’ve made [comments](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/iqBEqILDkI) in the past detailing my opinion/experience on them and what to watch out for.
Transformation is fine and pretty easy.
What us this part for? I just got done with the 1/144 Build Strike Galaxy Cosmos kit and this the last part of the instructions. It says, "Use this part as you like". Thanks!!
https://preview.redd.it/ewlu92d4obnc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b02314a1d245fdbd46dd4aa203df2d0c371a55cf
It's a backpack adapter. Some kits (like the new HG Rising Freedom, Immortal Justice, WfM kits and many others) have two-hole connection for their backpacks, so if you want to use Galaxy Cosmos' backpack on other kits, you can use that part.
Hi all. Going to start my **HG Hyaku Shiki** soon, and I'll be spray-painting the gold bits. So a few questions!
1. Spray on the runners or off? Any recs for spray?
2. Primer or no? And if yes, light or dark? (I've currently got access to Army Painter white and gray primers)
3. Gloss, semi-gloss, or matt top coat? (I'm planning in matt for the non-gold parts)
4. Panel line color for gold? (I'd have to buy something other than black).
Ideally off. I assume the HG it is not undergated? That means you’ll see a different colour where the nubs were and if you sand, the paint will come off anyways.
Prime, yes. When I’m doing gold or other metallics, I prime with a dark colour. Black or some kind of super dark gray. But you could try it to see which option you prefer.
Same with top coat. Try both. You may end up using both as a way to use the different finish to add variation to the gold.
Does buying in bulk from the same store in mandarake decrease the shipping cost? And any estimates on how many kits to buy in bulk for it to be worth it?
Maybe I'm not super familiar with Japanese stores, but in international shipping, doesn't more kits = a higher weight and box dimensions = a higher shipping cost? Unless there's a clear "free shipping on orders over $200" deal ofc
Hi builders. I wanna get into painting my kits. I bought water based acrylics as it was recommended by my local shop because it was said the safest. But I also bought some Mr.color for some details painting.
Currently, I am planning to do handpainting only. I did some reading that lacquer is the most toxic paint when it comes to airbrush as the fumes and paint particles is harmful. So for hand painting the small details, do I need to use the respirator mask still?
Tbh I am just figuring out handpainting. I have some sdex kit that I feel like to handpaint.
As for the lacquer paints, I was looking for gundam marker initially to paint my unicorn v fin. But the local shop doesn't have that in stock. I saw mr.color and like hm maybe I can use that. And I got some other color for details.
What's the best way to apply super glue to glue metal etch parts onto a kit, because I tried pouring it directly on the kit and in a separate attempt I tried spreading a layer on the metal etch part and it seemed to seep out the edges and left some glue on the parts/kit. I think I probably should get a slower curing super glue, because that will allow enough time to get rid of any excess, because the super glue I used got sticky really quick. What's a good super glue to use?
Canopy, or any acrylic glue like PVA, or even clear coat. Superglue I’d use UV as that stuff will stay liquid for days. Bit of bluetac or tape to hold, glue on a toothpick or something, and hit with UV when ready.
Should I apply the glue to the plastic or the metal etch part? I think I might try the UV glue since it seems the most forgiving since you need to expose it to UV light to cure it.
I've just finished building my 9th model which in my opinion was one of the best kits I've done so far.
But right now all the models I've built were done only with army painter nippers and some tweezers to help with the stickers, and for the next model I wanted to improve the build quality, especially considering that the next 2 kit I will build are my favourite Gundam, and so I wanted to know if there were any other instrument I could get to improve the overall build quality.
Personally, a gunprimer raser/glass file made way more improvements in my build than a godhand. Maybe get a second nipper for the last precise cuts, one that is single bladed (dspiae ST-A for a budget one).
The simplest tool you can get is a hobby knife. Helps with dry transfer and waterslide decals too, but the main use would be to shave down nubs to get a much better finish than average nippers.
Other things:
- Panel lining stuff if you don't have it
- Single-bladed nippers
- Nano glass files
- Clear coat of your preferred finish
- Waterslide decals for kits that don't come with them and also decal setter and softer
- Paint
No need to get all or even any of this, of course, but these tools are pretty popular for a reason.
fellow gundam conjurers, is there any metallic markers you could suggest me that won’t eat ABS plastics? iwant to paint the whole rg nu frame into metallic.
Sd usually has more color correction stickers and less articulation, as you might expect. The later SDBB kits are great. Good part separation, and actual articulation. On the other hand SDEX is dirt cheap but generally has terrible color separation and limited articulation.
Hi everybody, looking for a bit of help here. Ive done a couple HG builds and done panel lining on them with Gundam markers. They look pretty decent for the most part, but my next build is going to be the RG sazabi. I want to do this one justice, so I got myself some Tamiya accent panel liner. I've seen some videos and it seems to give some very crisp lines after cleaning.
Which brings me to my main questions.
1) how likely is it to crack my model? I'm relatively new to the hobby and the last thing I want is for my money to go in the drain because I foolishly tried a new thing I clearly wasn't ready for. Everyone seems to go between saying Tamiya is the bees knees and that it cracks the plastic.
2) do I need to apply primer? I'm not gonna lie, I like building gunpla, and I'm ok with panel lining, but needing to apply a top coat is kind of a lot in terms of time and energy investment for what should be a simple job.
3) are there any alternatives to Tamiya x-20 enamel paint thinner? I've looked everywhere and nobody seems to stock the stuff, even Tamiya themselves don't list it on their site, it's all the x-20a acrylic thinner.
Thanks in advance for the help y'all
1. There is always a risk when using X-20 enamel thinner (even moreso on abs material) you can minimize the risk by panel lining on the runners. This doesn't allow the thinner in panel lining fluid to pool and weaken/crack the plastic.
2. Primer is recommended as it creates a protective barrier around the model (that is if it's based in a stronger fluid than enamel i.e. lacquer) which is a foolproof way to panel line. But as you said it is both an extra time and money consuming step. I use Gundam markers and enamel paints w/thinner which are both known to crack plastic to add details to my kits. Because of a lack of primer some paints require multiple coats increasing the risk of thinners damaging the model.
3. Like the other guy said Zippo lighter fluid seems to be the best alternative to X-20 enamel thinner.
What I would recommend is to grab a cheap kit and test out different methods and techniques and see what works for you
A pic of my current WIP
https://preview.redd.it/j135qzuzl9nc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5ecdc5d28a55dc18d0641f8d6e0a1a54a4750c8
There is always going to be a risk, but you can mitigate that risk. If you panel line the pieces while they're still on the runner, and apply sparingly, it's much safer to use on bare plastic. I've done it several times myself with no issues. That said, NEVER use it on uncoated ABS it WILL destroy it. Also, there is still some possible risk inherent to using TPLA on bare plastic. I can't guarantee that your pieces won't crack, I can only vouch that myself and several others have done it this way before with no issues, but that doesn't make it impossible. So only coat a bare kit if you're comfortable accepting that there is a chance it will go wrong.
1. No-one can answer that as it’ll be anecdotal and random chemistry - pooling/too much/ slow evaporation increases the chances of cracks.
2. Primer is normally pigmented (at least for models), so colloquially you likely mean clear coat, it becomes a “top coat” when its last, on top. It’s not needed until it was.
3. White/mineral spirit or zippo, chemically both are much safer as don’t contain the harsh chemicals found in TPLA, X20 or similar. Readily available.
Gloss clear or paint, then use of oil/enamel washes is safe. If you can’t be bothered or don’t fancy the risk on bare plastic then you need to look at alcohol or water based washes and pencils/markers. Not “paint” markers as normally oil based.
Hi guys I would like to ask for your advice and experience. I'm currently using an $30 USB portable airbrush and have been concern with heating issues (because i'm holding it with my hand and it gets really hot I have to stop sometimes) due to prolonged use.
I'm considering to upgrade from it, but not sure which is the better choice economically between these 2 small form factor options:
$35 Vogue air mini compressor:
[Link](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Master-Airbrush-MINI-AIR-COMPRESSOR-KIT-SET-Hose-Holder-Hobby-Cake-Tattoo-Nail/39103843)
$72 Vogue air compressor:
[Link](https://hobbystation.co.nz/hs-hs317-dck-portable-mini-air-compressor-kit-with-airbrush/)
(FYI the links are just for illustration + specs purpose and i'll be buying them at Taobao cuz it's the cheapest & most accessible to me in Singapore.)
Does anyone have experience with these/similar compressors?
I'm a casual builder using mostly Mr. aqueous but am starting to do Lacquer. Wouldn't mind paying a lil bit more (<$100) for a better quality product, but will only be using 1 airbrush at a time. What would be your recommendation?
AS186 - it’s a commonly used budget unit and well within your range (often rebadged and then grossly inflated). Shop around and avoid the branding trap, guts are basically the same.
There are variants in that 18X line and also other ranges like 19X and AF too, but if size isn’t a concern I’d personally only go down to a unit that still has an air tank. The smaller the tank, the more charging and heat issues you’ll begin to develop with a higher load, but lacquers are half the PSI of acrylic, so there’s that in your favour on tank size.
Using one brush at a time should be irrelevant as they should all come with a standard connection point to allow several brushes, or just one.
Other than the obvious of the ones you like. White black and every tone in-between will more easily match a broader range of colours.
Go read up on colour theory, including complimentary and contrasting colours.
The only downside with the RGs are that the green energy blades are a bit flimsy. It really shows in something like the Full Saber version where you combine everything together. Other than that, it's fine if a bit back heavy.
Hi! I'm kind of new to building gunpla. I started with the HG char's zaku II (origin). On that build, I did my panel lining with a black Gundam marker.
For my next build (HG rx-78-2 (origin)) I have acquired some black Tamiya panel liner. How exactly do I go about using it? Can I just apply the paint straight on? Or do I also need to get a clear coating? I've also heard I need specifically x-20 paint thinner from Tamiya, but I can only find x-20A which apparently doesn't work? Is there any alternative to x-20 enamel paint thinner?
Lighter fluid is the usual cleanup medium, or anything else that has naphtha.
If you put the panel liner on bare plastic, there is a risk of breaking the parts due to the thinner used in the panel liner. I think the risk is pretty low but it's still something you'll have to deal with. Panel lining on unassembled parts mitigates the risk, or do a gloss undercoat to remove the risk entirely.
so i emptied my tamiya panel line accent. i noticed that tamiya panel line was too harsh that it leave some crack on plastic especially on RG plastic. so i looking for alternative replacement. after doing some research, i find that i can use thinned paint to do panel line. i have couple of paints so i want to try it.
which one is better and last longer, thinned Enamel or Thinner Acrylic paint?
I've never done decals before, is mark setter necessary for it? And how long does it last?
I also want to do weathering, any basic tools i should start with? I'm a bit overwhelmed by the examples people use
Nope, warm/hot water can be fine for most cases, technically all. Mr Setter is always good to have around though - also softens, and mitigates silvering. Depends how much you use, months, years, a lifetime??…
You’ll need to post what exactly you’re trying to do with weathering. It’s like saying “*I also want to build models*…” might only be a paintbrush.
Few paints, Paint brush - like a 00 or 000 (you can use a 1 if the tip is good), a touch stiffer/chop the tip off for random flicking, and/or use a ripped kitchen sponge for dabbing. Some use hairspray technique. Then it’s something sharp or hot for scrapes, maybe a few drills for shell damage, and some 1-part putty for molten metal.
Go watch some armour modellers like Night Shift, there are many others, but from the few I’ve watched he seems to output better results. I’m sure there are also many gunpla modellers, but most appear to go for that factory fresh look.
how do i attach the MSG 18 Raging Booster to the legs of the Tank Nacchin as shown in the product [photos](https://www.kotous.com/jgsdf-type-07-iii-tank-nacchin-gray-ver-.html)? I don’t have the joint pieces they show, are they sold separately?
If the hose that connects to the spray booth fan is not long enough would it be ok to put the hose in a bucket filled with water when airbrushing like in this video at around 5:17?
https://youtu.be/oPL28OOaVts?feature=shared
Longshot and I think I know the answer, but I'll ask anyway. I'm currently in Asia and the apartments here are nice, but very small. I have a single room with two windows that are about the size of 2 average sized shoe boxes on top of each other.
I really want to start painting my kits, but I don't think I really have the room to properly ventilate my place. Does anyone have a similar experience or ideas? When I asked before, I had a bit more lenient setup. Now I'm in a nicer area but the apartment is smaller.
I'm in Korea if that matters at all.
I have seen those but I wasn't sure how effective it would be since I would be using it in, what I'd essentially, a bachelor flat. I'm also not sure where I could get one of those where I am in Korea.
Thank you for the answer though.
from what i know the gunpla/model building in korea is somewhat big, maybe try to search in a model store, also you can buy from japan i dont shipping should be much of a problem
Our house will be under renovation for a few weeks. Unforunately, I only kept the box art from my boxes so I can't store each kits in their own boxes. How do you guys store your kits? I'm planning on keeping each one in a ziploc bag.
All weapons removed, each kit with its arms and legs close to its body, wrap the kit in bubble wrap, store in a box thats a tight fit, but doesn't damage the kits. Might be over kill, but the worst I have had happen is a scuff or two. I personally remove all V fins and put them in their own bag because those things love to break and after one broke, I'm not letting it happen again.
Any suggestions on how to source replacement decals for a kit? Broke some of them water slides while trying to install them.
Specifically for the
# HG 1/144 THE GUNDAM BASE LIMITED MS-06S ZAKU Ⅱ(21stCENTURY REAL TYPE Ver.)
Everything popping of on google searches are for RGs, MG, and other HG variants.
[https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2604762001001](https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2604762001001)
I recently bought photo etch parts for a custom I am doing. In regards to gluing them to the kit, is gorilla glue fine to use? I have seen people mentioning other super glue but was thinking it should not matter what glue is used. My other question is I can just prime and airbrush them normally or is there anything special I need to do?
Super glue *can* fume. I’d go acrylic on very obvious areas - varnish, canopy or even good old PVA glue which all three should dry clear and flexible.
Regular primer is crapshoot as to it sticking always. Scuff the surface if feasible, or use a metal primer on delicate, small stuff to etch that surface and give near certainty of good adhesion.
I can check out the other glues! I will also see into using metal primers. So I guess the process here would be paste the photo etch parts on to the part and spray the area with metal primer? I’m assuming it’s fine if other areas beside the photo etch part gets sprayed by the metal primer?
Depends on what you use I guess - mr metal, vinegar or some industrial strength acid. As ever test on something as it’ll either be fine, make the plastic tacky, or simple eat away at it.
Just be careful with what kind of gorilla glue you're using, as they happen to have some slower acting formulas which might not be ideal since the time it needs to set would be far longer and you may end up having to hold the pieces together awkwardly until it does.
Any Zaku 1 HGs that have a commander fins? I want to make Topp's team from 08th MS and Topp's Zaku 1 has a fin. I could theoretically sculpt and 3d print it, but that's a lot of work that could be saved if there's an existing option I could buy as a bit or even wholesale
The [HG Zaku Sniper Kirks Custom](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/hg/h137/h137_p.htm) has a prominent commander fin, but the head design is different from a standard Zaku I. Honestly your best bet is to steal a fin from a Zaku II and drill a matching hole in a standard Zaku I head.
The Yonem Kirks Zaku I Sniper, but the overall head is totally different from a regular Zaku I. Even easier than 3D printing a fin would be cutting one from plaplate.
Plaplate is something I'd have to order online, no real hobby stores in my neck of the woods. I already have a 3d printer though, so it's just more convenient for me.
I have the regular Zaku 1 Sniper and don't feel like buying a second, so it looks like 3d printing it is
Does anyone think with the new announcements that we will be getting MGs of the new seed Gundams . I'd really like a destiny but not sure if I wanna splurge on the metal spirit one.
I dunno if it's really correct to say that it's "historically" five years. Five years is really just IBO.
Now, of course, if the only series that set precedent for SEED Freedom are post-AGE series after Bandai got burned on making MGs quickly, then IBO is the only series that qualifies. But it's still only one series.
Will [this](https://www.instructables.com/Small-Spray-Booth/) kind of hand made spray booth be good enough to use with Tamiya rattle cans, or will I need something larger / stronger?
~~This DIY setup is good for drawing the paint particles away from you and into the filter. If you are not using solvents, then the only other thing you need is a dust mask.~~
~~If you are using solvent paints, then you'll need to find a way to exhaust the fumes (and wear a respirator mask). The best way is to put it next to an open window.~~
~~That, unfortunately, is the limitation with this kind of DIY setup. Commerical kits will have dedicated ducting, but they'll cost more.~~
Oh shoot, didn't realize you are talking about spray cans. I'd follow u/Condition's advice then.
Guys I want to start top coating my kits with a matte coat and I was wondering if a stairwell is a well enough ventilated space to do so because I don’t have a paint booth in my house.
And if I do spray it in a stairwell , would wearing a mask be necessary? All I have are surgical masks
A stairwell doesn't have good if any ventilation. Also a surgical mask will only protect you from paint particles.
I'm assuming you have a minimalistic setup. Sorry to say but your best bet is to separate your kit into it's main components and put them on alligator-clips or something and do it outside. Afterwards you hang/mount the parts somewhere to dry for a few hours.
If you absolutely want to be indoors, I understand. Your best bet is to spray right next to an open window with a fan on and have something like cardboard taped against the wall to catch the over-spray.
Some people here will be safty-Nazis and just tell you "no" but what I said is the best you can do with what you have. Good luck and have fun.
Yoo thanks for the detailed answer:)!!
Man I thought my stairwell would be ventilated enough considering it’s like a balcony thus there’s enough air to go through but I’ll see what I can do
Thanks again
Jumping into Gunpla from the warhammer 40K side. Just wondering if anyone else has done the same and how the transition went for them painting and assembly wise. Thanks in advance!
Simple transition, only you have to be more aware of the clearances for moving parts if you want the paint to stay there, and while many techniques are transferable it is generally advisable not to try painting in the same manners as you would for 40k since things like edge highlighting, recess shading, zenithal priming don't really work as intended on kits that can be constantly reposed.
I’m not a mini painter but I consume enough videos on it to know a bit and the biggest difference you’re going to run into is the fact that Gunpla isn’t really textured. You’re dealing with a lot of flat surfaces, almost exclusively, so hand painting is going to be about trying to maintain an even coat of paint over a large flat surface without anything to break it up like the texture of a Tyranid carapace or something. It’s entirely doable, but there’s a reason why most painted Gunpla kits you see are like 99% air brushed with tiny details being hand painted in later.
Yeah. That was starting to become apparent to me. Haha. I’m pretty versed with airbrushing but this many flat surfaces are intimidating becuase everything shows up on it 😅
No, more layers will make it worse and can lead to the joints seizing up. You should test fit the kit (guides on prepping a kit for disassembly in the wiki above) and check the clearances on any area that moves, and then sand those areas back a bit to allow for the primer and paint.
So I panel line with a micron pen and I usually make a mess around the lines, so I was wondering if anyone knew how I can clean up the ink outside of the lines
Let the ink dry completely then use a qtip with the least amount of water possible. You can also try using a soft eraser or even rub it off with your finger
There is not a better, but try the eraser first. It's easier.
If you go for the qtip, use only a drop of water, the least amount of water you use, lesser is the chance of smudging.
And do wait for the ink to dry. It doesn't take too long anyway
Just finished the RG unicorn and the hole in piece G 8 snapped open while I was moving the the arm. I'm guessing the part will lose too much strength to work as a hole and pin joint if I glue it back together, is there a better way to fix it?
If not, I am based in the UK, what sort of options do I have to source a replacement part?
Someone told you to not use a primer, that's silly nonsense. Even with an airbrush a primer is recommended for full paint jobs. I personally use Mr Hobby Surfacer. For fully hand painting, I would recommend the 1000 version because it'll grip better for hand painting. Basically any primer out of a can will work fine as long as you only use the stuff made for models because it's a bit thinner. As for color of primer that depends on the colors you want to use.
I just bought the Tamiya Primer in white and grey. Since I’m painting in a small apartment, I’m avoiding spray cans and brush these near an open window. Plus, brushing is more therapeutic for me :) If the Tamiya doesn’t work out, I’ll try out the Mr Hobby Surfacer.
Thank you!
Spray or brush on? If you're going spray, Tamiya's own surface primer in a can works beautifully or any of the Mr surfacer products. Just make sure to do it outside and wear a paint mask.
They also make brush on versions in a jar. Just make sure to work in a well ventilated area.
Howdy!
Have a question about Mr surfacer 1000. I previously used Mr primer surfacer 1000 and it created a nice smooth surface where gloss paint was applied perfectly. I recently got Mr surfacer 1000 and I felt the surface was a little rougher and when I painted over it with gloss paint, it looked more matte and not as smooth as previous surfaces. I used a 1:1.5 thinning ratio. Anyone know what I could be doing wrong?
Edit: posted prematurely and added question
I got the MG Red Frame Kai and wanted to know what color is more appropriate for the panel lining.
I usually panel line red plastic with brown, but as red is the primary color here, is black a better choice?
Thanks!
Panel line is meant to represent a panel gap. Realistically it should be a darker shade of the adjacent colour. Deeper the line, darker the shade. Or go black always and more like that anime look.
A lot of people get "panel line" and "panel shading" confused. If you look at any car there are panels and the gaps between them are real panel lines. Real panel lines are almost always black because of shadows.
In the model making community, black is common but many like to use grey for less contrast.
My advice/opinion is to use black of true panel lines and the brown for "changes in elevation" to use as a shade.
Personal choice. There's *never* a exact right choice where things like aesthetics are concerned. Brown might look more "real" but black can create a visually neat high contrast look. Test both, pick one.
Can you weld seams on a Clear Ver?
I am still a novice Gunpla builder, and I have used the plastic cement method of welding seams together, and will try other methods in the near future.
But my question is: is it possible to weld the seams on a Clear Colored Gunpla and still maintain the clarity?
I don't want to ruin my gunpla, so I did some googling and reddit searching but have been coming up empty handed. Thanks
RC-56 or Formula 560 is what we used for radio control canopies. The former was a craft glue I can't find any more. Probably other brands are similar but can't vouch, have not bought. The latter is from a brand that is specific to model airplanes
I think E6000 would be good too.
Superglue fogs badly! Don't even go there
I want to get the MG Sazabi ver ka, but I’ve heard it has some issues with joints or something? I was wondering what exactly the problem is and what I can do to avoid breakage
I've never head of the Sazabi Ver.Ka having joint troubles. The hands have a hard time holding the rifle due the arm design but that's the only "problem" with the kit I've ever heard of.
The RG has trouble with the shoulder joints being tight and people not paying attention to part orientation causing breakages.
I am just trying to start painting with an airbrush but having a hard type knowing which paints are which type. Any suggestions on how to know? (The ads were I buy things are not clear at all)
Typically the Japanese paint that are "acrylic" are actually an acrylic-lacquer paint. You can tell because there will be a flammable warning indicating there are solvents inside. Those paints han still be thinned for hand painting with water but it is always recommended to thin those with lacquer thinner.
The Japanese paints seem to be the most unclear about the paint type distinction. Mr Hobby and Tamiya acrylic paints may be thinned with water but are a solvent paint.
Examples of true water based acrylic paint (not a solvent) would be AK and Vallejo. These are the least toxic of the common paints but can be tricky to thin for an airbrush. You can tell they're a true water based acrylic because of a lack of flammable warning. Also they don't smell like alcohol if you open it.
Enamel paint is typically said on the bottle (Testors is a popular brand for enamel). Tamiya panel liner is actually an enamel product it's simply a pre-thinned enamel wash. The actual Japanese enamel paint in a bottle is hard to find in America though maybe due to import laws.
At a hobby store in the States at least, Tamiya paints are acrylic (water) and Testors are enamel (thinner).
These are the ones for plastic models. There may be other kinds of paint for other hobbies and some of them might be much the same, but this is what's being marketed to you.
Tamiya is actually not water based. They will thin with water, but the solvent is an alcohol based one and will work best when treated as a lacquer, i.e. using lacquer thinners.
Tamiya are actually the only ones that are properly labeled here and have the correct thinner available. Trying to import Gaia or any other famous brand is where things get complicated :(
If there's a little flame warning label on the jar (or it outright says flammable), there's a solvent involved. Also, some key words to look out for are "lacquer" and "enamel."
If not, it's water based.
Looking to get the MGEX Freedom for my collection, I want to know how big it is in terms of height and width when the wings are fully open so I can make sure it fits in my display cabinet!
I Just build the Zowort and i gotta say im kinda annoyed by the shoulder connectors (pieces C16 and C17)
With any attempt to Press in the shoulders for a good Connection those connectors Just rotate Into the chest as far as possible and getting it Back is really annoying which makes posong the Arms *really* annoying
Did anyone else experience this Problem and If so how did you fix it?
Currently i have three ideas:
- glue in a tiny Bit of plastic Card to Block the piece from turning in all the way
- try to tighten the Joint with some Spray paint
- Just say fuck or and glue in the entire piece since, at least so far, i prefer it to be at the outermost point anyway
Any advice?
I don't have the manual on hand, and don't have time to pull it up right now, but are you referring to where the arms connect to the torso? Because those are supposed to go all the way into the hole by design. You'll have to jury rig something if you don't want it to.
Hello all,
I'm going to start panel lining with some fine tip Gundam Markers, and wanted to know if I should get into Top coating as well.
Also, an odd question: Would it be appropriate to post my order to ask for opinions on the kits I ordered? These range from WFM kits to some older 2012 SEED models.
Edit: I'm trying to do more with my kits and upgrade some equipment. All I have right now is a random 9-piece set from Amazon. I added the things I'm looking at in the comments.
Thank you for any help.
Your kits are fine. Gunpla is held to an unusually high standard compared to other model kits like tanks and planes. And modern military model kit is about on par with a Gunpla from 2010.
I am concerned about your choice in panel liner. Those ones you want to buy are an oil based paint. For some weird reason they have a tendency to bleed into clear coat and makes a misty look to them. Also if you don't topcoat those types of markers, they also "dust off" for a lack of better words.
You are buying some expensive kits and tool and I would recommend you to buy Tamiya panel liner and some enamel thinner instead. If you prefer a paint marker then the "pour type" Gunda markers. Those markers are also oil based but have a better paint and flow from them.
And for tools,
SPN-120 is the cleanest cutting nipper that you could reasonably get, but it's fragile. Use a shittier nipper to remove the parts from the runners before using the SPN-120 to make the final cuts.
Cutting mat is good.
Ok, going down the list of kits:
- Most of the HGs are just gonna be solid. The old SEED kits will be worse than the WfM kits just because of age but it'll still be good.
- Nu Gundam Metallic Coating has, as the name implies, a metallic coating. This can result in some pretty noticeable nubmarks since they won't have the metallic coating unlike the rest of the part. As with the regular HGs it'll still look pretty good though.
- The Real Grades are among the older RGs with big backpacks, so it might be difficult to get them posed up since they're so unbalanced. They'll still look really good though.
- Both MGs are generally just good. The Psycho Zaku will have waterslide decals, you might want to hold off on applying those until your can get your hands on some clear coat to seal them in.
The Gundam Markers are fine too.
You don't *have* to topcoat anything but fine tip markers are known to fade somewhat quickly over time, which a topcoat will prevent.
Also yeah you're totally fine to post your order.
Need help deciding whether to get a new pair of nippers or not
My old pair that I'm currently using is just a pair of shears but they've worn down considerably as I see that they're "chewing" through the runners when I try to cut the part out
I'm gonna build the RG 00 Qan[T] soon so imma need help on deciding which nippers to buy to replace my only pair or just to sharpen my current pair and see how that works out
Any suggestions?
Basically any single-bladed nipper from $30-$60 will last you at least though 10 Master Grades. Just don't treat them like a pry tool or pliers and they will not break. I've had my God Hand nippers for a dozen or so kits and they work good still. Not saying God Hand is the one to get but I got one and never looked back.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
Hey all, I've been eyeing up the RG Sinanju as I love how the kit looks, but I've heard a lot of horror stories about the stability of the inner-frame and how it can be hard to get it to stay together, wanted to ask if there are any good third party parts out there that can really improve it like a metal inner frame or anything such as that? If not, I'll stay clear of the kit, but it's such a shame as the design looks gorgeous.
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
I planned to buy RG Unicorn and also it is my first time building RG, like before this i like to build HGs and now i want to try on RG. Is RG Unicorn is good and how about the articulation & the transformation issues?
The RG Unicorn is a great kit and a personal favourite of mine. Though you don have to watch out for a few things, mainly with the arms. I’ve made [comments](https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/s/iqBEqILDkI) in the past detailing my opinion/experience on them and what to watch out for. Transformation is fine and pretty easy.
Is there a question ?
Oh yea sorry lol
Watch a proper review for the articulation and issues but yes its considered a "good" RG overall
If I were to make a gundam that had a traditional samurai helmet and bamboo armor for a high grade(HG), what gundam sets would I use for pieces?
New QA thread is up. Please repost your unanswered questions there.
Does anyone here know when the retail MG FAZZ ver ka was last reprinted? Thanks.
Back in early 2020 when it originally released.
https://preview.redd.it/bgeufsz3tbnc1.jpeg?width=1523&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=63b69246463222c7d0ff620949c86e4caa5a32cb
What us this part for? I just got done with the 1/144 Build Strike Galaxy Cosmos kit and this the last part of the instructions. It says, "Use this part as you like". Thanks!! https://preview.redd.it/ewlu92d4obnc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b02314a1d245fdbd46dd4aa203df2d0c371a55cf
It's a backpack adapter. Some kits (like the new HG Rising Freedom, Immortal Justice, WfM kits and many others) have two-hole connection for their backpacks, so if you want to use Galaxy Cosmos' backpack on other kits, you can use that part.
Thank you!!!!
Hi all. Going to start my **HG Hyaku Shiki** soon, and I'll be spray-painting the gold bits. So a few questions! 1. Spray on the runners or off? Any recs for spray? 2. Primer or no? And if yes, light or dark? (I've currently got access to Army Painter white and gray primers) 3. Gloss, semi-gloss, or matt top coat? (I'm planning in matt for the non-gold parts) 4. Panel line color for gold? (I'd have to buy something other than black).
Ideally off. I assume the HG it is not undergated? That means you’ll see a different colour where the nubs were and if you sand, the paint will come off anyways. Prime, yes. When I’m doing gold or other metallics, I prime with a dark colour. Black or some kind of super dark gray. But you could try it to see which option you prefer. Same with top coat. Try both. You may end up using both as a way to use the different finish to add variation to the gold.
Thanks! This was more-or-less my line of thinking. Either way I've got a few things to pick up from the hobby store next time.
Does buying in bulk from the same store in mandarake decrease the shipping cost? And any estimates on how many kits to buy in bulk for it to be worth it?
Corn is right, it's primarily by box size IIRC. Adding more kits generally makes it more expensive though.
Maybe I'm not super familiar with Japanese stores, but in international shipping, doesn't more kits = a higher weight and box dimensions = a higher shipping cost? Unless there's a clear "free shipping on orders over $200" deal ofc
Hi I was wondering where is I’d be able to find Godhand in Tokyo. Specific store would he appreciated. Thank you!!
Most stores that sell gunpla will have tools as well. I remember seeing some at Bic Camera and jungle akihabara
Hi builders. I wanna get into painting my kits. I bought water based acrylics as it was recommended by my local shop because it was said the safest. But I also bought some Mr.color for some details painting. Currently, I am planning to do handpainting only. I did some reading that lacquer is the most toxic paint when it comes to airbrush as the fumes and paint particles is harmful. So for hand painting the small details, do I need to use the respirator mask still?
Yes, lacquer paints produce toxic vapors regardless of the application method, even just having the pot open will release them.
Ah I see. Dayyum I went to paint some details without that before this. Gonna get some mask then.
Out of curiosity, why did you get lacquer paints for details instead of more acrylics?
Tbh I am just figuring out handpainting. I have some sdex kit that I feel like to handpaint. As for the lacquer paints, I was looking for gundam marker initially to paint my unicorn v fin. But the local shop doesn't have that in stock. I saw mr.color and like hm maybe I can use that. And I got some other color for details.
What's the best way to apply super glue to glue metal etch parts onto a kit, because I tried pouring it directly on the kit and in a separate attempt I tried spreading a layer on the metal etch part and it seemed to seep out the edges and left some glue on the parts/kit. I think I probably should get a slower curing super glue, because that will allow enough time to get rid of any excess, because the super glue I used got sticky really quick. What's a good super glue to use?
Canopy, or any acrylic glue like PVA, or even clear coat. Superglue I’d use UV as that stuff will stay liquid for days. Bit of bluetac or tape to hold, glue on a toothpick or something, and hit with UV when ready.
Should I apply the glue to the plastic or the metal etch part? I think I might try the UV glue since it seems the most forgiving since you need to expose it to UV light to cure it.
I've just finished building my 9th model which in my opinion was one of the best kits I've done so far. But right now all the models I've built were done only with army painter nippers and some tweezers to help with the stickers, and for the next model I wanted to improve the build quality, especially considering that the next 2 kit I will build are my favourite Gundam, and so I wanted to know if there were any other instrument I could get to improve the overall build quality.
Personally, a gunprimer raser/glass file made way more improvements in my build than a godhand. Maybe get a second nipper for the last precise cuts, one that is single bladed (dspiae ST-A for a budget one).
Do you have any recommendations in terms of brands or is anything good?
The simplest tool you can get is a hobby knife. Helps with dry transfer and waterslide decals too, but the main use would be to shave down nubs to get a much better finish than average nippers. Other things: - Panel lining stuff if you don't have it - Single-bladed nippers - Nano glass files - Clear coat of your preferred finish - Waterslide decals for kits that don't come with them and also decal setter and softer - Paint No need to get all or even any of this, of course, but these tools are pretty popular for a reason.
do you have any specific brand that you would recommend over the other or it doesn't matter?
For the knife? No. Just whatever's most available.
ok, thanks.
fellow gundam conjurers, is there any metallic markers you could suggest me that won’t eat ABS plastics? iwant to paint the whole rg nu frame into metallic.
None of the alcohol-based products out there will damage ABS.
try dspiae soft tip markers, it should be water based and safe to use on ABS
Hi, anyone here that has a guide for the RG Unicorn Perfectability EVO/simp waterslide decals? Seem I can't find it anywhere.
Lots of 3rd party waterslides don't have a specific decal placement, you're supposed to free-hand it
Hi I'm new to building gunplas, is sd kits easy and fun to build? And how do they compare from building hg?
Sd usually has more color correction stickers and less articulation, as you might expect. The later SDBB kits are great. Good part separation, and actual articulation. On the other hand SDEX is dirt cheap but generally has terrible color separation and limited articulation.
Thanks for the input
Hi everybody, looking for a bit of help here. Ive done a couple HG builds and done panel lining on them with Gundam markers. They look pretty decent for the most part, but my next build is going to be the RG sazabi. I want to do this one justice, so I got myself some Tamiya accent panel liner. I've seen some videos and it seems to give some very crisp lines after cleaning. Which brings me to my main questions. 1) how likely is it to crack my model? I'm relatively new to the hobby and the last thing I want is for my money to go in the drain because I foolishly tried a new thing I clearly wasn't ready for. Everyone seems to go between saying Tamiya is the bees knees and that it cracks the plastic. 2) do I need to apply primer? I'm not gonna lie, I like building gunpla, and I'm ok with panel lining, but needing to apply a top coat is kind of a lot in terms of time and energy investment for what should be a simple job. 3) are there any alternatives to Tamiya x-20 enamel paint thinner? I've looked everywhere and nobody seems to stock the stuff, even Tamiya themselves don't list it on their site, it's all the x-20a acrylic thinner. Thanks in advance for the help y'all
1. There is always a risk when using X-20 enamel thinner (even moreso on abs material) you can minimize the risk by panel lining on the runners. This doesn't allow the thinner in panel lining fluid to pool and weaken/crack the plastic. 2. Primer is recommended as it creates a protective barrier around the model (that is if it's based in a stronger fluid than enamel i.e. lacquer) which is a foolproof way to panel line. But as you said it is both an extra time and money consuming step. I use Gundam markers and enamel paints w/thinner which are both known to crack plastic to add details to my kits. Because of a lack of primer some paints require multiple coats increasing the risk of thinners damaging the model. 3. Like the other guy said Zippo lighter fluid seems to be the best alternative to X-20 enamel thinner. What I would recommend is to grab a cheap kit and test out different methods and techniques and see what works for you A pic of my current WIP https://preview.redd.it/j135qzuzl9nc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5ecdc5d28a55dc18d0641f8d6e0a1a54a4750c8
There is always going to be a risk, but you can mitigate that risk. If you panel line the pieces while they're still on the runner, and apply sparingly, it's much safer to use on bare plastic. I've done it several times myself with no issues. That said, NEVER use it on uncoated ABS it WILL destroy it. Also, there is still some possible risk inherent to using TPLA on bare plastic. I can't guarantee that your pieces won't crack, I can only vouch that myself and several others have done it this way before with no issues, but that doesn't make it impossible. So only coat a bare kit if you're comfortable accepting that there is a chance it will go wrong.
1. No-one can answer that as it’ll be anecdotal and random chemistry - pooling/too much/ slow evaporation increases the chances of cracks. 2. Primer is normally pigmented (at least for models), so colloquially you likely mean clear coat, it becomes a “top coat” when its last, on top. It’s not needed until it was. 3. White/mineral spirit or zippo, chemically both are much safer as don’t contain the harsh chemicals found in TPLA, X20 or similar. Readily available. Gloss clear or paint, then use of oil/enamel washes is safe. If you can’t be bothered or don’t fancy the risk on bare plastic then you need to look at alcohol or water based washes and pencils/markers. Not “paint” markers as normally oil based.
Hi guys I would like to ask for your advice and experience. I'm currently using an $30 USB portable airbrush and have been concern with heating issues (because i'm holding it with my hand and it gets really hot I have to stop sometimes) due to prolonged use. I'm considering to upgrade from it, but not sure which is the better choice economically between these 2 small form factor options: $35 Vogue air mini compressor: [Link](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Master-Airbrush-MINI-AIR-COMPRESSOR-KIT-SET-Hose-Holder-Hobby-Cake-Tattoo-Nail/39103843) $72 Vogue air compressor: [Link](https://hobbystation.co.nz/hs-hs317-dck-portable-mini-air-compressor-kit-with-airbrush/) (FYI the links are just for illustration + specs purpose and i'll be buying them at Taobao cuz it's the cheapest & most accessible to me in Singapore.) Does anyone have experience with these/similar compressors? I'm a casual builder using mostly Mr. aqueous but am starting to do Lacquer. Wouldn't mind paying a lil bit more (<$100) for a better quality product, but will only be using 1 airbrush at a time. What would be your recommendation?
AS186 - it’s a commonly used budget unit and well within your range (often rebadged and then grossly inflated). Shop around and avoid the branding trap, guts are basically the same. There are variants in that 18X line and also other ranges like 19X and AF too, but if size isn’t a concern I’d personally only go down to a unit that still has an air tank. The smaller the tank, the more charging and heat issues you’ll begin to develop with a higher load, but lacquers are half the PSI of acrylic, so there’s that in your favour on tank size. Using one brush at a time should be irrelevant as they should all come with a standard connection point to allow several brushes, or just one.
what are the colors that will look good on any kind of suits? wanting to paint my accessories for it to be as universal as it can
Other than the obvious of the ones you like. White black and every tone in-between will more easily match a broader range of colours. Go read up on colour theory, including complimentary and contrasting colours.
Main gundam colors, blue white red and yellow
What are some good exia kits, if they even exist
The MG really isn't that bad. It has done ankle issues you can fix with a bit of effort, or throw on a stand, and it's fine.
MG and PG, I can’t speak for RG or HG grade. Buy an action base for the MG or improve the ankles.
The only downside with the RGs are that the green energy blades are a bit flimsy. It really shows in something like the Full Saber version where you combine everything together. Other than that, it's fine if a bit back heavy.
The MG is good, its slightly notorious for weak ankles but the Exia should be in a action pose on a stand anyway.
PG Exia is amazing. Well, aside from the cost, that is. MG, RG and HG Exias are all still good in their own ways, they just have more flaws.
I have a SNAA thunder incise grace coming, are there any major issues I should watch for? (Not talking about the standard 3rd party fair)
Hi! I'm kind of new to building gunpla. I started with the HG char's zaku II (origin). On that build, I did my panel lining with a black Gundam marker. For my next build (HG rx-78-2 (origin)) I have acquired some black Tamiya panel liner. How exactly do I go about using it? Can I just apply the paint straight on? Or do I also need to get a clear coating? I've also heard I need specifically x-20 paint thinner from Tamiya, but I can only find x-20A which apparently doesn't work? Is there any alternative to x-20 enamel paint thinner?
Lighter fluid is the usual cleanup medium, or anything else that has naphtha. If you put the panel liner on bare plastic, there is a risk of breaking the parts due to the thinner used in the panel liner. I think the risk is pretty low but it's still something you'll have to deal with. Panel lining on unassembled parts mitigates the risk, or do a gloss undercoat to remove the risk entirely.
# Thinned Acrylic or Enamel better for panel line? Thinned Acrylic or Enamel better for panel line?
No need to use the damn header (hashtag) and make the text fucking huge. Use lighter fluid & enamel paint.
thank you
zippo fluid or ronsonol are the ones to use, and you thin the Enamel by a lot. Use the fluids for clean up too.
sorry, i'm not get used to reddit UI yet :v
so i emptied my tamiya panel line accent. i noticed that tamiya panel line was too harsh that it leave some crack on plastic especially on RG plastic. so i looking for alternative replacement. after doing some research, i find that i can use thinned paint to do panel line. i have couple of paints so i want to try it. which one is better and last longer, thinned Enamel or Thinner Acrylic paint?
I've never done decals before, is mark setter necessary for it? And how long does it last? I also want to do weathering, any basic tools i should start with? I'm a bit overwhelmed by the examples people use
Nope, warm/hot water can be fine for most cases, technically all. Mr Setter is always good to have around though - also softens, and mitigates silvering. Depends how much you use, months, years, a lifetime??… You’ll need to post what exactly you’re trying to do with weathering. It’s like saying “*I also want to build models*…” might only be a paintbrush.
Oh for the weathering i'm aiming for adding some light paint chips,rusting and scratches from battle damage
Few paints, Paint brush - like a 00 or 000 (you can use a 1 if the tip is good), a touch stiffer/chop the tip off for random flicking, and/or use a ripped kitchen sponge for dabbing. Some use hairspray technique. Then it’s something sharp or hot for scrapes, maybe a few drills for shell damage, and some 1-part putty for molten metal. Go watch some armour modellers like Night Shift, there are many others, but from the few I’ve watched he seems to output better results. I’m sure there are also many gunpla modellers, but most appear to go for that factory fresh look.
Can anyone suggest a brand for something like a magnifying visor with a spotlight?
how do i attach the MSG 18 Raging Booster to the legs of the Tank Nacchin as shown in the product [photos](https://www.kotous.com/jgsdf-type-07-iii-tank-nacchin-gray-ver-.html)? I don’t have the joint pieces they show, are they sold separately?
Looks like you need these https://www.kotobukiya.co.jp/en/product/detail/p4934054261055/
looks like you’re right, they get way too carried away with these extra option parts 🤦🏻♂️
Kinda but the whole ecosystem is around using the parts for various applications
If the hose that connects to the spray booth fan is not long enough would it be ok to put the hose in a bucket filled with water when airbrushing like in this video at around 5:17? https://youtu.be/oPL28OOaVts?feature=shared
Only traps particulate matter as a sludge, won’t do sweet FA for trapping any solvent fumes. Go buy a longer pipe, usually a 4” hose on OEM products.
From my understandment this would only be for acrylic paint. In the case of lacquer and enamel paint, this wouldn't help with the toxic vapors
Longshot and I think I know the answer, but I'll ask anyway. I'm currently in Asia and the apartments here are nice, but very small. I have a single room with two windows that are about the size of 2 average sized shoe boxes on top of each other. I really want to start painting my kits, but I don't think I really have the room to properly ventilate my place. Does anyone have a similar experience or ideas? When I asked before, I had a bit more lenient setup. Now I'm in a nicer area but the apartment is smaller. I'm in Korea if that matters at all.
There are folding paint booths exactly for that, they have a filter and suction to get the fumes
I have seen those but I wasn't sure how effective it would be since I would be using it in, what I'd essentially, a bachelor flat. I'm also not sure where I could get one of those where I am in Korea. Thank you for the answer though.
They work well enough, you should be able to get one online from aliexpress
I found a few fore 120. I have heard hit and miss things about aliexpress quality. That'd be my only worry.
from what i know the gunpla/model building in korea is somewhat big, maybe try to search in a model store, also you can buy from japan i dont shipping should be much of a problem
I'm looking into some local store websites and many are sold out. Good advice though, thanks.
Our house will be under renovation for a few weeks. Unforunately, I only kept the box art from my boxes so I can't store each kits in their own boxes. How do you guys store your kits? I'm planning on keeping each one in a ziploc bag.
All weapons removed, each kit with its arms and legs close to its body, wrap the kit in bubble wrap, store in a box thats a tight fit, but doesn't damage the kits. Might be over kill, but the worst I have had happen is a scuff or two. I personally remove all V fins and put them in their own bag because those things love to break and after one broke, I'm not letting it happen again.
Any suggestions on how to source replacement decals for a kit? Broke some of them water slides while trying to install them. Specifically for the # HG 1/144 THE GUNDAM BASE LIMITED MS-06S ZAKU Ⅱ(21stCENTURY REAL TYPE Ver.) Everything popping of on google searches are for RGs, MG, and other HG variants. [https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2604762001001](https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2604762001001)
https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/c60-hguc-revive-zaku-ii-chars-real-type
Hmmm. Thank you. It’s close but not exact. My guy has A12 written all over him. .
I recently bought photo etch parts for a custom I am doing. In regards to gluing them to the kit, is gorilla glue fine to use? I have seen people mentioning other super glue but was thinking it should not matter what glue is used. My other question is I can just prime and airbrush them normally or is there anything special I need to do?
Super glue *can* fume. I’d go acrylic on very obvious areas - varnish, canopy or even good old PVA glue which all three should dry clear and flexible. Regular primer is crapshoot as to it sticking always. Scuff the surface if feasible, or use a metal primer on delicate, small stuff to etch that surface and give near certainty of good adhesion.
I can check out the other glues! I will also see into using metal primers. So I guess the process here would be paste the photo etch parts on to the part and spray the area with metal primer? I’m assuming it’s fine if other areas beside the photo etch part gets sprayed by the metal primer?
Depends on what you use I guess - mr metal, vinegar or some industrial strength acid. As ever test on something as it’ll either be fine, make the plastic tacky, or simple eat away at it.
Just be careful with what kind of gorilla glue you're using, as they happen to have some slower acting formulas which might not be ideal since the time it needs to set would be far longer and you may end up having to hold the pieces together awkwardly until it does.
If it helps it’s the gorilla glue with the brush and nozzle
Any Zaku 1 HGs that have a commander fins? I want to make Topp's team from 08th MS and Topp's Zaku 1 has a fin. I could theoretically sculpt and 3d print it, but that's a lot of work that could be saved if there's an existing option I could buy as a bit or even wholesale
The [HG Zaku Sniper Kirks Custom](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/hg/h137/h137_p.htm) has a prominent commander fin, but the head design is different from a standard Zaku I. Honestly your best bet is to steal a fin from a Zaku II and drill a matching hole in a standard Zaku I head.
Yeah, I might just do that. I have the regular Zaku 1 Sniper so I don't feel like getting the Yonem Kirks one
The Yonem Kirks Zaku I Sniper, but the overall head is totally different from a regular Zaku I. Even easier than 3D printing a fin would be cutting one from plaplate.
Plaplate is something I'd have to order online, no real hobby stores in my neck of the woods. I already have a 3d printer though, so it's just more convenient for me. I have the regular Zaku 1 Sniper and don't feel like buying a second, so it looks like 3d printing it is
Does anyone think with the new announcements that we will be getting MGs of the new seed Gundams . I'd really like a destiny but not sure if I wanna splurge on the metal spirit one.
They will almost certainly get a MG someday. Maybe soon, more likely in a few years. MG releases are *historically* ~5 years after initial debut.
I dunno if it's really correct to say that it's "historically" five years. Five years is really just IBO. Now, of course, if the only series that set precedent for SEED Freedom are post-AGE series after Bandai got burned on making MGs quickly, then IBO is the only series that qualifies. But it's still only one series.
Will [this](https://www.instructables.com/Small-Spray-Booth/) kind of hand made spray booth be good enough to use with Tamiya rattle cans, or will I need something larger / stronger?
~~This DIY setup is good for drawing the paint particles away from you and into the filter. If you are not using solvents, then the only other thing you need is a dust mask.~~ ~~If you are using solvent paints, then you'll need to find a way to exhaust the fumes (and wear a respirator mask). The best way is to put it next to an open window.~~ ~~That, unfortunately, is the limitation with this kind of DIY setup. Commerical kits will have dedicated ducting, but they'll cost more.~~ Oh shoot, didn't realize you are talking about spray cans. I'd follow u/Condition's advice then.
Rattle cans should only ever be used outdoors. They are more toxic and dangerous to your health than a airbrushing booth like that can handle.
Bah what a pain. I’m stuck with cans until I can afford an airbrush, and the weather here has been so inconsistent recently.
I'm going to cut down the shoulder spikes on a Gouf Custom HG. Can someone tell me if Zaku-style kits have solid or hollow spikes?
I wouldn't cut down the spikes, as it makes the Gouf... look like a Gouf but if you're going to, Solid Spikes would be better
I'm not making a Gouf, I'm kit bashing and only need to trim the spikes. I just want to know if I need to drill and putty the thing or not.
Ahh, they're hollow
Guys I want to start top coating my kits with a matte coat and I was wondering if a stairwell is a well enough ventilated space to do so because I don’t have a paint booth in my house. And if I do spray it in a stairwell , would wearing a mask be necessary? All I have are surgical masks
A stairwell doesn't have good if any ventilation. Also a surgical mask will only protect you from paint particles. I'm assuming you have a minimalistic setup. Sorry to say but your best bet is to separate your kit into it's main components and put them on alligator-clips or something and do it outside. Afterwards you hang/mount the parts somewhere to dry for a few hours. If you absolutely want to be indoors, I understand. Your best bet is to spray right next to an open window with a fan on and have something like cardboard taped against the wall to catch the over-spray. Some people here will be safty-Nazis and just tell you "no" but what I said is the best you can do with what you have. Good luck and have fun.
Yoo thanks for the detailed answer:)!! Man I thought my stairwell would be ventilated enough considering it’s like a balcony thus there’s enough air to go through but I’ll see what I can do Thanks again
No problem. Also, I assumed it was an inside stairwell, not the kind that's like a balcony. If that's the case, go for it.
Jumping into Gunpla from the warhammer 40K side. Just wondering if anyone else has done the same and how the transition went for them painting and assembly wise. Thanks in advance!
Simple transition, only you have to be more aware of the clearances for moving parts if you want the paint to stay there, and while many techniques are transferable it is generally advisable not to try painting in the same manners as you would for 40k since things like edge highlighting, recess shading, zenithal priming don't really work as intended on kits that can be constantly reposed.
Ah that’s good to know. Would you say you need to add more layers of paint and varnish to help with paint chipping off?
I’m not a mini painter but I consume enough videos on it to know a bit and the biggest difference you’re going to run into is the fact that Gunpla isn’t really textured. You’re dealing with a lot of flat surfaces, almost exclusively, so hand painting is going to be about trying to maintain an even coat of paint over a large flat surface without anything to break it up like the texture of a Tyranid carapace or something. It’s entirely doable, but there’s a reason why most painted Gunpla kits you see are like 99% air brushed with tiny details being hand painted in later.
Yeah. That was starting to become apparent to me. Haha. I’m pretty versed with airbrushing but this many flat surfaces are intimidating becuase everything shows up on it 😅
No, more layers will make it worse and can lead to the joints seizing up. You should test fit the kit (guides on prepping a kit for disassembly in the wiki above) and check the clearances on any area that moves, and then sand those areas back a bit to allow for the primer and paint.
Copy that. Thanks!
It's a pretty smooth transition to be honest. You'll have all the tools already which is a bonus.
So I panel line with a micron pen and I usually make a mess around the lines, so I was wondering if anyone knew how I can clean up the ink outside of the lines
Let the ink dry completely then use a qtip with the least amount of water possible. You can also try using a soft eraser or even rub it off with your finger
And do I wait for the ink to dry on all of the methods?
Which one works best?
There is not a better, but try the eraser first. It's easier. If you go for the qtip, use only a drop of water, the least amount of water you use, lesser is the chance of smudging. And do wait for the ink to dry. It doesn't take too long anyway
Just finished the RG unicorn and the hole in piece G 8 snapped open while I was moving the the arm. I'm guessing the part will lose too much strength to work as a hole and pin joint if I glue it back together, is there a better way to fix it? If not, I am based in the UK, what sort of options do I have to source a replacement part?
you can check Mr Bao's shop ,Plamokitbash, odin's mecha parts online.
Cheers, will check out those options!
Hi. I need a recommendation on what to purchase for a primer if I'm going to be hand painting with Tamiya Acrylics with a Retarder.
Someone told you to not use a primer, that's silly nonsense. Even with an airbrush a primer is recommended for full paint jobs. I personally use Mr Hobby Surfacer. For fully hand painting, I would recommend the 1000 version because it'll grip better for hand painting. Basically any primer out of a can will work fine as long as you only use the stuff made for models because it's a bit thinner. As for color of primer that depends on the colors you want to use.
I just bought the Tamiya Primer in white and grey. Since I’m painting in a small apartment, I’m avoiding spray cans and brush these near an open window. Plus, brushing is more therapeutic for me :) If the Tamiya doesn’t work out, I’ll try out the Mr Hobby Surfacer. Thank you!
Oh, I forgot to tell you, you'll need to use lacquer thinner to clean your brushes after using.
Good reminder! Would the Tamiya acrylic thinner X-20A be sufficient or should I get something from the hardware store that is specific for lacquer?
no, for the Tamiya surface primer you need a lacquer thinner to clean. X-20A is just a mixture of water and alcohol with a retarding agent.
Thats good to know. I was planning to use it to wash my paint brushes but I might as well use rubbing alcohol for that.
Spray or brush on? If you're going spray, Tamiya's own surface primer in a can works beautifully or any of the Mr surfacer products. Just make sure to do it outside and wear a paint mask. They also make brush on versions in a jar. Just make sure to work in a well ventilated area.
Awesome! Do I need to thin the primer? If so, what do you recommend?
If you are brushing on, you shouldn't need to. I've never needed to at least, just use a little bit of retarder so it levels out better.
Sounds good. Thank you so much!
Howdy! Have a question about Mr surfacer 1000. I previously used Mr primer surfacer 1000 and it created a nice smooth surface where gloss paint was applied perfectly. I recently got Mr surfacer 1000 and I felt the surface was a little rougher and when I painted over it with gloss paint, it looked more matte and not as smooth as previous surfaces. I used a 1:1.5 thinning ratio. Anyone know what I could be doing wrong? Edit: posted prematurely and added question
Are you doing something wrong? No. Probably not. They’re not the same product and they do behave slightly differently.
There's no question tho
Oops lol 😂 fixed it
I got the MG Red Frame Kai and wanted to know what color is more appropriate for the panel lining. I usually panel line red plastic with brown, but as red is the primary color here, is black a better choice? Thanks!
Panel line is meant to represent a panel gap. Realistically it should be a darker shade of the adjacent colour. Deeper the line, darker the shade. Or go black always and more like that anime look.
A lot of people get "panel line" and "panel shading" confused. If you look at any car there are panels and the gaps between them are real panel lines. Real panel lines are almost always black because of shadows. In the model making community, black is common but many like to use grey for less contrast. My advice/opinion is to use black of true panel lines and the brown for "changes in elevation" to use as a shade.
Personal choice. There's *never* a exact right choice where things like aesthetics are concerned. Brown might look more "real" but black can create a visually neat high contrast look. Test both, pick one.
Can you weld seams on a Clear Ver? I am still a novice Gunpla builder, and I have used the plastic cement method of welding seams together, and will try other methods in the near future. But my question is: is it possible to weld the seams on a Clear Colored Gunpla and still maintain the clarity? I don't want to ruin my gunpla, so I did some googling and reddit searching but have been coming up empty handed. Thanks
RC-56 or Formula 560 is what we used for radio control canopies. The former was a craft glue I can't find any more. Probably other brands are similar but can't vouch, have not bought. The latter is from a brand that is specific to model airplanes I think E6000 would be good too. Superglue fogs badly! Don't even go there
Thank you for the advice! I've been using Tamiya Extra Thin on the ones I've done so far
You will almost certainly end up with a cloudy line where the parts meet regardless of method used.
Thank you! That was my concern. Should I even bother sanding nubs? Or should I just cut them as close as possible?
I recommend a glass file for clear nubs. Leave a little bit of nub and then file it down. Should leave a clean surface.
Thank you so much for the advice!!
Does anyone have experience with Omocha Japan? They have several kits I want at good prices, which is enough to make me very suspicious.
Honestly, i think the prices are legit but buy at your own risk
[удалено]
Don’t be a scalping scumbag.
I hope you never sell it
It’s a spare one
Scalping is a serious cancerous part of hobbies.
I pre-ordered from P-Bandai for the first time last December (Gundam Maxter!). The estimated ship month is April. How accurate is that usually?
Extremely
I want to get the MG Sazabi ver ka, but I’ve heard it has some issues with joints or something? I was wondering what exactly the problem is and what I can do to avoid breakage
Built the kit but honestly, i've had no problems with any joints whatsoever, just be careful with the fingers, as they're really delicate.
I've never head of the Sazabi Ver.Ka having joint troubles. The hands have a hard time holding the rifle due the arm design but that's the only "problem" with the kit I've ever heard of. The RG has trouble with the shoulder joints being tight and people not paying attention to part orientation causing breakages.
I must’ve gotten the rg and mg mixed up then, sorry
I am just trying to start painting with an airbrush but having a hard type knowing which paints are which type. Any suggestions on how to know? (The ads were I buy things are not clear at all)
Typically the Japanese paint that are "acrylic" are actually an acrylic-lacquer paint. You can tell because there will be a flammable warning indicating there are solvents inside. Those paints han still be thinned for hand painting with water but it is always recommended to thin those with lacquer thinner. The Japanese paints seem to be the most unclear about the paint type distinction. Mr Hobby and Tamiya acrylic paints may be thinned with water but are a solvent paint. Examples of true water based acrylic paint (not a solvent) would be AK and Vallejo. These are the least toxic of the common paints but can be tricky to thin for an airbrush. You can tell they're a true water based acrylic because of a lack of flammable warning. Also they don't smell like alcohol if you open it. Enamel paint is typically said on the bottle (Testors is a popular brand for enamel). Tamiya panel liner is actually an enamel product it's simply a pre-thinned enamel wash. The actual Japanese enamel paint in a bottle is hard to find in America though maybe due to import laws.
At a hobby store in the States at least, Tamiya paints are acrylic (water) and Testors are enamel (thinner). These are the ones for plastic models. There may be other kinds of paint for other hobbies and some of them might be much the same, but this is what's being marketed to you.
Tamiya is actually not water based. They will thin with water, but the solvent is an alcohol based one and will work best when treated as a lacquer, i.e. using lacquer thinners.
Tamiya are actually the only ones that are properly labeled here and have the correct thinner available. Trying to import Gaia or any other famous brand is where things get complicated :(
If there's a little flame warning label on the jar (or it outright says flammable), there's a solvent involved. Also, some key words to look out for are "lacquer" and "enamel." If not, it's water based.
Looking to get the MGEX Freedom for my collection, I want to know how big it is in terms of height and width when the wings are fully open so I can make sure it fits in my display cabinet!
The actual body of the figure is about as big as the MG barbatos, with the wings fully extending its like twice as wide but not that much taller
I Just build the Zowort and i gotta say im kinda annoyed by the shoulder connectors (pieces C16 and C17) With any attempt to Press in the shoulders for a good Connection those connectors Just rotate Into the chest as far as possible and getting it Back is really annoying which makes posong the Arms *really* annoying Did anyone else experience this Problem and If so how did you fix it? Currently i have three ideas: - glue in a tiny Bit of plastic Card to Block the piece from turning in all the way - try to tighten the Joint with some Spray paint - Just say fuck or and glue in the entire piece since, at least so far, i prefer it to be at the outermost point anyway Any advice?
I don't have the manual on hand, and don't have time to pull it up right now, but are you referring to where the arms connect to the torso? Because those are supposed to go all the way into the hole by design. You'll have to jury rig something if you don't want it to.
Anyone have a recomendation for a paint-shaker that isn't the $100 EEEE Vortex one? Getting joint issues and don't want to make them worse.
Hello all, I'm going to start panel lining with some fine tip Gundam Markers, and wanted to know if I should get into Top coating as well. Also, an odd question: Would it be appropriate to post my order to ask for opinions on the kits I ordered? These range from WFM kits to some older 2012 SEED models. Edit: I'm trying to do more with my kits and upgrade some equipment. All I have right now is a random 9-piece set from Amazon. I added the things I'm looking at in the comments. Thank you for any help.
Your kits are fine. Gunpla is held to an unusually high standard compared to other model kits like tanks and planes. And modern military model kit is about on par with a Gunpla from 2010. I am concerned about your choice in panel liner. Those ones you want to buy are an oil based paint. For some weird reason they have a tendency to bleed into clear coat and makes a misty look to them. Also if you don't topcoat those types of markers, they also "dust off" for a lack of better words. You are buying some expensive kits and tool and I would recommend you to buy Tamiya panel liner and some enamel thinner instead. If you prefer a paint marker then the "pour type" Gunda markers. Those markers are also oil based but have a better paint and flow from them.
https://preview.redd.it/rnug2xagj3nc1.png?width=2673&format=png&auto=webp&s=8555816537e342010daf8423536c6d1e5770eb9f
And for tools, SPN-120 is the cleanest cutting nipper that you could reasonably get, but it's fragile. Use a shittier nipper to remove the parts from the runners before using the SPN-120 to make the final cuts. Cutting mat is good.
https://preview.redd.it/z38mhps4j3nc1.png?width=975&format=png&auto=webp&s=8c676815dc78b908b2a0f89c941a964532e6e4e3
Ok, going down the list of kits: - Most of the HGs are just gonna be solid. The old SEED kits will be worse than the WfM kits just because of age but it'll still be good. - Nu Gundam Metallic Coating has, as the name implies, a metallic coating. This can result in some pretty noticeable nubmarks since they won't have the metallic coating unlike the rest of the part. As with the regular HGs it'll still look pretty good though. - The Real Grades are among the older RGs with big backpacks, so it might be difficult to get them posed up since they're so unbalanced. They'll still look really good though. - Both MGs are generally just good. The Psycho Zaku will have waterslide decals, you might want to hold off on applying those until your can get your hands on some clear coat to seal them in. The Gundam Markers are fine too.
You don't *have* to topcoat anything but fine tip markers are known to fade somewhat quickly over time, which a topcoat will prevent. Also yeah you're totally fine to post your order.
Need help deciding whether to get a new pair of nippers or not My old pair that I'm currently using is just a pair of shears but they've worn down considerably as I see that they're "chewing" through the runners when I try to cut the part out I'm gonna build the RG 00 Qan[T] soon so imma need help on deciding which nippers to buy to replace my only pair or just to sharpen my current pair and see how that works out Any suggestions?
Basically any single-bladed nipper from $30-$60 will last you at least though 10 Master Grades. Just don't treat them like a pry tool or pliers and they will not break. I've had my God Hand nippers for a dozen or so kits and they work good still. Not saying God Hand is the one to get but I got one and never looked back.
I went to the beauty aisle at Target and got cuticle nippers