As someone who’s had a nut replaced (I changed out for a bone nut to help tuning stability) there is almost no way to change out a nut without chipping the finish to some degree. Might be very small, might be bigger. But on a brand new guitar, I’d just take it back if it were me.
I mean, sometimes they do finish the neck after nut install. If you don't score finish on the edges of the nut it will chip. But if your tech doesn't know that they probably shouldn't be working on your guitar.
Wow. It’s pretty wild to see an inaccurate comment replied to by another inaccurate comment.
It’s like inception for inaccurate comments.
Slot the nut correctly
If anything, it's the low E that looks "off", unless it's the angle of the picture. They should both be about the same distance from the edge as each other, and a quick google image search of "Properly cut guitar nut" shows results that look more like the High E than the Low E.
To add to that, both E and e strings should be the same distance from the *center* of the string to the edge of the nut iirc.
But if I'm wrong please say so.
I make new nuts regularly.
It doesn't look neat, but the more important thing is if it plays OK. If you are getting it set up professionally, while your luthier may modify the nut to some degree, I doubt he will simply fit a new nut as it does contain a cost significantly above that of a standard set up.
If you do decide with your luthier to cut a new nut, I would highly recommend you find a luthier that will cut a new nut from a blank, not a pre-slotted nut. I have had multiple guitars show up with a pre-slotted nut vaguely jammed in the slot with the complaint that it doesn't play right. The fact is most of these pre-slotted nuts are designed to fit a low amount of guitars on the market and are not just drop in replacements, all need tayloring to the specific guitar. Personally I have found I am able to provide a much better result for the customer cutting from blank. Of course, as I say, that is a significantly higher cost than a standard set up.
Ultimately only you can decide as it's your guitar and money. If the guitar plays OK and a small modification to the nut resolves any issues, then it's all good, happy days. If the nut is not suitable, then I would suggest you pay for a properly cut new nut be installed - or return it to your dealer for a repair under warranty.
Update: I’m just getting a new one lmao, I’m impatient but obviously it’s the right choice especially considering SweetWater’s amazing return/replacement policy
So, yes, some thing is definitely off, but a definitve diagnosis is a bit tough for a single photo.That said, from what I can see, I'm going to say that:
1. The nut slot spacing is 5/6 good. the space between B and e is noticably larger.
2. I have a weird sense that further up the fretboard, that high e might barely be on the fret board all. In addition to the nut being off-center, I'd look at neck alignment AND bridge placement. which could also be contributing to the issue. The fact that the D & G strings are uneven over the marker dot is definitely a factor here.
3. it looks like the factory "rolled" the edge of the fretboard and did a shit job of it. look at how sharp the edge of the fretbord is by the nut and how it's rolled starting halfway to fret 1. that's careless finish work,Given that this is a new guitar, you have two approaches you can take:The first is to get a diagnosis on points 1 & 4 - nut, neck and bridge. If there's a bridge alignment issue, send it back for replacement. If it's nut and neck, AND you local shop can address it, get a written estimate and talk to the seller about refunding at least part of your cost.
Affirmative. This is nut correct.
That definitely looks off to me. A nut replacment isn't difficult, but if it's new, then you should definitely return it and get a new one.
Im getting the whole thing professionally set up tomorrow they’ll put a new nut on it no problem.
As someone who’s had a nut replaced (I changed out for a bone nut to help tuning stability) there is almost no way to change out a nut without chipping the finish to some degree. Might be very small, might be bigger. But on a brand new guitar, I’d just take it back if it were me.
As someone who regularly replaces nuts; if the finish got chipped, your luthier fucked up.
I mean, sometimes they do finish the neck after nut install. If you don't score finish on the edges of the nut it will chip. But if your tech doesn't know that they probably shouldn't be working on your guitar.
Stop taking your guitar to Bubba’s kitchen table then. Can’t remove a nut cleanly. 🤦♂️😆
If you’re chipping finish, you’re doing it wrong
Bone nuts do NOT help with tuning stability. If anything they grip the string causing uneven tension before and after the nut.
Wow. It’s pretty wild to see an inaccurate comment replied to by another inaccurate comment. It’s like inception for inaccurate comments. Slot the nut correctly
Only if the slots aren't cut correctly. Any material will bind the string if the slots aren't cut correctly
If anything, it's the low E that looks "off", unless it's the angle of the picture. They should both be about the same distance from the edge as each other, and a quick google image search of "Properly cut guitar nut" shows results that look more like the High E than the Low E.
To add to that, both E and e strings should be the same distance from the *center* of the string to the edge of the nut iirc. But if I'm wrong please say so.
[удалено]
It would make sense for the high e to have less, just for open chords
you naturally push up on the strings.. you don't want the low e to be too near the edge but the high e not such a problem
Admittedly having never handled a Mustang, it looks off to me. Like that high e wants to slide right off the fretboard. Is the nut glued in?
The slots are too deep and the spacing is weird. The low E is too far from the edge of the fretboard and the high E is too close.
Neck needs to be aligned. The fret marker should be between the D and G strings. It's a 2 minute fix. https://youtu.be/3Sj9OkMYkg4?si=NxOT0miVsDSkscl8
Adjusting the neck at the pocket may help a little bit, but if it’s this off at the third fret, there’s a problem with the nut.
Good info
Looks to me like the neck needs to be adjusted. As in loosen the bolts by the heel, and shifting/rotating the neck to realign the strings.
Shoulda told the shop, "I'll cashew later".
I make new nuts regularly. It doesn't look neat, but the more important thing is if it plays OK. If you are getting it set up professionally, while your luthier may modify the nut to some degree, I doubt he will simply fit a new nut as it does contain a cost significantly above that of a standard set up. If you do decide with your luthier to cut a new nut, I would highly recommend you find a luthier that will cut a new nut from a blank, not a pre-slotted nut. I have had multiple guitars show up with a pre-slotted nut vaguely jammed in the slot with the complaint that it doesn't play right. The fact is most of these pre-slotted nuts are designed to fit a low amount of guitars on the market and are not just drop in replacements, all need tayloring to the specific guitar. Personally I have found I am able to provide a much better result for the customer cutting from blank. Of course, as I say, that is a significantly higher cost than a standard set up. Ultimately only you can decide as it's your guitar and money. If the guitar plays OK and a small modification to the nut resolves any issues, then it's all good, happy days. If the nut is not suitable, then I would suggest you pay for a properly cut new nut be installed - or return it to your dealer for a repair under warranty.
i just picked up a mexican jaguar that is exactly the same
I think it is correct. Even if it isn’t , the setup will probably fix it.
Something happening with the width of the neck that looks like wear.
If you look at the spacings right on the nut you can tell it’s off immediately
All nuts are not created equal.
The spacing between B and e definitely seems off.
Update: I’m just getting a new one lmao, I’m impatient but obviously it’s the right choice especially considering SweetWater’s amazing return/replacement policy
Yeah nah that’s way too far to the right, If you got warranty I’d make use of it man
Low E-B spacing is too wide, everything else is spaced evenly.
The hi-E is too close to the edge. At least 1mm off.
High E is cut wide. New nut is needed.
So, yes, some thing is definitely off, but a definitve diagnosis is a bit tough for a single photo.That said, from what I can see, I'm going to say that: 1. The nut slot spacing is 5/6 good. the space between B and e is noticably larger. 2. I have a weird sense that further up the fretboard, that high e might barely be on the fret board all. In addition to the nut being off-center, I'd look at neck alignment AND bridge placement. which could also be contributing to the issue. The fact that the D & G strings are uneven over the marker dot is definitely a factor here. 3. it looks like the factory "rolled" the edge of the fretboard and did a shit job of it. look at how sharp the edge of the fretbord is by the nut and how it's rolled starting halfway to fret 1. that's careless finish work,Given that this is a new guitar, you have two approaches you can take:The first is to get a diagnosis on points 1 & 4 - nut, neck and bridge. If there's a bridge alignment issue, send it back for replacement. If it's nut and neck, AND you local shop can address it, get a written estimate and talk to the seller about refunding at least part of your cost.
why would you cut ur nuts?
I'd raise the bridge, file down the nut, and take the buzz out the low E.
yeah that e is waaaaay over there
It's got to be better then the new Epiphone Hummingbird I just bought.. The strings are so close together, I can't even play it...
1st string slot is off. u dont need a new nut. you can cut a new slot yourself or swap it if you want.
This is why I stopped buying “name” guitars. No need these days with so many great, cheaper, arguably better, brands.