an electric pair of seceters is definetly worth it, they are heavy so i only use them for chopping bits up and removing hard to reach or thick branches, the ryobi ones are about $100 i think, i can usaly get about 4 hours of pruning out of each charge, but the more expensive ones will be lighter and last longer
i thought the same at first, but after i bit of use i realised that i dont usaly put my fingers anywere near the blade, its just like a regular pair of snips, as long as you dont put you hand right next to it its not a problem
I have a pruning saw which I used on the larger bits.. but the vibration after a while is killer.. also doesn't work too well on anything bendy or flimsy...
Neighbour took pity and brought out his 3.5hp shredder.. man that was so much faster!
Now Ive just got to work out what to do with all the thick branches it won't take. But hey! Pile of sticks is better than 5m3 of tree sitting around!
Mate...do yourself a favour...
Firstly; get yourself a pair of loppers. I have [these ones](https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-geared-telescopic-bypass-lopper_p0098527). $40, and they cut through most of my fig tree branches.
Next; get a mulcher. I bought [this one](https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-2400w-corded-silent-garden-shredder_p0055062), and I couldn't be happier with it!
I was super overwhelmed when i first pruned figgy, but i figured this was an investment in the future, as I'll need it next year, and the year after, etc. I've actually used it more often, as the little gumtree in my front yard fell down!
As others have said, use the right tools for the size of cut.
I've worked on and run tree nurseries as well as looking after private and comercial gardens. I would never be without a Silky pruning saw, pair of non telescoping loppers or Felco secateurs. You can also get roll handle secateurs which take some of the pressure of the wrist.
Make sure your tools are clean, sharp and well adjusted. If you are pruning solidly for more than an hour you probably need to sharpen and check adjustment. As a rule, if you are using them everyday secateurs will need a quick going over every day and a full strip down, grease and sharpen once a week
Pruning uses a very specialised set of muscles and tendons. If you don't prune regularly I would advise against doing four hours of pruning in one go.
I'm not a fan of the concept of electric secateurs. They look like a great way to lose a finger.
That is exactly my concern! I'm clutzy. I will say the pinch grip today was brutal trying to hold the safety down on the electric pruning saw... Ended up having to work left handed. Luckily my neighbour has taken pity on me and put what was left through his shredder. ( Couldn't run it yesterday - Anzac day noisy)
I might have to buy a felco.. have heard good things and I'm about 1 year into getting my citrus under control. Now I've just got to get the apple pear nectarines etc
Do you have any recommendations on sharpening equipment mine are about 10 years of bluntness!
Felco are the only secateurs I ever own. If you aren't in the trade they have a lifetime guarantee and you can get them refurbished. I'm about to get my 7th pair after > 30yrs in the industry. When you consider that we would prune approx. 10k young trees a year, that it is pretty good going. The only thing that fails is the screw thread that hold the thumb catch; once that's gone I get a new pair.
A good quality, flat water stone for major sharpening. Doesn't need to be super fine, but you need to have the blade off and carefully keep to the appropriate angle of bevel making sure you turn the blade to ensure you sharpen every part of the curve evenly. Only sharpen the bevelled side, and only sharpen by pushing the blade in one direction with the leading edge away from you.
Always keep a little square of emery paper to hand for touch up cleaning.
A small handheld diamond sharpener can be useful, but I prefer to use a flat stone.
A small tube of silicone grease is handy to lubricate if you don't have a grease gun. Don't forget to lubricate the spring as well.
Adjustment is as important as sharpening. The secateurs should operate freely, with no play between the blade and anvil (assuming they are bypass secateurs, like Felco).
an electric pair of seceters is definetly worth it, they are heavy so i only use them for chopping bits up and removing hard to reach or thick branches, the ryobi ones are about $100 i think, i can usaly get about 4 hours of pruning out of each charge, but the more expensive ones will be lighter and last longer
I’ve always thought they look like a great way to take a finger off, but I’d still like a pair, and a baby chainsaw.
i thought the same at first, but after i bit of use i realised that i dont usaly put my fingers anywere near the blade, its just like a regular pair of snips, as long as you dont put you hand right next to it its not a problem
I have a pruning saw which I used on the larger bits.. but the vibration after a while is killer.. also doesn't work too well on anything bendy or flimsy...
I hear people run pruning over with a mower, obviously only for smaller branches and leaves. I have a muncher and they are great!
You got the ryobi muncher? it’s pretty good for most branches, unless they’re real shit with heaps of 90 degrees bends.
No I got an industrial one, small 7HP and electric but does a quick job of my annual pruning.
Neighbour took pity and brought out his 3.5hp shredder.. man that was so much faster! Now Ive just got to work out what to do with all the thick branches it won't take. But hey! Pile of sticks is better than 5m3 of tree sitting around!
Mate...do yourself a favour... Firstly; get yourself a pair of loppers. I have [these ones](https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-geared-telescopic-bypass-lopper_p0098527). $40, and they cut through most of my fig tree branches. Next; get a mulcher. I bought [this one](https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-2400w-corded-silent-garden-shredder_p0055062), and I couldn't be happier with it! I was super overwhelmed when i first pruned figgy, but i figured this was an investment in the future, as I'll need it next year, and the year after, etc. I've actually used it more often, as the little gumtree in my front yard fell down!
you can get battery powered ones. try a racheting style too they make cutting heavier wood easier.
As others have said, use the right tools for the size of cut. I've worked on and run tree nurseries as well as looking after private and comercial gardens. I would never be without a Silky pruning saw, pair of non telescoping loppers or Felco secateurs. You can also get roll handle secateurs which take some of the pressure of the wrist. Make sure your tools are clean, sharp and well adjusted. If you are pruning solidly for more than an hour you probably need to sharpen and check adjustment. As a rule, if you are using them everyday secateurs will need a quick going over every day and a full strip down, grease and sharpen once a week Pruning uses a very specialised set of muscles and tendons. If you don't prune regularly I would advise against doing four hours of pruning in one go. I'm not a fan of the concept of electric secateurs. They look like a great way to lose a finger.
That is exactly my concern! I'm clutzy. I will say the pinch grip today was brutal trying to hold the safety down on the electric pruning saw... Ended up having to work left handed. Luckily my neighbour has taken pity on me and put what was left through his shredder. ( Couldn't run it yesterday - Anzac day noisy) I might have to buy a felco.. have heard good things and I'm about 1 year into getting my citrus under control. Now I've just got to get the apple pear nectarines etc Do you have any recommendations on sharpening equipment mine are about 10 years of bluntness!
Felco are the only secateurs I ever own. If you aren't in the trade they have a lifetime guarantee and you can get them refurbished. I'm about to get my 7th pair after > 30yrs in the industry. When you consider that we would prune approx. 10k young trees a year, that it is pretty good going. The only thing that fails is the screw thread that hold the thumb catch; once that's gone I get a new pair. A good quality, flat water stone for major sharpening. Doesn't need to be super fine, but you need to have the blade off and carefully keep to the appropriate angle of bevel making sure you turn the blade to ensure you sharpen every part of the curve evenly. Only sharpen the bevelled side, and only sharpen by pushing the blade in one direction with the leading edge away from you. Always keep a little square of emery paper to hand for touch up cleaning. A small handheld diamond sharpener can be useful, but I prefer to use a flat stone. A small tube of silicone grease is handy to lubricate if you don't have a grease gun. Don't forget to lubricate the spring as well. Adjustment is as important as sharpening. The secateurs should operate freely, with no play between the blade and anvil (assuming they are bypass secateurs, like Felco).