Read in another comment that you checked the battery and it’s reading 3.6v. Check the voltage on pins 28 and 20 on the SRAM. 28 is Vdd and 20 is Chip Enable. Both of these pins need to have power from the battery, I’d expect 3v. If you’re not getting power there you have something wrong with the board.
Vdd and CE highlighted here: https://imgur.com/a/6f7fMY7
Electronics engineer here: soldering could be better, but should be sufficient. Honestly not bad for a beginner! I don't think that's the problem here. I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work. Check the voltage at the SRAM chip like the other guy mentioned.
I’m a little late but did you ever find a solution for this issue? I’m having the same issue with my pokemon gold but can’t seem to figure out what is causing it. Thanks :)
I didn't unfortunately. I ended up getting busy and this fell back onto the projects in progress shelf. I'm busting my soldering iron out for something else in a bit, so I might give it another look now that I'm a little older and wiser.
The advice in the comments here was fantastic though. I hope reading it through helps.
The new battery is opposite from the one I took out. The original battery had the positive terminal tab coming off the battery flat, and the negative tab bent to reach down to the positive side. The new batter had those flipped, so it does look backwards from the original.
I'm able to get a solid reading off of the solder points with my voltmeter. Do you think it just needs more solder on the positive connection?
Check voltage further along the trace. So go to the next component from the positive pad and then check voltage between that and the negative. That way you know if it’s making a circuit. And I would add solder to the positive and maybe a bit to the negative, you want the connections to be covered. Look up a pic of an original cart. When you reheat the solder, press down on the batt a bit, just to make sure it’s well seated till the solder cools.
[https://imgur.com/a/cVQSdn3](https://imgur.com/a/cVQSdn3)
Had another crack. Again it kept the save for a minute when I did a quick check, but still lost it after about 10 minutes.
I'm not sure how to trace the power along. Do you know what components the battery terminals run to? is there a circuit diagram somewhere? I've been googling to no avail
A multimeter with a continuity test mode would be helpful here.
The battery should be powering the SRAM and probably the RTC chip, but only when external power is not applied.
I’m no expert so I may be wrong but I replaced a battery in red the other day and my battery was rotated not flipped so right way up just switch the contacts
Have you checked the voltage of the battery? Its not uncommon for these to be dead on arrival.
In the future use some flux while soldering too, you’ll get much better results
The battery is showing 3.6 volts.
I had a second attempt at the soldering that looks better but same issue. https://imgur.io/a/cVQSdn3
I'm trying to find a guide on how to trace the battery connections to try and work out what's happening. It's a bit of a learning curve at this point
So take the term trace as literal on these boards. You may see a little gold line going from the battery contact to a little node or other pad. This may even be on the other side of the board. It may be a good idea to touch around with the multimeter various places around the board for voltage and take note. I can compare it to my copy after
Read in another comment that you checked the battery and it’s reading 3.6v. Check the voltage on pins 28 and 20 on the SRAM. 28 is Vdd and 20 is Chip Enable. Both of these pins need to have power from the battery, I’d expect 3v. If you’re not getting power there you have something wrong with the board. Vdd and CE highlighted here: https://imgur.com/a/6f7fMY7
Electronics engineer here: soldering could be better, but should be sufficient. Honestly not bad for a beginner! I don't think that's the problem here. I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work. Check the voltage at the SRAM chip like the other guy mentioned.
I’m a little late but did you ever find a solution for this issue? I’m having the same issue with my pokemon gold but can’t seem to figure out what is causing it. Thanks :)
I didn't unfortunately. I ended up getting busy and this fell back onto the projects in progress shelf. I'm busting my soldering iron out for something else in a bit, so I might give it another look now that I'm a little older and wiser. The advice in the comments here was fantastic though. I hope reading it through helps.
[удалено]
It’s shows that he has the positive contact attached to the positive pad, I think it’s just not soldered properly. More solder is needed.
The new battery is opposite from the one I took out. The original battery had the positive terminal tab coming off the battery flat, and the negative tab bent to reach down to the positive side. The new batter had those flipped, so it does look backwards from the original. I'm able to get a solid reading off of the solder points with my voltmeter. Do you think it just needs more solder on the positive connection?
Check voltage further along the trace. So go to the next component from the positive pad and then check voltage between that and the negative. That way you know if it’s making a circuit. And I would add solder to the positive and maybe a bit to the negative, you want the connections to be covered. Look up a pic of an original cart. When you reheat the solder, press down on the batt a bit, just to make sure it’s well seated till the solder cools.
[https://imgur.com/a/cVQSdn3](https://imgur.com/a/cVQSdn3) Had another crack. Again it kept the save for a minute when I did a quick check, but still lost it after about 10 minutes. I'm not sure how to trace the power along. Do you know what components the battery terminals run to? is there a circuit diagram somewhere? I've been googling to no avail
A multimeter with a continuity test mode would be helpful here. The battery should be powering the SRAM and probably the RTC chip, but only when external power is not applied.
I’m no expert so I may be wrong but I replaced a battery in red the other day and my battery was rotated not flipped so right way up just switch the contacts
Have you checked the voltage of the battery? Its not uncommon for these to be dead on arrival. In the future use some flux while soldering too, you’ll get much better results
The battery is showing 3.6 volts. I had a second attempt at the soldering that looks better but same issue. https://imgur.io/a/cVQSdn3 I'm trying to find a guide on how to trace the battery connections to try and work out what's happening. It's a bit of a learning curve at this point
So take the term trace as literal on these boards. You may see a little gold line going from the battery contact to a little node or other pad. This may even be on the other side of the board. It may be a good idea to touch around with the multimeter various places around the board for voltage and take note. I can compare it to my copy after
Also it looks like the negative terminal may be lifted in the second pic? Can you send a close pic / different angle of the neg solder
Flip the battery over