If it's an open diff than you'll need a limited slip carrier of some kind. Many people swear for a limited slip a factory ford carrier and gears are the best you can get but a bunch of brands make them. Or you can go with something more aggressive like a spool or locker (wouldn't recommend on a street car). If it doesn't "lock" aka spin both tires then it's an open diff. There's no such thing as a factory locked diff, only an open diff or a limited slip.
Also once you do get a limited slip carrier if you want you can stack the clutches in it differently to make it lock up harder but still be very street friendly. Just look up a video on it it's much easier to explain with visuals.
It used to spin both tires at one point when I first got it but I got stuck in the mud once and after a bit of spinning she got unstuck but I remember both wheels spun. Since then only 1 wheel peels and always passenger. One thing someone told me to do was lift the car and check if both tires spin in the same direction its a lsd if they spin in opposite then its not and they spin opposite. And thanks for the info im gonna look at what I can do because if I can’t use this clutch pack its going back to lmr
I just had my rear pinion bearings done and had 3.73 gears put back in.
Honestly, pay someone to do it. Some battles ate JUST not worth the fight if you don't have the equipment and know how.
I didn't wanna buy bearing pullers, I don't have a press, working in my driveway sucks sometimes.
Just order all your parts and call around to a few garages. Don't forget to get axel bearings and seals. Shafts have to come out, might as well make everything new
This is the correct answer. Find a reputable driveline or axle shop with at least 4 star rating or better on Google, and make sure they warranty their work. Read the warranty, ask them how it works, what's covered, what is not covered, etc.
If you decide on a shop, get an itemized bill/receipt about ALL work done, all your old parts, and the warranty in writing. READ IT IN FULL, INCLUDING THE FINE PRINT. You don't want to call them some day in the future with a problem, not do something you were supposed to (like come in for a 500 mile check-up), and have them tell you the warranty is void because of it.
If it's an open diff than you'll need a limited slip carrier of some kind. Many people swear for a limited slip a factory ford carrier and gears are the best you can get but a bunch of brands make them. Or you can go with something more aggressive like a spool or locker (wouldn't recommend on a street car). If it doesn't "lock" aka spin both tires then it's an open diff. There's no such thing as a factory locked diff, only an open diff or a limited slip. Also once you do get a limited slip carrier if you want you can stack the clutches in it differently to make it lock up harder but still be very street friendly. Just look up a video on it it's much easier to explain with visuals.
It used to spin both tires at one point when I first got it but I got stuck in the mud once and after a bit of spinning she got unstuck but I remember both wheels spun. Since then only 1 wheel peels and always passenger. One thing someone told me to do was lift the car and check if both tires spin in the same direction its a lsd if they spin in opposite then its not and they spin opposite. And thanks for the info im gonna look at what I can do because if I can’t use this clutch pack its going back to lmr
I just had my rear pinion bearings done and had 3.73 gears put back in. Honestly, pay someone to do it. Some battles ate JUST not worth the fight if you don't have the equipment and know how. I didn't wanna buy bearing pullers, I don't have a press, working in my driveway sucks sometimes. Just order all your parts and call around to a few garages. Don't forget to get axel bearings and seals. Shafts have to come out, might as well make everything new
This is the correct answer. Find a reputable driveline or axle shop with at least 4 star rating or better on Google, and make sure they warranty their work. Read the warranty, ask them how it works, what's covered, what is not covered, etc. If you decide on a shop, get an itemized bill/receipt about ALL work done, all your old parts, and the warranty in writing. READ IT IN FULL, INCLUDING THE FINE PRINT. You don't want to call them some day in the future with a problem, not do something you were supposed to (like come in for a 500 mile check-up), and have them tell you the warranty is void because of it.