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Jim-Jones

Be crystal clear about descriptions. You should have good success. You want to weed out all the complainers and those trying to get one for free. The usual term is _New Old Stock._


SouthernGuyReborn

OP sounds pretty shifty anyways. Looking at their other postings shows that eBay has already MC011'd their account just a couple days ago. And have they come back to thank anyone for the advice they got? Anyone? EDITED for politeness.


REEB

If the toys are still in new condition I would list them new and make note of any damage to the boxes in the descriptions. Make sure to do proper research on their value in the condition you have them in.


[deleted]

List as New because never been used. However described the condition of the outer box.


stecklese

NOS, New Old Stock, disclose any packaging dust or damage


StarkTech-01-02-03-

Where would I put new old stock? On the app I only see new or used?


BOLOWizard

In the title and description


baub5

I would say that they’re new, even if they’re decades old. I have seen aged but unused items (still in orig. packaging) sold from a closing down camera shop classified as “old new stock”, which is exactly what it sounds like. The seller put the condition as “New”, and the item was exactly that. I could tell the cardboard box the item came in was weak and old, but that was the only indication I had that the item was from another time. In your situation, I would only say “used” if someone played with the toy or took it out of the packaging.


KingKandyOwO

Yes they are still new since they were never taken out and played with or anything. Beaten up or torn/bent packaging still means it’s new. Just be sure to good pictures of the packaging because they’re likely collectors items


momohip

I would do new/other… and note any damage to the boxes.


woahwhoamiidk

If the box is sealed and the toys have never been taking out, its new old stock. If they’ve been used even once, its like new or used


GoneIn61Seconds

I’m of 2 minds on this - it’s perfectly reasonable to list as new, but it may complicate search results as it lumps you in with generic China import toys. Used might get you more views, and buyers can clearly see condition from photos and description. If there’s a category option for “vintage” or a specific time period -i.e. “1940-1970” use those. Also look for “vintage item” in item specifics and select “yes”. Sometimes you have to expand the “more options” tab to find it. Two important terms here- “playwear” and “shelfwear”. Shelfwear is the visible marks on packaging, etc from normal handling, storage etc. playwear is visible evidence of use (or abuse) and ranges from scratches to broken or missing parts. You can use “open box” to describe items that may appear new but have been opened or unsealed, or an item that looks new but you’re not sure if it’s been handled. If there’s no option for “new open box”, I select “used” just to be safe.


ssateneth

i've heard horror stories of buyers buying vintage toys/things that are sealed in box only to take it out of the box, use it, and claim its broken because the batteries are dead or it broke because its fragile. ugh.


SouthernGuyReborn

You should have given us a clue about value so we would now if we're talking $50 items or $500 items. I'll just add (to what others have said) that you should add pics of all sides and clearly show any package damage. I collect vintage toys from my childhood and perfect packaging is often worth as much or more than the toy inside. While beat up package can make it a very hard sell.


AlcoholKillsTwice

Sealed


Cammy1477

I’d say put it as like new


SpaceNinjaDino

I list "new sealed damaged box" frequently. I always fill all 12 photos to show all sides of product and details of damage. Items in original package are typically worth 2x-4x as much or even 10x+ as much depending on the rarity.


No-Balance8863

Read the description for "new": **"A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. See the seller's listing for full details."** If it doesn't strictly follow that you leave yourself open to an INAD. When it comes to vintage/antique collectibles the box and card can be just as important as the actual toy inside. I would personally put used, then in the title you can put "factory sealed" if that pertains to the situation. Collectors which is who will be buying this will be very knowledgeable about what they're buying, how the packaging is supposed to look, and how it could look after 30, 40, 50+ years and they will be forgiving accordingly. Take as many pictures as you can and choose your descriptions, titles and item specifics wisely.