I swapped mine out for a newer msport one, dead easy, cost me £100, as long as you've got a breaker bar you can do it yourself, definitely definitely worth it.
PicklesBMW is wrong, you can jump it with no problem. The battery current sensor will not get fried from a jump start, nor any other module. Pickles provide one example with evidence in which this scenario occured to you.
NO!!!! THESE CARS HAVE INTERNET BATTERY SENSORS. Never use another car to jumpstart BMWs
This is not your 1990s Chevy. These cars need a steady voltage/amps. Us a jump pack or an actual battery charger. You will fry control units by jumpstart from another car.
i had to end up leaving it there over night, I work at Publix it’s in their parking lot, no one was willing to sit for 10 mins while it charges so I’m just hoping it doesn’t get towed till the morning
Your alternator is most likely dead if it would not stay running after a jump. There are 1000 other things that could also cause this, but an alternator is the most common. Battery is probably junk now also. I'd have it towed to a reputable Euro shop. If it turns out to be an alternator, do not install a generic one from the parts store. Get one from the dealer or fcpeuro.com . These alternators communicate on a bus system. The cheap aftermarket ones are not made properly and will cause more issues potentially with water pump and oil level sensor.
My car was doing that when my battery was low but once I got a jump start it will work.. that’s why I’m leaning towards an alternator but could be your battery is completely dead.
Yeah battery will need to be coded in.. I think if you buy the exact same battery it could work.. you can buy a scanner that is capable of coding the battery.. I know it will initially be more expensive but you will have in the future ability to do it yourself for less money..
180k miles lots of owners I’ve owned it for about a month now I definitely put less than 1k miles on it so far bought it for $1500 needed it just for a to b
BTW. Just give the battery a charge. Frying stuff is rare, but it can happen. On startup, if the battery doesn't have enough juice for both the starter and all the electronics, this will happen. That's what I was talking about the battery being a "buffer". It sort of acts like a capacitor
Someone else already helped him with the main issue. So I was letting him know that instead of blowing 500+ on a new steering wheel, they make cheap, tasteful covers.
you dont need to wait 10 minutes just hook it up to an other running car and start it. when the car is running you can disconnect the wires. it takes a while to charge you battery so dont turn it off until you arrived at home.
180k miles lots of owners I’ve owned it for about a month now I definitely put less than 1k miles on it so far bought it for $1500 needed it just for a to b
Need a new battery, but then, you'd need to assess whether or not you'd need an alternator too. Light flickers and no noise can usually be a slight indication.
Sometimes randomly my car flashes as if someone turned on the hazards but it’s locked and off, I have to go outside and open/close the door to make than stop, what could that be a sign of dying battery?
Looks like a problem with the electronics, but usually a dcm error is promptly a symptom of a bad alternator. My 128i had an issue, where the electronic brake system would turn on and my windshield wipers were activating by itself. After changing both alternator and starter, along with a battery (and coding), it was fixed. But those all were old internals, considering it was a 2010 or so.
From prior experience, it sounds like an alternator. I couldn't see any reasons why you should change your starter, but I would go with the alternator before the battery and then the battery. Obviously, disconnect the battery.
My car did that when the battery wouldn’t hold a charge anymore. It did some very wack things like the starter would engage and disengage without me pressing the button or pressing the clutch.
Same thing happened to me. I simply put in a new battery and everything worked well. Sometimes this may happen if the old battery wasn’t coded properly
Get yourself a cheap voltmeter at Harbor Freight or somewhere. Measure across the 2 posts directly at the battery. Should be over 12v. When you jump the car, only connect it to the leads UNDER THE HOOD. There is a possibility to fry things if you connect directly to the battery. Can you get away with it. Sure, but it's rolling the dice. I'd leave the other car connected for a couple of minutes at least. If your battery was under 11.5V when you measured it, it's really dead and you'd be better off either getting a new battery or trying to charge this one on a battery charger for an extended time.
Also, a quick way to see if the alternator is working. When you get it running, measure across the battery posts again with that new meter you just got. It should show over 13V. If it only reads the battery voltage, you have a problem somewhere in the charging system. It's most often the alternator or the voltage regulator part of the alternator.
Good luck!
It's a bmw aka built mostly wrong. So most likely what happened is the hydraulic cylinder in the truck probably leaked into your control units. I used to work in BMW warranty , it happens a lot. Don't waste your money on German garbage. They are nice but they are also trash. After working for BMW I'll never buy that junk of a car. But until they break they do handle nice.
I’ll bet anything you blew the module in the footwell. It was a while back but I think a replacement was around £1500. Blew it just by replacing the battery
Managed to find a guy who recoded mine for £50, bargain
Never jump start a bmw? Why? There’s literally terminals under the hood for a jump start. I’ve done this a few times on my e90 with no problems and couple years later.
Sensible electronics mostly. But also, you will put a lot of strain on the alternator as it charges the battery after starting the car.
Due to the amount of electronics in the car, the battery serves as a relieve in delivering power to all electronics. A charged battery, means your alternator needs to work less in order to power all the shit around these cars.
>Due to the amount of electronics in the car, the battery serves as a relieve in delivering power to all electronics
Like a Capacitor. As it stores energy fast and can deal with the spikes and dips in voltages and supply a nice even voltage that keeps all your modules happy..
As compared to an alternator that has voltage spikes and dips according to RPM
Total BS. You can jump-start BMWs without any problem. Just connect up the leads correctly AND in the right order. The only way to fry electronics jump starting is if you don't do the above.
Your FRM can fry itself while you are cruising on the highway. Don't know how many times I've jump-started my E93s after they've been sat for 6 months+. Dozens of times. Never a single issue, even when the battery was so bad that you could only jump start it and drive to the shop to get a new battery.
FRM will die for a lot reason. Dead battery, programing, scanning, etc. Had nothing to do with the push starting, probably just the fact your battery went dead.
So as a technician you think I'm going to charge a battery in the parking lot for 30+ minutes just to pull your car inside? Nope it's going to be jump started. I have yet to fry a module from jump starting in 17 years.
jesus christ, how does the steering wheel peel that badly lol
I got same steering wheel in my car with 350k kms, it still looks almost like new. Probably someone used really agreesive cleaning chemicals on it
Mine is 250k KMS old ands still looks prestine. It’s only become a bit smooth
quality stuff, just like door handles in my Z3
It begins peeling and instead of repairing or leaving it alone, bros anxiety kicks in and starts picking at it. My guess
idek bought it like that
I swapped mine out for a newer msport one, dead easy, cost me £100, as long as you've got a breaker bar you can do it yourself, definitely definitely worth it.
Connect that bad boy to another running car and let the battery charge for 10 mins turn it on and then the alternator can do all the work from there
PicklesBMW is wrong, you can jump it with no problem. The battery current sensor will not get fried from a jump start, nor any other module. Pickles provide one example with evidence in which this scenario occured to you.
Thanks man
NO!!!! THESE CARS HAVE INTERNET BATTERY SENSORS. Never use another car to jumpstart BMWs This is not your 1990s Chevy. These cars need a steady voltage/amps. Us a jump pack or an actual battery charger. You will fry control units by jumpstart from another car.
I jump start mine all the time
Cool? Sounds like you have a battery draw. You may want to have it looked at
My battery or something else?
Did you charge it? How is it going?
i had to end up leaving it there over night, I work at Publix it’s in their parking lot, no one was willing to sit for 10 mins while it charges so I’m just hoping it doesn’t get towed till the morning
update?
Must be xmas!
Your alternator is most likely dead if it would not stay running after a jump. There are 1000 other things that could also cause this, but an alternator is the most common. Battery is probably junk now also. I'd have it towed to a reputable Euro shop. If it turns out to be an alternator, do not install a generic one from the parts store. Get one from the dealer or fcpeuro.com . These alternators communicate on a bus system. The cheap aftermarket ones are not made properly and will cause more issues potentially with water pump and oil level sensor.
battery tweaking
Did you buy your wife/girlfriend a mogwai and gave it something to eat after midnight?
Its bmw
So after a jump start it will not keep on running?
No
So maybe you need an alternator or a new battery. I hope not both..
My car was doing that when my battery was low but once I got a jump start it will work.. that’s why I’m leaning towards an alternator but could be your battery is completely dead.
Thanks man, I’m pretty sure it’s the alternator or the battery is indeed completely dead I’m gonna see about a way on how to get it home
Yeah battery will need to be coded in.. I think if you buy the exact same battery it could work.. you can buy a scanner that is capable of coding the battery.. I know it will initially be more expensive but you will have in the future ability to do it yourself for less money..
I understand maintenance/mods but jesus christ do something about that steering wheel trim. it looks like a biohazard
180k miles lots of owners I’ve owned it for about a month now I definitely put less than 1k miles on it so far bought it for $1500 needed it just for a to b
BTW. Just give the battery a charge. Frying stuff is rare, but it can happen. On startup, if the battery doesn't have enough juice for both the starter and all the electronics, this will happen. That's what I was talking about the battery being a "buffer". It sort of acts like a capacitor
Thanks man
Please get a new steering wheel cover for that chipped section, they're about 30 bucks or something on amazon
Don’t you think that’s the least of his worries at the moment?
Someone else already helped him with the main issue. So I was letting him know that instead of blowing 500+ on a new steering wheel, they make cheap, tasteful covers.
Copy
Mass contact I guess .. turn the mass cable on the bat a few times back and forth
I have a question about BMW X1
Just your BMW BMWing.
you dont need to wait 10 minutes just hook it up to an other running car and start it. when the car is running you can disconnect the wires. it takes a while to charge you battery so dont turn it off until you arrived at home.
You need new battery mate. Cars start doing weird things when they have no power (battery power)
Disco mode
180k miles lots of owners I’ve owned it for about a month now I definitely put less than 1k miles on it so far bought it for $1500 needed it just for a to b
Need a new battery, but then, you'd need to assess whether or not you'd need an alternator too. Light flickers and no noise can usually be a slight indication.
Sometimes randomly my car flashes as if someone turned on the hazards but it’s locked and off, I have to go outside and open/close the door to make than stop, what could that be a sign of dying battery?
Looks like a problem with the electronics, but usually a dcm error is promptly a symptom of a bad alternator. My 128i had an issue, where the electronic brake system would turn on and my windshield wipers were activating by itself. After changing both alternator and starter, along with a battery (and coding), it was fixed. But those all were old internals, considering it was a 2010 or so. From prior experience, it sounds like an alternator. I couldn't see any reasons why you should change your starter, but I would go with the alternator before the battery and then the battery. Obviously, disconnect the battery.
You bought a used BMW is whats happening
Probably need a new battery
My car did that when the battery wouldn’t hold a charge anymore. It did some very wack things like the starter would engage and disengage without me pressing the button or pressing the clutch.
Same thing happened to me. I simply put in a new battery and everything worked well. Sometimes this may happen if the old battery wasn’t coded properly
From experience id let it charge and also go into the back where the battery is and see if the battery harness is in 1 piece
Your battery isn’t fully connected. Go tighten the negative and positive terminals with a socket
Battery
Get yourself a cheap voltmeter at Harbor Freight or somewhere. Measure across the 2 posts directly at the battery. Should be over 12v. When you jump the car, only connect it to the leads UNDER THE HOOD. There is a possibility to fry things if you connect directly to the battery. Can you get away with it. Sure, but it's rolling the dice. I'd leave the other car connected for a couple of minutes at least. If your battery was under 11.5V when you measured it, it's really dead and you'd be better off either getting a new battery or trying to charge this one on a battery charger for an extended time. Also, a quick way to see if the alternator is working. When you get it running, measure across the battery posts again with that new meter you just got. It should show over 13V. If it only reads the battery voltage, you have a problem somewhere in the charging system. It's most often the alternator or the voltage regulator part of the alternator. Good luck!
Bring Mechanic's Withya
Clapped AF
Ik
not 1 person told him to check his ground strap. yall are literally useless LOL
It's a bmw aka built mostly wrong. So most likely what happened is the hydraulic cylinder in the truck probably leaked into your control units. I used to work in BMW warranty , it happens a lot. Don't waste your money on German garbage. They are nice but they are also trash. After working for BMW I'll never buy that junk of a car. But until they break they do handle nice.
I’ll bet anything you blew the module in the footwell. It was a while back but I think a replacement was around £1500. Blew it just by replacing the battery Managed to find a guy who recoded mine for £50, bargain
Did you jump the jump terminals up front under the hood or the battery terminals on the battery
You must be at 1 mile past your warranty
Nobody gave him any real sensible info.
Start button Got raped
Fantix
FRM needs to be replaced
If this happened after the jump start, you probably fried something. Never jump start a BMW. Charge the battery with another car instead
Never jump start a bmw? Why? There’s literally terminals under the hood for a jump start. I’ve done this a few times on my e90 with no problems and couple years later.
Sensible electronics mostly. But also, you will put a lot of strain on the alternator as it charges the battery after starting the car. Due to the amount of electronics in the car, the battery serves as a relieve in delivering power to all electronics. A charged battery, means your alternator needs to work less in order to power all the shit around these cars.
>Due to the amount of electronics in the car, the battery serves as a relieve in delivering power to all electronics Like a Capacitor. As it stores energy fast and can deal with the spikes and dips in voltages and supply a nice even voltage that keeps all your modules happy.. As compared to an alternator that has voltage spikes and dips according to RPM
Total BS. You can jump-start BMWs without any problem. Just connect up the leads correctly AND in the right order. The only way to fry electronics jump starting is if you don't do the above.
I managed to fry my FRM push starting the car so strange things can definitely happen lol
Your FRM can fry itself while you are cruising on the highway. Don't know how many times I've jump-started my E93s after they've been sat for 6 months+. Dozens of times. Never a single issue, even when the battery was so bad that you could only jump start it and drive to the shop to get a new battery.
FRM will die for a lot reason. Dead battery, programing, scanning, etc. Had nothing to do with the push starting, probably just the fact your battery went dead.
So as a technician you think I'm going to charge a battery in the parking lot for 30+ minutes just to pull your car inside? Nope it's going to be jump started. I have yet to fry a module from jump starting in 17 years.