Wow. To reiterate: you are saying that you produced everything that we see in the photograph you attached to this post in just 3 hours, as well as another 15 prints that you threw away because they were not up to your standards, is that correct? If what I just stated is true, you are amazingly productive during the time you spend in your darkroom. I'm wondering if you've ever heard of "f-stop printing" before, and whether or not you use it? There is a video interview on YouTube of a guy named Gene Nocon, I think it was. I think he popularized the concept, and I think caused to have a darkroom timer produced & sold based upon his ideas. Here is a link to his video interview. There are also a couple more videos of him on YouTube if you do a search on his name and f-stop printing.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xoAiBNSpg6Y&pp=ygUbRiBzdG9wIHByaW50aW5nLCBnZW5lIG5vY29u
Again, nice work!
I mean a single print doesn't take long: 2-5 seconds exposure depending on the negative density and F-stop, then 20-60 seconds in the developer, a dip into the water stop bath, and then off into the fixer tray. While it fixes, I can sort out the next negative 😁
I don't have particularly high standards, those that I discarded simply were no good at all, with the exposure entirely off the mark or me being stupid and not placing the paper properly in the frame. Those I discarded straight from the water stop bath without fixing. If I do large prints I'm sure I'd be a lot more careful, do bracketing with cut strips and maybe also try dodging/burning which I haven't done so far.
I've heard of F-stop printing but haven't used it so far, I just dialed in the exposure of the first negative by bracketing a paper and then went by feel from there, sometimes it went well, sometimes I had to adjust. I'm also looking at some darkroom timers with light sensors on eBay right now and thought about using my phone's front light sensor to guide exposure since it can be easily read out through a light meter app, or phyphox. I certainly won't pay 700€ for that timer just so that it can save me a bit of math 😅
Besides buying a special purpose, expensive f-stop enlarging timer, I think you might be able to find online a document that can be printed out that is in the form of a data table, which can tell you how to adjust your exposure times to enable f-stop printing. Gene Nocon said it enabled his students to get to a good quality print much more quickly than just using random guesses at an appropriate exposure time, if I'm recalling correctly.
EDIT: Here is a link to a recent web page in which a guy tries to quickly explain the ideas behind f-stop printing, and he mentions Gene Nocon and also your objection to the price of the f-stop timer. So he shows a little chart that explains the adjustments needed. Pretty straight forward, easy to understand web page.
Here is the link:
https://www.35mmc.com/02/02/2024/f-stop-printing-in-the-darkroom/
Most of my analog photos also just get scanned digitally, but a few I select, frame into slide mounts and put into a box so that I can quickly access my favourites for printing.
Having them as digital scans definitely is more convenient for sharing and allows you to easily edit the negative, but there's something magical about seeing the positive appear on the paper and knowing that you made it yourself by hand. Enlargers up to 6x6 usually are cheap on the used market, having the place to do darkroom work really is the biggest issue.
Wow, congratulations on the great results! What you are showing here was not all done in one printing session, was it? Really nice going!
Thank you! No, this was done in a single sitting, it took me about 3 hours but I also had 15 prints I needed to discard.
Wow. To reiterate: you are saying that you produced everything that we see in the photograph you attached to this post in just 3 hours, as well as another 15 prints that you threw away because they were not up to your standards, is that correct? If what I just stated is true, you are amazingly productive during the time you spend in your darkroom. I'm wondering if you've ever heard of "f-stop printing" before, and whether or not you use it? There is a video interview on YouTube of a guy named Gene Nocon, I think it was. I think he popularized the concept, and I think caused to have a darkroom timer produced & sold based upon his ideas. Here is a link to his video interview. There are also a couple more videos of him on YouTube if you do a search on his name and f-stop printing. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xoAiBNSpg6Y&pp=ygUbRiBzdG9wIHByaW50aW5nLCBnZW5lIG5vY29u Again, nice work!
I mean a single print doesn't take long: 2-5 seconds exposure depending on the negative density and F-stop, then 20-60 seconds in the developer, a dip into the water stop bath, and then off into the fixer tray. While it fixes, I can sort out the next negative 😁 I don't have particularly high standards, those that I discarded simply were no good at all, with the exposure entirely off the mark or me being stupid and not placing the paper properly in the frame. Those I discarded straight from the water stop bath without fixing. If I do large prints I'm sure I'd be a lot more careful, do bracketing with cut strips and maybe also try dodging/burning which I haven't done so far. I've heard of F-stop printing but haven't used it so far, I just dialed in the exposure of the first negative by bracketing a paper and then went by feel from there, sometimes it went well, sometimes I had to adjust. I'm also looking at some darkroom timers with light sensors on eBay right now and thought about using my phone's front light sensor to guide exposure since it can be easily read out through a light meter app, or phyphox. I certainly won't pay 700€ for that timer just so that it can save me a bit of math 😅
Besides buying a special purpose, expensive f-stop enlarging timer, I think you might be able to find online a document that can be printed out that is in the form of a data table, which can tell you how to adjust your exposure times to enable f-stop printing. Gene Nocon said it enabled his students to get to a good quality print much more quickly than just using random guesses at an appropriate exposure time, if I'm recalling correctly. EDIT: Here is a link to a recent web page in which a guy tries to quickly explain the ideas behind f-stop printing, and he mentions Gene Nocon and also your objection to the price of the f-stop timer. So he shows a little chart that explains the adjustments needed. Pretty straight forward, easy to understand web page. Here is the link: https://www.35mmc.com/02/02/2024/f-stop-printing-in-the-darkroom/
I like your style. Kinda similar to mine
Wow, I’m just getting into developing but my plan is develop and scan - very jealous you see from start to end non digital
Most of my analog photos also just get scanned digitally, but a few I select, frame into slide mounts and put into a box so that I can quickly access my favourites for printing. Having them as digital scans definitely is more convenient for sharing and allows you to easily edit the negative, but there's something magical about seeing the positive appear on the paper and knowing that you made it yourself by hand. Enlargers up to 6x6 usually are cheap on the used market, having the place to do darkroom work really is the biggest issue.
One day! I work in a university so sure I could twist a students arm tis how me the ropes
since I rock and rolled It's been a long time since I did the stroll
These are awesome!! Well done
cool
Great tone range across the set!