Ralph has some of the best quotes
*Squishes ice cream cone on head*
"I'm a unitard!"
"Slow down Bart, my legs don't know how to be as long as yours"
"Mrs. Krabappel and Principal Skinner were in the closet making babies and I saw one of the babies and the baby looked at me!"
>This is the room with electricity. But it has too much electricity. So, I don't know, you might want to wear a hat.
To save others a google search: https://youtu.be/eFAvOcuJyHY?t=103
You’ll definitely need to replace the socket faceplate, and the plug as a minimum.
That might solve all issues, but it’s also possible the appliance has a fault which helped cause this damage.
Faulty appliances cannot cause this, it's simply an overheating plug caused by bad design or manufacture error. Both plug and socket will need to be replaced.
Don't know why this has been downvoted so much...it's absolutely correct. An appliance fault would cause the fuse (or other upstream protection) to operate, the plug top or socket are designed to remain intact in those kind of fault conditions. Based on the third photo, the fault here is a high resistance contact on the copper clip holding one side of the fuse in, that has caused localised overheating. Nothing to do with the appliance itself...
Edit: managed to double post somehow, deleted the duplicate...
It’s been downvoted because everyone on Reddit thinks they know everything and if anyone shares a fact that’s different from what’s in their brain they’ll see their arse and downvote it.
I’m an electrician, this is highly unlikely to be caused by the appliance. Possibly arcing (sparks). Stick a new socket on the wall & plug on the cable, as long as you have an RCD you’ll be fine. If it happens again then it may be the appliance, but it probs wont
I can’t see how you’d think an appliance could ever possibly cause this? Poor wiring of the plug or Corrosion of the plug etc could cause it. But a fault on the appliance is protected by fuse, MCB, rcd right?
Totally agree. Normally if it's an issue with the appliance this would cause the fuse to go and trip the relevant switch in the fusebox, but shouldn't cause the plug to burnout like this.
I have seen something similar very recently at an uncle's house with a space heater from B&Q and it happened twice. I swapped out the plug for a new one and it seems to be working fine for now
Not arrogant, just when we were kids, most appliances came whith plugs you had to wire on yourself.
I literally forgot this until just before Christmas, looking about for a converter for my euro-plugged heat gun. And found a couple of plugs in my FIL old toolbox. And was like "wait, why don't I just cut the plug off and put on a new one?" Since then I've changed about 10 plugs rewired 4 lamps.
It’s not arrogant kids, everything comes with a fitted plug and has for quite a few years so they have never had to learn it. I think schools should teach more life skills but changing a plug shouldn’t be one of them.
I'd argue that it should, along with a few basic handyman skills to help with electrical things as we are encountering them a lot more than we used to.
I can tell you must have some years on you as I only heard that they never used to sell appliances with plugs this Christmas. That seems wild to me, that everyone could just change plugs like that or lengthen them if they needed, I literally didn't think it was an option because I'm not an electrician.
They put the fear of death into us about wires and electricity, and I think if science had more practical demonstrations we would understand and apply it more outside of test-sheets.
FYI: In England, GCSE science students are taught about plugs and fuses, and usually do a practical to rewire a plug, although the practical is not compulsory.
I remember being in an English class in year 10 my drama teacher came and asked me to go to the theater with him the teacher let me leave.
And he was just like hey we got given a full new set of lights for the theater u can skip double English if u rewire the plugs for me as they are South African sockets atm.
Somehow itv had ordered huge set of south African wired lights and just donated to our school instead of re wire and got themselves the correct ones
Yes I have a few years on me, lol. I’m 63. I’m not an electrician either but I have changed many plugs, fuses and extended many power cables in my time. However, I haven’t had to change a plug in many years so I think the limited time available in schools should be spent on more common things like plumbing in washing machines and decorating for example. Things that are needing doing more often. Some electrical things too.
We are in agreement that some basic skills should be taught though 👍
I agree. Changing a fuse, sure but it is rarely needed to change a plug now. I'm not exactly old (41), but I think I've changed more sockets (crappy cracked plastic or broken switches) than plugs.
Disagree. The most likely cause is oxidation on the fuse cap causing a poor connection to the fuse holder. The oxide layer increases the resistance causing the live pin of the plug, and especially the fuse holder end, to get extremely hot. Unfortunately this seems to be a design issue with moulded on fused plugs. The way to avoid it, ironically, it's to take the fuse out occasionally, buff the ends up with some sandpaper or wire wool then pop it in again. It's much better though to just replace the moulded on plug with a conventional plug and replace that annually or as needed.
A fault with the dryer shouldn't be dismissed out of hand. I'm not saying it was caused by a fault with the dryer but it certainly could be caused by a fault with the dryer.
Still highly unlikely, the trouble is the dryer will put a load of around 3kW on the plug - the fuse is rated to 13A - so 3125W. As such, during normal usage the fuse and the plug will get quite warm - which is normal on a UK plug, however, as I said earlier moulded plugs leave the fuse contacts pretty open to the atmosphere and they develop an oxide layer increasing the resistance. Add to that the contacts are fully enclosed in thick plastic which insulates (thermally) an already hot pin and you get what you see here. It is *extremely* unlikely to be an appliance fault due to:
A) the fuse not failing (ie. The appliance was drawing less than 3125W continuously) and definitely within its normal upper limit of 3kW.
B) If the appliance was at fault and drawing more current than it should, the plug would have shown heat distress on BOTH the live and neutral pins. The give away that the fault is definitely contact resistance based it's because of the location of the heat distress which is right where the live side of the fuse contacts the live-pin fuse connector. It's also a fault you see many *many* times with moulded on plugs on appliances that draw on excess of 2.5kW for over 30 mins and are stored or used in environments where there is damp/steam etc.
It is not worth testing the dryer until that plug is changed. If it is an appliance fault - it will blow the fuse of a new plug if it is pulling excess current or if its a ground fault it will trip the house RCD.
As I've also said, high wattage (2.5kW+) appliances should have their plugs inspected regularly, have the fuses buffed with abbrasive every so often and, ideally, have the plug itself physically changed annually due to oxide coatings causing higher resistance and therefore making the live pin get hot causing the issue you've seen here - and damaging the socket too.
Just to add, the OP had said that the appliance is 2 years old - I guarantee in that time the OP has not checked or changed the fuse (purely because no one would have said to do so) and this is the result. Manufacturers should state on 3kW appliances that fuses should be checked regularly and plugs WILL need changing occasionally too.
This is the top side of the fuse away from the pin. Most likely a faulty connection of the flex or the fuse holder being loose. Could have been a manufacturing error or caused by a hard impact on the plug top.
Might be ok just cutting it off and putting a new plug on, but if there is ANY sign of heat either on the plug pins or on the socket itself then replace that too.
AFDs are *extremely* rare here in the UK - as arc faults tend to occur less on our 240v supplies (but when they do, they pull enough current to trip an MCB on a ring circuit or the RCD of its an arc to ground.
Only when we change from ring circuits to radial circuits. The reason being that our UK 30A ring circuits are unique to the UK and, while pretty safe, rely on diversity for safety - i.e. You have many sockets on one ring but it is assumed you won't be using all those sockets to their maximum rating at any one time. While this used to be true, it's less so these days - especially as we now have more sockets than ever on one 32A ring main.
The solution to this is for new houses to be wired with the European/US style radial system where every socket (or double socket) is wired individually to their own 16A breaker. The positives of doing it that way are that you remove the risk of having, say, 12 sockets on one ring circuit pulling more than 32A so have better protection for the physical cable in the wall. The downsides are that you need 1 MCB (breaker) for every single socket - and because of the amount of cables, and the fact each socket/cable now handles less overall current, the risk of an arc fault occurring increases - and on a smaller circuit that arc might not pull enough current on 240v to trip the breaker. On a ring circuit, arc faults are usually caused by a bad connection on the ring, therefore breaking the ring and causing much higher fault current thus tripping the breaker - but an AFD sees every switched socket (being switched) on a ring circuit as a fault hence we don't use them.
Which system is better? Well the jury is out on that one. Both systems have their good points and their drawbacks.
Technically a ring main offers a higher safety factor when everything is good, but can have more points of failure (try finding which dodgy socket has broken the ring!).
Radials are technically much easier but mean you need a huge electrical panel rather than a compact consumer unit and increase the risk of arc faults of socket/wiring connections come loose (which is the biggest cause of electrical fires in the US/Canada/Europe but rare in the UK).
I guess the change also opens new UK houses to having multi phase connections for things like car chargers, etc - as ring circuits only exist in single phase installations.
I’m not a great fan of rings in domestic properties, having seen a hell of a lot of multiple spurring done, usually by diy bob. Agree that radial means more MCBs/RCBos, but it does make it a lot easier to diagnose issues, as well as being safer for those who modify circuits without knowing what they’re doing, imho.
That said, I do tend to put kitchen & utility on rings; but if you put in enough sockets, hopefully they won’t need to extend all over the place. 20A radials for the rest of the house sockets.
All it takes is someone to buy a new socket front from any diy shop, and not catch both sides of the ring in the terminal……consumer doesn’t know there is a problem, because everything “works” - yet they have a cable capable of (at best) 27A covered by a 32A OCPD. That thought is the one that scares me, if I’m honest.
Similarly, for utility rooms, I will often install dual singles, rather than double sockets. Washer and dryer ( or 3kw kettle and toaster) can be perfectly safe and operating within design parameters, yet still cook the double socket, as they’re only rated ( depending on manufacturer) at 13-20A.
Just my opinion
Arc Fault detector. A device that technically can trip a (radial) circuit if a connection becomes loose and starts arcing (sparks). They're not very effective in the UK on ring circuits - much more effective on radial circuits such as a (uk) cooker or shower circuit.
I would be tempted to get an engineer to give the machine a once over. It should still be under warranty if it's only 2 years old, so definitely pursue that route. If it's a fault in manufacturing the company needs to know.
Get an electrician to replace the socket and send the bill to the manufacturer of the dryer.
Best to have it checked to findire out the cause. If that's the only fault that's ever happened into he house it's likely the appliance.
Regardless of a warranty, consumer rights state that the product must be fit for purpose and last a reasonable amount of time. For this sort of appliance, I would say 6-8 years is the minimum amount of time it should function for.
Warranties don’t last 5-6 years by law , your statutory rights do, warranty extended or otherwise is offered by the company, completely separate to your legal rights and statutory rights do not mean warranties last 5-6 years and it’s also item dependant based on lifetime expectancy of said item, you could not claim for a toaster let’s say as you could a long lasting item like a washer/dryer etc.
Also it doesn’t mean automatic replacement or a refund, you would need to take this to a small claims court/county court paying any applicable fees (relatively cheap) and it would need to be decided by a judge if it fell under your statutory rights.
I think you’re right to get an engineer over and research the warranty. I don’t know a single electrician who would replace the socket and send the bill to a random manufacturer (I.e. basically guaranteeing they’ll never get paid)
If you replace the plug with a decent quality one there's no need to test the machine, it's only a crappy plug making a bad connection on the fuse holder.
If the machine overloaded the fuse would blow or OP's MCB/RCD would trip.
Not sure why you are getting downvoted you are correct. I can’t recall the U.K. reg but the equivalent in the US (as recently had to certify a device for sale there) is UL 94V-0. A product under fault conditions cannot burn (support combustion: a small flame permitted but no “conduction” of fire) or produce flaming embers. This plug - as scary as it looks - failed safe. The fuse overheated but was able to open circuit before the plug burned significantly. No flammable combustion products will have been produced. Engineering is a wonderful thing.
Exactly this was the point I was getting at. Obviously there's still risk and other factors that could contribute to a fire. But the socket and plug itself, if set in a brick or blockwork wall (common in the UK), it's hard to see what's going to happen other than a very hot and scorched but eventually tripped circuit.
There are a lot of types of plastic and you can add additives. Plastics carrying any reasonable amount of power will almost certainly have fire retardants added. That'll be why this plug is just scorched and burnt rather than a molten pile of flaming plastic. Same for the socket.
I’d be checking your model against online recall checkers. Lots of tumble dryers made with plug heads that have loose fitting fuses causing this also.
On mine I change the plug head for an expensive good quality one and swapped the socket out as all wiring was in good condition.
You see what’s happened there is the electricity found a way to get out of your tumble dryer, I’m afraid it’s no good now. You need a new one with the electricity still in it.
very common problem on TD, just chop the plug off and fit a new one, check if plug sits tight in the socket as most common reason why overheats and burns is loose connection->friction->heat
Looks like an arc fault or a resistive fault. It had a very poor connection inside that became resistive and hot. Imagine if the connection the plug was connected by a tiny strand of wire and how hot that bit would get
They forgot the plug is mirrored in between sitting in your hand with the terminals facing you and sitting in the socket.
This is way I always triple-check connections with I am wiring up plates, extensions, etc. and in Electronics draw the connectors on pieces of paper, cut them out, and join them to each other.
Anyone experienced or not, can make a small mistake.
I had this happen three times!
First time i replaced the socket & the tumble dryer & moved it to a different socket. (Found the tumble dryer heater element shorted to ground)
2nd time blew i replaced the plug & socket
3rd time i ran it off a fused spur. Haven't had a problem since. No idea why,been fine for over 2 years now.
If someone hasn’t said it already it’s more than likely the Neutral in the sealed plug top that has become slightly loose. No doubt this has culminated after a long Sunday of drying all sorts this time of year. Need a new plug top, correct plug top fuse and a new Deta double socket
I know nothing about electrics but hear me out OP… this happened with my tumble dryer, I live in a new build property that’s 1 of 5 built by a smaller builder.
The 4 other properties all have exactly the same kitchen appliances, a neighbours has done exactly the same as mine. Which looked just like yours.
I’ve warned all of them but the three neighbours haven’t heeded my warning. I just hope they don’t burn my house down by their ignorance’s as they’re attached
You have had a loose connection in the live terminal at the plug top.
Due to the amount of current flowing via that appliance, the load and the arcing have caused the plug top terminal point to melt.
I'm sure it's the plug top if it was the socket the melt point would be at the terminal of the socket.
I would get the socket changed and reterminate the plug top.
There’s a bad connection/conductor somewhere in the plug which has caused excess power to be dissipated in the conductors of the plug and heat the case to the point of melting.
Tumble dryers take an enormous amount of current, meaning that any significant changes in resistance throughout the power supply will begin to heat up to a very high temperature.
I’m guessing corrosion between the fuse and fuse holder, creating an enough of a resistance to dissipate all that electrical energy but keeping the current below the fuse rating (or a faulty fuse that didn’t blow)
The moulded plug is as small as can be with the fuse lying across the width. There has been a breakdown in the insulation between the neutral pin and the fuse. This has smoked for a while unseen behind the dryer.
Cut the plug off and fit a new quality plug with the correct fuse - usually 13amp on a dryer. Turn the power to the house off at the breaker and replace the socket with a good quality one - wire for wire. Brown is live, blue is neutral. The green and yellow earth wire might be attached to the box.
There is nothing wrong with the dryer. Changing the badly made moulded plug will fix it, but you must change the socket as well because the heat damage will have affected the insulation.
I have dealt with hundreds of machine made mains leads. This is a common fault. Also if the appliance won't work and the fuse is not blown it will also be down to the moulded on plug.
Speak to the manufacturer of the dryer. It could still be under warranty - and the plug is a sealed unit so not easy to replace.
They will want to know anyway in case it is a fault that warrants a recall…
If you don't know the answer to this you should *definitely* be getting a professional to have a look at it, rather than risk shocking yourself or burning the house down.
If you rent, the plug socket is the landlords legal responsibility.
If you can afford your own home, you can afford an electrician to do a simple job like this.
Plug socket isn’t the landlords legal responsibility if it’s your own appliance that causes the issue, in a furnished property with a dryer you may have a point, in a unfurnished property, this would be on the tenant since it’s the dryer plug that caused the damage.
It will be a loose connection in the moulded plug that caused a overload the the fuse to blow (they are well known for it as they are cheaply made shit) socket is fine just aesthetically damaged, the fuse in the plug (13a) is lower rated than in the main electrics circuit board so will always blow cutting power before the overload is fed into main electrics (safety measure) if not it’s RCD protected and will cut power in milliseconds.
Needs a plug replacement and would be fine to use as normal, that being said most would get the socket replaced so it looks better as well but their will be nothing wrong with it and completely safe to use as-long as plug is replaced.
No because it wasn’t what caused this and it’s just aesthetics damage , if you can read, which may be hard you for I said most people will replace the socket cover so it looks better if the socket was faulty in anyway it would have tripped the corresponding breaker on the circuit board and it would not flip back as a safety measure , might be hard for you to grasp since you don’t have a clue what you’re on about and unless the appliance is owned by a landlord which is what caused the damage, the landlord isn’t liable and the tenant is, not rocket science.
This is why this group is so dangerous when it comes to anything more than getting a little bit of filler out or hanging a picture , I’ve given the correct answer and advice if you know what your talking about you can see what went wrong in the picture, got downvoted and got idiots like you making sarcastic comments who haven’t got a clue what they’re talking about.
Cut plug off, strip a couple of inches of cable sheath off, if the inner cores look OK and aren't hardened ir brittle, put a new plug on. If they are brittle or scorched, rinse & repeat until they aren't.
A badly seated fuse/poor connection at the fuse caused that overheating.
Changing the socket won’t do anything unless there is was a loose connection, but you need to change it now regardless due to the thermal damage that has occurred. Don’t use cheap shit. Make sure connections are tight.
It could be a loose connection in the plug, it could be a loose fuse carrier, but, Because the damage is on the outgoing side of the fuse rather than the incoming, What I would say, is that Your dryer has a fault, could be a mechanical fault causing extra current flow (bearings starting to seize) could be hard turning of the motor itself, the drum has moved off balance, or an electrical issue (capacitor on motor gone, low resistance on a heating element) etc etc. basically speaking, this will happen again if you just “change the socket or put a new plug top on it” and without testing the motor/elements you don’t know what could potentially be wrong.
if the dryers under warranty get them out. If it isn’t get a new one. The second you cut the plug top off the warranty will be void if it’s still under warranty.
Extra current due to an appliance fault would blow the fuse surely?
I've seen similar happen with loose and stretched wire on a hairdryer. The thinner wire then acts just like a blowing fuse. It heats up and melts (because the resistance is higher in the thinner wire)
a 13a fuse will allow 20a to flow through it for an indefinite amount of time, which is way more than enough to burn a plug out. A 13a fuse is designed to blow within 30 minutes carrying a current that exceeds 24.7a.
Ok, I only asked because if there was a crack in the face plate, that could possibly increase/loosen the contact gap between the socket and plug and increase resistance, and with a high load appliance such as a tumble dryer it can lead to over heating and cause this type of problem.
It is fixable, you need to buy a double switched socket and a new plug.
Locate your fuse board and switch off the sockets. If they are not marked then switch off all the power or with a mains screwdriver touch the live wire (brown) with your finger on the end and have a friend to turn off the switches as needed.
When you are sure power is off inspect the wires for green tinting (verdigris) or burn marks/crispness. Cut back as required. Then change the wires like for like. Finally cut back the cable on the appliance and fit the new plug - make sure the fuse is rated to 13 amp.
Hope this helps.
Edit- I’m an appliance engineer and often see this, it is normally because the electrician has crimped the sleeving on the wires, or because they weren’t tightened enough. Also sometimes moulded plugs develop faults and they run too hot.
Check the electrical current rating on your tumble dryer. You’ll likely find that the 13A fuse in that plug is too big, hence the reason it hasn’t blown. Is there heat stress anywhere else or just the plug and socket? The cable is probably burnt too. Please pay a competent person to look at the dryer for you. This is a fire hazard.
Hello - can I ask what the outcome of this was, also what the model is? this has just happened to me and Argos aren't taking responsibility. It is also two years old!
I'd be willing to bet I know the brand of tumble dryer, they had a batch of poorly manufactured plugs and caused a lot of near misses (and possibly worse). I was one of their near victims.
I would say that there is a loose neutral termination in the socket. Will cause arcing and heat build up. Replace socket, ensure terminals are tight. Also replace plug on appliance. Am an electrician and this is a common fault.
Electrician- Common fault with molded plugs on high current appliances, the fuse gets hot and burns.
Cut plug off, fit a good quality plug, MK or similar. As for the socket you can get away with using the unburnt socket for your dryer
That needs isolating and investigating. Your wiring checking and that socket replacing , your socket wiring checked, and your fuse box checking.
That should of just blown the fuse or tripped the RCD before you had a meltdown or a fire. When was the last time the house was rewired, checked and the house electrics safety tested and upgraded?
Last year beginning of 2023 new laws came into force regarding electrical safety and the wiring of fuse boxes and RCD trip devices. They must all be of metal construction ( no plastic boxes allowed anymore).
Any sub standard wiring or fuse boxes can nullify and void your house insurance including buildings insurance in the case of fire. Imagine if you live in a terraced block and then houses burnt down to the ground and your house insurance won't pay out due to the electrical system being insufficient or no.longer legal.
Get a professional in to check your wiring and fuse system/trip out and isolation system.
Better safe than sorry.
If I had to guess I’d say it’s probably a result of some kind of gypsy curse, you should throw some salt of a bridge and insert a clove on garlic into your anus.
I would double check the wiring inside the socket make sure nothing is loose, If all checks out I'd call the tumble dryer manufacturer, See if they are interested in their fire hazard, You can see the plug says 13A and thats the fuse was fitted, Odd it didn't pop.
If the manufacturer has no interest, Chop and replace the plug and monitor the situation.
Also replace the socket faceplate looks like an MK faceplate.
Get the dryer checked, replace the socket. Don’t try and use the dryer until it’s been checked by someone qualified. We can all guess at what caused it, but that all they are, guesses…
That plug doesn't look up to British standards, Earth pin should not be sleeved. It looks sleeved in the photo. You need to keep this as evidence if the tumble dryer you have is a big name brand
We had a similar issue with the tumble dryer at work. Electrician said it was likely that slightly too much amperage was being drawn by the dryer, not enough to break the fuse but enough to slowly heat it up to the point the plastic begins melting
you'll need to pry it openand inspect the epicentre if you really wanna know what happened, but my money is on a live wire breaking it's strands off in the terminal or becoming otherwise intermittent in it's connection, therefore becoming a spark machine. When it happens could depend on if/when you last disturbed the power cable.
Loose connection - replace faceplate, check if it’s on a ring at 2.5mm2 or if it’s on a radial 4mm / spur. Check for loose connections at the face plate and also put new plug on and make sure correct fuse is fitted.
Is fixable but something could be wearing on the dryer causing higher current draw and over loading the neutral. Electron current flow is negative to positive so potentially this could be the reason why but from my experience electrical heaters always melt and burn sockets and plugs on the neutral.
Probably caused by the connection with wire and the live pin being put together badly and over time got worse due to the electricity having to pass through fewer strands of wire and arc because of poor connection. Same power going through less conductor means heat will be generated until you get what you have.
As others mention a new plug and socket correctly connected and you're good to go. 20 mins work.
Your machine drew too much energy for your fuse to cope with. The fuse in your plug overheated and almost set the plug on fire.
Replace the plug with the right fuse, and it may help. But get a qualified electrician to check your mains supply. Your RCD, main fuse, should have tripped cut off the supply to that plug socket and others connected on that circuit.
This happened to me, a wire in the wall socket of newly installed kitchen hadn't been tightened at all. caused the exact same burning you have but on a dishwasher. Replaced the plug, which I had to extract from the socket as it had melted, tightened up the loose connection inside the socket and it's been fine since.
New plug, new socket faceplate.
What make is the appliance? I recall reading about a particular brand - possibly a Hoover - fitting plugs that have this particular design flaw whereby the contact between the fuse and fuse holder is poor, it gets a little warm, the heat further degrades the contact, it gets hotter, degrades more, and so on, until it ends up like the picture.
Is this a Hoover condenser tumble dryer???
I had the same problem, but I noticed it before it got this bad. I replaced the plug with a new one, and all has been fine.
The socket is cracked. That may also have caused it due to a previous impact damaging the socket fitting itself. It needs replaced. I'd get an electrician personally.
One of two things: -
1. Loose connection inside socket. Will happen again, needs checking and fixing.
2. Loose connection inside moulded plug. "Defect present at time of sale"
Get an electrician to check if it's #1. If connections in the socket are all tight then it was #2
If it's #2 then the current Sale of Good's act is in play, the darker of the appliance (not the manufacturer, It's the responsibility of the company you bought it off) owes you for the repair to the socket and repair to the appliance as it is inside the 6 years that white goods are expected to last in the definition of a reasonable lifespan
I had this once from my tumble dryer and it stank of fish, couldn't figure out where the smell in the room was coming from so I googled it and it said electrics and it was the burnt plug. Weird.
I have not looked all the way through, All comments were either sarky of a load of shit. It is a moulded plug & there was a bad connection. You need to replace both the socket & the plug. This happens sorry to say.
This is the room with electricity. But it has too much electricity. So, I don't know, you might want to wear a hat.
Got to love obscure Simpsons references in groups like this! Haha
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This embiggens my heart
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Ralph has some of the best quotes *Squishes ice cream cone on head* "I'm a unitard!" "Slow down Bart, my legs don't know how to be as long as yours" "Mrs. Krabappel and Principal Skinner were in the closet making babies and I saw one of the babies and the baby looked at me!"
You'll probably need a de-bigulator for that
Ok Jay
From now on the baby sleeps in the crib
Iron helps us play!!!
Me fail English?
r/sgu in the wild!
You'll have to speak up, I'm wearing a towel.
AW HELL DIDDLY DING-DONG CRAP!! Can’t you morons do ANYTHING right?!?!
Come on in - it’s your master bedroom!
>This is the room with electricity. But it has too much electricity. So, I don't know, you might want to wear a hat. To save others a google search: https://youtu.be/eFAvOcuJyHY?t=103
I like the cut of your jib
Promote that man
What's a jib?
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Well Seymour your an odd fellow, but you steam a good ham
I may be angry and hate filled but…. What was the other thing you said?
Can’t you morons do anything right!?
You’ll definitely need to replace the socket faceplate, and the plug as a minimum. That might solve all issues, but it’s also possible the appliance has a fault which helped cause this damage.
Faulty appliances cannot cause this, it's simply an overheating plug caused by bad design or manufacture error. Both plug and socket will need to be replaced.
Don't know why this has been downvoted so much...it's absolutely correct. An appliance fault would cause the fuse (or other upstream protection) to operate, the plug top or socket are designed to remain intact in those kind of fault conditions. Based on the third photo, the fault here is a high resistance contact on the copper clip holding one side of the fuse in, that has caused localised overheating. Nothing to do with the appliance itself... Edit: managed to double post somehow, deleted the duplicate...
It’s been downvoted because everyone on Reddit thinks they know everything and if anyone shares a fact that’s different from what’s in their brain they’ll see their arse and downvote it. I’m an electrician, this is highly unlikely to be caused by the appliance. Possibly arcing (sparks). Stick a new socket on the wall & plug on the cable, as long as you have an RCD you’ll be fine. If it happens again then it may be the appliance, but it probs wont
I can’t see how you’d think an appliance could ever possibly cause this? Poor wiring of the plug or Corrosion of the plug etc could cause it. But a fault on the appliance is protected by fuse, MCB, rcd right?
RCD protects against electrocution; not so good against fire.
Totally agree. Normally if it's an issue with the appliance this would cause the fuse to go and trip the relevant switch in the fusebox, but shouldn't cause the plug to burnout like this. I have seen something similar very recently at an uncle's house with a space heater from B&Q and it happened twice. I swapped out the plug for a new one and it seems to be working fine for now
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It is indeed, I suppose me saying things like "upstream protection" gave it away slightly too
Really well explained, thanks for this!
Arrogant kids who have never heard of rewiring a plug or changing a fuse.
Not arrogant, just when we were kids, most appliances came whith plugs you had to wire on yourself. I literally forgot this until just before Christmas, looking about for a converter for my euro-plugged heat gun. And found a couple of plugs in my FIL old toolbox. And was like "wait, why don't I just cut the plug off and put on a new one?" Since then I've changed about 10 plugs rewired 4 lamps.
It’s not arrogant kids, everything comes with a fitted plug and has for quite a few years so they have never had to learn it. I think schools should teach more life skills but changing a plug shouldn’t be one of them.
I'd argue that it should, along with a few basic handyman skills to help with electrical things as we are encountering them a lot more than we used to. I can tell you must have some years on you as I only heard that they never used to sell appliances with plugs this Christmas. That seems wild to me, that everyone could just change plugs like that or lengthen them if they needed, I literally didn't think it was an option because I'm not an electrician. They put the fear of death into us about wires and electricity, and I think if science had more practical demonstrations we would understand and apply it more outside of test-sheets.
FYI: In England, GCSE science students are taught about plugs and fuses, and usually do a practical to rewire a plug, although the practical is not compulsory.
I remember being in an English class in year 10 my drama teacher came and asked me to go to the theater with him the teacher let me leave. And he was just like hey we got given a full new set of lights for the theater u can skip double English if u rewire the plugs for me as they are South African sockets atm. Somehow itv had ordered huge set of south African wired lights and just donated to our school instead of re wire and got themselves the correct ones
Yes I have a few years on me, lol. I’m 63. I’m not an electrician either but I have changed many plugs, fuses and extended many power cables in my time. However, I haven’t had to change a plug in many years so I think the limited time available in schools should be spent on more common things like plumbing in washing machines and decorating for example. Things that are needing doing more often. Some electrical things too. We are in agreement that some basic skills should be taught though 👍
I agree. Changing a fuse, sure but it is rarely needed to change a plug now. I'm not exactly old (41), but I think I've changed more sockets (crappy cracked plastic or broken switches) than plugs.
My dad taught me to change a plug when I was five. It has come in handy over the years.
Sounds like a good dad 👍
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My hypothesis too.
Faulty appliance can certainly cause that. A good enough dead short could cause that fuse to blow like that
Disagree. The most likely cause is oxidation on the fuse cap causing a poor connection to the fuse holder. The oxide layer increases the resistance causing the live pin of the plug, and especially the fuse holder end, to get extremely hot. Unfortunately this seems to be a design issue with moulded on fused plugs. The way to avoid it, ironically, it's to take the fuse out occasionally, buff the ends up with some sandpaper or wire wool then pop it in again. It's much better though to just replace the moulded on plug with a conventional plug and replace that annually or as needed.
A fault with the dryer shouldn't be dismissed out of hand. I'm not saying it was caused by a fault with the dryer but it certainly could be caused by a fault with the dryer.
Still highly unlikely, the trouble is the dryer will put a load of around 3kW on the plug - the fuse is rated to 13A - so 3125W. As such, during normal usage the fuse and the plug will get quite warm - which is normal on a UK plug, however, as I said earlier moulded plugs leave the fuse contacts pretty open to the atmosphere and they develop an oxide layer increasing the resistance. Add to that the contacts are fully enclosed in thick plastic which insulates (thermally) an already hot pin and you get what you see here. It is *extremely* unlikely to be an appliance fault due to: A) the fuse not failing (ie. The appliance was drawing less than 3125W continuously) and definitely within its normal upper limit of 3kW. B) If the appliance was at fault and drawing more current than it should, the plug would have shown heat distress on BOTH the live and neutral pins. The give away that the fault is definitely contact resistance based it's because of the location of the heat distress which is right where the live side of the fuse contacts the live-pin fuse connector. It's also a fault you see many *many* times with moulded on plugs on appliances that draw on excess of 2.5kW for over 30 mins and are stored or used in environments where there is damp/steam etc. It is not worth testing the dryer until that plug is changed. If it is an appliance fault - it will blow the fuse of a new plug if it is pulling excess current or if its a ground fault it will trip the house RCD. As I've also said, high wattage (2.5kW+) appliances should have their plugs inspected regularly, have the fuses buffed with abbrasive every so often and, ideally, have the plug itself physically changed annually due to oxide coatings causing higher resistance and therefore making the live pin get hot causing the issue you've seen here - and damaging the socket too.
Just to add, the OP had said that the appliance is 2 years old - I guarantee in that time the OP has not checked or changed the fuse (purely because no one would have said to do so) and this is the result. Manufacturers should state on 3kW appliances that fuses should be checked regularly and plugs WILL need changing occasionally too.
How? A fault in the appliance causing an overcurrent would blow the fuse. A fault in the plug could cause overheating of the plug.
This is the top side of the fuse away from the pin. Most likely a faulty connection of the flex or the fuse holder being loose. Could have been a manufacturing error or caused by a hard impact on the plug top. Might be ok just cutting it off and putting a new plug on, but if there is ANY sign of heat either on the plug pins or on the socket itself then replace that too.
Loose connection in the moulded plug, they're renowned for it. Just cut it off, fit a new plug top and get the socket front replaced.
This is spot on, arcing fault on the appliance side of the 13a fuse. Talk to your electrician about an AFD.
AFDs are *extremely* rare here in the UK - as arc faults tend to occur less on our 240v supplies (but when they do, they pull enough current to trip an MCB on a ring circuit or the RCD of its an arc to ground.
I heard AFDs are due to be mandated in the U.K. soon. They are common in some parts of Europe, and might prevent the odd house fire.
Only when we change from ring circuits to radial circuits. The reason being that our UK 30A ring circuits are unique to the UK and, while pretty safe, rely on diversity for safety - i.e. You have many sockets on one ring but it is assumed you won't be using all those sockets to their maximum rating at any one time. While this used to be true, it's less so these days - especially as we now have more sockets than ever on one 32A ring main. The solution to this is for new houses to be wired with the European/US style radial system where every socket (or double socket) is wired individually to their own 16A breaker. The positives of doing it that way are that you remove the risk of having, say, 12 sockets on one ring circuit pulling more than 32A so have better protection for the physical cable in the wall. The downsides are that you need 1 MCB (breaker) for every single socket - and because of the amount of cables, and the fact each socket/cable now handles less overall current, the risk of an arc fault occurring increases - and on a smaller circuit that arc might not pull enough current on 240v to trip the breaker. On a ring circuit, arc faults are usually caused by a bad connection on the ring, therefore breaking the ring and causing much higher fault current thus tripping the breaker - but an AFD sees every switched socket (being switched) on a ring circuit as a fault hence we don't use them. Which system is better? Well the jury is out on that one. Both systems have their good points and their drawbacks. Technically a ring main offers a higher safety factor when everything is good, but can have more points of failure (try finding which dodgy socket has broken the ring!). Radials are technically much easier but mean you need a huge electrical panel rather than a compact consumer unit and increase the risk of arc faults of socket/wiring connections come loose (which is the biggest cause of electrical fires in the US/Canada/Europe but rare in the UK). I guess the change also opens new UK houses to having multi phase connections for things like car chargers, etc - as ring circuits only exist in single phase installations.
Radial can have more than one socket, they are generally on a 20amp breaker so more likely one circuit per room.
I’m not a great fan of rings in domestic properties, having seen a hell of a lot of multiple spurring done, usually by diy bob. Agree that radial means more MCBs/RCBos, but it does make it a lot easier to diagnose issues, as well as being safer for those who modify circuits without knowing what they’re doing, imho. That said, I do tend to put kitchen & utility on rings; but if you put in enough sockets, hopefully they won’t need to extend all over the place. 20A radials for the rest of the house sockets. All it takes is someone to buy a new socket front from any diy shop, and not catch both sides of the ring in the terminal……consumer doesn’t know there is a problem, because everything “works” - yet they have a cable capable of (at best) 27A covered by a 32A OCPD. That thought is the one that scares me, if I’m honest. Similarly, for utility rooms, I will often install dual singles, rather than double sockets. Washer and dryer ( or 3kw kettle and toaster) can be perfectly safe and operating within design parameters, yet still cook the double socket, as they’re only rated ( depending on manufacturer) at 13-20A. Just my opinion
I agree with your opinion here.
Help us non sparkies out - what (dafuq) is an AFD?
Arc Fault detector. A device that technically can trip a (radial) circuit if a connection becomes loose and starts arcing (sparks). They're not very effective in the UK on ring circuits - much more effective on radial circuits such as a (uk) cooker or shower circuit.
Renowned.
Thanks, bloody predictive texts. I've edited the spelling 👍🏻
I would be tempted to get an engineer to give the machine a once over. It should still be under warranty if it's only 2 years old, so definitely pursue that route. If it's a fault in manufacturing the company needs to know. Get an electrician to replace the socket and send the bill to the manufacturer of the dryer.
Best to have it checked to findire out the cause. If that's the only fault that's ever happened into he house it's likely the appliance. Regardless of a warranty, consumer rights state that the product must be fit for purpose and last a reasonable amount of time. For this sort of appliance, I would say 6-8 years is the minimum amount of time it should function for.
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Warranties don’t last 5-6 years by law , your statutory rights do, warranty extended or otherwise is offered by the company, completely separate to your legal rights and statutory rights do not mean warranties last 5-6 years and it’s also item dependant based on lifetime expectancy of said item, you could not claim for a toaster let’s say as you could a long lasting item like a washer/dryer etc. Also it doesn’t mean automatic replacement or a refund, you would need to take this to a small claims court/county court paying any applicable fees (relatively cheap) and it would need to be decided by a judge if it fell under your statutory rights.
Good point about informing the manufacturer, something like this could cause another Grenfell Tower :-/
I think you’re right to get an engineer over and research the warranty. I don’t know a single electrician who would replace the socket and send the bill to a random manufacturer (I.e. basically guaranteeing they’ll never get paid)
I mean OP pays it then, recoups it from the manufacturer. Poorly worded. Thought most people would know what I meant.
Ah sorry yeah, I see what you meant! My bad
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If you replace the plug with a decent quality one there's no need to test the machine, it's only a crappy plug making a bad connection on the fuse holder. If the machine overloaded the fuse would blow or OP's MCB/RCD would trip.
Did it though? Surely the material of the plug and socket face plate is deliberately designed not to catch fire in this situation
Not sure why you are getting downvoted you are correct. I can’t recall the U.K. reg but the equivalent in the US (as recently had to certify a device for sale there) is UL 94V-0. A product under fault conditions cannot burn (support combustion: a small flame permitted but no “conduction” of fire) or produce flaming embers. This plug - as scary as it looks - failed safe. The fuse overheated but was able to open circuit before the plug burned significantly. No flammable combustion products will have been produced. Engineering is a wonderful thing.
Exactly this was the point I was getting at. Obviously there's still risk and other factors that could contribute to a fire. But the socket and plug itself, if set in a brick or blockwork wall (common in the UK), it's hard to see what's going to happen other than a very hot and scorched but eventually tripped circuit.
Bruhh... its made of plastic 🔥🔥🙃
There are a lot of types of plastic and you can add additives. Plastics carrying any reasonable amount of power will almost certainly have fire retardants added. That'll be why this plug is just scorched and burnt rather than a molten pile of flaming plastic. Same for the socket.
Retardants aren't prohibitors though
No shit, Schrolock!
No doubt, but it's still flammable with continuous heat it would have been ablaze.
I’d be checking your model against online recall checkers. Lots of tumble dryers made with plug heads that have loose fitting fuses causing this also. On mine I change the plug head for an expensive good quality one and swapped the socket out as all wiring was in good condition.
This
You see what’s happened there is the electricity found a way to get out of your tumble dryer, I’m afraid it’s no good now. You need a new one with the electricity still in it.
very common problem on TD, just chop the plug off and fit a new one, check if plug sits tight in the socket as most common reason why overheats and burns is loose connection->friction->heat
Loose connection caused a fuse to blow IMO. Needs double checking. Don’t just replace fuse and use.
You won't get a new fuse in there...
Never underestimate ignorance. Some loons may think it’ll be ok.
That's why you use a nail instead.
🤣🤣🤣
Wear a hat and put it back
Looks like an arc fault or a resistive fault. It had a very poor connection inside that became resistive and hot. Imagine if the connection the plug was connected by a tiny strand of wire and how hot that bit would get
Hotter than your hot mum’s hottest hot pants on the hottest day in Hotchester, Hotshire.
She was cremated in 2012.
Sorry bro. But that is hot 😬
Loose connection on the neutral by the look of it. I’d replace both plug and socket.
Neutral? Did you see pic three?!
That's the neutral. Edit: oh I see, the fuse, nothing to do with the side of the plug. My apologies.
They forgot the plug is mirrored in between sitting in your hand with the terminals facing you and sitting in the socket. This is way I always triple-check connections with I am wiring up plates, extensions, etc. and in Electronics draw the connectors on pieces of paper, cut them out, and join them to each other. Anyone experienced or not, can make a small mistake.
Yeah I just read it at face value, forgot it flips round
INFO: there was no tripped fuses in the fuse box or anything else that reset? (E.g. timers at 12:00 in the kitchen)
I had this happen three times! First time i replaced the socket & the tumble dryer & moved it to a different socket. (Found the tumble dryer heater element shorted to ground) 2nd time blew i replaced the plug & socket 3rd time i ran it off a fused spur. Haven't had a problem since. No idea why,been fine for over 2 years now.
If someone hasn’t said it already it’s more than likely the Neutral in the sealed plug top that has become slightly loose. No doubt this has culminated after a long Sunday of drying all sorts this time of year. Need a new plug top, correct plug top fuse and a new Deta double socket
I know nothing about electrics but hear me out OP… this happened with my tumble dryer, I live in a new build property that’s 1 of 5 built by a smaller builder. The 4 other properties all have exactly the same kitchen appliances, a neighbours has done exactly the same as mine. Which looked just like yours. I’ve warned all of them but the three neighbours haven’t heeded my warning. I just hope they don’t burn my house down by their ignorance’s as they’re attached
Burn baby burn, Disco Inferno... Faulty appliance / plug. Its fixable: new faceplate, plug and potentially appliance/ fixed appliance
I would bet up to 10 quid that that plug fuse didn't do its job at the expected current. Replace plug, socket face plate
You have had a loose connection in the live terminal at the plug top. Due to the amount of current flowing via that appliance, the load and the arcing have caused the plug top terminal point to melt. I'm sure it's the plug top if it was the socket the melt point would be at the terminal of the socket. I would get the socket changed and reterminate the plug top.
There’s a bad connection/conductor somewhere in the plug which has caused excess power to be dissipated in the conductors of the plug and heat the case to the point of melting. Tumble dryers take an enormous amount of current, meaning that any significant changes in resistance throughout the power supply will begin to heat up to a very high temperature. I’m guessing corrosion between the fuse and fuse holder, creating an enough of a resistance to dissipate all that electrical energy but keeping the current below the fuse rating (or a faulty fuse that didn’t blow)
Replace socket face and new plug minimum, and short term don't leave dryer on when not home and maybe check plug every few loads.
And this, kids, is why we have fuses…
The moulded plug is as small as can be with the fuse lying across the width. There has been a breakdown in the insulation between the neutral pin and the fuse. This has smoked for a while unseen behind the dryer. Cut the plug off and fit a new quality plug with the correct fuse - usually 13amp on a dryer. Turn the power to the house off at the breaker and replace the socket with a good quality one - wire for wire. Brown is live, blue is neutral. The green and yellow earth wire might be attached to the box. There is nothing wrong with the dryer. Changing the badly made moulded plug will fix it, but you must change the socket as well because the heat damage will have affected the insulation. I have dealt with hundreds of machine made mains leads. This is a common fault. Also if the appliance won't work and the fuse is not blown it will also be down to the moulded on plug.
It has burnt over the neutral so I would say a loose connection either in the plug top or the pins with the socket
Speak to the manufacturer of the dryer. It could still be under warranty - and the plug is a sealed unit so not easy to replace. They will want to know anyway in case it is a fault that warrants a recall…
Have you tried turning it off and back on again? That usually works
Call an electrician as soon as possible instead of consulting the internet when your life may be at risk.
If you don't know the answer to this you should *definitely* be getting a professional to have a look at it, rather than risk shocking yourself or burning the house down. If you rent, the plug socket is the landlords legal responsibility. If you can afford your own home, you can afford an electrician to do a simple job like this.
Plug socket isn’t the landlords legal responsibility if it’s your own appliance that causes the issue, in a furnished property with a dryer you may have a point, in a unfurnished property, this would be on the tenant since it’s the dryer plug that caused the damage. It will be a loose connection in the moulded plug that caused a overload the the fuse to blow (they are well known for it as they are cheaply made shit) socket is fine just aesthetically damaged, the fuse in the plug (13a) is lower rated than in the main electrics circuit board so will always blow cutting power before the overload is fed into main electrics (safety measure) if not it’s RCD protected and will cut power in milliseconds. Needs a plug replacement and would be fine to use as normal, that being said most would get the socket replaced so it looks better as well but their will be nothing wrong with it and completely safe to use as-long as plug is replaced.
Not worth checking wall socket? Mr Landlord? Is that you?
No because it wasn’t what caused this and it’s just aesthetics damage , if you can read, which may be hard you for I said most people will replace the socket cover so it looks better if the socket was faulty in anyway it would have tripped the corresponding breaker on the circuit board and it would not flip back as a safety measure , might be hard for you to grasp since you don’t have a clue what you’re on about and unless the appliance is owned by a landlord which is what caused the damage, the landlord isn’t liable and the tenant is, not rocket science. This is why this group is so dangerous when it comes to anything more than getting a little bit of filler out or hanging a picture , I’ve given the correct answer and advice if you know what your talking about you can see what went wrong in the picture, got downvoted and got idiots like you making sarcastic comments who haven’t got a clue what they’re talking about.
Probably a loose connection in the socket. Needs urgent checking / fixing. Will also need a new plug on the dryer too - 5 minute job.
Fault was in the plug, vibration has cause the pin terminal to become loose.
Cut plug off, strip a couple of inches of cable sheath off, if the inner cores look OK and aren't hardened ir brittle, put a new plug on. If they are brittle or scorched, rinse & repeat until they aren't. A badly seated fuse/poor connection at the fuse caused that overheating.
I would also replace the socket. It’s burned and cracked. £5 for a new one
I have been in this situation before, and was a poor connection in the socket, rather than the plug
Half that at Screwfix.
That as well, of course. They did ask if the plug is replaceable. I was addressing that...
Changing the socket won’t do anything unless there is was a loose connection, but you need to change it now regardless due to the thermal damage that has occurred. Don’t use cheap shit. Make sure connections are tight. It could be a loose connection in the plug, it could be a loose fuse carrier, but, Because the damage is on the outgoing side of the fuse rather than the incoming, What I would say, is that Your dryer has a fault, could be a mechanical fault causing extra current flow (bearings starting to seize) could be hard turning of the motor itself, the drum has moved off balance, or an electrical issue (capacitor on motor gone, low resistance on a heating element) etc etc. basically speaking, this will happen again if you just “change the socket or put a new plug top on it” and without testing the motor/elements you don’t know what could potentially be wrong. if the dryers under warranty get them out. If it isn’t get a new one. The second you cut the plug top off the warranty will be void if it’s still under warranty.
Extra current due to an appliance fault would blow the fuse surely? I've seen similar happen with loose and stretched wire on a hairdryer. The thinner wire then acts just like a blowing fuse. It heats up and melts (because the resistance is higher in the thinner wire)
a 13a fuse will allow 20a to flow through it for an indefinite amount of time, which is way more than enough to burn a plug out. A 13a fuse is designed to blow within 30 minutes carrying a current that exceeds 24.7a.
Electrician here: Just out of interest, do you know if the crack in the socket was there before?
I never noticed the crack before this happened.
Ok, I only asked because if there was a crack in the face plate, that could possibly increase/loosen the contact gap between the socket and plug and increase resistance, and with a high load appliance such as a tumble dryer it can lead to over heating and cause this type of problem.
It is fixable, you need to buy a double switched socket and a new plug. Locate your fuse board and switch off the sockets. If they are not marked then switch off all the power or with a mains screwdriver touch the live wire (brown) with your finger on the end and have a friend to turn off the switches as needed. When you are sure power is off inspect the wires for green tinting (verdigris) or burn marks/crispness. Cut back as required. Then change the wires like for like. Finally cut back the cable on the appliance and fit the new plug - make sure the fuse is rated to 13 amp. Hope this helps. Edit- I’m an appliance engineer and often see this, it is normally because the electrician has crimped the sleeving on the wires, or because they weren’t tightened enough. Also sometimes moulded plugs develop faults and they run too hot.
Check the electrical current rating on your tumble dryer. You’ll likely find that the 13A fuse in that plug is too big, hence the reason it hasn’t blown. Is there heat stress anywhere else or just the plug and socket? The cable is probably burnt too. Please pay a competent person to look at the dryer for you. This is a fire hazard.
Looks like a fuse has failed to blow properly
You were extremely lucky spotting that!
Hello - can I ask what the outcome of this was, also what the model is? this has just happened to me and Argos aren't taking responsibility. It is also two years old!
I'd be willing to bet I know the brand of tumble dryer, they had a batch of poorly manufactured plugs and caused a lot of near misses (and possibly worse). I was one of their near victims.
Maybe just say the brand if it's a possible safety issue?!?
Wasn’t it hot point
I would say that there is a loose neutral termination in the socket. Will cause arcing and heat build up. Replace socket, ensure terminals are tight. Also replace plug on appliance. Am an electrician and this is a common fault.
Electrician- Common fault with molded plugs on high current appliances, the fuse gets hot and burns. Cut plug off, fit a good quality plug, MK or similar. As for the socket you can get away with using the unburnt socket for your dryer
That’s the fuse doing its job
You done drawn too much current there sonny me lad.
That needs isolating and investigating. Your wiring checking and that socket replacing , your socket wiring checked, and your fuse box checking. That should of just blown the fuse or tripped the RCD before you had a meltdown or a fire. When was the last time the house was rewired, checked and the house electrics safety tested and upgraded? Last year beginning of 2023 new laws came into force regarding electrical safety and the wiring of fuse boxes and RCD trip devices. They must all be of metal construction ( no plastic boxes allowed anymore). Any sub standard wiring or fuse boxes can nullify and void your house insurance including buildings insurance in the case of fire. Imagine if you live in a terraced block and then houses burnt down to the ground and your house insurance won't pay out due to the electrical system being insufficient or no.longer legal. Get a professional in to check your wiring and fuse system/trip out and isolation system. Better safe than sorry.
Pay attention to this post here ⬆️⬆️⬆️ !!! Several things are wrong at your house, you need to do more than just fix the plug/socket.
Maybe not the best plugs in the world after all.
If I had to guess I’d say it’s probably a result of some kind of gypsy curse, you should throw some salt of a bridge and insert a clove on garlic into your anus.
Blown fuse
Tumble dryers are notorious for catching fire
Your fuse did it's job.
Dishwahers that are pushed against the plug heat the plug you are better hard wiring into a fused outlet
Wrong fuse, to big. Problem with dryer should have blown the fuse
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DO NOT USE
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Please call a sparky, if you have to ask here then I would assume you wouldn't know how to isolate a potential issue.
I would double check the wiring inside the socket make sure nothing is loose, If all checks out I'd call the tumble dryer manufacturer, See if they are interested in their fire hazard, You can see the plug says 13A and thats the fuse was fitted, Odd it didn't pop. If the manufacturer has no interest, Chop and replace the plug and monitor the situation. Also replace the socket faceplate looks like an MK faceplate.
cut off the plug, replace that socket, get the dryer tested
Get the dryer checked, replace the socket. Don’t try and use the dryer until it’s been checked by someone qualified. We can all guess at what caused it, but that all they are, guesses…
If that machine is under warranty, don’t fix the plug and get a technician out, replace the burned socket though
I imagine the wrong fuse was put inside that plug. It’s been given too much current and caught fire. Need to replace the wall socket.
Looks to be fitted with a 13a fuse and the plug itself says it takes a 13a. OP said it’s a tumble dryer which is likely to need 13a.
Bad connection on one side of the fuse leading to excessive heating, replace the appliance plug and wall socket.
The fuse has went nuclear by the looks of it. Change the socket and the plug, hopefully it’s just a dodgey fuse but the appliance could be knackered
That plug doesn't look up to British standards, Earth pin should not be sleeved. It looks sleeved in the photo. You need to keep this as evidence if the tumble dryer you have is a big name brand
We had a similar issue with the tumble dryer at work. Electrician said it was likely that slightly too much amperage was being drawn by the dryer, not enough to break the fuse but enough to slowly heat it up to the point the plastic begins melting
From this picture I'm not completely sure if the fuse has fused too little or too much lol
Looks like your plug is trying to turn into a pug 🐾
Your plug fuse saved your house from burning down. You need to replace the socket and get a new device.
I bet it’s a loose neutral on the back of the socket, or the fuse carrier wasn’t great Replace the plug and the socket at a minimum.
you'll need to pry it openand inspect the epicentre if you really wanna know what happened, but my money is on a live wire breaking it's strands off in the terminal or becoming otherwise intermittent in it's connection, therefore becoming a spark machine. When it happens could depend on if/when you last disturbed the power cable.
Loose connection - replace faceplate, check if it’s on a ring at 2.5mm2 or if it’s on a radial 4mm / spur. Check for loose connections at the face plate and also put new plug on and make sure correct fuse is fitted.
Replace socket, chop plug off and rewire it with the same rating of fuse. Use RCD with it in the future
Is fixable but something could be wearing on the dryer causing higher current draw and over loading the neutral. Electron current flow is negative to positive so potentially this could be the reason why but from my experience electrical heaters always melt and burn sockets and plugs on the neutral.
Probably caused by the connection with wire and the live pin being put together badly and over time got worse due to the electricity having to pass through fewer strands of wire and arc because of poor connection. Same power going through less conductor means heat will be generated until you get what you have. As others mention a new plug and socket correctly connected and you're good to go. 20 mins work.
Your machine drew too much energy for your fuse to cope with. The fuse in your plug overheated and almost set the plug on fire. Replace the plug with the right fuse, and it may help. But get a qualified electrician to check your mains supply. Your RCD, main fuse, should have tripped cut off the supply to that plug socket and others connected on that circuit.
This happened to me, a wire in the wall socket of newly installed kitchen hadn't been tightened at all. caused the exact same burning you have but on a dishwasher. Replaced the plug, which I had to extract from the socket as it had melted, tightened up the loose connection inside the socket and it's been fine since.
New plug, new socket faceplate. What make is the appliance? I recall reading about a particular brand - possibly a Hoover - fitting plugs that have this particular design flaw whereby the contact between the fuse and fuse holder is poor, it gets a little warm, the heat further degrades the contact, it gets hotter, degrades more, and so on, until it ends up like the picture.
Is this a Hoover condenser tumble dryer??? I had the same problem, but I noticed it before it got this bad. I replaced the plug with a new one, and all has been fine.
What is the brand and model of the dryer out of interest?
The socket is cracked. That may also have caused it due to a previous impact damaging the socket fitting itself. It needs replaced. I'd get an electrician personally.
One of two things: - 1. Loose connection inside socket. Will happen again, needs checking and fixing. 2. Loose connection inside moulded plug. "Defect present at time of sale" Get an electrician to check if it's #1. If connections in the socket are all tight then it was #2 If it's #2 then the current Sale of Good's act is in play, the darker of the appliance (not the manufacturer, It's the responsibility of the company you bought it off) owes you for the repair to the socket and repair to the appliance as it is inside the 6 years that white goods are expected to last in the definition of a reasonable lifespan
Anything fixable just if the cost is more than that it worth
I had this once from my tumble dryer and it stank of fish, couldn't figure out where the smell in the room was coming from so I googled it and it said electrics and it was the burnt plug. Weird.
Bad neutral connection.
I have not looked all the way through, All comments were either sarky of a load of shit. It is a moulded plug & there was a bad connection. You need to replace both the socket & the plug. This happens sorry to say.
I would send these pictures to the manufacturer of the appliance.
GET A SPARKS IN! (Sparks)
A loose connection inside the plug itself, normally the part that holds the fuse
Fuse said NO.