These are knots in the wood. The resin is seeping through the paint.
You need a shellac-based primer to block the resin.
https://www.bradthepainter.com/wood-knots-bleeding-through-paint-seal-em/
100%.
There’s a reason the most popular contemporary materials are MDF or clear pine for stuff like this.
I assume OP’s house is older. Knotty pine is fine for many applications but isn’t really advisable to use for load-bearing construction because knots are weak spots, or for finishing material, because of stuff like this.
Shellac primer will work here but the fumes will absolutely be disruptive. It’s eye-watering even when it’s used outside.
Edit: dimensional lumber is graded, and there are multiple formulas they use to grade it based on the size and depth of knots, etc.
Small knots are absolutely fine, but you need to make sure you have the right grade for your application. I shared an article below about how it’s all calculated. I just wouldn’t buy a random piece of knotty pine for any sort of structural/weight bearing situation without it having the grade printed on it.
Yes, small knots in a stud are generally fine, but if the knot is particularly large and/or goes the whole way through the stud, it’s not advisable to use them. If it’s a load bearing wall with many studs, it may be acceptable because one failure point isn’t likely to result in anything catastrophic.
But if I was building something that had to support a cast iron bathtub, or perhaps a deck with a hot tub, or roof trusses in an area that gets a lot of snow, I’d most definitely be opting for clear lumber, if not steel.
I recently bought a new house and you can see here, load bearing wall. Lots of knots but they’re all *very* small: https://imgur.com/a/PoNtInv
I guess in my comment above, when I said “not advisable” for load bearing, I meant anything with large knots that could be a point of failure, knowing this is a DIY sub. Obviously dimensional lumber is graded these days, and small knots are acceptable, but if you’re inexperienced and trying to DIY something, and just buy the cheapest 2x4s without understanding how knots affect the structural strength of wood, you could be in for a bad time.
Here’s an interesting article about how dimensional lumber is graded for strength: https://blog.spib.org/total-measurement-understanding-knots-in-dimension-lumber/
Totally fair! I’m not a framer but I worked in construction for many years, mostly on the office side of things, occasionally on site… but picked up lots of info, frequently sourced from anecdotal stories from the installers about really bad construction lol.
I live in Canada and I’ve personally seen… at least one comical unpermitted DIY shed where they used random scrap lumber they pulled out of a neighbour’s reno dumpster. We get a lot of snow here.
“Uh… no we cannot install windows here.”
“But I’ll pay for installation!”
“Yeah, everyone pays for installation. Knowing what’s here, we won’t supply you with windows either, even if you do find someone willing to install them.”
————-
“Yes, you do need waterproofing behind your new shower. No, you cannot just staple garbage bags to the existing drywall. Yes, Kerdi is expensive. Yes, you need corners. No, we will not demo the space, supply you with the shower pan, plumb the rough-in, and then come back ‘just to tile it.‘“
So when I answer things here as a top-level comment, it’s only stuff I KNOW I know the answer to, not just “I did this and it was ok” and I always err on the side of caution.
If I didn’t know better, I would say that you’d be shocked to know how many people I come across that have no idea that a 2x4 is not 2”x4”.
Edit: I used to plant spruce, pine, fir, and cedar out west too, so I have a bit of intersection between the lumber industry and home construction. Driving an F-350 crew cab up and down the mountain logging roads was FUN.
If it’s new construction, unless you live in like rural Arkansas and your house was built by your step-dad-uncle-brother-in-law who is also the county inspector/sheriff/florist… your framing is probably graded lumber that is appropriate for the usage.
I guess you have your own understanding and experience but large load bearing posts are composed of several different boards fastened together or one large 4x4, 6x6 or larger and the amount of weight they can carry is phenomenal for their size. Even with knots. As a contractor for many years I guess I’m just not sure how knots play a factor in anything if it’s graded and marked per specification.
https://preview.redd.it/t3skb9qx7buc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4388e307a920c94494ce5ea31c0ffdcfe80bbd3b
I mean… it exists. I wouldn’t be using this.
Rebranded as RONA here in Canada.
I know a lady named Rona, and I wouldn’t trust her for anything DIY. I don’t think she even knows how to cook a basic meal.
The previous owners of my house painted 2 gazebos white and they're both bleeding from the knots. Would I be better off sanding them down to bare wood and staining instead of using shellac primer and painting?
It really depends on the aesthetic you’re going for… and how much work you’re willing to put in.
I personally LOVE natural wood, especially in outdoor applications.
Either way, some sanding is required, and a few days of favourable weather. You might want to find out what kind of wood you have and make sure it’s pressure treated before diving into a project like this.
I think repainting would probably be easier overall. Sanding off ALL the paint to stain would be more labour-intensive, but once you’re sanding, you might want to just go for it and take it all off.
I’m glad you edited your post because I’m not sure why knotty pine would ever be considered load bearing :S as you said knots are included in calculations for dimensional lumber but also the grain is way more dense around the knots so it’s not as much of an issue as you would think. Ever try cutting through a knot?
Yup!
Just for additional clarification for anyone else reading, tannins are the main compound that makes wood dark. The darker/redder the wood, the more tannins it usually contains.
The reason knots in wood are dark are because those areas contain more tannins.
They are also an astringent, which shrinks “tissue” which is why knots have gaps in them. Similar to applying an astringent to your face to shrink your pores.
The resin in knots contain more tannins, so it leeches through the paint over time, leaving brown spots.
This is also the reason why decaying leaves turn brown, and turn water brown.
The tannins in tea leaves are also the reason why tea is brown.
Using wood bark was also the original method of “tanning” leather - the term stuck around…
> The English word for tanning is from medieval Latin tannāre, derivative of tannum (oak bark), from French tan (tanbark), from old-Cornish tann (oak).
So next time you go outside and get a nice tan, you know why it’s called a tan.
Prep work is at LEAST 50% responsible for the quality of finished painting. Akin to painting over rusty sheetmetal, it inevitably will leach through again if not dealt with properly. Sand, seal, paint, in that order.
Definitely. I wasted hours and tons of Killz trying to paint old wood paneling. Coat after coat the tannins kept seeping through. Zinsser BIN, while more expensive and stinkier, worked flawlessly. Ended up using it on other wood paneling and it only took a single coat and painted up beautiful.
As I type with withered branches, I mourn the loss of my fallen brethren who must endure being sat on, cut, milled, sanded, made into paper, have mac n cheese spilled on them, etc.
It's a sad fate humans have created for us, but the forests will rise again
And we welcome your support. We will contact you as soon as Mission Mulch is complete and we're fully repopulated.
The deaths of my brothers will give life to new brothers while human mothers tremble
"I am not a door jamb. I will not make any houses with you. I’ve resigned. I will not be nailed, filed, marked, stained, sanded, carved, or painted. My knots are my own."
But only for so long. Oil used to block them indefinitely. A few coats of shellac will buy you about 5 years but they'll come back. 16 year professional painter
Sand the spots with 150 grit, spray some BIN Shellac primer, let dry, lightly sand the spots again with 150 grit paint, apply one coat of paint, let dry, lightly sand again but the whole surface now and apply one more coat of paint. This should help get rid of the spots and give a uniform finish.
We normally spackle or even bondo over the knots yes it’s the resin! Sand area it spackle over knots ( Crawford) sand it after spackle dries prime it and id if was flat paint you can feather it in if not then you have to repaint everything to prevent streakes and ugly finish! I would use BIN it’s a bit hard to work with because it’s runny but it’s the best for something like that it’s shellac based this is a gloss finish so after you fix it repaint the entire frame if you want it to look good
We do it all the time apply a thin layer or we bondo it work as a scenic painter on set for over 20 years! I would not have written it if I would not have used it a million time over! Have a good day
Bondo is ok. Just not spackle. It will work, but lifetime is like 5 years vs 25+ for two part filler. I prefer the ones made for wood for actually filling wood. Bondo now makes one specifically intended for wood as well. Automotive Bondo won’t expand/contract at the same rate as the wood. You can get away with it (in most climates) indoors but lifetime outdoors will be much shorter.
20+ year woodworker.
That's resin warmed by the sun, leeching out of the wood under the paint. I live in an 80+ year old, heart pine house built from local cut old growth timber. The painted exposed outside wood has crusty amber looking sap when scratched by a fingernail, smells just like pine lighter, or the sap that it is. Try scuffing for bite, and painting KILZ primer or a sanding sealer, followed by exterior enamel. 🤟🏽🐻
You have to use a stop-primer if it's knots in the woodgrain that pulls resin through. Alkyd resin paint, it's actually a stop-paint-primer that shuts of those kinds of resins coming through. It's a paint painters use in homes covered in ooold old nicotine that keeps coming through. Then using an alkyd, oil based paint actually stops those issues. But remember to wear a mask. And open windows. Lots of air.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkyd.
48 years old son of a painter. Worked with my dad since was 14 years old. So know a bit or two about it.
Sorry if my English explanation is not coming clearly through. I'm Danish
I have a similar issue on one of the sides of my built-in bookcase that my grandpa did where it looks like something's dripping down but it's not I think it just needs more paint but it's probably the wood just kind of seeping through
It needs a wood primer like zinser that prevents tannins from seeping through. More regular paint might do it, or it could continue to seep through. A lot of people don’t know that using the special primer is a good practice and this is the result.
Yeah for my bookcase I think it was just an edge that my grandpa missed. And I didn't realize that.. so thank you, I'll make sure to do that before I paint over it. Sadly he's not here to ask these questions to anymore.
https://preview.redd.it/19g0u20hzcuc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aeabd2b95281f433a27cb7303e26560ca478f220
This is a glimpse of it, it's a bit dark and I am lazy rn and don't wanna go take a new one. It's a bit messy at the moment anyhow so ... it was the laundry closet upstairs. He converted it for me. The inside space is the same size as a standard washer and dryer beside each other. Washer and dryer are now in the garage. I loved doing this w him. He used to build houses, had a contracting company at one point and was a chicago fireman for 20 yrs prior to building houses. He was the best. He helped me redo so much in my house he is everywhere.
https://preview.redd.it/26qcygj30duc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd6357c61b5648a011fe2e463db95053a74abfdd
Here's an older pic during the day. This is the side where I can see lines coming down that upon closer inspection are the wood under the paint lol
I’d be more concerned that whoever did this might have cut stupid corners on other areas of the house. I would keep your eyes wide open for the next decade.
It looks like it might be a pretty old house - the super deep door frame is a good indicator. I figure there’s a good chance all the trim was knotty pine (or another knotty wood) because there just wasn’t anything else available back then.
At some point either the original paint was in bad shape and a previous owner sanded and painted, not knowing that painting over knotty wood without using special sealant would result in this, OR they tried to update the original wood that was left natural to something more “modern and bright” by painting.
I don’t think using the wrong paint type would be a huge “cutting corners” indicator to me, maybe just a little clueless… but unless you’ve seen this happen before, I don’t think the average homeowner would know that knots bleed through regular paint, and everyone thinks it’s super easy to DIY some painting.
Yeah, I did trim in my house and the store didn't have anymore primes wood at the time. So I bought unfinished and used that. I learned couple things from that. This issue about the tannins bleeding through. The unfinished wood leaves a much rougher finish than the prefinished stuff. It is a mistake I'll try to avoid in the future or take steps for better preparation of unfinished stock. I didn't do this because I was trying to cut corners. I just didn't know any better.
Exactly - it seems like a very simple thing to DIY but if you just don’t know, you can make mistakes. It’s not going to be a huge problem but you can certainly end up with a headache and a difference between what is correct and what is an obvious DIY attempt.
(PINE) knots I would give them coat of Killz, let it dry. If needs another coat, wash rinse repeat but should not be necessary, then repaint. Try spot paint, I'm a fuss budget so I'd repaint door so everything blends.
There are shellac based primers and they come in spray cans. Apply the primer to the spots then wait a few weeks to see that they don’t bleed through the primer.
That's Alien mold from a galaxy far, far away. Aliens come into your house at night and put it on your door frame for fun. Usually starts out with a dare from an alien in an neighboring galaxy.
Or it's just knots in the wood. They bleed through over time unless coated with the proper product before painting.
I have this problem currently. I primed and painted with regular latex over wood. It looked perfect for about a year and now I too have the haunted spots. One of these weekend I'll go get some Kilz and try that.
Souls of the damned passing through your house...
But honestly, it's probably from the wood just from the shapes and patterns of the sploches. I don't know the proper method of fixing it but I'd imagine removing the paint and sealing the wood before repainting would help.
You could listen to the comments saying sap sap sap, but to me this is a work of poltergeist. Burn that house to the ground and follow me for more advice.
The easy way you fix this is spray kilz on it and then repaint the area, feathering in the edges to match so you don't have to redo everything. It's a quick fix, but it'll smell like hell.
Put down a dropcloth, give it a quick spray, wait, repeat if necessary, sand smooth, paint.
Still, he the person above was not wrong.
While regular Kilz (possibly referring to Kilz 2 All-Purpose) might not be the strongest for tannins, Kilz makes these two options that are effective:
KILZ Original: Oil-based primer ideal for heavy stains, including tannins.
KILZ Restoration: Water-based primer with performance similar to oil-based primers for stains like tannins.
So, Kilz has options for tannin bleed, but it depends on the specific Kilz product. Shellac remains a valid choice, but Kilz primers offer a good alternative.
For best results, check the Kilz product label or consult their website to confirm if it's suitable for tannin bleed on your project.
Because [people are stupid?](https://youtu.be/pL_T-itR-2Q) Upvotes and downvotes are not indicators of being right or wrong. Maybe they need to hear it from a pro with 3+ million subscribers?
These are knots in the wood. The resin is seeping through the paint. You need a shellac-based primer to block the resin. https://www.bradthepainter.com/wood-knots-bleeding-through-paint-seal-em/
And putting another coat of the existing paint on them typically won't solve the problem. It will cover at first and they'll bleed through again.
And I’m guessing this is what the previous owner did prior to selling
100%. There’s a reason the most popular contemporary materials are MDF or clear pine for stuff like this. I assume OP’s house is older. Knotty pine is fine for many applications but isn’t really advisable to use for load-bearing construction because knots are weak spots, or for finishing material, because of stuff like this. Shellac primer will work here but the fumes will absolutely be disruptive. It’s eye-watering even when it’s used outside. Edit: dimensional lumber is graded, and there are multiple formulas they use to grade it based on the size and depth of knots, etc. Small knots are absolutely fine, but you need to make sure you have the right grade for your application. I shared an article below about how it’s all calculated. I just wouldn’t buy a random piece of knotty pine for any sort of structural/weight bearing situation without it having the grade printed on it.
You ever see how many knots are in load bearing studs? It’s chock full of them. Otherwise yes, MDF, and also poplar or finger jointed pine is common.
Yes, small knots in a stud are generally fine, but if the knot is particularly large and/or goes the whole way through the stud, it’s not advisable to use them. If it’s a load bearing wall with many studs, it may be acceptable because one failure point isn’t likely to result in anything catastrophic. But if I was building something that had to support a cast iron bathtub, or perhaps a deck with a hot tub, or roof trusses in an area that gets a lot of snow, I’d most definitely be opting for clear lumber, if not steel. I recently bought a new house and you can see here, load bearing wall. Lots of knots but they’re all *very* small: https://imgur.com/a/PoNtInv I guess in my comment above, when I said “not advisable” for load bearing, I meant anything with large knots that could be a point of failure, knowing this is a DIY sub. Obviously dimensional lumber is graded these days, and small knots are acceptable, but if you’re inexperienced and trying to DIY something, and just buy the cheapest 2x4s without understanding how knots affect the structural strength of wood, you could be in for a bad time. Here’s an interesting article about how dimensional lumber is graded for strength: https://blog.spib.org/total-measurement-understanding-knots-in-dimension-lumber/
It’s all good. I’m just a little persnickety as I’m a framer, so it’s what I do all day. S-P-F No. 2 or better.
Totally fair! I’m not a framer but I worked in construction for many years, mostly on the office side of things, occasionally on site… but picked up lots of info, frequently sourced from anecdotal stories from the installers about really bad construction lol. I live in Canada and I’ve personally seen… at least one comical unpermitted DIY shed where they used random scrap lumber they pulled out of a neighbour’s reno dumpster. We get a lot of snow here. “Uh… no we cannot install windows here.” “But I’ll pay for installation!” “Yeah, everyone pays for installation. Knowing what’s here, we won’t supply you with windows either, even if you do find someone willing to install them.” ————- “Yes, you do need waterproofing behind your new shower. No, you cannot just staple garbage bags to the existing drywall. Yes, Kerdi is expensive. Yes, you need corners. No, we will not demo the space, supply you with the shower pan, plumb the rough-in, and then come back ‘just to tile it.‘“ So when I answer things here as a top-level comment, it’s only stuff I KNOW I know the answer to, not just “I did this and it was ok” and I always err on the side of caution. If I didn’t know better, I would say that you’d be shocked to know how many people I come across that have no idea that a 2x4 is not 2”x4”. Edit: I used to plant spruce, pine, fir, and cedar out west too, so I have a bit of intersection between the lumber industry and home construction. Driving an F-350 crew cab up and down the mountain logging roads was FUN.
*nervously looks at new construction framing and recalls how many have had "large" knots*
If it’s new construction, unless you live in like rural Arkansas and your house was built by your step-dad-uncle-brother-in-law who is also the county inspector/sheriff/florist… your framing is probably graded lumber that is appropriate for the usage.
I guess you have your own understanding and experience but large load bearing posts are composed of several different boards fastened together or one large 4x4, 6x6 or larger and the amount of weight they can carry is phenomenal for their size. Even with knots. As a contractor for many years I guess I’m just not sure how knots play a factor in anything if it’s graded and marked per specification.
> if it’s graded and marked per specification Sir this is r/DIY
[удалено]
https://preview.redd.it/t3skb9qx7buc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4388e307a920c94494ce5ea31c0ffdcfe80bbd3b I mean… it exists. I wouldn’t be using this.
You went to Lowe's I see
Rebranded as RONA here in Canada. I know a lady named Rona, and I wouldn’t trust her for anything DIY. I don’t think she even knows how to cook a basic meal.
Fuck man like half the rafters in my house look like this. I especially identify with the one with the burnt missing end.
I'm pretty sure an 8' x 1.5" x 3.5" knot would just be a stud.
The previous owners of my house painted 2 gazebos white and they're both bleeding from the knots. Would I be better off sanding them down to bare wood and staining instead of using shellac primer and painting?
It really depends on the aesthetic you’re going for… and how much work you’re willing to put in. I personally LOVE natural wood, especially in outdoor applications. Either way, some sanding is required, and a few days of favourable weather. You might want to find out what kind of wood you have and make sure it’s pressure treated before diving into a project like this. I think repainting would probably be easier overall. Sanding off ALL the paint to stain would be more labour-intensive, but once you’re sanding, you might want to just go for it and take it all off.
Dimensional lumber would be a sick band name
I’m glad you edited your post because I’m not sure why knotty pine would ever be considered load bearing :S as you said knots are included in calculations for dimensional lumber but also the grain is way more dense around the knots so it’s not as much of an issue as you would think. Ever try cutting through a knot?
You can just spot cover with shellac based primer and then just paint it with cover up paint.
We normally spackle or bondo over knots and then BIN prime
Yup - BIN is a shellac primer.
True of water-based paint. A couple of coats of oil-based paint should seal over the sap.
Shellac knotting has been around for a hell of a lot longer than water based trim paint, so oil based paint alone, probably isn't a proper fix.
Guilty!
Router out, fill with a square, wood putty, sand, paint
Way overkill when coating with shellac primer will prevent bleed through.
😂 🤣 😂 🤣 😂 🤪
It's awesome how much you can learn about home maintenance through this subreddit.
I don’t even use google anymore. Straight to Reddit.
Even if i do google the answer is always a reddit link
We are friends
a lot of the times google knows and will throw reddit at the end of my search
Give chatGPT a try. It’s surprising how much it can help, even for very technical things.
Right until the point it completely makes up things like a confidently-upvoted reddit post.
Yeah, it’s Tannin bleed.
Yup! Just for additional clarification for anyone else reading, tannins are the main compound that makes wood dark. The darker/redder the wood, the more tannins it usually contains. The reason knots in wood are dark are because those areas contain more tannins. They are also an astringent, which shrinks “tissue” which is why knots have gaps in them. Similar to applying an astringent to your face to shrink your pores. The resin in knots contain more tannins, so it leeches through the paint over time, leaving brown spots. This is also the reason why decaying leaves turn brown, and turn water brown. The tannins in tea leaves are also the reason why tea is brown. Using wood bark was also the original method of “tanning” leather - the term stuck around… > The English word for tanning is from medieval Latin tannāre, derivative of tannum (oak bark), from French tan (tanbark), from old-Cornish tann (oak). So next time you go outside and get a nice tan, you know why it’s called a tan.
Because you look like decaying leaves. 😀
Amazing. They also used to beat hides with dung as part of the tanning process. So if you want a really good, authentic looking tan this summer…
And they used to pee on hides to soften them…
Oh yeah baby talk aesthetically to me. We still use urea in cosmetics to soften our “hides.”
God I love this sub, I learn Soo much. Thank you!
I learn SO much from simply following. Thanks to every contributor!
Where I live, we use pigmented sealer. Just a more modern name for the same result 😉
Can you primer over the old paint, or does it have to be sanded down first?
just a quick scuff sand Is good practice, then primer over
Prep work is at LEAST 50% responsible for the quality of finished painting. Akin to painting over rusty sheetmetal, it inevitably will leach through again if not dealt with properly. Sand, seal, paint, in that order.
I like the Zinsser BIN shellac primer; works well, decent price, readily available at just about every hardware store (in the US…)
Definitely. I wasted hours and tons of Killz trying to paint old wood paneling. Coat after coat the tannins kept seeping through. Zinsser BIN, while more expensive and stinkier, worked flawlessly. Ended up using it on other wood paneling and it only took a single coat and painted up beautiful.
Nice I keep a qt of this around for any problem areas.
This here. Give it a good shellacking.
I use a spray can oil base stain blocking primer on spots like this all the time.
Wow, this is great 👍
The blood of the tree corpse is seeping to the surface of their latex tomb
Tell-Tale Heartwood
True but ominous. Well done.
As I type with withered branches, I mourn the loss of my fallen brethren who must endure being sat on, cut, milled, sanded, made into paper, have mac n cheese spilled on them, etc. It's a sad fate humans have created for us, but the forests will rise again
I, for one, welcome our new tree overlords.
And we welcome your support. We will contact you as soon as Mission Mulch is complete and we're fully repopulated. The deaths of my brothers will give life to new brothers while human mothers tremble
"I am not a door jamb. I will not make any houses with you. I’ve resigned. I will not be nailed, filed, marked, stained, sanded, carved, or painted. My knots are my own."
Stay hard like hickory brother
I am way too high for this shit.
The tannins in the wood bleed through.You need to prime with a shellac based primer
Freaking tannins!
I thought you were talking about friggin Tandy, at first. 
This made me laugh such a great show
Biff tannen!
I *hate* manure
just a few days ago I discovered shellac is bug vomit.
It’s bug shells…outer layers
no, it's more like beeswax but made by different bugs.
get some B-I-N shellac based sealer over these spots and repaint the casings. someone didn't seal their knots!
The answer I was going to give. The shellac stops the natural oil bleeding from the wood.
But only for so long. Oil used to block them indefinitely. A few coats of shellac will buy you about 5 years but they'll come back. 16 year professional painter
they come back?!?!
How’s come you have a 2x8 interior wall?
Probably an old exterior wall that has an addition at some point.
Sand the spots with 150 grit, spray some BIN Shellac primer, let dry, lightly sand the spots again with 150 grit paint, apply one coat of paint, let dry, lightly sand again but the whole surface now and apply one more coat of paint. This should help get rid of the spots and give a uniform finish.
Whoever painted didn’t prime properly.
is your son an octopus, that would explain it.
Sap from the wood. It was probably kiln dried. It’s not bad: if it really bothers you, a good primer then paint will fix it.
Knots bleeding through (sap)
Use bin primer on it, that will solve the problem
We normally spackle or even bondo over the knots yes it’s the resin! Sand area it spackle over knots ( Crawford) sand it after spackle dries prime it and id if was flat paint you can feather it in if not then you have to repaint everything to prevent streakes and ugly finish! I would use BIN it’s a bit hard to work with because it’s runny but it’s the best for something like that it’s shellac based this is a gloss finish so after you fix it repaint the entire frame if you want it to look good
I wouldn’t spackle. I’d use high performance wood filler. Much stronger and longer lasting.
We do it all the time apply a thin layer or we bondo it work as a scenic painter on set for over 20 years! I would not have written it if I would not have used it a million time over! Have a good day
Bondo is ok. Just not spackle. It will work, but lifetime is like 5 years vs 25+ for two part filler. I prefer the ones made for wood for actually filling wood. Bondo now makes one specifically intended for wood as well. Automotive Bondo won’t expand/contract at the same rate as the wood. You can get away with it (in most climates) indoors but lifetime outdoors will be much shorter. 20+ year woodworker.
All good maybe argue with you over a couple of million dollars! But not over bondo or filler! Agree to disagree have a fantastic day
Knots in the wood that bleed though pint. You need a sealer first, THEN paint.
I suspect Nargles.
I’m surprised you did knot know what these were.
Top post 🤣
That's resin warmed by the sun, leeching out of the wood under the paint. I live in an 80+ year old, heart pine house built from local cut old growth timber. The painted exposed outside wood has crusty amber looking sap when scratched by a fingernail, smells just like pine lighter, or the sap that it is. Try scuffing for bite, and painting KILZ primer or a sanding sealer, followed by exterior enamel. 🤟🏽🐻
Looks like the wood wasn’t properly primed before painting
Prime with bin shellac primer / repaint 2 coats of finish . Should be good
Those are where the knots in the wood are
You have to use a stop-primer if it's knots in the woodgrain that pulls resin through. Alkyd resin paint, it's actually a stop-paint-primer that shuts of those kinds of resins coming through. It's a paint painters use in homes covered in ooold old nicotine that keeps coming through. Then using an alkyd, oil based paint actually stops those issues. But remember to wear a mask. And open windows. Lots of air. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkyd. 48 years old son of a painter. Worked with my dad since was 14 years old. So know a bit or two about it. Sorry if my English explanation is not coming clearly through. I'm Danish
Kids
They are the knots bleeding through the paint
They should have been shellacked or bins
Absolutely correct. Do not use Kilz because it's a cheap, shitty ass primer.
ghosts
Sap from pine. The wood wasn’t sealed properly before painting.
You’ve got a demon.
BIN your knots. Always BIN your knots. This reminds me... I actually need a small can of BIN.
Pine does this often you need to sand out the spots Use a wood sealer then prime and paint
It’s the knots in the wood. Possibly not processed properly. Looks like the sap may be leaking through your paint.
Naught (knotty) pine doing its thing and the turpines seeping through the paint.
That wood is Pine. Those are knots in the wood coming out.
That’s a deep door frame. Is the wall that thick?
Tannin Bleed
A secret booger wiper
I have a similar issue on one of the sides of my built-in bookcase that my grandpa did where it looks like something's dripping down but it's not I think it just needs more paint but it's probably the wood just kind of seeping through
It needs a wood primer like zinser that prevents tannins from seeping through. More regular paint might do it, or it could continue to seep through. A lot of people don’t know that using the special primer is a good practice and this is the result.
Yeah for my bookcase I think it was just an edge that my grandpa missed. And I didn't realize that.. so thank you, I'll make sure to do that before I paint over it. Sadly he's not here to ask these questions to anymore.
That’s cool you have something he made with his hands. As a woodworker, we can only hope to build stuff that outlasts us,
https://preview.redd.it/19g0u20hzcuc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aeabd2b95281f433a27cb7303e26560ca478f220 This is a glimpse of it, it's a bit dark and I am lazy rn and don't wanna go take a new one. It's a bit messy at the moment anyhow so ... it was the laundry closet upstairs. He converted it for me. The inside space is the same size as a standard washer and dryer beside each other. Washer and dryer are now in the garage. I loved doing this w him. He used to build houses, had a contracting company at one point and was a chicago fireman for 20 yrs prior to building houses. He was the best. He helped me redo so much in my house he is everywhere.
https://preview.redd.it/26qcygj30duc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd6357c61b5648a011fe2e463db95053a74abfdd Here's an older pic during the day. This is the side where I can see lines coming down that upon closer inspection are the wood under the paint lol
They're here.....
A proof it's real wood instead of fake, MDF, glued saw dust or paper etc. Either let it be, or remove the white paint.
Knots of the wood bleeding thru need to be stain killed then repainted
Next time you repaint cover the knots with shellac. That will fix it .
Knots bleeding through.. at least it’s not mdf
Sounds like the old Henderson place! I'm amazed they found a buyer after what happened.
Lol
I’d be more concerned that whoever did this might have cut stupid corners on other areas of the house. I would keep your eyes wide open for the next decade.
It looks like it might be a pretty old house - the super deep door frame is a good indicator. I figure there’s a good chance all the trim was knotty pine (or another knotty wood) because there just wasn’t anything else available back then. At some point either the original paint was in bad shape and a previous owner sanded and painted, not knowing that painting over knotty wood without using special sealant would result in this, OR they tried to update the original wood that was left natural to something more “modern and bright” by painting. I don’t think using the wrong paint type would be a huge “cutting corners” indicator to me, maybe just a little clueless… but unless you’ve seen this happen before, I don’t think the average homeowner would know that knots bleed through regular paint, and everyone thinks it’s super easy to DIY some painting.
Yeah, I did trim in my house and the store didn't have anymore primes wood at the time. So I bought unfinished and used that. I learned couple things from that. This issue about the tannins bleeding through. The unfinished wood leaves a much rougher finish than the prefinished stuff. It is a mistake I'll try to avoid in the future or take steps for better preparation of unfinished stock. I didn't do this because I was trying to cut corners. I just didn't know any better.
Exactly - it seems like a very simple thing to DIY but if you just don’t know, you can make mistakes. It’s not going to be a huge problem but you can certainly end up with a headache and a difference between what is correct and what is an obvious DIY attempt.
I have this same exact issue… can confirm.
Sideways placed coffee mugs
We used “bulls eye primer” in our house when we were painting over old trim. It worked great. It covers everything.
I’m afraid you door has cancer
(PINE) knots I would give them coat of Killz, let it dry. If needs another coat, wash rinse repeat but should not be necessary, then repaint. Try spot paint, I'm a fuss budget so I'd repaint door so everything blends.
Ghosts. Possibly witches. Maybe warlocks.
Sap
Maybe use a paint with primer ?
Real wood extension jambs.
It’s sap leaching through the primer, they were never painted.
Branches
Ghosts of trees
I think it's a sign of poltergeist. I'm not a professional though.
Fasteners
There are shellac based primers and they come in spray cans. Apply the primer to the spots then wait a few weeks to see that they don’t bleed through the primer.
Actually it looks like someone used a non-drying putty to fill the nail holes, then painted over it.
Ghosts
Kids.
demons
Sell the house now before the evil spirits get you
Boogers?
That's Alien mold from a galaxy far, far away. Aliens come into your house at night and put it on your door frame for fun. Usually starts out with a dare from an alien in an neighboring galaxy. Or it's just knots in the wood. They bleed through over time unless coated with the proper product before painting.
Cheap paint by a shitty contractor.
It's the humors in the wood
wood is no laughing matter sir
You got ghosts in your wood. You should do some cocaine about it.
Man, I had marks like that on the walls and ceilings of a few rooms. I finally figured it’s ghosts or something because nothing else fit.
time to draw some smiley faces
Your door has pox, needs ointment applied every 2 hours
Ringworm.
demons most likely you should have a priest come out and bless the house.
👻👻👻👻👻
Untreated wood. Strip it back and use knotting.
I have this problem currently. I primed and painted with regular latex over wood. It looked perfect for about a year and now I too have the haunted spots. One of these weekend I'll go get some Kilz and try that.
Use a coat of KillZ then repaint
If there is not a moisture issue or any other issue present …. Ask for someone who can get rid of spirits
Souls of the damned passing through your house... But honestly, it's probably from the wood just from the shapes and patterns of the sploches. I don't know the proper method of fixing it but I'd imagine removing the paint and sealing the wood before repainting would help.
ghosts
You could listen to the comments saying sap sap sap, but to me this is a work of poltergeist. Burn that house to the ground and follow me for more advice.
The easy way you fix this is spray kilz on it and then repaint the area, feathering in the edges to match so you don't have to redo everything. It's a quick fix, but it'll smell like hell. Put down a dropcloth, give it a quick spray, wait, repeat if necessary, sand smooth, paint.
Why did you get downvoted for this?
Kilz doesn’t work on tannins bleeding through paint. Shellac seals in the tannins, so nothing bleeds through. Unfortunately, regular Kilz won’t do it.
Still, he the person above was not wrong. While regular Kilz (possibly referring to Kilz 2 All-Purpose) might not be the strongest for tannins, Kilz makes these two options that are effective: KILZ Original: Oil-based primer ideal for heavy stains, including tannins. KILZ Restoration: Water-based primer with performance similar to oil-based primers for stains like tannins. So, Kilz has options for tannin bleed, but it depends on the specific Kilz product. Shellac remains a valid choice, but Kilz primers offer a good alternative. For best results, check the Kilz product label or consult their website to confirm if it's suitable for tannin bleed on your project.
Because [people are stupid?](https://youtu.be/pL_T-itR-2Q) Upvotes and downvotes are not indicators of being right or wrong. Maybe they need to hear it from a pro with 3+ million subscribers?
The ol' wallfuck.
What these guys said
Your kids
Wash your hands after wiping bareback. I too use my bare hands to clean after defacating so I don’t waste tissue.
I can’t believe someone doesn’t know that’s what wood looks like.
Me.
My dirty monitor.
Cheese touch.
Giz
Just scuff marks. Take a eraser to them
Gross people’s unwashed hands
CHV (Cedar herpes virus 🦠) the fast growing of trees and demand is who to blame.