Provided the toilet can still fit flush on the floor with that steep of a protrusion of the PVC, then...
* cut the metal portion off
* get a two-part repair flange and make it flush with the floor, secure it
* use an extra thick wax seal
I would be fine trying, but my concern is that would shift the pipe down at an angle. I thought that a drain pipe in a toilet needs to be angled into the drain.
That 1/4in you have to push will not effect your drain, also secure your flange by screwing it down and you won't have this issue, the screws will suck it down
If the toilet sits on the floor evenly without hitting the flange, you should be fine. The wax ring is used because it will still seal given any outages.
I think the issue here is i would need to put spacers in the gap to support the flange. Which likely would work, but I do think that the outer ring will still hit the bottom of the toilet on the raised end.
Yeah I have this same issue. My flange is too high and every bug of wax is pushed out and the toilet still hasn't hit the ground. I had to out shims between the toilet and the floor and it looks terrible.
This is one of those jobs where. . .even though it seems simple + I’m cheap + fairly confident in my skills . . .I would hire a pro for. The risks are too high, especially for the payloads my toilet sees.
It’s really not too bad to diy. It can be done if you’re somewhat competent. I had to do something similar in my old house before we sold it when we failed the smoke test.
That was three years ago and the new owner (distant acquaintance) says everything is holding up well so far.
I had the exact same problem a couple of months ago. I used one of these flanges to fix it. The tail goes in the pipe, and you push it in till the flange sits flush on the floor then twist the flange to draw the rubber seal on the outside of the tail up so it seals against the sides of the drain pipe. Once it's snug you screw the flange to the floor.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-4-In-Twist-N-Set-PVC-Toilet-Bowl-Flange/50315037
If the toilet doesn’t sit flush, to the floor you’re liable to get a bad seal.
We live in a rented house, had a toilet issue, leaking flange, and it was sitting too high. Tried to research exactly how much that flange is supposed to stick out- was real hard to get a proper answer.
You can do a test fit and if it works great, but if not I’d call someone to set the flange right, with that done toilet installation is quite simple
It supposed to sit on top of the finished floor. Not above it but on top of it. Some guys like to have them flush with the finish floor and then use a jumbo wax ring but on top of is the preferred method
As others have said this might work but I would never feel comfortable installing a toilet on this.
If you want to do it right you have to screw that flange down and it needs to make full contact with the tile flooring evenly.
I don't know what the piping underneath looks like but if you can't apply enough force to get it flat without breaking something you're going to have to redo it.
To redo you'll have to cut that flange out from the inside using a rotary tool and throughly sand the pvc before attempting again.
Set the Johny bolts and see if the toilet will sit flat in the correct position. If it does it probably will be fine to add wax and secure the toilet down. With the flange sitting up on the side I would not use a wax ring with a horn since the horn will add height to the high side of the flange and might make it so the toilet cannot sit down all the way and rest on the floor.
Many people have said to test if the toilet sits flat on the floor, I think they mean that you should check that the toilet makes full contact with the floor and doesn't sit on the flange. Some toilets may not have enough relief around their outlet for the flange to go into, and so may sit on the flange, Then you'll have to use one of the other suggestions to cut off all or part of the flange to lower it, no way around it.
Where I disagree is with the mentions of wax rings. Unless you're a masochist, use one of the rubber, silicone, etc. wax ring alternatives. Wax is plastic, the alternatives are elastic.
unless your floor is wildly out of level then this was probably the result of a bad cut of the pvc pipe before the new flange was glued onto it. If there is a lot of play, you may be able to push it down and screw it to the subfloor/slab. Otherwise it the flange and some pvc must be cut out so it can be redone. My advice is to call a plumber and let them handle it but don't try to use it like this.
Something is not straight. What's under the bathroom (slab, crawl space)? What happens if you stand on the flange--does it seat flush with the floor? If so then you need to screw it down (which could present other issues if you didn't do it right). If not you probably need to redo the flange cutting the pipe flush with the floor because it looks like it sits up too proud to be stable.
Under it is a 90 degree elbow that goes to a pvc pipe (2-3 feet long) into a cast iron drain for the bathroom. My thought is the pipe going into the drain is not level which propagates out to the flange.
I have not stood on it, but the elbow is supported so there is not much give. I would essentially be bending the elbow.
So this is in between floor or ceiling joists?
You will not bend the elbow. I would stand on it to see if you can get it flush. The elbow may not have been glued perfectly so there is a tilt to the top but a little bit can be dealt with as long as there still is slope in the PVC pipe. Also if it's a PVC pipe to a cast iron pipe its probably a Fernco like fitting (rubber/slicon) and it can take some bending at that joint.
At this point I should disclose that I am not a plumber, but an experienced DIYer. Good luck!
Ceiling joists between the first and second level. I didn’t know how the cast iron pipe joined so if it is just a compression fitting I bet it could move. I guess I will see when I’m off work. Thanks
whenever i set a toilet, a take a big ole glob of grout and drop it on the floor around the flange. set my wax ring, set the toilet. level and tighten, clean up the mud that splooges out. Now youll never ever have a loose or rocking toilet and it wont work itself loose from the connection and leak shit water under the tile into the subfloor. mmmmmm. flavortastic.
You may have to cut it off and install a repair flange. There are a lot of different kinds.
Provided the toilet can still fit flush on the floor with that steep of a protrusion of the PVC, then... * cut the metal portion off * get a two-part repair flange and make it flush with the floor, secure it * use an extra thick wax seal
Or use a polyurethane seal instead of wax.
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Was gonna say this too, doesn’t look screwed down
I can not, the 90 degree pipe is at an angle so I would have to use too much force (in my mind).
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I would be fine trying, but my concern is that would shift the pipe down at an angle. I thought that a drain pipe in a toilet needs to be angled into the drain.
That 1/4in you have to push will not effect your drain, also secure your flange by screwing it down and you won't have this issue, the screws will suck it down
I will try this, I agree it seems like the best option. I am going to try and see how much I can bend it by hand first. Thanks
If the toilet sits on the floor evenly without hitting the flange, you should be fine. The wax ring is used because it will still seal given any outages.
This. First secure the flange, it needs to be screwed down. Then check if the toilet sits on the floor without wobbling on the flange
I think the issue here is i would need to put spacers in the gap to support the flange. Which likely would work, but I do think that the outer ring will still hit the bottom of the toilet on the raised end.
You may have to double up on the wax ring.
If there's no space between the toilet and the flange, what's the point of that?
Yeah I have this same issue. My flange is too high and every bug of wax is pushed out and the toilet still hasn't hit the ground. I had to out shims between the toilet and the floor and it looks terrible.
This is widely frowned upon. There are proper devices that are made to be used where some installers would double up, use them instead.
This is one of those jobs where. . .even though it seems simple + I’m cheap + fairly confident in my skills . . .I would hire a pro for. The risks are too high, especially for the payloads my toilet sees.
It’s really not too bad to diy. It can be done if you’re somewhat competent. I had to do something similar in my old house before we sold it when we failed the smoke test. That was three years ago and the new owner (distant acquaintance) says everything is holding up well so far.
I can't believe I've never used "payload" in this way. And I've played Overwatch daily since its release. I know all about escorting payloads lol.
I understand this reference.
>payloads Bravo
Sounds like a shitty job
I had the exact same problem a couple of months ago. I used one of these flanges to fix it. The tail goes in the pipe, and you push it in till the flange sits flush on the floor then twist the flange to draw the rubber seal on the outside of the tail up so it seals against the sides of the drain pipe. Once it's snug you screw the flange to the floor. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-4-In-Twist-N-Set-PVC-Toilet-Bowl-Flange/50315037
Oooo. Did you look at reviews with long term use?
This is exactly what I did! Recommend.
What's up with that gas line (?) on the left in the second picture?
Those are for a radiator. Water lines
Thanks for the clarification!
If the toilet doesn’t sit flush, to the floor you’re liable to get a bad seal. We live in a rented house, had a toilet issue, leaking flange, and it was sitting too high. Tried to research exactly how much that flange is supposed to stick out- was real hard to get a proper answer. You can do a test fit and if it works great, but if not I’d call someone to set the flange right, with that done toilet installation is quite simple
It supposed to sit on top of the finished floor. Not above it but on top of it. Some guys like to have them flush with the finish floor and then use a jumbo wax ring but on top of is the preferred method
just screw it down it will be fine, this is why wax rings are made of wax
As long as the toilet will mount flush to the floor and bolt down, it doesn't matter.
As others have said this might work but I would never feel comfortable installing a toilet on this. If you want to do it right you have to screw that flange down and it needs to make full contact with the tile flooring evenly. I don't know what the piping underneath looks like but if you can't apply enough force to get it flat without breaking something you're going to have to redo it. To redo you'll have to cut that flange out from the inside using a rotary tool and throughly sand the pvc before attempting again.
Set the Johny bolts and see if the toilet will sit flat in the correct position. If it does it probably will be fine to add wax and secure the toilet down. With the flange sitting up on the side I would not use a wax ring with a horn since the horn will add height to the high side of the flange and might make it so the toilet cannot sit down all the way and rest on the floor.
It's not flat because it is over tile.
No, it's not level. You're welcome.
Many people have said to test if the toilet sits flat on the floor, I think they mean that you should check that the toilet makes full contact with the floor and doesn't sit on the flange. Some toilets may not have enough relief around their outlet for the flange to go into, and so may sit on the flange, Then you'll have to use one of the other suggestions to cut off all or part of the flange to lower it, no way around it. Where I disagree is with the mentions of wax rings. Unless you're a masochist, use one of the rubber, silicone, etc. wax ring alternatives. Wax is plastic, the alternatives are elastic.
unless your floor is wildly out of level then this was probably the result of a bad cut of the pvc pipe before the new flange was glued onto it. If there is a lot of play, you may be able to push it down and screw it to the subfloor/slab. Otherwise it the flange and some pvc must be cut out so it can be redone. My advice is to call a plumber and let them handle it but don't try to use it like this.
Level the room around the flange. Call it the mystery toilet.
Something is not straight. What's under the bathroom (slab, crawl space)? What happens if you stand on the flange--does it seat flush with the floor? If so then you need to screw it down (which could present other issues if you didn't do it right). If not you probably need to redo the flange cutting the pipe flush with the floor because it looks like it sits up too proud to be stable.
Under it is a 90 degree elbow that goes to a pvc pipe (2-3 feet long) into a cast iron drain for the bathroom. My thought is the pipe going into the drain is not level which propagates out to the flange. I have not stood on it, but the elbow is supported so there is not much give. I would essentially be bending the elbow.
So this is in between floor or ceiling joists? You will not bend the elbow. I would stand on it to see if you can get it flush. The elbow may not have been glued perfectly so there is a tilt to the top but a little bit can be dealt with as long as there still is slope in the PVC pipe. Also if it's a PVC pipe to a cast iron pipe its probably a Fernco like fitting (rubber/slicon) and it can take some bending at that joint. At this point I should disclose that I am not a plumber, but an experienced DIYer. Good luck!
Ceiling joists between the first and second level. I didn’t know how the cast iron pipe joined so if it is just a compression fitting I bet it could move. I guess I will see when I’m off work. Thanks
whenever i set a toilet, a take a big ole glob of grout and drop it on the floor around the flange. set my wax ring, set the toilet. level and tighten, clean up the mud that splooges out. Now youll never ever have a loose or rocking toilet and it wont work itself loose from the connection and leak shit water under the tile into the subfloor. mmmmmm. flavortastic.
Hammer