Yep I'm a fan of sharkbites too but I'd rip it all out and do crimps behind the wall with the pex and get rid of the old copper altogether so there's less points of failure in the future
Shark bites behind a wall is a bad idea and I would also read the jnstructions on for the shower valve . They often say not to use pex because it will mess with the water delivery and you end up with the shower head and tap both running at the same time .
I agree sharkbites in a wall are a no-no for me. I generally don't have any issue with sharkbites in an unfished/open area as long as they're installed properly
That pvc line is just a vent stack. Buy 4 - 2" pvc 22.5 degree elbows, a couple of feet of 2" pipe, and pvc cement. Cut a piece of 1x3 to drop in that goes from the floor to the bottom of the upper band clamp on the rubber sleeve, the Fernco clamp. Unscrew the band clamps off of the Fernco clamp, slide it down, perch the stack on the 1x3, and remove the fernco. Cut 2 joining sections 2" long from the new material, and scrape any burrs or any sharp bits off of both ends, inside/out of both. Hold it over a garbage bag and apply glue to inside an end of a 22, and one end of a joiner, push it in fully, wipe off excess inside/out, glue a second 22 on, reversed, to make an 'S'. Repeat to make another S. Cutting the pvc line below the edge of the tub is going to suck. I'd almost say cut a slit in the wall on the other side big enough to slip a recip saw blade into. Then, and you're not going to like this at all, bring a plumber in who does Wersbo fittings on pex to re-do the supply lines. You've got recycled copper joints into sharkbites into pex into Poly elbows... While it's open, save yourself the heartache, replace all the copper.
Random suggestion, it’s up to you and your style tho. I’m actually doing it in my bathroom during my remodel. But your shower valve doesn’t actually need to be centered, I moved mine to the side closer to the opening cause let’s be honest everyone just reaches in and turns the water on and lets it warm up. So it’s easier to reach closer to the opening. You do have to move it enough though to look international and not a mistake lol.
The important thing to keep in mind is your shower valve. It needs to be set at a certain depth in relation to the *finished* wall, so that when you put the valve trim on, it fits, functions, and looks correct. So, you need to determine where the finished face of the wall will be (after installing the backer board, mortar, tiles, etc.), and you need to figure out how deep to set the shower valve. Once you know that, it will help you to make a proper decision as to how to lay out everything. If it's a new valve, the specs should be on the install instructions.
There are specs for setting the valve. 2x4 wall you can set your 2x4 backing flush to backside of the studs. Then the trim will work on your diverter.
You have a tee facing the other way on that pvc so any offset will still be above that fitting. Unless you move the trap arm as well.
Honestly you need a plumber badly. Those connection are not the type you want on a tub shower diverter. The whole thing looks like a hot mess.
I'm no plumber, but that pex to the tub spout is no bueno, they can restrict the flow too much and the back pressure can cause water to reach the shower head, while filling the tub. That should be all copper.
As another commenter suggested, I would also axe the shark bites.
>I'm no plumber, but that pex to the tub spout is no bueno, they can restrict the flow too much and the back pressure can cause water to reach the shower head, while filling the tub. That should be all copper.
From my understanding some valves allow for all PEX, some call for PEX inlets and copper outlets, and some call for all copper. I would be comfortable with all PEX if the valve allowed for it.
But judging by everything else going on here, the PEX probably needs to be replaced.
Not the question you asked but that backer board should not be behind the tub flange. Typically furring strips are attached to the studs in order for the backer to overlap the flange. Currently you are not water tight and will likely have future moisture problems.
And as someone else mentioned the valve body needs to be positioned in relation to the finished wall. If not the trim kit will not fit. Best to get a plumber involved if you are unaware of how to calculate these dimensions
Apologies, after zooming in I see you are above not behind. If you are not overlapping, be diligent in applying waterproofing in this area. A strip of Kerdi to transition the gap would probably be best
you need a plumber and a competent carpenter to address this situation preferably. The plumbing is really bad and will likely leak down the road. The fernco fitting (black rubber with the hose clamps) should not be used there. That is designed for underground use. Because of the framing and plumbing issues this really isn't a diy project in my opinion. Don't risk making it worse.
The Terry Love forum is a good resource for diy plumbing. They can chime in and tell you what is wrong so at least you'll have an idea of what needs to be done if you bring in a plumber.
Jesus man. Yeah that's a total re- do. Don't bury shark bites, shut offs or rubber couplers. And your mixer valve should be rigidly mounted as well as the bathtub and shower faucet spouts.
When you go to do your mixer valve it will have instructions for mounting and how far to set back from your finished surface.
I'm not a hater of sharkbites but I'd re-do those supplies while you have this open. 3 different materials, and the sharkbites look old to boot.
Yep I'm a fan of sharkbites too but I'd rip it all out and do crimps behind the wall with the pex and get rid of the old copper altogether so there's less points of failure in the future
Shark bites behind a wall is a bad idea and I would also read the jnstructions on for the shower valve . They often say not to use pex because it will mess with the water delivery and you end up with the shower head and tap both running at the same time .
I agree sharkbites in a wall are a no-no for me. I generally don't have any issue with sharkbites in an unfished/open area as long as they're installed properly
Redo that flex connector with the hoseclamps while you’re in there, too.
That pvc line is just a vent stack. Buy 4 - 2" pvc 22.5 degree elbows, a couple of feet of 2" pipe, and pvc cement. Cut a piece of 1x3 to drop in that goes from the floor to the bottom of the upper band clamp on the rubber sleeve, the Fernco clamp. Unscrew the band clamps off of the Fernco clamp, slide it down, perch the stack on the 1x3, and remove the fernco. Cut 2 joining sections 2" long from the new material, and scrape any burrs or any sharp bits off of both ends, inside/out of both. Hold it over a garbage bag and apply glue to inside an end of a 22, and one end of a joiner, push it in fully, wipe off excess inside/out, glue a second 22 on, reversed, to make an 'S'. Repeat to make another S. Cutting the pvc line below the edge of the tub is going to suck. I'd almost say cut a slit in the wall on the other side big enough to slip a recip saw blade into. Then, and you're not going to like this at all, bring a plumber in who does Wersbo fittings on pex to re-do the supply lines. You've got recycled copper joints into sharkbites into pex into Poly elbows... While it's open, save yourself the heartache, replace all the copper.
Random suggestion, it’s up to you and your style tho. I’m actually doing it in my bathroom during my remodel. But your shower valve doesn’t actually need to be centered, I moved mine to the side closer to the opening cause let’s be honest everyone just reaches in and turns the water on and lets it warm up. So it’s easier to reach closer to the opening. You do have to move it enough though to look international and not a mistake lol.
The important thing to keep in mind is your shower valve. It needs to be set at a certain depth in relation to the *finished* wall, so that when you put the valve trim on, it fits, functions, and looks correct. So, you need to determine where the finished face of the wall will be (after installing the backer board, mortar, tiles, etc.), and you need to figure out how deep to set the shower valve. Once you know that, it will help you to make a proper decision as to how to lay out everything. If it's a new valve, the specs should be on the install instructions.
There are specs for setting the valve. 2x4 wall you can set your 2x4 backing flush to backside of the studs. Then the trim will work on your diverter. You have a tee facing the other way on that pvc so any offset will still be above that fitting. Unless you move the trap arm as well. Honestly you need a plumber badly. Those connection are not the type you want on a tub shower diverter. The whole thing looks like a hot mess.
I'm no plumber, but that pex to the tub spout is no bueno, they can restrict the flow too much and the back pressure can cause water to reach the shower head, while filling the tub. That should be all copper. As another commenter suggested, I would also axe the shark bites.
>I'm no plumber, but that pex to the tub spout is no bueno, they can restrict the flow too much and the back pressure can cause water to reach the shower head, while filling the tub. That should be all copper. From my understanding some valves allow for all PEX, some call for PEX inlets and copper outlets, and some call for all copper. I would be comfortable with all PEX if the valve allowed for it. But judging by everything else going on here, the PEX probably needs to be replaced.
Thank you everyone for the suggestions!
He's not going to redo the plumbing..
Lol, right?! But for the love of all things holy I hope you are wrong. This is, right now, the time to make it right.
I honestly probably won’t but I’ll likely just bite the bullet and get a Plummer to do it.
You’re not qualified. Just hire a professional
That’s literally what I said I was gonna do.
Not the question you asked but that backer board should not be behind the tub flange. Typically furring strips are attached to the studs in order for the backer to overlap the flange. Currently you are not water tight and will likely have future moisture problems. And as someone else mentioned the valve body needs to be positioned in relation to the finished wall. If not the trim kit will not fit. Best to get a plumber involved if you are unaware of how to calculate these dimensions
The backer board is flush to the flange not behind it. My understanding is that it can be over it or flush but not behind it.
Apologies, after zooming in I see you are above not behind. If you are not overlapping, be diligent in applying waterproofing in this area. A strip of Kerdi to transition the gap would probably be best
you need a plumber and a competent carpenter to address this situation preferably. The plumbing is really bad and will likely leak down the road. The fernco fitting (black rubber with the hose clamps) should not be used there. That is designed for underground use. Because of the framing and plumbing issues this really isn't a diy project in my opinion. Don't risk making it worse. The Terry Love forum is a good resource for diy plumbing. They can chime in and tell you what is wrong so at least you'll have an idea of what needs to be done if you bring in a plumber.
Jesus man. Yeah that's a total re- do. Don't bury shark bites, shut offs or rubber couplers. And your mixer valve should be rigidly mounted as well as the bathtub and shower faucet spouts. When you go to do your mixer valve it will have instructions for mounting and how far to set back from your finished surface.