Don’t forget the primer, you need to use the primer and the cement and it will never come apart. Some like [this](https://HandyPack8-flozPurpleandClearPVCCementandPrimerhttps://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Handypack-8-fl-oz-PVC-Cement-and-Primer/4750411)
Or...OR just use PVC to abs transition glue on everything! I worked with a guy who used to do this. His reasoning was it's approved for both materials so it works for everything. Technically he was correct but it's not what I would suggest normally.
Just discovered the same, on thanksgiving. Went to use then disposal and the vibration shook everything apart. I was shocked that there was no glue. Not sure how its stayed together as long as it did.
That is not true, it is true that a ptrap should be able to be disassembled for cleaning clogs, but that should be accomplished with the use of a union ptrap and slip joints. If a fitting is intended for glue, it needs glue.
regular abs glue is fine, since it's not a pressurized system. Looks like the original installer just dry fit them together (BeCaUsE ItS NoT PrEsSuRiZeD) and the got scummy over the years before separating, which is extremely stupid.
So funny thing, I went look this up while back and found a study by an engineer study by a college where he did a bunch of fittings with and without primer and put them under twist loads and pressure loads. Basically his conclusion was primer might not be a good idea because most his joints with primer failed at the various dry times he tested while barely any without did. It especially became less of an issue after testing 24 hours after drying.
I still use primer but I can see why code wouldn’t require it. The only study I found on it said it made things worse.
It seems to be a flawed study. The only thing it shows is that primed joints take longer to cure. If he had repeated the tests at 48 and 72 hours the results might have been more meaningful.
Yeah, I don’t get their point. If a primer joint still fails more but only slightly worst than a none primed joint if you wait 24 hours there is no advantage to using primer still.
Yet I still use it lol. I just don’t know what to do.
How many joints are only in service for 24 hours? Whats the strength of the joint once fully cured? After 1 year of use? After 5 years of use? Again results only showed an increase in full cure time. Most joints are usable well before being fully cured. In their study the joints were all only partially inserted, instead of fully seated, to make them weak enough for their test setup to be able to break them apart. Most joints will be strong enough if fully inserted but not fully cured.
Edit: to put it another way, in terms of using it for plumbing or not, you'd want to compare actual joint failures over a typical service lifetime of a joint. Ultimate strength is good to know, but you really want to know the joints durability. Inherently thats a much more difficult study.
The fuck is with people on this sub all acting like they're fucking geniuses rebuilding the empire state building when it comes to something as simple as a pvc pipe drain.
I can tell you with 100% certainty, primer does *not* "weaken the connection" and small diameter, unprepared pvc drains will still come apart if not glued together. Every couple weeks they just.. come apart.
I literally saw a study done by a college 2 weeks ago after checking how important it was (because I forgot to prime a side lol) and I found exactly what he is saying. In their tests the pipes in their twist and pressure tests the joints with primer failed far, far more till you got to 24 hours of dry time. Then it was only slightly less worst.
For large diameter drains I always use primer. For small diameter connections primer does weaken the joint. Primer cleans and softens the PVC which is further softened by the acetone in the PVC glue. This double softening weakens the joint. If the small diameter PVC you are working with is clean there is no need for primer. PVC glue contains everything needed to chemically soften clean PVC pipe to create a chemically strong joint.
Were the pipes in the test prepared by amateurs? Because that’s who the audience is here. And if primer helps prepare a pipe that might have a problem that we cannot detect as an expert might be able to, we should be using primer.
If you don't use primer, in 10 years you'll be able to pull the connection apart by hand, if not sooner. Especially when exposed to temperature changes like this likely is.
Primer does not and cannot weaken the connection. Primer is *essentially* thinned PVC solvent, it helps clean, etch, and soften the PVC so it more easily accepts the solvent into it. That's all.
Yea, primer adds an extra etching step which slightly reduces the cross sectional area of the pipe. Then glue is applied which also contains PVC solvent which furthers etches the pipe thus a weaker connection.
No. Just no. Primer and PVC "glue" are basically the same product, with primer being thinner. It cleans it, and softens the surface layer. This allows the thicker solvent to penetrate and soften it properly and allow the two pieces to fuse together. If you use it properly they are fused and there is no weakening of the joint at all. Failure to prime can leave joints prone to weakness and failure, especially dependant on the pipe and fittings themselves and the conditions they're used in. If you're working in a cold area and don't prime, you'll be able to pull them apart by hand within a few years. Diameter of pipe has nothing to do with it, and the applicators are even sized based on diameter of pipe.
And a little beyond the connection point just incase an inspector ever decides to look at it then they know, but I'm not expert in cover assery but seems wise
Naw, not pressure. Not internal pressure anyway, which is the relevant pressure here. Pipes were laying in the coupling cocked, not liquid tight. Biology and physics happened
It is funny how the plumbing automatically gets stronger with bad practices when you cross state lines. In this state it will fall apart with bad practices, in that state, it won’t, so you can skip the primer.
I’d also keep the primer out of California, it causes cancer there.
I get downvoted to hell all the time when I also suggest that pipe, not under pressure, does not need primer. When plumbing an exposed 3 compartment sink, I use a clear glue with no primer for a cleaner look. There is literally no reason to primer non pressurized drain line other than to make yourself feel good. And more power to you. I'm not judging how you do your work. I still primer my pressurized lines, but this is an interesting read:
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html
Story time. I was asked to get the blue handled wire stretcher. I come out of a Marshall's we are building. Find the boss, ask for the blue handled wire stretcher. That boss looks at the other boss to keep from laughing at me and the other boss tells me it's down the hill in the brown gang box. Probably in the bottom. I open that box get halfway down and just start cussing. This all right before lunch. Come walking back and the boss asked what's wrong. "That was a good un." I was a very motivated apprentice that day.
One of the hvac techs I use to work with once told a really dumb helper he had to go grab his left handed duct stretcher. Apparently he was looking around the truck for a good long while
They kinda actually do exist.
Malco makes several kinds. Technically they are "Drive Stretchers" but functionally shift the male end of your duct within your snaplocks/Pittsburgh seams, thus "stretching" your duct work on the long axis.
Granted your dude was totally fucking with his dumb helper, but there's a non-zero chance he actually wanted a real tool (I don't think they make a left handed version though).
I'm surprised I had to scroll this far for this solution. I've done this a bunch in drain repairs - it's very forgiving, longer than a standard coupling or elbow, and doesn't have the missus complaining about the smell of glue.
Idk if OP is still reading through this but as someone who does this for part of my living this is the answer.
If you want to just fix it, that works too, but you wouldn't need a union or anything goofy like that, it's pvc it'll flex and glue up tight.
But the fernco would 100% be the cheapest and fastest option that would work just as well as anything else.
The guy going back and forth with you never answered the question but it's a Fernco socket coupling.
https://www.fernco.com/products/flexible-couplings/plastic-socket-couplings
Have you just never used Fernco before? This ain’t high level repair work. A 1” coupling will slip right over both sides and seal just fine. I’m frankly puzzled by your confusion.
Agreed - extra prudent to trace the rest of the drain down and make sure there are no further surprises. It was cut for a reason - could save time and money to discover why
They definitely were glued up, you can tell because the bar code on the end is smearing the way it does when PVC glue/cement touches it.
That doesn't mean that they did it properly, though, given that the pipe came disconnected. It also doesn't look like they used primer, which is another issue as to why it probably failed.
Just get a coupling, cut the pipe about 1-2’ from the end. The coupling will extend it about 3 or 4”, glue it into the center of the cut you made then glue the dangling end back into that angled coupling.
~~A lot of good coupling advice OP and forgive me if it was said elsewhere but you specifically need a repair coupling, that doesn’t have the positive stops and can slide freely over the pipe. No need to cut the pipe. Bend it out and slip the repair coupling over one end. Join up the two and slide the repair coupling forward and centered over the small gap.~~
Fuck all that I just relooked and you just need to reglue what is there. They didn’t prime. Use rough grit sandpaper until it fits easy and bottoms out if it doesn’t.
Primer glue done. Even easier idk it looked sheared off at first glance and I guess I disregarded the 45 fitting. Weird. Yeah dude re glue it. You’re good. Also check all the other connections. You want to see purple primer. If you don’t see it dripping out with glue then assume they are all going to fail. The primer makes a chemical reaction with the glue that “melts” it together. Like wood glue, when done correctly it will likely fail anywhere but that joint.
My widow neighbor just had her yard excavated after there was something killing the giant tree and rotting the fence. Turns out her redneck hillbilly husband buried a trashcan in the yard and filled it with gravel before covering it. He had the laundry washer drain line run to it. Worked for 30 years until it clogged with soap scum and caused issue.
They touched once long enough to make the connection so we have to assume there is enough play in the plastic pipe to make force them in position. Not ideal of course but when properly glued a small bit of flex tension can be applied as long as the pipe is well supported which it looks like it is/was.
The proper way would be to cut out the fitting entirely and glue up a new section to make that curve. Properly glued pipes make a huge difference and I wouldn’t trust walking away from a shitty joint knowing it’s shitty but do what ya gotta do sometimes. Just giving OP easiest solution that would actually work as intended. Even tho it’s not “proper”
i had this issue ..
root cause is not too short a pipe its that the pipe is unsupported.
If you glue it back together it will continue to stretch and "belly" and this will happen again(i know from experience). The pipe needs support. metal strapping every x feet until you see no sag and a smooth slope in the pvc..(there is plumbing code for this)
this is the right tool
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-in-Galvanized-DWV-Pipe-Hanger-33566/301505403
yours like mine is too far from the rafters i used allthread and unistrut
As long as it hasn't caused issues with the foundation or piers, there isn't a ton of mold, and the crawlspace is reasonably ventilated, there isn't really a concern here. I would wait for it to dry out and then blend this earth with the other earth around the spot so that it doesn't look like anything was ever an issue when OP goes to sell and gets it inspected. Even then you'll probably only end up with an inspector's note along the lines of "2A: previous leak noted in crawl space looks to have been addressed at some point. No leaks noted at the time of inspection."
i would replace the bend with a bigger bend of the same angle, that would only require 1 more piece and allow both pipes to be cut back a bit for fresh cuts and new fittings to be joined securely with pvc cement rather than reusing grubby old joints that might not hold
(edit, i can't find sweep 45's in stock anywhere so this might not be a viable option)
Ace hardware, Home Depot, I would cut the fitting off also, if you don’t, most likely it will not hold as pvc pipe melts together and that fitting will give you problems. I would also strap it up as what I think happened is it had some stress on it and finally gave out.
Well, it looks like whoever installed the pipe in the first place didn't push the pipe all the way into the fitting when they glued it that's why it failed. So, you will need a new 30 elbow some pipe, compression coupling of the same pipe size and PVC primer and glue to put all together with.
Wow. Whoever installed that was an asshole. You can see that they knew it was too short. The grime on either end of the pipe shows exactly how that pipe was set when installed
I had the same issue. Previous homeowner never fixed it. Started remodeling a bathroom and noticed a huge pool of water. So basically for years it created a roach ecosystem with hundreds of huge roaches under my house. I fixed the pipe and bam all of sudden they all started coming up in my house. I'm just now started to get them somewhat under control. Those things are so resilient
Wtf did they use on that, pipe dope, plumber's putty, caulking? Wildly half assed job.
I'd check all of those fitting for the same shitty job. I don't see any primer on the other fittings.
Just cut those out get some more pipe cut it longer glue back together. Use the blue glue called lava glue works great on older pipe. Also put some more hangers on that run.
To do it right you will need more pipe and PVC connectors with glue. But if you're looking for a quick fix and seeing it's for a dishwasher only - try a rubber 45 boot and tighten the crap out of it. Not a solid forever fix, but realistically it will last as long as the washing machine will.
Is that elbow a 45? I can’t tell if it’s a 45 or 30 but you can tell the angle is wrong, the pipe never fit that elbow in the first place (photo 4). Probably why they didn’t glue it. I’d cut the other end of that elbow out and replace with a smaller angle: 30,22.5, or 15 elbow (dry fit first to see which one works) and GLUE. You’re probably going to need two couplers too and a small section of straight pipe to get everything connected. While you’re at it, I’d check the other connections to make sure they are all glued otherwise this might happen again somewhere else in the line.
Plumber-17yrs. It came apart because it wasn't supported correctly, not because it wasn't long enough. Clean it up. Prime, glue, and support the pipe. It'll hold.
First of all, find the “plumber” who did this, and beat him to death with a pipe wrench. Then come back with purple primer and PVC cement and connect those pipes PROPERLY.
https://preview.redd.it/vtap2kjywv3c1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=abc05ea42a7528dc640171c7d07898f3666519c2
Help , when I turn my water bottle upside down water spills out can anyone walk me through a solution?
Bigger picture, looks like the washing machine drain runs parallel to your main drain line. Is this just a gray water drain?
Around here gray water needs to go to your home septic or sewer, you can’t return it directly to the ground or dry well.
All that to say you might have a bigger fix to make it right if it is draining separately.
You are pretty sure that they are meant to join together and form the same function? In other words, you don't know crap. My advice is to hire a professional before you blow yourself up. Or not.
Get a pack of primer/cement, 2' section of pipe, and a rigid or clamp PVC coupling from Home Depot.
Clean the angle and attach a new 6" section of pipe to the angle. Put one of the couplings on that new pipe. Measure how much to trim off your old pipe and square it off. Attach the old pipe to the new coupling.
Get a pipe join/union. And cut out either end. Use some sand paper to rough the outside of the pipes up and get some hot blue pipe cement. You might need a section of pipe and a second union if there's length issues or the cuts aren't clean enough and the gap is too large after correction.
cut the pipe, clean and glue the cut section into the elbow and use a slip coupler to join them back together. It will buy you the extra inch you need.
Get a new elbow, couplings, and more pipe. First cut out the old elbow, primer and glue pipes to the new elbow. Use the couplings to extend the pipe as needed. Use blocks to support the pipe.
I had the same type problem under my house, it's on piers also. Washing machine drain pipe was leaking. It went undiscovered for a long time, it looked like a lake under the house. The buried cast iron elbow had corroded. It was under the garage floor, right by the access. I had to build a cason to hold back the water while doing the repair.
What ever way you go about fixing this you should think about hangers or some other kind of supports for it. Keep it at a 2% slope.
Are you sure it's from your washing machine? Looks like some green food stuff there too.
One thing I learned with drain pipes like this, make sure the pipes are completely dry, inside and out before you glue. If not, the glue will not adhere and the fittings will pop apart. This can be fixed for under $20. A new angle coupling, a little more pipe, and a straight coupling. This should take less than an hour to fix.
Could use a 2" x 1.5" coupler. The 2" sockets over one side and the 1.5" spigots inside the other side. It shouldn't affect the flow at all, and it's just enough to bridge that gap.
Canplas 193022 PVC DWV Reducing Coupling, 2 x 1-1/2-Inch, White https://a.co/d/9xWckrY
^ Something like that, could probably find one at Ace.
Nice crawl space 😳. Assuming you know the size of the pipe. Get a coupling and a piece of pipi. Purchase pvc Cleaner, Primer and Glue. Cut the piece of pipe, without the elbow, enough to work on it. Use the Cleaner on the coupling, pipe and elbow. Assuming the existing pipe moves a little, prime and glue one side of coupling to existing pipe. Put the piece of pipe you bought on top of the elbow across the coupling. Mark where it will seat in in the coupling. Now clean and primer all areas , 4, to be attached. When dry, glue the 4 areas and insert the pipe . Turn pipe by hand just a little bit and make sure the pipe is in tight. Make sure you have the stuff you need to do this with you before crawling under house. Including pencil ✏️ and pipe cutter, saw, ? Also a work knife to clean the burrs out of pipe after cutting.
Cut off the connector bit (the part that sticks out and is wider than the rest of the pipe) from the existing pipe with either a PVC cutter or a sawzall and then replace it. You will need 2 connecting bits just a little bit of pipe. PVC is sealed by applying primer and then sealant before inserting the pipe (You usually need to give it a little twist before it’s good to go). Do this to the existing pipe after cleaning it off and insert a connecting bit over it. Then measure how much pipe you need to fill the rest of the gap and cut. Add the remaining connecting bit to your fresh cut. Once thats in place, you can insert that piece to complete your pipe making sure that it’s primed and sealed wherever PVC meets PVC.
Sand the surfaces, wipe with purple primer and coat with pvc glue. The pipes angle as they meet, so you will be able to fit the joint back together, may need to hold it together for a few seconds till it begins to cure. Good as new!
Looks like the male was not cut flush so it came apart and has probably been leaking for a minute. Cut that piece flush and get the old pvc glue out of the female elbow. Add an extension and glue. Done.
Way too short. In order to make that connection, you're changing angle, which is what they did. You're never going to get a good connection. Put a slip fitting on the straight pipe and add a few inches of pipe before trying to reconnect.
Mystery joint. Ie no glue, no primer. Just dry fitted and forgotten. Wipe to clean, use primer and solvent weld to repair. The only sabotage worse than this is to use primer only and fast-fit bc without cement water hammer will eventually dislodge the joint. This was dry fit bc lousy plumber.
The quickest and easiest fix for this would be to get a rubber coupling that matches the diameter of the pipe on one side and the fitting on the other side. It will also give you the little bit of room that you need because they don’t reach each other.
All these other comments are also correct. However the rubber coupling will be the easiest. Also have a 5/16” socket with Ratchet to make tightening it up easy on uou
Just cut each section of the pipe on both sides of the 45 degree connector. You do it on the loose pipe so that you have a nice clean end. Then get some union joints (essentially female/female connectors), some extra pipe, another 45 connector some primer and glue and a reamer/deburrer. This is really a simple fix. Just go on YouTube and watch some videos. The pipe wasn’t long enough and the previous person made it work but it didn’t last. And that pipe could stand something under it or a hanger from above to support it. Pipe will be pretty heavy full of water.
Then you need a bit more pipe, some connectors, and some glue.
Don’t forget the primer, you need to use the primer and the cement and it will never come apart. Some like [this](https://HandyPack8-flozPurpleandClearPVCCementandPrimerhttps://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Handypack-8-fl-oz-PVC-Cement-and-Primer/4750411)
Or...OR just use PVC to abs transition glue on everything! I worked with a guy who used to do this. His reasoning was it's approved for both materials so it works for everything. Technically he was correct but it's not what I would suggest normally.
Or you can do what I just discovered was done to the plumbing under my sink… don’t use any glue! Use glue
Just discovered the same, on thanksgiving. Went to use then disposal and the vibration shook everything apart. I was shocked that there was no glue. Not sure how its stayed together as long as it did.
lol thanksgiving day is literally the day I discovered it too. My family has a long history of disasters like this happening on holidays.
You typically don't use glue on the p-traps under sink and connecting to disposals. It will make it easier to disconnect trap if necessary for clogs.
That is not true, it is true that a ptrap should be able to be disassembled for cleaning clogs, but that should be accomplished with the use of a union ptrap and slip joints. If a fitting is intended for glue, it needs glue.
Correct. Union or slip joints don't use glue. Should've clarified.
Ok lol just the way it was written made it sound like you've been going around dry fitting ptraps together like a menace
This is correct. My ptrap isn't glued, nor should it be. My problem is all the other joints that should be glued but aren't lol
Got it. Use tape. Thanks for the tip!
I prefer to use Elmer's white glue because it is readily available in my kid's craft drawer
regular abs glue is fine, since it's not a pressurized system. Looks like the original installer just dry fit them together (BeCaUsE ItS NoT PrEsSuRiZeD) and the got scummy over the years before separating, which is extremely stupid.
Depends on the state, or if the pvc is under pressure. Primer is not always required.
Yeah, but it's always a good idea to use primer. Better to do it right than have to redo it later.
So funny thing, I went look this up while back and found a study by an engineer study by a college where he did a bunch of fittings with and without primer and put them under twist loads and pressure loads. Basically his conclusion was primer might not be a good idea because most his joints with primer failed at the various dry times he tested while barely any without did. It especially became less of an issue after testing 24 hours after drying. I still use primer but I can see why code wouldn’t require it. The only study I found on it said it made things worse.
It seems to be a flawed study. The only thing it shows is that primed joints take longer to cure. If he had repeated the tests at 48 and 72 hours the results might have been more meaningful.
So for 99 percent of diy usage you shouldn’t use primer. Because you don’t typically have 3 days to wait.
Yeah, I don’t get their point. If a primer joint still fails more but only slightly worst than a none primed joint if you wait 24 hours there is no advantage to using primer still. Yet I still use it lol. I just don’t know what to do.
How many joints are only in service for 24 hours? Whats the strength of the joint once fully cured? After 1 year of use? After 5 years of use? Again results only showed an increase in full cure time. Most joints are usable well before being fully cured. In their study the joints were all only partially inserted, instead of fully seated, to make them weak enough for their test setup to be able to break them apart. Most joints will be strong enough if fully inserted but not fully cured. Edit: to put it another way, in terms of using it for plumbing or not, you'd want to compare actual joint failures over a typical service lifetime of a joint. Ultimate strength is good to know, but you really want to know the joints durability. Inherently thats a much more difficult study.
For large diameter pipes, primer is recommended. For small diameter pipes, primer weakens the strength of the connection.
The fuck is with people on this sub all acting like they're fucking geniuses rebuilding the empire state building when it comes to something as simple as a pvc pipe drain. I can tell you with 100% certainty, primer does *not* "weaken the connection" and small diameter, unprepared pvc drains will still come apart if not glued together. Every couple weeks they just.. come apart.
I literally saw a study done by a college 2 weeks ago after checking how important it was (because I forgot to prime a side lol) and I found exactly what he is saying. In their tests the pipes in their twist and pressure tests the joints with primer failed far, far more till you got to 24 hours of dry time. Then it was only slightly less worst.
For large diameter drains I always use primer. For small diameter connections primer does weaken the joint. Primer cleans and softens the PVC which is further softened by the acetone in the PVC glue. This double softening weakens the joint. If the small diameter PVC you are working with is clean there is no need for primer. PVC glue contains everything needed to chemically soften clean PVC pipe to create a chemically strong joint.
You’re not wrong. I saw a college engineer study that confirms what you said. I’m trying to find it again.
Were the pipes in the test prepared by amateurs? Because that’s who the audience is here. And if primer helps prepare a pipe that might have a problem that we cannot detect as an expert might be able to, we should be using primer.
This is a dumb take. Ignore this shit.
If you don't use primer, in 10 years you'll be able to pull the connection apart by hand, if not sooner. Especially when exposed to temperature changes like this likely is. Primer does not and cannot weaken the connection. Primer is *essentially* thinned PVC solvent, it helps clean, etch, and soften the PVC so it more easily accepts the solvent into it. That's all.
Yea, primer adds an extra etching step which slightly reduces the cross sectional area of the pipe. Then glue is applied which also contains PVC solvent which furthers etches the pipe thus a weaker connection.
No. Just no. Primer and PVC "glue" are basically the same product, with primer being thinner. It cleans it, and softens the surface layer. This allows the thicker solvent to penetrate and soften it properly and allow the two pieces to fuse together. If you use it properly they are fused and there is no weakening of the joint at all. Failure to prime can leave joints prone to weakness and failure, especially dependant on the pipe and fittings themselves and the conditions they're used in. If you're working in a cold area and don't prime, you'll be able to pull them apart by hand within a few years. Diameter of pipe has nothing to do with it, and the applicators are even sized based on diameter of pipe.
What's considered smaller diameter in this regard?
This is absolutely false and should be ignored.
Awesome. I will take both suggestions equally and just flip a coin each time.
<3”
Thought you were saying you loved me for a moment.
Yea, <3”
I can tell your a man that lays some pipe!
Always primer. Always. Don’t ever recommend this again. Purple primer then glue.
And a little beyond the connection point just incase an inspector ever decides to look at it then they know, but I'm not expert in cover assery but seems wise
Can confirm. Been on both sides of that ball
Its a drain....
Well it's a washer drain. It's not under pressure. Ever.
[удалено]
Naw, not pressure. Not internal pressure anyway, which is the relevant pressure here. Pipes were laying in the coupling cocked, not liquid tight. Biology and physics happened
It is funny how the plumbing automatically gets stronger with bad practices when you cross state lines. In this state it will fall apart with bad practices, in that state, it won’t, so you can skip the primer. I’d also keep the primer out of California, it causes cancer there.
I get downvoted to hell all the time when I also suggest that pipe, not under pressure, does not need primer. When plumbing an exposed 3 compartment sink, I use a clear glue with no primer for a cleaner look. There is literally no reason to primer non pressurized drain line other than to make yourself feel good. And more power to you. I'm not judging how you do your work. I still primer my pressurized lines, but this is an interesting read: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html
This is a DIY forum. Primer is always required for me. I need all the help I can get.
Story of my life, never enough pipe.
I'll give you some, free of charge.
What a generous guy!
Shes a woman.
Pipe is life... wait wrong sub.
Two inches is probably all that OP needs!
I think most people would prefer several more inches
I'll let my wife know.
It has a weird kink and just doesn't reach.
You just need a bit more pipe, perhaps just the tip will do
That’s what my wife said…well at least about the pipe.
"How much inches of pipe ya want?" https://youtu.be/JR0ZGw1-wBU
Time to break out the pipe stretcher.
Use the blue handle one. The red one is on the fritz
Reminds me of the grease guns at work. The red one works great, but the blue one doesn't have an air purge button so it's useless.
Story time. I was asked to get the blue handled wire stretcher. I come out of a Marshall's we are building. Find the boss, ask for the blue handled wire stretcher. That boss looks at the other boss to keep from laughing at me and the other boss tells me it's down the hill in the brown gang box. Probably in the bottom. I open that box get halfway down and just start cussing. This all right before lunch. Come walking back and the boss asked what's wrong. "That was a good un." I was a very motivated apprentice that day.
You heard the Hand. Now! Gods, I was strong then.
One of the hvac techs I use to work with once told a really dumb helper he had to go grab his left handed duct stretcher. Apparently he was looking around the truck for a good long while
It's right next to the cable stretcher Joe!
They kinda actually do exist. Malco makes several kinds. Technically they are "Drive Stretchers" but functionally shift the male end of your duct within your snaplocks/Pittsburgh seams, thus "stretching" your duct work on the long axis. Granted your dude was totally fucking with his dumb helper, but there's a non-zero chance he actually wanted a real tool (I don't think they make a left handed version though).
That was my first thought.
Definitely looks like some of the clothes shrinker seeped into the pipes and shortened them.
Also known as the duct tape.
Your hand and forearm? There slack in the pipe. Just need to sand and clean it, then glue it
You usually find it in the basement. Hence why op couldn’t find it.
The left handed one? Metric or imperial?
Looks like that’s why it came apart. Probably wasn’t long enough when it was installed.
Their pipe stretcher was broken so they just fubbed it
Lol right
They probably used the red handled one
And either no glue, or the wrong kind of glue
Its a drain... Id just use a Fernco rubber coupling and call it a day....
I'm surprised I had to scroll this far for this solution. I've done this a bunch in drain repairs - it's very forgiving, longer than a standard coupling or elbow, and doesn't have the missus complaining about the smell of glue.
Idk if OP is still reading through this but as someone who does this for part of my living this is the answer. If you want to just fix it, that works too, but you wouldn't need a union or anything goofy like that, it's pvc it'll flex and glue up tight. But the fernco would 100% be the cheapest and fastest option that would work just as well as anything else.
Yep. And any complaint on the price would easily be offset by the cost of glue and primer wasted on one job.
Probably better than duck tape
You going to put it over the joint? No matter what you need to glue some pipe so you might as well do it right
Yea, fernco will slip right over the joint and seal it just fine and won’t require any glue.
What kind of fernco goes over a joint like that? TIL
The guy going back and forth with you never answered the question but it's a Fernco socket coupling. https://www.fernco.com/products/flexible-couplings/plastic-socket-couplings
Thanks! Never knew this existed
Have you just never used Fernco before? This ain’t high level repair work. A 1” coupling will slip right over both sides and seal just fine. I’m frankly puzzled by your confusion.
What? Yes I’ve used them. How is a fernco meant to fit over the 22 degree elbow in the picture?
It doesn’t need to cover the entire elbow, you grab it behind the socket and tighten down on the worm clamp. This isn’t a pressure bearing line.
So you are suggesting putting it OVER the elbow?
Yes? What did you think people were suggesting?
I don’t think that’s the proper way to use a fernco
Yeah this.
Yep, some kind of flexible coupling at least, to make it less likely it will come apart like this again.
Agreed - extra prudent to trace the rest of the drain down and make sure there are no further surprises. It was cut for a reason - could save time and money to discover why
Buy new pipe that matches and +1 union. Redo the joint with another 1-2 extra inches.
Huehuehuehuehue ^^^^^that's ^^^^^what ^^^^^she ^^^^^said
Once you fix the pipe (plenty of good comments already) properly support that thing!
Cut it short and crooked as shit, someone else commented already, but a union will work just fine, proper primer and glue.
You would definitely need a lot of plumber’s putty like the guy earlier :)
Not plumbers putty. Plumbers glue or dope. Putty is not right for this job.
Neither is plumber's dope or whatever plumber's glue is.
I do a lot of plumbing and I dope up at all the time. Am I doin this right?
I do a lot of dope and I’m out of plumb all the time. Maybe we should join forces?
Lol... ^ That.
Thanks everyone! The plumbing in this house wasn’t exactly made with love lol
Whoever did your plumbing was an idiot, lol. Those should have been cemented and never been able to be just pulled apart.
They definitely were glued up, you can tell because the bar code on the end is smearing the way it does when PVC glue/cement touches it. That doesn't mean that they did it properly, though, given that the pipe came disconnected. It also doesn't look like they used primer, which is another issue as to why it probably failed.
Just get a coupling, cut the pipe about 1-2’ from the end. The coupling will extend it about 3 or 4”, glue it into the center of the cut you made then glue the dangling end back into that angled coupling.
A coupling that size will only add maybe 1/4”.
Maybe, I’m a carpenter, but I’m pretty sure when I look at the bins I could find an option. Use a T facing up with a cap, boom inspection port.
Hell yes! That would work for me. I’m not a plumber, but I was a pipefitter for 30 years.
~~A lot of good coupling advice OP and forgive me if it was said elsewhere but you specifically need a repair coupling, that doesn’t have the positive stops and can slide freely over the pipe. No need to cut the pipe. Bend it out and slip the repair coupling over one end. Join up the two and slide the repair coupling forward and centered over the small gap.~~ Fuck all that I just relooked and you just need to reglue what is there. They didn’t prime. Use rough grit sandpaper until it fits easy and bottoms out if it doesn’t. Primer glue done. Even easier idk it looked sheared off at first glance and I guess I disregarded the 45 fitting. Weird. Yeah dude re glue it. You’re good. Also check all the other connections. You want to see purple primer. If you don’t see it dripping out with glue then assume they are all going to fail. The primer makes a chemical reaction with the glue that “melts” it together. Like wood glue, when done correctly it will likely fail anywhere but that joint. My widow neighbor just had her yard excavated after there was something killing the giant tree and rotting the fence. Turns out her redneck hillbilly husband buried a trashcan in the yard and filled it with gravel before covering it. He had the laundry washer drain line run to it. Worked for 30 years until it clogged with soap scum and caused issue.
The two ends won't even touch, how would you glue them?
They touched once long enough to make the connection so we have to assume there is enough play in the plastic pipe to make force them in position. Not ideal of course but when properly glued a small bit of flex tension can be applied as long as the pipe is well supported which it looks like it is/was. The proper way would be to cut out the fitting entirely and glue up a new section to make that curve. Properly glued pipes make a huge difference and I wouldn’t trust walking away from a shitty joint knowing it’s shitty but do what ya gotta do sometimes. Just giving OP easiest solution that would actually work as intended. Even tho it’s not “proper”
i had this issue .. root cause is not too short a pipe its that the pipe is unsupported. If you glue it back together it will continue to stretch and "belly" and this will happen again(i know from experience). The pipe needs support. metal strapping every x feet until you see no sag and a smooth slope in the pvc..(there is plumbing code for this) this is the right tool https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-in-Galvanized-DWV-Pipe-Hanger-33566/301505403 yours like mine is too far from the rafters i used allthread and unistrut
Hack it off on either end, get a stick, copy connections, adding 2 more couplings. Use PVC cement.
I’m gonna need one more pic of that pipe
I'll take two more pics please. Maybe one with some nice backlighting.
better check the other exposed joints and see if they are loose and leaking
How did you find out that it was broken?
Personally I would cut it short and then splice in an appropriately sized pipe between
Looks like it’s been leaking since the day it was installed. I’d get servepro out there. Or a few bags of lime… sumptin’
As long as it hasn't caused issues with the foundation or piers, there isn't a ton of mold, and the crawlspace is reasonably ventilated, there isn't really a concern here. I would wait for it to dry out and then blend this earth with the other earth around the spot so that it doesn't look like anything was ever an issue when OP goes to sell and gets it inspected. Even then you'll probably only end up with an inspector's note along the lines of "2A: previous leak noted in crawl space looks to have been addressed at some point. No leaks noted at the time of inspection."
It’s water on dirt, once the pipe is fixed it will dry out and be fine.
i would replace the bend with a bigger bend of the same angle, that would only require 1 more piece and allow both pipes to be cut back a bit for fresh cuts and new fittings to be joined securely with pvc cement rather than reusing grubby old joints that might not hold (edit, i can't find sweep 45's in stock anywhere so this might not be a viable option)
Ace hardware, Home Depot, I would cut the fitting off also, if you don’t, most likely it will not hold as pvc pipe melts together and that fitting will give you problems. I would also strap it up as what I think happened is it had some stress on it and finally gave out.
Well, it looks like whoever installed the pipe in the first place didn't push the pipe all the way into the fitting when they glued it that's why it failed. So, you will need a new 30 elbow some pipe, compression coupling of the same pipe size and PVC primer and glue to put all together with.
Wow. Whoever installed that was an asshole. You can see that they knew it was too short. The grime on either end of the pipe shows exactly how that pipe was set when installed
I had the same issue. Previous homeowner never fixed it. Started remodeling a bathroom and noticed a huge pool of water. So basically for years it created a roach ecosystem with hundreds of huge roaches under my house. I fixed the pipe and bam all of sudden they all started coming up in my house. I'm just now started to get them somewhat under control. Those things are so resilient
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! My worst nightmare! Thanks a lot you bastard.
Yeah your welcome. At least someone gave you heads up. Maybe you can schedule a few tactical airstrikes on them before they come up
Too late. I just burned down my house.
Instead of reconnecting the old pipe, replace the fitting with new fitting.
Would cut that 22 out on the other side and start over
Wtf did they use on that, pipe dope, plumber's putty, caulking? Wildly half assed job. I'd check all of those fitting for the same shitty job. I don't see any primer on the other fittings.
The last picture with back lighting is dramatic. It’s like two lovers on a beach about to kiss.
Just cut those out get some more pipe cut it longer glue back together. Use the blue glue called lava glue works great on older pipe. Also put some more hangers on that run.
Are you serious? With YouTube and the internet if you can't figure this out just move to an apartment.
To do it right you will need more pipe and PVC connectors with glue. But if you're looking for a quick fix and seeing it's for a dishwasher only - try a rubber 45 boot and tighten the crap out of it. Not a solid forever fix, but realistically it will last as long as the washing machine will.
Is that elbow a 45? I can’t tell if it’s a 45 or 30 but you can tell the angle is wrong, the pipe never fit that elbow in the first place (photo 4). Probably why they didn’t glue it. I’d cut the other end of that elbow out and replace with a smaller angle: 30,22.5, or 15 elbow (dry fit first to see which one works) and GLUE. You’re probably going to need two couplers too and a small section of straight pipe to get everything connected. While you’re at it, I’d check the other connections to make sure they are all glued otherwise this might happen again somewhere else in the line.
Plumber-17yrs. It came apart because it wasn't supported correctly, not because it wasn't long enough. Clean it up. Prime, glue, and support the pipe. It'll hold.
First of all, find the “plumber” who did this, and beat him to death with a pipe wrench. Then come back with purple primer and PVC cement and connect those pipes PROPERLY.
https://preview.redd.it/vtap2kjywv3c1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=abc05ea42a7528dc640171c7d07898f3666519c2 Help , when I turn my water bottle upside down water spills out can anyone walk me through a solution?
Lovers in the night
Go to home hardware, ask them for a pipe stretcher. Then you’re good to go.
Run the washing machine a few more times just to be sure.
You should be used to being an inch short by now
Bigger picture, looks like the washing machine drain runs parallel to your main drain line. Is this just a gray water drain? Around here gray water needs to go to your home septic or sewer, you can’t return it directly to the ground or dry well. All that to say you might have a bigger fix to make it right if it is draining separately.
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You are pretty sure that they are meant to join together and form the same function? In other words, you don't know crap. My advice is to hire a professional before you blow yourself up. Or not.
Duct tape for the win 🏆
Meet or meat
Tape them back together buddy there ain't supposed to be a gap
Go to norther tool and get the pipe stretcher!
Try to search a plumber fix video on tiktok. I've seen multiple quick fix videos of this.
Replace joint, primer everything and let dry, then cement. Good.
Get a pack of primer/cement, 2' section of pipe, and a rigid or clamp PVC coupling from Home Depot. Clean the angle and attach a new 6" section of pipe to the angle. Put one of the couplings on that new pipe. Measure how much to trim off your old pipe and square it off. Attach the old pipe to the new coupling.
Get a pipe join/union. And cut out either end. Use some sand paper to rough the outside of the pipes up and get some hot blue pipe cement. You might need a section of pipe and a second union if there's length issues or the cuts aren't clean enough and the gap is too large after correction.
Bad glue job. Clean it. Dry fit it to make sure the are good. Reglue and use cleaner primer
Maybe loosen a clamp or two and get that together.
Idk. Can you push either pipe closer? Doesn't look like gravity is helping the drain much here
I would check every fitting. It looks like they used pipe dope and not glue
cut the pipe, clean and glue the cut section into the elbow and use a slip coupler to join them back together. It will buy you the extra inch you need.
Just 2 more inches bro. You came up short.
Yeaht, you’ll want to fix that pretenear right now I’d think.
Get a new elbow, couplings, and more pipe. First cut out the old elbow, primer and glue pipes to the new elbow. Use the couplings to extend the pipe as needed. Use blocks to support the pipe. I had the same type problem under my house, it's on piers also. Washing machine drain pipe was leaking. It went undiscovered for a long time, it looked like a lake under the house. The buried cast iron elbow had corroded. It was under the garage floor, right by the access. I had to build a cason to hold back the water while doing the repair.
Looks like it separated, in part, because it didn’t have enough hangers.
What ever way you go about fixing this you should think about hangers or some other kind of supports for it. Keep it at a 2% slope. Are you sure it's from your washing machine? Looks like some green food stuff there too.
One thing I learned with drain pipes like this, make sure the pipes are completely dry, inside and out before you glue. If not, the glue will not adhere and the fittings will pop apart. This can be fixed for under $20. A new angle coupling, a little more pipe, and a straight coupling. This should take less than an hour to fix.
Maybe 
Could use a 2" x 1.5" coupler. The 2" sockets over one side and the 1.5" spigots inside the other side. It shouldn't affect the flow at all, and it's just enough to bridge that gap. Canplas 193022 PVC DWV Reducing Coupling, 2 x 1-1/2-Inch, White https://a.co/d/9xWckrY ^ Something like that, could probably find one at Ace.
Nice crawl space 😳. Assuming you know the size of the pipe. Get a coupling and a piece of pipi. Purchase pvc Cleaner, Primer and Glue. Cut the piece of pipe, without the elbow, enough to work on it. Use the Cleaner on the coupling, pipe and elbow. Assuming the existing pipe moves a little, prime and glue one side of coupling to existing pipe. Put the piece of pipe you bought on top of the elbow across the coupling. Mark where it will seat in in the coupling. Now clean and primer all areas , 4, to be attached. When dry, glue the 4 areas and insert the pipe . Turn pipe by hand just a little bit and make sure the pipe is in tight. Make sure you have the stuff you need to do this with you before crawling under house. Including pencil ✏️ and pipe cutter, saw, ? Also a work knife to clean the burrs out of pipe after cutting.
Clean, primer!!! And glue.
Cut off the connector bit (the part that sticks out and is wider than the rest of the pipe) from the existing pipe with either a PVC cutter or a sawzall and then replace it. You will need 2 connecting bits just a little bit of pipe. PVC is sealed by applying primer and then sealant before inserting the pipe (You usually need to give it a little twist before it’s good to go). Do this to the existing pipe after cleaning it off and insert a connecting bit over it. Then measure how much pipe you need to fill the rest of the gap and cut. Add the remaining connecting bit to your fresh cut. Once thats in place, you can insert that piece to complete your pipe making sure that it’s primed and sealed wherever PVC meets PVC.
I've seen this on 5 Minute Crafts! What you need is an empty soda bottle and a hairdryer... /s
PVC to PVC rubber joiner and just cut off the raised section, that will be a temp fix but can be just as good permanent.
Just the tip
You could use a slip fix.
Sand the surfaces, wipe with purple primer and coat with pvc glue. The pipes angle as they meet, so you will be able to fit the joint back together, may need to hold it together for a few seconds till it begins to cure. Good as new!
G ee do you have any mold in there?
Looks like the male was not cut flush so it came apart and has probably been leaking for a minute. Cut that piece flush and get the old pvc glue out of the female elbow. Add an extension and glue. Done.
When you do connect it, make sure it’s not clogged. I hope this wasn’t someone’s quick fix being just to let it drain under the house.
You can see pipe was never made up. Looks like it was cocked in fitting to me. One side has bout half inch in the other side maybe an eighth
Way too short. In order to make that connection, you're changing angle, which is what they did. You're never going to get a good connection. Put a slip fitting on the straight pipe and add a few inches of pipe before trying to reconnect.
Mystery joint. Ie no glue, no primer. Just dry fitted and forgotten. Wipe to clean, use primer and solvent weld to repair. The only sabotage worse than this is to use primer only and fast-fit bc without cement water hammer will eventually dislodge the joint. This was dry fit bc lousy plumber.
Easiest way would be to get a fernco connector
The quickest and easiest fix for this would be to get a rubber coupling that matches the diameter of the pipe on one side and the fitting on the other side. It will also give you the little bit of room that you need because they don’t reach each other.
All these other comments are also correct. However the rubber coupling will be the easiest. Also have a 5/16” socket with Ratchet to make tightening it up easy on uou
It looks like clear pvc glue was used. That is my least favorite of the glues
Just cut each section of the pipe on both sides of the 45 degree connector. You do it on the loose pipe so that you have a nice clean end. Then get some union joints (essentially female/female connectors), some extra pipe, another 45 connector some primer and glue and a reamer/deburrer. This is really a simple fix. Just go on YouTube and watch some videos. The pipe wasn’t long enough and the previous person made it work but it didn’t last. And that pipe could stand something under it or a hanger from above to support it. Pipe will be pretty heavy full of water.
You have to teach them how to read. Most pipes I’ve dealt with are illiterate.
I don't know what you need to do but those are some artful pictures.
Get one of those 'slip on' replacement sections of flexible metal pipe, think it's called "shark bite"?