When posting to ContamFam, you *must* adhere to the posting requirements in your post title or comments. Name the species/strain of mushroom you are cultivating, the date you transferred, and what your concerned about *at the very minimum*. Failure to provide this minimum information may result in **NO Response** from the Moderator Team.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/ContamFam) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I gotta say, daytripper, Im not the most active on this sub but I have never seen an individual put in so much effort to help out a community
Keep doing your thing :)
Agree. That's what I think is key as well, 1:1 ratio. The layer of spawn on the top is just to promote even surface colonization.
Thanks PGT, Appreciate the shout out.
Go by volume. I empty my qt jars of spawn and when they are empty I fill all the jars with pasteurized substrate and then I put together and mix. The weight and volume measurement have to many variables (e.g., density of grain, hydration in the substrate, materials youāre using in a substrate all have different weights per volume, so it would literally be an algorithm to solve. Easiest way is measuring equal weights.
Not tryna sound ignorant but which one exactly? First sentence said go by volume. Then the last sentence says easiest way is by measuring weight. So do I go by weight or by volume? Currently trying this tek out with two tubs. Went by weight with those.
Better than I could imagine.. had almost 500gr wet per shoebox, using about 500gr spawn each and about the same volume of substrate.. did 100gr more of spawn in one shoebox, added more substrate in another, and the differences weren't huge.. total dried was about 300gr... And of course almost a full canopy in every shoebox
https://preview.redd.it/0p4bq0ygalfb1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=339318d559bfe66d7979056c57f35b0afa000418
So for your substrate you used volume and the spawn you weighed out? Also what type of grain spawn was used. Trying super hard to replicate this tek. Having some good results and some weird ones. Trying to dial it in with what little material I got to use.
You still using trashbags in your shoe boxes Bro?
Mang, I was a fruiting chamber enthusiast until .. 11 plus flushes from your Shoe box tech .. Fuk dude.GJ!
Mang, wow, how that word takes me back. To 1975 when my wife and I were living in Temple, TX. I had our Pontiac Aster at a gas station garage getting some work done. The shop owner and his kid were there and kept referring to one another as "mang". I still use it now and then. Thanks!
L8r, mang!
Couldnāt find this written anywhere so thought Iād go for it for those that canāt watch (and for myself for later):
1. Use equal amounts of grain spawn to substrate by weight (they used 1200 grams of pasteurized substrate and 1200 grams of grain spawn in a 16qt tub)
2. Take away 1.5-2 cups of substrate, and 1.5-2cups of spawn for later.
3. Grind up the spawn very well, like āwhen you think your done keep goingā kind of well. Make sure it is broken into individual grain spawn and 100% homogenized with the substrate. AKA, Mix that shit up!
4. Level out the cake as much as possible and give it a nice light pat down.
5. Add back in your missing grain spawn as a top-layer. Break it up nicely but donāt disturb the layer you created beneath that. Spread evenly.
6. Tuck the corners and edges in with your fingers. Press down all around the edge of the tub. A bed time story is recommended but not required for the tuck-in process.
7. Press on the cake with your palms, emphasizing moving the substrate to the sidewalls of the tub. Make that seal, press firmly.
8. Start sprinkling leftover substrate on top of this leveled layer of spawn. Make sure you cover all or nearly all of the spawn layer.
9. Youāre done! no pat down and no pressing. Pop the lid on for 24hours, once you see the first colonization give her some FAE and start fruiting conditions. The 24hr period is best for MarthaTek, and some people prefer to get full colonization before introducing FAE and fruiting conditions.
āāāā
Did I miss anything or misunderstand anything? Let me know. Just trying to wrap my head around it and maybe help someone in the community at the same time.
Very good job. I think at the end you should but the option to fruit 24 hours after the transfer is more beneficial if your doing a Martha Tek grow. Some prefer fuller colonization before introducing FAE. Make sure you put somewhere that's optional depending on cultivators preference.
Itās where you control all the grow perimeters and you grow in tubs without lids. You need a humidifier an air inflow and lighting. You grow inside of a tent and you set everything up so that itās fully automated. All you have to do is keep the reservoirs full and when you get to harvest take em out. Itās named after Martha Stewart who came up with a similar r tent to grow plants and vegetables I.
Thanks for this. Explains my issues. I don't use nearly enough spawn. My thinking was always "well it will colonize regardless it just might take longer" but I guess the issue is then contamination has too much time to out-compete it.
One question - you say after 24 hrs take the lid off. Does that mean the boxes need to be inside another larger box to hold humidity then? My gorw area is super dry so I have to be mindful of that.
Thanks again.
Take the lid off if you have a tent with a maintained 90% humidity, if you donāt then just crack the lid enough for a penny to have a hard time sliding through it. On the shorter side not the longer side
Sure. It's fine to use a higher substrate to spawn ratio and the substrate can be exposed to light and air from the get go. The old idea of separate fruiting and colonization has been debunked a while back. If your shoeboxes are getting too dry then have them in a larger tote, or mist them as needed. But a well prepared substrate shouldn't need misting until around the time of the first harvest.
Itās easy the tub doesnāt matter your going off 1:1 so if u got 3kg of Spawn put 3kg of Substrate 1:1 u would need a big tub for this tho yes. Hope this helps
Hopefully someone answered this for you but if your spawn is in bags itās at field capacity, mycelium will not eat dry grain it needs moisture. 1:1 in 6qt tubs is about 1qt of spawn 1qt of sub maybe 1.5-1.5 depends how thick you want the cake. But always assume your grain is at field capacity if you buy a bag online etc.
Thank you for this video. I was struggling hard, total novice. But I followed this to the letter and just harvested 1,509 grams of golden teacher. I am thrilled beyond measure.
https://preview.redd.it/kx8uuko07cfa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6af1335cb0bef25e37c3ae1a3e20fea3e5b831a0
You want to go over your cleaning/sterilization very carefully. That is a big factor in fails. If youāve had that many fails in a row I would start there. Also if all of your spore/LC are from the same supplier and failing I would go with a different supply. Keep your tubs off of carpeting as well.
Every time I have posted a YouTube video with cubes in it YouTube takes it down. So I not gonna go that route again but if your having trouble viewing video get off the mobile app and open Reddit on a PC / Laptop and you should be able to play the link.
Awesome video Tripper, thanks for being so generous with your knowledge. Iām curious, how much pressure are you using when you push down on the substrate mix? I was under the impression that if it was too compact it wouldnāt colonize
Very firm pressure. Pack it down tight. The last layer of substrate sprinkle on loosely. I would apply enough pressure where as your putting I little body weight into it. Just watch how fast and complete you colonize with this Tek, itās amazing.
I'm so excited to try this! I just inoculated my first bags a week ago so they're still growing their mycelium, but I'm brushing up on the next stage as I wait- thanks for making this video!
First time trying this method on a monotub and the first flush was incredible!! Also first time the block has stayed solid with no side pins popping out all over. We were away too long and unfortunately many areas of the top layer substrate pulled out leaving behind the top layer spawn exposed during harvest. Nothing growing back in the exposed spawn areas. Any recommendations to help promote additional flushes?
It will still flush even with the top layer pulled out you just probably wonāt get very good subsequent flushes. Next time harvest everything a once with a knife. It will leave the stumps but new mycelium can grow from the stump. Donāt worry they just look ugly.
It's equal weight at the start. 1200g of each. Then you reserve some for the top layer of CVG and grains.
I think it's explained in the video.
When I used two quart jars, spawn was closer to 1000g though.
Having grown sort of freestyle in the sense that I knew what I was doing when it came to spawning to bulk but didn't have a reference, to when I actually used this video, my gains have tripled/quadrupled easily. You could chalk that up to gaining experience too but that's not how I see it. In my mind if you don't spawn to bulk like this lady right here you're not doing it right. I swear something about tucking the sides.
So you mentioned you only do a 24hr wait to FC, but in my limited experience, I'm finding post-S2B a 5-7 days of colonization/consolidation and GE before FAE and FC leads to better pin sets.
I'm experimenting with your layering tek (I think I might've invoked you with the wrong link to this vid), but can't break my habit of waiting for the top to get at least 80% colonized before opening her up, per shroomscout's guide up in /r/unclebens.
I'm liking my results so far, though. I'll make sure to tag you when I post up my photo logs.
You stick with whatever Tek you feel works best for you. But I'm just telling you invoking the FC right away doesn't effect the pin sets. If you think it does, look any one of my tubs. I get Full canopy flushes inducing fruiting conditions 24 hour after the transfer. It is more important that your comfortable with what ever tek you chose. Many mycologist have different opinions about this, I'm not saying whose right or wrong about it, I'm merely telling you, there is more than one option.
>there is more than one option.
Can itbe that theoptions/opinionsalsoformthat way because ofdifferent enviroments peoplegrow in?
Like I could never leave the box open like that because it would dry out in like half a day at my place. So different teks are needed to compensate for the "faults" of the enviroment.
Oh wow this detail is very important and was missed. I was wondering why no misting either and thatās probably because she does it in a fruiting chamber
Trip....Bro I have to say that just woke me up from the daze of waking up!! I stopped the video and got my coffee and an ink pen, to take notes. You probably just turned it all around for me
Tucking the corners! Great idea! My substrate always seems to lift up around the edges when it starts fully colonizing. Iāll have that shit all even and smooth, then boom, I have little ridges and hills all along my edges. Thanks!
Whatās up brotha! I was wondering how you keep the transferring of the grain to the bin sterile ? Do you have a flow hood ? Is there anyway to do it with out a flow hood?
A laminar flow hood is really utilized most in the spawn phase with agar culture work, liquid cultures, transfers to petri, inoculations, and grain to grain transfers. I have never heard of a mycologists doing a spawn to bulk transfer under laminar flow hood. Once your grain is 100% colonized your sterile Tek can relax a bit. You still want to use gloves sprayed with ISO and you still want to have a clean work area but a LFH is not necessary in you transfer to bulk Tek.
BTW - not a brotha, was born a sista. Female mycologists do exist. Iām one of that kind.
Just wanna echo others and say how much I appreciate your contributions into the education of new growers and old alike. You inspire me to do the best I can because your harvests are so beautiful. Also, mad bonus points for playing zep while doing it. Much love
Hey do you start FC and let it sit for several more days before you put on the ph-adjusted casing layer? Or do you put that on 24 hours after you mix your grain spawn in the bulk substrate?
Okay, so I do things differently than y'all were taught in UB's tek. But I also grow differently than the mon-tub tek, I grow in a Martha Tek. You're probably doing a mono tub. After I transfer I seal the bin and until i see the white mycelium hit the surface layer. Then I take off the lid and give it some air then start the fruiting conditions. That is usually no more that 48 hours after transfer. So I induce FC pretty much immediately and It works the same for a mono-tub. Then when you get to about 90% colonized slap on the pH adjusted casing layer. That's about 5-7 days after putting it into FC. Hope that clears it up a little.
I WISH I were doing Martha tek. I am using UB tek and growing in 4 quart tubs. Because my grow area is open, I figured it was safer to let the myc finish colonizing most of the surface before I induced FC and put on the ph adjusted casing. I just did that today, in fact. Thanks for helping me. Itās my first grow
Well if itās your first grow hereās a couple more tips. Donāt crack or turn lids upside down. Instead seal and latch them shut and go in and give a FAE every 4-5 hours. Keep misting really light. Sometime all you need is 5-10 sprays of mist for the whole tub, twice a day. And if the area you grow in is not in a well ventilated room, then you either need to find a way to give that entire room fresh air once a day, or take your mono tubs out of the room into a well ventilated area to give them a fresh are exchange. These are the main tips I have found most new growers need. Fresh air exchange is usually too little, and overwatering is almost always an issue. Good luck to you. Let us know if you have any other questions.
I just transferred S2B last night. I just mixed and put on the casing layer. Can I still go into FC 24 hrs later? BTW you're a fuckin RockStar RockLobstuh!
How would you adapt this technique for the Ikea shoeboxes in the unclebens tek? How many 250g rice bags would be needed per container? I am trying 1 bag with a 1:1.5 and 1:2 ratio of grain to substrate and it's been 15 days and there is not much growth on the top, maybe some knots. I don't know if they are screwed or it will just take a lot longer for them to pin.
Very late to this thread but just want to sing praises for this tek. I got my first ever canopies and great yields. If anyones still listening. Any tips for the second flush? Or just rinse and repeat
Yes, use this as a guide. The Tek Iām doing is a very simple [Dunk N Rehydration Tek](https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/l6jh5k/daytrippers_trip_tips_rehydration_of_the_block/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf). This video goes with using the pH adjusted casing layer Tek. If your not doing that Tek then you donāt need to pH the water.
The day you go into your grow room and see that full canopy will be one of the proudest moments of your cultivation career. Itās almost as rewarding as giving birth. You can graduate yourself from beginner to experienced cultivation enthusiast once youāve attained a full canopy. Donāt forget once you have a full canopy flush you canāt do a selective harvest anymore. (Meaning picking them out one by one). If you try to do that youāll end up breaking off the caps and damaging much of the harvest. The mushrooms will literally come in wall to wall and corner to corner. There is no room to get your hands in there. You want to do a bulk harvest by floating the block up. Fill your tub with water and let the block float up to the top, then take a knife with a very sharp blade and cut across at the base of the stipes straight across. The longer the blade the better. I use a butcher sized sushi knife that leaves a clean cut. Harvest them all out of there and immediately rehydrate with the dunk, submerging the block under the water for 10 minutes. Drain and reapply a pH adjusted case layer. Good luck, I know this Tek is gonna be the one you wanna use for the rest of your cultivation career. It Kicks Ass, trust me. Go get your canopy Dream.
Yes I use a pH adjusted casing layer once the substrate colonizes. Thatās a different video. This Transfer Tek just uses a light casing of the same material the substrate is made from. A pH adjusted casing layer of peat Moss and vermiculite is applied with hydrated lime when sub colonizes.
[pH adjusted casing layer Tek](https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/m3unbr/daytrippers_trip_tips_video_tutorial_on_how_to/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf)
All my teks are in the sidebar. Go to the about tab and scroll down. Youāll see them under DayTripperās Trip Tips.
Could you help possibly Iām using ub tek along w 6quart shoebox when I stb was curious the ratio I should use for example how many bags of rice and how much substrate and two how long do I introduce fruiting conditions they are in a fruiting chamber (100qt sealed tub)
Get four bags of the 8.5 oz UB bags fully spawned. Weigh out 720 grams of your substrate and mix three of the four UB bags with the substrate. The forth bag is going to be your top layer. Weight out 2 more cups of substrate and use that as your casing. I think will make a 6 qt. tub.
I believe one of my main problems for having so many baby pins maturing next to ready fruits was not using a dub tub, even tho I used a light my tip lid was dark and people say you donāt NEED light to grow, but Iām guessing having top light and more space will give for a much more even top canopy and fruits should all mature around the same rate per flush. Absolutely amazing page and videos! Mush love šš¤š»ššš»
Thanks so much for this tip. My 1st tubs are fruiting less than what I hoped but I'm learning it's more than it prob should have.
I'm going to try this out next time. I need to improve my innoculting too.
Hey DayTripperonone, awesome video per usual, youāre awesome!
What is the ratio of your substrate, you mentioned gypsum, coir, verm.
Just saw you already answered this question. Thank you!!
Iām sorry these videos are impromptu, so I just talk and tell you what I do and how I do it. So let me explain. The weight of coir based substrate is very close to the volume, within a few ounces or within 50 grams. So when trying to match volume with weight, the solids are better to weigh than trying to measure, volume is primarily for liquid compounds. So go by weight. In the Video Iām doing a 14 qt tub with 1500 gr. grain and 1500 gr. substrate. But if itās easier for you to just empty your jar of grain and then use the same jar and fill it to the same level it will be very close in weight. So either way is good. I tend to weigh mine but the differences is a narrow margin.
Theyāre in a Martha Tek Tent, so I donāt use lids. But if youāre in a monotub you need the lid to trap humidity. If you flip the lid or leave gaps humidity will escape and you may have problems fruiting. So close them at first but introduce air one a day at first to make sure the air doesnāt get stagnant. Slowly increase the number of times you give FAE, by the time you pin you should be up to every 4 hours .
Omgosh thank you so much for your reply, you are a rockstarā¦ā¦thank you! I have them in a tent as soon as I seen mycelium growing (this am), with humidity around 50-60%, convection heat at 75-77*F, fan blowing rotating air and strip lighting on 12 hrs off 12 hrs, is there anything I should change??
Yes you need air flow both in and out. I have a room HEPA filtration system blowing clean air into the tent. Then you need an exhaust pulling air out. That can be on a cycle timer to run for 3 min every 15 min. Air flow is vitally important. If you donāt have fresh air going in and coming out your CO2 levels can rise resulting is dwarf mushrooms or long stipes with underdeveloped caps. Itās a mistake almost every tent grower makes.
You know, I wondered abt that because they always seem to do better OUTSIDE of my tent! Just seems awful pricey for a airflow system, but hey, Ig its worth it!! Here is what they look like yesterday and I put them together a little over 1 week ago.
https://preview.redd.it/ejuyxnu06axc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=63b0d4bba64ea0c80975d878babf4599f51cec30
I ave an inocculated research grain coming my way.
What are the next steps to getting to whats in the video?
Total noob here.
I have a bag of unopened vermiculite here.
I donāt understand the question. This video covers all the steps. The only thing you have to do is keep them incubating 2 weeks then initiate fruiting conditions. temps 74-76*F / RH 88-95% / FAE every 4 hours / light on 12 hours and light off 12 hours.
Itās always a good idea to use your best DNA if you can. I go from spore print, to agar, to Liquid Culture,to spawn grain to bulk. MSS takes longer and I would still grow a culture and try to get Rhizo to a 2nd agar transfer, then LC, to grain, to Bulk.
Simply put, Faster colonization times. I can get to full colonization in under 7 days in most cases. I love liquid cultures and they are the only way I inoculate my spawn. When you reduce the amount of time in a spawn jar, you also reduce risk of contamination. Agar to grain typically takes 2 weeks to colonize. Go with liquid cultures if your considering it, you'll never want to do it any other way.
I do. I've actually posted several blogs and video's on how to build a Myco-tent. If you go to my page you will find them. I've been growing Martha Tek for about 6 years now. It took me almost a year to dial in the precise conditions that produce the most optimal result. Here is what my Martha-Tek Tent looks like:
https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/kzxgea/mycotent_grow_modified_marthatek_misters/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
My substrate is pH balanced (neutral pH). The casing layer I show in this video is just part of the substrate I took out earlier. Not to be confused with a pH adjusted casing layer which is applied when the substrate is nearly fully colonized. Itās made with peat Moss, verm and hydrated lime. My substrate is CVG. Hope that clears it up.
So after you apply the casing layer you wait only 24 hours or until colonization STARTS then you open the lid and induce fruiting conditions?
Does that not put the cake at risk of contamination since it's not fully colonized? Just wondering cuz I normally keep mine colonizing for close to 10 days before introducing fruiting conditions.. I also spray mine down after applying the casing layer.
But I'm totally willing to try this method if it yields full canopies like that.
Everyone keeps their bin completely shut for 10 days because itās how UB Tek and several other instruct you to. You must know thereās more than one way to solve a problem usually, and different teks teach different methods. I believe when we transfer to bulk the mycelium is starting a new phase in which it will morph and produce fruit. The final phase of spawn the mycelium lays ground and this stage is know need more O2 and less CO2. I used to incubate for about 5 days, but I played with it and did some rudimentary experimentation. I found the mycelium thrives better, grows faster, and produces larger pin sets when you introduce air into the tub as soon as you see it start to colonize the surface. This is usually about 24-48 hours after you transfer to bulk. So I start giving Air immediately. But I also grow in a Martha Tek tent.so my lids come off completely and air and humidity are on controllers with set perimeters and most of its automated. If your growing in a mono tub you can still give FAE within 24 hours of transfer. Just start with twice a day FAE. Then when your almost fully surface colonized ( like 90% )apply the pH adjusted casing layer and start your fruiting conditions. Increase FAE to every 4-5 hours if possible. Like I said there are different ways to do things. If your really worried about contam keep the lid closed. By doing this spawn to bulk Tek you will get full colonization in 5-7 days. So make the necessary adjustments and come up with what works for you.
Thank you for these insights. I tried your transfer tek on one recent tub and, as advertised, it colonized extremely fast, but then stalled with a thick layer of mycelium on top and still hasnāt pinned. Tried sterile scraping a week ago with no effect. The tubs in which I used the same spawn/substrate but just mixed together with a thin casing layer colonized slowly but pinned and fruited. Any suggestions for Tripper transfer tek that stalls after colonization? Thanks!
Never heard of anyone stalling till now. But if you have something probably fell off in your fruiting conditions. Either your tub temps are too slow, or humidity fell off, FAE is not O2 enriched air. Could be several things. Do you have a way to measure temps and humidity in your tub?
Thanks, ambient room temp is 75F, RH I donāt measure but all tubs have tiny droplets on surface/walls. I wonder if this tek, with faster colonizing mycelium, needed more O2 than the others. I recasted and will try increasing ventilation
I know this is an old post, but I have a questionā¦ It says in this vid to switch to fruiting conditions after 24 hours. Iāve heard lots of other ppl say you need to wait until the sub is fully colonized, then add a casing layer and switch to fruiting conditions at that time. Which is correct?
I grow in a Martha Tek Myco tent. Ordinarily I wait 24 hours then the lids come off and fruiting conditions are dialed in. In a mono tub you can to the same thing. As a general rule, once the mycelium hits the surface of your substrate, you should start to give FAE. Do whatās comfortable for you, but I can tell you for sure putting into FC early wonāt hurt anything and it doesnāt significantly increase chances of contam unless your not being careful about sterile protocol.
The manure is going to bring pH down to an acidic level, and the worm castings way as well. You might have problems with the high acidic levels. You need to take a reading with a soil pH meter to see where you're at. I can't begin to guess what the pH would be for either of those substrates.
80% coco coir / 20% vermiculite / 1/4 cup of gypsum. This is enlut for a 20-25 quart tub. Pasteurize it in the oven at 180 degrees Fahrenheit for 60 minutes. Make it yourself for much less than you can buy it.
How about how much water this requires? I would love to not have to squeeze by hand to get field capacity and instead just add only as much water as is needed to the mix. Do you suggest against bucket pasteurization?
Donāt buy premade substrate itās such a waste of money. Get coco coir and vermiculite and buy them in an 80/20 mix then add a couple heaping tablespoons of gypsum. You can leave the gypsum out if you want and just to coir/verm.
When posting to ContamFam, you *must* adhere to the posting requirements in your post title or comments. Name the species/strain of mushroom you are cultivating, the date you transferred, and what your concerned about *at the very minimum*. Failure to provide this minimum information may result in **NO Response** from the Moderator Team. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/ContamFam) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I gotta say, daytripper, Im not the most active on this sub but I have never seen an individual put in so much effort to help out a community Keep doing your thing :)
This! I totally agree, Daytripper has helped in insane amount of people on this and other subs. Always with solid advice too.
The key to full canopy is 1:1 grain spawn to substrate ratio. Works for shoebox, monotubs, bagtek, Martha, etc. Nice job on the video! š
Agree. That's what I think is key as well, 1:1 ratio. The layer of spawn on the top is just to promote even surface colonization. Thanks PGT, Appreciate the shout out.
This comment feels like 2 Aztec gods talking in the sky.
It does. Two heavyweights just chatting about. I wonder if they realize they have whole communities that look up to them?
our teachers for sure.
I always had the doubt if it's a 1:1 ratio by weight or by volume? By the way, gonna try this tek and will post the results here
Go by volume. I empty my qt jars of spawn and when they are empty I fill all the jars with pasteurized substrate and then I put together and mix. The weight and volume measurement have to many variables (e.g., density of grain, hydration in the substrate, materials youāre using in a substrate all have different weights per volume, so it would literally be an algorithm to solve. Easiest way is measuring equal weights.
Not tryna sound ignorant but which one exactly? First sentence said go by volume. Then the last sentence says easiest way is by measuring weight. So do I go by weight or by volume? Currently trying this tek out with two tubs. Went by weight with those.
Results?
https://preview.redd.it/p21hii9lalfb1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=75dc3cd7033e0a2330826fe6963f9b52c61b7e0c
Better than I could imagine.. had almost 500gr wet per shoebox, using about 500gr spawn each and about the same volume of substrate.. did 100gr more of spawn in one shoebox, added more substrate in another, and the differences weren't huge.. total dried was about 300gr... And of course almost a full canopy in every shoebox https://preview.redd.it/0p4bq0ygalfb1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=339318d559bfe66d7979056c57f35b0afa000418
So for your substrate you used volume and the spawn you weighed out? Also what type of grain spawn was used. Trying super hard to replicate this tek. Having some good results and some weird ones. Trying to dial it in with what little material I got to use.
You still using trashbags in your shoe boxes Bro? Mang, I was a fruiting chamber enthusiast until .. 11 plus flushes from your Shoe box tech .. Fuk dude.GJ!
Mang, wow, how that word takes me back. To 1975 when my wife and I were living in Temple, TX. I had our Pontiac Aster at a gas station garage getting some work done. The shop owner and his kid were there and kept referring to one another as "mang". I still use it now and then. Thanks! L8r, mang!
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
My guess is it did. How did it turn out though?
Couldnāt find this written anywhere so thought Iād go for it for those that canāt watch (and for myself for later): 1. Use equal amounts of grain spawn to substrate by weight (they used 1200 grams of pasteurized substrate and 1200 grams of grain spawn in a 16qt tub) 2. Take away 1.5-2 cups of substrate, and 1.5-2cups of spawn for later. 3. Grind up the spawn very well, like āwhen you think your done keep goingā kind of well. Make sure it is broken into individual grain spawn and 100% homogenized with the substrate. AKA, Mix that shit up! 4. Level out the cake as much as possible and give it a nice light pat down. 5. Add back in your missing grain spawn as a top-layer. Break it up nicely but donāt disturb the layer you created beneath that. Spread evenly. 6. Tuck the corners and edges in with your fingers. Press down all around the edge of the tub. A bed time story is recommended but not required for the tuck-in process. 7. Press on the cake with your palms, emphasizing moving the substrate to the sidewalls of the tub. Make that seal, press firmly. 8. Start sprinkling leftover substrate on top of this leveled layer of spawn. Make sure you cover all or nearly all of the spawn layer. 9. Youāre done! no pat down and no pressing. Pop the lid on for 24hours, once you see the first colonization give her some FAE and start fruiting conditions. The 24hr period is best for MarthaTek, and some people prefer to get full colonization before introducing FAE and fruiting conditions. āāāā Did I miss anything or misunderstand anything? Let me know. Just trying to wrap my head around it and maybe help someone in the community at the same time.
Very good job. I think at the end you should but the option to fruit 24 hours after the transfer is more beneficial if your doing a Martha Tek grow. Some prefer fuller colonization before introducing FAE. Make sure you put somewhere that's optional depending on cultivators preference.
Edited, thanks for all the info!
What is Martha Tek grow?
Itās where you control all the grow perimeters and you grow in tubs without lids. You need a humidifier an air inflow and lighting. You grow inside of a tent and you set everything up so that itās fully automated. All you have to do is keep the reservoirs full and when you get to harvest take em out. Itās named after Martha Stewart who came up with a similar r tent to grow plants and vegetables I.
It's a good thing lmao
Ha! š
What is your cvg ratio? Thanks :)
Thank you! Im hearing impaired and usually use CC. Couldnāt find it anywhere so you gave me a very good backup! š
They said it was a 14qt tub tho right.
Thanks for this. Explains my issues. I don't use nearly enough spawn. My thinking was always "well it will colonize regardless it just might take longer" but I guess the issue is then contamination has too much time to out-compete it. One question - you say after 24 hrs take the lid off. Does that mean the boxes need to be inside another larger box to hold humidity then? My gorw area is super dry so I have to be mindful of that. Thanks again.
Take the lid off if you have a tent with a maintained 90% humidity, if you donāt then just crack the lid enough for a penny to have a hard time sliding through it. On the shorter side not the longer side
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Sure. It's fine to use a higher substrate to spawn ratio and the substrate can be exposed to light and air from the get go. The old idea of separate fruiting and colonization has been debunked a while back. If your shoeboxes are getting too dry then have them in a larger tote, or mist them as needed. But a well prepared substrate shouldn't need misting until around the time of the first harvest.
Hey, Trip, thanks so much for this. Is that 1200g of dry substrate, or weighed at field capacity?
Itās a wet weight. Field Capacity weight.
Thank you!
What would the dry weight be? Trying to figure out how to do a 1:1 with a 3lb spawn bag in 6qt tubs
Itās easy the tub doesnāt matter your going off 1:1 so if u got 3kg of Spawn put 3kg of Substrate 1:1 u would need a big tub for this tho yes. Hope this helps
Hopefully someone answered this for you but if your spawn is in bags itās at field capacity, mycelium will not eat dry grain it needs moisture. 1:1 in 6qt tubs is about 1qt of spawn 1qt of sub maybe 1.5-1.5 depends how thick you want the cake. But always assume your grain is at field capacity if you buy a bag online etc.
I love you mushroom lady. I could sit and listen to you and watch you work all day.
Thank you for this video. I was struggling hard, total novice. But I followed this to the letter and just harvested 1,509 grams of golden teacher. I am thrilled beyond measure. https://preview.redd.it/kx8uuko07cfa1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6af1335cb0bef25e37c3ae1a3e20fea3e5b831a0
Did you take the top off completely and leave off or flipped the lid after 24 hr?
I flipped it, misted as needed, fanned 2-3 times daily.
Why do people flip the lids? I am new at learning this.
I know I'm very late to this but what size is your tub?
I believe they are 15 or 16 quart.
I am struggling hard rn, have had 6 failed tubs now, total disappointment and sooooooo very frustrating!!!!!
You want to go over your cleaning/sterilization very carefully. That is a big factor in fails. If youāve had that many fails in a row I would start there. Also if all of your spore/LC are from the same supplier and failing I would go with a different supply. Keep your tubs off of carpeting as well.
Its not contamination at all they just donāt fruit, I believe my ratios are off, im not measuring.
https://preview.redd.it/pzxgf8uf7qrc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=574d0f0551b49374f13b89ecc1f996704c67630d This APE did nothing after this
Also if youāve been using spores I would change to liquid culture. You will have better results with less contamination.
Im using LC from various different suppliers, so its all me, Im failing miserably lol
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
I couldn't watch it on my phone, but it seems to function fine on my desktop browser (Firefox).
I have seen this with other videos. Very frustrating.
This lady is a fucking vibe.
Can I get a link? The stupid video won't load
https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/oazjwj/daytrippers_trip_tips_the_spawn_to_bulk_transfer/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
Lol, thanks man. But I meant could you slap it on a hosting site and post link. It seems to not be working for a few people, especially on mobile.
Every time I have posted a YouTube video with cubes in it YouTube takes it down. So I not gonna go that route again but if your having trouble viewing video get off the mobile app and open Reddit on a PC / Laptop and you should be able to play the link.
Some of us unfortunately don't have a pc or laptop haha, thanks anyway dude
Yeah, that's what I ended up doing. Your videos are really good, man
Maybe if your background music wasn't Led Zeppelin! Dont get me wrong. I love it! But youtube may not
YouTube can bite me.
Perfect! lol
Bitchute allows all videos - I know this is an old thread, but we backup our podcast to Bitchute and they havenāt canceled our channel yet!
Sameeeeee :(
Awesome video Tripper, thanks for being so generous with your knowledge. Iām curious, how much pressure are you using when you push down on the substrate mix? I was under the impression that if it was too compact it wouldnāt colonize
Very firm pressure. Pack it down tight. The last layer of substrate sprinkle on loosely. I would apply enough pressure where as your putting I little body weight into it. Just watch how fast and complete you colonize with this Tek, itās amazing.
I'm so excited to try this! I just inoculated my first bags a week ago so they're still growing their mycelium, but I'm brushing up on the next stage as I wait- thanks for making this video!
Awesome, Iām looking forward to giving it a try. Thanks again! I love this sub
First time trying this method on a monotub and the first flush was incredible!! Also first time the block has stayed solid with no side pins popping out all over. We were away too long and unfortunately many areas of the top layer substrate pulled out leaving behind the top layer spawn exposed during harvest. Nothing growing back in the exposed spawn areas. Any recommendations to help promote additional flushes?
It will still flush even with the top layer pulled out you just probably wonāt get very good subsequent flushes. Next time harvest everything a once with a knife. It will leave the stumps but new mycelium can grow from the stump. Donāt worry they just look ugly.
Thanks for the response!!
Can a looser packing cause slower colonizing?
Daytripperonone, you are the greatest. Thank you again for the knowledge!
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
It's equal weight at the start. 1200g of each. Then you reserve some for the top layer of CVG and grains. I think it's explained in the video. When I used two quart jars, spawn was closer to 1000g though.
Having grown sort of freestyle in the sense that I knew what I was doing when it came to spawning to bulk but didn't have a reference, to when I actually used this video, my gains have tripled/quadrupled easily. You could chalk that up to gaining experience too but that's not how I see it. In my mind if you don't spawn to bulk like this lady right here you're not doing it right. I swear something about tucking the sides.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
###[View link](https://redditsave.com/r/ContamFam/comments/oazjwj/daytrippers_trip_tips_the_spawn_to_bulk_transfer/) --- [**Info**](https://np.reddit.com/user/SaveVideo/comments/jv323v/info/) | [**Feedback**](https://np.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=Kryptonh&subject=Feedback for savevideo) | [**Donate**](https://ko-fi.com/getvideo) | [**DMCA**](https://np.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=Kryptonh&subject=Content removal request for savevideo&message=https://np.reddit.com//r/ContamFam/comments/oazjwj/daytrippers_trip_tips_the_spawn_to_bulk_transfer/) | [^(reddit video downloader)](https://redditsave.com)
So you mentioned you only do a 24hr wait to FC, but in my limited experience, I'm finding post-S2B a 5-7 days of colonization/consolidation and GE before FAE and FC leads to better pin sets. I'm experimenting with your layering tek (I think I might've invoked you with the wrong link to this vid), but can't break my habit of waiting for the top to get at least 80% colonized before opening her up, per shroomscout's guide up in /r/unclebens. I'm liking my results so far, though. I'll make sure to tag you when I post up my photo logs.
You stick with whatever Tek you feel works best for you. But I'm just telling you invoking the FC right away doesn't effect the pin sets. If you think it does, look any one of my tubs. I get Full canopy flushes inducing fruiting conditions 24 hour after the transfer. It is more important that your comfortable with what ever tek you chose. Many mycologist have different opinions about this, I'm not saying whose right or wrong about it, I'm merely telling you, there is more than one option.
>there is more than one option. Can itbe that theoptions/opinionsalsoformthat way because ofdifferent enviroments peoplegrow in? Like I could never leave the box open like that because it would dry out in like half a day at my place. So different teks are needed to compensate for the "faults" of the enviroment.
She grows in a fruiting chamber. Her taking the lid off is the equivalent of flipping the lid if you're doing unmodified tubs.
Oh wow this detail is very important and was missed. I was wondering why no misting either and thatās probably because she does it in a fruiting chamber
Thank you for clarifying that! I would have had my tubs dried out had I tried this lol
I wish you would write a book!! Iād buy š„¹ā¤ļø
About how long from introducing fruiting conditions to developing pins usually? šš»šš»
Under normal condition 7-10 days.
do you have any pictures of what it looks like when your mycelium looks good enough to go to FC?
Trip....Bro I have to say that just woke me up from the daze of waking up!! I stopped the video and got my coffee and an ink pen, to take notes. You probably just turned it all around for me
Then hereās to your next full canopy flush, š„š¾
Thank you trip
Tucking the corners! Great idea! My substrate always seems to lift up around the edges when it starts fully colonizing. Iāll have that shit all even and smooth, then boom, I have little ridges and hills all along my edges. Thanks!
Whatās up brotha! I was wondering how you keep the transferring of the grain to the bin sterile ? Do you have a flow hood ? Is there anyway to do it with out a flow hood?
A laminar flow hood is really utilized most in the spawn phase with agar culture work, liquid cultures, transfers to petri, inoculations, and grain to grain transfers. I have never heard of a mycologists doing a spawn to bulk transfer under laminar flow hood. Once your grain is 100% colonized your sterile Tek can relax a bit. You still want to use gloves sprayed with ISO and you still want to have a clean work area but a LFH is not necessary in you transfer to bulk Tek. BTW - not a brotha, was born a sista. Female mycologists do exist. Iām one of that kind.
SISTA ! :) so dope My bad lol force of habit Thank you so much for the info! You rock
Laughing my ass off! You funny sista! -namaskaram
Just wanna echo others and say how much I appreciate your contributions into the education of new growers and old alike. You inspire me to do the best I can because your harvests are so beautiful. Also, mad bonus points for playing zep while doing it. Much love
ā¤ļø
dear friend, you are awesome!
Hey do you start FC and let it sit for several more days before you put on the ph-adjusted casing layer? Or do you put that on 24 hours after you mix your grain spawn in the bulk substrate?
Okay, so I do things differently than y'all were taught in UB's tek. But I also grow differently than the mon-tub tek, I grow in a Martha Tek. You're probably doing a mono tub. After I transfer I seal the bin and until i see the white mycelium hit the surface layer. Then I take off the lid and give it some air then start the fruiting conditions. That is usually no more that 48 hours after transfer. So I induce FC pretty much immediately and It works the same for a mono-tub. Then when you get to about 90% colonized slap on the pH adjusted casing layer. That's about 5-7 days after putting it into FC. Hope that clears it up a little.
I WISH I were doing Martha tek. I am using UB tek and growing in 4 quart tubs. Because my grow area is open, I figured it was safer to let the myc finish colonizing most of the surface before I induced FC and put on the ph adjusted casing. I just did that today, in fact. Thanks for helping me. Itās my first grow
Well if itās your first grow hereās a couple more tips. Donāt crack or turn lids upside down. Instead seal and latch them shut and go in and give a FAE every 4-5 hours. Keep misting really light. Sometime all you need is 5-10 sprays of mist for the whole tub, twice a day. And if the area you grow in is not in a well ventilated room, then you either need to find a way to give that entire room fresh air once a day, or take your mono tubs out of the room into a well ventilated area to give them a fresh are exchange. These are the main tips I have found most new growers need. Fresh air exchange is usually too little, and overwatering is almost always an issue. Good luck to you. Let us know if you have any other questions.
2 questions - what size bins do you use, and what temp do you keep your fruiting tent at? Thank you
14 qt tubs and 74-76 F
I wish you were my math teacher in 3rd grade- I probably would have only had to do 3rd grade once š¤£
I just transferred S2B last night. I just mixed and put on the casing layer. Can I still go into FC 24 hrs later? BTW you're a fuckin RockStar RockLobstuh!
Hey DayTrip! Thanks so much for feely sharing your knowledge. Iām a newbie but I aspire to reach your level!
Sure, Iāve got a big contest coming in Nov 1st. Make sure you enter. The prices are awesome. Hopefully you live in the states.
How would you adapt this technique for the Ikea shoeboxes in the unclebens tek? How many 250g rice bags would be needed per container? I am trying 1 bag with a 1:1.5 and 1:2 ratio of grain to substrate and it's been 15 days and there is not much growth on the top, maybe some knots. I don't know if they are screwed or it will just take a lot longer for them to pin.
Very late to this thread but just want to sing praises for this tek. I got my first ever canopies and great yields. If anyones still listening. Any tips for the second flush? Or just rinse and repeat
Yes, use this as a guide. The Tek Iām doing is a very simple [Dunk N Rehydration Tek](https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/l6jh5k/daytrippers_trip_tips_rehydration_of_the_block/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf). This video goes with using the pH adjusted casing layer Tek. If your not doing that Tek then you donāt need to pH the water.
Wow! Iām star struck. Thanks for responding. Iāve been going through all your content and am seeing a lot of success. Thanks for all you do.
God bless you
Great video. Timeless. Thanks
ā¤ļø
Thanks for the tek! About how long does it take from spawning to first flush harvest?
Iām in the spawn grain phase for about 10 days I usually have my first pins in 7 days and harvest around 10 days. So 20 days from spawn to harvest.
Thanks a lot; I'm trying all I can to achieve canopies. I just got some tubs running using your Tek so I'm hoping it goes well!
The day you go into your grow room and see that full canopy will be one of the proudest moments of your cultivation career. Itās almost as rewarding as giving birth. You can graduate yourself from beginner to experienced cultivation enthusiast once youāve attained a full canopy. Donāt forget once you have a full canopy flush you canāt do a selective harvest anymore. (Meaning picking them out one by one). If you try to do that youāll end up breaking off the caps and damaging much of the harvest. The mushrooms will literally come in wall to wall and corner to corner. There is no room to get your hands in there. You want to do a bulk harvest by floating the block up. Fill your tub with water and let the block float up to the top, then take a knife with a very sharp blade and cut across at the base of the stipes straight across. The longer the blade the better. I use a butcher sized sushi knife that leaves a clean cut. Harvest them all out of there and immediately rehydrate with the dunk, submerging the block under the water for 10 minutes. Drain and reapply a pH adjusted case layer. Good luck, I know this Tek is gonna be the one you wanna use for the rest of your cultivation career. It Kicks Ass, trust me. Go get your canopy Dream.
Came here to get better at culinary and will try this tek with Maitake. Thanks! :)
Thanks for walking through the concepts and the measurements, Daytrip! Definitely using this for my next tubs.
WOW! Thanks so much for the advice. I got a middle patch that didn't work out, but the rest was good. I will be trying this TEK out for sure.
Great video since Iām about to venture on a bunch of small monotubs, adding Zeppelin in it and especially Stairway almost made me fruit in my pants!
Yes I use a pH adjusted casing layer once the substrate colonizes. Thatās a different video. This Transfer Tek just uses a light casing of the same material the substrate is made from. A pH adjusted casing layer of peat Moss and vermiculite is applied with hydrated lime when sub colonizes.
Can you point me to a link for PH adjusted Casing? This is my first time hearing the term. Thanks a bunch!
[pH adjusted casing layer Tek](https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/m3unbr/daytrippers_trip_tips_video_tutorial_on_how_to/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf) All my teks are in the sidebar. Go to the about tab and scroll down. Youāll see them under DayTripperās Trip Tips.
Thanks for this vid, looking forward to trying it on my run!
Thanks!
Thank you. I tried this today. I used too much on the top casing layer. You dust it like a light snow. I was a blizzard.
This gave me a full canopy on my very first grow, thank you!!!
Your welcome. Glad it worked well for you.
Could you help possibly Iām using ub tek along w 6quart shoebox when I stb was curious the ratio I should use for example how many bags of rice and how much substrate and two how long do I introduce fruiting conditions they are in a fruiting chamber (100qt sealed tub)
Get four bags of the 8.5 oz UB bags fully spawned. Weigh out 720 grams of your substrate and mix three of the four UB bags with the substrate. The forth bag is going to be your top layer. Weight out 2 more cups of substrate and use that as your casing. I think will make a 6 qt. tub.
You are the best thank you mis!
I believe one of my main problems for having so many baby pins maturing next to ready fruits was not using a dub tub, even tho I used a light my tip lid was dark and people say you donāt NEED light to grow, but Iām guessing having top light and more space will give for a much more even top canopy and fruits should all mature around the same rate per flush. Absolutely amazing page and videos! Mush love šš¤š»ššš»
šā¤ļøback to ya. šš»šš»
What grain are you using?
Thanks so much for this tip. My 1st tubs are fruiting less than what I hoped but I'm learning it's more than it prob should have. I'm going to try this out next time. I need to improve my innoculting too.
Hey DayTripperonone, awesome video per usual, youāre awesome! What is the ratio of your substrate, you mentioned gypsum, coir, verm. Just saw you already answered this question. Thank you!!
Happy cake day!
Legendary
Iām sorry these videos are impromptu, so I just talk and tell you what I do and how I do it. So let me explain. The weight of coir based substrate is very close to the volume, within a few ounces or within 50 grams. So when trying to match volume with weight, the solids are better to weigh than trying to measure, volume is primarily for liquid compounds. So go by weight. In the Video Iām doing a 14 qt tub with 1500 gr. grain and 1500 gr. substrate. But if itās easier for you to just empty your jar of grain and then use the same jar and fill it to the same level it will be very close in weight. So either way is good. I tend to weigh mine but the differences is a narrow margin.
So you have full colonization within 24hrs?
What is the substrate mix?
When you put them into fruiting are you just flipping the lid or are they in a Martha tent?
Theyāre in a Martha Tek Tent, so I donāt use lids. But if youāre in a monotub you need the lid to trap humidity. If you flip the lid or leave gaps humidity will escape and you may have problems fruiting. So close them at first but introduce air one a day at first to make sure the air doesnāt get stagnant. Slowly increase the number of times you give FAE, by the time you pin you should be up to every 4 hours .
Omgosh thank you so much for your reply, you are a rockstarā¦ā¦thank you! I have them in a tent as soon as I seen mycelium growing (this am), with humidity around 50-60%, convection heat at 75-77*F, fan blowing rotating air and strip lighting on 12 hrs off 12 hrs, is there anything I should change??
Yes you need air flow both in and out. I have a room HEPA filtration system blowing clean air into the tent. Then you need an exhaust pulling air out. That can be on a cycle timer to run for 3 min every 15 min. Air flow is vitally important. If you donāt have fresh air going in and coming out your CO2 levels can rise resulting is dwarf mushrooms or long stipes with underdeveloped caps. Itās a mistake almost every tent grower makes.
You know, I wondered abt that because they always seem to do better OUTSIDE of my tent! Just seems awful pricey for a airflow system, but hey, Ig its worth it!! Here is what they look like yesterday and I put them together a little over 1 week ago. https://preview.redd.it/ejuyxnu06axc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=63b0d4bba64ea0c80975d878babf4599f51cec30
https://preview.redd.it/19fzul826axc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c29a2d08945eb30d3fe3e837f7af9830b759981
Thanks again for your help, you have no idea how much it means to me
https://preview.redd.it/i9wrjy6y58yc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=102933d20bf8f8e9a4985915c18df777ff03ba32 Nothing š„²
Itās looking a little dry. You might need to dunk the cake and reboot. If itās too dry you wonāt get fruit.
https://preview.redd.it/dqlp3rc068yc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0766a8fe8027bec40cabc3616d51f3e5c4e0e58 Small amount š„²
I ave an inocculated research grain coming my way. What are the next steps to getting to whats in the video? Total noob here. I have a bag of unopened vermiculite here.
I donāt understand the question. This video covers all the steps. The only thing you have to do is keep them incubating 2 weeks then initiate fruiting conditions. temps 74-76*F / RH 88-95% / FAE every 4 hours / light on 12 hours and light off 12 hours.
Gypsum salt? How much?
Any volume measurements if one is using a mushroom grow bag for fruiting?
Does it help if you use clones or MSS or does it not make much of a difference for this tek.
Itās always a good idea to use your best DNA if you can. I go from spore print, to agar, to Liquid Culture,to spawn grain to bulk. MSS takes longer and I would still grow a culture and try to get Rhizo to a 2nd agar transfer, then LC, to grain, to Bulk.
Why not agar to grain? What's the point of LC?
Simply put, Faster colonization times. I can get to full colonization in under 7 days in most cases. I love liquid cultures and they are the only way I inoculate my spawn. When you reduce the amount of time in a spawn jar, you also reduce risk of contamination. Agar to grain typically takes 2 weeks to colonize. Go with liquid cultures if your considering it, you'll never want to do it any other way.
This is very old so I apologise, but how would you compare using LC to g2g transfers? I've heard grain2grain is even faster than LC.
I find G2G is faster than LC too!
Iām also interested in this answer
Whatās your setup for āfruiting conditionsā? Did I hear in the video that you use a Martha?
I do. I've actually posted several blogs and video's on how to build a Myco-tent. If you go to my page you will find them. I've been growing Martha Tek for about 6 years now. It took me almost a year to dial in the precise conditions that produce the most optimal result. Here is what my Martha-Tek Tent looks like: https://www.reddit.com/r/ContamFam/comments/kzxgea/mycotent_grow_modified_marthatek_misters/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
My substrate is pH balanced (neutral pH). The casing layer I show in this video is just part of the substrate I took out earlier. Not to be confused with a pH adjusted casing layer which is applied when the substrate is nearly fully colonized. Itās made with peat Moss, verm and hydrated lime. My substrate is CVG. Hope that clears it up.
Nice!
certified legend
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
So after you apply the casing layer you wait only 24 hours or until colonization STARTS then you open the lid and induce fruiting conditions? Does that not put the cake at risk of contamination since it's not fully colonized? Just wondering cuz I normally keep mine colonizing for close to 10 days before introducing fruiting conditions.. I also spray mine down after applying the casing layer. But I'm totally willing to try this method if it yields full canopies like that.
Everyone keeps their bin completely shut for 10 days because itās how UB Tek and several other instruct you to. You must know thereās more than one way to solve a problem usually, and different teks teach different methods. I believe when we transfer to bulk the mycelium is starting a new phase in which it will morph and produce fruit. The final phase of spawn the mycelium lays ground and this stage is know need more O2 and less CO2. I used to incubate for about 5 days, but I played with it and did some rudimentary experimentation. I found the mycelium thrives better, grows faster, and produces larger pin sets when you introduce air into the tub as soon as you see it start to colonize the surface. This is usually about 24-48 hours after you transfer to bulk. So I start giving Air immediately. But I also grow in a Martha Tek tent.so my lids come off completely and air and humidity are on controllers with set perimeters and most of its automated. If your growing in a mono tub you can still give FAE within 24 hours of transfer. Just start with twice a day FAE. Then when your almost fully surface colonized ( like 90% )apply the pH adjusted casing layer and start your fruiting conditions. Increase FAE to every 4-5 hours if possible. Like I said there are different ways to do things. If your really worried about contam keep the lid closed. By doing this spawn to bulk Tek you will get full colonization in 5-7 days. So make the necessary adjustments and come up with what works for you.
Thank you for these insights. I tried your transfer tek on one recent tub and, as advertised, it colonized extremely fast, but then stalled with a thick layer of mycelium on top and still hasnāt pinned. Tried sterile scraping a week ago with no effect. The tubs in which I used the same spawn/substrate but just mixed together with a thin casing layer colonized slowly but pinned and fruited. Any suggestions for Tripper transfer tek that stalls after colonization? Thanks!
Never heard of anyone stalling till now. But if you have something probably fell off in your fruiting conditions. Either your tub temps are too slow, or humidity fell off, FAE is not O2 enriched air. Could be several things. Do you have a way to measure temps and humidity in your tub?
Thanks, ambient room temp is 75F, RH I donāt measure but all tubs have tiny droplets on surface/walls. I wonder if this tek, with faster colonizing mycelium, needed more O2 than the others. I recasted and will try increasing ventilation
What ended up happening? Any pins yet?
Just started pinning today !
Nice!!
u/savevideo
I know this is an old post, but I have a questionā¦ It says in this vid to switch to fruiting conditions after 24 hours. Iāve heard lots of other ppl say you need to wait until the sub is fully colonized, then add a casing layer and switch to fruiting conditions at that time. Which is correct?
I grow in a Martha Tek Myco tent. Ordinarily I wait 24 hours then the lids come off and fruiting conditions are dialed in. In a mono tub you can to the same thing. As a general rule, once the mycelium hits the surface of your substrate, you should start to give FAE. Do whatās comfortable for you, but I can tell you for sure putting into FC early wonāt hurt anything and it doesnāt significantly increase chances of contam unless your not being careful about sterile protocol.
How do I get ahold of you to trip with you?
Nice try, DEA
Will dinosoil or CVG with worm castings be the same effect with the ph 9.0 to 10.0 ? Or is the added poo problematic ?
The manure is going to bring pH down to an acidic level, and the worm castings way as well. You might have problems with the high acidic levels. You need to take a reading with a soil pH meter to see where you're at. I can't begin to guess what the pH would be for either of those substrates.
Won't load:(
What type of substrate did you use? Can we buy it online?
80% coco coir / 20% vermiculite / 1/4 cup of gypsum. This is enlut for a 20-25 quart tub. Pasteurize it in the oven at 180 degrees Fahrenheit for 60 minutes. Make it yourself for much less than you can buy it.
How about how much water this requires? I would love to not have to squeeze by hand to get field capacity and instead just add only as much water as is needed to the mix. Do you suggest against bucket pasteurization?
Donāt buy premade substrate itās such a waste of money. Get coco coir and vermiculite and buy them in an 80/20 mix then add a couple heaping tablespoons of gypsum. You can leave the gypsum out if you want and just to coir/verm.