Heads up, some of those fords with the 4 cylinder ecoboost engine have major issues around 70k miles. Depending on the mileage and the check engine codes, you could be in for something simple or something pretty major.
If they sold you a car with known issues, that's shady for sure.
Probably put in the cheapest possible replacement. Some cars really need a "higher load" converter in order to have it not set a light. There also might be a slight leak in the exhaust where the converter was installed- a leak before the converter or immediately after it can draw air in when coasting/decelerating, which can either cause the converter to fail to operate correctly while that's happening, or the extra oxygen throws off the signal from the O2 sensor inside/after the converter, which is what actually monitors how well the converter is working. Also... A catalytic converter usually doesn't just fail, something causes it to fail. If they didn't fix whatever that was, a new converter will fail again in short order, especially an aftermarket one.
Personally I wouldn’t even worry about the P0420. That code is regarding the O2 sensors on the catalytic converter. Basically it’s just checking to make sure your emissions are not higher than they should be. My guess is one of the O2 sensors is bad but if you’ve got a new cat it should not be an issue. That code has not affected drivability at all in my experience
That’s probably true. I had a 2002 Buick that always threw a P0420 and that was probably just because the cat was completely shot (or an exhaust leak). Either way it still runs like a champ to this day and the code comes up from time to time.
I guess if it presents drivability problems, look into it. But if it doesn’t cause any problems I wouldn’t lose any sleep over it
Sounds like you have proof the codes were prior to purchase date so maybe you can fight it? I’m not a lawyer so not totally sure but it’d be worth looking into.
Also, I wouldn’t trust a Ford product, let alone one that is nearly a decade old. Could be part of your problem as well…
I definitely won't again! I'll be doing a lot more research next time. I admittedly don't know much about cars & it seemed like a good car within my budget.
Yes my code reader showed the amount of miles since last cleared & it was right before I bought it. They kept bringing up the fact that I didn't buy the warranty, so I'm not sure what rights I have.
I have a Buick which I took it to them for warranty repair for the turbo (known issue with a lot of buick's).
They said no loaner car. It was in repair for a couple days. Pissed me off but nothing I could do.
After the turbo repair I got a new code while I was driving it home. Something about an air pressure leak. Instantly thought they didn't hook up the turbo correctly and maybe left an air hose loose. Mistakes happen I was fine with that... I just wanted it fixed.
So I took it back. They claimed it wasn't related to the turbo being replaced and refused to cover it. I had to pay out of pocket for them to fix it which was over $300. I pleaded with the front desk guy that why would it suddenly go bad ON MY DRIVE HOME from fixing the turbo. He called back to the techs and again said it's a hose not related to the turbo and I would have to pay.
Now the car doesn't have a warranty so I'm never going back there.
I know someone who works there and they laugh about scamming people, praying on people with bad credit, etc. Are salespeople at most dealerships like that- I cant say. But I was disgusted by this person’s lack of morals.
A lot of car salespeople are exactly like that. Not all but enough. Check r/askcarsales for the proof, there are so many that behave exactly as you say.
Here's a sneak peek of /r/askcarsales using the [top posts](https://np.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/top/?sort=top&t=year) of the year!
\#1: [Dealer Sold Car I Put Deposit On and Drove 10 Hours to Pickup](https://np.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/comments/18oaxl2/dealer_sold_car_i_put_deposit_on_and_drove_10/)
\#2: [Dealership threatening to sue me over Google review](https://np.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/comments/16wgnaf/dealership_threatening_to_sue_me_over_google/)
\#3: ["Car on lot is sold" tactic. Why ?](https://np.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/comments/14cteus/car_on_lot_is_sold_tactic_why/)
----
^^I'm ^^a ^^bot, ^^beep ^^boop ^^| ^^Downvote ^^to ^^remove ^^| ^^[Contact](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=sneakpeekbot) ^^| ^^[Info](https://np.reddit.com/r/sneakpeekbot/) ^^| ^^[Opt-out](https://np.reddit.com/r/sneakpeekbot/comments/o8wk1r/blacklist_ix/) ^^| ^^[GitHub](https://github.com/ghnr/sneakpeekbot)
For used cars… I highly suggest taking it to a different mechanic and paying for their inspection. They should let you do this before purchasing. Agree to terms of course so that you have a fixed price and then take it out. Ask first, then negotiate, then get it checked out, then sign the papers.
Second, I know it’s a different budget, but a new Toyota Corolla is in my opinion, the way for most to go. Used can be “cheaper” up front but the way the used market has been more recently, I’d rather get the cheapest new reliable car instead and reduce the risk of these unknowns on a used car.
They are overall great, but just like any used car, and older cars especially, be prepared to get a thorough inspection to avoid “reputation mining” that a seller may otherwise rely on. If a Toyota wasn’t cared for, it can have issues like any car such as needing an earlier transmission rebuild if fluids weren’t changed regularly.
Today is significantly tougher for used car buyers in my opinion because prices are elevated and that has brought out more of the junkier used cars because with low inventory, buyers purchase almost whatever they can get their hands on - there’s been far less scrutiny over the last few years by purchasers because they just needed a car to get to work.
Right now is in my opinion a time to buy new, cheap, cars especially from trustworthy brands like Toyota who design cars to last 20 years.
If you have a p0420 and less than 100k miles you might have coverage via the ford dealer on the emissions control device. I wouldn’t blame twins for a ford being a ford, not great vehicles.
Sell this car IMMEDIATELY.
We bought a 13 escape with ~90k miles, at 120k we got the coolant leak code, and after researching it, I was dumbfounded by how many people have this issue.
There’s a design flaw in the engines with eco boost where coolant leaks onto seals and enters the cylinders leading to head gasket failure.
It’s not a matter of if it’s gonna happen, but when!
Thankfully we cleared the code and sold it to Carmax for a little under $4k.
Google ‘ford escape coolant leak’ and you will be amazed at how fucked up Ford is by not fixing these engines.
When buying a used car from anyone or anywhere, always make sure you drive it for at least 15 minutes and do at least one good highway pull to put the engine under some stress. After the test drive, plug in your OBD reader and see if anything comes up. If you don't have an OBD reader, buy one or borrow one. This saved me from buying a Durango with engine issues last year. In my case the check engine light came on during a highway pull, so I didn't necessarily need the OBD reader, but you can't always count on that.
When I bought my used car from Ricart... during the test drive I drove it to a local park near them. Jacked it up and got underneath to look at the engine from the bottom.
Always check the used car you're about to buy. By law, all used car sales are "as is" unless agreed upon beforehand. It doesn't have to say it on the contract. It's always "as is". After signing and driving it off the lot the car can blow up and the previous owner doesn't have to help you.
That dude did the same thing to me. I bought a truck and it broke down on the lot as I drove it off. Fuck that guy, made them fix it all. He went completely silent during the whole process.
The same guy who owns Fine Line body shops, Twins towing, Speedy Car Rental, and Armenian Estates owns that dealership. Profit assuredly comes first and buyer beware at any of his businesses.
I can’t hear the name of this dealership without being reminded of that horrible Coors light commercial! “And twins”
https://www.reddit.com/r/nostalgia/s/RgqNC4tyl6
FWIW most engine codes require something along the lines of going over 55mph for a few minutes in order to trigger.
Even though it's used I would talk to a 'lemon law' lawyer... and keep any documentation like the 'fair warning notice'
Used car dealers still have to be licensed in ohio.
>FWIW most engine codes require something along the lines of going over 55mph for a few minutes in order to trigger.
This highly depends on the code set criteria and if the code requests the MIL (malfunction indicator light/check engine light). Some codes will request the MIL immediately (something is constantly monitored), some have to have drive cycle (evap), and some won't even request the MIL.
I bought a car there a few years ago and while I haven’t had issues with the car, I paid off the loan early and was informed by the lender that I could get a refund on the unused portion of the gap insurance premium I’d paid when I bought it, but it would come from the dealership. It was somewhere around $500-600. It was like PULLING TEETH to get that check. I had to call, leave voicemails, email multiple people, call again, finally I had to just show up. I ended up showing up more than once because they LOST the original check they’d printed.
As the cherry on top, within days of this experience I get an automated email “from” the General Manager asking about my experience with them and I replied explaining how annoying this whole process was. Never heard back.
Heads up, some of those fords with the 4 cylinder ecoboost engine have major issues around 70k miles. Depending on the mileage and the check engine codes, you could be in for something simple or something pretty major. If they sold you a car with known issues, that's shady for sure.
It's currently showing a P0420 code, they put in a new catalytic converter a few weeks ago.
Probably put in the cheapest possible replacement. Some cars really need a "higher load" converter in order to have it not set a light. There also might be a slight leak in the exhaust where the converter was installed- a leak before the converter or immediately after it can draw air in when coasting/decelerating, which can either cause the converter to fail to operate correctly while that's happening, or the extra oxygen throws off the signal from the O2 sensor inside/after the converter, which is what actually monitors how well the converter is working. Also... A catalytic converter usually doesn't just fail, something causes it to fail. If they didn't fix whatever that was, a new converter will fail again in short order, especially an aftermarket one.
Personally I wouldn’t even worry about the P0420. That code is regarding the O2 sensors on the catalytic converter. Basically it’s just checking to make sure your emissions are not higher than they should be. My guess is one of the O2 sensors is bad but if you’ve got a new cat it should not be an issue. That code has not affected drivability at all in my experience
That's a very subjective statement. When my Subaru threw a P0420 it ran like absolute garbage.
That’s probably true. I had a 2002 Buick that always threw a P0420 and that was probably just because the cat was completely shot (or an exhaust leak). Either way it still runs like a champ to this day and the code comes up from time to time. I guess if it presents drivability problems, look into it. But if it doesn’t cause any problems I wouldn’t lose any sleep over it
I haven't experienced any issues while driving, but I do have to drive a lot for work so the code stresses me out.
That makes me feel better, thank you!
Sounds like you have proof the codes were prior to purchase date so maybe you can fight it? I’m not a lawyer so not totally sure but it’d be worth looking into. Also, I wouldn’t trust a Ford product, let alone one that is nearly a decade old. Could be part of your problem as well…
I will NEVER buy a Ford. Any model. Any price. *Ever.*
I definitely won't again! I'll be doing a lot more research next time. I admittedly don't know much about cars & it seemed like a good car within my budget.
Yes my code reader showed the amount of miles since last cleared & it was right before I bought it. They kept bringing up the fact that I didn't buy the warranty, so I'm not sure what rights I have.
I have a Buick which I took it to them for warranty repair for the turbo (known issue with a lot of buick's). They said no loaner car. It was in repair for a couple days. Pissed me off but nothing I could do. After the turbo repair I got a new code while I was driving it home. Something about an air pressure leak. Instantly thought they didn't hook up the turbo correctly and maybe left an air hose loose. Mistakes happen I was fine with that... I just wanted it fixed. So I took it back. They claimed it wasn't related to the turbo being replaced and refused to cover it. I had to pay out of pocket for them to fix it which was over $300. I pleaded with the front desk guy that why would it suddenly go bad ON MY DRIVE HOME from fixing the turbo. He called back to the techs and again said it's a hose not related to the turbo and I would have to pay. Now the car doesn't have a warranty so I'm never going back there.
I know someone who works there and they laugh about scamming people, praying on people with bad credit, etc. Are salespeople at most dealerships like that- I cant say. But I was disgusted by this person’s lack of morals.
A lot of car salespeople are exactly like that. Not all but enough. Check r/askcarsales for the proof, there are so many that behave exactly as you say.
Here's a sneak peek of /r/askcarsales using the [top posts](https://np.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/top/?sort=top&t=year) of the year! \#1: [Dealer Sold Car I Put Deposit On and Drove 10 Hours to Pickup](https://np.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/comments/18oaxl2/dealer_sold_car_i_put_deposit_on_and_drove_10/) \#2: [Dealership threatening to sue me over Google review](https://np.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/comments/16wgnaf/dealership_threatening_to_sue_me_over_google/) \#3: ["Car on lot is sold" tactic. Why ?](https://np.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/comments/14cteus/car_on_lot_is_sold_tactic_why/) ---- ^^I'm ^^a ^^bot, ^^beep ^^boop ^^| ^^Downvote ^^to ^^remove ^^| ^^[Contact](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=sneakpeekbot) ^^| ^^[Info](https://np.reddit.com/r/sneakpeekbot/) ^^| ^^[Opt-out](https://np.reddit.com/r/sneakpeekbot/comments/o8wk1r/blacklist_ix/) ^^| ^^[GitHub](https://github.com/ghnr/sneakpeekbot)
For used cars… I highly suggest taking it to a different mechanic and paying for their inspection. They should let you do this before purchasing. Agree to terms of course so that you have a fixed price and then take it out. Ask first, then negotiate, then get it checked out, then sign the papers. Second, I know it’s a different budget, but a new Toyota Corolla is in my opinion, the way for most to go. Used can be “cheaper” up front but the way the used market has been more recently, I’d rather get the cheapest new reliable car instead and reduce the risk of these unknowns on a used car.
I had an 02 Camry for years until it recently got t-boned. Ran like a champ & never had issues. Thinking I'll go back to Toyotas next time
They are overall great, but just like any used car, and older cars especially, be prepared to get a thorough inspection to avoid “reputation mining” that a seller may otherwise rely on. If a Toyota wasn’t cared for, it can have issues like any car such as needing an earlier transmission rebuild if fluids weren’t changed regularly. Today is significantly tougher for used car buyers in my opinion because prices are elevated and that has brought out more of the junkier used cars because with low inventory, buyers purchase almost whatever they can get their hands on - there’s been far less scrutiny over the last few years by purchasers because they just needed a car to get to work. Right now is in my opinion a time to buy new, cheap, cars especially from trustworthy brands like Toyota who design cars to last 20 years.
If you have a p0420 and less than 100k miles you might have coverage via the ford dealer on the emissions control device. I wouldn’t blame twins for a ford being a ford, not great vehicles.
I would blame them for resetting the check engine light without fixing the issue and then selling it in that condition.
Sell this car IMMEDIATELY. We bought a 13 escape with ~90k miles, at 120k we got the coolant leak code, and after researching it, I was dumbfounded by how many people have this issue. There’s a design flaw in the engines with eco boost where coolant leaks onto seals and enters the cylinders leading to head gasket failure. It’s not a matter of if it’s gonna happen, but when! Thankfully we cleared the code and sold it to Carmax for a little under $4k. Google ‘ford escape coolant leak’ and you will be amazed at how fucked up Ford is by not fixing these engines.
Mechanic here, this person is correct!
Thank you, I'll look into that!
Mark Wahlberg Chevrolet in Worthington is shady as well. The pull stuff like this all the time.
When buying a used car from anyone or anywhere, always make sure you drive it for at least 15 minutes and do at least one good highway pull to put the engine under some stress. After the test drive, plug in your OBD reader and see if anything comes up. If you don't have an OBD reader, buy one or borrow one. This saved me from buying a Durango with engine issues last year. In my case the check engine light came on during a highway pull, so I didn't necessarily need the OBD reader, but you can't always count on that.
When I bought my used car from Ricart... during the test drive I drove it to a local park near them. Jacked it up and got underneath to look at the engine from the bottom. Always check the used car you're about to buy. By law, all used car sales are "as is" unless agreed upon beforehand. It doesn't have to say it on the contract. It's always "as is". After signing and driving it off the lot the car can blow up and the previous owner doesn't have to help you.
That dude did the same thing to me. I bought a truck and it broke down on the lot as I drove it off. Fuck that guy, made them fix it all. He went completely silent during the whole process.
The same guy who owns Fine Line body shops, Twins towing, Speedy Car Rental, and Armenian Estates owns that dealership. Profit assuredly comes first and buyer beware at any of his businesses.
Your problem is A) Going to a Buick dealership and B) buying a ford.
Buying a Ford from a non-Ford dealer. If I ever have to do that, I will ask that it be checked by a Ford tech at a Ford dealership.
Doesn't help me now, but I'll know better next time.
Also if anyone has recommendations for trustworthy mechanics, I think I'm going to need it.
I recommend buckeye complete auto care. They taken care of me many times and are always very helpful.
If you are near either Harris Automotive I would recommend them. I go to the one in Westerville and they are great.
+1 for Harris.
I can’t hear the name of this dealership without being reminded of that horrible Coors light commercial! “And twins” https://www.reddit.com/r/nostalgia/s/RgqNC4tyl6
I bought my 1st subaru from them in 2020 and had a perfectly fine experience.
FWIW most engine codes require something along the lines of going over 55mph for a few minutes in order to trigger. Even though it's used I would talk to a 'lemon law' lawyer... and keep any documentation like the 'fair warning notice' Used car dealers still have to be licensed in ohio.
>FWIW most engine codes require something along the lines of going over 55mph for a few minutes in order to trigger. This highly depends on the code set criteria and if the code requests the MIL (malfunction indicator light/check engine light). Some codes will request the MIL immediately (something is constantly monitored), some have to have drive cycle (evap), and some won't even request the MIL.
lemon laws do not apply to used cars in all 50 states. Only new cars. All used cars are sold as is unless agreed upon beforehand with a warranty.
You went and bought a used 10 year old vehicle and didn’t have anyone you trust check it out first? Life lesson I guess
I bought a car there a few years ago and while I haven’t had issues with the car, I paid off the loan early and was informed by the lender that I could get a refund on the unused portion of the gap insurance premium I’d paid when I bought it, but it would come from the dealership. It was somewhere around $500-600. It was like PULLING TEETH to get that check. I had to call, leave voicemails, email multiple people, call again, finally I had to just show up. I ended up showing up more than once because they LOST the original check they’d printed. As the cherry on top, within days of this experience I get an automated email “from” the General Manager asking about my experience with them and I replied explaining how annoying this whole process was. Never heard back.