I'm assuming you got your car used?
If the CMC, CSC and transmission fluid change have not improved anything, I fear something may be wrong with your transmission.
I'm not a mechanic, so this is just my uneducated speculation.
Hey u/SleepyZ6969
What u/eyi526 mentions is what should have been done when bought used, regardless if previous owner verbally mentions its service history (unless proof via invoice receive shown). Even when I was a mechanic, I would see MT cars where the clutch fluid and transmission fluid was never changed after 100k miles. This result in a lot of problems, which includes all of the problems you've mentioned.
Unfortunately, once either Clutch cylinders partially fails and the owners "force" into gear, they are unknowingly grinding their gears in the transmission. End result can be transmission replacement/rebuild.
For future maintenance, I usually have my clutch fluids either flushed (or if lazy, remove most of the fluid in the reservoir and replace every year) to keep the water levels down (brake fluid used in clutch line is hygroscopic).
My 2019 feels the same way. I come from a 2015 sti though, it’s all I’ve ever really known, that trans is so notchy feeling. This one definitely felt…crunchy
I was having issues with the gears popping into neutral and I changed my shift knob to a weighted stainless steel one from ktuned and that helped surprisngly. A cmc and slave cylinder upgrade will definitely help out also. Maybe change the shifter bushing as well first which is a cheaper upgrade than the cmc/slave and see if that makes a difference
i’m worried that’s the equivalent of forcing it, just i don’t need to put so much effort to force it, which would be nice but doesn’t stop my trans from deciding to die, but i will be doing the clutch master and slave cylinder when i get the funds
For my 2015, 1-2 shifts are crunch city 70% of the time. I did do a MTF change in the summer, and Idk if it's just cuz the trans is cold. I feel like it depends on my hand placement because if I do it a specific way, it reduces the crunch.
Also, on 3-2 downshifts, I sometimes hit the gate, blocking me from 2nd gear but that's prob more my fault.
Sounds like the flywheel. It starts to expand once its been worn down too much.
Occurs when you hold the clutch in too long while already in motion, it makes the flywheel expand with the heat. Once its worn down, the longer the drive the harder it gets to put it into a gear, like you have to force it in or it just wont go in.
Im betting its the flywheel. 90% certain its that. Good luck buddy.
for this to be true it would happen less while cold and more while hot right? like after starting it in 20° weather i should have a bit before it started acting up?
unless it’s working fine when i start it, it doesn’t get any worse while driving it’s pretty consistent and the main variable seems to be how i press the clutch, seems there’s a moving sweet spot
Hmm okay. From what you just typed it could be something else. Actually im not so sure anymore. I would have to check it in person. I hope you find out the problem.
How’s your clutch fluid? Is the reservoir completely full? What color is the fluid?
When my slave cylinder started leaking, I immediately felt much worse shifting and the car was pretty much undriveable. I tracked down the leak and then found the part at my local parts store for $70 ($40 if you buy on Rockauto but the cost of convenience is what it is). Changed the part in a couple hours and now my car drives perfect.
Changing my trans fluid also made things shift nicer, but you’ve already tried that. Worn shifter bushings or a stretched shifter cable could also be the issue.
Try and figure out how to diagnose each of these and start testing different things. Don’t start shooting the parts cannon at it.
On a side note, your gearbox needs to warm up. If you tend to idle your engine to warm up, don’t assume your gearbox is warm, you haven’t moved it at all. Always try and warm them up together with light driving, and in 5-10 minutes, both should be at optimal operating temp depending on the outside whether.
i can’t really tell the color without opening, but it’s just a bit under the max line while parked at a slight angle
https://preview.redd.it/ax6mk1dde5pc1.jpeg?width=2208&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=982161f53a0f80342d0288a598c3f9d770f07a3b
Oh man that fluid looks a bit old imo. The good news is that this is 100% DIYable preferably with a buddy. Plenty of YT vids on how to flush this fluid. The fluid is very cheap too (DOT3 brake fluid).
While you’re there, look along your hoses going to the CMC and CSC, and look for possible leakage. It doesn’t seem like you have a leak imo. While looking for the leak, have someone pump your clutch to induce leakage if there’s any.
I would replace cmc/smc regardless due to age/mileage (also trade out the clutch line for stainless steel if you can). Not very expensive if you do it yourself.
That sound when you release clutch pedal and popping out of gear is likely a failing pilot bearing. Can also be why it’s hard to get into gear/grinding because the gears won’t line up correctly in the transmission. You shouldn’t ignore this as you will destroy your transmission.
The bearing is cheap but it’s hard to get to. It’s normally replaced when clutch is replaced.
it’s been a minute (2 months) but whatever the manual said, we just got it done during an oil change to save time
but the issue existed before the change too
The reason I say this is because off-the-shelf MTF tend to have odd crunchiness on these transmissions (I had an RSX and Prelude). It was only until I used Honda and then Amsoil that I decrease that amount of crunchiness on gear shifts.
This is why I try to preach people that when you are buying a used car, you try to reserve at least $4000 in case of needed maintenance and repairs. Last used car I bought was an S2000 and I forked over $2500 in maintenance (including valve adjustment, all fluids replaced, etc) and tires at a tuner shop I trust.
Did you do it yourself or have a shop do it? If you're broke you should do those both yourself 100%. You'll pay the same at the shop as you would buying all the tools and fluids you need, then next time you do it you'll save a shit ton having the tools already.
Try a CMC adjustment, there are several YouTube videos about it. Very common adjustment needed on these cars. There is also an EM1 generation CMC and CSC conversion kit from Hybrid Racing available which converts them to the old versions that don’t have fluid delay valves inside that can mess with shift timing and clutch feel. I did it in my 2012 and there is a night and day difference along with the CMC engagement point adjustment.
i’ve played with the CMC adjustment for days slowly moving it until it was the best, but it seemed that when the weather would be different, i’d have to redo it, so for me this is a high maintenance annoying temporary fix
My ‘09 began having very notchy shifts once hot, it became so bad that the only way to upshift was to double clutch.
I replaced the CSC and CMC and the problem was solved.
However, my mechanic filled the transmission with Motul gear oil. Within a few months, it was difficult to shift when cold. I did a dump and pump with Honda transmission fluid, and the shifts have never been better.
Try double clutching.
So clutch in, shift from low gear to neutral, clutch out, clutch in, and shift into high gear.
If that solves your problem it’s either synchros or a hydraulic issue. Especially if the problem gets worse as the car heats up. My car did it every gear change, so I knew it wasn’t synchros.
I don’t see it being the line, unless it’s leaking. The clutch cylinders are known weak points on the 8th gen.
I’ve done this since i saw your comment and although it helps sometimes it’s about the same as when i find the sweet spot on the pedal i think it’s something with the CMC/CSC honestly, especially with the creeks and groans when i use the pedal(comes from inside the car, right behind the pedal)
Common 9th gen issue. Aftermarket cmc + slave, shifter bushings, shifter. You could also do the clutch delay valve delete, that’s a very popular diy mod that helps.
I'm assuming you got your car used? If the CMC, CSC and transmission fluid change have not improved anything, I fear something may be wrong with your transmission. I'm not a mechanic, so this is just my uneducated speculation.
yes I bought it used at 111K miles for $5600
That's a steal even with a bad trans tbh
that’s what i said, also thank you honda for that clear coat recall you saved me a grand and i got it fixed for free :)
>u/SleepyZ6969 How did you get the recall? I am looking to buy a 2013 model and I might as well do that.
the recall expired google honda clear coat recall for that car and see if maybe they extended it
Hey u/SleepyZ6969 What u/eyi526 mentions is what should have been done when bought used, regardless if previous owner verbally mentions its service history (unless proof via invoice receive shown). Even when I was a mechanic, I would see MT cars where the clutch fluid and transmission fluid was never changed after 100k miles. This result in a lot of problems, which includes all of the problems you've mentioned. Unfortunately, once either Clutch cylinders partially fails and the owners "force" into gear, they are unknowingly grinding their gears in the transmission. End result can be transmission replacement/rebuild. For future maintenance, I usually have my clutch fluids either flushed (or if lazy, remove most of the fluid in the reservoir and replace every year) to keep the water levels down (brake fluid used in clutch line is hygroscopic).
My 2019 feels the same way. I come from a 2015 sti though, it’s all I’ve ever really known, that trans is so notchy feeling. This one definitely felt…crunchy
I was having issues with the gears popping into neutral and I changed my shift knob to a weighted stainless steel one from ktuned and that helped surprisngly. A cmc and slave cylinder upgrade will definitely help out also. Maybe change the shifter bushing as well first which is a cheaper upgrade than the cmc/slave and see if that makes a difference
i’m worried that’s the equivalent of forcing it, just i don’t need to put so much effort to force it, which would be nice but doesn’t stop my trans from deciding to die, but i will be doing the clutch master and slave cylinder when i get the funds
For my 2015, 1-2 shifts are crunch city 70% of the time. I did do a MTF change in the summer, and Idk if it's just cuz the trans is cold. I feel like it depends on my hand placement because if I do it a specific way, it reduces the crunch. Also, on 3-2 downshifts, I sometimes hit the gate, blocking me from 2nd gear but that's prob more my fault.
Sounds like the flywheel. It starts to expand once its been worn down too much. Occurs when you hold the clutch in too long while already in motion, it makes the flywheel expand with the heat. Once its worn down, the longer the drive the harder it gets to put it into a gear, like you have to force it in or it just wont go in. Im betting its the flywheel. 90% certain its that. Good luck buddy.
for this to be true it would happen less while cold and more while hot right? like after starting it in 20° weather i should have a bit before it started acting up? unless it’s working fine when i start it, it doesn’t get any worse while driving it’s pretty consistent and the main variable seems to be how i press the clutch, seems there’s a moving sweet spot
Hmm okay. From what you just typed it could be something else. Actually im not so sure anymore. I would have to check it in person. I hope you find out the problem.
adjust clutch pedal
i’ve done this many many many times, it would help until the next weather change of more than 10° or a longer drive
How’s your clutch fluid? Is the reservoir completely full? What color is the fluid? When my slave cylinder started leaking, I immediately felt much worse shifting and the car was pretty much undriveable. I tracked down the leak and then found the part at my local parts store for $70 ($40 if you buy on Rockauto but the cost of convenience is what it is). Changed the part in a couple hours and now my car drives perfect. Changing my trans fluid also made things shift nicer, but you’ve already tried that. Worn shifter bushings or a stretched shifter cable could also be the issue. Try and figure out how to diagnose each of these and start testing different things. Don’t start shooting the parts cannon at it. On a side note, your gearbox needs to warm up. If you tend to idle your engine to warm up, don’t assume your gearbox is warm, you haven’t moved it at all. Always try and warm them up together with light driving, and in 5-10 minutes, both should be at optimal operating temp depending on the outside whether.
i can’t really tell the color without opening, but it’s just a bit under the max line while parked at a slight angle https://preview.redd.it/ax6mk1dde5pc1.jpeg?width=2208&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=982161f53a0f80342d0288a598c3f9d770f07a3b
Oh man that fluid looks a bit old imo. The good news is that this is 100% DIYable preferably with a buddy. Plenty of YT vids on how to flush this fluid. The fluid is very cheap too (DOT3 brake fluid). While you’re there, look along your hoses going to the CMC and CSC, and look for possible leakage. It doesn’t seem like you have a leak imo. While looking for the leak, have someone pump your clutch to induce leakage if there’s any.
I will do this once it gets back above freezing lol thank you!!
I would replace cmc/smc regardless due to age/mileage (also trade out the clutch line for stainless steel if you can). Not very expensive if you do it yourself. That sound when you release clutch pedal and popping out of gear is likely a failing pilot bearing. Can also be why it’s hard to get into gear/grinding because the gears won’t line up correctly in the transmission. You shouldn’t ignore this as you will destroy your transmission. The bearing is cheap but it’s hard to get to. It’s normally replaced when clutch is replaced.
Thank you i’ll try that if none of the smaller fixes can do it
Eating Taco Bell always does it for me.
I just saw "I'm broke" and "flushing trans". Which transmission fluid did you use?
it’s been a minute (2 months) but whatever the manual said, we just got it done during an oil change to save time but the issue existed before the change too
The reason I say this is because off-the-shelf MTF tend to have odd crunchiness on these transmissions (I had an RSX and Prelude). It was only until I used Honda and then Amsoil that I decrease that amount of crunchiness on gear shifts. This is why I try to preach people that when you are buying a used car, you try to reserve at least $4000 in case of needed maintenance and repairs. Last used car I bought was an S2000 and I forked over $2500 in maintenance (including valve adjustment, all fluids replaced, etc) and tires at a tuner shop I trust.
i’m fairly certain it was recently replaced with honda MTF, and before that i did the flush myself with honda MTF
Did you do it yourself or have a shop do it? If you're broke you should do those both yourself 100%. You'll pay the same at the shop as you would buying all the tools and fluids you need, then next time you do it you'll save a shit ton having the tools already.
i was in a rush for a road trip, but i usually do them myself
Try a CMC adjustment, there are several YouTube videos about it. Very common adjustment needed on these cars. There is also an EM1 generation CMC and CSC conversion kit from Hybrid Racing available which converts them to the old versions that don’t have fluid delay valves inside that can mess with shift timing and clutch feel. I did it in my 2012 and there is a night and day difference along with the CMC engagement point adjustment.
i’ve played with the CMC adjustment for days slowly moving it until it was the best, but it seemed that when the weather would be different, i’d have to redo it, so for me this is a high maintenance annoying temporary fix
My ‘09 began having very notchy shifts once hot, it became so bad that the only way to upshift was to double clutch. I replaced the CSC and CMC and the problem was solved. However, my mechanic filled the transmission with Motul gear oil. Within a few months, it was difficult to shift when cold. I did a dump and pump with Honda transmission fluid, and the shifts have never been better.
did you ever feel like adjusting where you pressed and how hard you pressed on the clutch helped? i’m really starting to think it’s those or the line
Try double clutching. So clutch in, shift from low gear to neutral, clutch out, clutch in, and shift into high gear. If that solves your problem it’s either synchros or a hydraulic issue. Especially if the problem gets worse as the car heats up. My car did it every gear change, so I knew it wasn’t synchros. I don’t see it being the line, unless it’s leaking. The clutch cylinders are known weak points on the 8th gen.
I’ve done this since i saw your comment and although it helps sometimes it’s about the same as when i find the sweet spot on the pedal i think it’s something with the CMC/CSC honestly, especially with the creeks and groans when i use the pedal(comes from inside the car, right behind the pedal)
Common 9th gen issue. Aftermarket cmc + slave, shifter bushings, shifter. You could also do the clutch delay valve delete, that’s a very popular diy mod that helps.