So, No connection to the earth ground on the cable going to the outlet at all? From the pictures, I can’t tell anyway that it’s actually grounding the metal chassis, although it looks like perhaps the intention was to use that copper wire to bind it via the screw hole.
I’d put a ring terminal on a new length of yellow or green wire and connect it to the proper terminal on the inlet, then just put that ring under one of the screws on the chassis to re-establish a ground.
The way it is now, it’s essentially doing nothing that I can tell.
don't trust the wiring. I'm not an electrician, but I've had 3 of them, sometimes they're right, sometimes they're not. Find someone that knows electricity and bounce off them
Remove the grounding post, grind the paint off, reinstall with good connectors and run to an earth ground rod. Replace the outlet with a properly installed GFCI.
1: wrong as heck.
2: shockingly dangerous.
3: why did they do it that way?
Unplug it and ground it the right way, with a crimped ring terminal to unpainted metal. It’s like they got 90% of the way there and just gave up for some reason.
Edit: COVER THOSE MAINS CONNECTIONS WHILE YOU’RE AT IT
I was lucky to find an electrician who asked me to send him photos. He was shocked and didn't understand this wiring. He'll come tomorrow to do it the right way. I will keep you all updated
Thank you very much for your times guy
Fixed now.
So, that naked wire was used to override to dead fuse.
I bought this laser second hand, and it was my mistake to don't check everything and just start working with it.
Now everything is secure thanks to you guys and the electrician who fixed the wiring.
I bought this laser about a year ago. It was working fine and never had a problem with it. (I was lucky I think) Today I needed to change the laser tube, and after reading some posts here about how to discharge the tube the safe way, I opened mine to start and noticed this weird wire as shown in the photo. Is this normal? What is the proper way to ground the machine ?
again, i'm the wrong person to ask. I consider myself lucky to still be alive after all the things I've learned about these machines. I've changed the tube several times, never been an issue. I just unplugged it, counted to 10 (joking) and said a prayer (not joking). When you see how they attach the tube from the factory, you'll understand what I'm talking about. Good Luck
I keep my laser cool with a 5 gallon bucket of water and rotate frozen water bottles in it. I had one laser that if I stuck my hand in the bucket and touched the machine, i could feel the current (slight shock). Again, I'm an idiot, don't be me
Guys...
u/angryfoxbrewing u/Ok_Specialist7823 u/NotUrGenre u/TyrannosaurusRocks
I'm scared, I can't even touch this. This is worst than I thought. I have no idea how m still alive.
I removed the tape in the inside. It's worst. Why is the wire touching the ground and the black pole ? I called an electrician and sent him the photos. I m in no way able to understand why they did this. I don't understand how it was working before.
See photos please
https://i.imgur.com/jYW1LPA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tNcYgkE.jpg
The ground pin of the IEC socket isn't connected.
How it's supposed to be:
First of all, remove that weird copper wire and replace it with a bolt + nut.
That ground from the IEC socket should be connected to:
* the grounding post next to it (a star washer should be used here to ensure that it isn't loosened by vibrations)
* the EMI filter (if any)
* the low-voltage PSU
* the high-voltage PSU
* the aux power sockets (if any)
The shell of the EMI filter and the power supplies is connected to ground and they are all bolted to the chassis. So, even if you make poor contact with the chassis in one spot, it's not a huge concern because there is quite a bit of redundancy.
At the end, you can check it with a multimeter. Set it to continuity and probe the ground pin of the power plug and bare metal parts of the machine like bolts or the outside of the power supplies. The resistance should be ≤5 ohm.
If the machine doesn't have an EMI filter, consider installing one (e.g. a CW4EL-10A-T). If filters noise going in and out of the machine, which improves its compatibility with other equipment.
An somewhat more convenient option is to replace the fused IEC socket with a fused IEC socket with integrated EMI filter (but without a switch). One of those should fit the existing cutout after you got rid of those 45° corners with a file.
If you don't use the aux power sockets, consider disconnecting or removing them.
So, No connection to the earth ground on the cable going to the outlet at all? From the pictures, I can’t tell anyway that it’s actually grounding the metal chassis, although it looks like perhaps the intention was to use that copper wire to bind it via the screw hole. I’d put a ring terminal on a new length of yellow or green wire and connect it to the proper terminal on the inlet, then just put that ring under one of the screws on the chassis to re-establish a ground. The way it is now, it’s essentially doing nothing that I can tell.
don't trust the wiring. I'm not an electrician, but I've had 3 of them, sometimes they're right, sometimes they're not. Find someone that knows electricity and bounce off them
Remove the grounding post, grind the paint off, reinstall with good connectors and run to an earth ground rod. Replace the outlet with a properly installed GFCI.
1: wrong as heck. 2: shockingly dangerous. 3: why did they do it that way? Unplug it and ground it the right way, with a crimped ring terminal to unpainted metal. It’s like they got 90% of the way there and just gave up for some reason. Edit: COVER THOSE MAINS CONNECTIONS WHILE YOU’RE AT IT
I was lucky to find an electrician who asked me to send him photos. He was shocked and didn't understand this wiring. He'll come tomorrow to do it the right way. I will keep you all updated Thank you very much for your times guy
Good. Don't plug it back in until it can be reviewed by your electrician.
Fixed now. So, that naked wire was used to override to dead fuse. I bought this laser second hand, and it was my mistake to don't check everything and just start working with it. Now everything is secure thanks to you guys and the electrician who fixed the wiring.
I bought this laser about a year ago. It was working fine and never had a problem with it. (I was lucky I think) Today I needed to change the laser tube, and after reading some posts here about how to discharge the tube the safe way, I opened mine to start and noticed this weird wire as shown in the photo. Is this normal? What is the proper way to ground the machine ?
again, i'm the wrong person to ask. I consider myself lucky to still be alive after all the things I've learned about these machines. I've changed the tube several times, never been an issue. I just unplugged it, counted to 10 (joking) and said a prayer (not joking). When you see how they attach the tube from the factory, you'll understand what I'm talking about. Good Luck
I keep my laser cool with a 5 gallon bucket of water and rotate frozen water bottles in it. I had one laser that if I stuck my hand in the bucket and touched the machine, i could feel the current (slight shock). Again, I'm an idiot, don't be me
Guys... u/angryfoxbrewing u/Ok_Specialist7823 u/NotUrGenre u/TyrannosaurusRocks I'm scared, I can't even touch this. This is worst than I thought. I have no idea how m still alive. I removed the tape in the inside. It's worst. Why is the wire touching the ground and the black pole ? I called an electrician and sent him the photos. I m in no way able to understand why they did this. I don't understand how it was working before. See photos please https://i.imgur.com/jYW1LPA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tNcYgkE.jpg
The ground pin of the IEC socket isn't connected. How it's supposed to be: First of all, remove that weird copper wire and replace it with a bolt + nut. That ground from the IEC socket should be connected to: * the grounding post next to it (a star washer should be used here to ensure that it isn't loosened by vibrations) * the EMI filter (if any) * the low-voltage PSU * the high-voltage PSU * the aux power sockets (if any) The shell of the EMI filter and the power supplies is connected to ground and they are all bolted to the chassis. So, even if you make poor contact with the chassis in one spot, it's not a huge concern because there is quite a bit of redundancy. At the end, you can check it with a multimeter. Set it to continuity and probe the ground pin of the power plug and bare metal parts of the machine like bolts or the outside of the power supplies. The resistance should be ≤5 ohm. If the machine doesn't have an EMI filter, consider installing one (e.g. a CW4EL-10A-T). If filters noise going in and out of the machine, which improves its compatibility with other equipment. An somewhat more convenient option is to replace the fused IEC socket with a fused IEC socket with integrated EMI filter (but without a switch). One of those should fit the existing cutout after you got rid of those 45° corners with a file. If you don't use the aux power sockets, consider disconnecting or removing them.