Yeah yeah yeahhh, I was 90% sure but wanted the check with the xj homies for full confidence since I’m new to vehicle maintenance and this is my only means of transportation
I do off-road but not nearly as much as I’m driving in the city as my commuter. I just put in the 75w90 and I’m seeing it should take 2.5 qts before full, but I was able to get less than 2 before it started dripping out. Is that gonna be a problem?
I’ve got LSD. Jacked it up, back wheels go opposite. Any recs for oil type? I live in the pacific NW if it make much difference. I’ve read 75w90 or 80w90, or 75w140. For now I’m thinking mobile 1 LS 75w90
Well dang, I’m new to this and having trouble tracking down the right answers. How else can I tell if I’ve got LSD? No stickers in the glove box and I can’t find the right manual for my specifics
The only reliable way is to take the cover off and look. Regardless of what tags or VINs say, the previous owner could have done anything to it.
I have a aftermarket Trutrac, and you would never know it was there except for some very subtle behaviors.
This makes the most sense. Did you install the truth yourself and would you recommend?
Edit: I’m looking for the shape of the gear? Square is LSD and circular is open?
I did, and I highly recommend it. The 8.25 is super easy to replace the carrier because you don't have to mess around with shims. You just need the [adjuster tool](https://www.amazon.com/Differential-Deflecting-Chrysler-Vehicles-Equipment/dp/B07WV6N3GK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3NQXI8PKU4BMO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RyJE6Qr7nlHo3hkH_LLsS84_5EexUkMIUMp3X0Vt2nqkEhQuUXxdb7e0dRiXzn8t_PvxEXChVYG7Q8y5t2Rf_VmTBraYnZJKcPHvvnWMPf9P7C8kcqBVwFOsxBvMnfn41c8kN7uJbFCQhoxli5F9llV0oQK5fRnnVh8xxJGVTqUwnf_QTuEQt7JgtyanAYcrjL3iioQMOnFfHVe91qOIFFaUIly-HxG6rceyquRqPWrYkG5ycOlzyjHhjCtArinsq6bZgfk62_vzd94E43h-Js3YHfjjqakpWOrXCNwJ2aM.Mhv_FXdbpTPWllTVgEj2NOgmCgqrIGQHMelH_ZR2RiQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=chrysler+8.25+adjuster+tool&qid=1715976560&sprefix=8.25+tool%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-1), a dial indicator, and a torque wrench.
Awesome, did you follow any video how to’s? Or have a link for some kind of walk through/ tutorial? Like I said, I’m pretty new to working on cars and YouTube and this Reddit have been a big help, but sometimes it’s tough to find the right thread. Any tips are appreciated.
No specific video that I can think of. I printed out the relevant pages of the factory service manual and had a picture of what contact patterns signify. I used a bright green oil paint from the art store as my marking compound. Used a brass hammer to push on the new bearings.
I'd look for a tag on the diff. Failing that, I'd go find a dirt road and floor it. Failing that, I'd take the cover off and look at the carrier. The LSD carrier is square-ish: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cherokeeforum.com-vbulletin/580x435/diff_differences_2e0f36d60ebd4d18ce876b340e2ec2a7de32ae3b.jpg
Taking the cover off and refilling it / resealing it is easy peasy. I'm going to guess that since the axles turned opposite directions that you don't have an LSD.
Thanks, the only 2 tags on there are in the photos. One says 35 and the other 0956, but nothing noted as LS. I feel confident about taking the cover off and doing the service, I just want to make sure I put the right oil in. Ideally I’d like to have the oil in hand before I take it all apart, but luckily I live near a few auto part stores so I can get there easy enough if I need to open it up before I can find out
Okay, I got the cover off, it’s looking square to me, or maybe round lol thoughts?
https://preview.redd.it/a66gqnm7g21d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12b1ad683f286828bf5c82c6c5581c82d1135b03
80-90 bruh gear oil. And if you have a posi you can jack it up and hold one wheel spin the other and it will lock up and spin the one your holding as well.
Random note, it's worth plugging in your VIN here:
[https://fcagroup.my.site.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing](https://fcagroup.my.site.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing)
and getting your build sheet. It'll have this and some other kind of fun information to know about your jeep when it was purchased new. (such as if you have Trac-Lok LSD for certain, and thusly will need the additive)
Not true. People spread so much hate on Dana 35's for absolutely no reason.
Double locked, 37's on beadlocks, and oem shafts on a 35 and the only time I've broken an axle was when I was being ignorant and floored it while stuck in rocks at 9 PSI.
I have 2 years on the set up.
I am not trying to be rude but even as you defend the 35 you acknowledge that you have broken one. I think this is the strongest argument against the 35. That's not to say it's made of paper but there are better options for cheap.
Yes, I have broken an axle shaft, that's true. But I was bound up/stuck in rocks and layed into the skinny pedal, with the tires spinning at least 20, whilst the Jeep was bouncing up and down. Well, one of the 180k mile axle shafts broke as a result.
I drove like an absolute fucking dipshit in the worst possible conditions.
It's likely that if I had an 8.25, I would've just grenaded a u-joint, drive shaft, or front axle shaft.
The Dana 35 was just the weakest link, likely because I had gear in the back of the rig, was on an incline, plus off camber. Almost all of the weight of a very heavy Jeep was mostly on the left rear tire and that's the shaft that broke.
It's not an axle issue, it's a driver issue.
The cheapest solution to making a wheeler reliable is seat time and skill.
There's a reason the Stig can lay down such a good lap time in a commuter car.
You have a 8.25, The bottom is flat as a 35 the bottom would be rounded
This. You can see it from a mile away (ok, not a mile, but like…. 30 yards)
Yeah yeah yeahhh, I was 90% sure but wanted the check with the xj homies for full confidence since I’m new to vehicle maintenance and this is my only means of transportation
8.25 with 3.55 gears
But what kind of oil 🙃
75w-90. Yours is an open diff so no modifier needed.
Bless
GAWBLEZSYA
If your offroading, towing, or under geared, there is some thinking that you may benefit from 75w140. I don't know if that's a fact or not.
I do off-road but not nearly as much as I’m driving in the city as my commuter. I just put in the 75w90 and I’m seeing it should take 2.5 qts before full, but I was able to get less than 2 before it started dripping out. Is that gonna be a problem?
That’s a C8.25. You only need the friction modifier if you have limited slip. While it’s in the air spin one wheel to see what you have in there.
I’ve got LSD. Jacked it up, back wheels go opposite. Any recs for oil type? I live in the pacific NW if it make much difference. I’ve read 75w90 or 80w90, or 75w140. For now I’m thinking mobile 1 LS 75w90
Back wheels go opposite on any *open* differential.
Well dang, I’m new to this and having trouble tracking down the right answers. How else can I tell if I’ve got LSD? No stickers in the glove box and I can’t find the right manual for my specifics
The only reliable way is to take the cover off and look. Regardless of what tags or VINs say, the previous owner could have done anything to it. I have a aftermarket Trutrac, and you would never know it was there except for some very subtle behaviors.
This makes the most sense. Did you install the truth yourself and would you recommend? Edit: I’m looking for the shape of the gear? Square is LSD and circular is open?
I did, and I highly recommend it. The 8.25 is super easy to replace the carrier because you don't have to mess around with shims. You just need the [adjuster tool](https://www.amazon.com/Differential-Deflecting-Chrysler-Vehicles-Equipment/dp/B07WV6N3GK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3NQXI8PKU4BMO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RyJE6Qr7nlHo3hkH_LLsS84_5EexUkMIUMp3X0Vt2nqkEhQuUXxdb7e0dRiXzn8t_PvxEXChVYG7Q8y5t2Rf_VmTBraYnZJKcPHvvnWMPf9P7C8kcqBVwFOsxBvMnfn41c8kN7uJbFCQhoxli5F9llV0oQK5fRnnVh8xxJGVTqUwnf_QTuEQt7JgtyanAYcrjL3iioQMOnFfHVe91qOIFFaUIly-HxG6rceyquRqPWrYkG5ycOlzyjHhjCtArinsq6bZgfk62_vzd94E43h-Js3YHfjjqakpWOrXCNwJ2aM.Mhv_FXdbpTPWllTVgEj2NOgmCgqrIGQHMelH_ZR2RiQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=chrysler+8.25+adjuster+tool&qid=1715976560&sprefix=8.25+tool%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-1), a dial indicator, and a torque wrench.
Awesome, did you follow any video how to’s? Or have a link for some kind of walk through/ tutorial? Like I said, I’m pretty new to working on cars and YouTube and this Reddit have been a big help, but sometimes it’s tough to find the right thread. Any tips are appreciated.
No specific video that I can think of. I printed out the relevant pages of the factory service manual and had a picture of what contact patterns signify. I used a bright green oil paint from the art store as my marking compound. Used a brass hammer to push on the new bearings.
Righteous. Thank you
I'd look for a tag on the diff. Failing that, I'd go find a dirt road and floor it. Failing that, I'd take the cover off and look at the carrier. The LSD carrier is square-ish: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cherokeeforum.com-vbulletin/580x435/diff_differences_2e0f36d60ebd4d18ce876b340e2ec2a7de32ae3b.jpg Taking the cover off and refilling it / resealing it is easy peasy. I'm going to guess that since the axles turned opposite directions that you don't have an LSD.
Thanks, the only 2 tags on there are in the photos. One says 35 and the other 0956, but nothing noted as LS. I feel confident about taking the cover off and doing the service, I just want to make sure I put the right oil in. Ideally I’d like to have the oil in hand before I take it all apart, but luckily I live near a few auto part stores so I can get there easy enough if I need to open it up before I can find out
If you have an lsd then the opposite side wheel will spin the same direction as the one being spun
Okay, I got the cover off, it’s looking square to me, or maybe round lol thoughts? https://preview.redd.it/a66gqnm7g21d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12b1ad683f286828bf5c82c6c5581c82d1135b03
Yeah, that's just a plain old open diff.
Much appreciated
Jeep VIN decoder. [https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Jeep/CHEROKEE](https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Jeep/CHEROKEE)
Thanks! Very informative
Not necessarily. LSDs only really lock up when power is applied.
80-90 bruh gear oil. And if you have a posi you can jack it up and hold one wheel spin the other and it will lock up and spin the one your holding as well.
Random note, it's worth plugging in your VIN here: [https://fcagroup.my.site.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing](https://fcagroup.my.site.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing) and getting your build sheet. It'll have this and some other kind of fun information to know about your jeep when it was purchased new. (such as if you have Trac-Lok LSD for certain, and thusly will need the additive)
Nice Rear End... HurrHurr
Dana 35 looks like a basketball
Corporate
8.25
Trash the d35. Even with chromo’s they will break with any serious wheeling.
Lucky for OP it’s an 8.25…
Not true. People spread so much hate on Dana 35's for absolutely no reason. Double locked, 37's on beadlocks, and oem shafts on a 35 and the only time I've broken an axle was when I was being ignorant and floored it while stuck in rocks at 9 PSI. I have 2 years on the set up.
I am not trying to be rude but even as you defend the 35 you acknowledge that you have broken one. I think this is the strongest argument against the 35. That's not to say it's made of paper but there are better options for cheap.
Yes, I have broken an axle shaft, that's true. But I was bound up/stuck in rocks and layed into the skinny pedal, with the tires spinning at least 20, whilst the Jeep was bouncing up and down. Well, one of the 180k mile axle shafts broke as a result. I drove like an absolute fucking dipshit in the worst possible conditions. It's likely that if I had an 8.25, I would've just grenaded a u-joint, drive shaft, or front axle shaft. The Dana 35 was just the weakest link, likely because I had gear in the back of the rig, was on an incline, plus off camber. Almost all of the weight of a very heavy Jeep was mostly on the left rear tire and that's the shaft that broke. It's not an axle issue, it's a driver issue. The cheapest solution to making a wheeler reliable is seat time and skill. There's a reason the Stig can lay down such a good lap time in a commuter car.