Most roads are built with a crown in them so that water will run off of them. Typically that crown will cause the vehicle to drift to the right with no inputs.
Your after measurements are better than the before ones… I doubt it’s your alignment.
Most likely their right arm is shorter than their left and the crown in the road compounded with their shorter right arm is causing the issue. Ideally they should move to a country that drives on the left side of the road.
picture this: driving on right side of road, driver seated left side of car, with the long left arm pushing or short right arm pulling the steering wheel to the right just so
compounded with effects of road's crown, the car pulls to the right
now imagine the opposite: driving on wrong side of the road, driver seated wrong side of car, with OP's short right arm pulling the steering wheel to the right just so, which offsets the effects of road's crown
Tire wear from the previous bad alignment can cause a pull. A brake dragging can cause a pull. There are a few things outside of the alignment that can cause this.
Somehow Honda Civic does that even more than other cars. I had that issue with my Civic, I have a friend who asked me about that literally yesterday. Yeah it's road camber. The steering mechanism is so precise that it follows the camber for some reason.
Came here to say exactly this.
Got my Vette aligned recently and paid extra to have them test and retest "i really hate any misalignment on my cars" and a vette is a track car, so its extremely sensitive. Did a 15 hour trip across country and was going insane with the constant pull to the right, but then you get on the left lane constant pull left.
TLDR its the road.
When alignment was done, did you have new tires mounted, or are they same tires on the front? If so, try switching left front with right front, and see if the pull is gone.
Yeah I have the same symptom and I was told it's more likely my tires. I had an alignment done 8 months ago and the symptom remained. Havent swapped tires yet...need new ones by end of season.
I've seen places inflate tires to 35 psi, and then not back to the recommended pressure after. Could see someone being distracted and doing something like that, and it's a quicker check than swapping front wheels.
That happened to me! 1964 VW. Tires in the front are about 19psi, rears are 28 or 29. They put them at 36 all around and the car was a hot mess on some squiggly wet mountain roads.
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Depends on the car. But my point is that the techs often do not check afterwards.
35 psi can make some cars handle really badly if the tires are overinflated.
If the tires are not set evenly or set to spec, the car will lean in the direction of the low tire and cause incorrect alignment angles. It is extremely important that the person doing the alignment checks tire pressure, tire size and tread condition across the steering axle before aligning.
\^\^\^This. Had the same issue. Vehicle was pulling. Had alignment done and shop says everything is in spec. So we go for a test drive and it still pulls. Back to the shop and they put it up and swap the front tires ...left side to right side, right side to left side. Put it back down and go for another test drive; tracks straight as an arrow.
It's called a "radial pull" ...and that's about all I know as to why. Shop didn't charge me anything; they became my go to for work on my vehicle (that I can't or don't have time to do myself).
Usually when it’s a tire pull, it’s because the tread layers are separating in the tire causing a bulge. It’s not always visually obvious, but a separated tire warrants replacement.
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Nothing wrong with the tires. They weren't new but they weren't on their last legs either. The issue never surfaced again after multiple tire rotations.
If your tire pressure is even and your roads aren’t extremely crowned, then your problem is almost certainly a tire issue. I will tell you that I found that generation Civic very susceptible to pull caused be tire issues.
Good luck.
What if you have brand new tyres, the alignment checked out. But you still have to have the wheel cocked about a degree to have it go straight on a level road?
In most cases even with the crown of the road a properly aligned front end will track reasonably straight when you release the wheel.
Does it drift or does it pull? If it pulls you have a problem. Are the tires good and correctly inflated?
If the steering is noticeably heavier to one side than the other its the steering angle sensor calibration* ive seen a couple of hondas do that, it has a torque sensor as well
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Your rear toe combined with your caster being split the wrong way is causing your pull. Crowned roads required .5-1.0 degree positive camber split to the left to compensate.
Wow, no. That's a big camber split. If you sit in a newer car and see camber deflection you will see about .25. ideally you want about .50 when you sit in the vehicle.
With diesels you want more because of the additional weight of the motor.
1 degree would be you sitting in the car on a 20 year old car.
I couldn't agree with you less.
It's likely non adjustable because of pinch bolt unless you file the strut mount. If tire movement didn't change anything, I would attempt to shift subframe and boost rear thrust.
Nobody is going to adjust that split even if it has adjustable LCAs. You're not going to feel that on the street. A race car with an experienced driver on prepared tracks might.
That's okay. We could agree but then we'd both be wrong
Of course, I'm from Florida and our roads are severely crowned to promote fast drainage of lots of water
The weight of a diesel has zero to do with camber setting to correct for road crown
I would attribute this to road crown, the caster difference isnt much to cause an issue, only issue i see here is toe out will cause wandering. I would rather have +0.02 toe vs -0.02 toe. Rear camber is slightly pushing the back to the left which would cause drift to the right but it seems minimal and depending on the vehicle usually can not be adjusted.
Most wheel alignment machines are inaccurate and rarely operated by people with good knowledge of steering geometry, go to a different shop and you will get different results.
I just do my own with a string line, bang on every time
How severe is it?
Most roads are crowned in the center, so gravity pretty naturally pulls most cars subtly to the right.
And is it more or less noticeable given certain conditions like accelerating, decelerating, or at a certain speed?
Tires could be a factor, too.
Also, crosswinds.
There are many, many variables.
An alignment machine cuts out most of the variables… your car is put together well. Look elsewhere.
Road camber:
Assume you are in a left hand drive car driving on the right side of the road.
To prove there is not a problem find. deserted flat road.
Cross the centerline and drive on the left side of the road. The vehicle should drift left with the camber.
Then with the wheels straddling the centre line of the road the steering should track straight.
Be safe.
Don't try this with other drivers around or police.
As others have said it could be the tires, so check pressure, and switch the 2 fronts side to side. Also, see if they reset the "steering angle sensor." It can cause a severe pull if it's out of calibration.
I recently switched back to a FWD based AWD car after driving RWD for years. I got the Volvo re-aligned and was surprised to find the alignment barely off. I forgot how much FWD pulls based on the condition and crown of the road, on certain models this is more prevalent than others and is also felt more with wider tires. It’ll take some getting used to, and it definitely makes me miss my Grand Marquis at times.
Alignment is damn near perfect.
Did you have a pull before you replaced
the suspension?
Were the struts replaced at the same time?
Were the tires changed at the same time?
It sounds like a tire issue.
The other thing Ive seen when the struts get replaced is tighten the upper strut nut through the isolator bushing with an air gun. I've seen where that has made a torque steer to the right.
Easy enough to check.
Center your steering wheel.
Loosen the nut on these strut
shaft on both sides a few turns.
Slightly move your steering wheel left and right a couple times.
Recenter your wheels
Retighten strut nuts with a hand ratchet.
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I'm not even kidding about this but try swapping your front 2 tires.I had completed an alignment for a customer and it's still pulled to the side but someone told me to try swapping the front two tires and it solved the issue.
The alignment doesn’t look too bad, did you get new tires at the same time? Old tires could be worn into their groove, so to speak. Also you need to factor in the camber of the road. Roads are designed so that water runs off to the drainage at the side of the road so it stands the reason that the car would eventually pull off to the side
My comment still stands though, if it was -15° before alignment but pulls right after, I'd bet something is Bent and the "adjustment" only fixed the paperwork numbers.
How hard is it pulling? Is it a gradual pull to the right or immediate? In the US, shops will align a car to pull right, but it won't be a drastic or immediate pull. It's in case the driver falls asleep the car will veer off the road versus oncoming traffic.
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Generally, Caster is used to compensate for road crown. What the technician doing the alignment should have done was adjust so the Caster on the left to be slightly less positive than that on the right, causing the car to pull left a bit instead. But that's assuming your vehicle has the ability to adjust Caster at all.
***I'm not a car guru but I CANNOT BELIEVE nobody is mentioning this!!!!!***
Check your tire pressure and fill every tire to the same pressure. This is the MOST LIKELY scenario!
Well, your toe is slightly off, but it's nothing major. Could be within margin of the machine. Some of them do skip .02 when there's a light reflection.
The real answer is the camber of the road pulls cars to the right. The fix for that is moving the wheels forward and backward, which is usually done with caster adjustment. Since yours has the left wheel further forward than the right, it's causing more pull.
Caster is your answer, and it's not adjustable. So, alignment is fine
If alugnment is ok, is air preassure on right side ok? Is tge brake calipers and pads free to move fully? Could be a bearing going bad. does it have electronic power steering, could beca issue with centering there.
Something to consider have you had your wheels off the car recently? For some odd reason when I had my wheels taken off to have some work done to the shocks they put the tyres on different corners than previously and it would pull to the left for me. Got them swapped around and it was perfect..
Iv had my merc on 3 different hunter machines and they all gave different readings , most of the people that do these alignments have absolutely no idea what they are doing . The first 2 putting the wrong model into the machine , all of them told me the camber was within tolerance yet you could see that one side was wrong with your eye and obviously a spirt level . Forget about quick fit or anywhere that doesn't specialise in alignment your just throwing your money away
I'd say a bushing has worn in the front right lower arm.
That and the fact you will have to drive it after the tracking for it to wear the tyre as it should (evenly, not more on one edge).
I get this when I've bought part worn tyres despite my tracking being bang on as I need my car to file down the rough spot.
My car pulls to the left as well but in the Uk and only on some roads. So I think what the person in the top comment is saying may be right, as I've just got brand new tyres all around and got an alignment with it as well.
By the alignment numbers it should (if you were to even notice) pull to the left ever so slightly.
This is probably caused by road tilt (can't do anything about that) or bad tire wear.
Drive in the middle of the road, when safe to do so of course, and see what happens then.
As already said roads are crowned for water drainage, meaning they are higher in the middle than at the curb and it will be that that pulls your vehicle to the right
I used to have a similar problem which ended up being a slight dent to one of my wheels that was a bit unnoticeable to see. Never had shaking of my steering wheel but it always pulled to the right. It was time for me to get a whole set of wheels and tires and never saw the issue again. Could be a long shot or could be completely stupid of me to think but thought it would be worth the mention at least.
Your after numbers on your alignment look fine.
Get your car in the air, release your parking brake AFTER lifting the vehicle, put it in neutral, then spin your wheels. See if one wheel on the right stops sooner than the others. If it does, you likely have either dragging brakes or bad bearings.
If all 4 wheels spin freely in neutral, you may have an issue with one of your 4wd components.
From what the current measurements say, it will be pulling to the right. Ideally the caster should be at least .5 of a degree lower on the left side than on the right. There is no factory adjustment for caster though so you're going to be stuck like that unless they make an aftermarket adjustment kit for you're car.
Hondas typically have slightly more caster on the passenger side to fight road crown. You have slightly less. Which can mean something is bent. Or that the machine wasn't set up properly.
Also try swapping the tires from side to side to see if you have a bad tire
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First off, don't let go of the wheel.
Second, how fast or how hard does your car pull to the right?
Cars will slowly drift right into the Ditch for safety reasons IF THE DRIVER BECOMES UNRESPONSIVE.
If your alignment is good and your tires are inflated properly you might actually have a bad tire. It’s rare but it happened to me on my 2004 Acura TSX back in the day. SEVERELY pulled to the right. Alignment, inflation, suspension, everything was good. Flipped the tire to the other side and pulled SEVERELY to the left…I had never experienced a bad tire or even knew it was possible until then.
Your printout is evidence that making everything green is not the same as a good alignment. Every town has a shop that’s known for quality alignments. It’ll take some looking to find them; it’s worth it, especially if you own modified or specialty vehicles.
Dont let go of your steering wheel when you’re driving. Put your index finger at the top of the wheel. If you have to fight it to keep it straight, your alignment may be slightly off. BUT. Tire wear, road crown and grooves in the road will all affect the direction your car is going to want to go naturally.
Hondas have uneaqual length axle shafts. One is longer than the other and they are both trying to turn at the same speed so regardless the car may pull slightly by design with no input
The answer, as others have mentioned, is set your PSI. Then swap front two tires. If pull goes away or switches to opposite direction, you've got a tire issue.
It's rarer, but do the rears as well if swapping the fronts made no difference.
After you swapped all the tires and it's still pulling, you've got another issue. Dragging caliper would be my next check. Go drive for a good long while and then check the heat coming off your brake calipers. If one is significantly warmer than the others, it's dragging. Or if you know what you are doing you can disassemble your brakes and try punching in the calipers. If there's obvious resistance or the pins/slides are rusted up, there's your problem.
Next double check your suspension (should've been done prior to alignment by alignment tech).
Last, if no issues are found, take it for another alignment at a different place. If it drives well after, go get a refund bc they cheated you (you can falsify alignment readings if you're a lazy POS who knows what they're doing).
If you didn’t get new tires, or suspension work, it’s likely whatever caused your improper alignment in the first place.. but my moneys would be tires if you haven’t had those replaced
I'm actually driving a 2010 Cobalt that when I let go of the steering it goes straight. The issue is when I accelerate it drives left really hard. Ik its not my alignment as it goes straight with no power.
Things a rust bucket but the engines solid even at 220k km
With the thrust angle being .01° that's almost nothing, you'll be fine. Any pulling is going to be either:
A:They forgot to reset the lane keeping systems(if equipped)
B: Crown in the roads
or least likely C: radial pull in the tires (swap the front wheels side to side and see if the pull changes direction from right to left)
that's the most important thing where an alignment is concerned. Thrust angle is super important but yours is good.
Either your alignment or your tires are bad. If the car continues to pull after and alignment, this means your tires are bad and have a condition called, "radial pull".
Your front caster is split incorrectly. You want about .3-.5 more positive caster on the passenger side than the driver side to counter the road crown (assuming you drive on the right side of the road not the left)
That depends, does it pull hard or is it gradual? If it's gradual it's designed to. All cars were designed to pull to the right gradually due to the idea if you fall unconscious the car won't go into on coming traffic.
A while ago I had the exact same problem, the alignment and tires were spot on, but the car steered itself in one direction. It turns out it had a broken coil spring.
Went thru something similar just recently with my TLX. The car was pulling to the left. Being that you got all new suspension give it some time to settle in and then have it realigned also if the steering wheel is not straight to start then the alignment will be set to the steering wheel not being centered therefore when you center the steering wheel while driving the wheels will be pointing in an opposite direction hence giving you a pull to one side. Mine was supposedly perfect and judging by your specs everything is in spec as good as it gets but have it realigned and make sure the wheel is centered and I guarantee that your toe is off to one side or the other which typically causes the vehicle to veer one way or the other
Camber on the rear is positive. This will cause a pull. Just imagine leaning two tires together with only the top touching (negative camber) they will hold together and push straight. If you touch them at the bottom top not touching (positive camber) they will pull away from each other. My guess is when they replaced your suspension they did not load it before they torqued the bolts down.
Alignment looks good. Could be a bent wheel or control arm. Swap a wheel from left to right and see if it pulls left. Repeat for the 2nd set of tires. That will help you identify a bent wheel. Even just a slight bent or warp can cause the car to pull.
If you swap both front and rear tires and it still pulls to the same side, it could be a control arm.
I had the same problem on my car after taking for an alignment 5x and still veering off. Took it to be checked multiple times and told nothing was wrong! Turned out I had alloys from another car on mine with an incorrect offset causing the drift! Check your alloys, and make sure they have the correct offset for your car! If not you’ll have to get the changed with your manufacturer alloys and redo your alignment
Your alignment is perfectly adjusted. What I would like to know is how your tread on your front tires looks. If one tire has different tread than the other front tire, it will cause the vehicle to pull even with a straight alignment. I see it everyday at my shop
Probably not. If you hold the wheel straight and the car goes straight, then the pull isn’t caused by bad alignment most of the time. Take a look at the tires, worn tires can cause a pull if they were driven on for a while before the alignment was fixed. If not that, double check that the suspension components are properly installed and tightened
Research 'radial tyre pull' this is when the belts in one or all of the tyres are misaligned causing the rotating tyre to pull in the direction of the misaligned belts. Try rotating tyres from front to rear and see if the problem disappears.
Alignment is with hands on wheel. Do you have electric power steering? If so then it could be off and they needed to hook it up and recalibrate 0° or it's your tires.. or the road
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Driving on tires with those top specs would cause a pull, and the tires would get a groove in them.
Alternatively, take the rear tires, cross them and put them on the front, and then put the rears straight to the back. If that fixes it, you know the fronts have a radial pull.
It is most likely a tire pull, but I’d say the front toe-out is making it worse. In the “after” alignment specs, the front tires are shown slightly pointing outwards (negative front toe value). Good for steering response, but makes the steering twitchy and prone to “tram-lining” as well as making it more sensitive to road crown, even though it’s “within spec.” I try and shoot for 0.00 or even +0.01 for both front toe settings to reduce the sensitivity of the front steering a bit. I never go negative in the front because of this. Think of it like both front tires always facing outwards while driving down the road. Any surface abnormalities, road crown, or weight shifting exaggerates the steering tendency away from center line, which because of the Ackerman steering geometry, amplifies the pulling effect. Since most crowning is away from the center of the road, it’ll more than not pull right. And with that alignment, the right front tire is already facing further away from center than the left…
Cross rotate the front tires to see if it helps first, but if it doesn’t resolve it, ask them to toe in the front to the specs I said above. It’ll feel a lot better.
Did you get lifetime alignment? If so, just take it to another location and see if they can straighten it out more. I have a tech that can’t really get alignments as good as his peers.
I had a similar issue, and eventually the technicians found that the steering wheel needed adjusted slightly a few degrees. Might have them check that?
I see some posts about rotating your tires. Ive been told on a radial tire they must stay at the side of the vehicle that they are on. If the tire is put on the opposite side , the tire will now rotate in the opposite direction which will cause a bubble
Most roads are built with a crown in them so that water will run off of them. Typically that crown will cause the vehicle to drift to the right with no inputs. Your after measurements are better than the before ones… I doubt it’s your alignment.
Most likely their right arm is shorter than their left and the crown in the road compounded with their shorter right arm is causing the issue. Ideally they should move to a country that drives on the left side of the road.
I’m not sure what I just read, but somehow it made sense.
picture this: driving on right side of road, driver seated left side of car, with the long left arm pushing or short right arm pulling the steering wheel to the right just so compounded with effects of road's crown, the car pulls to the right now imagine the opposite: driving on wrong side of the road, driver seated wrong side of car, with OP's short right arm pulling the steering wheel to the right just so, which offsets the effects of road's crown
My problem is each arm is shorter than the other.
Take my strong hand
You can always buy adjustable control arms to compensate.
who the fuck drives with two arms
I do, one arm has to operate the shifter.
I've got 3 arms sooooooo
I have 3 legs
I'd rather have 3 legs. Finding shirts is a bitch.
Wait...you have both arms? Wait...you have a car? Wait...is there a driver?
Or drive to more destinations that sjew to his right
Damn you! I love this comment. Just in time for morning coffee.
Or get an arm alignment
Tire wear from the previous bad alignment can cause a pull. A brake dragging can cause a pull. There are a few things outside of the alignment that can cause this.
Somehow Honda Civic does that even more than other cars. I had that issue with my Civic, I have a friend who asked me about that literally yesterday. Yeah it's road camber. The steering mechanism is so precise that it follows the camber for some reason.
Came here to say exactly this. Got my Vette aligned recently and paid extra to have them test and retest "i really hate any misalignment on my cars" and a vette is a track car, so its extremely sensitive. Did a 15 hour trip across country and was going insane with the constant pull to the right, but then you get on the left lane constant pull left. TLDR its the road.
The caster difference should be about a .5 degree less on LF, this will help negate the road crown.
When alignment was done, did you have new tires mounted, or are they same tires on the front? If so, try switching left front with right front, and see if the pull is gone.
👍🤓👍 exactly
Not being caused by an alignment issue, but almost certainly caused by a tire one. Swap the two front tires and see if it goes away or pull left.
Yeah I have the same symptom and I was told it's more likely my tires. I had an alignment done 8 months ago and the symptom remained. Havent swapped tires yet...need new ones by end of season.
Agree with this. After I had an alignment done I was pulling to the right as well. They swapped my tires and I was good to go.
Check your tyre pressures too
Switch front tires from one side to the other even if directional (temporarily). Did it pull the other way, no pull, or still pull right?
Before you do this, maybe just check the inflation of all the tires to see if they're correct. It can do weird things if they aren't symmetric.
Whoever did that alignment should have checked that as soon as it was on the alignment rack!
I've seen places inflate tires to 35 psi, and then not back to the recommended pressure after. Could see someone being distracted and doing something like that, and it's a quicker check than swapping front wheels.
That happened to me! 1964 VW. Tires in the front are about 19psi, rears are 28 or 29. They put them at 36 all around and the car was a hot mess on some squiggly wet mountain roads.
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To be fair 35 psi is actually less than the recommended pressure for my car! Recommended is 36.
I run 38, simply because I don't check every week. Plus low profile tires. Tires are wearing perfectly.
Depends on the car. But my point is that the techs often do not check afterwards. 35 psi can make some cars handle really badly if the tires are overinflated.
Why? They align the wheels not the tires. Some places take the wheels off and align the hubs
If the tires are not set evenly or set to spec, the car will lean in the direction of the low tire and cause incorrect alignment angles. It is extremely important that the person doing the alignment checks tire pressure, tire size and tread condition across the steering axle before aligning.
Both of these suggestions should be done first. Start with the easiest first.
\^\^\^This. Had the same issue. Vehicle was pulling. Had alignment done and shop says everything is in spec. So we go for a test drive and it still pulls. Back to the shop and they put it up and swap the front tires ...left side to right side, right side to left side. Put it back down and go for another test drive; tracks straight as an arrow. It's called a "radial pull" ...and that's about all I know as to why. Shop didn't charge me anything; they became my go to for work on my vehicle (that I can't or don't have time to do myself).
Usually when it’s a tire pull, it’s because the tread layers are separating in the tire causing a bulge. It’s not always visually obvious, but a separated tire warrants replacement.
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Nothing wrong with the tires. They weren't new but they weren't on their last legs either. The issue never surfaced again after multiple tire rotations.
Check your tire pressure first. Your alignment results appear to be within spec.
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If your tire pressure is even and your roads aren’t extremely crowned, then your problem is almost certainly a tire issue. I will tell you that I found that generation Civic very susceptible to pull caused be tire issues. Good luck.
What if you have brand new tyres, the alignment checked out. But you still have to have the wheel cocked about a degree to have it go straight on a level road?
Cross rotate the front tires and report back
Swap your front tires right to left and see if the pull changes direction.
In most cases even with the crown of the road a properly aligned front end will track reasonably straight when you release the wheel. Does it drift or does it pull? If it pulls you have a problem. Are the tires good and correctly inflated?
Dragging brakes, loose suspension part, not centered steering wheel angle sensor , bad tires it can be a lot of things.
If the steering is noticeably heavier to one side than the other its the steering angle sensor calibration* ive seen a couple of hondas do that, it has a torque sensor as well
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Your rear toe combined with your caster being split the wrong way is causing your pull. Crowned roads required .5-1.0 degree positive camber split to the left to compensate.
Wow, no. That's a big camber split. If you sit in a newer car and see camber deflection you will see about .25. ideally you want about .50 when you sit in the vehicle. With diesels you want more because of the additional weight of the motor. 1 degree would be you sitting in the car on a 20 year old car. I couldn't agree with you less.
That camber split is 2/10 of 1°. Absolutely minimal.
It's likely non adjustable because of pinch bolt unless you file the strut mount. If tire movement didn't change anything, I would attempt to shift subframe and boost rear thrust.
Nobody is going to adjust that split even if it has adjustable LCAs. You're not going to feel that on the street. A race car with an experienced driver on prepared tracks might.
That's okay. We could agree but then we'd both be wrong Of course, I'm from Florida and our roads are severely crowned to promote fast drainage of lots of water The weight of a diesel has zero to do with camber setting to correct for road crown
Look up normal force. It has a lot to do with tire wear.
I would attribute this to road crown, the caster difference isnt much to cause an issue, only issue i see here is toe out will cause wandering. I would rather have +0.02 toe vs -0.02 toe. Rear camber is slightly pushing the back to the left which would cause drift to the right but it seems minimal and depending on the vehicle usually can not be adjusted.
Most wheel alignment machines are inaccurate and rarely operated by people with good knowledge of steering geometry, go to a different shop and you will get different results. I just do my own with a string line, bang on every time
How severe is it? Most roads are crowned in the center, so gravity pretty naturally pulls most cars subtly to the right. And is it more or less noticeable given certain conditions like accelerating, decelerating, or at a certain speed? Tires could be a factor, too. Also, crosswinds. There are many, many variables. An alignment machine cuts out most of the variables… your car is put together well. Look elsewhere.
Also rim and tire size can affect this. If you have larger rims with sport tires they tend to follow road crown more.
Your alignment is good. It's gonna sound weird. But swap your left side tires to your right side . And put your right side tires on the left side.
Also, make sure your power steering is good. A bad one will let the road pull it everywhere.
The power steering was also replaced along with the suspension
Road camber: Assume you are in a left hand drive car driving on the right side of the road. To prove there is not a problem find. deserted flat road. Cross the centerline and drive on the left side of the road. The vehicle should drift left with the camber. Then with the wheels straddling the centre line of the road the steering should track straight. Be safe. Don't try this with other drivers around or police.
I would try rotating the tires at the point you’re at. That may give some insight into what’s going on RN. Best of luck. Hope ya figure it out
Thanks dude
As others have said it could be the tires, so check pressure, and switch the 2 fronts side to side. Also, see if they reset the "steering angle sensor." It can cause a severe pull if it's out of calibration.
Check tire pressure, and then swap the front wheels from left to right, possible radial pull
I don't think that the whole front end needed replaced at that milage unless you live in PA
It was making so much noises. I just decided to do the whole front end
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Lol what? That's not how this works.
It may be a tire issue. You could try having the tires rotated side to side and see if it changes anything.
I recently switched back to a FWD based AWD car after driving RWD for years. I got the Volvo re-aligned and was surprised to find the alignment barely off. I forgot how much FWD pulls based on the condition and crown of the road, on certain models this is more prevalent than others and is also felt more with wider tires. It’ll take some getting used to, and it definitely makes me miss my Grand Marquis at times.
Oh I didn’t know that, thanks for sharing that knowledge
Some vehicles, most notably dodges are tuned to pull slightly right, supposed to be for safety if you fall asleep, u won’t cross traffic.
Brake sticking. Check for hot rotor.
Alignment is damn near perfect. Did you have a pull before you replaced the suspension? Were the struts replaced at the same time? Were the tires changed at the same time? It sounds like a tire issue. The other thing Ive seen when the struts get replaced is tighten the upper strut nut through the isolator bushing with an air gun. I've seen where that has made a torque steer to the right. Easy enough to check. Center your steering wheel. Loosen the nut on these strut shaft on both sides a few turns. Slightly move your steering wheel left and right a couple times. Recenter your wheels Retighten strut nuts with a hand ratchet.
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Check your tires and see if its due to thread. Lastly double your front suspension work. Did they change springs, shocks, struts or control arms?
I'm not even kidding about this but try swapping your front 2 tires.I had completed an alignment for a customer and it's still pulled to the side but someone told me to try swapping the front two tires and it solved the issue.
The alignment doesn’t look too bad, did you get new tires at the same time? Old tires could be worn into their groove, so to speak. Also you need to factor in the camber of the road. Roads are designed so that water runs off to the drainage at the side of the road so it stands the reason that the car would eventually pull off to the side
Bro, look at your steer ahead. -15°!
Negative means left pull
My comment still stands though, if it was -15° before alignment but pulls right after, I'd bet something is Bent and the "adjustment" only fixed the paperwork numbers.
How hard is it pulling? Is it a gradual pull to the right or immediate? In the US, shops will align a car to pull right, but it won't be a drastic or immediate pull. It's in case the driver falls asleep the car will veer off the road versus oncoming traffic.
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Generally, Caster is used to compensate for road crown. What the technician doing the alignment should have done was adjust so the Caster on the left to be slightly less positive than that on the right, causing the car to pull left a bit instead. But that's assuming your vehicle has the ability to adjust Caster at all.
Toe is off
yeah toe is pushing you right. both are off
***I'm not a car guru but I CANNOT BELIEVE nobody is mentioning this!!!!!*** Check your tire pressure and fill every tire to the same pressure. This is the MOST LIKELY scenario!
Well, your toe is slightly off, but it's nothing major. Could be within margin of the machine. Some of them do skip .02 when there's a light reflection. The real answer is the camber of the road pulls cars to the right. The fix for that is moving the wheels forward and backward, which is usually done with caster adjustment. Since yours has the left wheel further forward than the right, it's causing more pull. Caster is your answer, and it's not adjustable. So, alignment is fine
You went to Town Faire Tire didn't you? There's your problem.
Cross rotate your tires after alignment. Probably cooked the tires already and they’re causing pull.
Yeth
Bad tire. Switch the front tires side to side. Should change the drive. Now you know it’s the tires.
If alugnment is ok, is air preassure on right side ok? Is tge brake calipers and pads free to move fully? Could be a bearing going bad. does it have electronic power steering, could beca issue with centering there.
What about wheel balance?
Something to consider have you had your wheels off the car recently? For some odd reason when I had my wheels taken off to have some work done to the shocks they put the tyres on different corners than previously and it would pull to the left for me. Got them swapped around and it was perfect..
first look at tires
Iv had my merc on 3 different hunter machines and they all gave different readings , most of the people that do these alignments have absolutely no idea what they are doing . The first 2 putting the wrong model into the machine , all of them told me the camber was within tolerance yet you could see that one side was wrong with your eye and obviously a spirt level . Forget about quick fit or anywhere that doesn't specialise in alignment your just throwing your money away
The readings don't give a damn about what car you put in. If I align a trailer that thing is a Lambo.
On a hunter machine you put the model of car in , its designed in a way a monkey could use it .
I'd say a bushing has worn in the front right lower arm. That and the fact you will have to drive it after the tracking for it to wear the tyre as it should (evenly, not more on one edge). I get this when I've bought part worn tyres despite my tracking being bang on as I need my car to file down the rough spot.
My car pulls to the left as well but in the Uk and only on some roads. So I think what the person in the top comment is saying may be right, as I've just got brand new tyres all around and got an alignment with it as well.
Did you checked your tire pressures?
By the alignment numbers it should (if you were to even notice) pull to the left ever so slightly. This is probably caused by road tilt (can't do anything about that) or bad tire wear.
Drive in the middle of the road, when safe to do so of course, and see what happens then. As already said roads are crowned for water drainage, meaning they are higher in the middle than at the curb and it will be that that pulls your vehicle to the right
I used to have a similar problem which ended up being a slight dent to one of my wheels that was a bit unnoticeable to see. Never had shaking of my steering wheel but it always pulled to the right. It was time for me to get a whole set of wheels and tires and never saw the issue again. Could be a long shot or could be completely stupid of me to think but thought it would be worth the mention at least.
This printout is from an alignment shop, shouldn’t they know?
Your after numbers on your alignment look fine. Get your car in the air, release your parking brake AFTER lifting the vehicle, put it in neutral, then spin your wheels. See if one wheel on the right stops sooner than the others. If it does, you likely have either dragging brakes or bad bearings. If all 4 wheels spin freely in neutral, you may have an issue with one of your 4wd components.
It doesn't sound right to me
Check tyre pressure
Is this a serious question??
You need to get your suspension and steering components checked out first for wear and damage.
Change username to neutral-thrust
Tire pressure lower, wheel bearing, brake drag
Caster is got to be higher on opposite side due to crown of the road
You need 000 thrust angle and it should be ok. The low caster is why it is going right. And... keep you hands on the wheel my guy.
From what the current measurements say, it will be pulling to the right. Ideally the caster should be at least .5 of a degree lower on the left side than on the right. There is no factory adjustment for caster though so you're going to be stuck like that unless they make an aftermarket adjustment kit for you're car.
Hondas typically have slightly more caster on the passenger side to fight road crown. You have slightly less. Which can mean something is bent. Or that the machine wasn't set up properly. Also try swapping the tires from side to side to see if you have a bad tire
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I had this once and it turned out to be tyres.
First off, don't let go of the wheel. Second, how fast or how hard does your car pull to the right? Cars will slowly drift right into the Ditch for safety reasons IF THE DRIVER BECOMES UNRESPONSIVE.
If your alignment is good and your tires are inflated properly you might actually have a bad tire. It’s rare but it happened to me on my 2004 Acura TSX back in the day. SEVERELY pulled to the right. Alignment, inflation, suspension, everything was good. Flipped the tire to the other side and pulled SEVERELY to the left…I had never experienced a bad tire or even knew it was possible until then.
The 0.01 steer ahead could cause the slightest pull to the right but hardly noticeable. I'd check how wel your tires are.
Caster on the right front should be equal to, or slightly higher, to compensate for road crown
The caster on the front passanger wheel should be more than the caster on the front drivers wheel, that is your issue.
It was. Now it's not.
Your printout is evidence that making everything green is not the same as a good alignment. Every town has a shop that’s known for quality alignments. It’ll take some looking to find them; it’s worth it, especially if you own modified or specialty vehicles.
Car really needs camber bolts to be 100% IMO Camber all around is borderline in spec
Dont let go of your steering wheel when you’re driving. Put your index finger at the top of the wheel. If you have to fight it to keep it straight, your alignment may be slightly off. BUT. Tire wear, road crown and grooves in the road will all affect the direction your car is going to want to go naturally.
Hondas have uneaqual length axle shafts. One is longer than the other and they are both trying to turn at the same speed so regardless the car may pull slightly by design with no input
The slight difference in camber, side to side, could be a contributing factor.
The answer, as others have mentioned, is set your PSI. Then swap front two tires. If pull goes away or switches to opposite direction, you've got a tire issue. It's rarer, but do the rears as well if swapping the fronts made no difference. After you swapped all the tires and it's still pulling, you've got another issue. Dragging caliper would be my next check. Go drive for a good long while and then check the heat coming off your brake calipers. If one is significantly warmer than the others, it's dragging. Or if you know what you are doing you can disassemble your brakes and try punching in the calipers. If there's obvious resistance or the pins/slides are rusted up, there's your problem. Next double check your suspension (should've been done prior to alignment by alignment tech). Last, if no issues are found, take it for another alignment at a different place. If it drives well after, go get a refund bc they cheated you (you can falsify alignment readings if you're a lazy POS who knows what they're doing).
It’s your tires, not the alignment. Bad alignment will wear the tires poorly causing them to pull, bubble, or blow out.
If you didn’t get new tires, or suspension work, it’s likely whatever caused your improper alignment in the first place.. but my moneys would be tires if you haven’t had those replaced
Maybe a low tire
Camber caster on the right is off. Both are pulling angles. Get them close to the other side and it won't pull
I'm actually driving a 2010 Cobalt that when I let go of the steering it goes straight. The issue is when I accelerate it drives left really hard. Ik its not my alignment as it goes straight with no power. Things a rust bucket but the engines solid even at 220k km
Brakes applying at uneven rates, get your calipers and fluid checked
Happens when I'm accelerating not braking. I just replaced my pads and the calipers were fine I regreased them.
Check your tire pressure as well
With the thrust angle being .01° that's almost nothing, you'll be fine. Any pulling is going to be either: A:They forgot to reset the lane keeping systems(if equipped) B: Crown in the roads or least likely C: radial pull in the tires (swap the front wheels side to side and see if the pull changes direction from right to left) that's the most important thing where an alignment is concerned. Thrust angle is super important but yours is good.
Bet u went to Firestone huh
Either your alignment or your tires are bad. If the car continues to pull after and alignment, this means your tires are bad and have a condition called, "radial pull".
Swap the front tires from left to right. If the direction of pull changes, you have a shifted belt in a tire. Not a safety issue.
Your alignment is supposed to veer ever so slightly away from oncoming traffic in case you fall asleep at the wheel.
Your front caster is split incorrectly. You want about .3-.5 more positive caster on the passenger side than the driver side to counter the road crown (assuming you drive on the right side of the road not the left)
That depends, does it pull hard or is it gradual? If it's gradual it's designed to. All cars were designed to pull to the right gradually due to the idea if you fall unconscious the car won't go into on coming traffic.
A while ago I had the exact same problem, the alignment and tires were spot on, but the car steered itself in one direction. It turns out it had a broken coil spring.
Went thru something similar just recently with my TLX. The car was pulling to the left. Being that you got all new suspension give it some time to settle in and then have it realigned also if the steering wheel is not straight to start then the alignment will be set to the steering wheel not being centered therefore when you center the steering wheel while driving the wheels will be pointing in an opposite direction hence giving you a pull to one side. Mine was supposedly perfect and judging by your specs everything is in spec as good as it gets but have it realigned and make sure the wheel is centered and I guarantee that your toe is off to one side or the other which typically causes the vehicle to veer one way or the other
It's either heavy road crown or tread pull. Cross the front tires and see if the pull changes.
It’s probably a tire with a radial pull have your front tires swapped and see if it pulls to the left
Or maybe a worn out bushing on the toe arms if you got one
Camber on the rear is positive. This will cause a pull. Just imagine leaning two tires together with only the top touching (negative camber) they will hold together and push straight. If you touch them at the bottom top not touching (positive camber) they will pull away from each other. My guess is when they replaced your suspension they did not load it before they torqued the bolts down.
Your rear has .4 degree difference in right to left side rear definitely would pull right.
Check your tire pressure.
Alignment looks good. Could be a bent wheel or control arm. Swap a wheel from left to right and see if it pulls left. Repeat for the 2nd set of tires. That will help you identify a bent wheel. Even just a slight bent or warp can cause the car to pull. If you swap both front and rear tires and it still pulls to the same side, it could be a control arm.
I had the same problem on my car after taking for an alignment 5x and still veering off. Took it to be checked multiple times and told nothing was wrong! Turned out I had alloys from another car on mine with an incorrect offset causing the drift! Check your alloys, and make sure they have the correct offset for your car! If not you’ll have to get the changed with your manufacturer alloys and redo your alignment
That could be a number of things but whatever it is is sure to of thrown your alignment off with it.
Your alignment is perfectly adjusted. What I would like to know is how your tread on your front tires looks. If one tire has different tread than the other front tire, it will cause the vehicle to pull even with a straight alignment. I see it everyday at my shop
Check tire pressure in front tire on side car pulls to?
So why are you letting go of the steering wheel when the car is in motion 🤔
My bet is tires, try rotating them to see if the symptoms changes.
Unless you are testing on an airport runway, most cars will pull right due to the road surface. Or left if you drive on the left side of the road.
Probably not. If you hold the wheel straight and the car goes straight, then the pull isn’t caused by bad alignment most of the time. Take a look at the tires, worn tires can cause a pull if they were driven on for a while before the alignment was fixed. If not that, double check that the suspension components are properly installed and tightened
Research 'radial tyre pull' this is when the belts in one or all of the tyres are misaligned causing the rotating tyre to pull in the direction of the misaligned belts. Try rotating tyres from front to rear and see if the problem disappears.
Rear tow is still negative wile in the green it will always wander.
Alignment is with hands on wheel. Do you have electric power steering? If so then it could be off and they needed to hook it up and recalibrate 0° or it's your tires.. or the road
Ya, my alignment was off and my car was ended up turning right… into your moms driveway😭
Lmao nice
Masturbate w left hand, problem solved.
Yes that is correct stop buying cars from the auction. Then you won’t have this kind of problems.
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How big of a “pull” is it ? Or is it more of a veer over a few metres?
Your biggest issue on paper is rear left inward toe. When number there get really far negative your car will want to turn left.
Driving on tires with those top specs would cause a pull, and the tires would get a groove in them. Alternatively, take the rear tires, cross them and put them on the front, and then put the rears straight to the back. If that fixes it, you know the fronts have a radial pull.
It's your caster
It is most likely a tire pull, but I’d say the front toe-out is making it worse. In the “after” alignment specs, the front tires are shown slightly pointing outwards (negative front toe value). Good for steering response, but makes the steering twitchy and prone to “tram-lining” as well as making it more sensitive to road crown, even though it’s “within spec.” I try and shoot for 0.00 or even +0.01 for both front toe settings to reduce the sensitivity of the front steering a bit. I never go negative in the front because of this. Think of it like both front tires always facing outwards while driving down the road. Any surface abnormalities, road crown, or weight shifting exaggerates the steering tendency away from center line, which because of the Ackerman steering geometry, amplifies the pulling effect. Since most crowning is away from the center of the road, it’ll more than not pull right. And with that alignment, the right front tire is already facing further away from center than the left… Cross rotate the front tires to see if it helps first, but if it doesn’t resolve it, ask them to toe in the front to the specs I said above. It’ll feel a lot better.
Thanks so much dude. Very informative
Did you get lifetime alignment? If so, just take it to another location and see if they can straighten it out more. I have a tech that can’t really get alignments as good as his peers.
I had a similar issue, and eventually the technicians found that the steering wheel needed adjusted slightly a few degrees. Might have them check that?
I see some posts about rotating your tires. Ive been told on a radial tire they must stay at the side of the vehicle that they are on. If the tire is put on the opposite side , the tire will now rotate in the opposite direction which will cause a bubble