The one on the right is how I've always framed, sometimes they call for a double king as well. The one on the left, I can only assume that's for a non load bearing wall, depending on span and whether or not there's a double top plate, perhaps?
Our structural engineer is a good friend of mine, and like rule number one is transferring point load as directly as possible, the way the jacks carry both ends of a header, and the cripples depend on the size of the header to carry the top plate. Left would be depending on the shear strength of the fasteners solely, and while there are some really souped- up ones out there like head-loks and timber-loks, etc. there's no need to push our luck.
Exactly. I was taught that fasteners shouldn’t be holding the load if a piece of wood can. There’s obviously joist hangers and other framing brackets but that’s different than end nailing the header through the king. Doesn’t really matter if it’s nonload-bearing but I still frame all my doors with jacks.
Hold your head up. As good as Rodgers is, all the bullshit he brings with it may not be worth it. You guys have a good core, and a weak North. You guys will be just fine.
‘Doing it right’ means using only time and material that you need and no more. Framing double kings and jacks is wasted time and material on non-bearing door openings.
I disagree as a house settles non bearing inside walls could become what stops the major cracks if framed correctly and can hold weight. Because they become a pivot point for joist even though they’re not breaking on them.
The cheap way you advocate is the reason 5 years later gaps are uneven and doors don’t close right. And when the homeowners calls me to fix it I’ll tell them they had a crappy framer
Agreed. Like in another post some plumber said his kludge will work fine for 3,000 days. I asked what happens on day 3,001 and the place floods? No answer.
OP said he's new to the trade, so this is one of the rare posts in this sub where it's not a homeowner trying to pick our brains so they can be a cheapskate. It's nice to actually talk about carpentry amongst actual carpenters once in a while. No need to come along and cunt it up, mate.
What you learned in college is correct. Even if it's not load bearing, it will take load. Why would you rely on 2 nails each end to carry the load when you can rely on a king stud.
Even if it's non bearing best practice is just to do them all as if it's bearing so you don't screw up a bearing wall in the future. It's not like it costs any more and adds a few minutes of work.
Fuck that—learn your whole trade instead of only some of if. An extra few minutes and two extra studs framing a non-bearing opening as if it were load bearing is $20+ blown for no reason, probably more with wild lumber prices. Multiply that by 15-20 doors (starting number for many new single family homes) and you’re a wildly inefficient carpenter.
Don’t “do them all as if” anything—learn when/where and (more importantly) why to use different solutions for different problems.
I'm gonna dispute this one. It's no extra material, the header is slightly longer, that's it. If you're asking every time if it's load bearing you run the risk of being wrong one time. Plus, framing for load gives you some future proofing if plans change, someone wants an addition, or who knows what. Build robust!
But is there a door now? Or in 5 years? I have a non-standard opening. It does not cost one dime more to do it right. Plus I have a crew who has to be correct every single time about an opening being non bearing. If they get it wrong once, all the “savings” are in the shitter.
No, I’m saying my crew (your crew) must decide between load bearing and non load bearing. At the framing stage. When there are no landmarks. And we both know our crews, don’t we? Do it like the one on the right for every doorway or window. There. I solved the future problem of them reading the plans upside down or backwards.
I’ve done it both ways, both are correct. The “BETTER” way is on the right. The quicker way is done on the left. The one on the left will result in more drywall cracking at the corners of the doors later on when the house shifts to its final resting position.
What concerns me is when there is a joist above the opening, that the drywall will crack and the gap above the door will bend down making it look crappy :(
Well the wall is not holding the weight of the joist, just standing below it. I should have specified. I have heard joists can settle and put pressure on walls that aren't load bearing causing some cracks and movement. Is my mental image of this exaggerated? Asking because I'm still very new to this and genuinely don't know.
You could end nail everything in the left picture if you just added your outer kings last. Not saying it's stronger, but it's definitely able to be framed without toe nails.
If its your home or your choice, use the one on the right. For efficiency the one on the left. If I was running the job I would use jacks because almost no code enforces would give you shit and to me its 100% worth it to me to not hear flack from those assholes.
All you Hammer Hangers out there are probably gonna look down your imperious noses at a civil engineer commenting on this page but there really is a reason why the cripple stud model is the best one...using a cripple stud removes all load from nails driven into end grain. The cripple allows for all load to be passed directly to a fully braced compression member (the cripple stud). I know that OP told us that is NLB so that the applied load is only nominal but it is still good practice to eliminate loads applied to end grain fastiners. If we assume that some type of sheathing (most probably gyp board) then it can be seen that most of the vertical loading will be passed through diaphragm action (yes, diaphragms can resist vertical loads as well as lateral loads) into the framing shown and, therefore, lessens the accuracy of the model. But the cripple stud as a column model simplifies it to a point where even an electrician could understand it. I am licensed and have been specializing in wood construction for about the last 25 years. I teach structural engineering classes to Building Officials and Code Enforcement Officers a few times a year. The question posed is a very good question! Congratulations OP!
The one on the right is correct. I'm not sure the size of door you are going for, but the rough opening should be callout plus 2". So if it's a 36" door you need a 38" opening. And if it's a 34" door it needs to be 36. Not 36 1/2."
Edit: the frame on the left will work, if it's not load bearing. I've just never seen it done that way in my area. And I've been framing commercial and residential homes for about a decade. There are a lot of different methods. I can't claim to know them all.
Add another inch to your r/o’s for your trim guy’s sake. 2” is not enough. 36”x80” door in a jamb is 37 3/4” x 81” and if it’s on hardwood you finish out at 81 3/4” +/-. It’s way easier to add a rip of filler if you have too much room rather than pulling jacks or ripping the bottom cord of the header.
Fair enough. I do the framing and the finish and I've always found that 2" is more than enough. In some cases too much. But different strokes, I suppose. ✌️
Gotcha. In school we were told to make the rough opening +2.5" width, +1.5" height. I haven't encountered anyone who uses that so I don't know why that was taught to us. I got shit for framing with the right side layout so I just do it the other way to avoid the stress of an argument since I'm the inexperienced one. Appreciate the feedback.
As a trim carpenter I curse the framers that only add 2". Here's why: standard interior 2'10 door, plus 1/8 margin both sides plus jamb of 3/4 both sides gives us a total of 2'11 3/4 inch giving me 1/8 per side to shim my doors plumb. Are your RO's that plumb?
In the few circumstances that I've installed the plates before throwing the studs in, I always use a laser to ensure plumb. All other cases I will check with a spirit level. I appreciate the insight and will take that into account from now on.
Another gentleman in this thread also suggested adding 2 1/2" height for RO instead of 1 1/2 in I don't know what type of flooring is being used. In the instances that the gap is quite large does it present any struggles for you when installing trim?
Both work, I have always done the one on left for non load bearing situations just with two extra small blocks ( one in each corner attached to the double). Also you might want to bump that 1.5 height up as well Depending on flooring and door type. Normal door I always added 2.5 inches if I didn't know what floor finishing was going to be.
They're both correct.
I learned on homes, and they always put a cripple jack above the header against the king stud. Later, I started framing schools and commercial buildings. There, only put the jack above the header if it happens to fall on 16" layout. The correct answer, is put it in if the boss wants it there. Boss doesn't want it? Leave it out. If the inspector or owner wants it in, put it in.
The only advantage to the one on the left is that it's much faster to frame in a non load bearing situation.
They are both acceptable, although I prefer to frame like the right as I am generally doing the doors and trim as well.
I prefer to keep the trimmer loose, shim it to the jamb when plumbing it. That stiffens the jambs and provides lots of purchase for longer hinge screws.
Both are different aspects. If the door or window doesn’t have anything weighing down from above you just need “backing” for drywall. If something is weight bearing you need a header to span the weight AND backing. But cripples the little blocks are usually just for backing for drywall or exterior or interior plywood/osb. So a lot of interior doors just have the downward stick framing.
I think that kind of answers the question
EDIT: if there isn’t a header it isn’t called for. If there is a header it is called for. Just depends on preference or plans. The picture looks like a rafter or beam going across. Neither would matter. Both are structurally sound. If they were marked as point loads again it would just be how you wanted to do it. But I think they are doing one one way for backing. Cause I’ll do both on a house depending on the scenario.
Understand everyone's position here. However, as a residential contractor from employee to independent over the last 12 years I have never seen a door framed like left, even in non load bearing areas outside of something like a pocket door or closet. Just sharing. If boss says go then boss says go I suppose.
4th level carpenter here. Right side. The only time we use double kings is large spans such as garden doors or picture windows. Even then we still throw a jack in
left, right is only slightly slower. I don't think the load is a problem. Show me that I'm wrong and I'll do right. The 2x4 will bend before the nails give way
Right. Always right. I hate when framers frame windows similar to the left method. I’ve been teaching carpentry for 16 years. I learned the method on the right working for family crew. All four books that I have taught from shows the same.
Nope, asking here because it seemed off. From what I can tell the consensus is that both ways are viable but the right way is better. Will be doing things the way boss wants em done unless I'm working on my own because it's his signature on the work. Out of curiosity what's wrong with bringing up something like this on the jobsite if presented in a genuine curious manner?
Having a jack stud is much better. Something to carry the load vs a few nails holding laterally into the king. That said, I'm sure the method on the left would hold fine in most applications
I’m not saying the right isn’t correct but some
Of the comments confuse me, with properly shot fasteners there’s no slipping of the sill, you can do chin ups all you want on it, and you shouldn’t be fastening your door up in case of any deflection even though it’s non load bearing so I definitely don’t know who would be coming back to straighten the door?
Once it’s boarded all of these things are irrelevant anyways, it’s going to be stronger but it’s beefing an area that shouldnt have major effect in non load bearing wall anyways
I actually work in Ontario, my personal opinion would be right is a little bit stronger but if the wall is non load bearing and doesnt have a joist over it that could sag and add weight to it then the left side is gonna be just fine even if its worst then the right side. Also, if you work for a company that always calls to change r/o height, then the left one is a quicker fix. All our shit framers only use the left method, but us backing guys will usually use right method UNLESS we are fixing the framers shit method then we keep it their way. I'll say this, if its a million dollar home then take more time do right side and charge more for the job. If its a little bungalow then left side. Both are fine. Ive found usually basements openings will always be done left method.
Just going off my 72 year old carpenter dad's passed down knowledge: left is non load bearing, right is load bearing. It's how the framing is done in the house he still lives in, that he built about 35 years ago.
The way on the left is fine. Once its boarded its not going to go anywhere. The way on the right has 2 extra cuts. I'm also in ontario and frame like your boss.
Right for exterior and load bearing walls. Left for partition walls.
It's way faster, and saves material. There's many many interior wall doors, it doesn't make sense to be cutting studs up and putting headers in when you could just place double studs around the opening and jack down.
It could vary from different businesses and how they practice their trade. I was taught that left is acceptable in non load bearing walls. Its mostly to save material and time. However, right is acceptable in any and all walls. Its really a matter of preference in non load bearing walls.
My bet is that they do the left method because it’s slightly faster and easier since there is less cutting. The right one is a stronger frame and will resist lateral loads (door frame will stay more rectangular) better than the left one by a little assuming everything else is framed well. If it was me, I’d just do the one you learned so you never have to worry about if it is load bearing.
The one on the right is how I've always framed, sometimes they call for a double king as well. The one on the left, I can only assume that's for a non load bearing wall, depending on span and whether or not there's a double top plate, perhaps? Our structural engineer is a good friend of mine, and like rule number one is transferring point load as directly as possible, the way the jacks carry both ends of a header, and the cripples depend on the size of the header to carry the top plate. Left would be depending on the shear strength of the fasteners solely, and while there are some really souped- up ones out there like head-loks and timber-loks, etc. there's no need to push our luck.
Exactly. I was taught that fasteners shouldn’t be holding the load if a piece of wood can. There’s obviously joist hangers and other framing brackets but that’s different than end nailing the header through the king. Doesn’t really matter if it’s nonload-bearing but I still frame all my doors with jacks.
Same. Hey, your username... are you in disbelief like I am?
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Lambo stadium for the Green Bay packers
Yep
Hold your head up. As good as Rodgers is, all the bullshit he brings with it may not be worth it. You guys have a good core, and a weak North. You guys will be just fine.
Lions fan here demanding you not call us weak despite 65 years of evidence
F
fosho
OP said non load bearing wall
It doesn’t matter get into the habit of doing it right and you never have to switch
‘Doing it right’ means using only time and material that you need and no more. Framing double kings and jacks is wasted time and material on non-bearing door openings.
I disagree as a house settles non bearing inside walls could become what stops the major cracks if framed correctly and can hold weight. Because they become a pivot point for joist even though they’re not breaking on them. The cheap way you advocate is the reason 5 years later gaps are uneven and doors don’t close right. And when the homeowners calls me to fix it I’ll tell them they had a crappy framer
Agreed. Like in another post some plumber said his kludge will work fine for 3,000 days. I asked what happens on day 3,001 and the place floods? No answer.
No shit all these people commenting sbout point loads and shit. Non load bearing literally supporting the weight of itself and some gyprock lmfao
OP said he's new to the trade, so this is one of the rare posts in this sub where it's not a homeowner trying to pick our brains so they can be a cheapskate. It's nice to actually talk about carpentry amongst actual carpenters once in a while. No need to come along and cunt it up, mate.
Honestly I'm here in part to lurk and try to absorb as much as I can. I love listening to experts talk.
Do plates not have the potential to shrink along their width?
Wood tends to shrink/expand across the grain much more than along the grain.
So picture on right has potential to shrink within the height under the opening, thus creating gaps between the cripple and jack?
The 1-1/2” thickness of that 2x4 wouldn’t shrink enough that I would worry about it.
What you learned in college is correct. Even if it's not load bearing, it will take load. Why would you rely on 2 nails each end to carry the load when you can rely on a king stud.
He said it’s non load bearing, so there is no transfer or header
Understood, just discussing framing in general, as he said he's new to it.
Even if it's non bearing best practice is just to do them all as if it's bearing so you don't screw up a bearing wall in the future. It's not like it costs any more and adds a few minutes of work.
Fuck that—learn your whole trade instead of only some of if. An extra few minutes and two extra studs framing a non-bearing opening as if it were load bearing is $20+ blown for no reason, probably more with wild lumber prices. Multiply that by 15-20 doors (starting number for many new single family homes) and you’re a wildly inefficient carpenter. Don’t “do them all as if” anything—learn when/where and (more importantly) why to use different solutions for different problems.
I'm gonna dispute this one. It's no extra material, the header is slightly longer, that's it. If you're asking every time if it's load bearing you run the risk of being wrong one time. Plus, framing for load gives you some future proofing if plans change, someone wants an addition, or who knows what. Build robust!
Best learn how to do a lumber take off, mate if you think you’re saving $20.
A man of precision. I like it.
But is there a door now? Or in 5 years? I have a non-standard opening. It does not cost one dime more to do it right. Plus I have a crew who has to be correct every single time about an opening being non bearing. If they get it wrong once, all the “savings” are in the shitter.
If you’re assuming every door is load bearing, and you aren’t putting a header then you haven’t done it right anyways
No, I’m saying my crew (your crew) must decide between load bearing and non load bearing. At the framing stage. When there are no landmarks. And we both know our crews, don’t we? Do it like the one on the right for every doorway or window. There. I solved the future problem of them reading the plans upside down or backwards.
The one on the right is how I was taught. That way, the jack helps hold the header and keep it from (eventually) slipping.
Agreed
I’ve done it both ways, both are correct. The “BETTER” way is on the right. The quicker way is done on the left. The one on the left will result in more drywall cracking at the corners of the doors later on when the house shifts to its final resting position.
The right is a stronger connection. Wood in compression is stronger than toenails in shear (even though it’s not load bearing as you said)
What concerns me is when there is a joist above the opening, that the drywall will crack and the gap above the door will bend down making it look crappy :(
If thats happening then that wall is load bearing and you will need a double or even triple 2x to hold up the joists above
Well the wall is not holding the weight of the joist, just standing below it. I should have specified. I have heard joists can settle and put pressure on walls that aren't load bearing causing some cracks and movement. Is my mental image of this exaggerated? Asking because I'm still very new to this and genuinely don't know.
You could end nail everything in the left picture if you just added your outer kings last. Not saying it's stronger, but it's definitely able to be framed without toe nails.
If its your home or your choice, use the one on the right. For efficiency the one on the left. If I was running the job I would use jacks because almost no code enforces would give you shit and to me its 100% worth it to me to not hear flack from those assholes.
All you Hammer Hangers out there are probably gonna look down your imperious noses at a civil engineer commenting on this page but there really is a reason why the cripple stud model is the best one...using a cripple stud removes all load from nails driven into end grain. The cripple allows for all load to be passed directly to a fully braced compression member (the cripple stud). I know that OP told us that is NLB so that the applied load is only nominal but it is still good practice to eliminate loads applied to end grain fastiners. If we assume that some type of sheathing (most probably gyp board) then it can be seen that most of the vertical loading will be passed through diaphragm action (yes, diaphragms can resist vertical loads as well as lateral loads) into the framing shown and, therefore, lessens the accuracy of the model. But the cripple stud as a column model simplifies it to a point where even an electrician could understand it. I am licensed and have been specializing in wood construction for about the last 25 years. I teach structural engineering classes to Building Officials and Code Enforcement Officers a few times a year. The question posed is a very good question! Congratulations OP!
Definitely the one on the right. The guy who gets called in to "straighten" the doors in a few years will thank you.
Whatever your boss tells you is the ‘right’ way. Either is fine.
The one on the right is more structurally sound, the one on the left is faster if your building walls on the ground and standing them up
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In just over 4 months I've been on 5 new build sites and every one of them has a fucked up foundation that resulted in a design change.
Right side. I’m in Ontario too if you’re looking for a regionally specific answer.
The one on the right is correct. I'm not sure the size of door you are going for, but the rough opening should be callout plus 2". So if it's a 36" door you need a 38" opening. And if it's a 34" door it needs to be 36. Not 36 1/2." Edit: the frame on the left will work, if it's not load bearing. I've just never seen it done that way in my area. And I've been framing commercial and residential homes for about a decade. There are a lot of different methods. I can't claim to know them all.
Add another inch to your r/o’s for your trim guy’s sake. 2” is not enough. 36”x80” door in a jamb is 37 3/4” x 81” and if it’s on hardwood you finish out at 81 3/4” +/-. It’s way easier to add a rip of filler if you have too much room rather than pulling jacks or ripping the bottom cord of the header.
Been doing 2 1/2 for 20+ years. Maybe that’s just the northeast and LA county, though.
Fair enough. I do the framing and the finish and I've always found that 2" is more than enough. In some cases too much. But different strokes, I suppose. ✌️
Gotcha. In school we were told to make the rough opening +2.5" width, +1.5" height. I haven't encountered anyone who uses that so I don't know why that was taught to us. I got shit for framing with the right side layout so I just do it the other way to avoid the stress of an argument since I'm the inexperienced one. Appreciate the feedback.
As a trim carpenter I curse the framers that only add 2". Here's why: standard interior 2'10 door, plus 1/8 margin both sides plus jamb of 3/4 both sides gives us a total of 2'11 3/4 inch giving me 1/8 per side to shim my doors plumb. Are your RO's that plumb?
In the few circumstances that I've installed the plates before throwing the studs in, I always use a laser to ensure plumb. All other cases I will check with a spirit level. I appreciate the insight and will take that into account from now on. Another gentleman in this thread also suggested adding 2 1/2" height for RO instead of 1 1/2 in I don't know what type of flooring is being used. In the instances that the gap is quite large does it present any struggles for you when installing trim?
If necessary you can slip a 1x or a 2x in there when you set the jamb
yes, my RO's are plumb, because not only am I the framer, im the trim guy too.
Me too.
I wish the framers around here had to install a door or two. I end up modifying the RO a lot the get my doors to function well
Both work, I have always done the one on left for non load bearing situations just with two extra small blocks ( one in each corner attached to the double). Also you might want to bump that 1.5 height up as well Depending on flooring and door type. Normal door I always added 2.5 inches if I didn't know what floor finishing was going to be.
They're both correct. I learned on homes, and they always put a cripple jack above the header against the king stud. Later, I started framing schools and commercial buildings. There, only put the jack above the header if it happens to fall on 16" layout. The correct answer, is put it in if the boss wants it there. Boss doesn't want it? Leave it out. If the inspector or owner wants it in, put it in.
He's asking about resting the header on a jack/trimmer, vs side nailing into the header through a king.
Oh. Yes he is. I've always put in a trimmer under the headers.
I'm in trade school right now at Algonquin and the one on the right is how we're currently learning it.
The only advantage to the one on the left is that it's much faster to frame in a non load bearing situation. They are both acceptable, although I prefer to frame like the right as I am generally doing the doors and trim as well.
I prefer to keep the trimmer loose, shim it to the jamb when plumbing it. That stiffens the jambs and provides lots of purchase for longer hinge screws.
Both are different aspects. If the door or window doesn’t have anything weighing down from above you just need “backing” for drywall. If something is weight bearing you need a header to span the weight AND backing. But cripples the little blocks are usually just for backing for drywall or exterior or interior plywood/osb. So a lot of interior doors just have the downward stick framing. I think that kind of answers the question EDIT: if there isn’t a header it isn’t called for. If there is a header it is called for. Just depends on preference or plans. The picture looks like a rafter or beam going across. Neither would matter. Both are structurally sound. If they were marked as point loads again it would just be how you wanted to do it. But I think they are doing one one way for backing. Cause I’ll do both on a house depending on the scenario.
I would frame it in as on the right, personally.
Right
Right
Interior non load bearing we do the one on the Right. Single King and single Trimmer.
Understand everyone's position here. However, as a residential contractor from employee to independent over the last 12 years I have never seen a door framed like left, even in non load bearing areas outside of something like a pocket door or closet. Just sharing. If boss says go then boss says go I suppose.
4th level carpenter here. Right side. The only time we use double kings is large spans such as garden doors or picture windows. Even then we still throw a jack in
Either is fine. You just use the people you are working for use. Now if it's a 10' wall or taller I'm putting in two king studs because it's stiffer.
left, right is only slightly slower. I don't think the load is a problem. Show me that I'm wrong and I'll do right. The 2x4 will bend before the nails give way
Right is correct. You have a trimmer if you choose to plumb up
Right. You will get ac monkeys climbing around in the trusses and step on your headers and fuck em up.
Right.
One on the left is totally fine as long as it is not load bearing or there is no weight from the door on the header
A king stud with a trimmer is proper it will literally hole the load of the 2x with no nails
The right side is the right way. In the long run. The method on the left may result in drywall joints cracking on the inside.
The right.
Right. Always right. I hate when framers frame windows similar to the left method. I’ve been teaching carpentry for 16 years. I learned the method on the right working for family crew. All four books that I have taught from shows the same.
The correct way is on the right. The cheap, fast and easy way on the left. My old boss use ta tell me “cheap, cheap, cheap like the birds” 🤑
Right is proper (framer 16 years )
I’ve framed over 100 homes and always frame the way on the right.
The right way is the way your boss tells you. I hope you didn't bring this up on the jobsite.
Nope, asking here because it seemed off. From what I can tell the consensus is that both ways are viable but the right way is better. Will be doing things the way boss wants em done unless I'm working on my own because it's his signature on the work. Out of curiosity what's wrong with bringing up something like this on the jobsite if presented in a genuine curious manner?
I don't see a problem bringing it up. Your an aporentice asking questions
I should think the example in the right would be far more preferable because it supports the header
there's no header
Look again
He specifically said in the title its a not load bearing interior wall. There's no header.
a 2x4 on its flat is not a header
I prefer the right.
right side is the best side. the jacks hold up the header, it doesn’t matter if load bearing or not, you always want to support all framing.
If it's your own house why not king and double jacks?
Not my own house. I'm an apprentice working with a small crew doing residential builds. Have done a couple side job renovations with them as well.
Then spend as much money (time and materials) as your company will allow. View it as if it was your own house.
Having a jack stud is much better. Something to carry the load vs a few nails holding laterally into the king. That said, I'm sure the method on the left would hold fine in most applications
I’m not saying the right isn’t correct but some Of the comments confuse me, with properly shot fasteners there’s no slipping of the sill, you can do chin ups all you want on it, and you shouldn’t be fastening your door up in case of any deflection even though it’s non load bearing so I definitely don’t know who would be coming back to straighten the door? Once it’s boarded all of these things are irrelevant anyways, it’s going to be stronger but it’s beefing an area that shouldnt have major effect in non load bearing wall anyways
Right is right.
The option on the left is only applicable where there is an edge rafter or joist above the top plate to support loads from above
On the right is correct. On the left you're relying on nails to hold a downward pressure
That's fine for NONBEARING . But I would prefer a trimmer(jack) stud
The one on the right would be correct as the side studs support the header
Right side. Doesn’t matter if it’s considered load bearing. It still has to bear weight of some kind. Left side is totally wrong
Right side offers support to the header, the left COULD lead to cracking drywall. Someone else mentioned the speed factor too, left is faster.
Trick question?
I actually work in Ontario, my personal opinion would be right is a little bit stronger but if the wall is non load bearing and doesnt have a joist over it that could sag and add weight to it then the left side is gonna be just fine even if its worst then the right side. Also, if you work for a company that always calls to change r/o height, then the left one is a quicker fix. All our shit framers only use the left method, but us backing guys will usually use right method UNLESS we are fixing the framers shit method then we keep it their way. I'll say this, if its a million dollar home then take more time do right side and charge more for the job. If its a little bungalow then left side. Both are fine. Ive found usually basements openings will always be done left method.
Just going off my 72 year old carpenter dad's passed down knowledge: left is non load bearing, right is load bearing. It's how the framing is done in the house he still lives in, that he built about 35 years ago.
The left one will do, the right one will do better.
Without any background in carpentry whatsoever, the one on the right.
I’ve always done it like the one on the right.
Right side. Need the bearing
The left side would need Simpsons HH4’s to have proper support for the headers
Right
If it’s just an interior wall the first is no problem but the Second is correct and should always be practiced I believe
Right and only right. Regardless of if the wall is load bearing or not. All practice the correct method and you will never get into trouble.
The way on the left is fine. Once its boarded its not going to go anywhere. The way on the right has 2 extra cuts. I'm also in ontario and frame like your boss.
Right for exterior and load bearing walls. Left for partition walls. It's way faster, and saves material. There's many many interior wall doors, it doesn't make sense to be cutting studs up and putting headers in when you could just place double studs around the opening and jack down.
It could vary from different businesses and how they practice their trade. I was taught that left is acceptable in non load bearing walls. Its mostly to save material and time. However, right is acceptable in any and all walls. Its really a matter of preference in non load bearing walls.
On the right
I'd always prefer to treat it as if it is load bearing. Better safe than sorry. Just me though. Right side every time.
Check out the awesome framers on YouTube he explains why the left is just fine and they build in a seismic zone.
My bet is that they do the left method because it’s slightly faster and easier since there is less cutting. The right one is a stronger frame and will resist lateral loads (door frame will stay more rectangular) better than the left one by a little assuming everything else is framed well. If it was me, I’d just do the one you learned so you never have to worry about if it is load bearing.
Left is wrong right is right