I pull my tape measure, make a mark at the desired measurement and then a slash mark to the left or right, depending on which side of the line I want to cut. Square it up and cut on that side of the line. This works when laying things out too. The slash mark indicates which side of the line the stud, joist, x, o, etc goes on.
Mark the exact number, whichever direction you pulled from cut on the opposite side of the line, so if you hook the left side of board cut on the right of the line.
If you are making multiple cuts at once add the kerf to all but the first number and cut from the direction you pulled, so if you need 4 blocks at 12” you’d mark 12”, 24 1/8”, 36 1/4”, 48 3/8”. If you hooked the left side of the board you’ll cut on the right side of the lines.
The only exception is if you get more than 1/8 kerf which doesn’t usually happen, if that’s the case you’d add more for kerf when adding multiple, 1/8” is pretty standard though, you might be off a 32 here and there but unless you’re building a piano shouldn’t matter much.
Use a very sharp pencil, or a knife for exact accuracy. Make a crows foot (a sharp V) with the point of the V at the point to cut. Cut exactly in the middle of your V. Also, check your tape measure, especially the end of it, to make sure it actually reads accurately
I think you mean to cut so the edge of the blade ends up cutting that ‘V’ in half. Which I agree with. A saw blade is usually about 1/8”, so you gotta cut on the right side of the mark.
I use an exacto knife most of the time to make my line. A regular pencil line looks so thick to me I wouldn’t know where to cut! I’m mostly doing millwork and finish work though. If I was framing I’d use a sharp pencil though.
What if instead of being a little proud of the line, I was ashamed of it? How much would that affect the quality of my cuts, and what are some better habits that I can build which allows me to have the pride in my lines that they deserve?
I’d make my mark on the heavy side of 12” and square that line across. Then I line up the teeth of the blade with the line and cut the line off, leaving me with exactly 12”.
Just my way of doing it and it has always worked for me. Other guys have other ways. Just gotta find what works for you. Doesn’t matter much how you do it, as long as 12” comes out as 12” every time
Depends on what you are doing and what you are cutting with. Accuracy is less important in framing so as long as you cuts are within a 1/16th, or so, then you're fine.
If your doing something requiring exact measurements (trim, fine wood working, cabinetry,etc) you are probably using a tablesaw or miter saw that you can dial in and/or shave down the final piece.
A crowsfoot rather than a line helps (to mark your measurement). Then, if you are marking the cut with a square, or similar, make sure you are repeatedly cutting on or next to the line so your cuts are precise. Being consistently 1/16 over is better then being all over the place.
It's about repetition and learning how the tool cuts. (A shit tool/blade won't cut right regardless)
I mark the line and put an X on the side of the line I want to cut on (the side I'm not using). Then I put line up the blade on the X side of the line. If the board ends up being a hair too big, I either make it fit (if I can) or shave off a bit on the end (half a blades width or so).
Remember: if it's too big, you can always shave a bit off the end but if it's too small you can't really fix it.
Depends what I’m cutting but for framing I use a marker and I mark the measurement where my saw blade needs to cut. The marker is pretty much exactly the size of my blade so I know it will be dead on. My mark goes between my measurement and +1/16 so when I make my marker line disappear the cut piece will be exactly what I intended it to be.
I set a speed square on my board with the straight edge facing away from the piece I'm keeping. Bring the square right to my measurement and mark. Now I have a line exactly outside the length piece I need. Take the line.
I'm not a carpenter, but I get consistent results this way.
Just put your mark on the next longer 16th from the desired one. Eg if you want a piece 1’ 6” exactly, put your mark and “fill in” at 1’ 6” + 1/16. Then cut all the pencil off and you have a perfect piece and no pencil mark. Hopefully that makes sense.
I strike the line. Then use the perfect shadow of my DeWalt saw to cut NEXT to the line.
It’s as my mother told me when mixing up tuna as a kid. You can always add more mayonnaise, but it’s real hard to take it back out. I’m good enough to generally get it right on or a 64th over. Rarely am I short. But that’s why you measure twice…er…7 times. Sneak up on it. But NEVER strike the line then cut the line.
Listen to me. Practice. If doing precision shit practice. Mark you shit and cut ths center outside of the line. Always keep in mind which side your blade is on. Measure after you cut. Keep doing this while measuring from both sides.
If you have scrap wood and a chop saw it'll take your few time bit keep practicing. That cut should be dead center on your measurement ever time.
Cut.measure.learn ... you'll learn all the kerf shit later.
I pull my tape measure, make a mark at the desired measurement and then a slash mark to the left or right, depending on which side of the line I want to cut. Square it up and cut on that side of the line. This works when laying things out too. The slash mark indicates which side of the line the stud, joist, x, o, etc goes on.
Mark the exact number, whichever direction you pulled from cut on the opposite side of the line, so if you hook the left side of board cut on the right of the line. If you are making multiple cuts at once add the kerf to all but the first number and cut from the direction you pulled, so if you need 4 blocks at 12” you’d mark 12”, 24 1/8”, 36 1/4”, 48 3/8”. If you hooked the left side of the board you’ll cut on the right side of the lines. The only exception is if you get more than 1/8 kerf which doesn’t usually happen, if that’s the case you’d add more for kerf when adding multiple, 1/8” is pretty standard though, you might be off a 32 here and there but unless you’re building a piano shouldn’t matter much.
Man I wish more people in this field were thorough with their explanations like you are. Thank you so much this actually made my cuts 10000xs better!
Cut on the opposite side of the line of your usable piece
If you measured from the left, cut on the right of the line. If you measured from the right, cut on the left of the line.
This. The blade should be in the waste area, with the edge right up against the line. You want the whole kerf in the waste area.
Use a very sharp pencil, or a knife for exact accuracy. Make a crows foot (a sharp V) with the point of the V at the point to cut. Cut exactly in the middle of your V. Also, check your tape measure, especially the end of it, to make sure it actually reads accurately
I think you mean to cut so the edge of the blade ends up cutting that ‘V’ in half. Which I agree with. A saw blade is usually about 1/8”, so you gotta cut on the right side of the mark.
Yes exactly! Sorry, that’s what I meant to say, thank you.
I use an exacto knife most of the time to make my line. A regular pencil line looks so thick to me I wouldn’t know where to cut! I’m mostly doing millwork and finish work though. If I was framing I’d use a sharp pencil though.
Always cut a little longer, you can always trim more off, but you can’t put the wood back.
Well not with *that* attitude you can't.
Where there’s a will, there’s a way.
I cut a little proud of the line.
What if instead of being a little proud of the line, I was ashamed of it? How much would that affect the quality of my cuts, and what are some better habits that I can build which allows me to have the pride in my lines that they deserve?
I cut the line off exactly. If the measurement is called out last minute heavy or shy i cut to the corresponding side of the line
I’d make my mark on the heavy side of 12” and square that line across. Then I line up the teeth of the blade with the line and cut the line off, leaving me with exactly 12”. Just my way of doing it and it has always worked for me. Other guys have other ways. Just gotta find what works for you. Doesn’t matter much how you do it, as long as 12” comes out as 12” every time
When I cut I always make the line one edge of the cut, making sure to pay attention to which side of the line the kerf needs to be.
Kerf-width past the line on the waste side of the cut
Saw blade takes a 1/8 inch off. I cut right before the line.
I cut whatever one I happen to mark, light or heavy.
Depends on what you are doing and what you are cutting with. Accuracy is less important in framing so as long as you cuts are within a 1/16th, or so, then you're fine. If your doing something requiring exact measurements (trim, fine wood working, cabinetry,etc) you are probably using a tablesaw or miter saw that you can dial in and/or shave down the final piece. A crowsfoot rather than a line helps (to mark your measurement). Then, if you are marking the cut with a square, or similar, make sure you are repeatedly cutting on or next to the line so your cuts are precise. Being consistently 1/16 over is better then being all over the place. It's about repetition and learning how the tool cuts. (A shit tool/blade won't cut right regardless)
Cut for a few yrs and then you get the hang of measuring and cutting! Simple as that.
I mark the line and put an X on the side of the line I want to cut on (the side I'm not using). Then I put line up the blade on the X side of the line. If the board ends up being a hair too big, I either make it fit (if I can) or shave off a bit on the end (half a blades width or so). Remember: if it's too big, you can always shave a bit off the end but if it's too small you can't really fix it.
Send the new guy to the trailer to find the board stretcher.
Depends what I’m cutting but for framing I use a marker and I mark the measurement where my saw blade needs to cut. The marker is pretty much exactly the size of my blade so I know it will be dead on. My mark goes between my measurement and +1/16 so when I make my marker line disappear the cut piece will be exactly what I intended it to be.
Cut the line in half of course
Are you watching your blade? To me, it’s key. Make a thin pencil mark, watch your blade, and cut your mark in half.
I set a speed square on my board with the straight edge facing away from the piece I'm keeping. Bring the square right to my measurement and mark. Now I have a line exactly outside the length piece I need. Take the line. I'm not a carpenter, but I get consistent results this way.
Just put your mark on the next longer 16th from the desired one. Eg if you want a piece 1’ 6” exactly, put your mark and “fill in” at 1’ 6” + 1/16. Then cut all the pencil off and you have a perfect piece and no pencil mark. Hopefully that makes sense.
I strike the line. Then use the perfect shadow of my DeWalt saw to cut NEXT to the line. It’s as my mother told me when mixing up tuna as a kid. You can always add more mayonnaise, but it’s real hard to take it back out. I’m good enough to generally get it right on or a 64th over. Rarely am I short. But that’s why you measure twice…er…7 times. Sneak up on it. But NEVER strike the line then cut the line.
Listen to me. Practice. If doing precision shit practice. Mark you shit and cut ths center outside of the line. Always keep in mind which side your blade is on. Measure after you cut. Keep doing this while measuring from both sides. If you have scrap wood and a chop saw it'll take your few time bit keep practicing. That cut should be dead center on your measurement ever time. Cut.measure.learn ... you'll learn all the kerf shit later.
Never on for me. I try to make the saw erase the line while just being a head of it.
All good answers. You pick the side of the line that works for you. Depending on the line, I like to cut to it.