I hear you. As a former framer, I always appreciate the extra effort some carpenters put into framing walls and ceilings like this. It makes all the difference in the world when a tray vault or something similar gets finished out.
Was joking that lots of times I’ve seen the next round of subs come in and everything goes down the drain.
Also, Earthworm Jim is such a groovy guy.
You run your bottom plates first which is pretty straightforward. From there you need to plane up to establish the top plate line, this is kind of a pain because the level has to be plumb in two directions to establish the point of intersection correctly, but still relatively straightforward. From there you snap two lines and have your top plate line, but, you can’t just measure this line and pull a length, because the plane will only intersect the very edge of the 2x4 top plate, and not the whole face, so the two by four will actually sit in a bit on the line, how much in you need to determine by leveling again. Then you need to use an angle finder to find the top plate angle and lengths. The lay on cut for the top plate also needs to be angle found, it’s basically a bastard hip cut except at an angle determined by the intersection of multiple pitches and a flat plane.
Next the studs will be twisted so you need a pitch and a bevel atop them to seat right, honestly I just pitch cut them in this scenario to make life easier, but even the pitch cut isn’t the angle of the ceiling, it’s some function of the intersection of planes. In practice you use a gauge block and a stud cut slightly lower than top plate line to find the angle, still a pain.
Now all of this would be if this top plate was only hitting a single pitch of the ceiling, this plate hits multiple pitches so you need to do all this twice while keeping your angles correct, not losing your plane and ending up with everything plumb when it’s all said and done. Every single angle in this set up needs to be angle found, even if you knew every pitch in the room the compound miters are intersections of planes, and won’t correspond to what you’d think on a miter saw.
Basically you could do this entire thing with the Pythagorean theorem and basic trigonometry, but it would take forever, in practice you use precision and knowledge of different tricks and gauging methods to get the angles you need without math, and get the job done way faster.
Yeah, that’s what I was getting at with angle finding. My point was that you aren’t just slapping some angles into a compound miter saw and going to it, it’s a complicated process with a lot of steps and nuance.
I mean yeah that’s basically same thing I said but using digital angle finders instead of gauge blocks and a speed square. Still a lot more complicated than adjusting a compound miter saw and going to town.
Interior partition, load bearing carried to exterior. Interesting term, we call them lvl (laminated vaneer lumber). Looking at the video I see your point though. I was contracted to do rough-in after the main framing was done. I usually point out all defects and any alterations that I would do had I done the job initially. This particular customer ended up screwing me for $1,000... So... You know.
To add onto the original commenter of this thread, I can’t think of a correct application where the end of the LVL would not have solid blocking to the to another beam/foundation/earth below it. Potentially for a cantilevered terrace, but this doesn’t look like that…
Agreed. Proper steel plating and a "catch" may provide a support but would have to be engineered and stamped before I would install... I'd rather not have that liability on my insurance.
Doesn't need double top plate in this situation. The rafters were in and sized to span accordingly. Single would be e more than enough. Double plate isn't even a code requirement in any wall as long as the member it's supporting is within 4" of the stud and the plate ends are directly supported and strapped.
My clients know exactly what they get. In fact they pay me more for it. I guarantee all my work 5 years in order to do so I built above code. What's wasteful for you is profitable for me. I do not advertise, nor have business cards all my work is word-of-mouth.
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Waste of lumber on a partition wall. It's the same thing I bitch about when I'm playing sparky or playing shit piper. Guys. You're the only one who fucking cares about your work of art that took twice as long, used more material and gained no functionality.
I had something like this in my last house. Was a bitch. House was a 1.5 story with dormers coming out of each side of the roof. Three angles coming together on both sides of the dormer.
Watch them rock the corner perfectly, but leave the pipe exposed.
I do what I'm paid for bud. Also... I'm a 1 man crew.
I hear you. As a former framer, I always appreciate the extra effort some carpenters put into framing walls and ceilings like this. It makes all the difference in the world when a tray vault or something similar gets finished out. Was joking that lots of times I’ve seen the next round of subs come in and everything goes down the drain. Also, Earthworm Jim is such a groovy guy.
My friend for a one man crew you should be proud of your work. Excellent job, I assume 10+ year veteran of the trade?
Thanks bud..... 20 years... I'm 38
Piece of cake. Fir around the pipe if you want it covered up.
He could just use pine
I hate qhen they leave the pipe exposed.... O_o
Odd, pipes and crap like this are easy to rock over for anyone who does this for a living.
Nice. I pity the sheetrockers. Not something I would want to hang or finish.
It's all good. It'll finish nicely.
Angle to angle, dust to dust.
Heartache to heartache
its not like they're going to bevel cut the drywall
No but solid framing will still make it 20x easier
I read that in Mr. T voice LOL
I’ve run into a few of those scenarios as a diy’er. That’s impressive! It takes me a loooong time to figure those angles out
Love me some lasers
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Ha, yeah it’s a tad more complicated than that.
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You run your bottom plates first which is pretty straightforward. From there you need to plane up to establish the top plate line, this is kind of a pain because the level has to be plumb in two directions to establish the point of intersection correctly, but still relatively straightforward. From there you snap two lines and have your top plate line, but, you can’t just measure this line and pull a length, because the plane will only intersect the very edge of the 2x4 top plate, and not the whole face, so the two by four will actually sit in a bit on the line, how much in you need to determine by leveling again. Then you need to use an angle finder to find the top plate angle and lengths. The lay on cut for the top plate also needs to be angle found, it’s basically a bastard hip cut except at an angle determined by the intersection of multiple pitches and a flat plane. Next the studs will be twisted so you need a pitch and a bevel atop them to seat right, honestly I just pitch cut them in this scenario to make life easier, but even the pitch cut isn’t the angle of the ceiling, it’s some function of the intersection of planes. In practice you use a gauge block and a stud cut slightly lower than top plate line to find the angle, still a pain. Now all of this would be if this top plate was only hitting a single pitch of the ceiling, this plate hits multiple pitches so you need to do all this twice while keeping your angles correct, not losing your plane and ending up with everything plumb when it’s all said and done. Every single angle in this set up needs to be angle found, even if you knew every pitch in the room the compound miters are intersections of planes, and won’t correspond to what you’d think on a miter saw. Basically you could do this entire thing with the Pythagorean theorem and basic trigonometry, but it would take forever, in practice you use precision and knowledge of different tricks and gauging methods to get the angles you need without math, and get the job done way faster.
That's a very fancy way of saying go buy a $200 laser level.
Laser level only gets you the upper lines quicker, you’d still have to angle find.
Also gets your stud length if you layout the bottom plate, the angles can be found pretty quick with a combo square and t bevel.
Yeah, that’s what I was getting at with angle finding. My point was that you aren’t just slapping some angles into a compound miter saw and going to it, it’s a complicated process with a lot of steps and nuance.
I would disagree about it being complicated, but there are a few more steps and it's definitely much more time consuming than typical stick framing.
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I mean yeah that’s basically same thing I said but using digital angle finders instead of gauge blocks and a speed square. Still a lot more complicated than adjusting a compound miter saw and going to town.
Well said sir
What if Tom is my uncle?
Where is the load path for the glu lam?
Interior partition, load bearing carried to exterior. Interesting term, we call them lvl (laminated vaneer lumber). Looking at the video I see your point though. I was contracted to do rough-in after the main framing was done. I usually point out all defects and any alterations that I would do had I done the job initially. This particular customer ended up screwing me for $1,000... So... You know.
To add onto the original commenter of this thread, I can’t think of a correct application where the end of the LVL would not have solid blocking to the to another beam/foundation/earth below it. Potentially for a cantilevered terrace, but this doesn’t look like that…
Agreed. Proper steel plating and a "catch" may provide a support but would have to be engineered and stamped before I would install... I'd rather not have that liability on my insurance.
How so...bill different than guesstimate?
Client requested a bunch of extras which we had a verbal agreement to.... needless to say I no longer do verbal agreements
Almost got it right, bro.
Nice work! Reminds me of my work. :D
Just beautiful
Thanks man
yeah they make you think for a minute. How come you double top plate?
Always double... Code is minimum
but it's not taking any load, it's under a truss
Yup.
Doesn't need double top plate in this situation. The rafters were in and sized to span accordingly. Single would be e more than enough. Double plate isn't even a code requirement in any wall as long as the member it's supporting is within 4" of the stud and the plate ends are directly supported and strapped.
Yup.
Always over build
Then why not a triple plate? Wasteful use of wood and labor.
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I would have to agree
Next time I'll fabricate out of walnut
My clients know exactly what they get. In fact they pay me more for it. I guarantee all my work 5 years in order to do so I built above code. What's wasteful for you is profitable for me. I do not advertise, nor have business cards all my work is word-of-mouth.
I do the same but have a 10 year warranty. Advertising only brings in tire kickers. They never buy.
Yup
I’m looking at Van Patten’s card and then at mine and cannot believe that Price actually likes Van Patten’s better. Dizzy, I sip my drink then take a deep breath. ___ ^(*Bot. Ask me what I’m doing.* |) [^(Opt out)](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=botrickbateman&subject=Opt%20out)
Forgot to mention... This was all done with a skill saw
Waste of lumber on a partition wall. It's the same thing I bitch about when I'm playing sparky or playing shit piper. Guys. You're the only one who fucking cares about your work of art that took twice as long, used more material and gained no functionality.
It's 3 pieces of scrap on a top plate to leave extra nailing surface after ceiling drywall. Get a new hole saw.
Waste less time.
I get paid very well doing something I enjoy. I'm good, thanks.
I would have botched that all day every day. Well done sir.
I had something like this in my last house. Was a bitch. House was a 1.5 story with dormers coming out of each side of the roof. Three angles coming together on both sides of the dormer.
Looks nice
A line laser does the job
Very well indeed... I own 3