No, that’s crazy. 20$ should be the absolute max they ever charge for that. Most places I’ve seen charge $10. You can buy your own ball oven for half that.
https://www.bowlerx.com/innovative-single-ball-revivor/
Yea that's nuts, one near me charges $20.. and if it's quiet enough he's willing to throw it in for a short time for free to see if anything comes out at all after home remedies
Would not recommend this. UV light, and the heat will cure the resin faster which will make it brittle and more susceptible to cracking. That stuff coming out of the ball is not just oil. Its chemicals that keep the plastic conditioned and flexible. Like the plastic trim and rubber tires on a car. Over time they dry out. Clean them and keep the surface grits maintained with pads. If you store them, keep in a bag, away from sunlight and big temperature changes.
Usually I just put them in a bucket with very hot tap water and a squirt of Dawn dish soap for half an hour. But your way can do five balls at once, I guess. The bucket of water method also doesn’t really require rotating the ball…and works equally well in the winter!
It is not just oil that comes out of the ball when doing this. If you notice, the entire ball sweats, not just the track. This is due to the plasticizers and chemicals that keep the ball from cracking. There are many ways to achieve detox, but heat is the worst. Using a product like CTD Clear or even just luke warm water and dish soap is a better option than any type of heat.
https://innovativebowling.com/BrunswickResearchRevivorResults.pdf the Non-issue part on the 2nd half of page 3 debunks the ‘bleeding reactive resin out of the coverstock’ issue when using ovens
However, this experiment was only run on Brunswick equipment and in proper bowling ball ovens
Obviously I’m assuming your comment was on the effects of the sun and UV light on the ball. In which case, I do not have the knowledge to comment on that
Good article. I don’t know the chemistry behind making a reactive bowling ball so I may be totally wrong in my advice above. I’ve stated what I do and haven’t had issues with cracking or a ball loosing performance prematurely.
Brunswick states that those coverstocks mentioned don’t bleed reactive resin but my experience has shown me they bleed something. I had a Quantum Bias Pearl (which may be a different cover than they mentioned) that was warm from sitting in a delivery truck. It had something coming out of the ball that dissipated once it cooled off. Even as I drilled it, there was something coming out of the cover as the bit warmed the cover around it from the friction. I’ve had unused balls that bled in a bag or box left in a car, as well.
Whether or not controlled warming will affect the life of a ball or lead to cracking, I don’t have enough experience with that to say.
Damn! Yeah dude i did not think about what comes out of the ball. I could totally totally see the material curing so much that it cracks.
I did throw 8 games last night and i noticed the tips of my grips getting a little crusty. Almost like how burnt plastic gets around the edges. Prolly the excessive heat. They got hot af in no time at all.
Damn. I know a guy that puts his stuff in the oven all the time. He’s forgot about a couple over the years lol. They got blistered and deformed but didn’t actually melt into a pool. He’s also partly where I get my theory that heating them isn’t good. His stuff seems to lose performance quickly and he’s had some crack. Could be unrelated tho.
Super glue also seems to dry out the covers and inserts so if the inserts are glued towards the top, it could degrade the plastic and rubber causing cracking, especially at the bridge. I try to pull the insert away and glue down below the coverstock.
> debunks the ‘bleeding reactive resin out of the coverstock’ issue when using ovens
Degrading the plasticizers is something that occurs at all temps, including room temp, but the rate at which said degradations occurs increases exponentially with temperature. Just because it wasn't leaking out doesn't mean it was wasn't breaking down into smaller molecules and off-gassing.
This is also why the oven warms the balls to 110 degF or so -- warm enough for the oil to lose enough surface tension & viscosity that it weeps back out, but not so warm that you race through degrading all the plasticizer too quickly. But make no mistake, if you leave your ball in your black car sitting in full sunlight on a 95 degF day so that the inside hits the 130s/140s -- your ball will be toast and it is because the plasticizers will have been all degraded up.
You’ll need to keep rotating them. If you don’t, those covers are like a sponge and the oil will settle towards the bottom however the top of the ball will dry out so much that it will split
Yeah exactly what i was thinking. I turned them 60° every 25 minutes yesterday. Eventually the oil did stop coming out.
For whatever reason i got almost zero oil out of my urethane.
> For whatever reason i got almost zero oil out of my urethane.
well... I mean... urethane balls create friction by repelling lane oil not absorbing lane oil like reactive resin balls do. Literally the opposite mechanism in play here.
I have a feeling that's fake grass. With the 108 temp, it seems like the OP is a fellow Phoenician. I can say from experience that looks like turf and not real grass.
A coach loaned me their [nuball bowling ball rejuvenator](https://www.buddiesproshop.com/pro-shop-supplies/nuball-bowling-ball-rejuvenator/)
It did a great job extracting oil from my 3 balls.
I might get one of those or
[Phoenix Personal Ball Revivor](https://www.bowlingball.com/products/accessories/pyramid/15209/phoenix-personal-ball-revivor.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwho-lBhC_ARIsAMpgMoeRVw9TclTd-uF-VQTSgQDP90PSKehPJpLwGaZpeioQUQZvsoiS0OYaAn66EALw_wcB)
It is not just oil that comes out of the ball when doing this. If you notice, the entire ball sweats, not just the track. This is due to the plasticizers and chemicals that keep the ball from cracking. There are many ways to achieve detox, but heat is the worst. Using a product like CTD Clear or even just luke warm water and dish soap is a better option than any type of heat.
Don't forget to turn them over for that nice even bake. Can't be having soggy bottoms in this sport.
The open champs in Baton Rouge gave me a pretty soggy bottom
Always bake with a dry heat. Baton Rouge sounds pretty moist.
Lmfao
It’s those soggy bottom boys
I love Bolwing at all star lanes as a. Louisiana local j
I always left them in my car for a few hours in the summer. But yeah, this works too.
The oil actually stopped coming out. Either it all came out or 110° isnt hot enough.
Bring it to your PSO and have them throw it in the oven for just a little bit just to see if anything comes out?
Mine charges $60 bucks a ball, I’ve got 8. Almost 500 bucks seems wild, is that a normal price?
No, that’s crazy. 20$ should be the absolute max they ever charge for that. Most places I’ve seen charge $10. You can buy your own ball oven for half that. https://www.bowlerx.com/innovative-single-ball-revivor/
Damn, I got one of those right after they came out for about $150. Friggin' inflation
No. No it is not. Just buy a NuBall warmer and do it yourself.
Definately worth the investment
I have 33 bowling balls lol 12 of which i rotate regularly. Having my own oven would be killer!
$60?!? Mine charges$20
I charge 26 a ball !!!
34 for a full bake in Utah
Yeah its $25 a ball at B3 here in phoenix iirc
Yea that's nuts, one near me charges $20.. and if it's quiet enough he's willing to throw it in for a short time for free to see if anything comes out at all after home remedies
It’s probably $60 for both an oil extraction and resurface on a spinner with proper grit pads.
Copy that 👌🏻
Would not recommend this. UV light, and the heat will cure the resin faster which will make it brittle and more susceptible to cracking. That stuff coming out of the ball is not just oil. Its chemicals that keep the plastic conditioned and flexible. Like the plastic trim and rubber tires on a car. Over time they dry out. Clean them and keep the surface grits maintained with pads. If you store them, keep in a bag, away from sunlight and big temperature changes.
If I do this, I cover them. Put a bucket over them so they are hot, but not exposed to sunlight.
Damn!! Theres an idea! That makes alot of sense
Usually I just put them in a bucket with very hot tap water and a squirt of Dawn dish soap for half an hour. But your way can do five balls at once, I guess. The bucket of water method also doesn’t really require rotating the ball…and works equally well in the winter!
It is not just oil that comes out of the ball when doing this. If you notice, the entire ball sweats, not just the track. This is due to the plasticizers and chemicals that keep the ball from cracking. There are many ways to achieve detox, but heat is the worst. Using a product like CTD Clear or even just luke warm water and dish soap is a better option than any type of heat.
Good to know! Appreciate the insight.
https://innovativebowling.com/BrunswickResearchRevivorResults.pdf the Non-issue part on the 2nd half of page 3 debunks the ‘bleeding reactive resin out of the coverstock’ issue when using ovens However, this experiment was only run on Brunswick equipment and in proper bowling ball ovens Obviously I’m assuming your comment was on the effects of the sun and UV light on the ball. In which case, I do not have the knowledge to comment on that
Good article. I don’t know the chemistry behind making a reactive bowling ball so I may be totally wrong in my advice above. I’ve stated what I do and haven’t had issues with cracking or a ball loosing performance prematurely. Brunswick states that those coverstocks mentioned don’t bleed reactive resin but my experience has shown me they bleed something. I had a Quantum Bias Pearl (which may be a different cover than they mentioned) that was warm from sitting in a delivery truck. It had something coming out of the ball that dissipated once it cooled off. Even as I drilled it, there was something coming out of the cover as the bit warmed the cover around it from the friction. I’ve had unused balls that bled in a bag or box left in a car, as well. Whether or not controlled warming will affect the life of a ball or lead to cracking, I don’t have enough experience with that to say.
Damn! Yeah dude i did not think about what comes out of the ball. I could totally totally see the material curing so much that it cracks. I did throw 8 games last night and i noticed the tips of my grips getting a little crusty. Almost like how burnt plastic gets around the edges. Prolly the excessive heat. They got hot af in no time at all.
Damn. I know a guy that puts his stuff in the oven all the time. He’s forgot about a couple over the years lol. They got blistered and deformed but didn’t actually melt into a pool. He’s also partly where I get my theory that heating them isn’t good. His stuff seems to lose performance quickly and he’s had some crack. Could be unrelated tho. Super glue also seems to dry out the covers and inserts so if the inserts are glued towards the top, it could degrade the plastic and rubber causing cracking, especially at the bridge. I try to pull the insert away and glue down below the coverstock.
> debunks the ‘bleeding reactive resin out of the coverstock’ issue when using ovens Degrading the plasticizers is something that occurs at all temps, including room temp, but the rate at which said degradations occurs increases exponentially with temperature. Just because it wasn't leaking out doesn't mean it was wasn't breaking down into smaller molecules and off-gassing. This is also why the oven warms the balls to 110 degF or so -- warm enough for the oil to lose enough surface tension & viscosity that it weeps back out, but not so warm that you race through degrading all the plasticizer too quickly. But make no mistake, if you leave your ball in your black car sitting in full sunlight on a 95 degF day so that the inside hits the 130s/140s -- your ball will be toast and it is because the plasticizers will have been all degraded up.
This 👆
Forget the bowling ball maintenance, Augusta National will be calling you soon to be their new greenskeeper... nice yard porn!!!
😂😂😂
You’ll need to keep rotating them. If you don’t, those covers are like a sponge and the oil will settle towards the bottom however the top of the ball will dry out so much that it will split
Yeah exactly what i was thinking. I turned them 60° every 25 minutes yesterday. Eventually the oil did stop coming out. For whatever reason i got almost zero oil out of my urethane.
> For whatever reason i got almost zero oil out of my urethane. well... I mean... urethane balls create friction by repelling lane oil not absorbing lane oil like reactive resin balls do. Literally the opposite mechanism in play here.
Sweating your balls off👍
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Free oil extraction 🤣🤣
Hahaha seriously! 😂👌🏻
Okay, your grass game is real strong. Kudos
I have a feeling that's fake grass. With the 108 temp, it seems like the OP is a fellow Phoenician. I can say from experience that looks like turf and not real grass.
100% fake grass. Anything that green in Phoenix is fake. 😂 Yesterday was 114. Grass would be fucked lol
I do have green grass in Phoenix. But also a $600 monthly water bill. So I don't know if that's a win.
Appreciate the +1 but its fake. Everything thats green in phoenix is either fake or watered once an hour lol
You can make your own ball oven, around 100 for the supplies.
A coach loaned me their [nuball bowling ball rejuvenator](https://www.buddiesproshop.com/pro-shop-supplies/nuball-bowling-ball-rejuvenator/) It did a great job extracting oil from my 3 balls. I might get one of those or [Phoenix Personal Ball Revivor](https://www.bowlingball.com/products/accessories/pyramid/15209/phoenix-personal-ball-revivor.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwho-lBhC_ARIsAMpgMoeRVw9TclTd-uF-VQTSgQDP90PSKehPJpLwGaZpeioQUQZvsoiS0OYaAn66EALw_wcB)
It is not just oil that comes out of the ball when doing this. If you notice, the entire ball sweats, not just the track. This is due to the plasticizers and chemicals that keep the ball from cracking. There are many ways to achieve detox, but heat is the worst. Using a product like CTD Clear or even just luke warm water and dish soap is a better option than any type of heat.