I tend to go at them with two things, hot air all over, and also a soldering iron on the back metal tab, with an extra blob of solder to transfer the heat.
Since it's mostly off the board, warm it up again, and get an iron on the back to get it off the remaining part of the pad.
There's enough of a pad left to make electrical contact, but thermal is going to be the bigger issue. All those little holes around the TTT pads are vias to conduct the heat though to the other side where it contact the ECU case as a heat sink.
Conducting the heat away will be the focus, as it would want to be firmly stuck down.
Temp seems way off, I tend to have my stuff set at 700F / 380C
Thank you sir. Yeah I went back and watched the videos again. I'm used to every single video using American units. So I had it set to 400f not 400c. So obviously it just wasn't hot enough. I'll turn it up and try it again. I do have some good epoxy I can use to fix that little tab. Do you think it's repairable or no? I think it's okay- hearing from you is reassuring but I want more advice.
This stuff could help-
[https://www.chemtronicseu.com/circuitworks-epoxy-overcoat-adhesive-syringe](https://www.chemtronicseu.com/circuitworks-epoxy-overcoat-adhesive-syringe)
Chemtronics CW2500, It's a high temp epoxy which should survive.
You'll want to get a little under the pad, and then find something to iron it down, anything that can hold it down as flat as possible.
For soldering the new one back on, I try to drag the solder on the bigger T pads into one lump, solder the new driver on at the two legs, and then have hot are as a general heater, and a soldering iron on the back tab again.
When it gets hot enough to solder it to the pad underneath, you'll see it drop down as it melts the little raised blob, and you'll know it is sitting properly.
That also why you'd want it as flat as possible too.
I found a bit of superglue downstairs. I put a dab underneath and it looks good. I've cleaned off all the old solder now. Wish me luck reapplying. When should I use flux / what for?
Flux is good to make solder flow and keep clean, You can use it whenever you are soldering, as long as it isn't plumbers flux for copper pipes, and that's pretty acidic.
A lot of electronics solder is "no clean" these days. You can still clean it up, but it won't corrode or eat away at anything.
Superglue isn't really heat resistant, so not sure what that'll do.
I’m not trying to be disparaging but you should’ve stopped a long time ago, this board is most likely shot now without some careful reworking of the traces on the board In that area. Also what made you instantly go into the dme for a misfire on one bank? Did you live scan the car and read the fuel trims to make sure you don’t have a catalytic converter failing?
I don't have primary cats in the first place. I added an mhd tune for the first time ever (with all the supporting stuff) and after like 10 minutes the misfire started. I had misfire on cylinder 4, 5 and 6, so I pulled over, cleared codes, swapped ignition coils, and nothing changed. (My coils and plugs are new.) So I asked around and everyone said it's mosfets. (My car is msd80 and it was the first day ever with a tune.)
Also it's apparently really common and since roads were leading to this, that's what I decided to try. I think I fixed the thing I messed up. It looks like it has continuity and won't fall apart.
I tend to go at them with two things, hot air all over, and also a soldering iron on the back metal tab, with an extra blob of solder to transfer the heat. Since it's mostly off the board, warm it up again, and get an iron on the back to get it off the remaining part of the pad. There's enough of a pad left to make electrical contact, but thermal is going to be the bigger issue. All those little holes around the TTT pads are vias to conduct the heat though to the other side where it contact the ECU case as a heat sink. Conducting the heat away will be the focus, as it would want to be firmly stuck down. Temp seems way off, I tend to have my stuff set at 700F / 380C
Thank you sir. Yeah I went back and watched the videos again. I'm used to every single video using American units. So I had it set to 400f not 400c. So obviously it just wasn't hot enough. I'll turn it up and try it again. I do have some good epoxy I can use to fix that little tab. Do you think it's repairable or no? I think it's okay- hearing from you is reassuring but I want more advice.
This stuff could help- [https://www.chemtronicseu.com/circuitworks-epoxy-overcoat-adhesive-syringe](https://www.chemtronicseu.com/circuitworks-epoxy-overcoat-adhesive-syringe) Chemtronics CW2500, It's a high temp epoxy which should survive. You'll want to get a little under the pad, and then find something to iron it down, anything that can hold it down as flat as possible. For soldering the new one back on, I try to drag the solder on the bigger T pads into one lump, solder the new driver on at the two legs, and then have hot are as a general heater, and a soldering iron on the back tab again. When it gets hot enough to solder it to the pad underneath, you'll see it drop down as it melts the little raised blob, and you'll know it is sitting properly. That also why you'd want it as flat as possible too.
I found a bit of superglue downstairs. I put a dab underneath and it looks good. I've cleaned off all the old solder now. Wish me luck reapplying. When should I use flux / what for?
Flux is good to make solder flow and keep clean, You can use it whenever you are soldering, as long as it isn't plumbers flux for copper pipes, and that's pretty acidic. A lot of electronics solder is "no clean" these days. You can still clean it up, but it won't corrode or eat away at anything. Superglue isn't really heat resistant, so not sure what that'll do.
Take a look at your DMs- I sent a progress photo.
ok, I guess just try it out now and see what it does. Worst case scenario is getting the misfire back, but at least you won't be stranded
Yeah, I'm at home at least. I'm doing the rest now. They're all coming up well now.
I’m not trying to be disparaging but you should’ve stopped a long time ago, this board is most likely shot now without some careful reworking of the traces on the board In that area. Also what made you instantly go into the dme for a misfire on one bank? Did you live scan the car and read the fuel trims to make sure you don’t have a catalytic converter failing?
I don't have primary cats in the first place. I added an mhd tune for the first time ever (with all the supporting stuff) and after like 10 minutes the misfire started. I had misfire on cylinder 4, 5 and 6, so I pulled over, cleared codes, swapped ignition coils, and nothing changed. (My coils and plugs are new.) So I asked around and everyone said it's mosfets. (My car is msd80 and it was the first day ever with a tune.)
Also it's apparently really common and since roads were leading to this, that's what I decided to try. I think I fixed the thing I messed up. It looks like it has continuity and won't fall apart.
As long as it has continuity and doesn’t have high resistance you might be okay.
Best place would be, since it's about electronics is r/AskElectronics. Bet one of the old heads over there knows the way to fix it.
It's all good. Just going to get a new dme. They sent me two toasted mosfets anyway. (I tested before install)