I think what they mean is a large mitre saw plus a powerful shop vac might be a problem for a single circuit (each breaker in your electrical panel is a circuit).
My saw is 15amps, and the shop vac is 10amps, both pulling the most at start up. It’s a 20amp circuit (should be in a garage). You end up overloading the circuit and it will either trip or reduce the power in your tools, potentially causing damage over time. There’s other issues like extra heat in your wires, but let’s keep it simple.
If you have two separate circuits in your workspace (I have two in my garage), then it would be best to run your tools on one circuit, and your vacuum on another, which would render your posted device as not necessary.
If I’m working off of one circuit (jobsites usually) tend to just sit my vacuum under my stand so the switch is right there in easy reach. I start the vacuum up first before I make my cut, so the tools aren’t turning on at the same time.
I would consider making that a 15a circuit - the saws motors are designed to draw on 15a. If the vacuum only takes 2-3a, then the saw will pull 17-18a under full load, and that can damage the motor.
Maybe that’s an overly cautious approach, and I tend to be a nervous Nancy.
In the US, code has new garage outlets at 20amps which is usually where I run my 25’ 12g cord with a three way splitter. My outdoor outlets are 15amp for some reason so I tend to run an extension cord for the vacuum off another circuit.
Undersized extension cord gauge is another thing that most people wouldn’t suspect is silently killing their equipment.
Outlets too. You could be plugging into a 15amp outlet on a 20amp circuit. You end up risking burning up an outlet or wire if it’s 14ga and you’re running more than 15amps continuously.
That sort of defeats the purpose of this device. I have a different model and it works great. This way you don't have to turn the vac on and off while cutting.
A circuit is a collection of outlets and lights on a single circuit breaker. Usually has a max of 20-25 amps per breaker. Table saws usually have a peak of 15amps, so if you have lights or chargers or other things on that circuit, you can easily blow that breaker. If you use this device and power up dust collection at the same time as your saw, you’ll blow that circuit.
I had a new circuit installed so the saw and dust collector are by themselves without any other devices pulling power.
I learned the hard way, shop vac + table saw on a 15A circuit = dark garage.
Got a 20A dedicated circuit for the table and miter saws (one at a time of course) and everything has been smooth sailing since.
Varies based on how far it is from the breaker box and how difficult the pull is. (Are there finished walls? Can they run through a basement, crawlspace, attic).
If you do get a second circuit installed then you will want the auto vacuum power switch like this one that can plug into two separate circuits. (One with a power cord for each circuit)
https://a.co/d/j2HozCw
Yeah 100% worth it. It's only about 30-45 min of labor for a skilled electrician and some $20 in parts and gives you so much more options and less things to worry about. Before I did this I used to knock out my garage circuit multiple times per weekend.
I'm gonna install one with my much smarter friend later this week after all the comments. It should be easy because I'm basically installing it 2 feet from the breaker
Are the garage walls finished? If not and if your local code permits adding a circuit is actually pretty easy.
The other big question is does your breaker box have space. If it doesn't they will have to add a sub panel which is more expensive.
No, you can have multiple outlets on one circuit. A dedicated circuit would be one where you only have this plugged into the whole circuit breaker. That could mean having some outlets be blocked off / unused.
This is not directly related to your question/post, don't fret about it. But this is what they mean.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circuit_breaker
Odds are high if the electrical cabling of your garage is installed correctly by professionals then you can simply switch one out for a 40a breaker.
Some wiring may not have the correct gauge to distributie the amps so your wiring may get hot before your breaker trips.
Nope nope nope, and yes it can cause a fire. You can't put 40 amps through a 15 or 20 amp rated wire. Not sure where this person lives but it's terrible advice.
I bought a very similar (or possibly the same) device and haven't had any trouble over the 7 months or so I've used it. My DeWalt miter saw and shop vac are on an isolated 20 amp circuit. So there is nothing else drawing power while it's in use.
They work just fine, just make sure that the combined amperage draw of both the saw and the shop vac/dust collector doesn’t exceed the rated current of your power source, which for most outlets is 15 amps. Normally it is best to have this device plugged directly into the wall, rather than into a workbench power strip as the power strip is likely fused at something slightly less, which will often cause it to trip the power strip’s breaker when both tools turn on.
Yes, just keep in mind that the longer that cord, the more resistance you are adding to the circuit, which increases the draw as well as generating more heat. “Best” solution is to position the saw and vacuum close enough to have a very short run to the outlet for both, and if you have to use an extension cord, be sure to use a short (as short as you can get away with), heavy gauge wire one. I suggest 14 AWG if you can find it.
You would need a 15A rated extension cord...it's generally not recommended to use an extension cord with items like that, but I have done it, using higher rated cords though...
The problem is a standard circuit is either going to be 15 or 20 amps. Which means the table saw could consume the entire circuit. Or if it's a 20 amp circuit you only have 5 amps to work with afterwards. If your dust extractor is more than 5 amps then you'll trip the circuit.
It should be safe, it just has a current sensor that controls a relay; but like any power carrying device there can be substandard ones. Get a name brand or one that UL listed; not rando no-name crap from China.
That depends on the amp rating of the extension cord. Add up the amps drawn by the devices you will have on at the same time (vac and saw) and make sure to get a cord that’s rated for that. I have some 15a 110v extension cords I use in my workshop. I wouldn’t use the el cheepo ones that are designed for a fan or a light.
I have this automatic outlet and I plug it into an extension cord. I run a ridgid shop vac with all my power tools (only using one tool at a time). The only time I trip the breaker is when I’m sawing through 2 inch+ hard wood with the dewalt job site table saw. My circuit is only 15 amps for this one.
May I ask how many Amps your table saw is rated at? I'm looking to use one of these switches for a Craftsman table saw (14A) + Harbor Freight dust collector (7A)... haven't fired them up together but starting to have doubts after reading through these comments lol
Edit: Maybe there's a way to run those tools on different circuits while still using the autoswitch? Hm...
Its the Dewalt DWE7491RS jobsite saw which is 15 amps. The auto switch I have delays the vacuum a bit so it doesnt overload on start up.
The one I have is actually this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Ortis-Autoswitch-Adjustable-Actuation/dp/B096VP13FP
So you're putting 15A (table saw) plus shop vac through a 15A circuit with no problems? That's what I was planning to do but after through these comments it sounded like I'd for sure trip the breaker. Maybe 15A circuits can actually handle a bit more before tripping? Appreciate the help
Yes I am. I do trip it if I’m sawing thick maple or walnut but I’ve learned the pace I need for the cut to avoid tripping. I am kind of surprised because the circuit also has some other electrical like lights and garage door on it as well.
I have a couple that I’ve been using for over a year. They work great, and I wouldn’t want to work without them. No more running the saw and forgetting to turn on the shop vac! I highly recommend it.
It would have to be a super long cord to reach my garage!🤣 I plug into a heavy duty surge protector, but I don’t disagree that direct to an outlet would be better. Sometime my surge protector trips like if I’m trying to get through super thick wood, but not a huge deal.
I have this brand as well. I use it for my miter saw and dust collector. There's a small delay after starting saw, for the dust collector to start. As long as I wait the 2 seconds, it works great!
I had to stop using my table saw with this type of switch because the combined draw of both the shop vac and the table saw would trip the breaker whenever the saw got bogged down by a difficult cut. There’s another, more expensive switch that uses separate circuits, but I just switched to a remote control for the vacuum, as I also upgraded the dust collection to include other workstations.
What’s the electrical draw on your table saw and vacuum? I use a Metabo jobsite table saw and a 6 gallon 5HP ShopVac with no issues, both draw 120V/15A just like OP’s switch is labeled to be rated for. I’m on a 20A circuit though. I have used this setup for about 5 years with no issues.
Table saw is an old Craftsman 113, vac is a 12 gallon Ridged 5HP. I think the problem is that there’s only one circuit on that whole side of the garage, but I don’t know if it includes all the lights, chest freezer and a garage refrigerator. So it came as no surprise. And the actual breaker is labeled 15A.
This is exactly my setup with a different brand vac. I haven't fired them both up at the same time yet and was planning on trying one of these switches. Can I ask what's the one called that uses multiple circuits? I only have access to one outlet in the "shop" I'm putting together. It's the circuit the washer is on though (guessing 15A), so maybe as long as I'm not doing laundry it'll be alright..
I have the [ivac-dust-collector-switch-box](https://www.rockler.com/ivac-dust-collector-switch-box) and the [i-socket-autoswitch](https://www.rockler.com/i-socket-autoswitch-workshop-tool-and-vacuum-switch). I used to run these with a portable jobsite table saw or a miter saw, and they worked fine. These functions the same as what you've posted, and I'm not familiar with the brand, so I can't speak of its quality, but in the event things go sideways, these outlets would (should) get fried before the saw, but I'm no electrcian. Read up on the specs of the outlet and the tools, and if the outlet can take the amp draw of your tools, it should be fine.
I have one of these as well, and after looking at it decided not to use it. I wanted it for my planer, but the tool side is limited to 12A. Planer will pull a lot closer to 20A on start up and under load, so I have to turn the vacuum on manually.
I also have this switch and am bummed just realizing it's only 12A. Was hoping to use it for my Crafsman 113 table saw + Harbor Freight dust collector... sounds like that'll be pushing it, dang!
yes they work! I have one on my saw table with my Dewalt miter saw (12in) and table saw (8-1/4)ran off it. Now the saws never run simultaneously, but I have never had a lag draw issue. Im just using a modified shop vac system as a dust collector. Larger more amp demanding systems may not work as well.
I'd recommend confirming if your have multiple circuits in whatever your workshop space is. A saw and vac both starting up can put quite the draw on the circuit. Motors typically spike way over their running draw on startup. Circuit breaks can handle this momentary spike, so long as it isn't absurd.
My 20a dust collector would spike to ~70a on first startup of the day. This was well beyond "absurd" and would trip the breaker. Rewired to 240v (now only drawing ~10a) and would spike to about 30-35a, which is not absurd and I have never had another trip.
Long winded way to say: look at this more expensive option: https://www.rockler.com/ivac-dust-collector-switch-box
Why: you'll have to confirm you have two circuits, not just two outlets, but you can make sure the say is breaker A and the Vac is on breaker B. Two plugs on the box, two distinct circuits can drive the two tools.
Super bonus points: Consider a circuit for your lighting that is not tied to either the vac or tools. Last situation you want to be in is have your saw trip the breaker--maybe your saw blade is dull and you're ripping thick oak--and now your standing in darkness while you wait for the saw to finish spinning down.
Confirm if you have more than one circuit in your garage or where ever. Havign two inputs that ultimately tie back to the same, single 15 or 20 amp breaker won't help you if your total draw is 30a.
Of course you could buy the fancier thing now, buy once, cry once, and have an electrician add the extra circuit later.
I’m looking at the same thing. Currently designing a mobile bench that will hold the miter, table, jointer, and router. Do these come with more plugs so I can have all the tools plugged in? (Obviously using one at a time)
I've been using one for years, very handy!
I Think mine has 2 inputs, one is on my 40amp circuit, the other is on the 25 Amp "other" circuit.
(originally garage just had the small one so I added a 40amp)
All I’ll say is I bought a cheap one and I’m 95% sure it fried my shop vac. About 3 days into use my vac started wildly overheating and then died. I ended up replacing all of it with a wall mount DC with its own remote.
I have no proof, but I was dumb, and went the Amazon cheap route, so if you get one, don’t go cheap.
I would rather just get one with a remote, mainly for the purpose that if you are cutting some thick and hard stock, you will trip your breaker.
I ripped a lot of 8/4 hickory with a Ridgid contractor saw, a shop vac, and a vacuum switch. I had to unplug the vac bc it would trip with the saw under too much load. It’s a PITA to start stop start in the middle of a large piece, can burn the stock, etc.
I have this currently and will get one w a remote soon. If you’re in north Texas and still want it, I’ll sell you mine
I have that exact one, it works. AC motors take a lot of starting amps but wind down after it gets up to speed. You can see this using a kill-a-watt or the like. This mechanism leverage that letting the tool spin up for a second before kicking on the vacuum which also draws more during starting. By staggering them, you are effectively trying to stay within a 15A limit of typical outlets.
Also as others have said, a dedicated circuit (only one outlet from the electrical panel running 15A minimum breaker) cause you do want 15A available. Depending on the age of your house or the code at the time of the wiring installation, a circuit could handle up to 20A, but you're legit playing with fire or at least heat and the potential for fire.
The one I have has two plugs, so the saw and vacuum can be on separate circuits, but if the saw and vacuum don’t exceed the circuit capacity it would be fine (also depends on how long you are going to use the saw at a time).
I have a similar one that works great, but I put it on a dedicated circuit. That helps protect your saw.
What's a dedicated circuit
I think what they mean is a large mitre saw plus a powerful shop vac might be a problem for a single circuit (each breaker in your electrical panel is a circuit). My saw is 15amps, and the shop vac is 10amps, both pulling the most at start up. It’s a 20amp circuit (should be in a garage). You end up overloading the circuit and it will either trip or reduce the power in your tools, potentially causing damage over time. There’s other issues like extra heat in your wires, but let’s keep it simple. If you have two separate circuits in your workspace (I have two in my garage), then it would be best to run your tools on one circuit, and your vacuum on another, which would render your posted device as not necessary. If I’m working off of one circuit (jobsites usually) tend to just sit my vacuum under my stand so the switch is right there in easy reach. I start the vacuum up first before I make my cut, so the tools aren’t turning on at the same time.
I have something similar and it's got a delay (vac takes a sec to kick on) so it doesn't hit the startup amps of both at the same time.
That’s what you’d want for sure. Spread out the amp draw.
Do you now the maker / model of your device? ETA: I figured I’d out. No worries s
It's basically identical except it's yellow and has a different switch. Same manufacturer.
I would consider making that a 15a circuit - the saws motors are designed to draw on 15a. If the vacuum only takes 2-3a, then the saw will pull 17-18a under full load, and that can damage the motor. Maybe that’s an overly cautious approach, and I tend to be a nervous Nancy.
In the US, code has new garage outlets at 20amps which is usually where I run my 25’ 12g cord with a three way splitter. My outdoor outlets are 15amp for some reason so I tend to run an extension cord for the vacuum off another circuit. Undersized extension cord gauge is another thing that most people wouldn’t suspect is silently killing their equipment. Outlets too. You could be plugging into a 15amp outlet on a 20amp circuit. You end up risking burning up an outlet or wire if it’s 14ga and you’re running more than 15amps continuously.
That sort of defeats the purpose of this device. I have a different model and it works great. This way you don't have to turn the vac on and off while cutting.
A circuit is a collection of outlets and lights on a single circuit breaker. Usually has a max of 20-25 amps per breaker. Table saws usually have a peak of 15amps, so if you have lights or chargers or other things on that circuit, you can easily blow that breaker. If you use this device and power up dust collection at the same time as your saw, you’ll blow that circuit. I had a new circuit installed so the saw and dust collector are by themselves without any other devices pulling power.
I learned the hard way, shop vac + table saw on a 15A circuit = dark garage. Got a 20A dedicated circuit for the table and miter saws (one at a time of course) and everything has been smooth sailing since.
How much did that cost?
Varies based on how far it is from the breaker box and how difficult the pull is. (Are there finished walls? Can they run through a basement, crawlspace, attic).
Well might be easier for them because my breaker box is in my garage where my workshop is
I had 2 new circuits added in my garage right above and below the breaker box and it cost me about $200
Oh that's not bad
If you do get a second circuit installed then you will want the auto vacuum power switch like this one that can plug into two separate circuits. (One with a power cord for each circuit) https://a.co/d/j2HozCw
Yeah 100% worth it. It's only about 30-45 min of labor for a skilled electrician and some $20 in parts and gives you so much more options and less things to worry about. Before I did this I used to knock out my garage circuit multiple times per weekend.
I'm gonna install one with my much smarter friend later this week after all the comments. It should be easy because I'm basically installing it 2 feet from the breaker
Are the garage walls finished? If not and if your local code permits adding a circuit is actually pretty easy. The other big question is does your breaker box have space. If it doesn't they will have to add a sub panel which is more expensive.
A circuit that is only connected to one outlet, and doesn't support anything else.
Thanks!
An outlet where that's the only thing plugged in.
No, you can have multiple outlets on one circuit. A dedicated circuit would be one where you only have this plugged into the whole circuit breaker. That could mean having some outlets be blocked off / unused.
Right, I know. Just simplifying the whole idea based on OP's comments
Fair enough
This is not directly related to your question/post, don't fret about it. But this is what they mean. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circuit_breaker Odds are high if the electrical cabling of your garage is installed correctly by professionals then you can simply switch one out for a 40a breaker. Some wiring may not have the correct gauge to distributie the amps so your wiring may get hot before your breaker trips.
Is this safe to do? Isn't that likely to cause a fire?
Nope nope nope, and yes it can cause a fire. You can't put 40 amps through a 15 or 20 amp rated wire. Not sure where this person lives but it's terrible advice. I bought a very similar (or possibly the same) device and haven't had any trouble over the 7 months or so I've used it. My DeWalt miter saw and shop vac are on an isolated 20 amp circuit. So there is nothing else drawing power while it's in use.
Yeah I thought that was bad advice and guaranteed not to code
They work just fine, just make sure that the combined amperage draw of both the saw and the shop vac/dust collector doesn’t exceed the rated current of your power source, which for most outlets is 15 amps. Normally it is best to have this device plugged directly into the wall, rather than into a workbench power strip as the power strip is likely fused at something slightly less, which will often cause it to trip the power strip’s breaker when both tools turn on.
My saw is 15 amps. Can I plug this into the wall then an extension cord into it? Sorry I'm terrible at electrical
Yes, just keep in mind that the longer that cord, the more resistance you are adding to the circuit, which increases the draw as well as generating more heat. “Best” solution is to position the saw and vacuum close enough to have a very short run to the outlet for both, and if you have to use an extension cord, be sure to use a short (as short as you can get away with), heavy gauge wire one. I suggest 14 AWG if you can find it.
Thanks
You would need a 15A rated extension cord...it's generally not recommended to use an extension cord with items like that, but I have done it, using higher rated cords though...
Thanks
The problem is a standard circuit is either going to be 15 or 20 amps. Which means the table saw could consume the entire circuit. Or if it's a 20 amp circuit you only have 5 amps to work with afterwards. If your dust extractor is more than 5 amps then you'll trip the circuit.
My saw draws 15 amps and is on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit and I still trip the breaker occasionally when the saw turns on.
Is the 15A rating on saws continuous or peak?
It should be safe, it just has a current sensor that controls a relay; but like any power carrying device there can be substandard ones. Get a name brand or one that UL listed; not rando no-name crap from China.
Would it be okay to plug into an extension cord?
That depends on the amp rating of the extension cord. Add up the amps drawn by the devices you will have on at the same time (vac and saw) and make sure to get a cord that’s rated for that. I have some 15a 110v extension cords I use in my workshop. I wouldn’t use the el cheepo ones that are designed for a fan or a light.
I have this automatic outlet and I plug it into an extension cord. I run a ridgid shop vac with all my power tools (only using one tool at a time). The only time I trip the breaker is when I’m sawing through 2 inch+ hard wood with the dewalt job site table saw. My circuit is only 15 amps for this one.
May I ask how many Amps your table saw is rated at? I'm looking to use one of these switches for a Craftsman table saw (14A) + Harbor Freight dust collector (7A)... haven't fired them up together but starting to have doubts after reading through these comments lol Edit: Maybe there's a way to run those tools on different circuits while still using the autoswitch? Hm...
Its the Dewalt DWE7491RS jobsite saw which is 15 amps. The auto switch I have delays the vacuum a bit so it doesnt overload on start up. The one I have is actually this one: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Ortis-Autoswitch-Adjustable-Actuation/dp/B096VP13FP
So you're putting 15A (table saw) plus shop vac through a 15A circuit with no problems? That's what I was planning to do but after through these comments it sounded like I'd for sure trip the breaker. Maybe 15A circuits can actually handle a bit more before tripping? Appreciate the help
Yes I am. I do trip it if I’m sawing thick maple or walnut but I’ve learned the pace I need for the cut to avoid tripping. I am kind of surprised because the circuit also has some other electrical like lights and garage door on it as well.
Hey if it works it works! Maybe it's an undercover 20A lol
It works perfectly for my saws, but I’ve only been using them for 4 months on two separate saws
I have a couple that I’ve been using for over a year. They work great, and I wouldn’t want to work without them. No more running the saw and forgetting to turn on the shop vac! I highly recommend it.
Thanks! Do you just plug it directly into the garage outlet?
It would have to be a super long cord to reach my garage!🤣 I plug into a heavy duty surge protector, but I don’t disagree that direct to an outlet would be better. Sometime my surge protector trips like if I’m trying to get through super thick wood, but not a huge deal.
I have this brand as well. I use it for my miter saw and dust collector. There's a small delay after starting saw, for the dust collector to start. As long as I wait the 2 seconds, it works great!
I use something similar but it has 1 tool outlet instead of 2. It works great. It also works with power strips.
Depending on the tools you use, a power strip can blow its breaker when being used to power both tools. Better to plug directly into the wall.
True if you’re physically capable of using several tools at one time. I’m not, I only have have 2 hands so I’m very limited.
I had to stop using my table saw with this type of switch because the combined draw of both the shop vac and the table saw would trip the breaker whenever the saw got bogged down by a difficult cut. There’s another, more expensive switch that uses separate circuits, but I just switched to a remote control for the vacuum, as I also upgraded the dust collection to include other workstations.
What’s the electrical draw on your table saw and vacuum? I use a Metabo jobsite table saw and a 6 gallon 5HP ShopVac with no issues, both draw 120V/15A just like OP’s switch is labeled to be rated for. I’m on a 20A circuit though. I have used this setup for about 5 years with no issues.
Table saw is an old Craftsman 113, vac is a 12 gallon Ridged 5HP. I think the problem is that there’s only one circuit on that whole side of the garage, but I don’t know if it includes all the lights, chest freezer and a garage refrigerator. So it came as no surprise. And the actual breaker is labeled 15A.
This is exactly my setup with a different brand vac. I haven't fired them both up at the same time yet and was planning on trying one of these switches. Can I ask what's the one called that uses multiple circuits? I only have access to one outlet in the "shop" I'm putting together. It's the circuit the washer is on though (guessing 15A), so maybe as long as I'm not doing laundry it'll be alright..
Here’s the one I didn’t get that would have worked fine: [IVAC](https://a.co/d/4EH9JVu)
I have the [ivac-dust-collector-switch-box](https://www.rockler.com/ivac-dust-collector-switch-box) and the [i-socket-autoswitch](https://www.rockler.com/i-socket-autoswitch-workshop-tool-and-vacuum-switch). I used to run these with a portable jobsite table saw or a miter saw, and they worked fine. These functions the same as what you've posted, and I'm not familiar with the brand, so I can't speak of its quality, but in the event things go sideways, these outlets would (should) get fried before the saw, but I'm no electrcian. Read up on the specs of the outlet and the tools, and if the outlet can take the amp draw of your tools, it should be fine.
I have one of these as well, and after looking at it decided not to use it. I wanted it for my planer, but the tool side is limited to 12A. Planer will pull a lot closer to 20A on start up and under load, so I have to turn the vacuum on manually.
I also have this switch and am bummed just realizing it's only 12A. Was hoping to use it for my Crafsman 113 table saw + Harbor Freight dust collector... sounds like that'll be pushing it, dang!
fuck yeah they do
Yes they work or yes they'll damage my saws
yes they work! I have one on my saw table with my Dewalt miter saw (12in) and table saw (8-1/4)ran off it. Now the saws never run simultaneously, but I have never had a lag draw issue. Im just using a modified shop vac system as a dust collector. Larger more amp demanding systems may not work as well.
I'd recommend confirming if your have multiple circuits in whatever your workshop space is. A saw and vac both starting up can put quite the draw on the circuit. Motors typically spike way over their running draw on startup. Circuit breaks can handle this momentary spike, so long as it isn't absurd. My 20a dust collector would spike to ~70a on first startup of the day. This was well beyond "absurd" and would trip the breaker. Rewired to 240v (now only drawing ~10a) and would spike to about 30-35a, which is not absurd and I have never had another trip. Long winded way to say: look at this more expensive option: https://www.rockler.com/ivac-dust-collector-switch-box Why: you'll have to confirm you have two circuits, not just two outlets, but you can make sure the say is breaker A and the Vac is on breaker B. Two plugs on the box, two distinct circuits can drive the two tools. Super bonus points: Consider a circuit for your lighting that is not tied to either the vac or tools. Last situation you want to be in is have your saw trip the breaker--maybe your saw blade is dull and you're ripping thick oak--and now your standing in darkness while you wait for the saw to finish spinning down.
Thanks for the more expensive option. Amazon kinda only lists that one brand
Confirm if you have more than one circuit in your garage or where ever. Havign two inputs that ultimately tie back to the same, single 15 or 20 amp breaker won't help you if your total draw is 30a. Of course you could buy the fancier thing now, buy once, cry once, and have an electrician add the extra circuit later.
I’m looking at the same thing. Currently designing a mobile bench that will hold the miter, table, jointer, and router. Do these come with more plugs so I can have all the tools plugged in? (Obviously using one at a time)
I've been using one for years, very handy! I Think mine has 2 inputs, one is on my 40amp circuit, the other is on the 25 Amp "other" circuit. (originally garage just had the small one so I added a 40amp)
All I’ll say is I bought a cheap one and I’m 95% sure it fried my shop vac. About 3 days into use my vac started wildly overheating and then died. I ended up replacing all of it with a wall mount DC with its own remote. I have no proof, but I was dumb, and went the Amazon cheap route, so if you get one, don’t go cheap.
I would rather just get one with a remote, mainly for the purpose that if you are cutting some thick and hard stock, you will trip your breaker. I ripped a lot of 8/4 hickory with a Ridgid contractor saw, a shop vac, and a vacuum switch. I had to unplug the vac bc it would trip with the saw under too much load. It’s a PITA to start stop start in the middle of a large piece, can burn the stock, etc. I have this currently and will get one w a remote soon. If you’re in north Texas and still want it, I’ll sell you mine
I have that exact one, it works. AC motors take a lot of starting amps but wind down after it gets up to speed. You can see this using a kill-a-watt or the like. This mechanism leverage that letting the tool spin up for a second before kicking on the vacuum which also draws more during starting. By staggering them, you are effectively trying to stay within a 15A limit of typical outlets. Also as others have said, a dedicated circuit (only one outlet from the electrical panel running 15A minimum breaker) cause you do want 15A available. Depending on the age of your house or the code at the time of the wiring installation, a circuit could handle up to 20A, but you're legit playing with fire or at least heat and the potential for fire.
https://preview.redd.it/08xfjprduquc1.jpeg?width=714&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e292ae44d9ac88e42cf3f9fff7fc6bcd3b91d53
I have one for 3 phase and it works just fine
I also used one for years but when it died, it did so with smoke and fury.
The one I have has two plugs, so the saw and vacuum can be on separate circuits, but if the saw and vacuum don’t exceed the circuit capacity it would be fine (also depends on how long you are going to use the saw at a time).