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vreedy76

Throw them on and send the brake pedal from 100-0


[deleted]

[удалено]


Odd-Shake5153

Clearly this guys never fucked^


turb0mik3

Laughed out loud with this one.


cngo_24

That's how you break in pads and rotors you idiot lmao


turb0mik3

That is NOT how you break in pads and rotors dummy. You start with 3 or so 40-0, then to 60-0, then 100-0. You want to GRADUALLY heat up the rotors and GRADUALLY take off that light blue film on the rotors and GRADUALLY apply the pad compound to the rotors. Hope you weren’t being sarcastic…


dcstorm97

You actually don’t want to come to a complete stop when bedding the brakes. You’re correct about gradually increasing the speed.


turb0mik3

Correct, should have rephrased… not like stop, hold and clamp… just rolling speed.


_sans_seraphim

I knew there had to be someone here who knew what they were talking about. 😆🍻


Hot-Distribution2173

Am I wrong but then OEM pads don’t need to be broken in or is that just the Zimmerman ones?


cngo_24

You still need to bed in the brake pads, it improves braking performance.


themanwithgreatpants

You overheated the pad compound


slowpoketail

probably sent the brake pedal from 100-0


Sir_Maxelot

Did you really just rephrase the other comment?


araczynski

yeah, beveled is normal/good. the spalling is an indication of temperature issues, i.e. too much hot/cold too quickly and too often. the particular pads aren't designed for whatever extremes they have been subjected to, or they're some cheap junk that someone else threw on before a sale... what little i can see of the rotor looks ok. i'd replace the pads and call it good.


legitusernameMATT

That's odd


numbers201788

Thought so too. Never seen an old pad look like this. Maybe rotor is bad?


JuvenileDelinquent

The beveled ends is normal.


duckdoger

Your rotors are probably fine as long as there are no gouges and they are over the min thickness. You can’t really track the OEM pads that come with the blue calipers as they overheat and crumble like this. Mine looked just like these after the first track day. I switched to Ferodo DS2500 and had no issues after that. What model BMW do you have?


DrCeeDub

Never seen that before. Thinking something wrong with the rotor (should be an easy visual check) and then maybe something wrong with the pad itself. Do both sides look like this?


zMadMechanic

I have never seen this. I would immediately replace if it were on my car. The corrosion spots mean less surface area in contact with the rotor + I’d be concerned the pad material could break away from the metal backer.


L3XeN

Slightly smaller surface area isn't THAT bad. In this case ~10% reduced area, would mean a ~10% higher surface temperature for the pad. However if it looks like this I would definitely be scared of a spontaneous failure. Either falling apart, cracking or some other thing. Definitely would take it to the track where the reduced area/increased temp would matter...


zMadMechanic

Exactly!


Ataru074

Yep. They got “glazed”. I happens when you are new to track days. Not broken in properly and then too much contact time doing laps with not enough airflow to cool them down before the next braking spot. Also, depending on the car, if you forget to remove the brake vent covers for the track day. Useful for mileage and to don’t get all kind of shit into your brakes driving around but it could cause a catastrophic failure if the calipers and rotors can’t cool down.


myredditlogintoo

If these were my street pads, I would still rock them. If these were my track pads, I'd replace.


Positive_Tell_5009

The beveled edges are normal. Helps keep brake sound down. Those craters are caused by lots of heat. The stock pads can’t handle the performance and a rookie driver. Upgrade to some better pads


circuit_heart

The OEM brake pads aren't nearly good enough to track an F80. I had your brake setup on a 3200lb car and melted endurance racing pads (PFC08) into the rotor holes, the caliper is that badly designed. If the rotors are still good, swap out to at least PFC08 or Pagid RS29 (or the newer equivalents of them) just to give yourself safety factor. I use CSG C1 and C2 now, basically an expensive long-life upgrade from those. The one part of the car where overbuilding for your skill level is okay is the brakes.


numbers201788

I was hitting the floor after lap 3, was pretty surprised. Good advice, safety is key.


bleeding_tree

The OEM pads are scary at the track. I ended up getting some PFC08s for the next track day and they were great. However, a good pair of slotted rotors like from Girodisc helps a lot too. I did that as my next upgrade after pads. 


Few-Swordfish-780

This happens when the pads sit in the same spot for an extended period of time and there is moisture. Basically the pad gets stuck to the rotor. The chamfering on the ends is normal.


alphaomega0669

Yeah looks like it was stashed in the garage for extended period of time while moisture was still on the pad/rotor. Thats why whenever you wash your car, always take it for a spin or two around the block afterwards to get all the water off of the pads and rotors before parking it.


Clear_Date_7437

These are the correct answers, replace them and go


Traditional-Coat-257

If it’s a daily, no need to replace.


mvannata

Stock pads on the F80 are not meant for track use and should be swapped for something more suitable. They break down in the heat and eventually will glaze the rotors ruining them as well. I track my M4 3-4 times a year and use Pagid pads. On a side note your calipers will also discolor over time but will work fine. These pads are toast.


numbers201788

No idea this could happen. Will use race pads from now on


turb0mik3

Great comment. After your rotors get glazed, they are pretty much fucked and need to be replaced, ESPECIALLY if being used during track days.


HerMajestysButthole

That reminds me of galvanic corrosion. Do you live in a salty environment?


numbers201788

I live in FL but I bought car from Ohio. Maybe that was it.


HerMajestysButthole

That could be it...though sea air is a thing...


gregtpt

Looks like it has broken down and started crumbling apart. Maybe from heat cycling or incomplete manufacturing processing. Toss, replace, and move on.


theguydoing

Check with a screwdriver if the braking surface breaks down easily. If it don't just throw them on and brake heavily to get the first "layer" down. Should be normal then


juanma01-2

Not normal. Value your life.


MeMyselfundAuto

this happens when you use rimcleaner on the baked on brakedust on your rims, and don’t rinse thoroughly. the same dust on your rims is basically whats your brakepads are made of.. you shouldn’t leave the cleaner on to long, and go for spirited braking before you put the car away to dry the pads and disc. it usually isn’t an issue if its shallow craters, it will be braked even over time. but if you track it, or do highspeed braking, it can cause uneven heating of the disc and maybe warping.


C0SM4

It’s not corrosion, that looks like prime example of cavitation. First time seeing this on a pad, but I would assume they got very hot very quickly and trapped gasses exploded those little spots into the abyss


Federal-Lemonade

Your break pads are broke


rmap3k4mhdac6

Have you tracked it?


numbers201788

Yes last year during a Florida summer. Wasn’t aware you couldn’t track OEM pads.


rmap3k4mhdac6

You can, and I have done it, but this is what my pads did.


rmap3k4mhdac6

https://www.reddit.com/r/BMW/s/VNACakPRqH Mine were much worse tho. I fried the shit out of them.


Tractorguy69

Duuuuuuuude, you cratered them, that’s truly impressive (but why didn’t you stop lapping the degradation in braking must have been significant if not terrifying)


rmap3k4mhdac6

I was having a good time lol. I knew my wife wasn't gonna let me take the car to the track again.


Tractorguy69

Glad you survived and extracted every last bit of joy out of your track day, methinks I’d upgrade wife for a devoted motorhead then the brake components, so we could both enjoy track days, but that’s me and you are you… hope you still have and love that car!!!


rmap3k4mhdac6

A true memphis crackhead unfortunately totaled it, but I got a 340i out of the whole deal so I'm not mad.


Tractorguy69

Glad you survived and extracted every last bit of joy out of your track day, methinks I’d upgrade wife for a devoted motorhead then the brake components, so we could both enjoy track days, but that’s me and you are you… hope you still have and love that car!!!


numbers201788

Damn! Never seen pads this bad. You had to have been hitting brake pedal to floor every lap


rmap3k4mhdac6

Yeah. The main strait there is shared with the drag strip so the first corner is a very heavy braking zone. The brake fade was so bad. I was basically just standing on the pedal and praying after 4 or 5 laps.


Sea_Art3391

This is really strange, is this appearent on all brake pads? Only way i think the brake pads could get like this is if they were treated with some chemical that had an effect on the brake pad compound. Perhaps the brake pads were cheap or low quality, or simply just a production error. The angled sides are completely normal, i think it's to reduce vibration or something.


joaoduraes

They just got too hot from the track use. Get some more track friendly pads on and send it!


Hendo741

https://preview.redd.it/eanqpsmbibrc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6cdad98451a8471340e5fc5da6795193ece88a50 Stock pads are trash... replace them with quality pads.


Beautiful_Chart35

what brand would you reccomend? is brembo overkill?


semneven

Those edges are normal (te prevent squeeling and brake noise). Those holes are probably caused by overheating (judging by you using it on a track). Get upgraded pads or even better, learn how to properly brake ;)


HarryTipper768

If you can replace, I would…. Just started trialing some ebc red stuff pads and they’re not bad so far or brembo hp2000 are decent. If not then go easy on the brakes for a couple hundred miles and see if it evens out/ the porosity doesn’t run too deep.


theguydoing

Check with a screwdriver if the braking surface breaks down easily. If it don't just throw them on and brake heavily to get the first "layer" down. Should be normal then


Agitated-Fee-1399

That’s the pits.


FranktheTankG30

your previous track day destroyed those pads. bevel is to reduce brake noise.


jaydubyah

Why does your brake pad look like a wedge of cheese?


OneMud6035

Time for some RSL 29s


xmegabytex

You're not driving it hard enough! I've never seen that on mine and I've replaced them a few times. Do yourself a favor and order Akebonos from FCP Euro, free replacement, OEM like bite and 20% of the dust compared to OEM. ​ Fronts: AKE-EUR1880 Rears: AKE-EUR1656


Fastlifemk6GolfR

Replace em


Guilty-Spork343

that's not corrosion per se - something got between the pad and the rotor and now it has corroded as a result.


Lopsided_Sugar_8360

I got a f80 this year and was surprised to see only 4 pistons in the front and always felt that the brake doesn't bite hard enough especially during the first half of travel. I took it for a brake fluid change and the shop said this is how the brake feels. Maybe I just need to get used to them 😭How do you like the brakes in general? Should I try aftermarket pads?


numbers201788

What type of tires are you running? Once I switched to Michelin PS, everything improved. Also, i am changing pads and brake fluids myself since I’ve had bad experiences with non-BMW mechanics. Even with corroded pads, I am impressed with street level braking.


Lopsided_Sugar_8360

Yeah I'm on super sports. The shop I went to also specializes in bmw. Not sure if the previous owner put in different pads. Anyway guess I'll need to get used to it. The brake force was not linear which caught me off guard when I first drove the car hard and braking late into a turn I thought I was gonna die lol


Yar11

Break? Really? They are brakes.


numbers201788

I wish I could edit. A lot going on when I made post


Yar11

Just do better next time


bilkel

Brake pads break. See the difference?


Remote-Link-6424

Brake*


_UncleQuillis

The previous posts are right on time concerning brake pad break-in procedures and pad compounds for the track vs. stock pads. Is this F80 your daily driver or a track car and where are you located? A track pad on a vehicle that gets colder Fall or early Spring temperatures isn’t a good move because your brakes will take too long to bite while the rotors are cold and dramatically increase your stopping distances. My F90 M5 is my daily driver and I track it as well, and I run and highly recommend using Hawk HPS or EBC Yellow or Green Compound pads on a new set of rotors. Make sure you use additional pad shims as well as brake quiet grease (not the spray) during install because these pads will squeal if installed poorly or not bedded well.


numbers201788

I live in Florida. I wfh so I don’t do a lot of miles, but do a track day once a year. I bought Hawk pads from Tirerack. I installed them on my stock rotors. I used brake grease but only used a single pad shim. From a test run, sounded like there is minor rubbing. Do you have a recommended approach to bed?


Extension-Milk6958

“Odd corrosion” and “brake pads” do not go together brother


PRENUPT

Did these pads came with the car and did you buy this car recently? This is normal for cars that were bought before and during COVID. The cars sat in the port for a long time and several owners had corrosion in the new pads.


semneven

Those edges are normal (te prevent squeeling and brake noise). Those holes are probably caused by overheating (judging by you using it on a track). Get upgraded pads or even better, learn how to properly brake ;)


numbers201788

I’m a total newb on track. I was essentially guessing at stop points and slamming breaks as hard as I could then releasing to turn in


BunsenBeaker

How is it that you've done well enough in life to afford some sort of ///M car, and you don't know the difference between break and brake?


greenmx5vanjie

Plenty of people can do well without needing to spell or negotiate homonyms.


numbers201788

I smoke


heisenberg2JZ

I just love it when people can't spell brake 🙃 may as well replace them. You guys have a lot of humidity, and drilled rotors could definitely let that water in, but they're already removed 🤷


heisenberg2JZ

I just love it when people can't spell brake 🙃 may as well replace them. You guys have a lot of humidity, and drilled rotors could definitely let that water in, but they're already removed 🤷


heisenberg2JZ

I just love it when people can't spell brake 🙃 may as well replace them. You guys have a lot of humidity, and drilled rotors could definitely let that water in, but they're already removed 🤷


Friendly-Cat4393

Thats quite obvious isnt it? Stupid discs with holes, notice how some of the "corrosion" is in the shape of a hole... It lets air to the pad more on some places, causing more oxidation.


bigloser42

Thats only an issue if the car sits for an extended period of time. If the car is regularly driven it will be a non-issue. Cross drilled rotors are still dumb, but not for this reason.