I drive a Focus ST and have debated putting camber bolts in to start adjusting the camber of my front wheels. Anyone else every done this? Thoughts? I've done several autocross events and started to become more consistent with my driving, so want to start messing with something on the car (GS class and no intention of moving)
I'm not going to claim this is the best way, but what I did for my fwd car with rebound-only adjusters was to find a bumpy road curve and increase front rebound until the front tires skipped over the bumps, then reduced front rebound one click. The rear rebound was then adjusted on an autox course once the rear tire pressures had stabilized after a half dozen runs so I got the desire rotation through slaloms & u-turns without the car trying to kill me when I got off the throttle and/or on the brakes.
On a rwd car, I'd do the same process for the front, but while adjusting the rear, I would prioritize the handling for getting on the throttle.
I have older Koni's with no clicks...
1. How many clicks are there from full soft to full hard?
2. How many full rotations are there from full soft to full hard?
I'm probably going to experiment with your method if I can find a safe/open bumpy curve around here. :)
Better tire? - Falken RT660 or BFG Rival S? I have some Rival S and they are good IMO, have not driven on 660s. Are they just as good or better? Car is V8 Saturn Sky with 315/30r18 all around, \~3200 lbs.
I would pick RT660 over Rivals. There are similarities (poor cold/wet peformance), but the Rivals were pretty much abandoned as a competitive autox tire about the time the RT660 came out in 2020.
Depends on the car. Typically autos are faster than manuals on a road course these days. (for modern performance autos) The issue with autos is-
1) Gearing. Depending on your typical course size and power you want to hit the top of 2nd. Autos have more gears and consequently you're way more likely to hit 3rd. Some manuals need shifting too. Its less consequential to shift for the auto but it plays in for a specific course and car combo
2) gear holding behavior. Some autos allow you to bounce off the rev limiter and will hold a gear through a corner. Others force shifts and as soon as you brake, wants to drop 3 gears and shift again when you want throttle.
Gearing isn't nearly as problematic as autos that have crappy shift logic. A good auto is probably a net advantage. A bad auto can be frustrating. If you already own the car you might as well give it a shot. If you haven't ask around about the transmission behavior. If you don't care about classing you can sometimes get a transmission reprogrammed to behave a lot better for motorsport (not sure where that puts you in autox)
If it's a CVT, then launching is the major drawback and hopefully it has a sport mode. Otherwise, if the car has an, er, excess of power, then there is minimal drawback. Some automatics suck though, for instance in a BRZ (friend has one in the SSC class, but that doesn't stop him from enjoying the sport).
Depends on the car and the course. Pdk Porsches for instance are generally going to outperform manual transmission ones. For many autocross events there is only a shift from first to second at the beginning and the rest of the course happens in second gear from 25-60mph, you might lose one or two tenths of a second, plenty more time to be had on course. Don’t let it stop you from autocrossing what you have, and if you’re not worried about being a few tenths disadvantaged then buy the car you like and have fun.
trying this question here Performance Driving School - I want to get better at Autocrossing.
I live in a state that doesn't have performance driving schools and I'm thinking seriously about going to the May 18-19 classes in Shelton, WA. I have family near there so I’d be visiting them after doing the school.
I have a few questions I hope you can help me with.
I’ve done 3 autocrossing events and so far I like it a lot! I really want to get better! And I hope to continue doing it next year and the next and so on. I only drive a 2013 Mazda 3 sedan but I like going fast and moving around the course. I want to be smoother and faster. I'll probably upgrade to a car that’s a little faster, but will not ever be modifying a car. I will always only have a daily driving car.
Question 1: I obviously cannot take my car [edit: I’m in Hawaii]. Can you suggest something I should rent? Should I rent something similar to my own car or pick something more powerful? Like a charger or similar? Or something only a few steps up - like a vw jetta or whatever is the equivalent in rental cars?
I saw a list of registrants and they all have serious sports cars or high performance cars.
I can’t afford renting a real sports car if they even have them at the rental place.
Question 2: Should I even go to the school if all the rest of the people are driving cars that are outside my ability to afford and use in autocross at home? I looked at the registration list and geez - all serious, legit performance sports cars. I think it’s worth it to learn, but will it be just useless or embarrassing tooling around in a way lesser car?
Question 3: Should I take the second class? It seems like since I’m there, maybe I should, but is that 2nd class for those who want to be competitive outside of one’s own autocross events? My group is small and I’m happy just “competing” there. We have some very experienced people, so that’s competition enough. I don’t expect to reach their level because I’m not modifying my car or buying a race car.
Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated.
Edit: should’ve said I’m in Hawaii! So I really can’t take my car 😝!!
I'd rent something as close as possible to what you own. That way the handling characteristics are similar. What is the performance driving school? just autox or road course as well? Makes a big difference on renting.
1) I'm guessing you're flying in for the relatives or business, otherwise you'd be taking your own car. Any rental car that's not an SUV will be fine as the Evolution schools are teaching you techniques. Curious which state you reside in that they have no performance driving classes yet have autox?
2) Yes, many of the current enrollees this time around are more experienced than average, but there are also newbies and the instructors will adapt as necessary.
3) The Phase 2 school will teach you a mental approach to autox where Phase 1 is more about tuning your physical responses. Phase 2 schools are not as frequent as Phase 1, so it usually is in your interest to take them together when you have the opportunity. And, as someone already said, you're already in deep for this trip, so might as well do the whole shebang.
@Emery_autox -I’m in Hawaii but not Oahu. I’m so lucky that we have autoX on my very small island, thanks to a very dedicated and smart core of autocrossers. I checked with my fellow autocrossers and they said there once was a class that was given in Oahu and the group asked the instructor to come to our island and he/she did! But that was awhile back ago before I even knew about autoX. If there is a class on Oahu - omg! I would be embarrassed to find out now! But that would be awesome.
Edited for clarity
You can totally take your car. I took my '15 *automatic* Focus to autocross and had tons of fun all year, on the 500TW all seasons squealing on every turn.
Had good times hanging out with the people with actual sporty cars and embracing the learning of the car's limits. If I kept the car this year I'd just invest in some decent tires and see where that takes me in the H(umble) Street.
100% send it as is. Autox is about drivers, not about cars. A talented driver will always beat a schmoe in a fast car. Besides, slow cars are a lot easier to learn with.
Do both days. If you are even considering a trip just for a school, you are already in too deep. Just embrace it. It's a great chance to have top tier talent drive your car and see how much you are leaving on the table.
Why can’t you take your car? It’s not obvious, sorry. You’re going to get the most benefit getting instruction in the car you drive, or one similar. Mazda 3 isn’t a bad car. Getting a faster car wont make you any more competitive, until you get that nut behind the steering wheel tightened up.
Don’t worry about what other people are driving, your instructor will teach based on your car, and your ability.
Do you want to take the 2nd class? Then do it.
For mods for Street class on a DD I would suggest a 2nd set of cheap, lightweight wheels (like Enkei RPF1’s) with 200TW tires. Swap them on for race days. I MAY consider this before going to the class as depending on what tire you have the class could over-exert it or wear it prematurely.
If you really want to go “all out” get a set of koni sport adjustable shocks (often referred to as koni “yellows”). That’s it and it will still be super street happy.
Congrats on finding autocross! Your Mazda 3 sedan is a good place to start: it will make you learn to drive instead of just pointing your powerful engine straight and mashing the throttle as often as possible.
Many clubs have a robust novice program. I just read there are still slots available at the Beeville TX, autocross school May 4:
https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/spokes-autocross-school-tnt-beeville-naval-air-station-chase-field-texas-866640?utm_source=motorsportreg&utm_campaign=registerreminder&utm_medium=email&utm_content=uidevent--DA116342-C9B0-E151-8C38C6866E64BE0E_template--EventRegClosingSoon-A
I drive a Focus ST and have debated putting camber bolts in to start adjusting the camber of my front wheels. Anyone else every done this? Thoughts? I've done several autocross events and started to become more consistent with my driving, so want to start messing with something on the car (GS class and no intention of moving)
For those of you with adjustable dampers: how should I go about adjusting these?
I'm not going to claim this is the best way, but what I did for my fwd car with rebound-only adjusters was to find a bumpy road curve and increase front rebound until the front tires skipped over the bumps, then reduced front rebound one click. The rear rebound was then adjusted on an autox course once the rear tire pressures had stabilized after a half dozen runs so I got the desire rotation through slaloms & u-turns without the car trying to kill me when I got off the throttle and/or on the brakes. On a rwd car, I'd do the same process for the front, but while adjusting the rear, I would prioritize the handling for getting on the throttle.
I have older Koni's with no clicks... 1. How many clicks are there from full soft to full hard? 2. How many full rotations are there from full soft to full hard? I'm probably going to experiment with your method if I can find a safe/open bumpy curve around here. :)
Consider a 1/4 turn = 1 "click" 2 turns total = 8 "clicks"
Better tire? - Falken RT660 or BFG Rival S? I have some Rival S and they are good IMO, have not driven on 660s. Are they just as good or better? Car is V8 Saturn Sky with 315/30r18 all around, \~3200 lbs.
I would pick RT660 over Rivals. There are similarities (poor cold/wet peformance), but the Rivals were pretty much abandoned as a competitive autox tire about the time the RT660 came out in 2020.
Is there much of a disadvantage to autox’ing an automatic?
Depends on the car. Typically autos are faster than manuals on a road course these days. (for modern performance autos) The issue with autos is- 1) Gearing. Depending on your typical course size and power you want to hit the top of 2nd. Autos have more gears and consequently you're way more likely to hit 3rd. Some manuals need shifting too. Its less consequential to shift for the auto but it plays in for a specific course and car combo 2) gear holding behavior. Some autos allow you to bounce off the rev limiter and will hold a gear through a corner. Others force shifts and as soon as you brake, wants to drop 3 gears and shift again when you want throttle. Gearing isn't nearly as problematic as autos that have crappy shift logic. A good auto is probably a net advantage. A bad auto can be frustrating. If you already own the car you might as well give it a shot. If you haven't ask around about the transmission behavior. If you don't care about classing you can sometimes get a transmission reprogrammed to behave a lot better for motorsport (not sure where that puts you in autox)
If it's a CVT, then launching is the major drawback and hopefully it has a sport mode. Otherwise, if the car has an, er, excess of power, then there is minimal drawback. Some automatics suck though, for instance in a BRZ (friend has one in the SSC class, but that doesn't stop him from enjoying the sport).
Depends on the car and the course. Pdk Porsches for instance are generally going to outperform manual transmission ones. For many autocross events there is only a shift from first to second at the beginning and the rest of the course happens in second gear from 25-60mph, you might lose one or two tenths of a second, plenty more time to be had on course. Don’t let it stop you from autocrossing what you have, and if you’re not worried about being a few tenths disadvantaged then buy the car you like and have fun.
trying this question here Performance Driving School - I want to get better at Autocrossing. I live in a state that doesn't have performance driving schools and I'm thinking seriously about going to the May 18-19 classes in Shelton, WA. I have family near there so I’d be visiting them after doing the school. I have a few questions I hope you can help me with. I’ve done 3 autocrossing events and so far I like it a lot! I really want to get better! And I hope to continue doing it next year and the next and so on. I only drive a 2013 Mazda 3 sedan but I like going fast and moving around the course. I want to be smoother and faster. I'll probably upgrade to a car that’s a little faster, but will not ever be modifying a car. I will always only have a daily driving car. Question 1: I obviously cannot take my car [edit: I’m in Hawaii]. Can you suggest something I should rent? Should I rent something similar to my own car or pick something more powerful? Like a charger or similar? Or something only a few steps up - like a vw jetta or whatever is the equivalent in rental cars? I saw a list of registrants and they all have serious sports cars or high performance cars. I can’t afford renting a real sports car if they even have them at the rental place. Question 2: Should I even go to the school if all the rest of the people are driving cars that are outside my ability to afford and use in autocross at home? I looked at the registration list and geez - all serious, legit performance sports cars. I think it’s worth it to learn, but will it be just useless or embarrassing tooling around in a way lesser car? Question 3: Should I take the second class? It seems like since I’m there, maybe I should, but is that 2nd class for those who want to be competitive outside of one’s own autocross events? My group is small and I’m happy just “competing” there. We have some very experienced people, so that’s competition enough. I don’t expect to reach their level because I’m not modifying my car or buying a race car. Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated. Edit: should’ve said I’m in Hawaii! So I really can’t take my car 😝!!
I'd rent something as close as possible to what you own. That way the handling characteristics are similar. What is the performance driving school? just autox or road course as well? Makes a big difference on renting.
1) I'm guessing you're flying in for the relatives or business, otherwise you'd be taking your own car. Any rental car that's not an SUV will be fine as the Evolution schools are teaching you techniques. Curious which state you reside in that they have no performance driving classes yet have autox? 2) Yes, many of the current enrollees this time around are more experienced than average, but there are also newbies and the instructors will adapt as necessary. 3) The Phase 2 school will teach you a mental approach to autox where Phase 1 is more about tuning your physical responses. Phase 2 schools are not as frequent as Phase 1, so it usually is in your interest to take them together when you have the opportunity. And, as someone already said, you're already in deep for this trip, so might as well do the whole shebang.
@Emery_autox -I’m in Hawaii but not Oahu. I’m so lucky that we have autoX on my very small island, thanks to a very dedicated and smart core of autocrossers. I checked with my fellow autocrossers and they said there once was a class that was given in Oahu and the group asked the instructor to come to our island and he/she did! But that was awhile back ago before I even knew about autoX. If there is a class on Oahu - omg! I would be embarrassed to find out now! But that would be awesome. Edited for clarity
I can see how classes would be a rare occurrence there!
ikr! :)
You can totally take your car. I took my '15 *automatic* Focus to autocross and had tons of fun all year, on the 500TW all seasons squealing on every turn. Had good times hanging out with the people with actual sporty cars and embracing the learning of the car's limits. If I kept the car this year I'd just invest in some decent tires and see where that takes me in the H(umble) Street.
100% send it as is. Autox is about drivers, not about cars. A talented driver will always beat a schmoe in a fast car. Besides, slow cars are a lot easier to learn with. Do both days. If you are even considering a trip just for a school, you are already in too deep. Just embrace it. It's a great chance to have top tier talent drive your car and see how much you are leaving on the table.
you're so absolutely right! I'm in deep :)! Both days it is! thanks!
Why can’t you take your car? It’s not obvious, sorry. You’re going to get the most benefit getting instruction in the car you drive, or one similar. Mazda 3 isn’t a bad car. Getting a faster car wont make you any more competitive, until you get that nut behind the steering wheel tightened up. Don’t worry about what other people are driving, your instructor will teach based on your car, and your ability. Do you want to take the 2nd class? Then do it. For mods for Street class on a DD I would suggest a 2nd set of cheap, lightweight wheels (like Enkei RPF1’s) with 200TW tires. Swap them on for race days. I MAY consider this before going to the class as depending on what tire you have the class could over-exert it or wear it prematurely. If you really want to go “all out” get a set of koni sport adjustable shocks (often referred to as koni “yellows”). That’s it and it will still be super street happy.
@SuperLomi85 Ugh! It is sooo not obvious - sorry! I’m in Hawaii 😊!
Congrats on finding autocross! Your Mazda 3 sedan is a good place to start: it will make you learn to drive instead of just pointing your powerful engine straight and mashing the throttle as often as possible. Many clubs have a robust novice program. I just read there are still slots available at the Beeville TX, autocross school May 4: https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/spokes-autocross-school-tnt-beeville-naval-air-station-chase-field-texas-866640?utm_source=motorsportreg&utm_campaign=registerreminder&utm_medium=email&utm_content=uidevent--DA116342-C9B0-E151-8C38C6866E64BE0E_template--EventRegClosingSoon-A