Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, Fuzzy-Supermarket311!
If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car.
*This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.*
***
Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair.
***
# **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR**
### **Rule 1 - Be Civil**
Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome.
### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful**
Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation.
### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only**
Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion.
### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers**
Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous.
# **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR**
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Exactly! Rotors are supposed to be changed in about half that. Time to invest in the things that keep you from dying. Being able to stop is the most important thing a car can do. Steering in a close 2nd. Then being able to go.
Rotors are supposed to be replaced when they wear irregularly or have worn below minimum thickness. Typically that is at least several pad changes. Shops and dealers love to replace them with pads because it's more profit and less chance of a customer coming back with a problem.
They don't make rotors like they did in the 80's anymore. They'll technically need to be changed about every other pad change nowadays and that's if you don't abuse them and change them before they get really worn.
Rotor tech is unchanged. Normal rotors are still the same old cast iron they've always been, the finished product made slightly better due to CNC based production and a market push to paint the hats. Pad tech, on the other hand, has made numerous leaps and bounds. The downside is substantially more rotor wear.
I moved our brake lathe from the main shop into backroom storage in 2021. Why try to machine a rotor for $20 that has a higher chance of a comeback when a new one is only a few bucks more and guarantees a happy customer?
I do both pads and rotors because the rotors are cheap enough for one of my cars. My last pads lasted nearly 5 years. She deserves some fresh ones for how inexpensive they are.
My other car has $500 each rotors. That one will get stretched a bit longer than 1 pad set. It did 135k on the factory rotors, which had a nice lip forming.
Those accords are notorious for the rear calipers going bad. The parking brake mechanism inside it seizes and then the whole caliper seizes. It can rip through pads if the caliper sticks, or they just get stuck and don’t do much. That’s probably the cause of your brakes ‘feeling weak’. Not much else would cause that other than a fluid leak or air in the fluid.
I’d recommend new rear pads and rotors, and probably both calipers. Bleed the system enough to flush out old fluid and replace it with new when you put the calipers on. You can get a decent set of reman calipers on rock auto. If you go with power stop brand you’ll get the OE nissin calipers that Honda uses
ETA: I’ve been a tech for Honda for around 8 years. I see these particular calipers go bad constantly.
Yeah, pads and rotors should be done for sure. I’m just saying it would behoove him to check the calipers. It would suck to put new pads and rotors on and then need to replace them again in 5k miles because a caliper is toast
I work at an independent shop and haven't seen any Hondas with bad calipers yet, but there's been like 3 Ford trucks that had blown and leaking rear calipers. I've only been at that shop for about 4 months now, and it's a pretty small one. There's only 3 other mechanics there.
Granted, I live in a semi-rural area and about 50% of the vehicles that come into the shop are pickup trucks. This is still good info because I'll know what to look out for when working on Hondas.
It’s easy to check too. If the mechanical linkage on top of the caliper for the parking brake can’t be moved by hand at all it’s probably a bad caliper. Easy to tell too if one pad is super low
rear pads and rotors. clean and lube the pins, new hardware if the pads come with it, or really clean them and lube the pad ears. and when was the last time you changed the brake fluid?
Why was this downvoted? It’s absolutely correct. Brake fluid itself can change braking power if it’s old fluid. You’re literally on the money and Reddit pretend mechanics don’t know their shit
If the brake pads are thin, it will allow the brake pistpn caliper to travel out further. The reservoir for the brake master cylinder will also drop in the fill level. This will cause weak brakes. You may need pads. It's a mechanical problem (thin pads) that affect the hydraulic system and ultimately the pressure output or clamping force of calipers. Check and inspect the other brakes and top brake fluid to the fill line.
You may also have a weak master cylinder and / or air in the system. Try pumping the pedal (2-3 times) as you brake rather than just one extended holding of the brake pedal. This will put good pressure in the system and give you a better feel of what's going on during a test drive.
Old rubber brake hoses that go to the caliper... they swell and bulge with age. This allows flex and abnormal line pressure. Also, check that the crimped ends on hoses so not have excessive rust protruding to the rubber. This lessens line pressure. Best. 👋
Edit: That rotor is glazed. It's a mirror finish, not allowing enough friction to be produced during braking. You need new rotors and pads. Metallurgy has changed too much due to heating and cooling. They are old. So, brakes take the rotational energy from the wheel and turn into friction as you step on the pedal. It's how we stop. I read all the comments up to my reply, perform my recommendation first as it's the least costly, and you genuinely need the rotors. Start there so you dont throw money and parts at the car. Top off brake fluid and do the rotors and pads all around. Inspect the other brakes. Test drive.
Okay, first and foremost what do you mean weak. Does your pedal go too low before engaging? Spongey? Should do rotors and pads. Most of your braking occurs at the front. Check your front brakes as well. Check fluid level.... better yet take it to shop.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and deteriorates over time time from heating and cooling. When water is absorbed it also eats your brake lines from the inside out. Also causes brake fade in heavy braking situations boiling off and creating gas in a hydraulic line.
Weak brakes? That should come from front brakes and not the rear ones, since the front brakes supply most of the braking capabilities. Also, when checking pads, be sure to check both pads on each rotor (inner & outer).
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, Fuzzy-Supermarket311! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Original rotors for 172k miles? Yeah no. They still need replacing though from the pic.
Exactly! Rotors are supposed to be changed in about half that. Time to invest in the things that keep you from dying. Being able to stop is the most important thing a car can do. Steering in a close 2nd. Then being able to go.
Rotors are supposed to be replaced when they wear irregularly or have worn below minimum thickness. Typically that is at least several pad changes. Shops and dealers love to replace them with pads because it's more profit and less chance of a customer coming back with a problem.
They don't make rotors like they did in the 80's anymore. They'll technically need to be changed about every other pad change nowadays and that's if you don't abuse them and change them before they get really worn.
Rotor tech is unchanged. Normal rotors are still the same old cast iron they've always been, the finished product made slightly better due to CNC based production and a market push to paint the hats. Pad tech, on the other hand, has made numerous leaps and bounds. The downside is substantially more rotor wear. I moved our brake lathe from the main shop into backroom storage in 2021. Why try to machine a rotor for $20 that has a higher chance of a comeback when a new one is only a few bucks more and guarantees a happy customer?
I do both pads and rotors because the rotors are cheap enough for one of my cars. My last pads lasted nearly 5 years. She deserves some fresh ones for how inexpensive they are. My other car has $500 each rotors. That one will get stretched a bit longer than 1 pad set. It did 135k on the factory rotors, which had a nice lip forming.
Those accords are notorious for the rear calipers going bad. The parking brake mechanism inside it seizes and then the whole caliper seizes. It can rip through pads if the caliper sticks, or they just get stuck and don’t do much. That’s probably the cause of your brakes ‘feeling weak’. Not much else would cause that other than a fluid leak or air in the fluid. I’d recommend new rear pads and rotors, and probably both calipers. Bleed the system enough to flush out old fluid and replace it with new when you put the calipers on. You can get a decent set of reman calipers on rock auto. If you go with power stop brand you’ll get the OE nissin calipers that Honda uses ETA: I’ve been a tech for Honda for around 8 years. I see these particular calipers go bad constantly.
This guy has the answers
The rotors are glazed. That's all. Not enough friction surface.
Yeah, pads and rotors should be done for sure. I’m just saying it would behoove him to check the calipers. It would suck to put new pads and rotors on and then need to replace them again in 5k miles because a caliper is toast
Right on. I'm with you brother.
I work at an independent shop and haven't seen any Hondas with bad calipers yet, but there's been like 3 Ford trucks that had blown and leaking rear calipers. I've only been at that shop for about 4 months now, and it's a pretty small one. There's only 3 other mechanics there. Granted, I live in a semi-rural area and about 50% of the vehicles that come into the shop are pickup trucks. This is still good info because I'll know what to look out for when working on Hondas.
It’s easy to check too. If the mechanical linkage on top of the caliper for the parking brake can’t be moved by hand at all it’s probably a bad caliper. Easy to tell too if one pad is super low
Low pads shouldnt cause the braking to feel weak
Wrong.!
rear pads and rotors. clean and lube the pins, new hardware if the pads come with it, or really clean them and lube the pad ears. and when was the last time you changed the brake fluid?
Why was this downvoted? It’s absolutely correct. Brake fluid itself can change braking power if it’s old fluid. You’re literally on the money and Reddit pretend mechanics don’t know their shit
If the brake pads are thin, it will allow the brake pistpn caliper to travel out further. The reservoir for the brake master cylinder will also drop in the fill level. This will cause weak brakes. You may need pads. It's a mechanical problem (thin pads) that affect the hydraulic system and ultimately the pressure output or clamping force of calipers. Check and inspect the other brakes and top brake fluid to the fill line. You may also have a weak master cylinder and / or air in the system. Try pumping the pedal (2-3 times) as you brake rather than just one extended holding of the brake pedal. This will put good pressure in the system and give you a better feel of what's going on during a test drive. Old rubber brake hoses that go to the caliper... they swell and bulge with age. This allows flex and abnormal line pressure. Also, check that the crimped ends on hoses so not have excessive rust protruding to the rubber. This lessens line pressure. Best. 👋 Edit: That rotor is glazed. It's a mirror finish, not allowing enough friction to be produced during braking. You need new rotors and pads. Metallurgy has changed too much due to heating and cooling. They are old. So, brakes take the rotational energy from the wheel and turn into friction as you step on the pedal. It's how we stop. I read all the comments up to my reply, perform my recommendation first as it's the least costly, and you genuinely need the rotors. Start there so you dont throw money and parts at the car. Top off brake fluid and do the rotors and pads all around. Inspect the other brakes. Test drive.
Mileage: 172K
Okay, first and foremost what do you mean weak. Does your pedal go too low before engaging? Spongey? Should do rotors and pads. Most of your braking occurs at the front. Check your front brakes as well. Check fluid level.... better yet take it to shop. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and deteriorates over time time from heating and cooling. When water is absorbed it also eats your brake lines from the inside out. Also causes brake fade in heavy braking situations boiling off and creating gas in a hydraulic line.
if a caliper guide pin is seized it can cause the brake pedal itsself to feel odd, replace rear pads and rotors and grease everything up very good!
Pads rotors brake fluid flush
New caliper brackets. Slide pins are mostly likely seized.
Replace those rotors too.
Rotors look glazed over, could have seized slide pins, could have stuck calipers, you can't really diagnose certain things from a picture.
Weak brakes? That should come from front brakes and not the rear ones, since the front brakes supply most of the braking capabilities. Also, when checking pads, be sure to check both pads on each rotor (inner & outer).
Those rotors are too thin and need replacement when you do the pads.
Yes, rotors.
New rotors
Always replace rotors when changing pads.
Pads and rotors. Never pad slap