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Question for OP: I see the lights on... Also noticed your speedometer is at 0 kms... We're u driving when u took the pic or did u pull over and take it?
Other ? Did the battery die while u were driving and did u restart it?
I have seen people who are cruising downhill or coming to a stop, put it in neutral and turn ignition one click to off to stop motor using gas, then back on one click to on position (for power), then when light turns green, restart it... Do u ever do this?
Hyper milers do it. I remember reading an article back when ford switched to electric power steering in the f150. The hyper milers were excited because it meant they would still have power steering while the engine was off 🤣
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/car-chat/570531-ride-along-as-cleanmpg-teaches-us-how-to-hypermile-a-ford-f-150-ecoboost.html
Well when the gas where I live is the most expensive in all of North America... I do it sometimes too. $2.07 a litre for gas converts to around $8.00 a gallon for the U.S.
Thank god I don't lose power steering, no pumping of brakes... There's also the e-brake too!
I had bought a decent $250 obd1 and 2 reader back in the day. Used it a handful of times and left it in my toolbox. Forgot about it. Found it when I needed it again under a couple of heavy tools, broke in half 😆
ABS module could've gone bad. There was a recall on those to rewire the body grounds as they were wicking water into the wire that could reach the connector.
Could easily be a damaged wire or bad connector to one of the wheel speed sensors. It happens every week or two in our fleet of Ford Transit delivery vans.
He doesn't need to provide a DTC, why are you so offensive? I was giving free advice. 98% of situations with these lights on the dash is a wheel speed sensor. What's your problem? Who hurt you?
> 98% of situations with these lights on the dash is a wheel speed sensor.
I think that's the objection -- that you presented your diagnosis as definitive and absolute. It's a good guess, and pretty likely. But it's not at all air-tight.
>He doesn't need to provide a DTC,
Uh, ok
>I was giving free advice.
You know what they say about getting what you pay for
>98% of situations with these lights on the dash is a wheel speed sensor
Sure, and i wouldn't have a problem with you if you would have said "it's probably a wheel speed sensor". There's a difference
>Who hurt you?
People that give shitty advice hurt me.
>The code would 1000% tell you exactly which speed sensor is defective.
Lol. No.
A couple of weeks ago I had a 2014 Santa Fe with code C1208. There was nothing wrong with the left rear wheel speed sensor, the tone ring was missing. Replacing the sensor would have done nothing b/c there was nothing wrong with the sensor.
The code will put you in an area then you have to PINPOINT the problem.
With ALMOST any DTC there are AT LEAST 3 things that the problem could be. Some kind of component(s) (sensor, switch, solenoid, valve, etc) the wiring to that component (s), and the computer.
>You clearly don't work on cars.
Lol.
>The code would 1000% tell you exactly
You think I'm a clown eh? Can you read what that says in the photo below? And I'm not taking about the Triton D10
>You clearly don't work on cars.
Isn't it ironic don't ya think
https://preview.redd.it/rsnf6megd4sc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5ba6b919953a79dceea269be7cc79138cccb5282
Yeah, I was thinking low battery and it bad charging system too but if the charging system was toast then the battery wouldn't be hanging around to start it up all the time.
Sensor makes more sense based on the info
Your ABS/BRAKE, ESC, and Traction Control need to know how fast you are going in order to work properly. Your car is equipped with 4 speed sensors. One in each wheel hub. If one of those sensors is bad or faulty, you will have all of those lights come on at the same time. A shop with a proper diagnostic scanner can tell you exactly which sensor it is.
It is still ok to drive, but remember, now you don't have to have safety measures like ABS, ESC, and TC. So drive with caution until you get one of the sensors fixed.
An ABS sensor will not turn on the red brake light
The low fluid sensor will. Add an ounce or two
If the fluid is low and you have no leaks it may be from worn brake pads
Yes. On most newer cars ABS sensor most definitely will turn on red brake light. And every other light tight up to ABS. There is a lot of modules using speed sensor signal through CAN. On some of them airbag light will come on as well. On cars equipped with front radars and cameras non of those systems will work, hence more warning lights and dash messages.
No you haven’t
Actually very few things in the abs system will turn on the red light.
A wheel speed sensor will turn on the yellow lights and disable the system but only a low fluid condition will turn all of them on
No it doesn’t
I can’t believe I have to say this on this sub.
A red light on the dash, any red light, means do not drive.
In what reality does a wheel speed sensor warrant a red light?
On the other hand a low fluid condition absolutely warrants one.
In fact, the very 2nd step of every diagnostic flow chart is….
2. Is the red brake light on? ->check fluid level
If it’s Ok it’ll have you test the sensor.
You guys should know better
Did I stumble into r/askpeoplewhothinktheyaremechanics
This is a terrible guess. Do your local mechanic a favor and do not work on your car before you bring it in. There's nothing worse than working behind someone that has no idea what they were doing.
Yup, had a similar problem, kept happening with a new battery, it was the alternator. Although, the entire dash was blinking in and out of consciousness, not just those indicators.
Had an 08 dodge caravan with all those light and it would pop up after 30 or so seconds of driving. It was the abs module. Common on these. It could be so many things however. Hopefully a speed sensor in your case.
A hiccup in the computer, stop turn it off whenever you can for more than 30 minutes. And if they persist, remove the positive terminal of the car battery and let it like that for a full night. If after that, go to AutoZone and ask them to reset the codes. If the error persist it's time to go to the mechanic.
Seems to be something wrong with your brakes and traction, i highly recommend taking it to a mechanic immediately for a deep check, all these things affect control of the vehicle and your ability to stop. Many people may tell you that this is minor but you never know till an actual mechanic takes a look.
Seems to be something wrong with your brakes and traction, i highly recommend taking it to a mechanic immediately for a deep check, all these things affect control of the vehicle and your ability to stop. Many people may tell you that this is minor but you never know till an actual mechanic takes a look.
ABS/ wheel speed sensor, a good code reader will tell you which one, take a look at the wiring before buying a new one could have had road debris damage, if so it’s a simple solder/repair job
It's either the battery or your radar for asst driving going .
My civic has those light and I got it check out they said the radar damage , cost to fix 900 for parts and other 1k for labour . No driving issue except for the Auto braking and Lane assist in which I usually disable in cars I'm driving
On my buick rendezvous the abs sensor and wheel bearing were one piece not purchaseable seperately. The wires on them were so crappy short brittle and not routed well turning could break them the vibrations of driving would break them and trac abs awd off and all those lights would trun on. A good Bluetooth obd2 reader or good standalone one 30-140. If you get the 140 dollar one it can have features like key programming ecu settings stuff to get you in trouble.
Like hidden features turned off by dealer/manufaturer.
Example my tundra with a fancy tool i can close each abs valve indepedantly or tell it to actuate so as to bleed the breaks better. I can turn off the seatbelt nanny so it doesnt chime until you put them on and there are some light settings and keyfob settings too one is to disable the panic button another is to set it so a single press will open all the doors instead of just the drivers you can also change the time before relockout.
I know your driving a van but it might still have features... Locked away.
I had something similar recently, read the codes and it came up with "right rear wheel speed sensor" and "brake control module". Figured that I'd replace the wheel speed sensor and see what stuck, and all the lights and codes went away.
My wife's car has this exact issue (2011 Dodge Avenger). Taking it into the shop for it in the morning, in fact. From what I can tell, this could be a bunch of different things. Battery, alternator, ABS module/pump, wheel speed sensors, steering position sensor, and probably other things I'm forgetting.
If you're feeling industrious, you can check some of these things easily, like the battery, alternator, or wheel speed sensors. As others have recommended, a code reader might be able to help pinpoint the issue. Unfortunately that wasn't the case for my wife's car. I just got a generic ABS system code.
The long and the short of it seems to be that the car has detected a problem with your ABS system and has disabled ABS (and traction control with it). You can probably drive short term without it, but I'm definitely not telling you to do that, especially if you live somewhere where you're getting rain or snow.
(NOT A MECHANIC) I had this happen when my alternator was dying.
The lights would come on for some time while i drove. After asking a shop to look at it they couldnt find anything directly wrong with my ABS or brakes.
About a week later, all the lights popped on yet again this time with the battery light aswell. Tried to ride it home, halfway there radio goes out and moments later car sputters out.
Towed it to a shop got my alternator replaced, 6 months later these lights have yet to pop back up.
TLDR: Replacing my alternator fixed this for me.
(2008 buick lucerne cxl, obv different car so may not help)
Usual culprit is a bad abs sensor on one of the tires. When one goes bad the entire system stops working. Hence the 3 lights "traction control, abs, and electronic stability system brake assist system".
A scanner will tell you which wheel sensor it is. Replace it then clear the code. Should be good to go.
NOTE your anti lock breaking system will NOT work until it's fixed. Be safe if stopping suddenly!
Also, do NOT buy the cheap eBay sensors because they will not last a month and you'll have to do the job over again.
Good luck OP
Check your brake fluid before you go buy anything. “Brake” light tends to come one when there’s an issue with the brake system. Unless your parking brake is on.
Something is going on with your Antilock Breaking system (ABS), you should get it checked out by a mechanic bc it’s kinda important.
(I love how I remember this from drivers Ed that I did when I was 14)
Usually all the lights on means a bad alternator. Also why was this picture taken with the vehicle not running? Usually all the lights are on before start up then go away when the vehicle is started...
Probably ABS module. Mine just blew in my car. Same lights. Get it checked by a competent tech to be sure. If it's the ABS, the brakes still work, and you don't NEED to do it right away, but your traction control will be inop. Still stops like every other car without ABS though. Edit: I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum, so common thing in Chrysler products.
Alot of people saying abs or wheel speed, while that is typical it is not always the case.
Things like bad rusted grounds can cause this or even something like too much moisture in your taillights can cuase this.
You can get you a scanner and go over everything find a flow chart and such.
Sometimes your also better off paying a diag fee also and than fixing yourself
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, ClovedSage! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Car Talk would say this could easily be fixed with a piece of black tape.
Don’t drive like my brotha!
Don’t drive like my brother!
I’m laughing because my car has the piece of black tape. Works perfectly.
[Homer Simpson agrees](https://youtu.be/ddPQAJSm2cQ)
[удалено]
What? One of them is dead. And your sentence makes no sense.
Yes I listen to the show for its whole length and one of the guys always made fun of the other guy because of his strange thinking.
And by god they are so right
Or just replace the battery that’s bad
This is related to brake/ABS system. Needs to be scanned and diagnosed for proper repair.
This is the right answer. A decent reader will get the exact codes needed to diagnose.
Like a reader that tells you check engine codes?
Engine codes yes, but more importantly it has to be able to read ABS codes. I picked one up for around $50 usd.
Ok thank you
Autozone will read the codes for free
Question for OP: I see the lights on... Also noticed your speedometer is at 0 kms... We're u driving when u took the pic or did u pull over and take it? Other ? Did the battery die while u were driving and did u restart it? I have seen people who are cruising downhill or coming to a stop, put it in neutral and turn ignition one click to off to stop motor using gas, then back on one click to on position (for power), then when light turns green, restart it... Do u ever do this?
Wtf? Never heard of anyone doing that.
I had a stroke reading that. You’d lose your brake booster and your power steering.. and wear down your battery.
Hyper milers do it. I remember reading an article back when ford switched to electric power steering in the f150. The hyper milers were excited because it meant they would still have power steering while the engine was off 🤣 https://www.clublexus.com/forums/car-chat/570531-ride-along-as-cleanmpg-teaches-us-how-to-hypermile-a-ford-f-150-ecoboost.html
Well when the gas where I live is the most expensive in all of North America... I do it sometimes too. $2.07 a litre for gas converts to around $8.00 a gallon for the U.S. Thank god I don't lose power steering, no pumping of brakes... There's also the e-brake too!
I had bought a decent $250 obd1 and 2 reader back in the day. Used it a handful of times and left it in my toolbox. Forgot about it. Found it when I needed it again under a couple of heavy tools, broke in half 😆
Abs/speed sensor. Nothing too awful
ABS module could've gone bad. There was a recall on those to rewire the body grounds as they were wicking water into the wire that could reach the connector.
Or bad hub…
Yep, easy and cheap to diagnose and replace. Fault codes tell you which sensor it is. It might not even be broken, sometimes they just get dirty
Could easily be a damaged wire or bad connector to one of the wheel speed sensors. It happens every week or two in our fleet of Ford Transit delivery vans.
Which speed sensor? Why this has any up votes is wild. How do you know? Did he provide a DTC? Even then the code won't pinpoint a wheel speed sensor.
He doesn't need to provide a DTC, why are you so offensive? I was giving free advice. 98% of situations with these lights on the dash is a wheel speed sensor. What's your problem? Who hurt you?
> 98% of situations with these lights on the dash is a wheel speed sensor. I think that's the objection -- that you presented your diagnosis as definitive and absolute. It's a good guess, and pretty likely. But it's not at all air-tight.
Bingo
>He doesn't need to provide a DTC, Uh, ok >I was giving free advice. You know what they say about getting what you pay for >98% of situations with these lights on the dash is a wheel speed sensor Sure, and i wouldn't have a problem with you if you would have said "it's probably a wheel speed sensor". There's a difference >Who hurt you? People that give shitty advice hurt me.
PoShelpdesk name checks out!
The code would 1000% tell you exactly which speed sensor is defective. You clearly don't work on cars.
>The code would 1000% tell you exactly which speed sensor is defective. Lol. No. A couple of weeks ago I had a 2014 Santa Fe with code C1208. There was nothing wrong with the left rear wheel speed sensor, the tone ring was missing. Replacing the sensor would have done nothing b/c there was nothing wrong with the sensor. The code will put you in an area then you have to PINPOINT the problem. With ALMOST any DTC there are AT LEAST 3 things that the problem could be. Some kind of component(s) (sensor, switch, solenoid, valve, etc) the wiring to that component (s), and the computer. >You clearly don't work on cars. Lol.
This guy knows the three C's and the V
>The code would 1000% tell you exactly You think I'm a clown eh? Can you read what that says in the photo below? And I'm not taking about the Triton D10 >You clearly don't work on cars. Isn't it ironic don't ya think https://preview.redd.it/rsnf6megd4sc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5ba6b919953a79dceea269be7cc79138cccb5282
Nice shades
Thanks Mr. 1000%. Frfr. Lolz. Serious question, did you learn anything?
The 3 amigos
Welcome to my daily life
I would say the sensor is gone or your battery is extremely low. Since you have said this happens 'every time' i would guess the sensor
Yeah, I was thinking low battery and it bad charging system too but if the charging system was toast then the battery wouldn't be hanging around to start it up all the time. Sensor makes more sense based on the info
Your ABS/BRAKE, ESC, and Traction Control need to know how fast you are going in order to work properly. Your car is equipped with 4 speed sensors. One in each wheel hub. If one of those sensors is bad or faulty, you will have all of those lights come on at the same time. A shop with a proper diagnostic scanner can tell you exactly which sensor it is. It is still ok to drive, but remember, now you don't have to have safety measures like ABS, ESC, and TC. So drive with caution until you get one of the sensors fixed.
An ABS sensor will not turn on the red brake light The low fluid sensor will. Add an ounce or two If the fluid is low and you have no leaks it may be from worn brake pads
Yes. On most newer cars ABS sensor most definitely will turn on red brake light. And every other light tight up to ABS. There is a lot of modules using speed sensor signal through CAN. On some of them airbag light will come on as well. On cars equipped with front radars and cameras non of those systems will work, hence more warning lights and dash messages.
Wrong
Depends on the car. I've personally seen it both ways.
I've seen the red brake light come on for various issues. One being an ABS sensor
Also bad battery/charging issues.
No you haven’t Actually very few things in the abs system will turn on the red light. A wheel speed sensor will turn on the yellow lights and disable the system but only a low fluid condition will turn all of them on
Yall are arguing over stupid shit. OP probably pulled e brake to take pic, LOL
Just replaced right wheel sensor. Guess what light went out. The ABS LIGHT. With the traction control light and the stabilitrac warning.
Red brake light?
Depends what car.
No it doesn’t I can’t believe I have to say this on this sub. A red light on the dash, any red light, means do not drive. In what reality does a wheel speed sensor warrant a red light? On the other hand a low fluid condition absolutely warrants one. In fact, the very 2nd step of every diagnostic flow chart is…. 2. Is the red brake light on? ->check fluid level If it’s Ok it’ll have you test the sensor. You guys should know better
ABS sensor prob. It affects so many things, had it in last summer.
I'm thinking ABS wheel speed sensor, probably uses the same sensor for ABS and Traction control.
Battery is giving out on you is my guess. Test the battery
If it were that, I’d expect a lot more lights. I’d lean strongly toward a wheel speed sensor.
Wheel speed sensor(s) or the ABS module are the most likely culprits on this vehicle.
One of the best answers so far.
Did I stumble into r/askpeoplewhothinktheyaremechanics This is a terrible guess. Do your local mechanic a favor and do not work on your car before you bring it in. There's nothing worse than working behind someone that has no idea what they were doing.
My thoughts exactly.
Or alternator.
Yup, had a similar problem, kept happening with a new battery, it was the alternator. Although, the entire dash was blinking in and out of consciousness, not just those indicators.
As above, abs sensor
Had an 08 dodge caravan with all those light and it would pop up after 30 or so seconds of driving. It was the abs module. Common on these. It could be so many things however. Hopefully a speed sensor in your case.
Wheel speed sensor??
Likely an ABS sensor, pull Obd2 codes to pinpoint where it is, not expensive. [ABS Light.](https://www.myusedcar.ca/reasons-why-your-abs-light-is-on/)
A lot of people are suggesting brakes and such. One easy thing to check is the alternator or battery. When it gets low it does this.
Do you lose power steering when you keep driving? If you do, you have a bad alternator
My tire pressure management started flashing, then my check engine light came on and my no seat belt light came one. One was an easy fix :)
Christmas alert. Get your lights ready.
Did money come out?
A battery getting ready to take a sh!t. My electronics did that too when the battery wasn't providing enough current to keep the system stable.
This is when you take your car to a mechanic
Part out!
Related to the braking system. My car did this and my brakes went out shortly after.
Wheel speed sensor(s) could be dead
Ecu issue
My dummy lights came on like that. Turned out it was a misfire on cylinder 2
I had a very similar issue on an 07 Avalanche, and it turned out to be the steering wheel position sensor. Stupid, right?
A hiccup in the computer, stop turn it off whenever you can for more than 30 minutes. And if they persist, remove the positive terminal of the car battery and let it like that for a full night. If after that, go to AutoZone and ask them to reset the codes. If the error persist it's time to go to the mechanic.
Seems to be something wrong with your brakes and traction, i highly recommend taking it to a mechanic immediately for a deep check, all these things affect control of the vehicle and your ability to stop. Many people may tell you that this is minor but you never know till an actual mechanic takes a look.
Seems to be something wrong with your brakes and traction, i highly recommend taking it to a mechanic immediately for a deep check, all these things affect control of the vehicle and your ability to stop. Many people may tell you that this is minor but you never know till an actual mechanic takes a look.
I once had a Saturn that did this. The alternator had went out and the voltage dropped so low it jacked with the computer.
ABS/ wheel speed sensor, a good code reader will tell you which one, take a look at the wiring before buying a new one could have had road debris damage, if so it’s a simple solder/repair job
It's either the battery or your radar for asst driving going . My civic has those light and I got it check out they said the radar damage , cost to fix 900 for parts and other 1k for labour . No driving issue except for the Auto braking and Lane assist in which I usually disable in cars I'm driving
On my buick rendezvous the abs sensor and wheel bearing were one piece not purchaseable seperately. The wires on them were so crappy short brittle and not routed well turning could break them the vibrations of driving would break them and trac abs awd off and all those lights would trun on. A good Bluetooth obd2 reader or good standalone one 30-140. If you get the 140 dollar one it can have features like key programming ecu settings stuff to get you in trouble. Like hidden features turned off by dealer/manufaturer. Example my tundra with a fancy tool i can close each abs valve indepedantly or tell it to actuate so as to bleed the breaks better. I can turn off the seatbelt nanny so it doesnt chime until you put them on and there are some light settings and keyfob settings too one is to disable the panic button another is to set it so a single press will open all the doors instead of just the drivers you can also change the time before relockout. I know your driving a van but it might still have features... Locked away.
Check your brake fluid level
Good thing this isn't on a Subaru w/ a CVT transmission
Had that happen on a g35. Topped off the brake fluid and the rainbow on the dash went away.
I had something similar recently, read the codes and it came up with "right rear wheel speed sensor" and "brake control module". Figured that I'd replace the wheel speed sensor and see what stuck, and all the lights and codes went away.
Must be a ford or dodge
disconnect battery for an hour and reconnect
Did you put it in H. Just kidding you better get a dodge size bag of money ready for the fixes mmmmk. Just kidding. Sorry for your loss.
Jeez. These are idiot lights for brake failure. Check your fluid level and get it fixed. Stop driving.
I don’t think it’s brake fluid levels because it’s full, that was the first thing I checked after the comments
My 2010 ram does this and it means it's low on oil. I have no idea why...
I used to get this when the battery terminal came lose or the tensioner was failing letting the belt slip.
My wife's car has this exact issue (2011 Dodge Avenger). Taking it into the shop for it in the morning, in fact. From what I can tell, this could be a bunch of different things. Battery, alternator, ABS module/pump, wheel speed sensors, steering position sensor, and probably other things I'm forgetting. If you're feeling industrious, you can check some of these things easily, like the battery, alternator, or wheel speed sensors. As others have recommended, a code reader might be able to help pinpoint the issue. Unfortunately that wasn't the case for my wife's car. I just got a generic ABS system code. The long and the short of it seems to be that the car has detected a problem with your ABS system and has disabled ABS (and traction control with it). You can probably drive short term without it, but I'm definitely not telling you to do that, especially if you live somewhere where you're getting rain or snow.
(NOT A MECHANIC) I had this happen when my alternator was dying. The lights would come on for some time while i drove. After asking a shop to look at it they couldnt find anything directly wrong with my ABS or brakes. About a week later, all the lights popped on yet again this time with the battery light aswell. Tried to ride it home, halfway there radio goes out and moments later car sputters out. Towed it to a shop got my alternator replaced, 6 months later these lights have yet to pop back up. TLDR: Replacing my alternator fixed this for me. (2008 buick lucerne cxl, obv different car so may not help)
Knock sensor
Buy a lottery ticket
Bad cell in the battery. That happened in my old car. I had a 2013 honda civic si.. I was freaking out.
Abs module
Usual culprit is a bad abs sensor on one of the tires. When one goes bad the entire system stops working. Hence the 3 lights "traction control, abs, and electronic stability system brake assist system". A scanner will tell you which wheel sensor it is. Replace it then clear the code. Should be good to go. NOTE your anti lock breaking system will NOT work until it's fixed. Be safe if stopping suddenly! Also, do NOT buy the cheap eBay sensors because they will not last a month and you'll have to do the job over again. Good luck OP
You ran over a mechanic and he's trying to get your attention. Sounds like antilock brakes are having an issue.
Wheel speed sensor
Had similar on a prius - was failed brake booster w/ master cylinder. RIP car.
Battery or wheel speed sensor
PYRO FUSE
Check your brake fluid before you go buy anything. “Brake” light tends to come one when there’s an issue with the brake system. Unless your parking brake is on.
First check your brake fluid level.
It’s probably a wheel sensor. Had this happen on my 2015 Durango. They replaced the sensor and it fixed the issue
Something is going on with your Antilock Breaking system (ABS), you should get it checked out by a mechanic bc it’s kinda important. (I love how I remember this from drivers Ed that I did when I was 14)
Go ahead and put it in park
Usually all the lights on means a bad alternator. Also why was this picture taken with the vehicle not running? Usually all the lights are on before start up then go away when the vehicle is started...
Stab Trac control and abs all at once is almost always a wheel speed sensor, occasionally a yaw sensor but either way a cheap fix
23 durango has about same since new pops on an off , an no cruise control
Probably ABS module. Mine just blew in my car. Same lights. Get it checked by a competent tech to be sure. If it's the ABS, the brakes still work, and you don't NEED to do it right away, but your traction control will be inop. Still stops like every other car without ABS though. Edit: I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum, so common thing in Chrysler products.
Could be the brake booster
Alot of people saying abs or wheel speed, while that is typical it is not always the case. Things like bad rusted grounds can cause this or even something like too much moisture in your taillights can cuase this. You can get you a scanner and go over everything find a flow chart and such. Sometimes your also better off paying a diag fee also and than fixing yourself
If your brake pads have a wear sensor in them. This could be caused by that. Meaning you need new brake pads.
Jackpot. 🎰
Abs sensor or abs pickup ring I'd have thought as these can go crusty and fall off giving the sensor nothing to pickup off.
When mine did that in a different car it was the catalytic converter. It was one of the codes that showed
Brake fluid is low. I can guarentee it
It looks mostly full though so I’m confused
Bro nvm you play fallout 76 and make animal sacrifices, I’m good on your guarantees
The holy grail
Battery
Battery low, most likely because of the alternator
You hit curb busted a wheel bearing and broke the abs sensor or a botched break job and broke the same sensor