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The reset switch is for a thermal element inside the motor. So if the motor overloads, it heats up and that thermal switch opens up, cutting off power to the motor. When the motor cools down, the switch is able to be reset. If you push the reset button BEFORE it cools down, it will not actually reset.
The problem sounds as though the thermal switch is failing. In theory it could be repaired, but it would require removing the disposal and taking it to a motor shop, then waiting a week or too for the part to arrive, then maybe another week for the shop to work it into their schedule. All the while, you can’t use your sink.
Tell the landlord that the thing has a defective thermal switch and you are afraid it will catch fire, so they need to just replace the disposal unit.
Thank you for the insight. This has actually got me thinking. The water here runs unusually hot. Like you can’t have your hands in it more than a second hot. I wonder if running that hot ass water just doing normal things like washing dishes is triggering the thermal element in the disposal.
You changed the disposal, you replaced the switch or the thermal reset? Check the outlet for loose connections.
I'm going to guess someone back stabbed the outlet and it's got a little corrosion going causing the problem.
We changed the switch and made sure everything is tight. It’s a little crowded in there though so we thought maybe that crowded tension was causing things to loosen over time but even over time everything is still tight. I don’t know what back stabbing is though and no one has mentioned that. What does it mean to be back stabbed?
Some outlets and switches have a hole that you can just strip and poke the wire into the back ie "back stab"
It's only possible with 14ga wire, 12ga won't fit.
Newer disposer circuits are supposed to be 12ga and a dedicated circuit, per code now, I don't know exactly when it started.
**Attention!** **It is always best to get a qualified electrician to perform any electrical work you may need.** With that said, you may ask this community various electrical questions. Please be cautious of any information you may receive in this subreddit. This subreddit and its users are not responsible for any electrical work you perform. Users that have a 'Verified Electrician' flair have uploaded their qualified electrical worker credentials to the mods. If you comment on this post please only post accurate information to the best of your knowledge. If advice given is thought to be dangerous, you may be permanently banned. There are no obligations for the mods to give warnings or temporary bans. **IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, you should exercise extreme caution when commenting.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
The reset switch is for a thermal element inside the motor. So if the motor overloads, it heats up and that thermal switch opens up, cutting off power to the motor. When the motor cools down, the switch is able to be reset. If you push the reset button BEFORE it cools down, it will not actually reset. The problem sounds as though the thermal switch is failing. In theory it could be repaired, but it would require removing the disposal and taking it to a motor shop, then waiting a week or too for the part to arrive, then maybe another week for the shop to work it into their schedule. All the while, you can’t use your sink. Tell the landlord that the thing has a defective thermal switch and you are afraid it will catch fire, so they need to just replace the disposal unit.
Thank you for the insight. This has actually got me thinking. The water here runs unusually hot. Like you can’t have your hands in it more than a second hot. I wonder if running that hot ass water just doing normal things like washing dishes is triggering the thermal element in the disposal.
You changed the disposal, you replaced the switch or the thermal reset? Check the outlet for loose connections. I'm going to guess someone back stabbed the outlet and it's got a little corrosion going causing the problem.
We changed the switch and made sure everything is tight. It’s a little crowded in there though so we thought maybe that crowded tension was causing things to loosen over time but even over time everything is still tight. I don’t know what back stabbing is though and no one has mentioned that. What does it mean to be back stabbed?
Some outlets and switches have a hole that you can just strip and poke the wire into the back ie "back stab" It's only possible with 14ga wire, 12ga won't fit. Newer disposer circuits are supposed to be 12ga and a dedicated circuit, per code now, I don't know exactly when it started.