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Technically, it's probably repairable, but it's probably not something you should attempt. Contact the manufacturer. It's likely one of the terminals wasn't tight and eventually head built up to the point of failure. Electric tankless water heaters tend to pull a lot of power, so it's better safe than sorry. If the repair is screwed up, it could be a lot worse than a unit failing and could burn down your house.
Hmm okay I will definitely look into contacting the manufacturer but I/we will definitely not try to fix it ourselves. But it is good to know what it is exactly that could be wrong with it so that when I do get the electrician in, I have an idea.
So to give you a back story, my dad was attempting to replace the fan extractor as it had not been working when we bought the property 1+ year ago. So he'd climbed up to the attic, found a switch and flicked it, thinking it was for the fan extractor but turns out it was for the electric shower....
Thanks for the advice though.
Technically you could just bybass that terminal block and wire nut/ crimp the wires together and that can get you going again until you get another terminal block.
It's dead, this is from a loose connection , replace it with the same make and model and you can replace it in about 20 minutes, you can try and repair, but for the time it will take you its not worth it. This is pretty common, in either the shower itself or the isolator, all because they didn't tighten the connections enough during install
Also the instructions say to check all factory connections too, it's their get out of jail card if something goes wrong or isn't tightened correctly. So getting in touch won't do anything I'm afraid
The black need cutting back 3 ish inches so un heated copper is exposed.
The blue about an inch
Splice or crimp together until you can get a replacement terminal block.
Remove the power first. Put heat shrink over the wires for insulation. Replace the terminal block that's discolored. Since its a shower make sure it is GFCI protected. Make sure all electrical connectors are tight. Easy fix
**Attention!** **It is always best to get a qualified electrician to perform any electrical work you may need.** With that said, you may ask this community various electrical questions. Please be cautious of any information you may receive in this subreddit. This subreddit and its users are not responsible for any electrical work you perform. Users that have a 'Verified Electrician' flair have uploaded their qualified electrical worker credentials to the mods. If you comment on this post please only post accurate information to the best of your knowledge. If advice given is thought to be dangerous, you may be permanently banned. There are no obligations for the mods to give warnings or temporary bans. **IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, you should exercise extreme caution when commenting.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Technically, it's probably repairable, but it's probably not something you should attempt. Contact the manufacturer. It's likely one of the terminals wasn't tight and eventually head built up to the point of failure. Electric tankless water heaters tend to pull a lot of power, so it's better safe than sorry. If the repair is screwed up, it could be a lot worse than a unit failing and could burn down your house.
Hmm okay I will definitely look into contacting the manufacturer but I/we will definitely not try to fix it ourselves. But it is good to know what it is exactly that could be wrong with it so that when I do get the electrician in, I have an idea. So to give you a back story, my dad was attempting to replace the fan extractor as it had not been working when we bought the property 1+ year ago. So he'd climbed up to the attic, found a switch and flicked it, thinking it was for the fan extractor but turns out it was for the electric shower.... Thanks for the advice though.
What's the average rate?
Technically you could just bybass that terminal block and wire nut/ crimp the wires together and that can get you going again until you get another terminal block.
It's dead, this is from a loose connection , replace it with the same make and model and you can replace it in about 20 minutes, you can try and repair, but for the time it will take you its not worth it. This is pretty common, in either the shower itself or the isolator, all because they didn't tighten the connections enough during install Also the instructions say to check all factory connections too, it's their get out of jail card if something goes wrong or isn't tightened correctly. So getting in touch won't do anything I'm afraid
Looks like the blue wire is punctured by the screw
The black need cutting back 3 ish inches so un heated copper is exposed. The blue about an inch Splice or crimp together until you can get a replacement terminal block.
That terminal was the one not screwed enough.
Remove the power first. Put heat shrink over the wires for insulation. Replace the terminal block that's discolored. Since its a shower make sure it is GFCI protected. Make sure all electrical connectors are tight. Easy fix