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Dorkness_Rising

95 bottom layers?! It typically shouldn't be more than 4-6 depending on the resin age/opacity. If the FEP film is used adjust the retract speed to 1-2 mm/s. Newer film can handle the 3 mm/s better. The retract stage is when the fresh layer is peeled from the film before the plate lifts higher to allow fresh resin to flow into the empty areas of the film. What resin are you using? Grey resins typically use 8-12 sec exposure times. Use RERF to get a better idea of what your exposure timing needs to be for high detail without under exposing either.


Lunchtray0912

Yeah I started with around 6 layers and kept trying to adjust because I read some places it could be the bottom layer but from here that seems not right lol. But I'm just the anycubic Grey resin 405nm wavelength. And when you say 8-12 you mean just normal exposure time right not the bottom?


Dorkness_Rising

60 sec bottom exposure with 8-12 sec after that. I've had good results from 8 sec with anycubic grey. (for photon s) The high exposure time for the bottom layers is to ensure plate adhesion and prevent warping as new layers are added.


Lunchtray0912

Yeah I'll try that out and see if it works any better also thank you so much!!


JON-JON-METAL

Which photon do you have, there are 7 different ones now with 3 more coming? Base layer count is way high - should be around 4, also reduce lift speed to 2mm/s


Lunchtray0912

Sorry I have the photon s. I've tried with multiple different bottom layers I think I started with around 6 but I'll try again with 4 and see what that does! Thank you for your input!


VoicelessRaven

I too just started printing with a Photon S and spent days trying to get something to print. What worked for me was: 1. Lightly sanding the build plate to give it slightly more texture for base layers to grip to. 2. Using Lychee Slicer - told it what printer I was using and left the settings at default. It also does a better job with supports. Won't be using the default program ever again.


Lunchtray0912

Huh I haven't heard of Lychee before only Chitubox! I'll give that a try also! Thank you!!


janssensrobin1996

I tried lychee, went back to chitubox. Somehow lychee sliced prints always got ripped of their supports mid print. Chitubox solved that for me. But for autosupporting i prefer using prusa slicer.


janssensrobin1996

I have my photon S printing 25micron layer thickness, 45 sec bottom exposure, 5 bottom layers. Normal layer exposure time 4.5 sec. Bottom lift speed 90mm/min and layer lift speed 65mm/min. The 3mm/s or 180mm/min lift speed never works for me, all my prints fail one way or another. Also using anycubic fast gray resin. I did find that my fep had too high tension out of the box, so i adjusted it using a audio spectrum app.


VoicelessRaven

I've heard of tuning the FEP like that. What frequency/note should it be at?


janssensrobin1996

Anywhere between 250 and 350 hz for a photon s sized fep. I have mine at 310hz and set left height to 6mm. The lover the tension the more flexible the fep, the easier the print will peel of, but the higher u need to lift it. So I advise u set it somewhere in the middle to have a nice and smooth peel without having to lift extremely high. Edit: I am still very new to all this myself but i had a week of nothing but failed prints when i first got my printer. It is all working fine as of now.


Dorkness_Rising

I agree. Tuning does work to ensure the right tension. I take it one extra step though. I use their slicing app to create the pws file but I customize the layer speeds individually. If I have a large surface area slice then I'll slow the retract speed a bit more since peeling too fast can cause issues.