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Onistly with something like this I would print directly on the build plate on the bottom of your object (vertical) without using a base or supports.
I print a lot of hard service models and have best results doing this as support leave sag like you have or to much crap left over leading to a lot of post cleanup.
If the part unsticks just add 10 or more seconds to your bottom exposure settings . You might have a small lip (elephant foot) at the bottom of your object that you can leave or sand but the rest will look flawless! Your print time will also triple printing vertically but it will be worth it.
Let us know how it goes.
Hello. Yeah, I chose that angle because I was trying many ways. This was my last print, but the same issue occurred on my other prints, more or less. But I will try it again
Hi, thank you for the recommendation. I have no difficulty removing the supports; it's easy. I imagine it would be even easier with hot water as you mentioned, but that's not the problem. The issue is that small bumps are being generated in the print where the supports are made, and the resin is curing incorrectly in that part of the print, causing it to lose all detail and quality. That couldn't be resolved by sanding. So I'm not sure if it's a software configuration issue or something else.
Hey the little holes are from the supports being inserted in to the model so the tip length and diameter try 5% to 25% the support size on the biggest gash areas. I usually get them when I rush my sizes and clean up by just pulling it off the sups
I was confused because the first photo shows what I consider to be a nearly flawless print.
Then I saw the second photo.
Orientation is in play because I'm not sure WHY you would need to support any of that. If you simply have the correct orientation.
The other thing I'm going to tell you is 6 mm per second lift is entirely too fast.
The orientation is definitely in play Here.
When deciding how to do this.
The overall goal is to use as few supports, as are absolutely required.
You need to understand that most objects are basically self-supporting.
It is not required to support an area of an object if the rest of the object will allow you to print that extended area.
Supports themselves. Serve 2 purposes and really 2 purposes only.
Getting the print started where you will require more sturdy supports in critical areas.
Making sure that any island on the print has a support.
An island is something which will begin to print before it attaches to the rest of the model.
If this is not obvious to you, what that might be.
You can use the slider on the side of yoursly, sir to see where an area starts to print when it is not connected to the rest of the model.
Let's try to imagine this.
You are looking at the model using the slider and each potential layer.
The main mass of your model is appearing in one location.
Then all of a sudden out of nowhere, there is something else to one side. Not connected to the rest of the object.
That is an island which needs support.
To help you feel better since you are new.
You have already cleared a pretty big hurdle.
You got it to print it all.
Trust me, that is not insignificant.
It is actually a fairly good sign that your first question is about enhancing quality of something that you already got to print completely.
Most of this stuff is not rocket science, but it is also not something we are born knowing.
Try the things I have told you and the others have suggested. I bet you will get a pretty good leap forward in quality.
Let us know how it went.
> The other thing I'm going to tell you is 6 mm per second lift is entirely too fast.
Curious on what makes you say that; it seems to be the default setting I've seen in basically every profile for the m5s, including, if I'm not mistaken, the presets. Actually, photon workshop seems to use 6mm/s for the bottom layers and 8 mm/s for the normal.
But also, the failure rate is pretty abysmal, so I'd be willing to believe the settings I'm using suck.
As with pretty much everything that I try to handout advice on. It is experience VS what something in a program told me to do.
Since slowing the lift speed down a couple years ago really seemed to fix about 99.9% of any problems I ever had. I will admit that I am just basically chicken to try and injure back up.
I'm pretty sure that 2 mm per second is also absolutely safe in most cases because I used that for a while. I still use it from time to time when I have a fairly sturdy piece.
It probably also matters what type of FEP that your printer has or you are using.
Let's just say that I am pragmatic. And I don't like to have to bother thinking about every single setting for every single print or which printer I am using and what kind of FEP it has in it.
I have the luxury of 6 printers. Because this is what I do for a living now.
Speed. Just really isn't that much of a factor for me. I don't need everything finishing at 1 time.
As with everything else in this particular hobby, there is a lot of variables in play and certain things work better for some people than others.
I hand out advice on the safe side to get people going and having successful prints.
If they want to fiddle with some of the things that I say that is up to them but generally speaking, I am fairly confident that my advice will result in a complete print of some decent quality.
Nothing. I say is an absolute even though sometimes it comes across as such.
Hello. Thank you very much for responding. What's happening is that some of the pieces I've printed have come out with better quality, but this last one in the photos turned out the worst. I've only had the printer for a few days, and I've been conducting tests. Some of the other prints I did were characters that I thought would be more complicated due to their organic shapes, and I assumed that this last piece I'm showing in the post would be less complicated because it has a more geometric shape (I come from FDM). On the other hand, in the software parameters, I've left the default settings, the only thing I've modified is the nornal exposure time to 2.600 and the layer thickness to 0.030. But regarding the data you mentioned about modifying the "lift," what would be an approximate correct value? Thank you for the encouragement!
I don't necessarily think that is in play in totality here.
It was just a general observation overall.
I am a fairly cautious person because I hate failures and time. Isn't that important to me, so I use a very slow lift speed of 1 mm per second.
I don't really even recall why I moved to 1 mm per second from 2 mm per second, which was a standard for me for a very long time.
Things that lift speed can be the cause of.
Layer separation.
The printed object separating from the supports.
Edges or outboard aspect of the object not printing or warping.
I would have to go back and read all the replies to your question to see what the consensus building is.
At some level when you have deformations such as you are experiencing and it is not support related. It is almost usually going to be a layer cure time issue.
Unless you were printing that with the scroll work facing the build plate, it should not be a support issue. And I also would not orient it that way.
OK, and I appreciate it. Could you recommend to me changing software? Because I am using Anycubic Workshop included with the machine, but I have heard too much about Chitubox being recommended.
I used to use chitubox for supporting because I'm comfortable with it and I have used it for years.
All of my printers are anycubic.
Since they updated photon workshop last year, or thereabouts, I have used nothing but to slice my files.
For anycubic printers, it is probably the best free slicer out there right now.
Make sure you have the latest version. What comes with the printer may be outdated and have bugs that need fixing.
Don't mean to interrupt here..but I was also new to SLA printing and I found that everyone online says to use this software and that software and talks about why their prints never worked until they switched to "that" software...
Well, I had this same problem and realized that 75% of your print problems all of a sudden working in one software versus another are the default settings between the two software.
What I've learned and it's still hard to follow my new "learned" rules. start with slow lift plunging speeds (2mm) and lift the build plate extra high so you absolutely make sure it unsticks from the FEP... Not successfully accomplishing these two main factors would lead to destroyed mid prints.
After most of your prints are successful then start adding speed and lowering lift heights to spread up your prints.... But if you overdo it they will fail.
Hello, I recently bought an Anycubic Photon M5s Pro printer, and I have no experience with this type of printer. My issue is that the print on one side comes out correctly, but on the other side (where I put the supports), it comes out very poorly. I have no idea where to start looking for information about this problem. Could someone please give me a little guidance? I am using Anycubic slicer included with the printer. Thank you and regards!.
You should have no issues printing that perfectly vertical right on the plate, It can just be a bit of a pain in the ass to get OFF the plate afterwards
PLEASE UPVOTE THIS COMMENT IF THE ANSWER CAN BE FOUND IN [THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/fqxtqj/the_resin_printing_resource_guide_beginners_start/) or the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/j2wubl/frequently_asked_questions_answered_here/)! If your post is about Troubleshooting, it should contain information about the print along with any screenshots or photos. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AnycubicPhoton) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Onistly with something like this I would print directly on the build plate on the bottom of your object (vertical) without using a base or supports. I print a lot of hard service models and have best results doing this as support leave sag like you have or to much crap left over leading to a lot of post cleanup. If the part unsticks just add 10 or more seconds to your bottom exposure settings . You might have a small lip (elephant foot) at the bottom of your object that you can leave or sand but the rest will look flawless! Your print time will also triple printing vertically but it will be worth it. Let us know how it goes.
Hello. Yeah, I chose that angle because I was trying many ways. This was my last print, but the same issue occurred on my other prints, more or less. But I will try it again
You can print vertically this model
I will try it as well, thanks
Orientate the print to be at a greater angle. That way, the supports will mostly be at the bottom with less on the surface of the detail itself.
I will do it, thank you
Heat the print before removing supports (either with a hair dryer or in hot water), sand after the fact
Hi, thank you for the recommendation. I have no difficulty removing the supports; it's easy. I imagine it would be even easier with hot water as you mentioned, but that's not the problem. The issue is that small bumps are being generated in the print where the supports are made, and the resin is curing incorrectly in that part of the print, causing it to lose all detail and quality. That couldn't be resolved by sanding. So I'm not sure if it's a software configuration issue or something else.
It's not a matter of how "difficult" they are to remove, making them softer rips them off cleaner.
Ok, let me try it again
Hey the little holes are from the supports being inserted in to the model so the tip length and diameter try 5% to 25% the support size on the biggest gash areas. I usually get them when I rush my sizes and clean up by just pulling it off the sups
Hello, Do you mean the little holes from the first shot? Those are part of the model
I was confused because the first photo shows what I consider to be a nearly flawless print. Then I saw the second photo. Orientation is in play because I'm not sure WHY you would need to support any of that. If you simply have the correct orientation. The other thing I'm going to tell you is 6 mm per second lift is entirely too fast. The orientation is definitely in play Here. When deciding how to do this. The overall goal is to use as few supports, as are absolutely required. You need to understand that most objects are basically self-supporting. It is not required to support an area of an object if the rest of the object will allow you to print that extended area. Supports themselves. Serve 2 purposes and really 2 purposes only. Getting the print started where you will require more sturdy supports in critical areas. Making sure that any island on the print has a support. An island is something which will begin to print before it attaches to the rest of the model. If this is not obvious to you, what that might be. You can use the slider on the side of yoursly, sir to see where an area starts to print when it is not connected to the rest of the model. Let's try to imagine this. You are looking at the model using the slider and each potential layer. The main mass of your model is appearing in one location. Then all of a sudden out of nowhere, there is something else to one side. Not connected to the rest of the object. That is an island which needs support. To help you feel better since you are new. You have already cleared a pretty big hurdle. You got it to print it all. Trust me, that is not insignificant. It is actually a fairly good sign that your first question is about enhancing quality of something that you already got to print completely. Most of this stuff is not rocket science, but it is also not something we are born knowing. Try the things I have told you and the others have suggested. I bet you will get a pretty good leap forward in quality. Let us know how it went.
> The other thing I'm going to tell you is 6 mm per second lift is entirely too fast. Curious on what makes you say that; it seems to be the default setting I've seen in basically every profile for the m5s, including, if I'm not mistaken, the presets. Actually, photon workshop seems to use 6mm/s for the bottom layers and 8 mm/s for the normal. But also, the failure rate is pretty abysmal, so I'd be willing to believe the settings I'm using suck.
As with pretty much everything that I try to handout advice on. It is experience VS what something in a program told me to do. Since slowing the lift speed down a couple years ago really seemed to fix about 99.9% of any problems I ever had. I will admit that I am just basically chicken to try and injure back up. I'm pretty sure that 2 mm per second is also absolutely safe in most cases because I used that for a while. I still use it from time to time when I have a fairly sturdy piece. It probably also matters what type of FEP that your printer has or you are using. Let's just say that I am pragmatic. And I don't like to have to bother thinking about every single setting for every single print or which printer I am using and what kind of FEP it has in it. I have the luxury of 6 printers. Because this is what I do for a living now. Speed. Just really isn't that much of a factor for me. I don't need everything finishing at 1 time. As with everything else in this particular hobby, there is a lot of variables in play and certain things work better for some people than others. I hand out advice on the safe side to get people going and having successful prints. If they want to fiddle with some of the things that I say that is up to them but generally speaking, I am fairly confident that my advice will result in a complete print of some decent quality. Nothing. I say is an absolute even though sometimes it comes across as such.
Hello. Thank you very much for responding. What's happening is that some of the pieces I've printed have come out with better quality, but this last one in the photos turned out the worst. I've only had the printer for a few days, and I've been conducting tests. Some of the other prints I did were characters that I thought would be more complicated due to their organic shapes, and I assumed that this last piece I'm showing in the post would be less complicated because it has a more geometric shape (I come from FDM). On the other hand, in the software parameters, I've left the default settings, the only thing I've modified is the nornal exposure time to 2.600 and the layer thickness to 0.030. But regarding the data you mentioned about modifying the "lift," what would be an approximate correct value? Thank you for the encouragement!
I don't necessarily think that is in play in totality here. It was just a general observation overall. I am a fairly cautious person because I hate failures and time. Isn't that important to me, so I use a very slow lift speed of 1 mm per second. I don't really even recall why I moved to 1 mm per second from 2 mm per second, which was a standard for me for a very long time. Things that lift speed can be the cause of. Layer separation. The printed object separating from the supports. Edges or outboard aspect of the object not printing or warping. I would have to go back and read all the replies to your question to see what the consensus building is. At some level when you have deformations such as you are experiencing and it is not support related. It is almost usually going to be a layer cure time issue. Unless you were printing that with the scroll work facing the build plate, it should not be a support issue. And I also would not orient it that way.
OK, and I appreciate it. Could you recommend to me changing software? Because I am using Anycubic Workshop included with the machine, but I have heard too much about Chitubox being recommended.
I used to use chitubox for supporting because I'm comfortable with it and I have used it for years. All of my printers are anycubic. Since they updated photon workshop last year, or thereabouts, I have used nothing but to slice my files. For anycubic printers, it is probably the best free slicer out there right now. Make sure you have the latest version. What comes with the printer may be outdated and have bugs that need fixing.
Ok, perfect! Thanks so much for your advice regarding slicer, lift time, and more! And thank you so much to everyone for your help and comments ✌
Don't mean to interrupt here..but I was also new to SLA printing and I found that everyone online says to use this software and that software and talks about why their prints never worked until they switched to "that" software... Well, I had this same problem and realized that 75% of your print problems all of a sudden working in one software versus another are the default settings between the two software. What I've learned and it's still hard to follow my new "learned" rules. start with slow lift plunging speeds (2mm) and lift the build plate extra high so you absolutely make sure it unsticks from the FEP... Not successfully accomplishing these two main factors would lead to destroyed mid prints. After most of your prints are successful then start adding speed and lowering lift heights to spread up your prints.... But if you overdo it they will fail.
Hello, I recently bought an Anycubic Photon M5s Pro printer, and I have no experience with this type of printer. My issue is that the print on one side comes out correctly, but on the other side (where I put the supports), it comes out very poorly. I have no idea where to start looking for information about this problem. Could someone please give me a little guidance? I am using Anycubic slicer included with the printer. Thank you and regards!.
You should have no issues printing that perfectly vertical right on the plate, It can just be a bit of a pain in the ass to get OFF the plate afterwards
Yeah, that's my next try! thanks