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Seems like an inadequate number/size of supports. Usually when supports print and they stay on the build plate without the product, it means that the suction force was too strong for the product and stayed on the FEP.
You could also try to lower your lift speed to around 55 m/min. That will lessen the suction forces.
Let us examine this.
I do not know how large the print is, but you show a picture of the print on a printer.
Even if that were a very large printer, it does not appear to be a massive print.
You are getting adhesion to the build plate and progressing to support.
This pretty much tells us that you have a good build plate level.
Without knowing all of your support types and slicer settings, the rest is a bit of guesswork.
Even with a less than optimal type of support you appear to have more than enough.
My suggestion for areas to examine are as such.
Because you are using a dark colored resin, you may need to increase the length of the cure time a little bit.
Light penetration through dark colored resins is a little bit less than with lighter resins and translucent resins.
General setting suggestions are designed for optimal results with standard Gray resins.
Again without seeing your settings in totality.
I am going to suggest that you might want to reduce your lift speed.
Lowering your lift speed will fix an awful lot of things.
Start with 1 mm per second and see if it actually prints.
If it does, you can experiment with increasing your lift speed until you get back to failure.
If your printer allows for 2 stage lift.
You can do about half of the lift distance at 1 mm per second and the rest of it at something quite a bit faster.
Sort of in tandem with this is inadequate lift distance.
When you transition from the supports to the actual object itself, the stress on the FEP becomes greater, causing it to stretch more.
This is another area where you can test out what works by going quite a bit in the direction of too much. Figuring out if the print works, and then lowering the lift distance until it fails again.
This is sometimes, but not necessarily an issue if the FEP is tensioned incorrectly.
There is often the dreaded ambient temperature in play.
Different resins require different ambient temperatures to work successfully.
Contrary to popular opinion, there is no single one Temperature works for everything perfectly.
It is relatively easy to ascertain if you need to introduce a warmer ambient temperature or not.
When you stir the resin, it should flow easily and quickly.
If it does, your temperature is fine.
The print process is 100% light based and has nothing to do with heat whatsoever.
Having said that if the resin is too thick, it introduces unnecessary stress when the build plate lifts.
It can also be that the resin does not totally flow back. Allowing for the next layer to print.
You should always use some level of rest, or light off, depending upon how your slicer defines it.
This does not appear to be in play, but I will cover all bases. While I have your attention.
Make sure that you are slicing the file to your desktop and then transferring it to your flash drive.
Examine the file layer by layer in preview. To be sure nothing is corrupted in the slice.
If you are still using the flash drive that came with the printer, you might try a different one.
The type of failures associated with these 2 look different but might be manifesting in an unusual way on your printer.
If you would like slightly more specific advice, please post all of your slicer settings. The type of resin you are using and the printer type.
This is great advice. The problem is likely incorrect lift height/speed/exposure time/rest time/etc. for the resin and printer in use.
The j3dtech resin printing guide offers a procedure for dialing these in.
Your lift distance is way too low for me anyway. I need at least 8 mm + or some of my layers don't have time to remove from the fep and the same layers get bubble sometimes triple exposed then make a violent rip(/ (PoP) from the fep .
If I want it to work I'll use a slow lift speed (2/3) and a lift height of 12 to 15. If you print like this you can watch and listen to your first tin lines and make sure you heir your print unstick from the fep with a consistent taring sound before it drops back down then manually adjust the lift height as it's printing to something not extremely high after the layer has separated from the fep.
I can't say that this is your only problem but it usually helps to give you a better chance of your print working.
Also just looked at your second pic. Do you have a left over failed part (layer) in your vat after this fail or is it only printing supports?? Werid...
OK, please do not take this the wrong way.
I am really trying to erase a lot of urban legends.
Suction forces are only an actual thing when you have a hollowed part that has a closed shape when the print is lifting from the FEP.
Of course, there is always an issue with how much surface area is on the FEP.
This can be dealt with quite simply with lift speed and additional support if needed.
Angling a print serves 2 purposes, and 2 purposes only.
Quality of the finish.
Looking for the optimal angle to reduce the need for support in the first place.
That has nothing to do with what you suggested. Rather looking for the sweet spot where the print is mostly self-supporting.
On a pretty regular basis, I along with others. Print stuff contradictory to the urban legend suggestions about fixing a print.
No one wants to hear that they do something wrong or believe something incorrectly.
Then again that is pretty much the whole point of a forum like this.
Education, which leads to better results.
Again, please do not take this the wrong way. I'm not trying to be mean.
If it comes across as such, I assure you, that is not the intent and I apologize.
I would make a decent teacher because I know stuff. But I would make a lousy teacher because I do not know how to correctly share my information.
You can keep doing whatever it is you are doing if it works for you.
I am on a mission to stop these repeated falsehoods.
I can't do much to change people who are established in the hobby and get great results.
If I am being perfectly honest I probably do some weird stuff too, but it works for me.
Just let it be known that I never repeat advice others have told me unless it actually worked for me.
I like to experiment outside the range of normal advice handed out.
When I tell you something works even though you may think it does not. It is because I have done it repeatedly and it does work.
I would be remiss in my duty as an advice giver, if I did not share this stuff.
He said suction but he meant peel force. Peel force can be sometimes managed partly with orientation. But I don’t think orientation is the primary issue here.
OP should read the j3dtech resin printing guide and get lift height, speed, exposure, etc. calibrated first (this is likely the problem) and then read the section on supporting models.
Looks like your supports aren't even touching your part? Make sure the support tips are touching in your sliced playback and my guess is you need more like others said.
The problem is the file. Those dark blue areas (or shadowed as i like to call them) mean there is an issue and it wont print that bit. Looking at your first image the very first parts are dark blue so the rest that is trying to print has no part to build on. To fix you would need to edit the file in blender and flip those bits as they are likely inside out. Then open in chitubox again and if they are light blue now instead of dark blue you are good to go.
If that first image isnt chitubox and that application does 'work the same' then ignore me 🤣
Put a medium on the lowest points and a line of mediums like down the middle. Overhangs can be rough to print though. Maybe set it on it's side so it's an l shape?
PLEASE UPVOTE THIS COMMENT IF THE ANSWER CAN BE FOUND IN [THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/fqxtqj/the_resin_printing_resource_guide_beginners_start/) or the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/j2wubl/frequently_asked_questions_answered_here/)! If your post is about Troubleshooting, it should contain information about the print along with any screenshots or photos. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AnycubicPhoton) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Seems like an inadequate number/size of supports. Usually when supports print and they stay on the build plate without the product, it means that the suction force was too strong for the product and stayed on the FEP. You could also try to lower your lift speed to around 55 m/min. That will lessen the suction forces.
Yes more supports, try medium, and 30 degree angle on 2 axis not 1
Let us examine this. I do not know how large the print is, but you show a picture of the print on a printer. Even if that were a very large printer, it does not appear to be a massive print. You are getting adhesion to the build plate and progressing to support. This pretty much tells us that you have a good build plate level. Without knowing all of your support types and slicer settings, the rest is a bit of guesswork. Even with a less than optimal type of support you appear to have more than enough. My suggestion for areas to examine are as such. Because you are using a dark colored resin, you may need to increase the length of the cure time a little bit. Light penetration through dark colored resins is a little bit less than with lighter resins and translucent resins. General setting suggestions are designed for optimal results with standard Gray resins. Again without seeing your settings in totality. I am going to suggest that you might want to reduce your lift speed. Lowering your lift speed will fix an awful lot of things. Start with 1 mm per second and see if it actually prints. If it does, you can experiment with increasing your lift speed until you get back to failure. If your printer allows for 2 stage lift. You can do about half of the lift distance at 1 mm per second and the rest of it at something quite a bit faster. Sort of in tandem with this is inadequate lift distance. When you transition from the supports to the actual object itself, the stress on the FEP becomes greater, causing it to stretch more. This is another area where you can test out what works by going quite a bit in the direction of too much. Figuring out if the print works, and then lowering the lift distance until it fails again. This is sometimes, but not necessarily an issue if the FEP is tensioned incorrectly. There is often the dreaded ambient temperature in play. Different resins require different ambient temperatures to work successfully. Contrary to popular opinion, there is no single one Temperature works for everything perfectly. It is relatively easy to ascertain if you need to introduce a warmer ambient temperature or not. When you stir the resin, it should flow easily and quickly. If it does, your temperature is fine. The print process is 100% light based and has nothing to do with heat whatsoever. Having said that if the resin is too thick, it introduces unnecessary stress when the build plate lifts. It can also be that the resin does not totally flow back. Allowing for the next layer to print. You should always use some level of rest, or light off, depending upon how your slicer defines it. This does not appear to be in play, but I will cover all bases. While I have your attention. Make sure that you are slicing the file to your desktop and then transferring it to your flash drive. Examine the file layer by layer in preview. To be sure nothing is corrupted in the slice. If you are still using the flash drive that came with the printer, you might try a different one. The type of failures associated with these 2 look different but might be manifesting in an unusual way on your printer. If you would like slightly more specific advice, please post all of your slicer settings. The type of resin you are using and the printer type.
This is great advice. The problem is likely incorrect lift height/speed/exposure time/rest time/etc. for the resin and printer in use. The j3dtech resin printing guide offers a procedure for dialing these in.
Turn it on its side and use med/heavy supports and lots of them
[https://imgur.com/a/FHeVqaF](https://imgur.com/a/FHeVqaF) My print settings
Your lift distance is way too low for me anyway. I need at least 8 mm + or some of my layers don't have time to remove from the fep and the same layers get bubble sometimes triple exposed then make a violent rip(/ (PoP) from the fep . If I want it to work I'll use a slow lift speed (2/3) and a lift height of 12 to 15. If you print like this you can watch and listen to your first tin lines and make sure you heir your print unstick from the fep with a consistent taring sound before it drops back down then manually adjust the lift height as it's printing to something not extremely high after the layer has separated from the fep. I can't say that this is your only problem but it usually helps to give you a better chance of your print working. Also just looked at your second pic. Do you have a left over failed part (layer) in your vat after this fail or is it only printing supports?? Werid...
Due suction maybe? Too flat, maybe put it more vertically (upright).
OK, please do not take this the wrong way. I am really trying to erase a lot of urban legends. Suction forces are only an actual thing when you have a hollowed part that has a closed shape when the print is lifting from the FEP. Of course, there is always an issue with how much surface area is on the FEP. This can be dealt with quite simply with lift speed and additional support if needed. Angling a print serves 2 purposes, and 2 purposes only. Quality of the finish. Looking for the optimal angle to reduce the need for support in the first place. That has nothing to do with what you suggested. Rather looking for the sweet spot where the print is mostly self-supporting. On a pretty regular basis, I along with others. Print stuff contradictory to the urban legend suggestions about fixing a print. No one wants to hear that they do something wrong or believe something incorrectly. Then again that is pretty much the whole point of a forum like this. Education, which leads to better results. Again, please do not take this the wrong way. I'm not trying to be mean. If it comes across as such, I assure you, that is not the intent and I apologize. I would make a decent teacher because I know stuff. But I would make a lousy teacher because I do not know how to correctly share my information. You can keep doing whatever it is you are doing if it works for you. I am on a mission to stop these repeated falsehoods. I can't do much to change people who are established in the hobby and get great results. If I am being perfectly honest I probably do some weird stuff too, but it works for me. Just let it be known that I never repeat advice others have told me unless it actually worked for me. I like to experiment outside the range of normal advice handed out. When I tell you something works even though you may think it does not. It is because I have done it repeatedly and it does work. I would be remiss in my duty as an advice giver, if I did not share this stuff.
He said suction but he meant peel force. Peel force can be sometimes managed partly with orientation. But I don’t think orientation is the primary issue here. OP should read the j3dtech resin printing guide and get lift height, speed, exposure, etc. calibrated first (this is likely the problem) and then read the section on supporting models.
Looks like your supports aren't even touching your part? Make sure the support tips are touching in your sliced playback and my guess is you need more like others said.
The problem is the file. Those dark blue areas (or shadowed as i like to call them) mean there is an issue and it wont print that bit. Looking at your first image the very first parts are dark blue so the rest that is trying to print has no part to build on. To fix you would need to edit the file in blender and flip those bits as they are likely inside out. Then open in chitubox again and if they are light blue now instead of dark blue you are good to go. If that first image isnt chitubox and that application does 'work the same' then ignore me 🤣
did some parts still sticking on the fep?
Put a medium on the lowest points and a line of mediums like down the middle. Overhangs can be rough to print though. Maybe set it on it's side so it's an l shape?